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NEW ENGLAND: - 

A 

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 


A GUIDE TO 

% 


THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND, 
AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS : 
WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, 

FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


With Six Maps and Eleven Plans. 


NEW EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. 



BOSTON: 


JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 









Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, 
BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., 
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 


University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co., 
Cambridge. 



la 

PREFACE. 


The chief object of the Handbook for New England is to 
supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides 
cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest 
possible amount of pleasure and information while passing 
through the most ancient and interesting district of Anglo- 
Saxon America. New England has hitherto been but casually 
treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; special 
localities within its borders have been described with more or 
less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present volume is the 
first which has been devoted to its treatment according to the 
most approved principles of the European works of similar 
purpose and character. The Handbook is designed to enable 
travellers to visit all or any of the notable places in New 
England, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving 
lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various 
routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal 
cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the 
old coast and border towns, statements of the principal scenic 
attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of 
eminent men, and statistics of the chief industries of the included 
States. The half-forgotten but worthy and heroic records of the 
early colonial era and the French and Indian wars have received 
special attention in‘connection with the localities rendered classic 
in those remote days, while numerous Indian legends will be 
found in various places. The operations of the Wars of the 
Revolution and of 1812 (so far as they affected this section of 
the Republic) have been carefully studied and localized, and the 
rise of the great modern manufacturing cities has been traced 



IV 


PREFACE. 


and recorded. The famous summer-resorts — among the moun¬ 
tains and by the sea — with which New England abounds, and 
which are thronged by visitors from all parts of the country, 
have been described at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which 
have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor’s personal experience, after fifteen 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially 
amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and 
hence the Editor would be grateful for any bond fide correc¬ 
tions or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may 
favor him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebted¬ 
ness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of 
publication. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to 
similar figures attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The most trustworthy 
time-tables are found in 11 Snow’s Pathfinder Kailway Guide,” 
with map, published weekly at Boston (price 15 c.). The hotels 
indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor 
to be the most comfortable and elegant. 



CONTENTS 


/ 

PAGE 

I. Language.1 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses. 1 

III. Railways and Steamboats. The Check System .... 1 

IV. Excursions on Foot.2 

V. Hotels.3 

VI. Round-Trip Excursions. 4 

VII. Climate and Dress. 4 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. 4 


NEW ENGLAND. 

ROUTE 

1. Boston.5 

2. Environs of Boston.20 

1. Boston Harbor. The Route to Nahant . . . . . .20 

2. Nahant . ..21 

3. The Route to Hull, Hinghain, &c.22 

4. Huh.23 

5. Hingham. Charlestown.24 

6. Chelsea. Revere Beach.27 

7. Lexington and Concord.28 

8. Cambridge. Harvard University.29 

9. Mount Auburn.33 

10. Brookline.35 

11. Roxbury.30 

3. Boston to New York by Newport.36 

1. Newport.40 

2. The Approach to New York.47 

4. Boston to S. Duxbury.48 

5. Boston to Plymouth.51 

6. Boston to Cape Cod.54 

1. Fairhaven Branch.54 

2. Marshpee.56 

7. Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket . . . .58 

1. Gayhead.60 

8. Boston to New York by Providence..62 

1. Providence.63 

2. Providence to Newport. Narragansett Bay.65 

3. Providence to Warren and Bristol ....... 66 

































VI 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE PAGE 

4. Narragansett Pier.68 

5. Watch Hill Point.. 70 

6. Stonington to New York. Block Island.71 

7. New Haven.77 

9. Boston to New Bedford.90 

1. New Bedford to Martha’s Vineyard. The Elizabeth Islands . 92 

10. Providence to Worcester.. 93 

11. Providence to Hartford and Waterbury.94 

12. New London to Vermont.96 

1. S. Vernon to Keene.102 

13. Norwich to Nashua.104 

14. Saybrook to Hartford.106 

15. New Haven to Northampton.’. . 108 

16. Bridgeport to Winsted .Ill 

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills.114 

18. S. Norwalk to Danbury.115 

19. Boston to New York (by Norwich).117 

1. Boston to Woonsocket.120 

20. Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton.120 

21. Boston to New York (by Springfield).124 

1. S. Framingham to Lowell and to Mansfield .... 125 

2. S. Framingham to Fitchburg.126 

3. Worcester.127 

4. Springfield.131 

5. Hartford.134 

22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West.141 

23. The Berkshire Hills.142 

1. Pittsfield and its Environs. 144 

2. Stockbridge. 149 

3. N. Adams. 154 

24. New York to Quebec. The Connecticut Valley towns . . 157 

1. Mount Holyoke.. 

2. Lake Memphremagog. 171 

25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel.175 

26. Boston to Burlington (and Montreal). 179 

1. Fitchburg to Peterboro’.. 

27. Rutland to Bennington.. 

28. Rutland to Albany.. 

1. Rutland and Washington Line. 187 

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal.1SS 

1. Lowell. jgg 

2. Nashua to Wilton.. 

3. Concord to Claremont.. 

4. St. Albans to Ricliford.206 

5. St. Albans to Rouse’s Point ••••... 207 

30. Boston to the Franconia Mountains.209 

31. Boston to the White Mountains.213 

1. Rochester to Portland. 919 































CONTENTS. v ii 

Route page 

32. Lake Winnepes aukee and the Sandwich Mountains . . . 215 

1. Centre Harbor to Conway.219 

2 . Chocorua and Ossipee.220 

83. The White Mountains and North Conway.221 

1. North Conway.223 

2. North Conway to the Glen House and Gorham .... 225 

3. Gorham.227 

4. Gorham to the Notch.229 

5. North Conway to the Notch. 230 • 

6 . The Crawford House to the Profile House.233 

7. Mount Washington.234 

34. The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasset Valley . . 238 

1. The Profile House to Plymouth.241 

2. Waterville and Campton.242 

35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbagog . . 243 

1. Colebroolt to Umbagog and Rangeley.244 

2. Connecticut Lake.245 

36. Boston to Cape Ann.245 

37. Boston to Portland and St. John.248 

1. Peabody, Lowell, and Lawrence Branches.255 

2. Marblehead Branch.255 

3. Essex Branch.257 

4. Amesbury Branch.261 

5. The Isles of Shoals.265 

6 . Portsmouth to Concord.267 

7. Portland and its Environs.270 

8 . Casco Bay.274 

38. Boston to Portland . 275 

1. Wakefield to Newburyport.276 

2. Lawrence to Lowell or Manchester.279 

3. Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee.282 

39. Portland to the White Mountains.284 

1 . Lake Sebago.284 

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal.287 

1 . Mechanic Falls to Canton.. . 287 

2. Bethel to Lake Umbagog.289 

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest . 291 

1. Farmington to the Rangeley Lakes.292 

42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec.293 

43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake.295 

44. Portland to Rockland.• , 297 

1 . Wiscasset to Boothbay.299 

2. Damariscotta to Bristol and Pemaquid.299 

45. Portland to Mount Desert.302 

1. Castine.’ . . 302 

2. Bar Harbor.304 

3. Southwest Harbor.306 

4. Mount Desert to Machiasport.307 




























Yin 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE PAGE 

46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor . . . . . 307 

47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor.309 

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot River.316 

49. Bangor to St. John.. . .318 

1. Fredericton, N. B..319 

2. St. John River.320 

50. The New Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska . . 321 

THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS OF NEW ENGLAND. 

51. New York City.325 

1. Central Park.336 

2. Brooklyn.339 

52. New York to Albany. The Hudson River.340 

1. The Highlands.343 

2. The Catskill Mountains.347 

3. Albany.348 

53. Albany to Montreal.350 

1. Saratoga.350 

2. Fort Edward to Whitehall or Caldwell.355 

3. Lake George.357 

4. Lake Champlain.361 

54. Montreal and its Environs.368 

1. Lachine Rapids.372 

2. Victoria Bridge.373 

55. Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River . . . 373 

56. Quebec. 375 

1. Ste. Anne and Chateau Richer.384 

2. The Saguenay River.385 

MAPS. 

1. General Map of New England : in pocket. 

2. Map of the Environs of Boston : in pocket. 

3. Map of Nahant. 

4. Map of Lake Winnepesaukee. 

5. Map of the White and Franconia Mountains. 

6 . Map of the Hudson River. 

PLANS OF CITIES, &c. 

Boston, Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, 
Providence, Quebec, Central Park, Mount Auburn Cemetery. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

M. = mile ; hr. = hour ; min. = minute ; ft. = foot or feet; r. = right; 1. = left ; 
N. = north ; S. = south ; E. = east; W. = west. 


ASTERISKS 

denote objects deserving of special attention. 




















NEW ENGLAND 


“ Nobis etemum reliquerunt monumentum, 

Novanglorum moenia.” 

“Nova Anglia”: a Latin poem by Morrell, 1625. 

New England is the northeastern portion of the United States, and 
, comprises the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, 
Connecticut, and Rhode Island. It is hounded on the S. by the Atlantic 
i Ocean and Long Island Sound, on the W. by the State of New York, on the 
N. by the Province of Quebec, and on the E. by the province of New Bruns¬ 
wick and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between the latitudes 41° and 48° 
| N. and the longitudes 67° and 74° W. from Greenwich, and has an area 
j of 65,000 square M., with a population of 3,487,924 (census of 1870). 
The principal religious sect is the Congregational, which has 190,473 
members; the Episcopal Church has 38,098; and the Methodists have 
70,000. The Catholics and the Baptists (114,000) are also strong in 
^ numbers, while Unitarianism has here its chief power. A high standard 
of education prevails among the people, and is supported by an extensive 
school-system and several renowned colleges. The New-Englanders have 
! always been distinguished for a marked individuality of thought, by 
1 reason of which the most advanced and radical schools of philosophy, 
i politics, and religion have arisen or have been developed here. The 
f nature of the climate and of the soil has rendered agriculture less 
profitable than at the West, and the strength of the section has been 
I found in the establishment and maintenance of vast manufacturing indus- 
I tries. The coast extends in a direct line for over 700 M., with many 
spacious harbors; and the maritime cities are celebrated for their skilful 
seamen and for their large fleets of merchant-ships. This district was 
granted by James I. to the Plymouth Company (in 1606) under the name 
j of North Virginia; but Capt. John Smith, having surveyed and mapped 
the coast in 1614, gave it the name of New England. 

Maine 

is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by N. H., on the N. by 
Canada, and on the E. by New Brunswick. It is the most northeastern of 
the United States, and the largest of the States of New England. It has 
an area of 31,766 square M., with a population of 626,915, and a valuation 
of $ 223,254,860. It is divided into 16 counties, and has 13 small cities. 




X 


MAINE. 


the chief of which is Portland, while the capital is' Augusta, at the head 
of ship-navigation on the Kennebec River. The coast of “ hundred-har¬ 
bored Maine” is remarkably picturesque, with deep fiords running up 
between bold peninsulas, and with archipelagos of beautiful islands resting 
in quiet and extensive bays. The direct line of the coast from Kittery 
Point to Quoddy Head is 278 M., but the deep curves of the bays and 
estuaries give an actual shore-line of nearly 2,500 M. Mt. Desert (60,000 
acres) is the largest of the many islands which front the ocean, and Mon- 
hegan is the most distant from the mainland. The great rivers Penob¬ 
scot, Kennebec, and St. Croix empty into the sea on this coast, and 
furnish wide and convenient harbors. Nearly f of the area of Maine is 
still covered with primeval forests, and the lumber-trade is the chief 
industry of the State. The trees are felled and hauled to the water¬ 
courses during the winter, and in the spring they are united in vast rafts 
and floated down to the river cities. In the S. and E. of the great forest 
is a broken range of mountains, the loftiest of which is Mt. Katahdin 
(5,385 ft. high), yy of Maine is covered with water, the principal lakes 
being Moosehead, Chesuncook, and the Rangeley, Madawaska, and 
Schoodic groups. 

The Maine coast was first visited by Gosnold in 1602, and in 1607 the 
short-lived Sagadahoc colony settled at the mouth of the Kennebec 
River. The French colonies at the St. Croix River and Mt. Desert were 
but ephemeral, and several other attempts proved equally unsuccessful, 
partly owing to the hostility between the claimants of the territory (the 
French and English), and the distrust of the Indians for both of them. 
The island of Monhegan was settled in 1622, and Saco was founded in 
1623. When the Plymouth Company broke up, in 1635, Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges received by royal charter the province of Maine (then first so 
called). In 1642 his son founded the city of Gorgeana (York), but in 
1651 Mass, absorbed Maine, being sustained by the exigencies of the 
times and by the Puritan Parliament of England. After some resistance 
on the part of the Maine proprietors, Mass. bought out their interest, and 
thenceforward ruled the northern province for nearly 170 years with a 
firm and beneficial sway. From 1675 until 1760 a disastrous succession 
of Indian wars ensued, in which every twentieth settler was killed or 
captured and many towns were destroyed. The bombardment of Port¬ 
land (1775) and the naval battle at Castine (1779) were the chief events 
during the Revolution, but the coast was badly harried during the War 
of 1812. In 1820 Maine was admitted into the Union as the twenty- 
third State. 

New Hampshire 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by Vt., on the N. by the 
province of Quebec, and on the E. by Maine and the Atlantic. It has an 


NEW HAMPSHIRE — VERMONT. 


Xl 


area of 9,280 square M., with a population of 318,300, and a valuation of 
$ 162,987,177. It is divided into 10 counties, with 234 towns and 5 cities, 
and the capital is Concord, on the Merrimac River. There is an ocean- 
front of-18 M., which is bordered by level plains stretching inland, while 
just off the coast are the remarkable Isles of Shoals, formerly famed for 
their fisheries and now a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the sea-shore 
plains the country assumes a more rugged and broken appearance, with 
numerous isolated summits and hill-ranges which culminate in the White 
Mts., covering over 40 square M. of a picturesque district which is called 
“the Switzerland of America.” The lakes of N. H. cover 110,000 acres, 
and the most beautiful of their number is Winnepesaukee, which has 69 
square M. of extent, and contains 300 islands. The soil of the State is 
not fertile, but it has much mineral wealth ; and the climate, though 
severe, is very healthful. There are extensive primeval forests in the N. 
(Coos County), in whose recesses wolves and bears still are found ; and the 
remote lakes and streams afford fine fishing. The Connecticut, Saco, and 
Merrimac Rivers have their sources in N. H., and on the water-power 
afforded by the latter large manufacturing cities are located. There are 
42 national banks, with a capital of $ 5,135,000 ; and 54 savings-banks, 
with deposits amounting to $ 25,303,235. The manufactures of cotton and 
woollen goods, iron and leather, are the chief mechanical industries, and 
centre at the cities of Manchester and Nashua. The press of the State 
consists of 8 daily papers, 36 weeklies, and 6 monthlies. 

The N. H. coast was first visited by the Europeans in 1614, and settle¬ 
ments were founded at Dover and Portsmouth about 1623. The district 
was for many years under the government of Mass., and was afterwards 
ceded to N. Y., while the incessant inroads of the Indians devastated the 
frontiers for nearly 80 years. The chief incidents of these wars were the 
destruction of Dover (1689), and the battle of Pequawket. In 1741 N. H. 
became a royal province, and in 1776 it led the secession from the British 
Empire, giving freely of its men and money to the cause of independence. 

Vermont 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by N. Y. and Lake Champlain, 
on the N. by Canada, and on the E. by N. H. It has an area of 9,056 M., 
with a population of 330,551, and a valuation of $ 142,612,356. It is 
divided into 14 counties, and has but 2 small cities, the great majority of 
the people being engaged in farming. The centre of the State is trav¬ 
ersed from N. to S. by the Green Mts., whose smooth and rounded sum¬ 
mits form a marked contrast with the sharp peaks of the White Mts. 
The chief of the Green Mts. are Mt. Mansfield (4,359 ft.), Camel’s Hump 
(4,188 ft.), Killington and Pico Peaks, and Mt. Ascutney. The E. slope 
is watered by several streams which flow into the Connecticut River, 





Xll 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


while the W. slope sinks into the broad and fertile plains which border 
Lake Champlain and are traversed by Otter Creek and the Winooski, 
Lamoille, and Missisquoi Rivers. The Lakes Memphremagog, Willoughby, 
Dunmore, Bomaseen, and St. Catharine are pleasant summer-resorts, and 
the great Lake Champlain affords an avenue for an extensive international 
commerce, whose chief centre is the. port of Burlington. The evergreen 
forests on the mountains alternate with broad pasture-plains, and the 
deciduous groves on the lowlands are interspersed with tillage-fields of rich 
loamy soil, so that Yt. has become the most agricultural of the Northern 
States, and exceeds all others (proportionally to her population) in the 
production of wool, live stock, maple sugar, butter and cheese, hay, hops, 
and potatoes. In 1871 there were made here 8,000 tons of butter, 2,400 
tons of cheese, and 4,500 tons of maple-sugar. Extensive quarries of fine 
statuary and variegated marble and serpentine have been opened in the S. 
counties, and vast quantities of slate have been exported from the same 
region. . 

The first European who saw Vt. was Jacques Cartier, who, in 1535, 
looked upon its high ridges from Mount Royal (Montreal). Its coast was 
explored by Champlain and others in 1609, and prosperous French settle¬ 
ments were made (in Addison) later in the 17th century. In 1724 Mass, 
built Fort Dummer (near the present town of Brattleboro); but the num¬ 
bers and ferocity of the Indians prevented colonization until after the 
conquest of Canada (1760). The territory was then partly occupied under 
grants from N. H., until it was ceded to N. Y.; and thereafter ensued a 
controversy in which the settlers successfully resisted the authorities of 
N. Y. until the outbreak of the Revolution, when they proclaimed Ver¬ 
mont (Vefts Monts, or Green Mts.) an independent State. Congress twice 
refused to acknowledge the new State, although its soldiers (“ the Green 
Mountain Boys ”) captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and annihilated 
the flower of Burgoyne’s German auxiliaries at the battle of Bennington. 
In 1791, after paying New York $30,000 in liquidation of all claims, Yt. 
was admitted into the Union (the 14th State), and since that time has 
prospered and steadily increased in wealth and population. 

Massachusetts 

is bounded on the S. by Conn, and R. I., on the W. by N. Y., on the N. 
by Vt. and N. H., and on the E. by the Atlantic. It has an area of 7,800 
square M., with 1,457,351 inhabitants, and a valuation of $2,132,148,741. 
The soil is not fertile, but considerable crops are gained by careful 
cultivation ; and the best land is found in the valleys of the Connecticut 
and Housatonic Rivers. There is but little level land in the State, and in 
the W. counties the Taconic and Hoosac Ranges of mountains afford great 
diversity of scenery. The Connecticut River flows through a garden-like 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


xiii 

valley, with several prosperous towns ; and the Merrimac (in the N. E.) 
affords a vast water-power to Lowell and Lawrence, and passes into the 
sea at Newburyport. The climate is severe in the hill-countries, and is 
very variable on the coast, — the mean temperature being between 44 ° 
and 51 As far back as 1855 the annual farm products amounted to over 
$ 21,000,000, and at that time the State had 2,250,000 apple-trees. Profit¬ 
able beds of iron ore and glass sand have been developed, and the exporta¬ 
tion of marble (from Berkshire County) and granite (from Quincy and Cape 
Ann) has become a lucrative business. The State has been celebrated for 
the number and excellence of its ships, and for the skill and enterprise of 
its seamen. Granite, ice, and fish are among the chief articles of export; 
the latter being brought in by the large fishing-fleets of Cape Cod and 
Gloucester. The manufacturing interests of the State are of immense 
extent and wide variety, and their products for the year 1870 were valued 
at $ 550,000,000. Boots and shoes, cotton goods, woollens, iron, and paper, 
are the chief manufactures (named in the order of their importance). 
There are 160 savings-banks, with deposits amounting to $163,535,943. 
In 1871 the State debt was $ 29,630,364, of which $ 12,000,000 was for 
railroad loans, and $16,500,000 represented the unpaid balance of the war 
loan. * 

The prevailing religious sect is the Congregational, the Baptist, Meth¬ 
odist, and Unitarian churches being also strong, while the Roman Catholics 
are rapidly attaining great power and influence. The educational insti¬ 
tutions of the State are admirably arranged and have a high reputation, 
their efficiency being assured by the maintenance of four normal schools, 
five colleges, and Harvard University. The militia is kept in a state of 
high efficiency and discipline, and is mostly composed of veterans of 
the War of 1861-5. 

The coast of Mass, was first visited by the Norwegian mariners Leif and 
Thorwald, about the year 1000. After several attempts at colonization, 
which were frustrated by the powerful native tribes, the Norsemen aban¬ 
doned the country (which, from its fruitfulness, they had named Yinland). 
In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot cruised along the coast, and were fol¬ 
lowed by Cortereal, Yerrazzani, and Gomez. In 1602 Gosnold explored 
the S. E. islands, and planted an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, near 
New Bedford. Pring, Champlain, and Weymouth soon after passed along 
the coast, while Capt. John Smith, following them in 1614, made a map 
of the coast and islands. Dec. 21, 1620, the ship “ Mayflower ” arrived 
at Plymouth with 102 Pilgrims, who had been driven from England by 
religious persecution, and who founded here the first permanent colony in 
Mass. Salem was settled in 1628, and Boston in 1630, by Puritan exiles, 
and the Atlantic coast and the Connecticut valley were soon dotted with 
villages of bold and hardy immigrants. 









XIV 


CONNECTICUT. 


The Pequot War (1637) and King Philip’s War (1675-6) caused a fear¬ 
ful loss of life and property, and several of the valley towns were utterly 
destroyed before the colonial forces could crush the insurgent tribes. In 
1689 the province revolted against the royal authorities, and the country- 



the governor (Sir Edmund Andros). In 1692 Plymouth was united to 
Massachusetts, and thereafter, until the conquest of Canada in 1760, the 
province was foremost in the wars with the French colonies in the N. 
Many of her towns were destroyed by Indian raids, and the W. frontier 
was nearly depopulated; but the general prosperity was unchecked, and 
when the British Parliament commenced its unjust oppressions, the prov¬ 
ince had 250,000 inhabitants, many of whom were trained veterans of the 
Canadian Wars. In face of the royal army which had been moved into 
Boston, the men of Massachusetts opened correspondences which brought 
about a colonial union for mutual defence, and enrolled themselves as 
minute-men, ready to march against the British troops at a minute’s 
notice. The battles of Concord and Lexington were followed by a general 
appeal to arms; and the siege of Boston, the Battle of Bunker Hill, and 
the American occupation of the city came in rapid succession. After 
these events the scene of w3r was transferred to New York and the South, 
where the Massachusetts regiments won high honor, especially in the 
victorious campaign against Burgoyne’s invading army. In 1780 the State 
Constitution was framed, and in 1786 a serious revolt occurred in the W. 
counties, caused by the pressure of enormous taxes. This rising (which 
was headed by Daniel Shays) was put down after a few skirmishes. In 
the War of 1812 the State theoretically confined her exertions to the de¬ 
fence of her own coast, though thousands of her seamen entered the 
national navy. Extensive manufacturing interests now rose rapidly into 
view, and a network of railroads was stretched across the State. During 
the War for the Union (1861 - 5) Massachusetts put forth her utmost 
strength, and gave 158,380 men to the armies of the Republic, besides 
incurring a war-debt of over $ 50,000,000. 

Connecticut 

is bounded on the S. by Long Island Sound, on the W. by New York, on 
the N. by Mass., and on the E. by R. I. It has an area of 4,730 square 
M., with 537,454 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 532,951,061. There are 
8 counties, 160 towns, and 7 cities. The soil is usually rugged and com¬ 
paratively unproductive, although the river-valleys afford some rich lands, 
and considerable crops are raised by laborious cultivation. The tobacco^ 
crop of 1870 amounted to 8,328,798 pounds, and in the same year were 
made 6,716,007 pounds of butter and 563,328 tons of hay. “The manu¬ 
factures of the State are more general, multifarious, and productive than 





CONNECTICUT. 


XV 


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those of any other people of similar means,” — clocks and carriages, fire¬ 
arms, tin and brittania ware, sewing-machines, iron and rubber goods 
being the chief articles of production. There are 66 savings-banks, with 
deposits amounting to $ 55,297,705, and many wealthy and powerful 
insurance companies. New Haven has a lucrative West India trade, 
while New London has a considerable number of vessels engaged in sealing 
and whaling. The Conn. River is famous for its valuable fisheries, which 
have been revived by stocking the stream (1867 - 70) with 154,000,000 
young shad. 

The chief religious sect is the Congregational, and the Episcopal Church 
has more strength here than in any other State (proportionally to the 
population). There are three colleges, Yale (Cong.), Trinity (Epis.), and 
Wesleyan (Meth.), with 4 schools of theology. The educational interests 
of the State are well and efficiently carried on, under the support of the 
great funds derived from the sale of the Western Reserve lands. The 
charitable and correctional institutions of the State are remarkable for 
their influence and efficiency. The ingenuity, enterprise, and individuality 
of the men of Conn, have given them an advanced place in the mercantile 
and political activities of the Republic; and “probably no country of 
similar extent has sent abroad so vast a horde of emigrants in proportion 
to its.population.” 

The coast and rivers of Conn, were first explored by Adrian Block 
and other Dutch mariners (1614-33); the district was in the English 
Plymouth Patent of 1620, and was chartered in 1631. About that time 
the river Indians were subjugated by the Pequots, and Seguin, their chief, 
sent to New York, Plymouth, and Boston for help. In 1633 a small 
Diitch colony landed at Hartford; and in the same year a Plymouth vessel 
passed up to Windsor, where a settlement was planted. These were 
merely trading-posts, but Wethersfield was occupied in 1634, and in 1636 
three nomadic churches were led by their pastors through the wilderness 
from Boston to the Conn. River, where they settled at Hartford, Windsor, 
and Wethersfield. Say brook was founded and fortified in 1635, and in 
1637 the first legislature declared war against the Pequot Indians, who 
were defeated and speedily crushed by the colonial train-bands, aided by 
the friendly tribes. In April, 1638, New Haven was settled, and soon 
after the other coast-towns were founded. In 1639 a remarkable consti¬ 
tution (which acknowledged no higher human power than the people of 
Conn.) was adopted, and in 1662 a royal charter was obtained. After the 
union of the independent colonies of Conn. (Hartford) and New Haven, in 
1665, the two towns were made semi-capitals of the province (and State), 
and so remained until 1873, when Hartford was made the sole capital. 
The State stood honorably among the foremost during the Revolution, 
although the towns along the coast were pillaged and destroyed by raids 
from the Hessian and Tory garrison at New York. 




XVI 


RHODE ISLAND. 


Rhode Island 

is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by Conn., and on the N. 
and E. by Mass. It is the smallest State in the Union, and has an area 
of 1,046 square M., with 217,353 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 296,965,- 
646. There are 5 counties, with 32 towns, and 2 cities. The soil is un¬ 
productive, and but little fanning is done save on the fertile plains of the 
Island of Aquidneck. The State is nearly cut in two by Narragansett 
Bay, which runs inland for 30 M. (with a width of 3 -12 M.), and contains 
several islands, the chief of which is Aquidneck (or Rhode Island) on 
whose S. end is the famous summer-resort, Newport. 11 M. S. E. of 
Point Judith is Block Island, which pertains to this State. The climate 
is mild and equable, from its vicinity to the sea and exposure to the S.; 
and the greater part of the State is a region of low hills or sea-shore plains. 
The principal mechanical industries are at Providence, Pawtucket, Woon¬ 
socket, and Westerly ; and as far back as 1860 the State reported 1,200 
manufacturing establishments, with an aggregate capital of $ 24,380,000, 
using annually $24,410,000 worth of raw material, and producing over 
$ 50,000,000 worth of goods. The 33 savings-banks of the State hold in 
deposit $36,289,703. The charitable and correctional institutions are 
mostly about Providence, where is also the seat of Brown University, a 
flourishing school under the care of the Baptist Church, which is the 
prevailing sect in the State. 

Rhode Island was probably colonized by the Norsemen in the 10th and 
11th centuries, but was afterwards abandoned for centuries, until the 
coming of Yerrazzani in 1524. He remained at Aquidneck (which was then 
thickly populated by Indians) for two weeks. In 1636 Roger Williams, 
having been banished from Mass., came down the Seekonk River with 5 
companions, and founded a settlement which he named Providence, in 
acknowledgment of “God’s merciful providence to him in his distress.” 
In 1638 Wm. Coddington and another party of exiles founded Newport; 
in 1642 a third banished company settled at Warwick; and in 1643 and 
1663 these colonies united under a royal charter. The powerful Narra¬ 
gansett Indians dwelt in Rhode Island, and when King Philip’s War 
broke out they ravaged all the outlying settlements and killed many of 
the colonists. The New England colonies, ignoring the existence of heret¬ 
ical Rhode Island, and rejecting its advice, marched an army across to 
the Narragansett country, and, after a terrific assault, stormed the Indian 
stronghold and crushed the tribe. The little province gave freely of her 
men and money in the French wars, and sent some of the best troops to 
the American siege of Boston. In Dec., 1776, Newport was taken by the 
British, who held it for 3 years, but were prevented by the New England 
militia from passing farther into the country. In 1861 the men of Rhode 
Island were among the first to reach the imperilled national capital. 


INTRODUCTION, 


I. Language. 

The people of New England claim that they speak the English lan¬ 
guage more correctly than it is spoken elsewhere in the world. Be this 
as it may, it is certain that this one language is universally used through¬ 
out the six States, and the traveller is delivered from the trouble caused 
in Great Britain by its four languages and numerous dialects, or in France 
by its three languages and provincial patois. The European tongues are 
taught in the high-schools all over the country, but the instruction is 
purely theoretical, and the number who can talk French, German, or Ital¬ 
ian is very small. Tourists, who wish to travel among the remoter dis¬ 
tricts of New England, should be well acquainted with the language, 

which is “the English of Elizabeth,” with a few local idioms. 

# 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

Since the war for the Union (1861 - 65) gold and silver coin has disap¬ 
peared from circulation, and been replaced by U. S. Treasury notes and 
National Bank bills for values upwards of one dollar, and by fractional 
currency issued by the Treasury, of the values of 10, 15, 25, and 50 cts. 
Nickel and mixed coins of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cts. value, abound. This paper 
currency is at a discount for gold of from 10 to 15 per ct. The cur¬ 
rency of Canada is either coin or paper at a coin value. 

It is more expensive to travel in New England than in any part of 
Western Europe. The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $ 4 to 
$ 4.50, with considerable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one 
place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country and stop at the 
less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always safe) 
may easily limit their expenses to $ 25 or $ 30 per week. Those who fre¬ 
quent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, 
will find $ 45 to $ 50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches 
board can be secured at $ 10 or $ 15 per week; while in the quieter, and 
less fashionable villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be 
found in broad old farm-houses, for $6 to $10 per week. 

III. Railways and Steamboats. 

Railway travelling in America is much more comfortable, yet more ex¬ 
pensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class of 




2 


INTRODUCTION. 


tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train is 
a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with tables 
for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as 
gamblers sometimes practice their arts here, in spite of the watchfulness 
of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand 
routes is attached one or more Pullman cars, which are richly carpeted 
and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, tables, 
mirrors, and fronted with broad plate glass windows. These cars being 
well balanced and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with 
great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping-rooms, 
with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace cars are collected 
by men attached to them; the price of a night’s lodging (in which time 
one can go from Boston to New York) is $ 2. The fares by steamboat are 
somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a night passage) include a 
sleeping-berth in the lower saloon, but generally do not include meals. 
A state-room in the upper cabin costs extra, but insures better air and 
greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the summer season) should 
be secured in advance at the company’s office in New York, Boston, or 
Portland. Great lines of stages still run among tf^p mountains and in the 
remote rural districts. Persons travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, 
should try to get a seat on the outside. 

The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des¬ 
tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, &c.) to the baggage-master, 
who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather 
thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, simi¬ 
lar in form and number to that appended to such piece. The railroad 
now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for 
the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the du¬ 
plicate check which is in the traveller’s possession. Trunks may be thus 
despatched from Boston to Montreal, Boston to Chicago, &c., without 
trouble, and if their owner is delayed on the route, they are stored safely 
at their destined station until he calls. On presentation of the check at 
the baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is 
given up to the owner, or his hotel porter. The large hotels have coaches 
at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains, and their porters 
will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks and carry them to the hotel. 

IV. Excursions on Foot. 

It is remarkable that pedestrianism has never been popular in this 
country. The ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its 
highly beneficial physical effects, the leisure thus afforded in which to 
study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible dis¬ 
tricts, all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of 





INTRODUCTION. 


3 


summer recreation. To walk two hundred miles in a fortnight is an easy 
thing, and it is infinitely more , refreshing for a man of sedentary habits 
than the same length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, 
or idling in a farm-house among the hills. “ For a tour of two or three 
weeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, 
and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder, 

* will generally be found a sufficient equipment, to which a light overcoat, 
and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are 
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be 
avoided; a light pouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position 
may be shifted at pleasure.” — Baedeker. One or two books might be 
added to this list, and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, 
at a trifling cost, to the town which is the pedestrian’s objective point. 

It would be well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten 
miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six 
hours’ walking. During the heats of summer the travelling should be 
. done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part 
of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is 
between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the 
air bracing, — the season of the reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, 
and the splendor of the reddening forests. 

Among the most interesting districts in New England for the pedes¬ 
trian, the following may be mentioned: The picturesque valleys, lakes, 
and mountains of Berkshire County, Mass.; the valley of the Connecticut 
from Springfield to Greenfield ; the ocean-surrounded arm of sand, Cape 
Cod, with its quaint and salty old villages (Thoreau’s “ Cape Cod ” is the 
best guide there) ; the lake region of New Hampshire ; the White and 
Franconia Mountains (frequently explored by walking parties from the 
colleges during the summer vacation); and in Maine, the romantic Island 
of Mount Desert. The east bank of the Hudson River, from New York 
to Albany, affords a walk of rare interest, and the west shore of Lake 
George presents a short walk through peerless scenery. But the most in¬ 
teresting ramble is from Quebec through the Cote de Montmorenci to 
Cape Tormente, there crossing the St. Lawrence, and passing down the 
south shore through the quaint old Norman Catholic villages of Mont- 
magny, L’lslet, and Kamouraska. This route can be traversed only by 
an experienced traveller who is well posted in French. There are but 
very few hotels in this ancient and primitive district. 

V. Hotels. 

The hotels of the United States will certainly bear comparison with 
those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in many 
of them (as Parker’s, at Boston; the St. Julian, at Portland), while in 
many others it is used in combination with the American plan, — $ 4 to 




4 


INTRODUCTION. 


$4.50 per day at the more fashionable houses, $ 2.50-to $ 4 per day at the 
comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $1.50 to $2.50 per day in 
the smaller houses in the rural districts, are the charges which cover all 
ordinary requirements. No costly array of sundries and extras is at¬ 
tached to the bill, and the practice of feeing the servants has never 
obtained to any extent, nor has it been found necessary. 

VI. Round-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early fall the railroads prepare series of ex¬ 
cursion tickets at greatly reduced rates. Information and lists of these 
routes maybe obtained from the central offices in Boston. The office 
of the Hoosac Tunnel Route (to Saratoga, &c.) is at 69 Washington St., 
Boston ; the Connecticut and Passumpsic River Railroad is at 87 Wash¬ 
ington St.; the Boston, Concord, and Montreal is at 5 State St.; the 
Grand Trunk Railroad is at 134 Washington St.; where is also the pas¬ 
senger office of the Eastern Railroad (to Portland, the Eastern Provinces, 
and the White Mountains), conducted by Geo. F. Field, Esq. The Ver¬ 
mont Central Railroad (office 65 Washington St.) publishes a twenty-four 
page book of round excursions (with their prices) to every part of New 
Hampshire, Vermont, the Province of Quebec, Eastern New York, and 
also to Niagara Falls, Chicago, St. Paul, and Duluth. 

VII. Climate and Dress. 

The climate of New England is subject to the most sudden and severe 
changes, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are 
usually much hotter and the winters much colder than in England, and 
during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. The summer 
sun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays should 
be avoided. At the same time warm clothing should be kept at hand, 
and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in 
order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent. 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. 

Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace. 

The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- 
ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. 

Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, 
and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessary. 

There are no professional guides in New England, but the people are 
prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from 
abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no class 
of self-recognized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will 
often provoke a reply couched in all “the native rudeness of the Saxon 
tongue.” 


NEW ENGLAND HANDBOOK 


1. Boston. 

Hotels. Those in the heart of the city are most conveniently situated. Tre- 
mont House (PI. 18), on Tremont St., corner of Beacon, and the * Revere House 
(PI. 9), on Bowdoin Sq., are large, commodious hotels, near the State House, and 
carried on by the same company. The * American House (PI. 10), on Hanover St., 
is a large and elegant brownstone structure, with 300 rooms. Board at $ 4 to 
$4.50 per day. *The Parker House (PI. 19), a noble mauble building on School 
St., opposite King’s Chapel and the City Hall, is kept on the European plan, and 
is a famous resort of the young men of New England. Young’s Hotel (PI. 20), 
Court Ave., is on the European plan, and is much resorted to by city merchants. 

The following hotels are less expensive : Adams House (PI. 28), 371 Washington 
St., $3; Marlboro’ Hotel (PI. .26), 227 and 229 Washington Street; Sherman 
House; Temple House, Bowdoin Sq. ; Milliken’s (PL 22), Washington St. 
Near the great Noi’thern railroad stations are the Arlington House (European 
plan) and National House. Opposite the Albany Railroad Station is the exten¬ 
sive United States Hotel (PI. 33). In Brattle St. are the City Hotel and the Quincy 
House. 

At the South End. —* St. James Hotel, on Franklin Sq., a vast and elegant 
structure, 400 guests, $ 4 a day, $ 15 to $ 25 a week. * Commonwealth Hotel, a 
new marble building on Washington St., stretching from Worcester to Spring- 
field St., 200 to 250 guests, $4 a day. Also on Washington St., the Erskine, 
Lancaster, Everett, Warwick, and St. Denis Houses; and on Tremont St., the 
Clarendon and the St. Cloud, — smaller and less expensive houses. 

The French system of Hotels Garnis in its various forms is very popular in 
Boston. The principal hotels of this class (with family suites) are the Evaxis 
House, 175 Tremont, and the Hotel Pelham, corner Tremont and Boylston Streets, 
both fronting on the Common. Opposite this, the superb Hotel Boylston, one of 
the noblest buildings in the city. The Hotels Berkeley and Kempton, and the 
Hotel Hamilton (on Commonwealth Ave.), at the West End, and the Hotels Flor¬ 
ence, Bradford, &c., at the South End, are of this class. The Norfolk House (in 
Roxbury) and the Maverick House (in East Boston) are large, quiet, and inexpen¬ 
sive suburban hotels. 

Restaurants. — * Parker House (with ladies’ dining-room attached), famous 
for its excellent dinners. (Charles Dickens called Parker’s the best hotel in 
America.) * Young’s, near Old State House, with an elegant dining-hall, much 
patronized for society and festal dinners. * Charles Copeland’s, 4 Tremont Row, — 
a dainty saloon, frescoed and fountained, much visited by ladies. The Copeland 
restaurants at 208 Washington St., and 128 Tremont St., opposite Park St., 
are frequented by ladies. Higgins’s, 126 Court St., is famous for fine oysters. 
Wilson’s Lane, Spring Lane, Brattle St., and the vicinity, abound in good eating- 
houses. Lager Beer may be had at many German saloons throughout the 
city. Ice-creams and confections at Copeland’s, Fera’s (343 Washington 
St.), Southmayd’s, Webers, &c. 

Billiard-Rooms. — The finest hall of the kind in New England is on Wash¬ 
ington St., near the Boylston Market. The Revere billiard-rooms, near Bow¬ 
doin Sq., are large and brilliant. Artemus Ward’s quaint saying is well known, 
— that Harvard College is located in the billiard-room of the Parker House. Other 
comfortable, though smaller rooms are scattered through the city. 

Batlis. — Turkish, sulpliur-fume, and electro-chemical, rear of the Marlboro’ 



6 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


Hotel, 231 Washington St. Turkish baths, 1427 Washington St., 17 Beacon St. 
Bath-rooms in the hotels. 

Reading-Rooms (open evenings also). In the Public Library are the prin¬ 
cipal European periodicals, and a large number of American papers, &c. — The 
Young Men’s Christian Union (300 Washington St.) and the Young Men’s Chris¬ 
tian Association (corner Tremont and Eliot Sts.) have large and well-supplied 
reading-rooms, free to all. An introduction from a member is necessary for 
entrance to the Athenaeum reading-rooms. Most of the hotels devote a room to 
numerous files of the newspapers of the day. 

Theatres. — The Boston Theatre (PI. 27), on Washington St., near West, is 
the largest in New England. The principal tragedians of (or visiting) America 
have played here, and the building is often engaged for Italian and German 
Operas. The elegant Globe Theatre, “ the Parlor of Comedy,” was destroyed in the 
great Memorial Uay fire (May 30, 1873), but it is to be rebuilt immediately. The 
Museum Theatre. (PI. 15), on Tremont, near School St., is conducted by a stock 
company, and is called the “ Orthodox ” or “ Ministers’ Theatre,” since no spec¬ 
tacular or questionable plays are allowed there. William Warren, the great 
comedian, is a member of the Museum company, with which he has played for 26 
years, winning a wide and enviable reputation. On Howard St., near Court, is 
the Howard Athenaeum (PI. 11), devoted to varieties, and entertainments by negro 
minstrels. 

Classic music in Music Hall by the Handel and Haydn Society, the Thomas 
Orchestra, and the Apollo Club. Also semi-weeldy organ concerts. 

Consulates. — Austrian, SO State St. ; Belgian, 6 Central Whf. ; British, 127 
State St. ; French, Italian, 17 Broad ; German, 80 State; Russian, 49 India Whf. ; 
Swedish, 6 Central Whf. 

Horse-cars traverse the city in all directions.. Tremont St,, between Temple 
Place, and the Tremont House, Bowdoin Sq., and Scollay Sq. (corner Court 
and Tremont Sts.), are the principal centres of horse-car traffic. Cars leave the 
Tremont House every few minutes for the Northern Depots, Chelsea Ferry, Mt. 
Pleasant (in Dorchester), Warren St. (Roxbury), Grove Hall, Dorchester, Norfolk 
House (Roxbury), Egleston Square, Forest Hills, Lenox St., Jamaica Plain, Brook¬ 
line, Beacon St., and E. Boston. Also from Temple Place to Dudley St. (Rox¬ 
bury), and Grove Hall, via Shawmut Ave. From Scollay Sq. cars run to So. 
Boston, City Point, Bay View, Charlestown Neck, Bunker Hill, Malden, Winter 
Hill, Medford, Union Square (Somerville), Chelsea, Revere Beach (in summer), 
Lynn, Swampscott. From foot of Summer St., cars to Dorchester and Milton. 
From Bowdoin Sq., cars on 20 routes to the western suburbs, Cambridgeport, 
Riverside Press, Brighton, Newton Corner, Harvard Sq. (University), Mount 
Auburn, Watertown, Arlington, Somerville ( via Craigie’s Bridge). 

Omnibuses. — From Salem St., Charlestown, via Warren Bridge and Wash¬ 
ington St., to Concord St.' 

Carriages. — 50 cts. each passenger for a course within the city proper ; 
from south of Dover St. to the North End, $1. A tariff of fares is hung in 
each carriage. 

Steamers leave Boston as follows (in the season of navigation) : — For 
Augusta and Bath, Me., semi-weekly, from Union Whf. ; for Baltimore, from 
India Whf. ; for Bangor, semi-weekly, from Foster’s Whf. ; for Calais, Me., Sat¬ 
urdays, from Commercial Whf. ; for Dover, from Battery Whf. ; for Eastport 
and St. John, N. B., tri-weekly, from Commercial Whf. ; for Gloucester, daily, 
from 234 Broad St. ; for Halifax, N. S., Pictou, and Prince Edward’s Island, 
every Saturday, from T Whf. ; for Hull, Hingham, and Nantasket, semi-daily in 
summer, from Liverpool Whf. and 234 Broad St. ; for Long Island, Quincy 
Point, and North Weymouth, daily in summer, from Rowe’s Whf. ; for Nahant, 
daily in summer, from India Whf. ; for Philadelphia, semi-weekly, from Long 
Whf. ; for Portland, daily, from India Whf. ; for Provincetown, from Central 
Whf. ; for Savannah, every ten days, from T Whf. ; for Liverpool (Cunard 
Line), every Tuesday, from Cunard Wlif., East Boston (cabin, $80 and $100 in 
gold ; steerage, $ 30 in currency). Sailing packet-lines connect Boston with 
nearly every port of New England. 

Churches. — There are in the city 18 Baptist churches, 22 Congregationalist, 
27 Unitarian, 15 Episcopal, 22 Methodist, 7 Presbyterian, 17 Roman Catholic, 6 
Universalist, and 14 other religious societies. There is a German Lutheran church, 
corner of Shawmut Ave. and Waltham St.; a German Reformed church, 8 Shaw- 


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mut St. ; a German Methodist church, 541 Shawmut Ave., and a Synagogue 
of German Jews, on Pleasant St. 

Newspapers. — 8 daily papers are published in the city ; also 3 semi-week¬ 
lies ; 72 weeklies ; 8 bi-monthlies ; 70 monthlies (mostly magazines) ; and 14 
quarterlies. 

Boston (Shawmut, or “ Sweet Waters ”), the Puritan City, was first settled 
by a recluse Anglican clergyman, Wiliam Blackstone, about the year 1623. The 
adventurous colonists who landed at Salem, in 1630, soon moved a large party to 
Charlestown ; but, finding no water there, they crossed to the peninsula of Shawmut, 
under the leadership of Isaac Johnson, landing on the present site of Boston, 
September 7 (O. S.), 1630. The name Boston was given to the place by order of 
the Court, in honor of that English city from which came Johnson and John 
Cotton, two of the early church fathers of the new settlement.* 

In 1634 Blackstone, declaring “ I came from England because I did not like 
the lord bishops, but I can’t join with you, because I would not be under the 
lords brethren,” sold the peninsula to the colonists for £30, and went into the 
wilderness. Governor Winthrop had previously constituted Boston the capital 
of the colony, and a strong tide of immigration set in. In 1631 the barque 
“ Blessing of the Bay” was launched ; in 1632 the first church was built ; and in 
1636-38 Harvard College was founded. In 1663 Josselyn writes : “ The buildings 
are handsome, joining one to the other as in London, with many large streets, 
most of them paved with pebble-stones. In the high street towards the Com¬ 
mon there are faire houses, some of stone,” &c., — a great change since 1630, when 
one declared it to be “ a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians, 
very cold, sickly, rocky, barren, unfit for culture, and like to keep the people 
miserable.” In the Pequot War of 1637, and King Philip’s War (1675 - 76), Boston 
bore a large share, and hundreds of prisoners were guarded there. “ Philadelphia 
was a forest, and New York was an insignificant village, long after its rival (Bos¬ 
ton) had become a great commercial town.” 

The town gave men and money freely in defence of the frontiers against the 
Franco-Indian attacks, and fleet after fleet left its harbor to do battle on the 
eastern coasts. In 1704 the first American newspaper (the “ Boston News-Let¬ 
ter ”) appeared here ; in 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone foundation, with 
cannon on its parapets, and with two strong gates, was built across the isthmus, 
or neck, on the south, near the present Dover St. This, with the walls on 
on the water-front, 2,200 feet long, 15 feet high, and 20 feet thick, and the forts on 
Castle Island and Fort Hill, effectually guarded against attacks by the Dutch or 
French. In 1711, 5,000 of Marlborough’s veterans, and a large Provincial force, 
encamped at East Boston, and thence sailed on Admiral Walker's disastrous ex¬ 
pedition against Quebec. In 1739 sailed the fleet destined to attack Cuba, and 
of 500 men sent from the Massachusetts colony but 50 ever returned. Meantime 
France had erected a powerful fortress at Louisbourg, far in the north, and 4,100 
soldiers, in 13 vessels, mounting 204 guns, sailed from Boston in 1745. They 
were, joined at Canseau by 10 royal frigates ; the “Massachusetts,” 24, captured 
the French frigate “ Vigilant,” 64 ; and after firing 9,600 cannon-shot into Louis¬ 
bourg it surrendered, with 2,000 men and 76 heavy guns. Restored to France by 
London treaty-makers, the work had to be done over again, and in 1758 Amherst 
and Boscawen gathered a royal and provincial army and fleet at Boston, attacked 
Louisbourg with 7,000 men and 57 sail, lost 400 men, and took the fortress, with 
5,600 soldiers, 39 heavy guns, 6 line-of-battle ships, and several frigates. In 
1745 the Duke d’Anville, with 16 ships of the line, 95 frigates, and a large army, 
was sent to retake Louisbourg and demolish Boston. A frightful storm shattered 
this armada, but he landed a strong force at Halifax, which annihilated a Massachu¬ 
setts army in a battle at Grand Pre, and filled Boston with mourners. The feel¬ 
ing of discontent which had been growing since the forfeiture of the colonial 
charters in 1688, and which had been increased by arbitrary acts of royal gov¬ 
ernors and of the London cabinet, arose rapidly in 1762-65, on the passage 
of the “ Writs of Assistance ” and the Stamp Act. In 1768 two royal regi- 

* Boston, in Lincolnshire, Eng., was founded in G50 by St. Botolpli (boot-help), a pious 
Saxon and the patron-saint of English sailors. It is on the Witham River, 20 miles south¬ 
east of Lincoln, and has 15,000 inhabitants. The Church of St. Botolph is its pride. It was 
founded in 1307, is 245 by 08 feet, and can accommodate 5,000 people. It lias noble stained 
windows, and a famous tower 280 feet high (modelled after one at Antwerp), which is visible 
for leagues at sea. 





8 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


ments from Halifax moved into the town, and riots and outrages began to be 
frequent. Reinforcements were sent again and again to the garrison, and Lieu¬ 
tenant-General Gage, the commander of the British forces, was appointed (1774) 
Governor of Massachusetts. Then ensued the gathering of the patriot armies at 
Cambridge, the blockade of the city, and consequent distress among its people, 
and the bombardments from the American lines. When Lord Howe was forced 
to evacuate the city, March 17, 1776, 3,000 loyalists chose to go with him, and on 
the same day the Americans took possession of battered and hungry and depopu¬ 
lated Boston. 

Since the close of the Revolution the city has been engaged in great internal 
improvements, the construction of a network of railroads to all parts of New 
England, and the preservation and extension of its commerce. Great manufac¬ 
turing interests centred here, and the city boundaries were again and again en¬ 
larged. In June, 1872, the Universal Peace Jubilee was held here (as projected 
and managed by P. S. Gilmore) in an immense wooden building on the Back Bay. 
This edifice (called the Coliseum) was 550 feet long, 350 feet wide, and 115 feet 
high, thus having an area greater than that of the Milan and Cologne Cathe¬ 
drals united, or of St. Paul’s (London) and St. Sophia (Constantinople) united. 
The Roman Coliseum held 87,000 spectators, but the Boston Coliseum could 
accommodate only 40,000 to 50,000. Great galleries ran around the hall, parlors, &c., 
were plentiful, and a forest of flags and national symbols was draped within and 
floated outside. Strong forces of police, firemen, and artillerists were constantly 
on duty at the Coliseum. Some of the music was emphasized by the booming of 
cannon near the building and the ringing of the city bells, while a large company 
of uniformed firemen accompanied the oft-repeated Anvil Chorus with ringing 
blows on anvils. Strauss, the Austrian composer of waltzes, and violinist, Mes- 
dames Peschka-Leutner, Rudersdorff, and Goddard were there ; also the bands of 
the English Grenadier Guards, the French Garde Republicaine, and the Prussian 
Kaiser Franz Grenadier Regiment. These were aided by a grand orchestra of 2,000 
musicians, and a chorus of 165 well-drilled societies, comprising 20,000 voices. 
The Jubilee lasted for 3 weeks (without accident or mischance), and was varied 
by a great Presidential Ball. Early in the next year the Coliseum was taken 
down. 

The rapid extension of commerce, and the concentration of great manufacturing 
agencies in the city, produced a corresponding flow of wealth and growth of 
stately architecture. The streets between the Common and the Harbor, between 
Summer and State Sts., were lined with lofty and ornate commercial houses, 
unsurpassed elsewhere in the world, and crowded with valuable goods. There 
were tiers of streets lined with massive granite structures, which seemed as un¬ 
inflammable as ravines in the solid rock. About 7 o’clock on the warm, moonlit 
evening of November 9, 1872, a fire broke out in a building on the corner of Kings¬ 
ton and Summer Sts. It speedily crept up from the lower story and turned 
the Mansard roof into a sea of flame. The fire started thence in three direc¬ 
tions, and, fanned by the gale which it had formed, it swept up and down 
Summer St., and through the lateral avenues into Franklin St. and Wintlirop 
Sq. The firemen, although heroically active, were driven before it, until early 
Sunday morning, when several buildings were blown up. About this time 
the fire was checked in its southward progress, and the whole Fire Depart¬ 
ment (reinforced from many towns within 100 miles) faced the destroyer on 
the north. From 2 to 3 o’clock Sunday morning the firemen fought the flames on. 
Washington St., and after incredible efforts kept it on the lower side of the 
street, and saved the Old South Church, which was scorched and strewn with 
sparks. During the day the force at hand was directed on two points, the new 
U. S. Post Office on Devonshire Street, and the Merchant’s Exchange, and in 
the narrow streets between Broad and Kilby Sts. Repulsed from the first two 
points, and after a time checked in its advance toward Kilby St., the fire sank 
rapidly under the cataracts of water which were being poured upon it from the 
steam-engines massed along State St. By mid-afternoon the danger was over 
and many of the out-of-town engines were sent home. In less than*24 hours the 
richest quarter of Boston, covering about 50 acres, had been swept away and 
nothing remained of those massive piles of granite and brick save a few ragged 
and tottering fragments of wall. The loss was not far from $70,000 000 To 
keep out the swarms of thieves, and to prevent the citizens and the scores of 
thousands of visitors from imperilling themselves, three regiments of State troops 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 9 


were called out, who formed a line of guards around the burnt district, which was 
thus picketed and held under martial law for many days. Less than thirty lives 
were lost during the tire. _ The rapid and resistless spread of the conflagration 
(which would have been impossible in a European city) has been attributed to 
the narrow streets, the thin partition walls, and the universal use of lofty Man¬ 
sard roofs built of light timber and planking, and too high from the street to be 
reached by the water from the engines. “ The best treasure of Boston cannot be 
burnt lip. Her grand capital of culture and character, science and skill, humanity 
and religion, is beyond the reach of flame. Sweep away every store and house, 
every school and church, and let the people, with their history and habits, re¬ 
main, and they still have one of the richest and strongest cities on earth.” 

Boston, the capital of the State of Massachusetts, and the metropolis 
of New England, is one of the most ancient and famous of the American 
cities. Its colonial and Revolutionary epochs were filled with incidents 
of rare heroism and surpassing interest, while the later and more peace¬ 
ful years have been rich in the triumphs of commerce and industry. Al¬ 
though it has lost its former commercial supremacy, it still ranks as the 
second American city in this regard, and is carrying through vast railroad 
projects in order to keep its position. 'It is built on a deep inlet at the 
head of Massachusetts Bay, and favorably situated either for foreign traf¬ 
fic or for its vast trade with the manufacturing toAvns of New England. 
So the city has grown rapidly, its population of 30,049 in the year 1800, 
and 70,713 in 1830, having increased by 1870 to 250,526, with a valuation 
of $584,000,000. The cramped limits of the peninsula being too narrow, 
large tracts of land have been added by filling up the tide-water flats and 
coves, and by the annexation and settlement of neighboring towns. In 
spite of its frequent fires and rapid changes, Boston has more of a Euro¬ 
pean appearance than any other American city, and it has also a calm, 
cold, and reserved aristocracy of old families. The intellectual and musi¬ 
cal culture of its citizens is renowned, and the most radical and advanced 
schools of politics, philosophy, and religion find their home here. As for 
the numerous charitable houses of the city, they have generally won the 
highest praise, even the censorious Dickens saying : “ I sincerely believe 
that the public institutions and charities of this capital of Massachusetts 
are as nearly perfect as the most considerate wisdom, humanity, and 
benevolence can make them.” The district lying between State, Court, 
and Cambridge Sts., and the waters of Charles River and the Harbor, 
was, in the olden time, the most important part of the city, although it is 
now given to the purposes of trade and the dwellings of the lower classes. 
Commercial St., forming 3 sides of a square, bounds a great part of it, 
and opens on a continuous line of wharves. The great Northern depots 
of the Lowell Railroad (for Vermont and Montreal), the Eastern Rail¬ 
road, the Fitchburg, and the Boston and Maine Railroad, are situated near 
each other, on and near Causeway St. 

Copp’s Hill, in the northeast part, was the site of a British fort, which 
took an active part in the Bunker Hill battle, in 1775, and burned 








10 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


Charlestown with a shower of hot shot. The ancient burying-ground 
first used in 1660 occupies the brow of the hill, and has been sacredly- 
preserved. Here are buried three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. 
Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. The cemetery is open to the 
public. 

Near Copp’s Hill, on Salem St., is Christ Church (Episcopal), the 
oldest church edifice in the city (consecrated in 1723). A fine chime of 
bells is in the tower, and its music is almost coeval with the church. 
Near the West Boston Bridge is the large granite building of the Massa¬ 
chusetts General Hospital (PI. 4), a noble charitable institution with 
rich endowments. Near it is the Medical College of Harvard University. 
* Faneuil Hall (PI. 16), “ The Cradle of American Liberty,” was built 
and given to the city in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant. 
It was burnt in 1761, and rebuilt in time to serve the British 14th 
Eegiment for barracks (1768). During the later popular excitements 
many stirring orations were made here, until, during the siege of 1775 - 76, 
the royal officers turned it into a theatre. The Hall, 76 feet square 
and 28 feet high, has no seats, and will accommodate a great audience. 
In time of great military or political emergencies, the men of Boston 
flock to Faneuil Hall by thousands. On the walls are some good por¬ 
traits : Peter Faneuil, Sargent; George Washington, Stuart; Commo¬ 
dore Preble, General Warren, John Q. Adams, * Webster replying to 
Hayne, Healy; Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, John A. Andrew, 
* Samuel Adams, Copley (his masterpiece); and others. Fronting Fan¬ 
euil Hall is the (586 ft.) long granite building of the Quincy Market, 
where all kinds of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables are exposed in 
tempting profusion. Not far from the Market is the *U. S.' Custom 
House (PI. 24), perhaps the most massive and imposing building in Bos¬ 
ton. It was built 1837 - 49, at a cost of nearly $ 1,100,000, and its walls, 
roof, and dome are of granite. The building is in the form of a Greek 
cross, and is surrounded by 32 immense columns, 5 ft. thick and 32 
ft. high. The great granite warehouses (State St. Block, &C.) in the 
vicinity are worthy of attention ; also the ever-busy wharves near State 
St. The old Post Office (PI. 21), or Merchants’ Exchange, with 6 long 
granite columns in front, is famous as the point where the flames advancing 
on State Street were checked, in the Great Fire of 1872, by a platoon of 
husky, dingy, and quivering steam fire-engines drawn up before it. The 
Wall Street of Boston, the haunt of its bankers and brokers, is the part 
of State St. between the old Post Office and the Old State House. 
This ancient edifice was built in 1748, and long used by the legislature of 
the colony. On March 5,1770, a collision occurred between the towns¬ 
people and the British main-guard stationed here, and a volley was fired, 
killing four and wounding many of the crowd. This affair was called the 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. XI 


“ Boston Massacre,” and tlie soldiers were tried before the Colonial Court 
on the charge of murder, and exonerated. Opposite the Old State House 
is a magnificent marble building in Venetian Gothic architecture, with a 
149 ft. front on Court St. and 55 ft. on Washington St., which cost about 
$ 750,000, and is used for bank, railroad, and insurance offices. Just 
above, on Court Sq., is the heavy front of the Suffolk County Court 
House, back of which, and fronting on School St., is the *' City Hall, built 
in 1862-65. $160,000 were appropriated to build it, and it cost really 

more than $500,000. It is of white Concord granite, in the Italian 
Renaissance architecture, with 138 ft. front and 95 ft. height, the Louvre 
dome which is the headquarters of the fire-alarm being 109 ft. high. The 
Council Chambers are very fine, as is the whole interior arrangement. 
In front of the City Hall is a bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin, 8 
ft. high, on a base of verde antique and granite, with historic bronze me¬ 
dallions on the sides. The artist was R. S. Greenough, and the means 
of its erection ($20,000) were raised by the people. 

Benjamin Franklin was born in Boston in 1706. He was apprenticed to liis 
brother, a printer, but ran away to Philadelphia in 1723. There he rose steadily 
until in 1764 he was sent to England as colonial agent, when, in 1766, he spoke 
before the House of Commons, and the Stamp Act was repealed. Elected to 
Congress, he was on the committee on the Declaration of Independence, and 
signed that document. From 1776 to 1785 he was-Minister to France, with which 
he procured the treaty of alliance of 1778 which saved the Republic. His later 
works were of diplomacy and philanthropy, and he founded the Abolition So¬ 
ciety. He invented the harmonica, and the Franklin stove ; and in 1752 found 
the identity of lightning and the electric fluid by means of a kite. His scientific 
labors won him high honor in Europe. 

Opposite the City Hall is the Parker House (PI. 19), and to the right is 
King’s Chapel. 

On Washington St., near the foot of School St., is the Old South 
Church, the shrine of Boston. It was built in 1729, on the site of a 
cedar-wood church which had been built in 1669. The exciting meetings 
of the people in the late colonial days were held here, and thence marched 
the disguised men to the attack on the tea ships (Dec. 13th, 1773.) In 
1775 the pews were removed, and a riding-school for the British cavalry 
was here formed, the interior being well packed with gravel, and a liquor 
saloon being placed in one of the galleries. The church was restored in 
1782, and contained (until 1873) two galleries, many square “pues on ye 
lower flore,” and a pulpit overarched by a sounding-board. Externally it 
is plain, with a high spire, and a clock. “ More eyes are upturned to 
its clock daily than to any other timekeeper in New England.” Franklin 
was baptized here (in the older church); Whitefield has preached here ; 
for one hundred and sixty years the election sermons (before the legisla¬ 
ture, council, and governor) have been delivered here ; it was saved, by 
deathless heroism, from the Great Fire ; and yet before 1875 this ancient 
shrine will probably be torn down and replaced by a line of shops with 






12 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


a Mansard roof. It was leased to the Government for a Post Office in 
December, 1872. 

Near the Old South, on Milk and Devonshire Sts., is the structure 
to be occupied by the TJ. S. Post Office and Sub-Treasury (PI. 44). It is 
built of granite, in the prevalent French style of architecture, with an | 
immense roof, and groups of statuary on the front. Its great size, and f 
the fineness of its materials, render it an imposing building. The mas- i j 
sive granite, front on Milk St. was so much cracked and injured in , j 
the Great Fire (by intense heat from a'cross the street) that much of it ; 
had to be rebuilt. The building fronts 200 ft. on Devonshire St., and 
will cost from $ 2,000,000 to $ 3,000,000. From this building (which was 
held desperately and successfully against the fire) the burnt district lies 
on the south, east, and west. From the Old South Church, Washington i 
St., the main retail thoroughfare of the city, runs southwest, and is ! 
always filled with a busy throng. On the corner of School St. is the j 
Old Corner Bookstore, in a building dating from 1712. Farther along j 
are the two principal theatres, and some large bookstores. The corner J j 
of Washington and Winter Sts. is the liveliest point in the city, and i j 
Winter St. is full of ladies’ shops. 

From Boylston Market Boylston St. runs out past the Common, j 
At the corner of Tremont St., and facing the Common, is the Masonic 
Temple (PI. 45), built 1864-67. The first Masonic Lodge in America met j 
in Boston in 1733, since when the order has steadily grown, save during 
the days of the Anti-Masonic party. The Temple is a lofty edifice of j 
granite, built in such forms of mediaeval architecture as “ to suggest the j 
most effective poetical and historical associations connected with the Ma- 8 
sonic institution.” The interior contains Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic 1 
Halls, besides banqueting-rooms, &c. Opposite the Temple is the large 
and elegant Hotel Boylston (suites of rooms for permanent dwellers), in j 
the Italian-Gothic stjde. The lofty brownstone building of the Hotel | 
Pelham is on the opposite corner,*next door to which is the * Boston Pub¬ 
lic Library, in a so-called fire-proof building of brick and sandstone, j 
This Library contains 193,000 volumes, and 100,000 pamphlets, and is the 
largest in America, except the Library of Congress. The Lower Hall is J 
devoted to popular books and a reading-room, while the noble Bates Hall, f 
above, is reserved for more substantial works. All these rooms are open ! 
to the public, and any one can take books and read there, though only resi- I 
dents of the city can take books from the building. The walls of the rooms 
are covered with pictures, which form part of the collection of engravings 
formerly owned by Cardinal Tosti, of Rome. This collection, embracing 'f 
from 6,000 to.7,000 pictures (many being fine old works of Marc Antonio II 
and Albert Diirer), was presented to the Library by Mr. T. G. Appleton, 
and fills many volumes. 







BOSTON. 


Route 1. 13 


The U. S. Court House, corner Tremont St. and Temple PL, was 
"built and long used as a Masonic Temple. It has a churchly look, and 
the main walls are built of triangular blocks of granite. Next to the 
Court House is St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, of gray granite, with 6 
columns of Potomac sandstone upholding a classic pediment. Near this, 
at the corner of Park St. (formerly called Brimstone Corner), is Park 
Street Church, an old Puritan meeting-house, where the able and bril¬ 
liant Murray is now settled. Adjoining the Church is the Old Granary 
Burying Ground , where are buried Governor Bellingham (died 1672), and 
8 other colonial and state governors, 2 signers of the Declaration of 
Independence, 6 famous divines, Peter Faneuil, who gave the Hall to 
Boston, Paul Revere, the Revolutionary hero, Chief Justice Samuel Sew- 
all, John Hancock (see Quincy), and Samuel Adams. 

Samuel Adams, born at Boston in 1722, was one of the leaders of the people in 
the agitations of 1764-75, and was proscribed by the royal government. In 1769 
he advocated the independence of America, and during the Revolution directed 
the measures of Congress in the Northern war. “ Though poor, Samuel Adams 
possessed a lofty and incorruptible spirit, was pure in morals, and grave and austere 
in manner, though warm in his feelings. As a speaker, he was pure, concise, 
logical, and impressive ; and the energy of his diction was not inferior to the 
strength of his mind. ” The State is to place his statue in the Capitol at Wash¬ 
ington. A granite pyramid is over the remains of Franklin’s parents. From 
the sidewalk before the cemetery rises a row of tall elms, which were transplanted 
from England, and placed here in 1762. 

Opposite the Church is the extensive publishing house of James R. Os¬ 
good & Co., and beyond it, down Hamilton PL, is seen the plain wall 
of Music Hall (Pl. 25). Entrance from Central Pl., 15 Winter St., or 
at 116 Tremont St. This is one of the most elegant and well-arranged 
halls in America, and is of rare ' acoustic properties. Within this hall 
is the largest organ in the New World, containing 5474 pipes, and 84 com¬ 
plete registers, and encased in an elegant frame, with a colossal statue 
of Beethoven in the foreground. The organ was built by Herr Walcker, 
of Ludwigsburg, 1857-63, at a cost of $ 60,000 dollars, and is often played 
by competent professionals. Farther along Tremont St., on the right, is 
the elegant white granite building of the Horticultural Hall, with a many- 
columned front, — Doric in the first story, Ionic in the second, and Corin¬ 
thian in the third. The rich cornice is surmounted by a colossal Ceres, a 
copy from the ancient statue in the Vatican; while on piers, at the cor¬ 
ners of the second story, are statues of Flora and Pomona. Fairs, floral 
shows, and lectures are held in the spacious halls above. Alongside the 
Hall is the Studio Building, the home of many local artists. 

Tremont Temple comes next, with a plain Palladian front, and a great 
hall, which is used on Sunday by a Baptist church, and during the week 
for lectures, readings, etc. On the same side of the street is King’s 
Chapel, built in 1754, by the Episcopalians, on the site of the first church 
of that sect in Boston (built 1689). King’s Chapel was deserted by its 



14 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


people when Gage and the Loyalists left the town, and was occupied by 
the Old South Society. At a later day, influenced by their rector, Rev. 
James Freeman, the few remaining churchmen revised their liturgy, strik- 
ing out all Trinitarianism, and formed themselves into the first Unitarian 
church in Boston. Next to this Church is the burying-ground used by 
the Puritans from 1630 onward. Isaac Johnson, “ The Father of Bos¬ 
ton,” was buried here ere the first year of the settlement was ended. 
About him his people were buried for many years. In one tomb is Gov- • 
ernor JohnWinthrop, and his two sons, who were governors of Connecticut. 

John Winthrop, a pious lawyer of Suffolk, led a colony to Salem in 1630. He 
moved his people to Boston and built up that place, where he ruled as Governor 
of Massachusetts, 1630 - 34,1637 - 40,1642 - 44,1646 - 49. He was an amiable gen¬ 
tleman, a firm ruler, and a believer in moderate aristocratic principles, stating in 
his letter to the people of Connecticut, that “ the best part of a community is 
always the least, and of that part the wiser are still less.” 

Other noted Puritans are buried here, and in the church are monuments 
to the families of Apthorpe, Shirley, and Vassall. 

Beyond the cemetery is a granite building, partly occupied by the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, which has a library of 16,000 books, 
and 800 volumes of MSS. Many ancient portraits (Increase Mather, 
Sebastian Cabot, &c.) adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and 
the Puritan governors, and of King Philip, the chair of Winslow, the 
swords of Church and of Governor Carver, are carefully preserved here. 
The New England Historic-Genealogical Society (18 Somerset St.) has a 
fine library, and a small collection of curiosities. 

At 40 Winter St. are the rooms of the American and Foreign Chris¬ 
tian Union, the Sunday School Union, the Peace Society, and the Congre¬ 
gational Association. Churchmen of the various sects will find their 
respective headquarters as follows: Baptist Mission Society, 12 Bedford 
St. ; Congregational Club, comer Somerset and Beacon Sts. ; Publishing 
Society, 13 Cornhill; Episcopal Church Association, comer West and 
Tremont; Methodist Educational and Historical Societies, 38 Bromfield ; 
New Church Union, 2 Hamilton Place (library and reading-room); 
Universalist Publishing House, 37 Cornhill; American Unitarian Asso¬ 
ciation, 42 Chauncy St. ; Christian Unity, 375 Harrison Ave. ; Parker 
Fraternity, 554 Washington St. The General Theological Library (22 
West St.) and the Mercantile Library are much used, and the reading- 
rooms of the Young Men’s Christian Association (corner Tremont and 
Eliot) and the Young Men’s Christian Union (300 Washington St.) 
are pleasant, and freely open. The British, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and 
Italians have benevolent societies. In Boston there are 27 lodges, 8 
chapters, and 6 commanderies of Masons, 18 lodges and 5 encampments 
of Odd Fellows, 22 divisions of Sons of Temperance, 13 Temples of 
Honor, 7 lodges of Good Templars, 9 posts of the Grand Army of the 






BOSTON. 


Route 1. 15 


Republic, 15 lodges of the Knights of Pythias, and 4 lodges of the Haru- 
gari (Germans). 

On Tremont, near School St., is the Boston Museum (entrance fee, 
30 cts.) where, in a lofty hall, a great number of rare things are 
shown, embracing curiosities from all parts of the world, casts, wax-fig¬ 
ures, scores of portraits of eminent Americans (by West, Copley, Stuart, 
etc.), and Sully’s great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware. 

Boston Common. When the peninsula of Shawmut (now Boston) was 
bought from Blackstone for £ 30, in the year 1634, this tract was reserved by the 
colonists for a training-ground (parade) and pasture. Every attempt since made 
to occupy portions of it has been repulsed, except in the early days, when the 
ground between Park, Beacon, and Tremont Sts. was taken. Special care was 
taken, in 1822, when the city was formed, to withhold from the municipal gov¬ 
ernment the power of alienating any part of the Common. Between 1656 and 
1660 several persons were executed here on the charge of witchcraft, and for one 
hundred and fifty years after executions took place on the Common. During the 
summer of 1676 many scores of Indians caught red-handed were put to death 
here, among whom was the insurgent chief Matoonus. Thirty were executed in 
one day, and their heads were fastened on stakes and left in public places. About 
this time (1675) the traveller Josselyn speaks of it as “ a small but pleasant Com¬ 
mon, where the Gallants, a little before sunset, walk with their Marmalet- 
Madams, till the bell at 9 o’clock rings them home. In 1728 occurred a fatal 
duel, under the Old Elm, whereupon a law was passed, that persons killed in 
duels should be denied Christian burial, and should be buried transfixed with a 
stake. If the duel was not fatal, both parties should stand on the gallows one 
hour with a rope about their necks, and then be imprisoned for one year. So the 
so-called code of honor passed from the social system of Massachusetts. In 1749 
George Whitefield preached to 20,000 persons in one body on the Common. 
During the American siege of Boston a British fort was built on the hill near 
the Elm Tree, which drew some of Washington’s heavy shot. Races, parades, 
and military executions were meanwhile held here. The garrison of the town in 
1812 encamped here, and so late as 1830 it was a cow-pasture enclosed by a two- 
i railed fence. In 1836 the present iron-fence (1| M. long) was built, and cattle 
were excluded. In the days of the Rebellion the assembling troops paraded here, 
and in the Great Fire of 1872 vast mounds of saved goods were piled along the 
! malls and on the lawns. 

Boston Common contains about 48 acres, and is rich in lawns and 
noble trees. No carriages are allowed to enter, and the walks are filled 
with people on pleasant summer evenings and Sundays. Under the 
, stately elms of the Beacon and Tremont St. Malls are favorite prome- 
; nades. Near Park St. is the Brewer fountain, made in Paris, and em¬ 
bellished with bronze statues of Neptune and Amphitrite, Acis and Gal¬ 
atea. Copies of this fountain have been made for the cities of Lyons, 
Bordeaux, and Alexandria (Egypt). The Erog Pond has a large foun¬ 
tain, supplied from Cochituate Lake, and near it is the Old Elm, — a great 
and ancient tree which is peculiarly revered by the Bostonians, and has 
been bolted and bandaged with iron and canvas, and fenced in, and so 
i preserves its hale and verdant strength. On Flagstaff Ilill, near the Old 
Elm, a soldiers’ monument is to be built, to be 90 ft. high, with historical 
reliefs, &c.; at the four corners heroic statues of Peace, History, the Army, 
and the Navy. Above will be allegorical figures, — the North, South, East, 







16 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


and West, — and above all a colossal America, resting on a hemisphere, 
guarded by four eagles, with the flag in her left hand, and wreaths and a 
sheathed sword in her right. In the south part, near the old cemetery, 
is a deer-park. The west part of the Common is smooth and bare, and is 
reserved for a parade-ground and a ball-ground for the boys. 

The Public Gardens lie west of the Common, and contain 22 acres. 
In 1794, 6 ropewalks were built here, on tide-water flats, and most of 
the improvements have been made during the past 15 years. In its 
centre is a beautiful artificial serpentine pond of 4 acres, crossed by a fine 
bridge. Near Beacon St. is a bronze statue of Everett , by Story, mod¬ 
elled in Home and cast in Munich. The monument to the discovery of 
anaesthetics (1868) is a rich and beautiful composition. * Venus rising 
from the Sea is a lovely work, from above which, when the waters play, 
a fine spray falls about the figure, which is sometimes called “the Maid 
of the Mist.” But the finest work of the kind in New England is the 
colossal equestrian * Statue of Washington, by Ball, which fronts on 
Commonwealth Ave. The statue is 22 ft. high, on a pedestal 16 ft. 
high. The bronze work was done at Chicopee, in this State. 

Commonwealth Ave. — which is to be 1J miles long and is 240 ft. 
wide, with a park in the middle — runs W. from the Public Gardens, and 
is lined with fine mansions. A statue of Alexander Hamilton is in the 
park. Nearly all the land north of Tremont and west of Arlington St. 
has been reclaimed from the water, and is now the finest part of the city. 
The new streets are alphabetically named, yet they avoid the weak sound 
of the upper New York and Washington city streets, having sonorous old 
English titles, —Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fair- 
field, Gloucester, &c. At the comer of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets 
is the * rich and elegant building (with English glass, a German organ, 
and an exquisite little cloister) of the First Church in Boston (Unita¬ 
rian). This society dates from 1630. Nearby, on the corner of Berke¬ 
ley and Newbury Sts., is the miniature cathedral of the Central Congre¬ 
gational Society. It is of Roxbury stone, in cruciform shape, has a stone 
spire 240 ft. high, and is rich in lofty, pointed windows, pinnacles, flying 
buttresses, &c. It cost $ 325,000. In this vicinity is the Emanuel Church 
(Episcopal) on Newbury St., and the fine brownstone Arlington St. 
Church (Unitarian) with its melodious chime of bells. Alongside the Cen¬ 
tral Church is the fine building of the Society of Natural History, where 
courses of lectures are given. The extensive collections embrace birds, 
shells, reptiles, fishes, insects, fossils, with sections devoted to ethnology, 
geology, palaeontology, mineralogy, and microscopy. The finest collection 
of mounted skeletons in America is kept here. The classic building of 
the Institute of Technology is close to the Museum. This is a richly- 
endowed popular school of high order, whose object is to teach the appli- 


BOSTON. Route 1. 17 

cation of science to the useful arts, for which purpose it is provided with 
fino cabinets and apparatus. 

The * State House (PI. 13) is on the summit of Beacon Hill, fronting 
the Common. Its corner-stone was drawn to the place July 4, 1795, 
by fifteen white horses, amid great ceremonies. The most prominent ob¬ 
jects on the exterior are the fine Corinthian colonnade and the high round 
dome. When the Legislature (or General Court) is in session, national 
flags are displayed from the building. The * Doric Hall, at the entrance, 
is a neat, marble-paved room, supported by columns, and surrounded by 
high niches, fronted with plate-glass, in which are gathered the banners 
of the Massachusetts regiments borne in the War for the Union. On the 
right are busts of Charles Sumner and Samuel Adams, and on the left a 
bust of Abraham Lincoln and a statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, by Ball. 
In a marble-paved and banner-hung rotunda, opening on the Doric Hall, 
is Chan trey’s * Statue of Washington, in front of which are copies of the 
monuments of the old Washington family, at Brington, in Northampton¬ 
shire. The House of Representatives (up stairs to the left from the Doric 
Hall) is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, with a codfish hanging from 
the roof, as emblematic of a prolific source of the wealth of the State, 
The Senate Chamber is on the other side, and is adorned by some old por¬ 
traits and trophies. The extensive State Library is in the west wing. 
From the dome of the State House (open when the Legislature is not in 
session) is obtained a fine * view. Boston Harbor, with its islands, and 
peninsulas, and the distant blue ocean, fill the east; in the north are 
Charlestown, its Navy Yard and Monument, with Lynn, Chelsea, Malden, 
and Medford ; to the west, Charles River and Back Bay, Cambridge, Brigh¬ 
ton, Brookline, and Newton ; and in the south, Roxbury and Dorchester, 
with the blue hills of Milton far away. On the terraces in front of the 
building are bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the 
great educationist. The house opposite (corner Park and Beacon Sts.) 
was for 40 years the home of George Ticknor, author of the “ History 
of Spanish Literature,” in 3 volumes (translated into German and Span¬ 
ish), who bequeathed 4,000-5,000 Spanish books to the Public Library. 
The Union Club (600 members), a patriotic organization formed in 1863, 
occupies the next house below (on Park St.). On Beacon St., near the 
State House, is the * Boston Athenaeum, a neat, brownstone building, 
in the Palladian style. On the lower floor is the library of the American 
Academy of Arts and Sciences, and a large reading-room adorned with 
statuary. In the vestibule are casts of Houdon's Washington and of 
Sophocles, also a marble statue — The First Inspiration of Columbus — 
by Montaverde, and a bronze group — the Boy and the Eagle — by Green- 
ough. Among the statuary in the reading-room is Orpheus in Hades, 
Crawford; Hebe and Ganymede, Crawford; Children, Greenough; and 

B 


18 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


fine casts of Thonvalclsen’s Venus, Angelo’s Night - and Morning, the 
Laocoon, Apollo Belvedere, Minerva, Menander, Barberini Faun, &c. On 
the second floor is a nohle library of nearly 100,000 volumes, including 
the library of Washington, and 400-500 volumes of engravings. The 
building and its contents being owned by the Athenaeum, an introduction 
from one of its members will give strangers the benefits of the library. 
The stairways are lined with large paintings, and on the third floor is 
the Picture Gallery (fee, 25 cts.). 300-350 pictures are on exhibition 
here, mostly copies from the old masters. 

The original works (numbers often changed) are, * Sortie from Gibraltar, Trum¬ 
bull (his masterpiece); Arch of Octavius, Bierstadt; Belshazzar’s Feast , Allston 
(“The American Titian”); Mount Washington, Gay; * Isaac of York , Allston; 
Indian Captive, Weir; Angels appearing to Shepherds, Cole; Priam and dead 
Hector, Trumbull; portraits of 44 Washington and his Wife, Stuart; Benjamin 
West, Allston; Daniel Webster. Chief Justice Marshall, Harding ; William Tudor, 
Sully ; the Rajah Rammohun Roy, R. Peale; William Wirt, Inman; * Count of 
Wurtemberg mourning over his Dead Son, Ary Schaeffer; Storm at Sea, Hue; 
Garden of Love, Watteau; two fruit-pieces, Peter Boel; Landscape, Ruysdael ; 
Dante and Beatrice, Schaeffer; The Flaying of Marsyas, and the Golden Age, 
Luca Giordano. There are a great number of copies (in oil) of famous European 
pictures, and in one room 50 of the chromo-lithographs of the Arundel Society 
(London), being copies of famous religious paintings in the noontide of art. In 
these rooms are casts of the antique works, — the Quoit-Players, Piping Faun, Si- 
lenus and Bacchus, Boy with a thorn in his foot, the Venus de Milo, and the 
Dying Gladiator, with busts of Julius Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Clau¬ 
dius, Nei-o, Galba, Otho, Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan. Ha¬ 
drian, the Antonines, &c. A beautiful marble copy of the Venus de Medici is in 
one room, also (in marble) Greek Girl, by Wolf; * Maid of Carthage, Greenougli; 
Will o’ the Wisp, Harriet Hosmer ; * Venus Victrix, Greenough. 

One room is occupied by a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, embracing 
hundreds of figures of the gods Osiris, Arnun, Horus, Isis, &e., in bronze, marble, 
wood, porcelain, and terra-cotta ; also a large number of scarabsei, amulets, vases, 
and curious jewels. There are also seven human mummies,’ with a great number 
of funereal trappings, and mummies of monkeys, lambs, ibises, cats, hawks, mice, 
crocodiles, tortoises, snakes, &c. There are 1,100 pieces in this collection (cata¬ 
logue, at the door, 25 cts.). 

In the next room are several hundred lamps, amphorae, cups, statuettes, heads, 
weapons, &c., from Idalium, on the Island of Cyprus, of great interest to the 
student of early Phoenician and Greek history. The Appleton collection is on the 
same floor, containing many Graeco-Italian fictile painted vases from Etruscan 
and Campanian tombs. Some elaborate old cabinets contain fine Venetian glass¬ 
ware, and a large number of rich majolica plates are exhibited. A large piece of 
Gobelins tapestry (France crowned by Victory and attended by Minerva) occupies 
one end of the room ; at the other end is a group of plaster casts from famous Italian 
bas-reliefs, near which is a Madonna and Child, by Luca della Robbia, and the 
Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by Andrea della Robbia. Two large pictures by 
Boucher, two by Allston, a large collection of ancient coins (a gold Alexander), and 
the rich oaken panels, carved and gilded, from the Chateau Montmorency, are 
worthy of note. The positions of the pictures and curiosities are so often changed 
that a more careful list would be of no permanent use. 

Near the Athenaeum is Pemberton Square, the site of an old Indian ne¬ 
cropolis, where 300 skulls were dug up in Cotton Mather’s time. Gover¬ 
nor Endicott and Sir Henry Vane lived near this spot, and in later days 
it was an aristocratic centre. Now its houses are occupied hy offices, and 
in the Mission Rooms (number 35) is kept a small museum of curiosities 
from “ lands of heathenesse. ” Louisburg Square is a stately and silent place 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 19 


on the farther slope of Beacon Hill, embellished with statues of Aristides 
and Columbus. Near the State House is a vast and massive granite 
structure, 200 feet square and 66 feet high, on Derne St., which is 
called the Beacon Hill Reservoir, and holds, at this high ftvel, about 
2,700,000 gallons of water. 

The Perkins Institution for the Blind was founded in 1831, by Dr. S. 
G. Howe. It was favored by liberal popular contributions, and now oc¬ 
cupies large buildings on Mt. Washington, S. Boston. Charles Dickens 
visited and highly praised this institution, as also the charitable and cor¬ 
rective establishments in a secluded position near Independence Square, 
S. Boston (Insane Hospital and House of Correction). 

u Such are the institutions at South Boston. In all of them the unfortunate or 
degenerate citizens of the State are carefully instructed in their duties both to 
God and man ; are surrounded by all reasonable means of comfort or happiness 
that their condition will admit of ; and are ruled by the strong Heart, and not by 
the strong (though immeasurably weaker) Hand.” — Dickens. 

The extensive Carney Hospital (managed by Sisters of Charity) is near by on 
the hill, and above it is a reservoir and small park near the site of the old fort. 
On the bright, moonlit night of March 3, 1776, General Thomas and 2,000 Ameri¬ 
cans advanced quietly to this point (Dorchester Heights), and, when morning 
dawned, two strong forts were completed within point-blank range of Boston. 
Lord Percy and 2,400 royal troops were ordered to attack them, and Washington 
himself, with 4,000 men, awaited the onset. But a storm, “ propitious to the 
real interests of the British army,” prevented Percy from crossing the harbor. A 
few days later the city was heavily bombarded, and a new fort having been built 
still nearer, the royal forces were forced to evacuate Boston, March 18, sailing 
away in 150 transports, and carrying with them 3,000 New-Englanders who re¬ 
mained loyal to King George. From this little park a fine view is obtained of 
Boston and its harbor, and of Dorchester and the southern suburbs. 

The South End. 

The district south of Boylston and Essex Sts. is mainly occupied by 
dwelling-houses, and Washington St., with its retail stores and hotels, 
runs through its centre. The greater part of this district has been re¬ 
claimed from the water. Near the line of Dover St. a wall garnished 
with cannon formerly crossed the Neck and defended the town. Union 
Park and Worcester and Chester Squares are embellished with trees and 
fountains and surrounded with fine residences. Columbus Ave.,on the 
north, is a broad thoroughfare of aristocratic pretensions and forming an 
admirable drive-way. On Tremont St. is the imposing white granite 
edifice of Odd Fellows’ Hall (built 1871 - 73), and beyond it some fine 
churches, the best of which is the quaint and rambling Methodist Church. 
On Harrison Ave., near Concord St., is the City Hospital (PI. 10.) with 
a fine building (surmounted by a dome) in the centre, joined to the 
spacious wings by curving colonnades. Near the Hospital is the Roman 
Catholic Home for Orphans, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate 
Conception (with a fine interior, and famed for its music), connected with 
which is Boston College. 









20 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

The Roman Catholic * Cathedral of the Holy Cross is on the comer of j 
Washington and Malden Sts. This stately structure was commenced in 
1867, and is yet far from completion. The mediaeval Gothic architec¬ 
ture has been closely adhered to in its construction, though in its phase of ' 
severest simplicity. Its external length (including the Chapel of the Holy 
Cross) is 365 ft.; the nave is 320 ft. long and 120 ft. high. The Cathedral 
is 188 ft. wide at the transepts, and in the nave and aisles its width is 90 
ft. The external length is greater than that of the Cathedrals at Vienna, 
Ratisbon, Munich, Orvieto, Messina, Monreale, Pisa, Venice, Freibourg, 
Treves, or St. Denis. It is higher (in the nave) than the Cathedrals at 
Vienna, Munich, Paris, Spires, Strasburg, Freibourg, Rheims, Chartres, 
Antwerp, or St. Ouen at Rouen. The main spire is to reach a height'of 
320 ft., and to be provided with a fine chime of bells. St. Patrick’s Ca¬ 
thedral, at New York, and the Montreal Cathedral (just commenced) are 
the only rivals in America of the Cathedral of the Holy Cross. 

2. Environs of Boston. 

“ It is not only in the Harvard precincts that the oldness of New England is to 
be remarked. Although her people are everywhere in the vanguard of all pro- | 
gress, their country has a look of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws 
seem fresh from the hands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has 
suburbs so gray and venerable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, — Dorehes- t 
ter, Chelsea, Naliant, and Salem ; the people speak the English of Elizabeth, and 
joke about us — ‘he speaks good English for an Englishman.'” — Sib Charles 
Dilke. 

Boston Harbor. 

The Route to Nahant. Soon after leaving India Wharf, with East 
Boston on the left, Governor’s Island is passed on the r. This island 
was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and was long called Gover¬ 
nor’s Garden, and here, according to Josselyn, in 1638, were the only 
apple and pear trees in New England. A powerful fortress of the United 
States, called Fort Winthrop, now occupies the island. Soon after pass¬ 
ing the Fort the steamer enters a narrow strait, between Point Shirley 
on the 1. and Deer Island on the r. The point was named in honor 
of William Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts 1741 to 1756, sometime ! 
commander of the British armies in America, and Governor of the Ba¬ 
hama Islands. It now forms the S. end of the town of Winthrop, and 
is occupied by Taft’s Hotel, widely renowned for its excellent fish and 
game dinners. Opposite Point Shirley is Deer Island (4| M. from II 
Boston), “ so-called because of the deare, who often swim thither from 
the maine when they are chased by the wolves ” (17th century). During 
the war of King Philip (1675-76) this place presented a pitiful sight, 
for hundreds of Indian prisoners were landed and guarded here, and 
scores of them died of hunger and from exposure to the winter frosts. At 
present the island is occupied by the immense buildings (in the form of a 

Xl 






ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 21 

Latin Cross) of the Boston Almshouse, and of the House of Industry and 
the House of Reformation. 

In May, 1776, the*Boston privateers “ Franklin ” and “ Lady Wash¬ 
ington ” grounded on Point Shirley, and were attacked by. thirteen British 
man-of-war boats. The action lasted for several hours, until the tide 
rose, when the privateers escaped. In the war of 1812 the frigate “Con¬ 
stitution ” was once blockaded in Boston Harbor, and got away by creep¬ 
ing through Shirley Gate by night. Beyond Point Shirley the lofty bluffs 
of Winthrop are passed on the 1., succeeded by Chelsea Beach with its 
hotels, and the City and Harbor of Lynn, in full view of which the wharf 
at Nahant is gained. 

Nahant. 

By steamer direct from India Wharf, Boston, or by Eastern Railroad to Lynn, 
and thence by omnibus 6 times daily. 

Hotels. — The immense hotel at East Point, built 1824, and long the pride of 
the coast, was‘burned in 1861 ; there remain but small hotels, — Whitney’s Vil¬ 
lage Hotel, Bay View Cottage, Hood Cottage. 

Nahant is a peninsula composed of ocean-swept rocks, with pleasant 
beaches interspersed, and villas scattered over its heights, where many of 
the cultured and literary people of Boston and Cambridge spend their 
summers. It is 12 M. from Boston by water and 4 M. from Lynn by 
land. Crossing the long and narrow sandy isthmus called Lynn Beach, 
with the roar of surf continuous on the ocean-front, the rocky ridge 
of Little Nahant is passed, and Nahant Beach extends to the peninsula 
proper. Mr. Tudor, who for years supplied Massachusetts ice to the 
four quarters of the world, and hence is called the “ Ice-King,” has fitted 
up a pleasant resort for visitors on the north side of Nahant. About 20 
acres of picturesque grounds along the sea, adorned with fountains and 
shell-work, and commanding a fine view of Lynn and Swampscott, com¬ 
pose this .Garden of Maolis (Siloam). Entrance fee, 25 cts. A good 
fish or clam dinner may be had in the Maolis pavilions. Among the 
jagged and savage-browed cliffs of Nahant are numberless curious forma¬ 
tions of the rock, named as follows: John’s Peril, a deep chasm in the 
cliffs, on the north, and near Nahant Beach; the Spouting Horn, where 
the surf dashes through a long, rocky tunnel into a cavern, and there is 
spouted forth with great force ; Castle Rock, a massive and regular pile 
of rock, faintly resembling some ancient castle-keep ; Caldron Cliff and 
Roaring Cavern are grandly resonant in time of storms; Natural Bridge, 
an arch of rock spanning a narrow, tide-swept fissure ; Pulpit Rock; and 
Sappho’s Rock. The three last-named are on East Point, the site of the 
vast hotel, of which a relic remains, in the shape of a pretty little classic 
building on the outermost promontory, which looks like an ancient Greek 
shrine on some cliff of the Aegean, and which really was a billiard- 
saloon. 







22 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


On the S. shore is Swallows’ Cave, a cavern 72 ft. deep, increasing 
from 10 ft. wide and 5 ft. high to 14 ft. wide and 20 ft. high. Near the 
tall rock arch called Irene’s Grotto is the steanAoat landing. N. E. 
of the peninsula, and well out in Nahant Bay, Egg Rock rises sharply 
from the sea to the height of 86 ft., and is crowned by a lighthouse. 
Many old traditions cluster around Nahant, which is said to mean “ Lov¬ 
ers’ Walk.” 

“ The temperature of Nahant, being moderated by sea breezes, so as to be cooler 
in summer and milder in winter than the mainland, is regarded as being highly 
conducive to health. It is delightful in summer to ramble round this romantic 
peninsula, and to examine at leisure its interesting curiosities ; to hear the waves 
rippling the colored pebbles of the beaches, and see them gliding over the pro¬ 
jecting ledges in fanciful cascades ; to behold the plovers and sandpipers running 
along the beaches, the seal slumbering upon the outer rocks, the white gulls 
soaring overhead, the porpoises pursuing their rude gambols along the shore, and 
the curlew, the loon, the black duck, and the coot, the brant, with his dappled 
neck, and the oldwife, with her strange, wild, vocal melody, swimming gracefully 
in the coves and rising and sinkingwith the swell of the tide. The moonlight even¬ 
ings here are exceedingly lovely ; and the phosphoric radiance of the billows, on 
f ivorable nights (making the waters look like a sea of fire) exhibits a scene of 
wonderful beauty.” — Lewis. » 

The Route to Hull, Hingham, etc. So many are the routes by water 
to the South Shore that the islands in that part of the harbor will be 
spoken of without regard to any special course. 

S. Boston is first passed on the right, and then Fort Winthrop, near 
which, due E. of S. Boston, is Castle Island. Fortifications were built 
here in 1634, “ to make many shots at such ships as shall offer to enter 
the harbor without their good leave and liking; it is of very good use 
to awe any insolent persons, that, putting confidence in their ships and 
sails, shall offer any injury to the people, or contemn their government; 
and they have certain signals of alarms (cannon and lights on Beacon Hill) 
which suddenly spread through the whole country.” At the coronation 
of King William, the battery was called Castle William, and was much 
strengthened by the British, until at the evacuation of Boston they de¬ 
stroyed it. It was repaired by the Americans in time to fire a 13-gun 
salute for the surrender of Burgoyne (1777). In 1798, President John 
Adams being present, it was named Fort Independence, and ceded to the 
United States. The present fort was but lately completed. 

In 240 years the little mud fort, passing through the gradations of a 
wooden palisade and a brick “castle,” has developed into a granite fort¬ 
ress of great power and destructive force. S. E. of Castle Island is Spec¬ 
tacle Island, where are carried the dead horses from Boston, and farther 
S. is Thompson’s Island, which bears the State Farm School, — a noble 
institution, where the neglected street arabs and poor orphans of the State 
are cared for. Well-fed and clothed, they are employed in farming in the 
warmer months, and schooling in the winter, and at the age of twenty- 
one receive a suit of clothes and one hundred dollars. Eastward of 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 23 


Thompson's is Long Island (where the steamer stops), the site of a large 
hotel once very popular. On the high bluffs of this island is an iron 
lighthouse which can be seen from 15 M. off at sea. A powerful bat¬ 
tery is being built by the General Government at the head of Long Island. 
E. of the battery is the reef of Nix’s Mate, with a massive pyramid of 
stone and iron 32 ft. high, warning seamen of a dangerous shoal. In 1636 
“ Nixes ilande ” covered 12 acres, and it long served as a place to execute 
pirates and murderers. The legend reports that Captain Nix was killed 
by his mate, and that the latter was executed on this spot, declaring his 
innocence, and prophesying that the island would wash away in proof of 
it. The fact that but one acre of shoal, and a low, narrow ledge of rocks 
remain, is thought to help the legend very much. 

S. E. of Long Island, and 7 M. from Boston, is Rainsford’s Island, 
where a hospital was located in 1738, which is still in operation. Gal- 
loup’s Island,'to the N., is one of the Quarantine Stations. Still farther 
E., on George’s Island, stands Fort Warren, a powerful fortress of the 
first class, called the key of Boston Harbor. It was built between 1833 
and 1850, of hammered Quincy granite with powerful water-batteries. Dur¬ 
ing the Rebellion many Confederate chiefs were imprisoned in its case¬ 
mates, the most noted of whom were Mason and Slidell, taken from the 
British mail-steamer “ Trent,” Nov. 8, 1861, by Capt. Wilkes, of the 
U. S. frigate u San Jacinto.” The British government made a peremptory 
demand, and President Lincoln finally surrendered these rebel commis¬ 
sioners, who went to Europe in January, 1862. 2 miles E. of Fort War¬ 

ren, on a small islet at the entrance of the harbor, stands the massive 
stone shaft of Boston Light. This structure occupies the site of the 
lighthouse established in 1715, and is furnished with a powerful revolving 
light nearly 100 ft. above the sea. To the N. is a cluster of rocky 
islets, and to the E. is the Bug Light, over Harding’s Ledge, where 6 well- 
braced, slender iron pillars uphold a small house, over which is a fixed 
red light. 

Hull (several good hotels), 

a small village under the lee of a high hill, crowned by a marine observa¬ 
tory, is much visited during the summer. The town of Hxill occupies the 
great natural breakwater which runs N. and W. from the South Shore, 
and guards the harbor. Its population is small, and its alertness in 
political campaigns, joined with its practical insignificance therein, do 
not fail to draw forth much good-humored jesting from the Bostonians. 
The road to the outer beach leads near Point Allerton (from Isaac Aller- 
ton, an adventurous Pilgrim, who cruised the coast of Maine in the barque 
“ White Angel ” for several years, early in the 17th century). The road 
now leads out on Nantasket Beach, a line of hard and surf-beaten white 
sand, 4 M. long. The bathing here is very fine, and driving is easy and 


24 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON, 


pleasant at low tide. At tlie south end of the beach are several hotels. 
(* Rockland House, — $ 4.50 per day, $ 25.00 per week, — a palatial edi¬ 
fice, \ M. from the landing; Atlantic House, 50 to 60 guests, — $3.00 
a day, $15.00 to $18.00 a week, — finely situated on a bluff near the 
water.) 

This part of the beach is distant § M. from the steamboat landing (12 
to 13 M. from Boston), and 2 M. from the South Shore Railroad (18 M. 
from Boston). Fine views are obtained from the bluffs; the harbor islands 
in the W., a broad expanse of ocean to the E., and at night 11 coast- 
lights may be seen, extending from Minot’s Ledge to Cape Ann. Parts 
of Boston, Lynn, Nahant, and Quincy may be seen on a clear day. 

Steamers for Hull, Nantasket, and Hingham leave Liver-pool Wharf, 
Boston, twice daily in summer. 

Hingham is a curious old village, near Nantasket, and S. of the har¬ 
bor, which was settled in 1635, and was often ravaged chiring the In¬ 
dian wars. Its first pastor came from Hingham, in England, and gave 
its name to the struggling colony. Situated amid fine coast-scenery, but 
12 M. (by water) from Boston, this “ Marine Old Hadley ” drew many 
visitors, and its large hotel, the Old Colony House (burned in Octo¬ 
ber, 1872) was well patronized. A quaint edifice on the main st. near 
the Railroad Station, built nearly square, with the roof • sloping steeply 
up on 4 sides to a balustraded platform, surmounted by a narrow-pointed 
belfry, is “the oldest church in Yankeedom.” It was built in 1681, 
for the Congregational Society of Hingham, who still use it. 


Behind the church is the * old graveyard, covering a finely terraced hill, and 
containing hundreds of ancient stones. In the southern part is a plain and grace¬ 
ful obelisk of granite, on which are inscribed the names of 76 soldiers of Hing- 
ham who died in the war for the Union. On the highest hill, on a mound 
surrounded by a circular earthwork, is a tall obelisk of granite “To the early 
settlers of Hingham.” Elsewhere rests, in an unmarked grave, John Albion An¬ 
drew, the great war-governor of Massachusetts, who, during the battle-years 
1881-65, did more than any other man to raise, equip, and forward to the field 
the immense levies of troops from this State. He was distinguished for fervid 
eloquence, great executive ability, and tender provision for the disabled soldiers. 
He died in 1867. Near the entrance to the cemetery is the tomb of Beniamin 
Lincoln, a major-general in the Continental Army, second in command of the 
Army of the North which captured Burgoyne, commander of the Army of the 
South, 1778-80, repulsed from Savannah and Stono Ferry. After enduriim a 
siege of 6 weeks at Charleston (spring of 1780), he was forced to surrender"to 
S;r Henry Clinton. Having been exchanged, he commanded the centre at York- 
n° 7 QQ-\ and iQw? Secretary War ’ 1781 ~ 84. He died at Hingham, his birthplace 

hingham 1718-87, delivered the famous sermon 
caded the Old Mans Calendar on his eighty-fifth birthday. W. A. Gav the 
artist, born at Hingham in 1821, was long a disciple of Troyon of Paris and is 
now celebrated for his fine paintings of coast-scenery and marine life. ’ 


Charlestown (Prescott House ) is a city of Middlesex .County, N of 
Boston, and united with it by 2 bridges over the Charles River. Its pop¬ 
ulation is 28,330. Soon after crossing the river a small square is reached. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 25 


where extensive domed buildings on the left were formerly occupied as 
the Waverley Hotel. Near this is the City Hall, in which is a fine library 
and reading-room. Main St., to the right, leads to the United States 
Navy Yard, covering over 100 acres, and separated from the city by a 
heavy stone-wall, 16 ft. high. A sea-wall extends along the water-front, 
broken only by a few wharves and a great dry-dock, built of hammered 
granite, 341 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, and costing nearly $ 700,000. 
Various construction-depots, magazines of naval stores, barracks, and 
work-shops are in the yard; also 4 large ship-houses, and a granite- 
built rope-walk, ^ M. long. In one of the ship-houses is the old line-of- 
battle-ship “ Virginia ” (designed for 120 guns), which has been on the 
stocks for nearly half a century. 

Charlestown has a handsome soldiers’ monument,— on a tall pedestal, a 
figure of America crowning representatives of the Army and Navy, who 
stand below her. In the house near Bunker Hill Monument is a fine 
statue of Gen. Joseph Warren, who was killed on the Hill. 

On Prison Point are the extensive buildings of the Massachusetts State 
prison, of solid granite and iron, finely ventilated and warmed, and sup¬ 
plied with chapels, school-rooms, hospitals, &c., in such manner as to 
make it a model prison. The convicts are kept busily employed in mak¬ 
ing furniture, upholstery, shoes, whips, stone and iron work, and are 
under perfect discipline. 

Not far from the prison is an ancient cemetery, where a simple and mas¬ 
sive granite shaft has been erected by Harvard alumni , to the memory of 
J ohn Harvard, the early benefactor of the University. 

The principal attraction of Charlestown is * Bunker Hill Monument, 
a lofty obelisk on the site of the battle of Breed’s Hill (1775). It is built 
of 90 courses of Quincy granite, is 221 ft. in height, and 30 ft. square 
at the base. A spiral flight of 295 steps, ranged around a hollow cone, 
leads to a chamber 11 ft. in diameter, with windows on each side. 
Above is the apex-stone, weighing 2J tons. (A small fee, 20 cts., is charged 
for admission. Books about the monument, &c., sold in the porter’s lodge). 

TJie * view from the top is glorious. From the S. E. window the 
Navy Yard is seen, with all its manifold activities, —“its ship-houses, 
dry-dock, rope-walk, and frigates. Beyond this is the confluence of the 
Charles and Mystic Rivers, and East Boston; above which is Fort War¬ 
ren at George’s Island at the mouth of the harbor. Forts Winthrop 
and Independence, and the archipelago of variously utilized islands which 
dot the harbor, all are visible from this point. From the S. W. 
window is seen the city of Boston, with Copp’s Hill nearest on the 1. 
and the spires and domes of its church and state buildings rising on all 
sides. The great network of the northern railroads and highways crosses 
Charles River below, while, beyond the city, the southern and western 
2 


2 6 Route, 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


roads emerge. Farther still, on the r., is S. Boston, and over it, 
Quincy, Dorchester, and the blue hills of Milton. Over Boston are Rox- 
bury and Brookline, and directly below are the houses of Charlestown. 
From the N. W. window, the State Prison, Cambridge, and Brighton, 
the McLean Asylum, the Harvard Observatory, the city of Somerville, 
Arlington, and Medford. It is said that, in very clear weather, with a 
strong glass, may be seen Mt. Wachusett (over Cambridge), and succes¬ 
sively to the r., Mt. Monadnock, Kearsarge, and the White Mts. in 
-New Hampshire. From the N. E., Everett, and Revere with its beach, 
the city of Chelsea, with the U. S. Marine Hospital, and, over it, the 
city of Lynn. Nahant runs into the sea to the r. 

The corner-stone of this stately monument was laid in 1825 by General La 
Fayette, on the fiftieth anniversary of the battle. It was completed in 1842, and 
dedicated on the sixty-eighth anniversary of the battle, in the presence of Presi¬ 
dent Tyler and his cabinet, and with an oration by Daniel Webster. In the upper 
chamber are two cannon, named “Hancock” and “Adams,” each inscribed, 
“ This is one of four cannons which constituted the Avhole train of field-artillery 
possessed by the British colonies of N orth America at the commencement of the 
war, on the 19th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a num¬ 
ber of citizens of Boston, Avere used in many engagements during the war. The 
other two, the property of the Government of Massachusetts, were taken by the 
enemy.” 

Battle of Bunker Hill. 

“ In their ragged regimentals 
Stood the old Continentals, 

Yielding not. 

When the grenadiers were lunging, 

And like hail fell the plunging 
Cannon-shot; 

Where the files 
Of the isles 

From the smoky night-encampment bore the banner of the rampant unicorn, 

And grummer, grummer, grummer, rolled the roll of the drummer through the morn.” 

After an impressive prayer by President Langdon, of Harvard College, on a 
starry night of June, 1775, Colonel Prescott led a thousand men to Bunker Hill. 
His force was composed of troops from Essex, Middlesex, and Connecticut, with 
Gridley’s artillery. His orders were to fortify the hill, but a council of officers of 
the detachment changed the plan, and they occupied Breed’s Hill, as much nearer 
Boston and more surely commanding the roads to the north. The work was 
commenced at midnight, under the supervision of General Gridley, an old veteran 
of the Louisbourg and Canadian wars, and by dawn they had completed a redoubt 
132 ft. square and 6 ft. high. The frigates in Charles River first saw it, and 
opened a tremendous fire, which awoke all Boston. The batteries on Copp’s Hill 
then opened fire, and at noon 2,000 picked men from the British garrison crossed 
the river. The New England flag (blue, with St. George’s Cross on the pine-tree 
emblem) was hoisted over the redoubt, and the 1st and 2d New Hampshire rein¬ 
forced the weary provincials. At 2 o’clock 2,000 more soldiers crossed from Bos¬ 
ton, and soon after, after a furious cannonade from Copp’s Hill and the fleet, the 
British column advanced. Gen. Putnam ordered the Americans to hold their 
fire until they could see the whites of the assailants’ eyes ; and 1500 silent and 
determined men waited till that appointed time, and then fired. “Whole platoons 
of the British regulars were laid upon the earth, like grass by the mower’s scythe. 
Other deadly volleys followed, and the enemy, disconcerted, broke and fled 
toward the water.” While they rallied, the Copp’s Hill guns showered hot shot 
and carcasses on Charlestown. 200 houses soon were burning, and under cover of 
dense masses of smoke the royal forces advanced again. The volley at short 
range, the carnage, and the flight of the British, was repeated. The American 
ammunition was now exhausted, the presence of floating batteries raking Charles- 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 27 


town Neck prevented either reinforcements or fresh supplies from reaching them ; 
and the British, heavily reinforced, and maddened by their losses, advanced a 
third time. The outworks, swept by the shot from the fleet, were abandoned, and 
when the grenadiers rose upon the parapet of the redoubt, they were received 
by a shower of stones, and confronted by men with clubbed muskets. Soon Put¬ 
nam ordered a retreat, which was covered admirably by the troops of New Hamp¬ 
shire and Connecticut. But the reserves on Bunker Hill, the rear-guard, and the 
shattered garrison from Breed’s Hill, were unequal to further effort, and there 
ensued a general debandade across the cannon-swept Charlestown Neck. The day 
was ended ; and although Howe soon moved the bulk of his army on these hills, 
which he strongly fortified, no further combats were seen here. In the battle of 
the 17th of June, the Americans lost 115 killed, 305 wounded, and 30 prisoners ; 
the British lost 226 killed, 828 wounded (Gage’s report). 400 houses were burnt 
in Charlestown, and 5 cannon were taken on Bunker Hill. During the retreat 
from the redoubt, Putnam swore frightfully at his xnen, and after the war, sin¬ 
cerely confessing it to the church of which he was a member, he added, “ It was 
almost enough to make an angel swear, to see the cowards refuse to secure a vic¬ 
tory so nearly won.” Among the last to leave the hill was Warren, and ere he 
had gone far he was killed by a shot in the head. Joseph Warren, born Roxbury, 
1740, was the head of the medical profession in Boston, and a wise and patriotic 
leader of the people. He was the President of the Provincial Congress, a major- 
general of the army, and Grand Master of the Masonic Order in America. “He 
fell with a numerous hand of kindred spirits — the gray-haired veteran, the strip¬ 
ling in the flower of youth — who had stood side by side on that dreadful day, 
and fell together - , like the beauty of Israel in their high places.” — Everett. 

Chelsea (Winnisimmet), (City Hotel), a city of 18,547 inhabitants, is 
connected with Boston by a steam ferry (If M.), and with Charlestown 
by a long bridge over the Mystic River. The Naval Hospital and the U. 
S. Marine Hospital, the latter a large and stately building, are here. Near 
the Railroad Station is a Soldiers’ Monument, — a shaft of granite with a 
statue of a soldier standing at ease upon its summit. Woodlawn Ceme¬ 
tery is about 2 M. from the city, amt is approached by a graceful ave¬ 
nue, leading through a lofty Gothic gateway. The Rock Tower, to the 
right, is a rude pile of boulders, 78 ft. in diameter and 30 ft. high, 
from which a pretty view is obtained. Netherwood and'Woodside Aves. 
form beautiful vistas, with the quiet grace of American cemeteries on 
every hand. Netherwood Pond, the views from Chapel and Elm Hills, 
and the curious Ginko trees, are worthy of attention. 

Chelsea (Revere) Beach. 

Horse-cars from Boston hourly in summer. The Eastern Railroad runs near 
the shore, with stations at Revere (If M. off) and Oak Grove (4 M.). Hotels. 
Atlantic House and several smaller, near the horse-car station ; Revere House, 
f M. north ; Ocean House, on Pine Point, 2 M. north of horse-car station. 

Revere Beach is about 5 M. from Boston, and is -much visited by 
the citizens on Sundays and holidays. It is a wide, smooth, hard, sandy 
shore, 3 M. long, well adapted for driving or walking. Being shel¬ 
tered by Nahant, which lies about 5 M. off shore, and by Winthrop 
Bluffs on the south, it has but a moderate surf. Pine Point, its northern 
extremity, faces the city of Lynn and the openings of Saugus River into 
Lynn Harbor. 


28 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Lexington and Concord. 

The former village is reached by trains on the Lexington Branch Railroad, from 
the Boston and Lowell Depot, in 40 to 50 minutes. By the fall of 1873 the rail¬ 
road will probably be extended to Concord. At present, Concord is reached by 
the trains of the Fitchburg Railroad in 1 hr. 

Lexington (Monument House ), a quiet and pretty village 12 to 15 
M. N. W. of Boston, is built on one long street, terminating on the 
west in a broad green, on which is a plain monument, more solid than 
graceful, in memory of 8 men killed here during the battle. 

Concord (Middlesex Hotel), near the tranquil Concord River, and 
the junction of the Assabet and Sudbury Rivers (so-called), is a hand¬ 
some village of about 2,500 inhabitants, and about 20 M. from Boston. 
In 1635 Peter Bulkley, of St. John’s College, Cambridge, and 21 years 
rector of Odell, was silenced by Archbishop Laud, and fled to America. 
In 1636 he purchased of the Indians a tract of land at Musketaquid, and 
founded the town and church of Concord, so-named from the peaceful 
manner of its acquisition. Bulkley wrote some Latin poems and Puritan 
theological theses, and “ was as remarkable for benevolence and kind deal¬ 
ing as for strict virtue. ” 

But it is during the present century that the lives of three of the foremost 
literary men of America have made Concord famous. Henry D. Thoreau (H. 
U., 1827), an eccentric yet profound scholar and naturalist, in 1845 built 
himself a hut on the shores of the sequestered Walden Pond (1 M. S. E. of 
the village), where he led a recluse life, raising a few vegetables, and occasion¬ 
ally surveying or carpentering to get money for his slight expenses. He never 
voted, never entered a church, never paid a tax. Profoundly skilled in classic 
and Oriental literature, and an ardent naturalist, his chief delight was to make 
long pedestrian excursions to the forests and lakes and ocean-shores of New 
England. Of himself he said, “ I am as unfit for any practical purpose as gossa¬ 
mer is for ship-timber.” “ Thoreau dedicated his genius, with such entire love, to 
the fields, hills, and waters of his native town, that he made them known and in¬ 
teresting to all. He grew to be revered and admired by his townsmen, who had 
at first known him only as an oddity.” — Emerson. He died in 1862, leaving his 
great work unfinished, and his only remains are several quaint and charming 
books of travel. 

Ralph Waldo Emerson (H. U., 1821), “the sage of Concord,” or, as Fredrika 
Bremer calls him, “ the Sphinx in Concord,” is the head of the school of 
transcendental philosophy in America and in the world. Descended from 
seven generations of ministers, and himself sometime a minister, in early life 
he joined, and since has led, the most advanced and refined school of modern 
transcendental philosophy. His writings are “ distinguished for a singular union 
of poetic imagination with practical acuteness,” and also by a remarkable pungency 
and compressed :oroe. During his visits to Europe much honor has been shown 
him, and many of the greatest minds of the century have visited “the pretty little 
idyllian city of Concord ” (Bremer) to hold interviews with him. Thoreau, G. W. 
Curtis, in his residence at Concord in 1844-45, and Hawthorne have been his 
friends at home. (The old Emerson homestead was burnt, July 24, 1872, shortly 
after which the philosopher went to Europe for a long absence.) 

Nathaniel Hawthorne (Bowdoin College, 1825), whose exquisite prose composi¬ 
tion is world-renowned, lived at Concord in 1843'-46, and here wrote the “ Mosses 
from an Old Manse.” (See Salem, Mass.) 

The Battle of Concord and Lexington. 

At midnight, April 18, 1775, General Gage sent 800 grenadiers and light infantry 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 29 


to destroy the military stores collected by the Americans at Concord. “ At first 
the whole country appeared buried in a general sleep, .... till the deep tones 
of a distant church-bell came sweeping down the valley in which they marched, 

ringing peal on peal, in the quick, spirit-stirring sounds of an alarm.Bell 

began to answer bell in every direction, .... fires blazed along the heights, the 
bellowing of the conchs and horns mingled with the rattling of the muskets and 
the various tones of the bells ” (Cooper), and when the troops deployed on Lexing¬ 
ton Green, at dawn, 100 militia men confronted them. “ Disperse, ye rebels, 
throw down your arms, and disperse ! ” cried the British commander, Pitcairn. A 
volley from the light infantry broke the line which refused to obey Pitcairn’s or¬ 
der, and under the smoke of the first shots of the War of Independence eight 
Americans lay dead on the green. Now by a rapid march the invaders occupied 
Concord, 6 M. distant, and destroyed such of the military stores as had not 
been removed. Meanwhile, 400 minute-men had gathered near the north bridge, 
1 M. from the Common, and soon they attacked and drove away 3 companies 
of light infantry detailed to guard it, upon which the retreat to Boston was 
ordered. All military order among the provincials was at an end ; minute-men 
were collecting from all points ; from every house, barn, and stone-wall guns 
were fired with sure aim ; and the red uniforms of dead and wounded regulars 
strewed the long road. \ M. E. of Lexington church, the remnant of the de¬ 
tachment was reinforced by Lord Percy, with 3 regiments, 2 divisions of marines, 
and a battery. The pitiless provincials worried them until they reached Prospect 
Hill, in Cambridge, where 700 men of Essex, with the militia of Dorchester and 
Roxbury, stopped, and held the flower of the British army until Percy’s artil¬ 
lery drove them from the field, and the noble Northumbrian led his shattered 
columns on Bunker Hill, under protection of the fleet. On this memorable day, 
the royal forces lost 65 killed, 180 wounded, and 28 prisoners ; while the Americans 
lost 59 killed, 39 wounded, and 5 missing. 

Cambridge. 

W. of Boston (liorse-cars from Bowdoin Sq.) is the ancient academic 
city of Cambridge, on the Charles River. About 3J M. from Boston are 
the spacious grounds and buildings of Harvard University. 

Cambridge was settled shortly after Boston, under the name of Newtown. In 
1636, the legislature of Massachusetts (then, and occasionally now, called the 
General Court) voted £ 400 for the establishment of a school here. In 1638 John 
Harvard, the young pastor of Charlestown (from Emanuel College, in Old Cam¬ 
bridge,), died, leaving to the young school his library and about £ 800 in money. 
Then the General Court advanced the school into a college, and named it Harvard, 
changing also the name Newtown into Cambridge, in memory of the old univer¬ 
sity town where, and especially at Emanuel College, so many of the founders of 
the new State had studied. In 1640 Charlestown Ferry was made an appanage 
of the College ; in 1642 its first class graduated ; and in 1650 the “ President and 
Fellows of Harvard College ” were incorporated. Endowments and gifts now 
flowed in from the province and its citizens, and the young college became the 
pride of New England. In 1696, of 121 clergymen in the eleven counties nearest 
to Cambridge, 104 were graduates of Harvard. Many of the political leaders of 
the War of Independence were educated here, — Samuel Adams (class of 1740), 
James Otis (1743), Artemas Ward, first commander of the army (1748), John Han¬ 
cock (1754), Joseph Warren (1759). In May, 1769, on the occupation of Boston 
by royal troops, the legislature refused to sit “ with British cannon pointing at 
their "doors,” so they adjourned to the college buildings. In 1775 the students 
were sent home, and the classic halls were turned into barracks for the Continen¬ 
tal soldiers. The library and apparatus were sent to Andover and Concord. The 
headquarters of the American army of investment was near the College, and the 
army numbered 16,000 men in June, 1775. Of these, 11,500 were from Massachu¬ 
setts, 2,300 from Connecticut, 1,200 from New Hampshire, and 1,000 from Rhode 
Island. The left wing, under Ward, consisting of 15 Massachusetts regiments and 
Gridley’s artillery, lay at Cambridge. Later, Knox brought 55 cannon from the 
Lake Forts, and the New York volunteers and Morgan’s Virginia riflemen joined 






30 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


the camp. The 10,000 royal troops in Boston were environed by 20 miles of can¬ 
tonments, stretching from the Mystic River to Roxbury. Thomas, with 4,000 
Massachusetts troops, and 4 companies of artillery, held the Roxbury lines ; the 
Rhode Island men were at Jamaica Plain with Spencer’s Connecticut regiment. 
The New Hampshire brigade was at Medford, and Putnam, with a Connecticut 
brigade, held Charlestown Neck and picketted Bunker Hill. The siege was 
hardly over, and the College in order once more, when the great captive army o. 
Burgoynewas led to Cambridge (Nov. 19, 1777). The government ordered the 
college to be vacated, for the accommodation of the British and Hessian officers. 
But the collegiate authorities, feeling that enough had already been sacrificed by 
them in the cause of freedom, sent in such a spirited protest that the order was 
reconsidered, and the prisoners encamped on Winter and Prospect Hills until 
1779, when they were sent to Charlottesville, Virginia. 

In 1639 the first New England printing-press was set up here, and for its 
first works printed the “Freeman’s Oath,” “The New England Alma¬ 
nac,” and the “Bay Psalm Book.” At present the vast University and 
Riverside Presses turn out hundreds of thousands of volumes yearly. 

Margaret Fuller, Countess D’Ossoli, was bom at Cambridge, 1810. A fine 
linguist and conversationalist, she became an enthusiastic transcendentalist, and, 
after writing several books, and spending some time in Europe, she married Count 
d’Ossoli, but was wrecked and lost on the Fire Island coast, returning, in 1850. 

Oliver Wendell Holmes was born at Cambridge, 1809. A skilful physician, lec¬ 
turer, and microscopist, he has been Professor of Anatomy and Physiology in 
Harvard University since 1847, and has found time to write many pleasant essays 
and humorous poems, besides two or three novels and numerous medical lectures 
and dissertations. 

James Russell Lowell was born at Cambridge, in 1819. After writing several 
volumes of poetry, and spending some years in Europe, he returned, and succeeded 
Mr. Longfellow as Professor of Modern Languages, &c., in Harvard University. 
He has published “The Biglow Papers ” (two series),—a political satire in the 
New England vernacular ; “ The Cathedral,” and “ Under the Willows,” his later 
poems ; and several volpmes of prose. 

F. H. Hedge, the Unitarian theologian, Alfred Lee, Bishop of Delaware, and 
Rear-Admiral Charles H. Poor, were born in Cambridge. 

“ Harvard College was founded at Cambridge only ninety years later than the 
greatest and wealthiest college of our Cambridge in Old England. Puritan Har¬ 
vard is the sister rather than the daughter of our own Puritan Emanuel. Harvard 
himself, and Dunster, the first President of Harvard, were among the earliest of 
the scholars of Emanuel. . . . Our English universities have not about them the 
classic repose, the air of study, which belongs to Cambridge, Massachusetts; our 
Cambridge comes nearest to her daughter town, but even the English Cambridge 
has a breathing street or two, and a weekly market-day, while Cambridge in New 
England is one great academic grove, buried in a philosophic calm, which our 
universities cannot rival as long as men resort to them for other purposes than 
work.” — Sir Charles Dilke. 

Among the most distinguished of the New-England-born alumni of Harvard 
may be named. Increase Mather (class of 165(3), Cotton Mather (1678), John Adams, 
second President of the United States (1755), John Quincy Adams, his son, sixth 
President of the United States (1787), Fisher Ames (1774), W. E. Channing (1798), 
Edward Everett (1811), W. H. Prescott (1814), Jared Sparks and J. G. Palfrey (1815), 
Caleb Cushing and George Bancroft (1S17), Ralph Waldo Emerson (1821), C. F. 
Adams (1825), O. W. Holmes (1829), Charles Sumner (1S30), Wendell Phillips and 
J. L. Motley (1831), H. W. Bellows (1832), R. H. Dana, Jr., and H. D. Tlioreau • 
(1837), J. R. Lowell (1838), E. E. Hale (1839). 

The buildings of the University are named generally in honor of its 
benefactors. The small brick building on the corner near the horse-car 
station contains the Law Library (13,000 volumes) embracing the stand¬ 
ard works on this subject by American, English, French, and German 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 31 


■writers. The law-hall and the professorship were founded by Nathan 
Dane, an eminent Essex County jurist. The large and ornate edifice next 
to Dane Hall is known as Matthews Hall. Beyond this, and at right 
angles with it, is Massachusetts Hall, an ancient building which has been 
changed into two large rooms, the lower of which is occupied as a read¬ 
ing-room, and is surrounded by 60 to 70 portraits of notable New Eng¬ 
landers of the last century, among which are Samuel Dexter, Frothing- 
ham; John Quincy Adams, Fisher Ames, Stuart; Michael Boylston, 
Thomas Boylston, President Holyoke, and John Adams, Copley. 

John Singleton Copley, the best of American portrait-painters, was bom at 
Boston, 1737, studied at Rome, resided at London 1775-1813. His historical 
paintings, of which “ The Death of the Earl of Chatham ” was the most famous, 
made him a Royal Academician in 1783. His son was made Lord Lyndhurst. 

It is singular that none of Washington Allston’s pictures are here. This artist, 
who was called “the American Titian,” and was famous for richly colored pictures 
on religious subjects, after spending 15 years in Europe, established his studio 
in Cambridge in 1825, and here remained until his death in 1843. He was a South 
Carolinian. 

Beyond Massachusetts Hall is Harvard Hall, with its sober ornaments 
and belfry, and then Hollis and Stoughton Halls, between which, and 
nearer the street is the quaint little edifice (said to have been built by 
Lady Holden’s bounty) which was long used as a chapel, and was built 
early in the 18th century. Across the upper end of the quadrangle 
stretches the plain old Holworthy Hall, back of which is the Lawrence 
Scientific School. Turning now on the other side, the first building is 
the new, lofty, and ornate Thayer Hall, behind which is the romanesque 
Appleton Chapel. Beyond Thayer is the simple and substantial Uni¬ 
versity Hall, built of granite, and next comes the modem and Mansard- 
roofed Weld Hall. Uhiversity Hall is the seat of the University gov¬ 
ernment, which consists of the President and six Fellows, with a second 
branch (Board of Overseers) elected by the alumni. The system of 
elective studies and of special series of lectures is superseding the old 
rigid course and text-book plan, and Harvard is accepting the style, as 
well as gaining the power, of the German universities. There are about 
1,200 men in the various departments of study, with 45 professors and 
many tutors, &c. Four years’ study procures the degree of B. A.; three 
years covers the courses in the Divinity and Medical Schools, and two 
years in the Law School. Beyond Weld Hall the fourth side of the quad¬ 
rangle is occupied by the noble Boylston Hall (of granite, with several 
collections inside), and the modern Gray Hall. Opposite the wooden 
Wadsworth Hall is the Holyoke House (pertaining to the college) and 
nearly opposite Massachusetts Hall is the First Church, with its venerable 
graveyard. Gore Hall, beyond the quadrangle, contains the University 
Library. It is a neat building of Quincy granite, in the form of a Latin 
Cross v and in the 14th-century Gothic style, said also to be a sober copy 
of King’s College Chapel, at Old Cambridge. 


32 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Inside there are 10 columns on each side of a nave 112 ft. long, with a groined 
roof 35 ft. high. About 130,000 volumes are kept in this hall, besides which the 
University has about 70,000 volumes in 8 other libraries. In glas's cases, through¬ 
out the hall, are kept many literary curiosities : a MS. Ovid of the 14th century ; 
letters of Washington ; Aristotle, in black-letter Latin MS. ; ancient Greek MSS. 
of Hippocrates, Gregory Nazianzen, &c., with Evangelisteries, Psalters, &c. ; old 
Hebrew MS. of Esther (in roll) ; the Gospels in Latin, 8th century (oldest MS. in 
America); illuminated Latin missals ; MS. Koran; Sanscrit and Siamese books . 
in leaves ; 3 beautiful Persian MSS. on silk paper; book printed in Mexico City, 
1566; Rale’s Dictionary of the Abenaki language, in his own writing; Eliot’s 
Indian Bible ; Bay Psalm-Book (1640), first book printed in America, north of 
Mexico ; medals, relics, autographs, &c. Busts of distinguished men surround 
the hall. 

Nearly in line with Gore Hall is Appleton Chapel, recently injured by 
fire. The most conspicuous object'about the square is the immense tower 
of the * Memorial Hall, a stately edifice now building, whose simple 
and massive architecture contrasts strongly with the Renaissance style 
of the other new buildings. A beautiful little cloister, at one end of the 
Memorial Hall, seems' like a token from Old Cambridge. Within this 
noble building are to be held the Commencement exercises and alumni 
dinners. The Hall is being erected by the alumni as a memorial to those 
of their number who fell in the War for the Union. Near by, on a 
so-called Delta, is the gymnasium, an octagonal structure, while the 
Lawrence Scientific School is opposite Holworthy Hall. Beyond Memo¬ 
rial Hall are the buildings occupied by the Zoological and other museums, 
in the vicinity of Divinity Hall, the seat of the Unitarian Theological 
School and Library. The Episcopal Divinity School is near the beautiful 
little church of St. John. The Observatory and Botanical Gardens are 
out on Garden St., beyond the State Arsenal. In front of the colleges, 
on the Green, is a monument, erected by the City, in memory of 339 
officers and men of Cambridge who died in the War for the Union. Far¬ 
ther on is the new and elegant Shepard Memorial Church, erected by the 
Congregationalists in honor of Thomas Shepard, an Emanuel College di¬ 
vine, who was pastor at Cambridge from 1635 to 1649, and was one of the 
founders and patrons of the college. “ Its location at Cambridge was 
due to him.” In front of the church is the Washington Elm, probably 
300 years old. Near it the old Indian councils took place, and, at a later 
day, the town-meetings, and under its foliage, July 3, 1775, Washington 
assumed command of the armies of America. 

A large, old-style house, back from the street, and nearly opposite Gore Hall, is 
called the “Bishop’s Palace.” It was built in 1761-65 by East Apthorp, an 
Anglican Bostonian, educated at Old Cambridge, who was sent here as a mission¬ 
ary, and hoped to be appointed Bishop of New England. But the hostility of the 
Puritan divines and people was so marked, that he returned to England, and was 
given a stall in St. Paul’s. In 1777, Burgoyne occupied the house as headquarters 
of the captive Anglo-Hessian army. Near Brattle St. is the house where 
Baron Riedesel, commander of the division of Brunswiokers, was quartered. The 
Baroness, with a diamond, cut her autograph here on a window-pane, which is 
still preserved. Near Brattle St., on the right, is a stately old colonial' mansion, 






See page 20, 









































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































THE PRINCIPAL PORTIONS OP THE CEMETERY. 


1. Entrance. 

2. Chapel. 

3. Spruce Avenue. 

4. Public Lot. 

5. Laurel Hill. 

6. Walnut Avenue. 

7. Mountain Avenue. 

8. Mount Auburn Tower. 

9. Dell Path. 

10. Pine Hill. 

11. Central Square. 

12. Cedar Hill. 

13. Harvard Hill. 


14. Juniper Hill. 

15. Temple Hill. 

16. Rosemary Path. 

17. Jasmine Path. 

18. Chestnut Avenue. 

19. Poplar Avenue. 

20. Auburn Lake. 

21. Lime Avenue. 

22. Larch Avenue. 

23. Halcyon Lake. 

24. Forest Pond. 

25. Central Avenue. 

26. Road to Fresh Pond 


Brattle Streep 


































ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 33 


above two terraces, surrounded by broad lawns and fine elms. Built about the 
middle of the last century, the house was deserted by its Loyalist owner at the 
outbreak of 1775, and then occupied by Washington as headquarters. Here 
through the long winter of the siege, Lady Washington often held receptions’ 
This noble estate is now owned by the poet Longfellow. 

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, born in Portland, 1807 (Bowdoin College, 1825) 
spent four years (1826-30) in Europe, and then was Professor of Modern Languages 
at Harvard University (1835-54). Besides several prose romances and many 
short poems of great power, he has published “Evangeline” (1847,) “The Golden 
Legend ” (1851), “ Hiawatha ” (1855), a translation of Dante’s “ Divina Commedia,” 
3 vols. (1867-70), “The Divine Tragedy” (1871), and “Tales of a Wayside Inn,” 
first (1863) and second series. Mr. Longfellow is perhaps the most popular of 
American poets, and is distinguished as a faithful translator, an original and pro¬ 
foundly perceptive poet, and an admirer of the picturesque features in medieval 
European history. 


Mount Auburn. 

(Horse-cars from Harvard Square in ^ M. 4 M. distant from Boston.) 

A large tract of forest-covered and romantic hills on the banks of the 
Charles had long formed a favorite ramble for the students of Harvard, 
until, in 1831, it was purchased by the Horticultural Society, and a portion 
of it consecrated for a cemetery, with imposing ceremonies. This was 
the pioneer of the large rural cemeteries of America, and is but a few years 
younger than Pere la Chaise, at Paris. The whole tract of land was soon 
bought in from the Horticultural Society, and large additions have since 
been made, until now it covers 125 acres. The name “Sweet Auburn," 
which the Harvard men had bestowed upon it, was changed to Mount 
Auburn. “ This tract is beautifully undulating in its surface, containing 
a number of bold eminences, steep acclivities, and deep, shadowy valleys,” 
and is laid out with broad, curving avenues intersected by foot-paths. 
The emblematic iron fence which bounds the front is provided with a mas¬ 
sive granite entrance-gate of Egyptian architecture, 60 ft. long and 25 ft. 
high, on whose outside is carved, “ Then shall the dust return to the earth 
as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it.” From the 
gate Central Ave. runs to Pine Hill, which overhangs Consecration Dell. 
The chapel, not far from the gate, on a hill to the r., is a handsome 
Gothic edifice, abounding in pinnacles, and furnished with stained glass 
windows from Edinburgh. Inside the chapel are four noble * statues : 
Judge Story, by IF. IF. Story ; John Winthrop, the first colonial gover¬ 
nor, by R. S. Greenough ; James Otis, the leader of the first aggressions 
against British misrule, by Crawford; and John Adams, representing 
the revolutionary and subsequent constitutional era, by Randolph Rogers. 
On Central Ave. is a fine statue of Hosea Ballou, an eminent Univer- 
salist divine, of Boston, not far from the statue (in a sitting posture) of 
Dr. Bowditch, the mathematician and nautical writer. Fronting the 
chapel is a majestic * memorial work (by Milmore) representing a colos¬ 
sal lion couchant with a calm and heroic female head. The design is 
taken from a work executed in the highest perfection of Egyptian art, 
2 * c 


34 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


and is a fine personification of the ancient idea of the mystic “ one who 
outlooks stars and dreams o’er graves. ” Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first person buried in the cemetery, and her humble 
monument is still pointed out. Near the end of Central Ave. is the 
monument to John Murray, the founder of Universalism in America. 
Spurzheim is buried near the Bowditch monument. Near the Ballou 
statue on Central Ave. is the monument erected to W. F. Harnden, 
founder of the express-business, by the express-companies of the United 
States. Under a canopy of granite is a large stone safe with bas-reliefs, 
supported on bronze claws, alongside of which a marble watch-dog lies. 
On Mount Auburn, the highest point of the cemetery, stands a massive 
and graceful granite tower, from whose top an extensive * view is enjoyed. 
The rich valley of the Charles is in full sight, from the villa-covered heights 
of Watertown to the widenings which are lined by the palaces on the 
Back Bay at Boston. The rural roads of Brookline are in the S., and 
over and beyond them rise the high hills of Milton. In the E. is Cam¬ 
bridge and the ancient walls of Harvard University, while a succession 
of bright villages stud the country to the N. and W. 

For the- rest, the tranquil and shaded walks of the cemetery are lined 
with thousands of monuments, of every form and style,, from simple tab¬ 
lets to costly and beautiful statues. Pretty lakelets diversify the surface 
of the dells, and platoons of obelisks rise along the hills. The gateway, 
the chapel, sphinx, and tower, are the principal objects to be seen. 
Hours may be spent in pleasant rambling through the other avenues, 
passing the graves of scores of local celebrities and magnates of Massa¬ 
chusetts. If the visitor wishes to know how to do Mount Auburn minute¬ 
ly, “ Dearborn’s Guide ” may be bought at the gate. 

N. of Mount Auburn about f M., is Fresh Pond, a pretty sheet of blue 
water, winding under the shadow of wooded hills, with villages on its 
banks. The Fresh Pond Hotel is favorably situated on its shore. 2 to 
3 M. N. is Spy Pond (pleasant hotel), the ice from whose clear and spark¬ 
ling waters is much used in Boston during the summer heats. S. W. 
of Mount Auburn, on the banks of the Charles, is the United States Arse¬ 
nal, covering 40 acres, where great amounts of munitions of war are stored. 
About 1 M. beyond, also on the river, is the village of Watertown, 8 M. 
from Boston, on the Fitchburg Railroad. Early in the 17th century a 
nomadic church from this place founded Wethersfield, Conn. In 1643 
Massachusetts sent four Puritan missionaries to convert Anglican Vir¬ 
ginia. The Cavaliers drove them off, and Knowles, the Watertown pas¬ 
tor, went to England, and preached in Bristol Cathedral several years. 
John Sherman, pastor here 1647-85, bears on his tombstone. 


“In Sherman’s lowly grave are lain 
The heart of Paul, and Euclid’s brain.’ 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 35 


Harriet G. Hosmer, the foremost of female sculptors, wa 3 bora at Watertown 
in 1830. After long anatomical studies, she went to Rome in 1852, and has since 
lived there. Most of her works are retained in Italy and England. Her most re¬ 
markable pieces are “Zenobia in Chains,” “The Sleeping Faun,” “Puck,” and 
“Beatrice Cenci.” 

S. of Watertown is the town of Newton, with several villages, in¬ 
habited mostly by men doing business in Boston. Brighton ( Cattle-Fair 
Hotel, Brighton Hotel, Riverside, &c.), E. of Newton, has the largest 
cattle-market in New England. The day of. market is Wednesday, when 
Brighton presents a lively sight. 

S. E. of Brighton is the town of Brookline, famous for the suburban 
residences of Boston merchants. Near the station of the New York and 
New England Railroad is the principal village, with the ornate and attrac¬ 
tive stone town-house, near which is a neat public-library building. Within 
this town is Brookline Reservoir, with a capacity of 120,000,000 gallons of 
water. Here terminates the long and sinuous brick culvert, running from 
Lake Cochituate, in Natick, which is here supplemented by iron mains, 
which carry the water into Boston. 1 M. distant is the great Chest¬ 
nut Hill Reservoir (5 M. from Boston City Hall), with a capacity of 
800,000,000 gallons. The most popular drive about Boston is that to 
and around Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Jamaica Pond, near the village 
of Jamaica Plain, and E. of Brookline, gave the first water-supply to 
Boston. From 1795 to 1840 it was carried through the city in hollow 
pine logs. In 1851 this was stopped, and now villas and immense ice¬ 
houses line the shores. In Jamaica Plain (where encamped the Rhode 
Island forces, the best equipped and disciplined in the army, in 1775-76), 
is a fine monument to the soldiers of West Roxbury who were killed, in 
the War for the Union. § M. from this village is the large cemetery 
of Forest Hills. (Horse-cars to and from Boston, also Providence 
Railroad.) It is entered by a large and elegant turreted Gothic gate¬ 
way of stone, bearing the inscriptions, “ I am the Resurrection and the 
Life,” and, “ He that keepeth thee will not slumber.” Near the gateway 
to the 1. is the finest receiving-tomb in New England, with a Gothic 
portico of granite, of imposing size and form. On Mount Warren Gen. 
Joseph Warren is buried ; on Mount Dearborn, Gen. H. A. S. Dearborn. 
This cemetery is larger and plainer than Mount Auburn, and is mainly 
notable for its air of rustic naturalness. Consecration Hill commands a 
fine view of the hills of Milton and the fair Lake Hibiscus. In the S. 
part is a monument “ Erected by the City of Roxbury in honor of her 
soldiers who died for their country in the Rebellion of 1861 to ’65.” A 
bronze soldier, of heroic size, stands at ease on a granite pedestal, and on the 
inner granite tablets of the wall, about the lot, are the names of many sol¬ 
diers in letters of gold. 1 M. from Forest Hills, and a like distance 
from Mattapan, on the New York & New England Railroad, is the cemetery 




36 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


of Mount Hope. This is in Dorchester, an ancient town which was united 
with Boston in 1870. Over its extensive area (which is bounded on one 
side by the Bay) are scattered several villages and hundreds of country 
residences. The natural scenery is picturesque, and is diversified by hills 
and forests. At Meeting-House Hill is the old church, with a soldier’s 
monument on the green before it. At Grove Hall (horse-cars from the Tre- 
mont House or Temple PL), amid ample grounds, are the handsome 
buildings of the Consumptives’ Home, an institution founded by Dr. 
C hill is in 1862, to receive and relieve persons afflicted with the scourge of 
New England. It is supported (like the Bristol Orphanage), by unso¬ 
licited donations in answer to prayer to the Divine Guardian, and the 
invalids are “freely received in the name of the Lord.” 

Roxbury (Norfolk House, a large and comfortable old hotel, on Eliot 
Square). Horse-cars from Park-St. Church to Eliot Sq., &c. 

Roxbury, an ancient city, almost coeval with Boston, was united with 
that city in 1868. In 1775 the Rhode Island forces built here that power¬ 
ful fort which Washington pronounced the best in the siege-lines, and 
which seriously galled the Royalists in Boston. Upon the hill occupied 
by this fort is now the stand-pipe of the water-works, where the Cochi- 
tuate water is forced up through a boiler-iron tube to a height of 240 ft. 
above tide-marsh level, and hence supplies the highest floors in the city. 
The tower is a lofty and very graceful structure, with a fine view from the 
summit, which, however, is usually closed. Eliot Sq. is the central point 
in Roxbury, and here is the building of the first (Unitarian) church, the 
society to which Eliot preached in the Puritan era. For the rest, the 
hilly streets of Roxbury are made beautiful by the villas of the city 
merchants and by several pretty churches, of which the venerable St. 
James’ Church, with its massive Saxon tower, is most attractive. 

Besides General Warren, who died on Bunker Hill, there were also horn at Rox¬ 
bury Major-General Heath, of the Continental Army, and Joseph Dudley, gov¬ 
ernor of Massachusetts, 1702-15, while Thomas Dudley, long time governor, and 
major-general between 1630-53, had his estates and mansion here. 

John Eliot, “the Apostle to'the Indians,” was pastor of the church in “Rocks- 
bury ” from 1632 to 1690. Firmly believing that the Indians were descended from 
the ten lost tribes of Israel, he made every effort for their conversion. Acquiring 
their language, he translated into it the Bible (1663), catechism, Baxter’s Call, &c., 
and preached frequently to those villages of “praying Indians which he estab¬ 
lished and protected through the war of 1675 - 76. Utterly improvident in his 
charities, he would sometimes give away his whole salary on the day of its re¬ 
ceipt, and it was only by Mrs. Eliot’s care and economy that his four sons were 
educated at Harvard, and were ranked afterwards ‘ with the best preachers of their 
generation.’ ” When the old hero had become helpless, the church continued his 
salary several years, until his death. 


3. Boston to Few York. 

Via Old Colony Railroad and Fall River steamers in 10 to 12 hrs., leaving Bos¬ 
ton at 4.30 or 5.30 P. M. Fare, $5. The railroad station is on the corner of 
Kneeland and South Sts. (PI. 36). 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3, 37 

The train soon crosses Fort Point Channel, and runs through S. Bos¬ 
ton and Dorchester. 

Until Neponset (5 M. out) is passed, the road runs through the south¬ 
ern villages of the Dorchester district of Boston. The Neponset River is 
crossed, and then comes Quincy (Hancock House, $ 2), a large agricultural 
town, nmch of whose land is in the estates of the illustrious families of 
Adams and Quincy. In the Adams Temple, a plain granite church oppo¬ 
site the fine town-hall, are monuments to the Adamses, while beneath the 
church the two Presidents of that name are buried. A handsome granite 
shaft, with appropriate symbols, was raised in 1868 in memory of 113 
soldiers of Quincy who died in the War for the Union. About ^ M. from 
the Hancock House is the plain old mansion of the Adams family, the 
Quincy House being 1 M. beyond. Squantum Point (Old Squantum House), 
between Quincy and Dorchester Bays, was the home of Cliickatabut, 
Sachem of Massachusetts, and of Squantum, the firm friend of the Pil¬ 
grims, who, when dying, desired Governor Bradford to pray for him that 
he might go to the Englishman’s God in heaven.” Squantum Point is con¬ 
nected with Boston by steamers (in summer), and is famous for its chow¬ 
ders, reviving the memory of the olden time when, for scores of years, the 
Bostonians met here annually for a “ Pilgrim Feast.” Hough’s Neck 
{Great Hill House), not far from Quincy, projects into Boston Harbor, be¬ 
tween Quincy and Weymouth Bays. W. of the village are the high hills 
of Quincy and Milton, whence is obtained that excellent sienitic granite 
which is used for permanent works in nearly every American city. This 
range is several miles long and, in places, 600 ft. high, and is nearly a 
solid mass of pure granite. The first American railway was operated here 
in 1826, when horses drew the stone on cars over wide wooden tram-ways, 
from the quarry to the river (3 M.). Each horse drew 20 tons of granite 
besides the car. 

In 1844, 100,000 tons were quarried here by 800 men, under 20 com¬ 
panies. At present the works are carried on on a much larger scale. 

John Adams, born Quincy, 1756, was a firm opponent of the Stamp Act, de¬ 
fender of Captain Preston and his soldiers in the so-called “ Boston Massacre ” 
trial, and Congressman, 1774-77. In 1776, as leader of the committee on the 
Declaration of Independence, he fought the Declaration through Congress in a 
three days’ debate. In 1778, 1779, and 1782, he visited Paris on a special mis¬ 
sion, and in 1782 was chosen ambassador to Holland. In 1785-88 he was minister 
to England. He was the first Vice-President, and in 1796 was elected President 
by the Federalists, defeating Jefferson, the Republican candidate, and succeeding 
Washington. From 1801 to 1826 he lived on his estate in Quincy, and died on 
the same day as Jefferson, — July 4, 1826, the 50th anniversary of the Declaration 
of Independence. 

John Quincy Adams, son of John Adams, born Quincy, 1767. He remained 
in Europe most of the time between 1778 and 1785, then graduated at Har¬ 
vard, and became a lawyer and publicist. He was successively minister to Hol¬ 
land, England, and Prussia, 1794 -1801. A United States senator 1S03 - 8 ; in 1809 
he became minister to Russia, and later was appointed minister to England. Secre¬ 
tary of State, 1817 - 25, in the latter year he was elected President of the United States 


38 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


(the 6th). From 1831 to 1848 he was in Congress, and died suddenly in the 
Capitol (1848), his last words being, “ This is the last of earth ; I am content.” 
Under his influence (as Secretary of State or President) great national works were 
carried on ; Florida was added to the Union ; and the South American republics 
were recognized. An opponent of the extension of slavery, and a powerful advo¬ 
cate of the right of petition, his powers continued until the last, and won for him 
the title of “the Old Man Eloquent.” 

Charles Francis Adams, his son, was horn in Boston in 1807, and long lived in 
Europe. He was one of the founders of the present Republican party, was some¬ 
time a Congressman, and in 1861 received the hereditary office of minister to 
England. He held this position until 1S68, — an arduous duty, since, during this 
time, the (unofficial but efficient) English sympathy with the Rebel States re¬ 
quired sleepless vigilance on his part. In 1872 he was one of the commissioners 
to Geneva (for the settlement of the “Alabama” trouble), and conducted his part 
of the work with great skill. 

John Hancock, born Quincy, 1737, became a wealthy Boston merchant, and 
early opposed the aggressions of Parliament, so that he and Samuel Adams alone 
were excepted from the general pardon which General Gage offered to the 
Americans. Sometime President of the Provincial Congress, in 1775 he was 
President of the Continental Congress, and was the first to sign the Declaration 
of Independence. Later he became an officer in the militia, and was governor of 
Massachusetts 1780-85, and 1787-93. 

This district was first settled by Weston’s company (1622), and Wollaston’s 
(1625), at a place called Merry Mount, where their conduct was so opposed to 
the principles of the Pilgrims that Miles Standish marched from Plymouth against 
these jovial Episcopalians, and sent their chiefs captive to England. In 1630 
the Plymouth forces made another damaging attack on Merry Mount. Thomas 
Morton, of this colony, who was twice banished to England, and once imprisoned 
for one year by the Plymouth government, wrote the “ New English Canaan,” in 
which he gives the following account of the aborigines: “The Indians maybe 
rather accompted as living richly, wanting nothing that is needful; and to be 
commended for leading a contented life, the younger being ruled by the elder, and 
the elder ruled by the Powahs, and the Powahs are ruled by the Devill, and then 
you may imagine what good rule is like to be amongst them.” This curiously 
agrees with Cotton Mather’s theory that “ the Indians are under the special pro¬ 
tection of the Devill. ” 

The next station is Braintree (village not near railroad), an ancient 
farming town. This is the junction of the South Shore Railroad (see 
Route 4). At S. Braintree, 2 M. farther on, the Plymouth Branch Rail¬ 
road diverges to the E. 

Stations, Randolph, Stoughton, Ponkapaug (Briggs’ Hotel), shoe-man¬ 
ufacturing towns. Stations, N. Easton, Easton, Raynham, where the 
Leonard brothers set up the first forge in America, in 1652. 

Taunton (City Hotel, $3 a day, on the Green) was founded by Miss 
Elizabeth Pool, a pious Puritan lady, of Taunton, in Somersetshire. The 
settlement was on the territory of Cohannet, and King Philip was friendly 
to the Tauntonians until midsummer of 1676, when he attacked the place, 
and was driven off and followed sharply until he was killed. In 1810 
there were but 50 houses here, but the water-power of the river soon 
induced the location of factories, until at the present time it is a large 
manufacturing city, with 18,630 inhabitants. Mason’s Locomotive Works 
cover 10 acres and employ 800 men, and the works of the Taunton Car Co. 
are also extensive. The Tack Companies make 700 varieties, from a heavy 
boat-nail down to microscopic tacks weighing 4,000 to the ounce. In 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 39 


1871,18,000,000 bricks were made here. The Taunton Copper Co. covers 
15 acres with their buildings, and works up 3,000,000 or 4,000,000 pounds 
of copper yearly. There are also 11 foundries, and manufactories of 
screws, stove*linings, and lead-works, large cotton-mills, and a famous 
manufactory of Britannia ware. With all this, the city is clean and or¬ 
derly, and clusters around the central square called Taunton Green. 
There are 19 churches, of which St. Mary’s (Catholic) on Broadway, St. 
Thomas (Episcopal), and the First Unitarian, on Church Green, are 
fine stone structures. The latter is a large, rambling, Saxon-towered 
church, which looks like some secluded parish-church of Merrie England 
which was built before the Conquest. The City Hall fronts on Church 
Green, and the Public Library is next to the rude stone church (Congrega¬ 
tional) on Broadway. The extensive buildings of the State Lunatic Asy¬ 
lum are near Taunton Green, surrounded by pleasant grounds. The 
Green is about 1| M. from the Old Colony Station. 

Stations, Weir Junction, Weir, N. Dighton, Dighton. Near the latter 
place, on the opposite shore, is the famous Dighton Rock, — a long 
mass of granite with rude sculptures and inscriptions upon it (copied and 
published in the Antiquitates Americans, Copenhagen), which some schol¬ 
ars refer to the Norsemen in the 11th century, while President Stiles 
speaks of “the Phoenicians, who charged the Dighton Rock, and other 
rocks in Narragansett Bay, with Punic inscriptions which remain to this 
day.” It is said that near this place a skeleton was found (in 1834) with 
a brazen belt and breastplate, which is probably the same which inspired 
Longfellow’s fine poem, “The Skeleton in Armor.” Station Somerset, then 

Fall River ( City Hotel, Mount Hope Hotel, Union House), an ener¬ 
getic and growing city, which enjoys a rare combination of great water¬ 
power on the margin of navigable waters. The river rises in the Watuppa 
Ponds on the highlands 2 M. E. of the city, and falls 136 ft. in less 
than half a mile. Along this incline immense factories are drawn up like 
platoons in a marching regiment, built across the stream and resting on 
the granitic banks on either side. Over $ 10,000,000 are invested in these 
works, and 10,000 persons are employed in them. The great article of 
manufacture is cotton cloth, and more spindles are here engaged upon 
that work than in any other city in America. Most of the mills are now 
run by steam-power. Large quarries of granite are worked in the vicin¬ 
ity. of the city, and many of its edifices, including some of the factories, 
two or three churches, and the City Hall, are built of that material. 
The city is compactly built, and fronts on Mount Hope Bay, across which 
Mount Hope looms into view. On South and North Main Sts. are the 
principal churches, the City Hall, Post Office, and hotels, and from .the 
City Hall a group of parallel factories stretches westward and downward 
to the Bay. Fall River was formerly divided by the Rhode Island line, 




40 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


but a change of boundary, ceding to that State lands about Pawtucket, 
&c., secured to Massachusetts all of Fall River, which is still called the 
“Border City.” Its population in 1870 was 26,768. 

The eastern and western divisions of the Old Colony Railroad unite 
near Fall River, run down through the town of Tiverton, and cross a 
narrow strait at Bristol Ferry to Rhode Island. The track runs down the 
western shore, and ends at Newport, in 19 M. from Fall River. The 
Fall River, Warren, and Providence Railroad runs N. W. from Fall River 
to Providence. 

The palatial steamers, leaving Fall River in the early evening, make 
their first stop at 

Newport. 

Hotels. — Ocean House, Atlantic House, Perry House, Aquidneek House, 
$3.50 a day; $21 a week; United States, Park, Touro. The Cliif House and 
Cottages are near the First Beach; the foreign ministers and some European 
visitors dwell in seclusion at Perrier’s. Boarding-houses and cottages are numer- 
us, and frequently offer far more quiet and restfulness than the hotels, together 
with less expense. 

Reading-rooms. — At the Redwood Library; at the Free Library, on 
Thames Street ; also at the Club-House (private), corner Bellevue Avenue 
and Church Street. 

Cliurclies. — Baptist, on Spring, Farewell, and Clark Streets ; Catholic, St. 
Mary's, Spring St. ; Congregationalist, Spring St. ; Methodist Episcopal, Marl¬ 
boro St., Thames St. ; Episcopal, Trinity, Church St. ; Zion, Emmanuel, All 
Saints (Dr. Potter), Beach St. ; Unitarian, Mill St. 

Carriages and saddle-horses may be obtained at the Atlantic House stables, 
Downing St. L. D. Davis, No. 13 Church St., attends to the rental of the Cliff 
Cottages and others. 

llatlnng, on First Beach. During the hours when the white flag floats bath¬ 
ing in costume is obligatory. While the red flag is displayed, the beach is re¬ 
served for gentlemen. 

Stages run to First Beach and other points at regular hours. 

Steamboats run to Rocky Point and Providence four times daily (in summer), 
excursion tickets, 75c. ; to Wickford (connecting with Shore Line R. R. for New 
York), 3 times daily; to Narragansett Pier, 3 times daily. The magnificent 
steamers of the Fall River Line to New York touch at Newport every evening on 
their way to New York (fare $4). 

Railroads. — The Old Colony, to Boston, 67 miles, fare, $2. Via, Wickford 
(by steam-ferry) and Shore Line to New York, 180 miles. 

The harbor of Newport was first visited (during the historic epoch) by Verraz- 
zani, a noble Florentine, who was sent with the frigate Dauphin, by King Francis 
I. of France, to explore the American coast. He remained two weeks here, re¬ 
fitting his ship, resting his men, and preparing reports for his royal master. The 
Dutch and English explorers visited the place occasionally, until in 1639 the settle¬ 
ment was made by exiled dissenters from the State church of Puritan land. These 
embraced Baptists, Antinomians, and many Quakers, and Rhode Island had such 
a consequent air of heterodoxy and irregularity about it that it was excluded from 
the league of the United Colonies, although it had received a royal charter in 
1665. So late as the beginning of the present century, President Dwight attrib¬ 
uted the laxity of morals in Stonington to “its nearness to Rhode Island.” So 
the little colony drew in its outlying settlements, fortified Providence, and main¬ 
tained armed vessels cruising about Rhode Island throughout King Philip’s War, 
so that no hostile Indian landed on the shores of the “Isle of Peace.” 

Ajiawan, the chief captain of King Philip, and 60 of his bravest warriors, sur¬ 
rendered to Captain Church after the death of Philip, being promised amnesty. 
The broken-hearted chief delivered up his sovereign’s rude regalia, and all accom¬ 
panied Church to Newport, where, shortly after, in Church’s absence, he was per- 











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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


RouteS. 41 


fidiously beheaded. The chief Tispaquin and his men also surrendered to Church 
under solemn pledges of pardon and amnesty, but the murder of this patriotic 
leader was reserved for the people of Plymouth. 

In 1629-31 Dean Berkeley gave a high literary tone to the colony, and organized 
a philosophic society and scientific discussions. The harbor of Newport was 
fortified in 1733. The royal census of 1730 reported 4,640 inhabitants in the town. 
In 1769-70 Newport stood second only to Boston in the extent of its commerce, 
being far ahead of New York. Its population in 1774 was 12,000, and in 1870 it 
was 12,518. In Dec., 1776, the town was captured by a British expedition from 
New York, and was held until Nov., 1779. Lord Percy commanded here until 
he was summoned to England to assume the Dukedom of Northumberland. 
The Hessian Waldeck regiment (1,500 men) formed part of the garrison, and 
Admiral Howe’s fleet wintered here, 1777-78, and returned here after its battle 
with D’Estaing’s fleet off Point Judith. Later in the year D’Estaing made a 
daring demonstration, which caused the British to burn six frigates before the 
town. Sullivan and Green advanced down the island in Aug., 1778, but were 
forced to retire, after an indecisive action. In Nov., 1779, the Anglo-Hessian 
army evacuated the place, having destroyed the wharves, fortifications, &e. 
In 1779 D’Estaing worsted Admiral Arbuthnot in a petty action off Gardiner’s 
Island, and then returned to Newport. In July, 1780, a large fleet, commanded 
by the Chevalier de Ternay, “Knight of St. John of Jerusalem, Governor of the 
Islands of France and Bourbon,” &c., appeared in the harbor, bringing 
the Count de Rochambeau and 6,000 French soldiers (the regiments Bour¬ 
bon nais, Agenois, Royal Auvergne, de Saintonge, Royal Deux-Ponts, Touraine, 
Soissonais, &c.). Among his officers were Aubert Dubayet, who afterwards was 
gen. commanding Mayence and in La Vendee, and in 1796 was Minister of War; 
Count d’Autichamp, afterwards an emigre who served in all Conde’s cam¬ 
paigns ; Viscount Beauharnais, afterwards President of the French Assembly and 
Minister of War, who was guillotined in 1794. His son Eugene became Viceroy 
of Italy, and his widow, Josephine, became Empress of France; Berthier, af¬ 
terwards Marshal of France and Prince of Neufchatel and Wagram, created by 
Louis XVIII. a Peer of France, and assassinated at Bamberg in 1815; Viscount 
de Bethisy, afterwards lieut.-gen. in the army of Conde; Christian, Count 
of Forbach, and William, his successor, fought in the Royal Deux Ponts regi¬ 
ment ; Count Axel Fersen, later Grand Marshal of Sweden ; Viscount de Fleury, 
later Marshal of France ; the Duke de Lauzun, who commanded the Army of the 
Rhine and of La Rochelle, defeated the royalist La Vendee, and was guillotined 
in 1794; Viscount de Noailles ; Marquis de Chastellux; Viscount Laval, and his 
son, afterwards the Duke de Laval; Viscount de Mirabeau, colonel of the regi¬ 
ment La Touraine, bx-other of the great Mirabeau ; Count du Muy ; Chevalier de 
Mauduit-Plessis ; Marquis de Viomenil; Viscount de Fleury; Count de Dumas ; 
Chevalier Dupertail; Duke de Damas ; Viscount Desandrouins ; Arthur Count de 
Dillon, who defeated the Prussians at Argonne and Verdun, and was guillotined in 
1794 ; Marquis de Dubouchet; Baron Turreau ; Baron Viomenil; Victor de Broglie ; 
Count de Custine, a veteran of the Great Frederick’s Seven Year’s War, afterwards 
governor of Toulon, commander of the Army of the'North, and of the Lower 
Rhine, and guillotined in 1793. 

In 1781 the Chevalier de Tilly broke up Arnold’s raiding fleet in the Chesapeake, 
and brought the “ Romulus,” 44, and six other prizes into Newport. Through¬ 
out the war, Newport was rudely handled and gradually demolished, until Brissot 
de Warville, visiting the place in 1788, said that it resembled Liege after the great 
siege. “ The reign of solitude is only interrupted by groups of idle men standing 
with folded arms at the corners of the streets ; houses falling to ruin ; miserable 
shops which present nothing but a few coarse stuffs, or baskets of apples, and 
other things of little value ; grass growing in the public square in front of the 
court of justice ; rags stuffed in the windows, or hung upon hideous women and 
lean, unquiet children.” At the close of the Revolution, the French government 
made strenuous efforts to have Rhode Island ceded to the domain of France. 
President Adams made a naval station here, fortified with six batteries. Dr. 
Samuel Hopkins, the founder of the Hopkinsian school of theology (“ System of 
Theology”), and hero of Mrs. Stowe’s novel, “The Minister’s Wooing,” preached 
at Newport, 1770 -1803. Dr. Stiles, afterwards President of Yale College, preached 
here for many years. The population, which in 1782 was reduced to 5,530, rose 
slowly until the war of 1812 stopped its growth, and since then the progress of 


42 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Newport has been slow and uneven. But this unprogressive and tranquil spirit 
constitutes one of the charms of Newport, and makes of this quiet little marine 
city the Ostend, the Nice of America. 

William Ellery Channing was born at Newport in 1780 (died 1842). “The in¬ 
fluences of the climate and scenery of the island where his boyhood was passed, 
had no slight influence upon the social and moral attributes of his mind.” Pie 
won the highest honors at Harvard University, and afterwards was pastor of a 
Unitarian Church in Boston for 87 years. He was an abolitionist, an anti¬ 
annexationist, and an advocate of peace, and his principles were sustained 
with fearless independence, plain-spoken fidelity, and a solemn and impressive 
manner. As the leader of the liberal party in the Unitarian controversy, his 
power was derived as much from the symmetrical beauty of his life as from the 
remarkable strength of his writings. “ He has the love of wisdom, and the wis¬ 
dom of love.” — Coleridge, of Channing. 

Newport, “the Queen of American watering-places,” and a semi-capi¬ 
tal of the State of Rhode Island, is on the S. W. shore of the island 
from which the State is named, and fronts, across its harbor, on Narra- 
gansett Bay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow 
streets, bordered with the houses of the year-round residents, many of 
which are mansions of the old time. New Newport almost surrounds 
the old town, and stretches away to the S. with a great number of 
handsome villas and cottages. The bathing and boating at Newport are 
fine, the drives over the “ Isle of Peace ” are varied and pleasant, but the 
chief charm of the place is its balmy and equable climate, due, according 
to most opinions, to a divergence in this direction of the waters of the 
Gulf Stream. Dean Berkeley likened the atmosphere of Newport to that 
of Italy, while another writer speaks of the damp sea-air and equable 
climate as resembling those of England. Fogs are of frequent occurrence, 
but of short duration. There are many summer visitors from the South 
and the West Indies, while the array of literary talent which gathers here 
yearly is quite attractive. Several of the ambassadors from Europe, with 
the nobles connected with the embassies, spend their summers here. The 
feature of private cottages is largely developed here, and hotel life is quite 
subordinate to it. Wealthy New York and Boston merchants move into 
their palatial villas early in the summer, and have their horses and car¬ 
riages sent on, so that by Aug. 1 the broad, firm avenues, and the hard 
and level beaches are filled with cheerful life. 

The central point in Old Newport is Washington Square, with its mall 
and fountain. The State House fronts on this Square,— a plain but solid 
old building erected in 1742, which served as a hospital from 1776 to 1781. 
From its steps the Declaration of Independence was read, July 20, 1776, 
and in its Senate Chamber is a fine portrait of George Washington, by 
Stuart. The City Hall, the Perry Hotel, and the mansion taken by 
Com. Perry after his victory at Lake Erie, all front on this Square. Gen. 
Washington passed through this Square on his way to Rochambeau’s 
headquarters in his first visit to Newport. In the evening the town 
was illuminated, and Washington, Rochambeau, and the French nobles 






BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route, 3. 43 


paraded through the streets. Trinity Church (on Church St.) was 
built in the early part of the last century, and was often preached in by 
Dean Berkeley (1729 to 1731). He presented an organ (still in use) to 
this church, and left a dearer token, one - of his children, in the old church¬ 
yard. On Farewell St. is an ancient cemetery, where are buried many 
of the earliest colonists and their governors. The Jewish cemetery on 
Touro St. is a beautiful garden-spot kept in perfect order. Near it is 
the Synagogue, the first in the Union (built in 1762), and not now used, 
though kept in order by permanent endowments. The * Redwood 
Library is south of the cemetery, in a handsome Doric building, dating 
from 1750. An elegant though small library is kept here, and some good 
paintings, together with some fine pieces of statuary. The King of Eng¬ 
land gave 84 volumes to this library, and Dean Berkeley gave also a large 
number ; but when the evacuating British army carried even the church- 
bells with them, they spared not the Redwood Library. Touro Park is a 
favorite resort, and was the gift of Judah Touro, born at Newport in 1775, 
the son of Isaac Touro, the pastor of the Jewish Synagogue. From 1802 
to'1854 he lived in New Orleans, where he amassed a large fortune which 
he left to various charities, mostly those of the Christian Church, though 
he himself was a Jew. “He gave $10,000 towards the Bunker Hill 
I Monument.” On this Park, surrounded by an iron fence, stands the 
* Round Tower, otherwise called the Old Stone Mill, an ivy-clad, circiilar 
stone tower supported on round arches. More battles of the antiqua¬ 
rians have been fought over this ancient tower than could well be num¬ 
bered, the radical theories of its origin being, on the one side, that it was 
built by the Norsemen in the 11th century, and on the other that a 
colonial governor (over perhaps 500 people), built it for a windmill in the 
17th century. Verrazzani spent 15 days in the harbor and exploring the 
land (1524), but makes no mention of this tower ; while, on the other hand, 
it is certain that the early colonists never built in such architecture or 
materials as are here seen. The only thing in favor of the mill theory is 
the fact that Gov. Benedict Arnold (died in 1678) bequeathes it in his 
: will as “my stone-built windmill.” The opening scenes of Cooper’s 
| “Spy” are laid in this vicinity; and Longfellow’s poem, “The Skeleton 
i in Armor,” has told its story. But “ its history has already, in Young 
j America, passed into the region of myth.” Near the round tower stands 
the statue of Commodore M. C. Perry, who opened Japan to the world 
I (1854). 

j, The Vernon House (corner Mary and Clarke Sts.) was Rochambeau’s 
.headquarters in 1780. Also on Clarke St. is the Central Baptist Church, 
Hbuilt in 1733, and next to it is the armory of the Newport Artillery Com¬ 
pany, an Hite corps, formed in 1741. The first Methodist steeple in the 
. world is on the church on Marlboro St. The Penrose House, on Church 





44 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


St., a famous old colonial mansion, where Gen. Washington was once 
a guest, is now a tenement house, and the Clianning Mansion (built 1720) 
is near Thames St. The First Baptist Church, on Spring St., dates from 
1638. In the office of the Mercury, a weekly paper started in 1758, is 
Ben. Franklin’s printing-press, imported in 1720. The News is a bright; 
daily newspaper. 

12 M. N. E. of Newport is the Stone Bridge which unites Rhode 
Island with the mainland at Tiverton. About 7 M. out is the Glen, a 
romantic spot, tree-shaded and quiet, where an old mill stands near a 
small pond. This is a favorite drive for the Newport visitors, forming ail 
easy afternoon’s ride. A small hotel is situated 1 - 2 M. from the Glen, 
and a church in the vicinity was frequently preached in by Dr. Clianning, 
“the Apostle of Unitarianism.” 

6-7 M. from Newport, on a road running to the W.. of the Stone 
Bridge highway, is Lawton’s Valley, a beautiful rural resort, rich in 
verdure and in trees which are kept green by a bright stream flowing 
seaward. The Pond and Old Mill are the principal objects in the scenery«j 
Over the valley is Butt’s Hill, where Sir Robert Pigott attacked the Amer-J | 
icans under Sullivan and Green on their retreat from the siege. Pigott } 
impulsively attacked the halting army, and was beaten back by them' 
until nightfall, when the Americans continued their retreat to the main-4 
land, saving both their artillery and their stores. The British loss was 
260, while the New England militia lost 206 men. 3| M. from New- I 
port, on this road, is the pretty little church of the Holy Cross,: 
and near it is the farmhouse used by the British Gen. Prescott as 
heaqduarters. On the night of July 10, 1777, Lieut.-Col. Barton and 
a small party crossed Narraganset Bay in a boat, and took Prescott 
from his bed, carrying him into captivity. He was exchanged for 
Gen. Lee. 

The grand drive is on * Bellevue Ave., a clean, broad road, lined 
with villas, and running two miles to the S. Here, at the fashionable 
hour, passes a procession of elegant equipages only equalled in Central 
Park, Hyde Park, or the Bois de Boulogne. Many of the homes along 
this avenue are of palatial splendor, and they form a handsome panorama 
of architecture. Bailey’s Beach is at the end of Bellevue Ave.; and 
among the rocky cliffs on the shore near by is the Spouting Cave, a deep 
cavern running back from the sea, into which great waves crowd after a 
storm from the S. E. Unable to go farther, they break with a heavy 
boom, and dash upward through an opening in the roof, sometimes to a 
height of 40-50 ft. From the cliffs in the vicinity (near the Boat- 
House Landing) a noble sea-view is gained, stretching as far as Block { 
Island, 30 miles S. W. The picturesque Gooseberry Island is nearer, 
in the foreground. “A finer sea-view —lit up, as it is, moreover, 











BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 45 


by the ever truly fairy-like spectacle of skips gliding under sail over 
the waters — the eye can rarely witness.” Narragansett Ave. runs at 
right angles with Bellevue Ave., and terminates on the E. at the Forty 
Steps (leading down the rocks). It is lined with fine houses. 

The * First Beach (about \ M. from the Ocean House) is a strip of 
white sand, hard and smooth, extending for 1 M. in length and lined 
with.bath-houses. The slope of the shore is very gradual, and the surf 
is light rather than heavy, so that this is one of the safest beaches 
1 on the coast. It is a lively and brilliant scene here during the hours 
of the white flag in warm days, and the beach is fringed with carriages. 
The Cliff Cottages are in this vicinity. 1 M. E. is the Second, or 
Sachuest Beach, whose “ hard black beach is the most perfect race¬ 
course, and the heaving of the sea sympathizes with the rider, and in¬ 
spires Jiim. ” The hours of low tide are the favorite times to ride here. 
* Purgatory is at the W. end of Sachuest Beach. It is a wonderful 
I chasm, 160 ft. long, 40 - 50 ft. deep, and 8-14 ft. wide at the top, torn 
i out by upheaval or eaten by the waves, in the graywacke rock. Several 
feet of water remain in the chasm at low tide, and in stormy high tides 
heavy masses of water boom through it. The familiar story of the 

I Lover’s Leap of course attaches to this place, but is antedated by the 
legend that the Devil once threw into it a sinful Indian squaw, and his 
hoof-marks can be seen by all unbelievers. Other stories, of later date, 
attach to the Purgatory, but the origin of its name does not transpire. 
Paradise is a verdant valley adorned with cottages, opening off Sachuest 
Beach, and near it is a mass of rocks and upheaved boulders called Para¬ 
dise Lost. The Third Beach is a long, quiet, and sequestered line of sand, 
above which are the Hanging Rocks, where, in a sheltered natural alcove, 
Dean Berkeley loved to sit, and look out over the wide sea, and write down 
his meditations. 

Here he composed “ Alciphron ; or the Minute Philosopher,” a series of Platonic 
dialogues defending the Christian system. Here probably he wrote the noble 
lyric ending with the prophecy : — 

“ Westward, the course of empire takes its way, 

The four first acts already past, 

A fifth shall end the drama with the day. 

Time’s noblest offspring is the last.” 

George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, a famous philosopher and idealist, conceived 
( a plan for converting the American Indians by a university, and came to New¬ 
port, under royal charter, in 1729. He built the mansion “Whitehall” (now 
a farmhouse), 3 M. from the town, but soon found that his scheme was im¬ 
practicable, and returned to England in 1731, giving his Newport estate and a fine 
library to Yale and Harvard Colleges. From 1733 until his death (in 1753) he was 
Bishop of Cloyne. 

Washington Allston was fond of roaming on these beaches, and Dr. Channing 
| once remarked (of First Beach), “ No spot on earth has helped to form me so 
much as that beach.” 

Sachuest Point is on the S. E. of the island, and is much visited by 
fishermen. 






46 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


To Miantonomi Hill, 1| M. from the city, with its old British earth¬ 
works and noble view of Newport and its environs, is a pleasant ex¬ 
cursion for a clear day. Honeyman's Hill, near Miantonomi, is another 
far-viewing point. The old Malbone Estate (see “Malbone; a Romance 
of Oldport,” by T. W. Higginson) was at the foot of Miantonomi Hill. 

The Pirates' Cave and Bateman’s Point are often visited, being about 
4^ M. from the city, and a favorite drive is around the Neck, past 
Fort Adams, and along Ocean and Bellevue Aves. to the city again, the 
distance being little more than 10 M. 

Fort Adams, distant 3|-4 M. from the city (by Thames St. and Wel¬ 
lington Ave.). This is the strongest (save two, Fortress Monroe and 
Fort Richmond) of the coast defences of the U. S., and mounts 468 can¬ 
non, requiring a garrison of 3,000 men. Its systems of covered ways, 1 
casemates, and other protective works, is complete. The “ fort days,” 
(twice weekly), when the garrison band plays its best music, attract ' 
great numbers of visitors, and many carriages pass the imposing granite 
walls, and wait on the parade. 

This fortress is on Brenton’s Point, named for the noble family of that name. 
William Brenton was governor of the colony 1666 - 69 ; his son, Jalileel, was a cus¬ 
toms officer under William III. ; his grandson, J ahleel, resided on the great family 
estates in the island ; his great-grandson, Jahleel, refused very tempting offers 
from the Americans, left his estates, which were afterwards confiscated, and com¬ 
manded the British frigate, the “Queen”; his great-great-grandson, Jahleel, an 
English knight and rear-admiral of the Blue, died at London in 1841. 

Opposite Fort Adams, on Conanicut Island, is an old stone fort, cir¬ 
cular in form, called the Dumplings. A fine marine view is enjoyed 
from this loftily placed ruin. 

Goat Island, opposite the city-wharves, is the headquarters of the 
torpedo division of the U. S. Naval Service. Here is the school in which 
the young officers of the navy are instructed in the torpedo service. Lime ' 
R,ock is beyond Goat Island, and is famed for being the home of Ida 
Lewis, the American Grace Darling, who has saved many lives in this 
harbor. Rose Island is farther out in the Bay, and has the remains of an 
old fort upon it. Fort Green was built in 1798, near the Blue Rocks and 
the line of Washington St. On Coaster's Harbor Island is a fine 
Asylum for the poor, on land left by Wm. Coddington, the founder of 
R. I., and for nine years its governor. 

Rhode Island was bought from the Indians in 1638. Its name was Aquid- 
neck, “The Isle of Peace.” The earliest discoverers named it Claudia, and a later 
exploring expedition from Holland, coming upon it in the autumn, when its forests 
were in bright colors, called it Rood Eylandt, the Red Island. Roger Williams 1 
tried to fasten the name Patmos upon it, but Rhode Island prevailed derived ' 
according to some, from its similarity to the Isle of Rhodes, a Moslem fortress in 
the E. Mediterranean. In that early day Neale called it “ the garden of New 
England,” and even now the Rhode Island farms are the most valuable in the six 
States. Off its shores are caught 112 kinds of fish, ranging from whales to 
smelts. The island is 15 M. long by 3-4 M. wide, and is “pleasantly laid 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


j Route 3. 47 


out in hills and vales and rising grounds, with plenty of excellent springs 
and fine rivulets, and many delightful landscapes of rock, and promontories, and 
adjacent lands.” * 

Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born at Newport in 1777, and Capt. 
Decatur, of the navy, was born here in 1751, whose son was Stephen Decatur, 

“ the Bayard of the seas.” 

After leaving Fall River, and touching at Newport, the steamer moves 
on steadily through the night, passing Point Judith, Block Island, and 
Fisher’s Island, after which she enters the tranquil waters of Long Island 
Sound. At a very early hour the narrowing W. end of the Sound is 
entered, and the shores of Westchester County are passed on the N. 
Throgg’s Point, on the r., bears Fort Schuyler (318 guns), out on the 
Sound, which is mated by a strong fortress on Willet’s Point (opposite). 
After passing several villages, Flushing Bay opens to the 1., with the 
beautiful village of Flushing at its head. Richly cultivated islands and 
shores follow, up to Randall’s Island, with the House of Refuge, and 
Ward’s Island, with the Emigrant-Refuge and Hospital, and the Potter’s 
Field, where 3,000 of the poor of New York are buried yearly. The 
steamer now enters Hell Gate, a wild and turbulent succession of strong 
currents and whirlpools, caused by the action of immense bodies of water, 
in the changes of the tide, being poured through this narrow and sinuous 
strait, which abounds in rocky islets and sunken ledges. The passage of 
this point was formerly difficult and dangerous, and two or three British 
frigates were wrecked here during our wars. But immense ledges have 
been removed by submarine blasting, and now but little danger remains. 
Astoria and Ravenswood are beautiful villages soon passed on the Long- 
Island shore, after which Blackwell’s Island comes into view, with its 
long lines of charitable and correctional establishments. The N. point 
of this island is occupied by a neat little model of a fort, with a formid¬ 
able array of wooden cannon, called Fort Maxey or the Crazy-Man’s Fort. 

It was built by an Irish lunatic named Maxey, who has lived many years 
here, and claims a great sum from the government for his defense of New 
York. The octagonal building, with two long wings, .is the Lunatic 
Asylum. One wing is reserved for each sex, while the more noisy 
maniacs are kept in a separate building on the E. The Work-Houses 
come next, where willing hands which can find no work, and vagrants, 
who will not do honest labor, are furnished with appropriate work. The 
extensive Alms-Houses, with the handsome house of the Superintendent, 
come next, being divided into male and female departments. Then the 
extensive Penitentiary and Charity-Hospital are passed, and, on the lower 
end of the island, the ornate building of the Small-Pox Hospital. These 
structures are all of granite, quarried here by the convicts, and probably 
there is no cluster of such institutions, in the same space, in the world, 
which combine so much of safety, comfort, and practical influence for 
correction and restraint. Deep ship-channels run on each side of the 





48 Route 4- 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. 


island, and on the Manhattan shore, opposite its centre, is the great 
• German Festival-Garden, called Jones’ Wood. Hunter’s Point and 
Greenpoint are now passed on the left, and a long line, on both sides of 
the, East River, of foundries and factories. Then comes Williamsburg 
with its shipyards. On the 1., and beyond it, fronting on Wallabout 
Bay, is the Brooklyn Navy-Yard, the principal naval-station of the 
Union, where several U. S. frigates may usually be seen. Crowded 
wharves now stretch into the stream on each side, with forests of 
masts, while fleet and powerful tug-boats dart to and fro in the river, and 
the crowded and ever busy ferry-boats cross and recross it. The works 
of the great East-River Bridge are seen near Fulton Ferry in Brooklyn. 
Where Brooklyn bends off to the S. W., the steamer turns to the 
W., and passes Governor’s Island on the 1. This island belongs to 
the government, and its centre is occupied by Fort Columbus, a low-lying 
but powerful star-fort, mounting 120 guns. A water-battery on the 
S. W. commands the channel toward Brooklyn, and a tall, semi-cir¬ 
cular fort with three tiers of guns, called Castle William, looks toward 
the Battery. The steamer now rounds the Battery, the tree-shaded 
lower extremity of Manhattan Island. This was once a favorite park, 
but is now neglected. The curious round building at the water’s edge 
was built in 1807 by the government, as a fortress, under the name of 
Castle Clinton. At a later day great fairs and concerts were held here, 
and it is now used as an emigrant depot. On the 1., Ellis, Bedloes, and 
Staten Islands are seen, and Jersey City and Bergen. Passing up the 
North River the boat soon enters its dock at the foot of Chambers St. 
(see New York). 

4. Boston to S. Buxbury. 

Yia Old Colony and South Shore Railroads. Distance, 39 M. Time, 
If - 2J hrs. 

Boston to Braintree, see Route 3. Stations, E. Braintree , Weymouth, 
Wessagusset (Weymouth Hotel), 12 M. from Boston, a town of 9,000 in¬ 
habitants, was settled at an early date by 60 Episcopalians. Here, in 
1623, occurred the terrible attack of Miles Standish on the assembled In¬ 
dian chiefs, whose justifiableness has not yet been proven clearly. The 
scene is well described in the 7th part of “ The Courtship of Miles Stand¬ 
ish,” by Longfellow. After this affair, the Episcopalian colonists left, 
and in 1624 a company moved in from Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, Eng. 
who gave its name to the town. * 

Stations N. \\ eymouth, E. Weymouth , W. Hingliam, Hingham (see 
Route 2), Nantasket, and Cohasset. The latter is a small town with 
a quaint old church on its green. The rocky shores and resounding 
inlets along the ocean front are very picturesque, and are adorned 
with fine villas. 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. Route 4 . 49 


No district in America yields such quantities of Irish moss as do the shores of 
Cohasset and Scituate. O 11 these same “hard sienitic rocks, which the waves 
have laid bare but have not been able to crumble,” in Oct., 1849, the emigrant 
vessel “ St. John ” was wrecked, and many scores of passengers were lost. “ The 
sea-bathing at Cohasset Rocks was perfect. The water was purer and more trans¬ 
parent than any I had ever seen. The smooth and fantastically worn rocks, and 
the perfectly clean and tress-like rock-weeds falling over you, and attached so 
firmly to the rocks that you could pull yourself up by them, greatly enhanced the 
luxury of the bath.” — Thoreau. Capt. John Smith, when passing by one of 
these rocky promontories, in 1614, was attacked by the Indians with arrows, 
whereupon he says, “We found the people in those parts verie kinde ; but in their 
furie no lesse valiant.” 

At N. Cohasset are the Black Rock and Rockville Houses, while 
the Pleasant Beach House is south of these, and on a point near Minot’s 
Ledge is the extensive Glades House. Minot’s Ledge is a dangerous 
reef far out from the shore. In 1849, a lighthouse on iron piles was 
built here, but this was swept away in the great storm of April, 1851, 
and its keepers were lost. The present lighthouse (8 M. from Boston 
Light) is 88 ft. high, of which the lower 40 ft. are of solid masonry. 
Stations W. Scituate, Egypt, Scituate (South Shore House), a quiet 
old marine village looking out on the ocean through a wide liarbor-mouth 
scarce a mile away. Cliff St. leads up on an eminence whence a fine 
view is gained of the sea, and the singular and desolate bluffs in the S. 
Near by is Peggotty Beach, with good bathing, but 110 hotel. 

Station, South Scituate (far-viewing hotel on the bluffs near the R. R.), 
E. Marshfield, Littletown, Marshfield Centre. 

Marshfield station is about 4 M. from the seaside resort of Brant 
Rock (several small hotels). Carriages are usually in waiting at the sta¬ 
tion to carry travellers to Brant Rock, or to the Webster Estate (2 M.). 
The Webster Mansion is a large, antique, and pleasant house, approached 
from the road by a long, curving avenue lined with trees. By the courtesy 
of the present possessors of the estate, travellers are permitted to go 
through the house (gratuity to servants, 50 cts.). The various apart¬ 
ments of the house, low, broad, and wainscotted, are filled with old paint¬ 
ings and relics. The library, a high and graceful room on the N. wing, 
contains the books and many interesting mementos of the statesman, 
together with an interpolated bust of Pope Pius IX. \ M. S. of the 
Webster Mansion (passing, on the 1., a French-roofed house, where lives 
Adelaide Phillips, the celebrated contralto), at the end of the road, is 
the old Winslow House, built and inhabited by the Pilgrim Gov. Winslow 
in the 17th century. 

A road turning to the 1. from the main road just N. of the Webster farm, and 
running toward the sea, leads in a few minutes to an ancient burying-ground 
on an ocean-viewing hill. The first graves reached are those of the Webster family: 
Daniel, and his sons, —Major Edward, died in the Mexican War, and Col. Fletcher 
Webster (12th Mass. Infantry), killed at the battle of Bull Run, 1862. 

Daniel Webster, born at Salisbury, N. H., Jan. 18, 1872, was in the class of 
1S01 at Dartmouth College, and afterwards became a lawyer. His matchless elo¬ 
quence and vast ability carried him rapidly forward, and he became a Congress- 


50 Route 4- 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBUKY. 


man (1813-17, and 1823-27), a Senator (1827-39, and 1845-50), and Secretary 
of State (1840-43, and 1850-52.) “The famous Dartmouth College case, carried 
by appeal to Washington in 1817, placed him in the front rank of the American 
bar. Among the great cases argued by him before the U. S, Supreme Court 
were those of Gibbons and Ogden (steamboat monopoly case), that of Ogden 
and Saunders (State insolvent laws), the Charles River Bridge case, the Alabama 

Bank case, the Girard Will case, and the Rhode Island Charter case.Dec. 

22, 1820, he delivered his celebrated discourse at Plymouth on the anniversary 
of the landing of the Pilgrims. Others of this class of efforts were that on the 
laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill Monument (June 17, 1825), and 
at its completion (June 17, 1843), and the eulogy on Adams and Jefferson, July 4, 
1826. He again entered Congress in Dec., 1823 ; made his famous speech on 
the Greek Revolution ; and, as chairman of the judiciary committee, reported and 
carried through the House a complete revision of the criminal code of the U. 
S. In the 19th Congress he made a masterly speech on the proposed diplo¬ 
matic Congress at Panama.His great speech in reply to Hayne, delivered 

in the Senate Jan. 26 and 27, 1830, on Foote’s resolution, has been decared, 
next to the Constitution itself, the most correct and complete exposition of the 
true powers and functions of the Federal Government.” As Secretary of State 
under Tyler and Fillmore, he settled the Northeastern Boundary question (Ash¬ 
burton Treaty). “Mr. Webster’s person was imposing, of commanding height, 
and well-proportioned, the head of great size, the eye deep-seated, large, and lus¬ 
trous, his voice deep and sonorous, his action appropriate and impressive.” His elo¬ 
quence on great occasions has been called “the lightning of passion running along 
the iron links of argument.” He was very fond of rural life, of farming, and of 
fishing and hunting. On the 24th of Oct., 1852, at his home in Marshfield, died 
Daniel Webster, the foremost man in New England’s history. 

Near the Webster Monument is an iron-railed lot, containing the tombs of 
“The Honble. Josiah Winslow, Gov. of New Plymouth. Dyed December ye 18, 
1680, setatis, 62.” “Penelope, ye widdow of Gov. Winslow,” and others. 

Edward Winslow came in the “Mayflower,” and was governor of Plymouth in 
1633, ’36, and ’44. He was a warm friend of the Sachem Massasoit. In 1635, 
while Plymouth’s agent. Archbishop Laud imprisoned him 17 weeks in the Fleet 
Prison for heretical acts. He died in 1655, while in partial superintendence of a 
fleet sent by Cromwell against the Spaniards. From Edward’s brother was de¬ 
scended John A. Winslow, rear-admiral U. S. navy, who fought in the Mex¬ 
ican War, and in the Western river squadrons, 1861-63. June 19, 1864, com¬ 
manding the “Kearsage,” he was attacked off Cherbourg by the Confederate war 
steamer, the “Alabama.” The vessels were of about the same strength, but so 
skilfully was the “Kearsage” protected and manoeuvred that her opponent was 
sunk within sight of the crowded French coast. 

Josiah Winslow, son of Edward, was born at Marshfield in 1629, commanded the 
colonial armies through King Philip’s War, and was the first native-born governor 
(1673-1680). His grandson, John Winslow, born at Marshfield, 1702, a brave and 
able officer, “was the principal actor in the tragedy of the expulsion of the hap¬ 
less Acadians from Nova Scotia in 1755 ; and it is a singular fact that, 20 years 
after, nearly every person of Winslow’s lineage was, for political reasons, by the 
force of events, transplanted to the veiy soil from which the Acadians were ex¬ 
pelled.” 


After Marshfield are the stations Webster Place, Duxbury (Hollis 
House), and S. Duxbury. 


Duxbury was allotted to John Alden (youngest of the Pilgrims, whose great 
grandson commanded the 7th Mass. Continental Regt., and was killed in battle at 
Cherry Valley), and to Mdes Standish. The Bradfords also settled here, and Alden 
Brad foid, the author, and Gamaliel Bradford, colonel of the 14th Mass. Regt. through 
the war for independence, were born here. Duxbury was so named from its be¬ 
ing the home of the military chief (dux) of the colony. Standish lived on Cap¬ 
tains Hill, m S. Duxbury, a far-viewing eminence 180 ft. high and sur¬ 
rounded on 3 sides by the waters of the Bay. In Oct., 1872, imposin 0- cere- 
.held on this Bill, and a costly monument (to be finished late in 
18(3) was dedicated to the Pilgrim soldier. A fine view of Plymouth and the 





BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 


Route 5. 51 


ocean (and of Cape Cod in clear weather) is enjoyed from Captain’s Hill. Miles 
Standish, a veteran of the Flanders campaigns, came over with the Pilgrims and 
was made the head of their armies (consisting of 12 men), although he did not 
belong to their church. He was a short man, very brave, but impetuous and 
choleric, and his name soon became a terror to all hostile Indians. He is the 
hero of a beautiful poem in nine parts, by Longfellow, called “ The Courtship of 
Miles Standish.” 

Ralph Partridge, the first pastor of Duxbury, “had the innocence of a dove and 
the loftiness of an eagle. His epitaph is ‘ Avolavit.’” — Mather. 

The Standish House is on the harbor some distance from the S. 
Duxbury Station. Its still-water bathing is good. From Duxbury Post 
Office to Plymouth, by the main road, is 9 M. At Duxbury is the 
American end of the French Atlantic Telegraph. 

5. Boston to Plymouth. 

Via Old Colony Railroad, 37-g M., in If lirs. 

Boston to S. Braintree, see Route 3. Stations, S. Weymouth , N. 
AUngton (Culver House), AUngton, S. AUngton (Wheeler House), 
the last three stations being in a town of about 10,000 inhabitants, 
who are mostly engaged in the manufacture of shoes. The line now 
approaches the great lake-strewn forest of the Old Colony, passing 
the stations of N. Hanson, Hanson, Halifax, Plympton, and Kings¬ 
ton (Patuxet House, with daily stage to N. Carver). The train now 
passes along the W. shore of Plymouth Harbor, with Captain’s Hill 
(Duxbury) prominent on the 1. across the water. 

Plymouth, Umpame, or Patuxet. (Samoset House, a large and comfortable 
hotel, near the R. R. station. $ 1.50 to $ 2 a day). 

Elizabeth, Queen of England, in 1558 -62, put into operation the Acts of Su¬ 
premacy and Uniformity, and the Articles of Religion, sternly forbidding all forms 
of religious worship within her realm, save those prescribed by the Church of 
England, of which she was the head. Almost simultaneously a sect sprang up, 
claiming that the Anglican Church still retained many of the errors of Roman 
Catholicism ; while, in opposition to the Queen’s primacy and ecclesiastical laws, 
they maintained that the church was spiritual, governed by the laws of Christ 
given in the New Testament, and separate from temporal affairs and independent 
of earthly sovereigns. Hence they were called Separatists (sometimes Brown- 
ists). They were imprisoned and martyred by the government, and in 1598 many 
fled to Holland. Churches existed at Southwark and elsewhere, but the true 
birthplace of the Pilgrim Church (if not at Jerusalem) was at the deserted “Manor 
of the Bishops ” (of York) at Scrooby. Bancroft, the new primate, redoubled the 
persecutions, in 1602, and in 1608 the church at Scrooby ran the blockade of the 
English coast, and went to Amsterdam. In 1609 the Pilgrims moved to Leyden, 
and in 1620 sailed from Delfthaven, via Southampton, for America. On Sept. 
6, the “Mayflower,” previously driven back by adverse circumstances, left Ply¬ 
mouth in England, intending to reach land and settle near the Hudson River. By 
treachery or otherwise they struck the continent far north of this point, and on 
the 21st Dec., 1620, the Pilgrims landed at New Plymouth. Capt. Smith was 
severely attacked here by the Indians in 1614, and Standish’s rude forays on 
Cape Cod had enraged the aborigines, but the Wampanoag tribe, which in 1616 
numbered 30,000 souls, had been reduced by a great war, followed by a pestilence, 
to a remnant of 300. By the latter part of March, 44 Pilgrims had died, and then 
the Sachem Massasoit made an alliance with the dwindling colony. In 1622 a 
massive structure was erected for a church, with a battlemented roof and ord¬ 
nance, which made it the castle of the village. In 1621 and 1623 other companies 


52 Route 5. 


BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 


of Pilgrims crossed the sea, after which the colony throve and occupied the neigh¬ 
boring lands. In March, 1621, Samoset and Tisquantum came in and told them 
of the land (the latter having been stolen by Hunt, in 1614, from the coast, and 
sold at Malaga as a slave). In 1624, the first cattle ever in New England were 
landed here, and in the same year Plymouth was found to consist of 32 houses, 
surrounded by a high palisade with fortified gates. Canonicus, chief of the Narra- 
gansetts, sent a sheaf of arrows bound with a rattlesnake’s skin, to Gov. 
Bradford, as a token of hostility. The skin was filled with powder and shot, and 
sent back to Canonicus, who understood this grim answer, and as long as he lived 
restrained his tribe from attacking the colony. As one of the United Colonies, 
Plymouth bore her part in the Indian wars, until it finally joined the colony of 
Massachusetts Bay, in 1692. 

“ Methinks I see it now, that one, solitary, adventurous vessel, the ‘Mayflower,' 
of a forlorn hope, freighted with the prospects of a future state, and bound across 
the unknown sea. I behold it pursuing, with a thousand misgivings, the uncer¬ 
tain, the tedious voyage. Suns rise and set, and weeks and months pass, and 
winter surprises them on the deep, but brings them not the sight of the wished- 
for shore. I see them now scantily supplied with provisions, crowded almost to 
suffocation in their ill-stored prison, delayed by calms, pursuing a circuitous route ; 
and now driven in fury before the raging tempest on the high and giddy waves. 
.... The awful voice of the storm howls through the rigging. The laboring 
masts seem straining from their base ; the dismal sound of the pumps is heard ; 
the ship leaps, as it were, madly, from billow to billow ; the ocean breaks and 
settles with engulfing floods over the floating deck, and beats with deadening, 
shivering weight against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these 
perils, pursuing their all but desperate undertaking, and landed at last, after a five 
months’ passage, on the ice-clad rocks of Plymouth, weak and weary from the 
voyage, poorly armed, . . . without shelter, without means, surrounded by hos¬ 
tile tribes. Tell me, man of military science, in how many months were 

they all swept away by the 30 savage tribes of New England ? Tell me, politician, 
hoAv long did this shadow of a colony, on which your conventions and treaties had 
not smiled, languish on the distant coast ? .... Is it possible, that, from a be¬ 
ginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy not so much of admiration as of pity, there 
has gone forth a progress so steady, a growth so wonderful, an expansion so 
ample, a reality so important, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious ? ” — Ed¬ 
ward Everett. 

See also Mrs. Hemans’ inimitable hymn, beginning, 

“ The breaking waves dashed high 
On a stem and rock-bound coast, 

When a band of exiles moored their bark 
By the wild New England shore.” 

On Court St. is the classic * Pilgrim Hall, in front of which is a rock 
of gray sienitic granite, surrounded by an iron fence. This is “the cor¬ 
ner-stone of the Republic/’ a portion of the rock on which the Pilgrims 
first stepped from their boats, and which was drawn from the water¬ 
side in 1775. 

The Pilgrim Hall (open daily) contains “The Landing of the Pilgrims,” 
a large painting of much interest (13 x 16 ft.), and nine portraits ; busts 
of Daniel Webster and John Adams; Governor Carver’s chair; sword, 
&c., of Miles Standish; the gun-barrel with which King Philip was 
killed, and a letter from King Philip ; embroidery by Lorea Standish; 
and a great number of relics of the early colonists, with an elegant model 
of the monument which is to be. 

The principal ledge of * Forefathers’ Rock is on Water St., and is 
covered by a singular edifice (canopy) of granite, in whose attic has been 
placed the bones of several men who died in the winter of 1620-1. 




BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 


Route 5. 53 


Town Green is at the end of Main Street. On the site of the present 
Gothic Unitarian Church older churches were built in the first days. 
The remarkably homely Church of the Pilgrimage (Cong.) stands near 
by. Opposite this church is the Town Hall, built in 1749. To the 
r. of the Unitarian Church is the path to the * Burying Hill, where 
many of the Pilgrims were interred. Ancient and moss-covered tomb¬ 
stones cover the green slopes, with here and there more pretentious mon¬ 
uments, as those to Gov. Bradford, Elder Cushman, and others. In 
1622, the embattled church was built on this hill, with six cannon on its 
sheltered flat roof. Every man brought his gun and ammunition to 
church, and sentinels, on a tower, watched incessantly. The * view from 
Burying Hill is fine, embracing the harbors of Plymouth and Duxbury, 
Captain’s Hill, Cape Cod, Manomet Hills, &c. Leyden St., the .first 
street in New England, runs E. from Town Square to the water. Near 
the foot of Middle St. and W. of the canopy-covered rock, is a small 
green space called Cole’s Hill, where were buried 50 of the Mayflower 
company (including Gov. Carver), in 1620-21. Near the Pilgrim 
Hall are the handsome County buildings; and on Training Green, 
near the High School, is a monument to the town’s soldiers who died in 
the War for the Union. Behind the High School is Watson’s Hill, where 
Massasoit appeared in March, 1621, with 60 warriors, and concluded a 
league with the handful of Pilgrims which was sacredly kept for 50 years. 
Billington Sea, one of the two hundred ponds which are in the vast 
Plymouth Forest (“the Adirondacks of Massachusetts”), is about 2 M. 
from the village, and is 4J M. around. About 3 M. S. of Plymouth is 
the Clifford House, a favorite summer resort. S. W. of Plymouth is 
the lofty promontory of Manomet, near which is the village (hotel) of 
Manomet Ponds. A strip of sand 3 M. long forms a natural breakwater 
before the town, on which, in Dec., 1779, the war-ship “Gen. Arnold” 
was wrecked, and 70 men frozen to death on her decks. In the N. part 
of the harbor is Clark’s Island, where the Pilgrims remained Dec. 9th 
and 10th, 1620. Beyond are the prominent points of Saquish and the 
Gurnet, on the latter of which is a lighthouse. 

On a high hill near the Samoset House 9 acres of land have been bought, and 
1,500 tons of granite laid as foundation for a National Monument to the Fore¬ 
fathers. On an octagonal pedestal of granite 40 ft. high, will stand a statue of 
Faith, also 40 ft. high (the “ Bavaria” at Munich is 42 ft. high). Her right hand 
is uplifted, and her left holds a Bible. On pedestals about the base will be four 
sitting statues representing the cardinal principles of the Pilgrim commonwealth, 
— Morality, Law, Education, and Freedom. Each of these is to be 20 ft. high, 
with 8 statues in niched panels by their thrones, each of which will be 9 ft. high. 
Historical records and bas-reliefs will adorn the sides of the pedestal, and an in¬ 
ternal stairway will lead to the feet of Faith. Statues, pedestal, and_all, are to be 
of granite. 


54 Route 6. 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


6. Boston to Cape Cod. 

Via Old Colony R. R., Boston to Wellfleet, 106 miles, in 4£ - 5 hours. Fare, 
$3.05. Two trains daily. Boston to S. Braintree, see Route 3. 

Station, Holbrook, with a pretty little Victoria Gothic Town Hall. 
Station, E. Stoughton, after which the line passes through a district 
which illustrates the poverty of the American mind in the matter of 
naming towns. Four towns, each containing many square miles, are 
named respectively, N. Bridgewater, W. Bridgewater, E. Bridgewater , 
and Bridgewater. Stations, N. Bridgewater (Standish House), Camjoello, 
Keith's, E. and W. Bridgewater. 

Bridgewater, Sawtucket (Hyland House), was bought of the Indians 
by Miles Standish in 1645. In 1740, Hugh Orr, a Scotchman, erected a 
trip-hammer here, and in 1748 made 500 muskets for the Province 
of Massachusetts, the same being the first made in this country. During 
the Revolution, he made great numbers of iron and brass cannon, and 
cannon-balls for the continental army. 

A branch railroad, 7 miles long, runs from Bridgewater to S. Abington, 
on the Plymouth Branch R. R. Stations, Titicut and Middleboro (Ne- 
masket House), a prosperous town (of about 5,000 inhabitants), where 
several railways unite. 

Between S. Braintree and Fall River the Old Colony R. R. has two divisions, 
eastern and western, several miles apart. On the western division (the shorter 
of the two) the steamboat trains run, while the eastern division, running E. of S. 
from Boston to Middleboro, here turns sharply to the S. W. to Fall River and 
Newport. From Middleboro to Fall River by the main (eastern) line is 14 M., 
passing stations Lakeville, Myrick’s, and Assonet. At Myriek’s, the New Bedford 
and Taunton R. R. crosses the Old Colony R. R. (Myrick’s to New Bedford in £ 
hr.). A railroad runs from Middleboro to Taunton direct, a distance of 10^ 
M. (fare 40 c.), passing the stations Lakeville, Chace’s, E. Taunton, and Weir. 3-4 
M. S. of Middleboro is a cluster of great ponds, abounding in fish. Asowamsett 
Pond (Lakeville House) is the largest sheet of fresh water in the State, and con¬ 
tains 6-8 square miles. On its shores Capt. Dermer was received by the Wam- 
panoag sachems in 1619, and here the anti-English chief, Corbitant, revolted 
against Massasoit, in 1621, and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standish promptly 
marched forth, fell upon Corbitant’s camp by night, and achieved success in the 
first warlike expedition made from Plymouth. 

The Cape Cod Division of the O. C. R. R. begins at Middleboro. 
Stations, Rock, S. Middleboro, and Tremont, or W. Wareham. 

From Tremont the Fairhaven Branch runs to New Bedford (16 M.), passing the 
stations Marion, Mattapoisett, and Fairhaven. 3 M. S. of Marion station (Old 
Landing), passing Sippican village, is White House Beach, fronting on Sippican 
Harbor. 3-4 M. from Marion station is a high promontory, surrounded on three 
sides by Buzzards Bay and Wing’s Cove, on which is a favorite summer hotel, the 
Great Hill House. Mattapoisett (Mattapoisett House) is a small village near 
Buzzards Bay, with fine water-views and large inland forests. The fishing in the 
inlets is fine. 

After passing Tremont station, on the Cape Cod R. R., the line 
passes through the town of Wareham, the northern inlets of Buzzards 
Bay being often seen on the r. Stations, S. 'Wareham, Wareham (Ken- 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Route 6. 55 


drick’s Hotel), E. Wareham, and Cohasset Narrows, where is the junction 
of the R. R. for Falmouth, Martha’s Vineyard, &c. (See Route 7.) 
Soon after, the Straits between Buzzards and Buttermilk Bays are crossed, 
and then follow the stations. Monument, N. Sandioich, W. Sandwich, 
and Sandwich. “ The Cape extends E. from Sandwich 35 M., and thence 
N. and N. W. 30 more, in all 65, and has an average breadth of 5 M.” 
It is nearly all sand, with boulders dropped on it here and there. Hitch¬ 
cock thinks that the ocean has eaten out Boston Harbor, and other bays, 
and built Cape Cod of the minute fragments. A thin layer of soil 
reaches as far as Truro; ‘ c but there are many holes and rents in this 
weather-beaten garment not likely to be stitched in time, which reveal 
the naked flesh of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare.” 

It is believed that the shores of Cape Cod are the Furdustrandas (Wonder- 
Strands) discovered by Thorhall, the Norseman, in the year 1007. (“When they 
were ready, and their sail hoisted, Thorhall sang : Let us return where our people 
are. Let us make a bird (vessel), skilful to fly through the heaven of sand, to ex¬ 
plore the broad track of ships ; while warriors who impel to the tempest of 
swords, who praise the land, inhabit Wonder-Strands, and cook whales.”) In 
1524, Verrazzani, in the frigate “Dauphin,” coasted about Cape Cod, which is 
probably his “Cape Arenas,” and in 1525, the Portuguese mariner Gomez, explored 
and mapped much of southern New England. The first Anglo-Saxon in New 
England was Capt. Gosnold, who coasted and named Cape Cod in the year 1002, 
having caught many codfish thereabouts, and landed at different points. 

In 1604, Champlain visited this locality, and named it Cap Blanc (White Cape), 
because the sand contrasted so with the dark rocks of the northern coasts. A 
harbor on the S. E. he named Mallebarre, which name still clings to the S. E. 
Cape. In 1609, Hendrick Hudson, with a vessel of the Dutch E. I. Company, 
rediscovered Cape Cod, naming it New Holland, and found a mermaid near by, 
concerning which (or whom) he gives a curious account. In 1614, Capt. John 
Smith visited the Cape, and describes it as “a headland of high hills of sand, 
overgrown with shrubby pines, hurts, and such trash, but an excellent harbor for 
all weather.” Prince Charles, his patron, named it Cape James, but the name 
did not take. About this time the infamous Capt. Hunt kidnapped a ship-load 
of Indians from the coast, so when Harlow landed at the Cape late in 1614, he 
was attacked, and only escaped (with loss) by cannonading the attacking flotilla 
of canoes. In 1616, a French ship grounded or anchored near the Cape, was car¬ 
ried by boarding, and the Indians killed all on board save four, whom they sent 
far and wide through the country as curious trophies. The horrible pestilence 
which immediately after passed over Massachusetts, was attributed by the Indian 
doctors to this fact. In 1620, the vanguard of the Pilgrims appeared in one of 
the Cape harbors, and erelong many villages sprang up here. In 1623, the blame¬ 
less chiefs, Cawnacome, Sachem of Manomet (Sandwich), A spinet of Nauset 
(Chatham), and Iyanough of Cummaquid (Barnstable), were with the council at 
Weymouth when Standish made his attack. They escaped and hid in the swamps 
of the Cape, where they soon died of sorrow and privation, and too late it was 
proven that they were perfectly innocent. Notwithstanding their unfavorable 
experiences of Christian civilization, the Cape Indians passed under its influence, 
and soon 6 Indian churches and 18 assemblies, with 24 native pastors, were num¬ 
bered there. Consequently, at the outbreak of the war of 1675, they repudiated 
their ancient allegiance to King Philip, and remained faithful to the colonists. 

Sandivich (Central House) is a village near the S. edge of the Plymouth 
Forest, and distant 12 M. from Plymouth. The extensive glass-works 
are near the station. 

From W. Barnstable station stages run to Cotuit Port, “ the home of 
genial sportsmen,” 6-7 M. distant, on the S. shore of the Cape. The 


56 Route 6. 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


highlands about the little harbor on which the village is situated are 
partly clothed with pine woods and interspersed with many fresh ponds. 
The Santuit House, near the beaches on the S. shore, is much visited in 
summer. Barnstable is a quiet village with the county buildings. 

On Great Neck, in Marslipee (Massapee), a few M. W. of Cotuit Port, was the 
chief village of the Cape Indians who dwelt on this reservation. In 1658, Rich¬ 
ard Bourne went there as a missionary, and formed a church of which he was 
pastor until his death in 1685. Before King Philip’s War there were 10,000 
Christian Indians in New England. Many of these, including scores of the Mas- 
sapees, were killed fighting for their white brethren, or else, remaining neutral, 
were treated pitilessly by the colonists. Nearly every man of the Massapees 
joined the 1st Mass. Reg. in 1775, and but few returned. Gideon Hawley (Yale 
College, 1749) preached here 1758-1807. In 1802, the last pure-blooded Indian 
died. So many of the men died in the War for Independence, that negroes joined 
the tribe, and it is now a collection of Indo-African half-breeds. In 1834, in 
response to their “ Bill of Complaints ” signed by 287 persons, the State granted 
them limited powers of autonomy. In 1850, about 200 persons were left on the 
reservation. 

Yarmouth is coeval with Barnstable. Near it is a favorite Methodist 
camp-ground. A branch R. R. runs from Yarmouth to Hyannis (Iya- 
nough House), the point of departure for the steamers to Nantucket (30 
miles). Extensive beaches bordered by bluffs covered with groves are 
near Hyannis. 

Stations, S. Yarmouth , S. Dennis, not far from Scargo Hill, the highest 
land on the Cape, from which a noble ocean view is afforded. Stations, 
N. Harwich, Harwich (Central House, Atlantic), the ancient home of 
the Satucket Indians. 

Brewster (Ocean House, Union House), was named in honor of Elder 
Brewster, of the Mayflower Pilgrims. Large and singular boulders are 
found here. Many sailors and captains belong in this town, and Orleans 
(Higgins House) and Eastham, which was settled by the Pilgrims in 1644, 
under the lead of Thomas Prince, who was for sixteen years govern¬ 
or of Plymouth. A fortified church, twenty ft. square, was built, and 
a part of every stranded whale was by law reserved for the ministry. 

At Millennium Grove in this town were long held extensive camp-meet¬ 
ings. The line now passes, on the E., the broad, sandy plains of Nauset. 
Stations, N. Eastham (Nauset House), S. Wellfleet, Wellfleet (Holbrook’s 
Hotel). Wellfleet Bay opens on Cape Cod Bay (the Baye Blanche of 
Champlain), and is distant from Boston 106 M. by R. R. and 70 M. by 
water. This village has 100 vessels and nearly 1,000 men in the mackerel 
fishery. The railroad ends at Wellfleet, and stages connect with it for 
Provincetown, although it is said that late in 1873 a through track will 
be laid. North of Wellfleet is Truro, a large, desolate district, on 
one of whose beaches the British frigate “ Somerset ” was wrecked in 
1778, and 480 men made prisoners. Near Wellfleet, in 1718, the “ Whi- 
dah,” a pirate-ship mounting 23 guns, was wrecked, and 130 buccaneers 
were drowned. Truro was settled in 1700, under the name of Danger- 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Route 6. 57 


field, as it has perhaps the most fatal coast in New England. Scores of 
vessels have been dashed in pieces on its shore, and hundreds of lives 
have been lost. There is scarcely a family in Truro, or indeed on the 
whole Cape E. of Barnstable, but has lost some member by the disasters 
of the sea. Truro lost 57 men and 7 vessels, and Dennis lost 28 men in 
one day of 1841. The lofty Fresnel burners of the famous Highland 
Light (at Clay Pounds on the outer shore of Truro) shed a vivid radiance 
over leagues of rude coast and deep sea. 

Thoreau walked from Orleans to Provincetown (several days) on the ocean side 
of this “sand-bar in the midst of the sea,” and says : — 

“The nearest beach to us on the east was on the coast of Galicia, in Spain, 
whose capital is Santiago, though by old poets’ reckoning it should have been 
Atlantis or the Hesperides ; but heaven is found to be farther west now. At first 
we were abreast of that part of Portugal entre Douro e Mino, and then Galicia 
and the port of Pontevedro opened to us as we walked along ; but we did not en¬ 
ter, the breakers ran so high. The bold headland of Cape Finisterre, a little north 
of east, jutted toward us next, with its vain brag, for we flung back, — ‘ Here is 
Cape Cod, Cape Land’s Beginning.’ A little indentation toward the north—for 
the land loomed to our imaginations like a common mirage — we knew was the 
Bay of Biscay, and we sang: 

‘ There we lay till next day, 

In the Bay of Biscay, O I 

“ A little south of east was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and farther 
yet the pillars which Hercules set up.” 

Truro is “a village where its able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean 
together as a common field. In N. Truro the women and girls may sit at their 
doors and see where their husbands and brothers are harvesting their mackerel 
15-20 M. off, on the sea, with hundreds of white harvest-wagons.” 

The 2nd Mass. Continental Reg. marched from this E. end of the Cape, and 
fought through the Revolution. 

In Nov., 1620, Standish and 16 men, “with musket, sword, and corslet,” 
landed at Long Point, Provincetown, chased the unresisting Indians into Truro, 
pillaged many graves, and carried off everything portable. They were attacked in 
Eastham, by Indians, but the arrows fell harmlessly from their corslets, while 
the musket-shot told on the half-clad red men. 

Provincetown (Allstnim House, Central House) is a curious ma¬ 
rine village, distant from Boston 118 M. by land and 55 M. by water 
(steamer leaves Central Wharf, Boston, Wednesday and Saturday morn¬ 
ings, returning on Monday and Thursday mornings. Fare $1.50). 

The Harbor is a noble one, broad and clear, and is the favorite refuge 
pf the fishing fleets. The energies of the townsmen are devoted to the 
fisheries —of mackerel, cod, and sperm-whales, in whose pursuit they 
search the wildest and most distant banks and bays of the N. Atlantic. 
The village lies along the beach between the sea and the desert, — an in¬ 
habited beach, where fishermen cure and store their fish, without any 
back country. 

This is the last town in that strange region where the people “ are said to be 
more purely the descendants of the Puritans than the inhabitants of any other 
part of the State.” From these shores come the most daring and skilful of 
American seamen. “Wherever over the world you see the stars and stripes float¬ 
ing you may have good hope that beneath them some one will be found who can 
tell you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or Chatham Harbor. “ Cape 


58 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD 


Cod is the bare and bended arm of Massachusetts ; the shoulder is at Buzzards 
Bay ; the elbow, or crazy-bone, at Cape Malebarre ; the wrist at Truro, and the 
sandy fist at Provincetown, behind which the State stands on her guard, with 
her back to the Green Mts., and her feet planted on the floor of the Ocean, like 
an athlete,—protecting her Bay, boxing with N. E. storms, and, ever and anon, 
heaving up her Atlantic adversary from the lap of earth, ready to thrust for¬ 
ward her other fist, which keeps guard the while upon her breast at Cape Ann.” 

The era of constitutional government dawned upon the world, when, on Nov. 
11, 1620, the storm-tossed Mayflower anchored in Provincetown Harbor. Here, 
“on the bleak shores of a barren wilderness, in the midst of desolation, with 
the blast of winter howling around them, and surrounded with dangers in 
their most awful and appalling forms, the Pilgrims of Leyden laid the foundations 
of American liberty.” While the Mayflower lay in this harbor, that celebrated 
compact was drawn up and signed, which long governed Plymouth and her de¬ 
pendencies, and of which J. Q. Adams says : “ This is, perhaps, the only instance 
in human history of that positive original social compact which speculative 
philosophers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government.” This 
solemn compact (given below) was signed by 41 men (of whom 21 died in the next 
four months), 17 of whom had their wives with them, the remaining 43 persons 
being young people and children. 

“In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal 
subjects of our dread sovereign lord. King James, by the grace of God, of Great 
Britain, France, and Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, 
for the glory of God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and honor of our 
king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Vir¬ 
ginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and 
of one another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, 
for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; 
and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, 
ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought 
most meet and expedient for the general good of the colony; unto which we 
promise all due submission and obedience. In witness whereof we have hereun¬ 
der inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of the 
reign of our soverign lord, King James, of England, France, and Ireland, the 
18th, and of Scotland the 54th, Anno Domini, 1620.” 


7. Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Xant ticket. 

Via Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. To Martha’s Vineyard 80 M., in 3J-4 
hours. 

New York to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. To Fall River by steam¬ 
boat (Route 3), thence to Myrick’s (not by the steamboat train, but later). Thence 
to New Bedford, and from there by steamboat to Martha’s Vineyard (in all, 225 
M.). 

Boston to Cohasset Narrows see Route 6. After Cohasset Narrows, the 
line runs due S. for 18 M., on the E. shore of Buzzards Bay, passing sta¬ 
tions, N. Falmouth (near which is Pocasset, abounding in shell-fish, with 
the Red-Brook House and Bay View Cottage,) W. Falmouth, and Fal¬ 
mouth, a quiet old port, which had “ kept on the back side of the Cape, 
and let the centuries go by ” until 1872, when the railroad aroused it. 
Near the village on the S. E. are Falmouth Heights, where a company of 
Worcester men, in 1870, bought 120 acres of land (with two small lakes, 
several groves, and a mile of beach), to be cut up into lots for a summer 
village. Tower’s Hotel, 100 ft. long (opened 1871), fronts on Vineyard 
Sound, with a view of Martha’s Vineyard from its lofty position. Still¬ 
water bathing on the beach. A R. R. Station will probably be made near 


AND NANTUCKET. 


Route 7. 59 


the Heights. The last station is Wood's Hole, whence the steamer car¬ 
ries passengers across the Sound (7 M.) to Martha’s Vineyard. 

Martha’s Vineyard. 

* Sea-Foam House, a new and sumptuous hotel, gas-lighted, steam-heated, with 
elevator, billiard-room, &c., accommodates 250 guests. $4.50 per day. * High¬ 
land House. On Circuit Avenue, in Oak Bluffs Village, are several good hotels, 
on the European plan ; Baxter House, Pawnee House, Central, Island, &c. 

Restaurants at the Baxter and Pawnee Houses, &c. 

Pleasure-Boats at the Sea-Foam Hotel. 

Sea-batlis at the bathing-houses, on Circuit Avenue beyond Ocean Park 
(30 c.). 

In May, 1602, Capt. Gosnold coasted the island on the S., and landed on a bar¬ 
ren islet (No Man’s Land) to the S. W. which he named Martha’s Vineyard. He 
then landed on this island (then called Nope), and found, in S. E. Chilmark, deer 
and all kind of game, springs and a lake of pure fresh water, four kinds of ber¬ 
ries in profusion, and trees loaded with fruitful vines. Probably then, or dur¬ 
ing his stay at Cuttyhunk (over three weeks) the name was transferred from No 
Man’s Land to its present possessor. The name is thought to have been given in 
honor of some friend of the Captain’s, or else for the lady of some one of his 
patrons. (A newspaper correspondent states that the oldest inhabitant, who 
owned these isles, gave them to his daughters ere he died. Rlioda took Rhode 
Island, Elizabeth took the island since named for her, Martha took and named 
Martha’s Vineyard, and as for the remaining island, Nan-toolc-it. The legend is 
interesting, but cannot be traced back farther than the year 1870.) From this 
island and the neighboring main, Gosnold and Pring (1603) got large cargoes of 
sassafras, then esteemed a sovereign specific in Europe. In 1614, Capt. Hunt 
stole 27 Indians at Eastham, on Cape Cod, and sold them as slaves at Malaga, for 
$100 each. One of them, Epenow, was carried to England, where the sly fel¬ 
low told of vast gold-mines on this island. A ship was sent over, at great ex¬ 
pense, with Epenow to show the place, but as soon as he saw the shore, he leaped 
over, swam to land, and was not seen again until Capt. Dermer landed here in 
1619. In a dashing attack conducted by Epenow, the Captain and many of his 
men were killed and wounded. In 1647, Thomas Mayliew, Governor of the Islands 
by grant from the Earl of Stirling, settled at Edgartown. The lordship of the 
isles remained in the Mayhew family from 1641 to 1710, during which time the 
kindness of these men won the hearts of the natives. The Mayhews were all 
missionaries, and, learning the Indian language, preached with such success that 
Christian villages arose all over the island. During King Philip’s War, the con¬ 
verts remained true, and guarded the shores. About 1660, some Quakers landed 
here calling the Puritan pastors “priests of Baal,” but the Indians soon drove 
them off. Gookin visited the island in 1674, and found six towns of Christian 
Indians, “ a very fruitful Vineyard unto the Lord of Hosts.” For a century the 
Indians slowly dwindled, and the coasting vessels began to frequent Holmes’ Hole 
in yearly increasing numbers. In 1778, Lord Gray (who defeated Wayne at Paoli) 
with a British force, destroyed a large number of vessels in the Hole. In 1835, 9 
tents were pitched at the present Camp-Grounds, and the first camp-meeting on 
the island was held. 

The Wesleyan Grove, or Camp-Meeting Ground, is near the Sea View 
House and is laid out in gracefully curved streets, grass-paved and crowded 
with small but vigorous trees. Near Trinity Park, a wide lawn, is the 
great tabernacle tent 160 by 120 ft. which can shelter 5,000 persons. 
This is the centre of intense excitement during the meetings in late 
August, when from 20,000 to 25,000 people are gathered here, and emi¬ 
nent Methodist preachers address them. Lake Anthony borders the N. 
and W. of the ground, and beyond it, on the high bluffs toward East 
Chop Light, the “ Highlands ” have been laid out under the influence of 



60 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD 


the Methodists. On the E. and S. of the Camp-Ground is the village of 
Oak Bluffs, laid out in 1868, on bluffs 30 ft. high fronting Vineyard Sound. 

Among the oak groves here are hundreds of Swiss and Gothic cottages, 
resembling large bird-houses, bright and clean and cheerful. On a hill 
near the centre is a curious, many-sided Muscovite chapel, which is used 
often but floats no denominational flag. It is said that some come to Oak 
Bluffs “who know and care nothing for Jerusalem or its former inhabi¬ 
tants,” wherefore strict police rules are here enforced. 

The steamer runs to Edgartown daily, and a fine road, 6 - 8 M. long, 
leads there. The village of Edgartown (Ocean House, Vineyard House) 
was fotmded in 1647 by Gov. Mayhew, and is at present the capital of 
Dukes County. It has a fine harbor, sheltered by Chappaquiddick Island, 
and possesses a small marine museum. 

10 M. from Oak Bluffs is South Beach, where the Atlantic rolls in 
grandly after a storm. 

By walking to the East Chop Light, a view is gained of Holmes’ Hole, 
or Vineyard Haven, one of the most famous harbors on the coast, where, 
in seasons of storm, hundreds of vessels take shelter under the lofty bluffs. 
Through Vineyard Sound passes the vast and unceasing procession of 
commerce from New York and Southern New England to Boston and 
the East. 

20-25 M. S. W. of Oak Bluffs is Gay lie ad, near which is the Devil’s Den, a 
wild spot where the old Indian traditions say that the giant Moshup lived, who 
caught whales and roasted them on trees which he tore up by the roots. He 
metamorphosed his children into fish, and, on his wife’s lamenting, he threw her 
to Seconnet, where she dwelt and levied contributions on all who passed the 
rocks, until she herself became a rock. Then Moshup disappeared from human 
sight and knowledge. Gay Head is “ the most remarkable natural curiosity in 
New England.” The sea-view from the lighthouse is grand. “Never since I 
stood on Table Rock have I seen a sight so grand as this.” — General Twiggs. 
About this promontory several score of half-breed Indians live a strange unsettled 
life. The remarkable cliffs by the shore have been closely studied by Prof. Hitch¬ 
cock and Sir Charles Lyell, the latter describing them as “the lofty cliffs of Gay- 
head, more than 200 ft. high, where the highly inclined tertiary strata are gayly 
colored, some consisting of light red clays, others of white, yellow, and green, 
and some of black lignite.” 


Nantucket 

is 28-30 M. from Martha’s Vineyard, and connected with it by a daily 
steamer. After leaving the Vineyard astern, the islands of Muskeget and 
Tuckernuck are seen in the S., and near them the low shores of W. Nan¬ 
tucket. The town of Nantucket presents a fine appearance from the 
water, being built on hills. Hotels — Ocean House, $2.50-3.00 (occu¬ 
pying the old mansion of one of the marine aristocracy), a comfortable 
hotel, famous for its chowders ; and the Adams House. 

The Indian tradition is that the Great Spirit was once smoking, when he partly 
filled his pipe with -sand. When the mixed remains were emptied from the pipe 
into the sea, they formed the Island of Nantucket. Its name is said to be an 






AND NANTUCKET. 


Route 7. 61 


Indian modification of Nautikon, a name left by the Norsemen who visited it in 
the 11th century. The best authority pronounces it a corruption of an Indian 
word meaning “far away.” It is called Natocko on the map of 1630. It was 
visited by Gosnold in 1602, at which time about 1,500 Indians were here, and the 
island was covered with oaks. In 1604, Champlain and Poutrincourt landed here 
and remained several days, for the relief of those men of their command who 
had been wounded in a battle with the Indians at Chatham. Weary and dis- 
spirited, they ceased their explorations here, and returned to Port Royal, naming 
these sad shores “Isle Douteuse.” In 1641, Mayhew was made Governor of 
the Islands, his sway extending here. In 1659, he deeded $ of the island to ten 
men for £30 and two beaver hats, and one family moved there, there being then 
700 friendly Indians on Nantucket. 

In 1665 King Philip visited his people here, and in 1671 the town was incor¬ 
porated (at Maddequet, 5 - 6 M. W. from the present town), and in 1672 moved to 
its present place. In 1672 the first whale was taken. In 1673 the town was called 
Sherburne by the New York Governor, in whose domain it was until 1693 (the 
name was retained till 1795). The 700 English had no church or pastor, though 
the Indians had four churches. A white church was formed in 1711. In 1755 -6 
9 whaling-sloops were sunk or captured, and but few men of their crews ever re¬ 
turned. In 1764, there were 3,220 whites on the island ; and a plague, the same 
year, swept off § of the Indians, leaving but 136. 1,600 Nantucket men died in 

the Continental Army. In 1784 the population was larger than it is now. In 
1821, 78 ships and SI smaller vessels were owned here, and mostly engaged in 
whaling. The last Indian died in 1S22. Notwithstanding devastating fires in the 
town, Nantucket in 1840 had 9,712 inhabitants. 

The town (400 buildings) was burned down in 1846, and the same year 
the whaling business began to decline, until now there is but one small 
vessel engaged in it, and in the town which has houses for 10,000 people 
there are but about 4,200. The houses are of a quaint old style, with 
platforms on the roofs (whence to watch the ships coming in). The North 
Church was the first on the island, and was built in 1711. It is still used 
by the same society as a vestry, and its oaken timbers are hard as iron. 
\ M. from the Ocean House, on Centre St., is a small house which was 
built in 1682. The hospitality of the old families of Nantucket is famous, 
and its churches and schools are numerous. Many houses have been 
taken down and shipped away, but of late real estate is rising, as city 
men are securing summer homes here. Main St., at the head of which 
is the old Pacific Bank, has the shops of the town (shells and marine 
curiosities may be bought here), and is a wide, deserted, grassy street lead¬ 
ing to the heads of silent and decaying wharves. The low, sandy beach 
which shelters the harbor stretches N. W. 8-9 M. to Great Point, leav¬ 
ing a wide and quiet lagoon between it and the island. At the Athenaeum 
is a public library and a museum of marine curiosities and relics of the 
older days of Nantucket. The Squantum is a peculiar institution of the 
island, being an informal picnic on the beach-sands, where the dinner is 
made of fish or other spoils of the sea. Excursions to the fishing grounds 
are managed by veteran skippers, who let themselves and their boats 
cheaply. There are rides to the ancient districts on the W. shore, to the 
beaches on the S. shore, and to Siasconset. Siasconset (Atlantic House) 
is 8 M. S. of E. from the town, and consists of a cluster of cottages on a 
high bank fronting the ocean. Surf-bathing here is safe only when the 


G2 RouteS. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


bathers use ropes, as the shore descends rapidly. 1 M. N. of Siasconset 
is Sankoty Head, where a powerful Fresnel light is elevated on a far-view¬ 
ing bluff 90 ft. high. 1 M. N. of Sankoty Head is the beautiful Sesacacha 
Pond, of pure, sweet water and abounding in fish (small inn on the shore). 
In 1676 a village was built on this pond and remained for 140 years ; but 
its last house was torn down in 1820. Most of the island, over which 
rambles may be made, consists of high, breezy, sea-viewing plains, where 
but few fences or houses are seen, and which “the traveller will call 
downs, prairies, or pampas, as he happens to come from England, the 
West, or Buenos Ayres.” 

8. Boston to Hew York. 

Via Boston and Providence R. R., and Shore Line to "New York (in 8 hrs.), or 
by steamer from Providence, or by steamer from Stonington (in 12-13 hrs.) 

The train leaves the station in Boston (PI. 29), (on Pleasant St., at the 
foot of the Common), and passes the suburban stations, Roxbury , Jamaica 
Plain, and Hyde Park, by Readville (where during the war for the 
Union the State had a vast camp), to Canton, (Massapoag House, 
Ponkapaug House), a large manufacturing town. Canton was the seat 
of a large Indian village, where the Apostle Eliot was wont to preach, 
and in 1845 several pure-blooded Indians remained. From Blue Hill 
(635 ft. high), E. of the village, is gained a fine * view of Boston and its 
harbor, the ocean, and many btfsy villages. 

Commodore Downes, who commanded the Essex, Jr., when Porter swept the 
Pacific, was engaged in the Tripolitan War, and in 1815 captured the Algerian 
frigate “ Nasliouda,” was born at Canton. His son commanded the gunboat 
“ Heron ” and the monitor “ Nahant,” in the War for the Union. 

Near a massive granite viaduct (600 ft. long, 63 ft. high), in this town, the 
Stoughton Branch R. R. leaves the main line, running 4 M. to Stoughton, on the 
Old Colony R. R. 

Sharon (Cobb’s Tavern) is in a hilly and picturesque manufacturing town. 
E. Foxboro', Mansfield (Eagle Hotel), whence a railroad runs through 
Norton and Taunton to New Bedford (Route 9). W. Mansfield, Attle¬ 
borough, a considerable manufacturing town (jewelry, &c.), Dodgeville, 
Hebronville , and Pawtucket , where the line enters the State of Rhode 
Island. 

Pawtucket (Pawtucket Hotel, Park House) was the scene of a bloody 
action in 1676. Capt. Pierce, with 70 men, was driven back to the rivet 
by the Indians, and Ins party was fairly showered with arrows. When 
help came, not one man was living. At present, Pawtucket is the princi¬ 
pal thread manufactory in America, and steam fire-engines, rope, braid, 
&c., are made here. The Dunnell Manufacturing Co. has 36 buildings, 
and prints 22,500,000 yards of calico yearly. The Pawtucket Tack Co. 
makes 360,000,000 tacks yearly, and 35,000,000 spools are made here 
every year. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route S. 63 


Providence. 

Providence (City Hotel, $4-4.50 a day, Aldrich House; Central 
Hotel, 6-10 Canal St., European plan), is the second city, in wealth 
and population, of New England, and a semi-capital of Rhode Island. 
It is beautifully situated on hills at the head of Narragansett Bay, 
a cove of which lies far in the city and is surrounded by promenades. 
The view of the city from the Bay, or from the heights E. of the river, is 
very pleasing. The China trade was once largely enjoyed by Providence, 
but since its loss the energies of the citizens have turned to manufactures, 
and now large jewelry, iron, stove, and locomotive works are kept going. 
The Corliess engines, the Peabody rifles, the Gorham silver-ware, Perry 
Davis’s Pain-Killer, and millions of cigars are made here. 44 banks take 
care of the money. 

Providence was founded and named by Roger Williams, who was banished from 
Massachusetts in 1636, for his advanced ideas relative to Church and State. He 
was born in Wales, 1599, educated at Pembroke College, Cambridge, and preached 
for some time at Salem, Mass. After his exile he settled at Seekonk, whence he 
was soon warned away by the Governor of Plymouth. In a canoe, with five 
companions, he dropped down the river, until, in passing a cove (near the present 
India St. Bridge), he was hailed by some Indians with the words, “What cheer, 
Netop? ” (friend). He landed in this cove on the celebrated What Cheer Rock, 
and then coasted around to the mouth of Providence River, where he landed and 
remained. This was in June, 1636. Soon after he visited the Sachem Canonicns (on 
Canonicut Island) and received a grant of theTand hereabouts. In 1639 Williams 
became a Baptist, and in 1643-4 went to England, and got a charter for the new 
colony. In King Philip’s War, every house between Stonington and Bridgewater 
(save Providence) was destroyed, and the little colony was once fiercely attacked, 
and lost 30 houses. In the royal census of 1730,'Providence had 3,916 inhabitants. 
De Warville visited it in 1788, and reported it “ decayed, and in the silence of 
death.” In 1S00, it had 7,614 inhabitants, and in 1870, 68,904. 

The R. R. station, fronting on Exchange Place, is a large, handsome 
building, near which is a costly * monument, erected by the State in 
honor of her dead soldiers. The base of this work is of blue Westerly 
granite, bearing the arms of the U. S., and of R. I. Surrounding this 
are four 7-ft. bronze statues representing the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, 
and the Navy; above which is a statue of militant America (10 ft. high); 
bearing a sword and laurel wreath in one hand, and a wreath of immor¬ 
telles in the other. The names of 1,680 R. I. soldiers who died in the War 
for the Union are inscribed on the monument, which was designed by 
Randolph Rogers, of Rome. Near Exchange Place, and parallel to it, is 
Westminster St., the main thoroughfare of the city. From this street to 
Weybosset St. runs the Arcade, a fine granite building (built 1828), on 
the plan of the European “galleries,” containing a great number of shops 
ranged along a glass-roofed promenade. In the vicinity is the massive 
granite building of the Custom House and Post Office. The most notable 
churches are St. Joseph and St. Mary (Roman Catholic), the Union 
Congregational, the Roger Williams Baptist, the ancient First Baptist 
(society founded 1639), Grace Church, and St. Stephen’s (Episcopal), a 


64 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


massive edifice of rugged "brown stone, with a deeply recessed chancel, an 
ornate roof, and richly stained windows. There are 59 churches in the 
city. In the S, part, and fronting on the harbor, is the stately building 
of the * R. I. Hospital, surrounded by pleasant grounds. Some distance 
S. of this, the city is preparing a park on the bold shores of the Narra- 
gansett Bay. 

On the E. side of Providence River are two long business streets and a 
line of heights covered with residences. On N. Main St., near Presi¬ 
dent, is the quaint old church of the First Baptist Society, and beyond it, 
on the corner of S. Court St., is the small brick building used for the 
State House. Fine views of the “ seven hills of Providence ” are gained 
from Benefit St. above the State House. On the comer of College and 
Benefit Sts. is the * Athenaeum, a sturdy little granite building, con¬ 
taining a library of 32,000 volumes. Several busts are preserved here, and 
some fine paintings, among which are a copy of Stuart’s Washington, 
by Allston; portrait of Channing, Allston ; Charles II., long thought to 
be by Van Dyk, now held to be by Caspar ; portraits of Gen. Greene, J. 
G. Percival, and Phillips Brooks; * portrait of a young lady, (his niece ?) 
reading, by Sir Joshua Reynolds , one of his finest works. But the gem 
of this collection is Malbone’s masterpiece, * “ The Hours,” painted in 
water-colors on a sheet of ivory 6 inches by 7, and presented to the 
Athenaeum in 1853, by 130 subscribers. The picture represents Eunomia, 
Dice, and Irene, the Past, Present, and Future. The President of the 
Royal Academy said of it to Monroe, “ I have seen a picture, painted by 
a young man by the name of Malbone, which no man in England could 
excel.” On the heights near the Athenaeum is the line of buildings 
(R. I. College, Hope, Manning, and University Halls, &c.), pertaining to 
Brown University. There is here a fine library of about 40,000 volumes, 
a museum of Natural History containing 10,000 specimens; and in the 
portrait gallery 38 portraits, some of which are of value. 

Rhode Island College was founded at Warren in 1764, and removed to Provi¬ 
dence in 1770. Its buildings served as a hospital for the Franco-American army 
during great part of the Revolution. Nicholas Brown, and others of that dis¬ 
tinguished R. I. family, having greatly aided the college, in 1804 its name was 
changed to Brown University. Two thirds of the Boards of Fellows and Trustees 
are required by the charter to be Baptists. 

The hall of the R. I. Historical Society is near the University, and 
contains many relics of the Indians and early settlers, together with 6,000 
books, 30,000 pamphlets, and 7,000 MSS. On Hope St., N. W. of the 
University, are the extensive buildings, surrounded by fine grounds, of the 
Dexter Asylum (for the poor), near which are the ornate buildings of the 
Friends’ Boarding School. The Butler Hospital for the Insane has large 
and stately edifices, surrounded by 115 acres of ornamental grounds, on 
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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 65 


(which is the boundary of Massachusetts). N. of the Butler Hospital 
is Swan Point Cemetery, a beautiful rural necropolis on undulating 
ground near the river. The Reform School and the Home for Aged 
Women are in the S. E. part of the city. Near the E. end of Power St., 
on the banks of the river, is the What Cheer Rock, on which Roger 
Williams first landed. N. of the Cove (near the R. R. Station), is the 
Rhode Island State Prison. 

Environs of Providence. 

On the N. (4| M.) is the great manufacturing town of Pawtucket. 
Cranston (4 M. to the W.) is a busy working place, which has the Narra- 
gansett Trotting Park, famous in R. I. races. The mile elliptical track is 
entered through a fine towered gateway, and the grand stand contains 
5,000 seats. Hunt’s Mill, § M. distant, is a favorite drive. Steamers 
leave Providence almost hourly in summer for the popular resorts on 
the Bay, and four times daily for Newport. Sassafras Point, Robin Hill, 
with its old fort, and' Field’s Point, are passed soon after leaving the city, 
and then Ocean Cottage (hotel) is reached, on the E. shore. The sturdy 
lighthouse, in the Bay beyond, is on Pomham Rock, named after a brave 
sachem of the Narragansetts who was killed in battle with the English, in 
July, 1676. The steamer now stops at Yue de l’Eau, a large hotel on the 
E. shore, commanding a fine view of the Bay. Smith’s Palace is on the W., 
after which comes the favorite Silver Spring House (on the E.). Pawtuxet 
village (5 M. from Providence, on the W. shore) has sandy shores which 
afford good bathing. After rounding Sabin’s Point on the E., the Cedar 
Grove House (30 rooms, 4 bowling alleys), with its cottage village, is seen 
on a high bluff. At Gaspee Point, below Pawtuxet, the British sloop-of- 
war “ Gaspee ” grounded while chasing a small American vessel. On the 
following night (June 17, 1772,) a band of Providence men surprised the 
“ Gaspee,” captured and landed her crew, and then burnt the vessel. Bul¬ 
lock’s Point (on theE.) and Mark Rock (on the W.), ‘‘the Natchez of 
Rhode Island,” the sandy Canimicut Point with its lighthouse, and 
Nayatt Point, on the opposite shore, are rapidly passed, and then the steamer 
passes out into the Bay proper. Rocky Point (Rocky Point Hotel, on 
the European plan, accommodating 700 guests) is soon reached. This 
Point is midway between Providence and Newport, and is one of the most 
joyous and attractive resorts in New England. A lofty tower near the 
hotel affords a noble * view, including Providence and Newport, Fall 
River, Bristol, and Warren, and many other towns, with the whole sweep 
of the Bay. The wild and cavernous rock-formations, the free menagerie, 
and the elevated railway, are some of the attractions. 250 persons are 
employed here through the summer ; from the hotel telegrams may be 
sent all over the Union. But the chief excellency of “ the crown of 


66 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Narragansett Bay ” is the dining-room (seating 1,500 persons), where fish 
and clams are served up in every shape. The clam-bakes of Rocky Point 
are unrivalled in the world. Soon after, the steamer passes Warwick 
and its lighthouse, and along Prudence Island (6 M. long), near which 
are the islets of Patience, Hope, and Despair. S. of Prudence Island is 
the widest part of the Bay, and Warwick village is visible on the W. 
shore. The course now lies between Rhode and Canonicut Islands, pass¬ 
ing several smaller islets, and running under the frowning walls of Fort 
Adams into the Harbor of Newport. 

The Providence, Warren, and Bristol R. R. leaves its station at Fox 
Point, crosses the Seekonk River, and passes the popular resorts on the E. 
shore. Stations, India Point, Boston Switch, Vue de l’Eau, Drownville, 
Nayatt, Barrington and Warren. The latter town (Cole’s Hotel, estab¬ 
lished in 1762) is a busy manufacturing place on the E. shore of Narra¬ 
gansett Bay. It is a nursery of sailors, and has a well-protected harbor. 
The Sachem Massasoit had his favorite dwelling here on his territory of 
Sowamset, near a spring which is still called after his name. The Warren 
Veteran Artillery has two cannon which were made at Strasbourg in 1760, 
taken from the French at Montreal, surrendered with Burgoyne at Sara¬ 
toga, and used in the Dorr Rebellion (1842). A railroad runs from 
Warren to Fall River. 

The next station, 4 M. S. of Warren, is Bristol (a small hotel). This 
town is a pleasant summer-resort, and is built on a high peninsula sloping 
to a deep, safe harbor. Three wide, grassy streets run down the penin¬ 
sula, — Water St., near the harbor ; Main St., with St. Michael’s (Epis.) 
Church, and two or three old colonial mansions; and High St., with the 
common, the poor county buildings, and a fine Cong, church, in rambling 
mediaeval architecture. From this broad and quiet street may be seen 
Mount Hope, where was “King Philip’s seat” (Arnold), or “Philip’s 
sty at Mount Hope ” (Palfrey). 

King Philip, or Metacomet, was the son of Massasoit, and chief of the Wam- 
panoags. After enduring various aggressions from his white neighbors, in 1671, 
the Plymouth people demanded that all the Indians should give up their arms, 
and Philip demurred at this. Then, travelling throughout New England, he 
formed a powerful anti-English league, and attacked the colonies in 1675. After a 
long war conducted with unexampled ferocity by both combatants, his power 
was broken by the Narragansett Fort Fight, and the repulse from Taunton. 
Having decimated the colonists and destroyed many of their -fairest towns, 
he was hunted down and shot near the foot of Mount Hope, in midsummer, 
1676. During the war 600 colonists were killed, and 12 towns were destroyed. 

In 1680 the peninsula was bought from the Government by a company of Bos¬ 
ton capitalists, who divided it into lots, and sold the land to actual settlers. In 
Oct., 1775, three British frigates bombarded Bristol, and in 1778 a raiding party 
of British soldiers plundered this town and Warren. 

Fine yachts are made at Bristol, also cotton goods and refined sugars, while 
an immense rubber manufactory does a business of $2,000,000 a year. 

The Providence and Worcester R. R. runs from Providence to Worcester (Route 
10); and the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. R. runs W. to Hart ord and 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


RouteS. 67 


Waterbary (Route 11). A daily line of steamers runs between Providence and 
New York, carrying passengers and freight. 

After leaving Providence, the Shore Line route to New York (Route 8, 
continued) runs S., passing the stations Elmville, Hill's Grove, Apponaug, 
and Greenwich (Updike House, Greenwich Hotel). Greenwich is a neat 
village on Cowesit Bay, and is the seat of a large Methodist Seminary. 
In 1641, a trading-post and inn were erected here on the great Southern 
road, or “ Pequot Path.” Its site is now occupied by the Updike House, 
into which many of its timbers are built. At this post the Mass, and 
Plymouth forces met before the Narragansett Fort Fight (1675), and 
hither they retreated with their wounded. 

Old Warwick is a few miles distant, across Cowesit Bay. Samuel Gorton, 
a layman who intruded into the arena of theological polemics, was banished 
from Plymouth in 1637, from Newport in 1641, from Providence in 1642, from 
Cranston later in the same year, and then settled on Shawomet. In 1643, 40 
soldiers from Boston came here, and took Gorton and 10 colonists to Boston, 
where they were tried and sentenced as “ damnable heretics,” and banished 
from America. The Earl of Warwick sent him back to Shawomet (which he 
named Warwick), and under that nobleman’s protection he spent the remainder 
of his life in launching anathematic treatises at Massachusetts and R. I., among 
which were “Simplicitie’s Defence against Seven-Headed Policy,” “Antidote 
against Pliarasaic Teachers,” &c. In 1652, the clerk of this unfortunate settle¬ 
ment was disfranchised on seven charges : first, for calling the officers of the 
town rogues and thieves; second, for calling all the town rogues and thieves; 
third, for threatening to kill all the mares in town. In 1676, the place was at¬ 
tacked and burnt. 

Nathaniel Greene was born at Warwick, in 1742. He led the R. I. brigade to 
Cambridge in 1775, commanded the left wing, and took the guns at Trenton, 
saved the army at the Battle of the Brandywine, and led a brigade at German¬ 
town, Moifmouth, and Newport. In 1780, he commanded the shattered Army of 
the South in its celebrated retreat across South and North Carolina into Virginia, 
and fought the drawn battle at Guilford C. H. In April, 1781, he was badly de¬ 
feated by Lord Rawdon, at Hobkirk’s Hill, and was repulsed from Fort 96, but 
in September he won the sanguinary and decisive battle of Eutaw Springs, which 
ruined the British hopes in the South. Congress presented him with a medal, a 
British standard, and two captured cannon, and the State of Georgia gave him a 
fine plantation near Savannah, where he resided until his death. 

George S. Greene, born at Warwick in 1801, commanded a division at Antietam, 
Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg; and in N. and S. Carolina during the rest of 
the war. 

Silas Casey, born at E. Greenwich in 1807, commanded a division of the Army 
of the Potomac, and was greatly distinguished in the sanguinary battle of Fair 
Oaks, May 31, 1862. 

The celebrated summer resort at Rocky Point is not far from Old Warwick. 

Station Wickford. The village ( Washington Hotel), a quaint and quiet 
old place, is on a broad bay, and is reached by a branch railroad in 2J M. 
(connecting with a steamer to Newport daily). In the edge of the village 
is a curious square Episcopal church, which was built in 1706, and has 
been long deserted. 

Station Kingston. The village ( Kingston House) is on the heights, 2 
M. E. of the station, and contains the county buildings of Washington 
Co. 9 M. from the station (carriages in waiting) is the fashionable sea¬ 
side resort at Narragansett Pier. 


68 Route S. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Hotels. * Tower Hill House, a noble building on Narragansett Heights, which 
overlook the whole Bay, is 3 M. from the shore (horse-cars); Delavan House; 
Continental House ; Maxson, Hazard, Ocean, Metatoxet, Sea-View, Elmwood, 
Narragansett, Matthewson, Atlantic, Atwood, Revere, Mount Hope, and others. 
Most of these hotels accommodate 60 - 80 guests, and charge $ 12 - $ 18.00 a week. 
The Tower Hill, Atwood, and two or three others, are larger and more ex¬ 
pensive. 

Music, Lectures, &c., in Canoncliet Hall. A handsome Episcopal church, 
of stone, has recently been built. Narragansett Pier P. O. receives two mails 
daily. Steamers leave daily for Newport and Providence. 

In 1856, a family from Philadelphia came here, and "boarded at a farm¬ 
house near the beach. The next year they returned with some friends, 
and the farm was called the Narragansett Boarding-House. Summer 
visitors increased, until in 1867, the Atlantic (80 guests), the Atwood (175 
guests), and the Revere (50 guests) Houses ivere built. Other hotels 
were rapidly built, and in 1871, the Continental, Maxson, Mt. Hope, 
and Tower Hill Houses were finished. 

The Beach affords fine riding and bathing (light surf), and many fish 
are caught from the rocks. Narragansett is said to be more quiet and un¬ 
assuming than Newport, and its usual routine is bathing in the morning 
(when 3-400 persons may be seen in the surf), and croquet in the after¬ 
noon. Below the Pier is a mass of rocks, beyond which stretches the 
long line of Wolcott’s Beach. The noble and richly decorated mansion of 
the Sprague family is near the cluster of hotels. Every visitor should go 
to Narragansett Heights (3 M.), where the palatial Tower Hill Hotel 
stands on its 800-acre plateau, near Silver Lake, 400 ft. above the Bay. 
The* view is fine, extending over Newport and 10-12 villages^and cov¬ 
ering a horizon-line of 100 M. The Ocean, the Bay, Point Judith, and 
the lakes of S. Kingstown, are all visible. 4-6 M. W. of the Pier is 
Peacedale, with a fine stone church, and a large manufactory of woollen 
shawls. 

The road running S. W. from Peacedale, through Wakefield, passes the remains 
of the old Potter Palace, and the birthplace of Commodore Perry. 

John Potter was a magnate of the middle of the 18th century, who built here 
in Narragansett a fine mansion, richly frescoed throughout, surrounded by gar¬ 
dens, and kept by 100 slaves, where he used to receive company in baronial 
style. 

At and before this time large Quaker settlements were scattered through the 
district, and three of their deserted churches still remain in this town. 

Oliver Hazard Perry was born in 1785, of an old aristocratic family of Narra¬ 
gansett. He served as a midshipman in the Tripolitan War, and was put in com¬ 
mand of the squadron on Lake Erie, at whose head, Sept. 10, 1813, he won a bril¬ 
liant victory, and captured the entire British fleet. He died of yellow fever, at 
Trinidad, in 1819. His brother, Commodore M. C. Perry, born at Newport, 1794, 
was an active naval officer, chiefly distinguished for leading the Japan expedition 
in 1852 - 4, when he concluded an important treaty with that empire. 

Commodore Perry’s cousin, Stephen Champlin, Commodore in the U. S. Navy, 
was born here in 1789. He fired the first and last shots at the battle of Lake 
Erie, where he commanded the “Scorpion,” in Perry’s squadron. His services in 
the War of 1812 were important. 

G. C. Stuart, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born in this town in 1754. 
Most of the time from 1772 to 1793 he spent in London and Paris, and kept his 
studio at Boston, 1806-28. His portraits of Washington and other founders of 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 69 


the Republic are the best in existence, and show skill of the highest order in por¬ 
trait-painting. 

U M. from the Perry farm is the Potter Place, E. of which is the long, island- 
studded lagoon known as Point Judith Pond, abounding in fish. Point Judith 
is the site of an important lighthouse. 

The legend runs, that far back in the colonial days, a storm-tossed vessel was 
driven in towards the Narragansett shore. The captain, an ancient mariner, was 
at the wheel, watchful amid the perils of an unknown coast, when his bright¬ 
eyed daughter, Judith, called out to him, “Land, father ! I see the land !” His 
dim eyes could not discern the distant shore, and he shouted, “Where away? 
Point, Judith, point!” She did point, and he changed liis course, and left the 
surf-whitened cape far away under lee ; and when he reached port, the story of 
the fearless girl pointing out the danger from the storm-swept deck was told often 
and again among the sailors, so that the old sea-captains, when they passed this 
cape thereafter, repeated the story, and gave her name to the place. 

During much of the year 1778, the Count D’Esfaing’s fleet of 16 vessels, with 
933 cannon, was stretched across the Bay from Point Judith, and maintained an 
efficient blockade of the British forces at Newport. Admiral Lord Howe attacked 
D’Estaing with a large squadron, and after an indecisive battle and a severe storm, 
both fleets were forced to leave the Bay and refit. 

This town of S. Kingstown is the largest in the State, covering over 76 
square M. N. W. of Kingston, near the Exeter line, on a high, rocky 
hill, are the ruins of the Indian “ Queen’s Fort.” Part of the stone-wall 
remains, also a rock-chamber called the Queen’s Bedroom, where many 
arrows have been found. 

On a hill in the great pine and cedar swamp near Worden’s Pond (S. 
W. of Kingston) are the scanty remains of the Narragansett Fort 
(guide necessary, who can sometimes be obtained at the farm-houses on 
the edge of the swamp). 

At the time of the landing of the Pilgrims, the Narragansett Indians, unwasted 
by pestilence, ruled the E. There were 30,000 souls in this nation (Brinley), or 
according to Roger Williams, “12 towns within 20 M., with 5,000 warriors.” 
Gookin (1674) calls them an “active, laborious, and ingenious people,” and they 
were extensively engaged in trade and manufacture, supplying nearly all the New 
England tribes with pipes, pots, and wampum jewelry and coin. Their territory 
stretched from Wickford nearly to Westerly, with its largest villages in the vicin¬ 
ity (favorable for fishing or agriculture) of the great ponds in S. Kingstown. In 
their simple theology they looked forward to some mystic realms in the far S. W., 
where the gods and pure spirits dwelt, while the souls of murderers, thieves, and 
liars are doomed to wander abroad. They fought frequently with the Mohegans 
and Pequots, but lived more peaceably with the Massachusetts, which was the 
name they (living in a flat country) applied to the dwellers at Neponset, Milton, 
and Canton. It is from Massa (many) and Waschoe (mountains), and means the 
people of the many mountains (the high blue hills of Milton). Canonicus and 
Miantonomoh ruled from about 1600 to 1643 ; the former being “ a wise and peace¬ 
able prince” (Roger Williams), and the latter a “brave and magnanimous chief,” 
who gave lands freely to the R. I. colonists. But the unvarying friendship be¬ 
tween the settlers and this great tribe was ended in 1675, when the fiery eloquence 
and crafty subtlety of King Philip of the Wampanoags induced them to enter 
the anti-English confederation of the New England ti-ibes. The United Colonies 
took prompt action, and assembled 1,000 men under Gen. WinsloAv, on the verge 
of the tribal territory. Many of the Indians were campaigning with King Philip ; 
many fled to the N. W. ; and the rest abandoned their villages and took refuge in 
the ancient fortress of the tribe in the swamp near Worden’s Pond. After a long 
march through the snow in Dec., 1675, the colonial troops came in sight of the 
hill, covered with a system of embankments, palisades, and abatis, and defended 
by the flower of the Narragansetts. The Massachusetts men, in the van, dashed 
into the Fort through an enfiladed entrance, and after a furious struggle, being 


70 RouteS. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


unsupported, they were driven out with heavy Joss. The whole force now having 
arrived, a double attack was made ; the troops of Connecticut stormed the gate, 
and, while the attention of the whole Indian garrison was centred on that point, 
the Plymouth companies broke through the abatis and palisades op the other 
side, and attacked them in the rear. A bitter combat ensued, the Indians retir¬ 
ing to their wigwams and repulsing every attack of the colonials, who now held 
the walls. Fire was now applied to the wigwams, and spread rapidly, amid a 
scene of unutterable confusion and carnage. A band of chosen warriors dashed 
forth and cleared a way and covered the retreat of full 3,000 people, after which 
the colonials were left in full possession, having lost 80 men killed 'and 150 
wounded. 300 warriors were killed, and 600 prisoners taken, of whom most of 
the lighting men were either shot on Boston Common, died on Deer Island, or 
were sold into slavery. The tribe was annihilated. Nearly all the colonial captains 
were shot, and a considerable proportion of the wounded, borne through a road¬ 
less country in midwinter, scores of miles to the settlements, died on the way 
home. 

“The bitter cold, the tarled swamp, the tedious march, the strong fort, the 
numerous and stubborn enemy they contended with for their God, King, and 
country, be their trophies over death. ” — Conn. Legislature on ‘ ‘ those dead in 
the Fort Fight in Narragansett.” 

In 10 -12 min. after leaving Kingston Station, the train passes through 
the swamp where the battle took place. The next station is Carolina, 
with large woollen mills, 3 - 4 M. S. of which is a reservation, with church 
and school-house, where lives the scanty remnant of the Narragansett . 
tribe. Stations, Richmond Sicitch , Charlestown, Westerly (Dixon 
House, $3.00 a day). In 1665, a division of the Newport church 
moved to Westerly, and, in 1671, embraced the tenets of the Seventh 
Day Baptists, so if the traveller chances to be here on Saturday, he will 
find but little business going on, and the church bells ringing. Westerly 
is noted for its extensive manufactures, and, among other things, turns 
out every year 442 miles of flannel and 1031 miles of cotton and woollen 
cloths. Many summer visitors stop at the elegant Dixon House, and 
avail themselves of the steamer which rims semi-daily down the Pawcatuck 
River to 


Watch Hill Point. 

Hotels.— * Ocean House, on a far-viewing hill; Watch Hill House, 30-40 
years old, tlie first hotel here ; Larkin House, near the lighthouse ; Atlantic 
House, Dickens, Bay View, and Plimpton Houses. There is but little difference 
in these hotels, and the prices are somewhat less than those at Narragansett Pier. 

Steamers in summer run from Westerly to Watch Hill twice daily ; from 
Stonington 4-5 times daily ; from New London, daily ; and from Norwich, touch¬ 
ing at New London and Mystic, daily. 

Watch Hill Point, the S. W. extremity of R. I., is a high, bold promon¬ 
tory, from which the sandy Narragansett Beach runs E., while to the W. 
Napatree Beach, a narrow strip of sand, runs out to Sandy Point. From 
the top of the hill a good sea view is obtained, with Block Island to the 
S. E., Fisher’s Island to the S. W., and the town of Stonington close at 
hand in the W. From its fine views, excellent bathing beaches, and quiet 
and unpretentious hotels, this has become a favorite summer resort. 

In August, 1872, the passenger steamer “ Metis,” bound from New 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 71 


York to Providence, was run into by another vessel off this point. She 
sank in deep water, in the storm and night, and 25 or more of her passen¬ 
gers were lost. Most of the corpses, together with the deck of the vessel, 
were thrown up on Watch Hill Beach. 

. After Westerly comes Stonington (the * Wadawanuck House is a large 
summer hotel, commanding a fine water-view. It accommodates 140 
guests, and charges $ 4.50 a day ; large reduction for board by the 
season. There are one or two smaller houses here). 

This district (Pawcatuck) was claimed by Mass, as hers in right of “joint con¬ 
quest,” after the defeat of the Pequods, but was settled in 1649 from Connecticut. 
In 1801 it became a borough, about which time President Dwight wrote that “ Ston¬ 
ington and all its vicinity suffers in religion from the nearness of It. I.” Aug. 9, 
1814, the borough was attacked by the Ramilies, 74 ; the Pactolus, 38 ; and 
several other British vessels, which bombarded it for three days, throwing 60 tons 
of iron into it. Four attempts to land were repulsed with grapeshot, with heavy 
loss, and the Dispatch, 22, was seriously injured and driven off by a 3-gun battery 
on the point. The town was deserted by its people, and 50 soldiers were scattered 
through it to put out the fires. 

Stoniiigton is built on a narrow, rocky point, with quiet streets, embel¬ 
lished here and there by iron relics of 1814. 

Steamers from Stonington-to Watch Hill 6 times daily in summer (25c.). 

The Stonington Line of steamers (to New York) has fine boats which leave 
•this port on the arrival of the steamboat train from Boston (9 -10 P. M.), and 
arrive at New York early in the morning. This is one of the four great routes to 
New York, the others being the Fall River Steamboat Line, the Shore Line R. R., 
and the R. R. route via Springfield and Hartfcml. A new line,, via Willimantic 
and New Haven, is nearly ready for travel. 

A line of packets has heretofore run from Stoniiigton to Block Island, and a 
daily steamer is promised for the summer of 1873. 

Block Island (Mitchell House, Spring House) was named for Adrian Block, 
the Dutch discoverer, and was called by the Indians Manisees (the isle of the 
little god). The natives made most of the wampum (money) for the interior 
tribes. In 1636, they captured a Boston vessel near the island, and killed the 
crew, shortly after which a Conn, coaster ran down on her, raking the decks with 
musketry. 11 Indians jumped overboard and were drowned, but the rest took 
refuge in the hold. The coaster then towed her many leagues to sea, and, having 
removed her sails, let her go, in a fearful storm. To avenge the murder of the 
Boston sailors, Gov. Endicott (who had cut out the cross from the British flag 
with his rapier as “savoring of Popery”) campaigned on Block Island under the 
crossless flag and destroyed 2 large villages. The island sent 60 ft. of wampum 
to Boston for tribute, in 1638, and in 1661 an English settlement was made here, 
which was incorporated in 1672 as New Shoreham, and nearly destroyed by a 
raid from French vessels in 1690. 

Block Island is 8 M. long by from 2 - 4 M. wide, and is nearly cut in 
two by a great salt-water pond, S. of which is the thin village of New 
Shoreham, with 2 Baptist churches. There are many abrupt and un¬ 
covered hills, used for grazing. The men are mostly employed in fishing, 
and are of a simple, sturdy, and primitive race. The island belongs 
to R. I., and has about 1300 inhabitants, whose number is slowly decreas¬ 
ing. 

After Stonington comes the busy, ship-building village of Mystic (Hoxie 
House). 


7 2 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Near Mystic, on the N., is Peqnot Hill, which was attacked May 26th, 1637, by 
Mason, who had marched from Narragansett with 90 Englishmen, and 460 Mohe- 
gans and Narragansetts, under the Sachems Uncas and Miantonomoh. On 
arriving before the Fort, the Indian allies were afraid to attack, and drew off, 
whereupon the colonial soldiers prepared to do the work alone, and knelt down 
in prayer. (The Sachem Wequash, the guide of the forces, was amazed at this 
sight, and when he understood it, he became impressed and converted, and 
preached throughout New England until he sealed his faith by a glorious mar¬ 
tyrdom.) The English now moved steadily to the assault, and, favored by the 
darkness, succeeded in getting inside the palisades, but they were soon over¬ 
whelmed by vastly superior numbers, and fell back, after setting Are to the wig¬ 
wams. “The greatness and violence of the fire, the flashing and roaring of the 
arms, the shrieks and yells of men, women, and children within the Fort, and the 
shoutings of Indians without, just at the dawning of the morning, exhibited a 
grand and awful scene. The Narragansetts, Mohegans, and colonials surrounded 
the hill and shot down the fugitives. 600 Pequots were shot or burnt on this 
dreadful morning, which was a death-blow to the tribe. “It was a fearful sight 
to see them frying in the fire, and the streams of blood quenching the same, and 
horrible was the stink and scent thereof; but the victory seemed a sweet sacri¬ 
fice, and they gave the praise thereof to God.” Cotton Mather. 

4 M. from Pequot Hill (half-way to New London) is Fort Hill, where 
Sassacus, sachem of the Pequots, had his royal fortress. On hearing of 
the attack of Mason, the chief sent 300 of his best warriors, who caused 
the Indo-colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But meanwhile those 
who had remained in the fort revolted, and Sassacus, with his court and 
chiefs, was forced to flee to the Hudson River, whence they never 
returned, and the tribal organization was blotted out by the colonies, who* 
gave for slaves to the friendly tribes those remaining of the dreaded 
Pequots or “Destroyers.” * There is a noble view from Fort Hill (4 M. 
E. of New London) whfch embraces parts of 15 towns, 4 counties, 3 
States, 20 islands, 7 lighthouses, with New London, Stonington, Fort 
Griswold, and Fisher’s Island Sound. 

Groton is a very hilly township, and has but little good soil (in the 
river valley). In 1832, 40 Pequots were living here on a reservation, and 
still heartily hating the Narragansetts. Silas Deane, an early American 
diplomatist, who died in poverty and sorrow in a strange land, after hav¬ 
ing made successful negotiations with France, &c., was a native of Gro¬ 
ton. Between 1812 and 1819, 500,000 yards of cotton cloth were woven 
at home by women with hand-looms. 

Mystic Island, a quiet summer resort, is off the mouth of the river. 

After passing the station of Groton, the cars are ferried across the 
•Thames River to New London (Metropolitan House, $2.50. A new and 
elegant hotel is to be opened here in the summer of 1873). 

New London is a city of 9,576 inhabitants, on a granite-strewn declivity 
facing S. E., on a fine harbor, 3 M. long and 30 ft. deep. 

This was formeily known as Pequot Harbor, and was raided successiveiv bv 
Mason, Endicott, and Underhill, and was settled by John Winthrop Jr in 1645 
In 1658 the Connecticut Assembly resolved, “Whereas, this court considering 

* One authority says that Pequots means “ Gray Foxes.” 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. RouteS. 73 


that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in honor of the 
city of London, there being a new place, within this jurisdiction of Connecticut 
settled upon that fair river Mohegan in the Pequot country, being an excellent 
harbor, and a fit and convenient place for future trade, it being also the only place 
in these parts which the English possessed by conquest, and that upon a very 
just war, upon that great and warlike people, the Pequots, we, therefore, that we 
might thereby leave to posterity that we memory of that renowned city of Lon¬ 
don, from whence we had our transportation, have thought fit, in honor to that 
.famous city, to call the said plantation, New London.” In 1698, the pirate Capt. 
Kidd cruised along these shores, and buried on Gardiner’s Island 75 ounces of 
gold, 638 ounces of silver, and a large lot of precious stones, which were recov¬ 
ered by the Earl of Bellomont, governor at Boston, in 1699. During the Revolu¬ 
tion, the navy of Conn., consisting of 26 vessels, made New London its chief 
port; and here, in 1776, were landed the governor, officers, and plunder from New 
Providence (of the Bahamas), which had been captured by an American fleet. 
Sept. 5, 1781, the renegade raider Benedict Arnold appeared off the town with a 
fleet and a large force of British troops, and having taken Fort Trumbull he 
plundered and burnt New London. At the same time a strong detachment made 
an attack on Fort Griswold (across the river), which was defended by Col. Led- 
yard with 150 militia-men. The sharp fire of the Americans repulsed the first at¬ 
tack, but a bayonet-charge ensued, which carried the enemy into the fort. The 
British commander was killed on the rampart, and the Tory Capt. Bloomfield 
(from New Jersey) took his place. As he shouted, “Who commands this Fort?” 
Col. Ledyard gave him his sword, saying, “ I did command, sir; but you do 
now.” The infamous renegade ran Ledyard through with his own sword, where¬ 
upon a general massacre ensued, and 70 Americans were killed and 30 wounded 
after the surrender. In storming the Fort the British lost 191 men. 

An excursion should be made to Groton heights, where are the remains 
of old Fort Griswold, near which is a business-like 20-gun battery, in ad¬ 
mirable order, which protects the channel. Within stone’s-throw of the 
fading ramparts of the old Fort is a Monument to the massacred militia, 
— a noble granite shaft, 127 ft. high, and 26 ft. square at the base, on 
which is inscribed, “ Zebulon and Naphthali were a people that jeoparded 
their lives till death in the high places of the Lord.” A marble tablet at 
the base contains the names of the slain, which will be seen to run in 
families; out of 84 names, 9 are Averys, 6 Perkinses, 4 Allyns, 4 Lesters, 
&c. The ascent of the inside of the monument should be made (key, 10 
c. at small house close to the monument). From the top a * view is 
gained which is “ charming for the student of nature and yet more charm¬ 
ing for the student of the romance of American history.” — Lossing. To 
the W. is New London, with its spires and terraced streets, its shipping, 
Fort Trumbull’s massive walls, aiid up the river the widenings of the 
Thames where the U. S. is preparing a Navy Yard. On the E. are the 
stony hills of Groton, with Fort Hill 4 M. away ; and on the S. the. mouth 
of the Thames with its lighthouses, hotels, and summer-cottages. The 
long, irregular line of Fisher’s Island (9 M. long), belonging to New York 
and occupied by t.firee farms, is in the S. E. over which the ocean is seen, 
and, if the day is clear, Block Island may be made out with a strong 
glass. Many leagues to the S. E. over the W. end of Fisher’s Island, 
may be seen the white cliffs of Montauk Point. 

A steam-ferry (4 c.) leaves the foot of State St. every 15 min. for Gro- 
4 


7 4 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


ton. I M. E. of the old Fort, Col. Ledyard is huried under a monument 
erected by the State. 

New London is built on a declivity, which is ascended by State St. from 
the R. R. Station to the County Court House, passing on the r. the brown- 
stone City Hall and Post Office, and a fine Cong. Church of granite with 
a spire of the same material. Near the Court House is St. James’ Epis¬ 
copal Church, a large brown-stone edifice in whose chancel is buried 
Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the Republic. The English 
bishops (in 1784) would not consecrate him, but the office was performed 
by 3 bishops of the Scottish Episcopal Church, after which he preached 
at New London for 12 years. On Federal St. in a lofty situation is a 
massive and extensive Cong. Church, near which is an ancient cemetery 
which overlooks the harbor. The lofty towered new school-house on the 
hill, and the spacious (but unfinished) Catholic Church on Huntington 
St. are fine buildings. 1 M. N. is Cedar Grove Cemetery. Bank St. is 
the main business avenue of the city. Fort Trumbull is a massive and 
powerful granite fortress with a heavy armament, but built too near the 
city to keep it unscathed. 

“ New London is a stagnant old town, where nothing moves except the fish 
and the boats in the harbor. The natives, who loiter around comer groceries and 
fish-stalls, live so somnolently that, when anything happens, they pinch them¬ 
selves to determine if they are awake. Gatching fish and eating them compre¬ 
hend the whole of existence ; and sitting in the shade and smoking, the highest 
luxuries they long for.” Such is Junius Browne’s slightly exaggerated descrip¬ 
tion. 

Cod and whale fishing is extensively carried on from this port, and iu 
the summer of 1872, 6 vessels sailed thence to hunt seals about the S. 
Shetland Isles. 

The Harbor road leads by Fort Trumbull, and through a line of cot¬ 
tages, in 3 - 4 M. to the mouth of the Thames, near which is the * Pequot 
House, a costly and exclusive aristocratic resort, which accommodates 
about 500 guests, at $5 a day each. A village of pretty cottages has 
grown up in this vicinity. On the opposite side of the Thames is the 
Ocean House (quieter and much less expensive) and Thompson’s Hotel. 

Steamers run twice daily (in summer) to Watch Hill Point. A line runs also to 
Sag Harbor, Long Island. Two steamers leave daily for New York (distance 126 
M.) by the Norwich Line. 

The New London Northern Division of the Vermont Central R. R. runs N. W. 
from this city to Palmer, Amherst, and the State of Vermont. 

After leaving New London the Shore Line R. R. passes Waterford 
(Niantic Hotel,) and E. Lyme, where at the village of Niantic (Howard 
House), on the bay of the same name, are found fishing and boating ad¬ 
vantages. This territory, from the Thames to the Connecticut, was 
formerly held by the Niantic Indians, a clan of the Narragansetts, who 
under their sacheip, Ninigret (brother of Canonicus, and uncle of Mian- 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. - 75 


tonomoh) conquered the Long Island Indians. The colonies declared 
war against Ninigret twice, on absurd pretexts, but he escaped without 
fighting, though his territories were ravaged, and in King Philip’s War 
he kept his people from attacking the English. His great-grandson was 
sachem of the clan in 1746, and, selling the reservation in Lyme, moved 
his people to the Oneida country in New York. Lyme was settled in 
1664, and long disputed about its boundaries with New London, until 
two champions were chosen by each plantation, who met on the debata¬ 
ble ground, and in a pugilistic contest, in which the Lyme men were 
victorious, their town secured the boundary which it claimed. Shortly 
after passing the venerable hamlet of Old Lyme (on the r.) the railroad 
crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge, and stops at Saybrook, 
whence trains on the Conn. Valley R. R. rim S. to Saybrook Point and 
the shore. 

On Saybrook Point a fort was built by Plymouth in 1635, and well armed, 
several of the cannon remaining here in 1800. In 1636 Col. Fenwick came here to 
rule the plantation, which was named in honor of Lord Say and Sele, and Lord 
Brook. In 1637 the Pequots ambushed and destroyed a detachment near the 
fort, and attempted to carry the works by assault, but were received with such 
discharges of grapeshot that they gave it up, and, capturing several vessels 
above the Point, put their crews to death with horrible tortures. Lady Fenwick 
died in 1648, and her husband sold the territory to Conn., returned to England, 
and was one of the regicide judges. The fort effectually prevented Dutch vessels 
from ascending to reinforce Hartford, and in 1615 forced Andros’s fleet to lie out¬ 
side of the river. Springfield vessels refused to pay the toll demanded at the 
Fort, and appealed to Mass., which put a toll on all Conn, vessels entering Boston 
Harbor, and soon enforced a colonial reciprocity. In 1701, Yale College was 
chartered and located at Saybrook, and remained there 1707 -17, where it held its 
first 15 commencements. It then occupied a one-story building 80 ft. long on the 
peninsula near the Fort. The celebrated Saybrook Platform was drawn up here 
in 1708, because “the churches must have a public profession of faith agreeable 
to which the instruction of the college shall be conducted.” On Good Friday, 
1814, 400 British sailors, in the boats of the “La Hogue,” 74, took the Fort and 
ascended the river 20 M. destroying 27 vessels. The commander of this raid was 
Sir William E. Parry, afterwards famous for his Arctic voyages. “The steep, 
solitary hill near the river,” on which still stood the remains of the Fort, was cut 
away by the railroad in 1871-2, to make embankments with. It is fortunate that 
the Acropolis and the temples of Baalbec are not in America. 

In the cemetery at Saybrook Point is the transplanted monument of 
Lady Fenwick, and L\ - 2 M. beyond is the quiet, elm-shaded, and wealthy 
village of Old Saybrook. 

The railroad now runs across a wide, cove, and stops close to * Fenwick 
Hall, an elegant new hotel, accommodating 300 guests. 

A stony strand leads to Lynde’s Point on the E. at the mouth of the 
river, with its lighthouse. On the W., near Cornfield Point, is a small 
bathing-beach. Several fine cottages are near Fenwick Hall, from which 
the Long Island shore is seen. In seasons of long adverse winds, a fleet 
of 150-200 sail sometimes collects in the mouth of the river. 

Steamers running between Hartford and the river villages and New York, New 
London, and Sag Harbor touch at Saybrook Point. 

The Connecticut Valley R. R. runs from Saybrook Point to Hartford (Route 14). 


7 6 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


After Sayhrook, the Shore Line R. R. passes Westbrook (Westbrook 
Hotel) and Clinton (Clinton House, Bacon House), near which, on the 
N., is the pretty and secluded village of Killingworth {Redfield s Hotel) 
where Asahel Nettleton, the evangelist, was horn in 1783. Ihe Indian 
name of this place was Hammonasset, hut the settlers changed it to Kenil¬ 
worth, which was registered, by accident, Killingworth. The pastor of 
this parish was chosen first President of Yale College, hut as he refused 
to go to Sayhrook, the students were obliged to come to him, and so the 
college was practically here, 1701 - 7, though holding its commencements, 
at Sayhrook. Longfellow’s poem, “The Birds of Killingworth,” will be 
remembered here. Stations, Madison (Hammonasset House), E. River , 
and Guilford. Guilford (Guilford House) was settled by 4 immigrants 
from Kent and Surrey in 1639, on the Indian tract called Menuncatuck. 
They were led by their pastor, Henry Whitefield, “ a man of marvellous 
majesty and sanctity.” The regicides were hidden here for some time, 
and in 1781 3 frigates landed a force near the village, but the rapidly 
gathering militia drove them off. During the extermination of the 
Pequots, in 1637, the Mohegan Sachem Uncas pursued a Pequot chief to 
this point, and having shot him on the shore, put his head in the fork of 
an oak-tree, where it stayed many years, and the point is still called 
Sachem’s Head. 

Fitz Green Halleck, the versatile poet, was bom at Guilford in 1790, and in his 
later years retired here and lived on a handsome pension allowed him by the As- 
tors, of New York. He died in 1867. 

W. H. H. Murray, the popular pulpit orator, and pastor of Park St. Church, 
Boston, since 1868, was bom at Guilford in 1840. 

The village is a very pretty one, built around an extensive tree-studded 
and enclosed green, on which 5 churches front. 

Near the village on the S. is Guilford Point (Pavilion, Guilford Point 
House, &c.), and across the harbor is the bold and picturesque promontory 
of Sachem’s Head, where formerly stood a large hotel. 

Station, Stony Creek (Stony Creek, Brainerd, Thimble Island, and In¬ 
dian Point Houses, all small and inexpensive), famed for its large and 
delicious oysters. The romantic group of the Thimble Islands lies off 
shore here, and may be reached by boat from the Indian Point Hotel 
(25- 50 c.). On Money and Pot Islands are small and primitive hotels, with 
cabins and cottages, while around and between these rocky and wooded 
islets rowing and sailing is full of pleasant surprises. Money Island was 
one of the rover Capt. Kidd’s resorts, and it has been dug all over by 
treasure-seekers. 

Station, Branford , (Branford House, on land sold by the .Sachem 
of Quinnipiac to the English in 1638, he being glad to get an ally against 
the dreaded Mohawks. It was named from Brentford, where Edmund 
Ironside fought the Danes. The shore hereabouts is lined with sum- 



















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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 77 


mer hotels, —the Montana, Sea View, Totocket, Pine Orchard, &c. On 
Indian Neck are the Indian Neck and Montowese (200 guests) Houses, 
both about 2 M. from Branford station. At the head of “ the rocky- 
shored and island-sprinkled bay of Branford ” is the large * Branford 
Point House (160-200 guests), distant 8 M. from New Haven, and near 
by is the favorite Double Beach House (100 guests, $3-3.50 a day). 

In 1665, the colonies of Hartford and New Haven were united by royal 
order and the common consent. The people of Branford had steadily 
opposed this union, and when it was consummated, they moved in a solid 
body, headed by their pastor, and bearing all their household goods, to 
Newark, N. J., and the site of Branford was silent and deserted for 
years. 

Station, E. Haven, an ancient resort of the Indians (for oysters, &c.), 
and the seat of iron-works in 1655, now has large copper-smelting works. 
The train now passes Saltonstall Lake, crosses the Quinnipiac River, runs 
through Fairhaven , and enters 

New Haven. 

Hotels. * New Haven House, corner College and Chapel Sts., opposite the 
College, $4 — 4.50 a day; * Tontine Hotel, corner Church and Court Sts., a quiet 
old house fronting the Green, $3 a day ; Tremont House ; Park House ; Madison 
House, &c. 

Restaurants. Lockwood’s Dining-Rooms near the Park ; the Florence House, 
Union St., and for a lunch, Hoadley’s, near the college and a famous resort of the 
students. The best oysters may be had in Fairhaven. 

Carriages. The regular tariff is 50 c. for one passenger for one course in the 
city, or for two passengers 35 c. each. 

Horse-Cars (head-quarters at the foot of the Green) run to Fairhaven and 
E. Haven, to W. Chapel St., to Westville and W. Rock, to Centreville, to E. 
Rock, and in summer to W. Haven and Savin Rock. 

Telegraph Offices. Western Union, on Chapel St., near R. R. Station ; 
Franklin Co., on State, near Chapel St. Post Office on Church St. near Chapel St. 

Reading-Rooms. In the hotels, and at the Young Men’s Institute, Phoenix 
Building, Chapel St. Also at the Young Men’s Christian Association rooms, over 
the City Bank, corner of Chapel and Orange Sts. 

Amusements. Popular lectures, theatrical entertainments, concerts, &c. 
are frequently held in Music Hall (accommodating 2,500 persons) on Crown St. 
between Temple and Church Sts. 

Railroads. At this point converge the New Haven, New London, and Ston- 
ington R. R. (see preceding pages) ; the New Haven, Middletown, and Williman- 
t:c (Air Line route, Boston to New York) ; the New Haven, Hartford, and Spring- 
field R. R. (grand route from Boston to New York, via Springfield) ; the New Haven 
and Northampton (Canal) R. R. ; the New Haven and Derby R. R. ; and the 
New York and New Haven R. R., which is the last division of all three of the 
land routes from Boston (see succeeding pages). 

Steamboats. Steamers leave for New York twice daily (morning and even¬ 
ing) making the voyage in 5 hours. Fare $ 1, dinner and state-rooms extra. The 
Citizens’ Line runs boats to New York every morning. Steamers run (in summer, 

4 times daily) to the beaches at the mouth of the harbor. 

Stages run from New Haven to Hartford via Durham, to North Branford and 
Deep River, &o. 

John Davenport (of Magdalen College), a powerful parish pastor of London, 
joined the Puritan wing of the Anglican Church, and in 1637 was forced to leave 
England, with many of his people. After nearly a year’s sojourn at Boston, he 
set sail with his people, and landed at Quinnipiac, the present site of New Haven, 


7 8 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


in April, 1638. His was “ the most opulent colony which came into New Eng¬ 
land,” and they laid out a city with 9 squares for buildings enclosing a large cen¬ 
tral square (the Green), though their houses only occupied then a small space on 
the present George St., between Church and College Sts. The colony was gov¬ 
erned for many years by its 7 most prominent church-members, after a curious 
and impressive sermon by Davenport from the text, “ Wisdom hath builded her 
house; she hath hewn out her 7 pillars.” One of the chief of these.was the 
pure and learned Davenport, who was revered by the Indians as “so big study 
man,” and for whom Cotton Mather composed 

“Epitaphium Johnannes Davenportus, in Portum delatua. 

Vivns, Nov-Angliaa ac Ecelesi* Ornamentum, 

Mortuus, utriusque triste Desiderium.” 

In 1638 the 7 pillars bought of the Indians 130 square M. of land for 13 coats, 
and in 1639 the truculent Nepaupuek was tried for murder and beheaded on the 
Green, where his head was long exposed. The trading-posts of New Haven on 
the Delaware River were broken up by the Swedes, and other losses combined 
to discourage the settlers, who resolved to go to Jamaica, and then completed 
negotiations to buy Galloway, in Ireland. The ship which bore their “commer¬ 
cial estates,” sailed under Capt. Lamberton for Galloway, in Jan., 1647, but never 
was heard from afterwards, save when, as the legend says, the spectre of the ship 
sailed into the harbor in the teeth of a head-wind, and when in full view of the 
anxious people, it slowly melted into thin air, and vanished. The colonists 
remained at New Haven, and in 1665 this plantation was united with that of Con¬ 
necticut (Hartford) on condition that each town should retain the dignity of cap¬ 
ital ; so to this day the State has two semi-capitals. In 1755, the “Conn. Gazette” 
was established here, and became the pioneer of the 8 weekly and semiweekly, 
and the 3 daily papers of New Haven. In Jan., 1761, 7 companies of militia and 
the council convened, and proclaimed George III. King, drinking to him, the 
royal family, and the King of Prussia. In 1775, Benedict Arnold (afterwards so 
famous and infamous) led to Cambridge the Governor’s Guards, the best company 
in the army. At sunrise, July 5th, 1779, 1,500-2,000 Hessians and Tories were 
landed at W. Haven Point, from 48 British vessels. They took the fort and 
town, which they plundered and partially burnt. They were much galled by the 
militia who hovered on their flanks and fought them in the streets. Rev. Dr. 
Napthali Daggett, President of Yale College, was captured by them with fowling- 
piece in hand, and forced to guide their columns. When wellnigh dead from 
mortification, and sore from repeated bayonet-wounds, he was asked, “Will you 
fight again?” The militant divine answered, “I rather believe I shall, if I have 
an opportunity.” He or another pastor of the town was forced to pray for the 
King, which he did as follows : “ O Lord, bless thy servant King George, and 
grant him wisdom, for thou knowest, O Lord, he needs it.” Yale College w>‘ 3 
transferred to New Haven in 1717. In 1820 the town had 8,326 inhabitants ; in 
1870 50,840. 

New Haven, “ The City of Elms,” a semi-capital of Conn., is "built on 
a flat, alluvial plain, at the head of a bay which sets in from Long Island 
Sound. It is a handsome city, of modern appearance, rich in stately elm- 
trees, and surrounded by picturesque hills. The city has a large West 
India trade, and has about $10,000,000 invested in manufactures, which 
in 1869 turned out 6,000 hay-cutters, 50,000 scales, 200,000 corsets, 1,200 
Eureka organs, 600 Colibri pianos, and about 20 carriages daily. Fish¬ 
lines, saws, Baumgarten church-organs, and cars are also made in great 
numbers, while Sargent & Co. employ 800 men in vast hardware works. 
Chapel, State, and Church are the principal streets, the two former in¬ 
tersecting near the cavernous railroad station. There are several hand¬ 
some churches here, and a very interesting old cemetery (on Grove St., 
at the head of High). 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route S. 79 


Among those buried here are Jehudi Aslimun, agent, fortifier, and defender of 
Liberia; Arthur Tappan, the philanthropist; Harry Crosswell, D. D., dashing 
political editor, 1802-14, and rector of Trinity Church, New Haven, 1815-58 ; N. 
W. Taylor, H. D., a disciple of Edwards and professor of didactic theology in 
Yale, 1823-58 ; Lyman Beecher, D. D., “ the most widely known and influential 
preacher in the country, between 1815 and 1851 ” ; Timothy Dwight, D. D., grand¬ 
son of Jonathan Edwards, a distinguished theologian and poet, and President of 
Yale, 1795-1817, who rode horseback through New England and N. Y. and pub¬ 
lished an account of it in 4 volumes, also a system of theology in 5 volumes ; Den¬ 
ison Olmsted, LL. D., professor of natural philosophy and astronomy at Yale, 
1825-59, and a profound astronomer ; C. A. Goodrich, D. D., theologian and 
lexicographer, professor of rhetoric at Yale, 1817-39; Noah Webster, LL. D., 
author and publicist, whose “ Elementary Spelling-Book ” had a sale of 50,000,000 
copies, and who prepared (1807 - 28) and published a Dictionary of the English 
language which has since been the standard ; Benjamin Silliman, professor of 
chemistry at Yale, 1802-55, one of the foremost scientists of his time ; Jedediah 
Morse, D. D., “the father of American geography”; S. F. B. Morse (born 1791, 
died 1872), who, in 1844, put in operation the first electric telegraph in the U. S., 
who was covered with honors by European sovereigns and societies, and in 1857, 
was presented with 400,000 francs by a continental assembly at Paris ; Elbridge 
Gerry, Vice-President of the U. S., 1812-16 ; R. S. Skinner, Gov. of Conn., 1844- 
6, and U. S. Senator, 1847-51 ; David Daggett, sometime Chief Justice, and U. S. 
Senator, 1813-19 ; S. W. S. Dutton, D. D., and Gov. Henry Dutton ; Prof. Mur¬ 
dock and Sidney E. Morse ; James Hillhouse, U. S. Senator, 1794-1S10, and James 
A. Hillhouse, the poet of Sachem’s Wood ; Andrew H. Foote, Rear-admiral U. S. 
Navy, born in New Haven, 1806, died 1863. He fought the West India and 
Sumatra pirates, and in 1856 attacked the 4 Barrier-Forts at Canton, China, with 
the “Portsmouth” and “Levant.” After a bombardment, at the head of 280 
men, he landed and stormed the forts in succession, though they were heavy 
granite works, mounting 176 cannon, and defended by 5,000 men. In 1862 (Feb. - 
April) in a short, sharp campaign at the head of the iron-clad squadron on the 
Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers, he assisted in the reduction of Forts Henry, 
Donelson, and Island No. 10. He was a very religious man, and was accustomed 
to preach to his sailors every Sunday. 

Jonathan Knight, professor of surgery at Yale, 1838-64; James L. Kingsley, 
pro lessor of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, at Yale, 1805-51 ; David Humphreys, 
the aid-de-camp and friend of Washington, and minister to Portugal and Spain, 
1790-1802; Theophilus Eaton, Gov. of the New Haven colony, 1638-57 ; Roger 
Sherman, from 1774 to 1793 a member of the Continental Congress, and a signer 
of the Declaration of Independence, who “never said a toolish thing in his life” 
(Jefferson); Theodore Winthrop, the knightly soldier (author of “ Cecil Dreeme,” 
“ Canoe and Saddle,” &c.), who was killed at the battle of Great Bethel, June 10, 
1861 ; Ezra Stiles, long President of Yale ; and Eli Whitney, the inventor of the 
cotton-gin. 

. Among the broad streets lined with noble elms which extend on the N. 
end W. of the Green, the most beautiful is Hillhouse Ave., a broad, 
park-like drive, flanked by fine mansions, at the head of which is the man¬ 
sion and domain, “ Sachem’s Wood,” belonging to the Hillhouses. In 
the W. part of the city is the Orphan Asylum, Alms House, and County 
Prison. But the chief interest of New Haven centres in and about the 
Public Green. Here, on Church St. is the City Hall, one of the most 
elegant municipal buildings in New England, and the Third Cong. Church. 
On Chapel St. is the lofty and pretentious new mercantile building of 
Hoadley. The Public Green itself is a great lawn, studded with fine 
trees, and often used for parades. The North, Centre, and Trinity 
churches stand in line near the middle of the Green (the first two are 
Cone;., and the last is Episcopal), and preserve a curiously ancient appear- 


80 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


ance. Back of the Centre Church is the monument to the regicide, John 
Dixwell, a member of a prominent Kentish family, a colonel in the Par¬ 
liamentary army, and a member of the British State Council, who fled to 
New Haven at the Restoration. Near him is buried a fellow-judge, 
Edward Whalley. On the Public Green, near Temple St., is the State 
House, a building in the simple and imposing Grecian Doric architecture, 
but constructed of brick and stucco, and presenting a very dingy appear¬ 
ance. The legislature meets here on the even-numbered years (1872,1874, 
&c.) and the alternate years the sessions are held at Hartford. Temple 
St., with a glorious * Gothic arch of elm-trees, separates the Green from 
the grounds of 

Yale College. 

In the year 1700 ten clergymen planned to erect a college in the colony of 
Conn., and to further that end, contributed as many books as they could spare, 
for its library. In 1701, it was chartered, and its classes recited at Killingworth 
until 1707, when it removed to Saybrook Point, and in 1717 a final remove (it is 
hoped) was made to New Haven. At an early date the college was named in 
honor of Elihu Yale (born at New Haven in 1648), Gov. of Madras, and afterwards 
Gov. of the East India Company, who gave £400 towards its support. The 
Presidents of Yale : Timothy Dwight, Ezra Stiles, Theodore D. Woolsey (1846 - 71), 
and others, will compare favorably with the corresponding officers of Harvard. 
After the secularization of Harvard University, the Orthodox churchmen rallied 
on Yale. This college has done a noble work of education, and especially in 
shaping and strengthening those minds of Conn, which have been so busy and 
honored throughout the Republic. 

Said De Tocqueville in a Fourth of July dinner at Paris : “Yon day I vas in the 
gallery of the House of Representatives. I held in my hand a map of the Con¬ 
federation. Dere vas one leetle yellow spot called Connect-de-coot. I found 
by de Constitution he was entitled to six of his boys to represent him on dat 
floor. But when I make the acquaintance personelle-witli the member, I And 
dat moi’e than tirty (30) of the Representative on dat floor was born in Connect- 
de-coot. And den ven I vas in de gallery of the House of the Senate, 1 find de 
Constitution permit dis State to send two of his boys to represent him in dat 
legislature. But once more, ven I make de acquaintance personelle of the 
Senator, I find nine of the Senator was born in Connect-de-Coot. 

“And now for my grand sentiment — Connect-de-Coot, the leetle yellow spot 
dat make de clock-pedler, the schoolmaster, and the Senator ; de first give you 
time, the second tell you what to do with him, and de third make your law and 
civilization.” 

The line of ancient buildings fronting on Temple St. comprises S.« 
College (built 1793), Athenaeum (built for a chapel, 1761), S. Middle 
College (1750), Lyceum and N. Middle College (1803), Chapel (1824), 
N. College (1822), and Division College (1835). These are used for 
dormitories and recitation-rooms, as is also Durfee Hall (1871,) and 
Farnum Hall (1872), two handsome new buildings on the N. end. Three 
fine buildings are aligned on High St., on the N. the Alumni Hall, a 
a neat red-sandstone building with a large hall in which are hung portraits 
of many distinguished graduates. In this Hall are conducted the ex¬ 
aminations of. new men, the Commencement exercises, and the meetings 
of the alumni. The Linonian Society and the Brothers in Unity have 
halls in this building. Next S. is the ornate turreted building of the 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 81 


College Library, with numerous ivy-vines (planted with great ceremony 
by each graduating class) climbing up its sandstone walls. The Library 
contains 90,000 volumnes. Next S. is the Old Commons’ Hall, now used 
for lecture-rooms, and for the display of the great geological cabinets, 
&c., prepared by Silliman, in which is the Gibbs collection of 25,000 
specimens, including several European collections. Next comes the costly 
modern building of the Art Gallery (see below). Among the smaller 
houses on the square are the old Trumbull Gallery, and the little labora¬ 
tory formerly used by the elder Silliman, and preserved as a relic of that 
eminent scientist. The Gymnasium (said to be the best in the U. S.) is 
on Library St., and the boat-house of the Yale Navy is near Tomlinson’s 
Bridge. Curious buildings near the square are occupied by the college 
societies : the Psi Upsilon, on High, near College St. ; the Delta Kappa 
Epsilon, on York, near Library St. ; the Scroll and Keys, corner Wall and 
College Sts., &c. Yale is properly a University, having, besides its large 
academic department, the Sheffield Scientific School, in a fine building on 
Grove St., with 140-150 students ; the Law School, on Church St., near 
the City Hall ; the Medical College, on York, near Chapel St. ; the School 
of the Fine Arts, and the Theological School in a large new building, 
corner of Elm and College Sts., with the neat Marquand Chapel attached. 
In 1871 there were 644 men in the academic department, with 68 instruc¬ 
tors ; and 215 in the professional schools, with 20- 25 instructors. The 
Annual Commencement (last Thursday in July) is a great day in New 
Haven, the exercises being conducted in the Centre Church and the 
Alumni Hall. 

A large reading-room is in S. Middle College. George Peabody left 
$ 150,000 to Yale, which is to be used in building a fine Museum on 
Chapel St., and a Memorial Chapel is also in projection. 

The lower part of the Art Building is occupied by studios, &c., and 
the second floor contains some valuable pictures. The works of art in the 
first room, to a large extent, belong to gentlemen of New Haven, and are 
often withdrawn and new ones are added. 

Among those on exhibition here in 1872, were Viaw in the Catskills, Gifford; 
Portrait of George Peabody, Huntington; * Interior of Westminster Abbey, and 

* Interior of St. Mark’s, Venice, David Neal; large copies of the Madonna di Foligno, 
the Transfiguration, and the Last Communion of St. Jerome ; * Autumnal Scene, 
Gifford; Ammonoosuc Valley, Weir; Taking the Veil, Weir; and a large number 
of portraits, sketches, &c. by Col. Trumbull. In the second room are many casts 
from antique sculptures ; 130, cast of Jupiter, after Phidias; 131, Ilioneus, after 
Praxiteles; 132, Ruth , Lombardi; 133, Jephthah, Augur ; 135, Edwin Booth ; 136, 
Col. Trumbull, Ball Hughes; 137-8, busts by Powers; 139, statuette of Apollo ; 
1, head of Apollo ; 2, JEsculapius ; 3, the River-God of the Cephissus ; 4, Theseus, 
after Phidias; 5, Victory, after Phidias; 6, Kanephora ; 7-28, Panatlienaic pro¬ 
cession, from the outer frieze of the cella of the Parthenon ; 29-33 Combat of the 
Greeks and Amazons, from the frieze of the Mausoleum at Caria. In the corridor 
are works of the same class : 1, cast from Eleusis ; 3, 4, 11, Metopes of the 
Tlieseum ; 12, 13, Combat with Centaurs. In the third room is the famous 

* Jarvis collection of early Italian pictures (fine catalogue and “ Manual of the 

4* F 


82 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Study of early Christian Art,” for sale by the janitor). The pictures from 1 to 10 
are Byzantine Italian, of the eleventh and twelfth centuries : 1, an altar-piece, the 
Crucifixion, Deposition, and Entombment; 2, the Nativity; 3, a triptych, Ma¬ 
donna and Child and Saints ; 4, 19 small pictures from the history of Christ, in a 
triptych ; 5, * a large altar-piece, Christ and the Madonna, with Angels ; 6, St. 
George killing the Dragon ; 7, an altar-piece in 5 sections, Christ in Hades, ,&c ; 
8, The Annunciation ; 9, Miraculous Appearance of SS. Mercurius and Catherine 
(13th century); 10, Madonna and Child ; 11, Crucifixion, Giunta da Pisa ; 12, altar- 
piece in 7 sections, Margaritone da Arezzo ; 13, Madonna and Child, Cimabue ; 
14, Crucifixion, and Madonna and Child, Duccio da Siena; 17, * Entombment, 
Giotto ; 18, Crucifixion, Giotto ; 19, Annunciation, Cavalini ; 20, Vision of S. Domi¬ 
nic, attributed to Taddeo Gaddi; 21, SS. James, Julian, and the Archangel 
Michael; 22, the Madonna and Child, &c. ; 23, SS. Augustine and Lucia, Orcagna ; 
24, SS. Dominic and Agnes, Orcagna; 25, S. John the Baptist, Orcagna; 26, *S. 
Peter, Orcagna; 27, The Trinity and Adoring Saints, Capana ; 2S, St. Francis 
receiving the Stigmata, Agnolo Gaddi ; 29, The Agony in the Garden ; 30, Legend 
of S. Giovanni Gualberto, Casentino ; 31, Madonna and Child, &c., Giottino ; 32, The 
Adoration of tlie Shepherds, Giottino; 33, Crucifixion, Aretino ; 34, Vision of 
Constantine, and Fall of Satan, Aretino ; 35, The Assumption of the Virgin ; 36, 
SS. Cosmo and Damian, Bicci ; 37, the Deposition from the Cross, Veneziano ; 38, 
The * Triumph of Love (on wood), Gentile da Fabriano ; 39, Madonna and Child, 
Gentile da Fabriano ; 40, SS. Zenobio, Francis of Assisi, Anthony of Padua, Fra 
Angelico da Fiesole ; 41, The Madonna adoring the Infant Saviour, Panicale; 42, 
Infancy of S. John the Baptist, Masaccio; 43, 44, Scenes from the TEneid, painted 
on wood, Uccelli ; 45, Tournament at Florence, Dello Delli ; 46, St. Martin and the 
Beggar, Dello Delli; 47, St. Jerome in Penance, Castagno ; 48, The Temptation of 
S. Anthony, Sassetta ; 49, Adoration of the Magi, and 50, Coronation of the Virgin, 
Sano di Pietro ; 51, S. Catherine of Siena pleading the Cause of the Florentines 
before Gregory VII., Giovanni di Paolo ; 52, Martyrdom of a Bishop; 53, St. 
Anthony tormented by Demons; 54, Hermits exorcising Demons ; 55, Nativity, 
Squarcione; 56, Crucifixion, Mantegna; 57, Madonna and Child, Matteo da Siena; 
60, Penitence of S. Jerome, Fra Filippo Lippi ; 61, Madonna, Diamante; 63, An¬ 
nunciation, Gozzoli; *67, Adoration of the Magi, Luca Signorelli; 68, The Princess 
Vitelli, Francia; 70, The Baptism of Christ, Perugino ; 73, Portrait of a Lady, 
Ghirlandajo ; 74, Madonna and Child, Botticelli ; 75, S. Peter, Giovanni Bellini ; 77, 
The Cireufhcision of Christ, and, 7S, Portraits of noble Venetians, Giorgione; 
80, St. Sebastian, and 81, The Dead Christ, Filippino Lippi ; 82, Diana and Action, 
and 83, the Three Archangels, Piero di Cosimo ; 84, Crucifixion, Lorenzo di Credi ; 
86, The Dead Christ held by the Virgin, Era Bartolomeo ; 89, The Madonna sup¬ 
porting the Dead Christ, Raphael (his earliest known work) ; 90, Madonna, Lo 
Spagno ; 92, Madonna and Child, Andrea del Sarto (badly injured); 94, Christ 
bearing the Cross, Sodoma; 95, Madonna and Saints, Sodoma; 97, Madonna and 
Saints, Ghirlandajo; 99, Martyrdom of the Theban Legion, and, 100, Portrait of 
Cosmo dei Medici, Pontormo; 104, Portrait of the Princess Vittoria Colonna, 
Sebastiano del Piombo ; 106, The Death of Lucretia, Vasari; 107, Portrait of 
Bianca Capello, Bordone ; 109, The Crucifixion, Paolo Veronese; 110, Christ in 
Glory, with SS. Peter and Paul, attributed to Veronese; 111, Venal Love, Agostino 
Caracci ;112, Joseph and the Infant Jesus, Guido Reni ; 113, Venus, Minerva, and 
Juno disarming Cupid, Guido Reni; 114, Artemisia, Queen of Caria, Domeni- 
chino; 115, * Madonna holding the Crown of Thorns, unknown; 116, Spanish 
Noble, Velasquez; 117, Head of the Dead Christ, Albert Diirer ; 118, Portrait of the 
Emperor Charles V., Holbein; 119, The Procession to Calvary, Breughel. 

Environs of New Haven. 

Besides the beaches at Branford and Guilford (before spoken of), there 
is a fine drive down the E. side of the harbor, by the old Forts, Hale and 
Wooster. The Grove (steamer from New Haven 4 times daily) and the 
Cove Houses are near the lighthouse, 5 M. from the city, the latter 
($10-$15.00 a week) being on along, smooth, curving beach of white 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 83 


sand. (The suburb of Fairhaven, on this side, is famous for its large and 
delicious oysters.) Fort Wooster, 1^ M. from the city, was built in 
1814, and is now in ruins ; a noble view is gained from the hill on which 
it stands. About 200 yards N. of this Fort was the cemetery of the 
Quinnipiac Indians. 1^-2 M. from this point is Fort Hale, which was 
greatly strengthened during the war of -1861 - 65, but is now dismantled. 

The East and West Rocks are bold and lofty masses of trap-rock, on 
the plain near the city, which geologists think were driven up through 
other strata by some great throe of the central forces. They form the 
southern limit of the great system of mountains which extends from 
Hereford, in Canada, forming the valley of the Connecticut River, which 
many believe once flowed between these cliffs to the Sound. East Rock 
(carriage-road to the top, horse-cars to the base from the Green) is 
1^-2 M. from the centre of the city, by way of State St. A small stone 
. hotel is on its summit. An extensive * view is afforded hence, embracing 
the broad valleys and bright waters of Mill and Quinnipiac Rivers, the rural 
districts of North Haven and Hamden, the high hills toward Mount Car¬ 
mel, the frowning cliffs of West Rock, the city of New Haven, its har¬ 
bor, and a long sweep of Long Island Sound. 

* West Rock (horse-cars from Chapel St.) is 2-2| M. N. W. of the 
Green, and rises sharply from the plain to an elevation of nearly 400 ft. 
The ascent (difficult for ladies) is over a rugged and rocky path beyond 
the quarries. The view from the summit is nearly the same as that from 
the East Rock, except that a great portion of the Quinnipiac valley is 
hidden, the northern mountains are differently grouped, and the western 
towns are unfolded to the view. A hard walk of 15 - 20 min. to the N. 
over the rugged plateau leads to the Judge's Cave, a small cleft in a 
group of boulders, where the regicides Goffe and Whalley were hidden 
for some time in 1661. A citizen who lived about 1 M. off brought them 
food, until one night a catamount looked in on them and “ blazed his eyes 
in such a frightful manner as greatly to terrify them.” Wintergreen 
Fall is near the upper base of the rock, and above it is a dam of rock 
and earth 3,500 ft. long, which forms a lake of 75 acres for the water sup¬ 
ply of the city. Near West Rock is Maltby Park, covering 800 acres, 
with 3 M. of driveways, and the city water-works. At the foot of the 
rock is Westville, near which is “Edgewood,” the rural home of Donald 
G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), the author of “ Dream Life,” “ Reveries of a 
Bachelor,” and other charming books. 

Savin Rock, 4 M. S. W. of New Haven (horse-cars from the Green 
half-hourly) is the favorite resort of the citizens. The road passes 
through West Haven, a quiet old village, with a tall church on an elm- 
shaded green. Savin Rock is a bluff promontory pushing a rocky front 
against the waves, and stands at the end of a long, sandy beach which has 


84 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


a very light surf. A pretty view of the Sound is gained from the top of 
the bluff, near which once stood a fine hotel, which was recently burned 
down. The Sea-View House can now accommodate 75-100 guests. 

Several busy manufacturing villages are in the vicinity of New Haven. 
Newhallville, where the Winchester rifles are made ; Centreville, the 
home of large car, carriage, and saw factories ; Whitneyville ; Westville, 
where 360,000 gross of match-splints and $50,000 worth of berry-baskets 
are made yearly, &c. 

On leaving the dark and crowded, but centrally located, station at New 
Haven, the Shore Line train passes on to the rails of the New York and 
New Haven R. R., on which the cars of the Springfield route run, and 
which will also be used by the Air Line route. The first station is West 
Haven, 1 M. from Savin Rock. Next comes Milford, (Milford Hotel, 
$ 2.00), a pretty village, with wide streets lined with arching elms, and 
with an enclosed green \ M. long. 

The aborigines of Wapowage having been crowded off, this district was settled 
and named, in 1639, by a company from Milford, in England. The occupation 
seems to have been in accordance with a series of resolutions at an early meeting 
of the Milford church. “Voted, That the earth is the Lord’s, and the fulness 
thereof. Voted, That the earth is given to the saints. Voted, That we are the 
saints.” The settlement being menaced in the Indo-Dutch War of 1643-6, it 
was surrounded by a wall and palisade 1 M. around ; and the dreaded Mohawks 
having been repulsed by Connecticut Indians near Milford, the saints possessed 
the earth in peace. On New Year’s Day, 1777, 200 American soldiers, captives 
from the prison-ships at New York, were cast ashore here from British cartel- 
ships, and despite the truly saintly ministrations of the Milfordites, 46 of them 
died in one month. They were buried in the old cemetery (near the station), and 
a monument 30 it. high raised over them, which states the facts, and the names 
of the victims, and asks, “Who shall say that Republics are ungrateful?” 

St. Peter’s (Episcopal) Cliurch is a venerable and ivy-clad stone edifice 
on the green and terraced banks of the tranquil Posquag. Two large 
white churches (of wood) stand on the hill beyond. A large amount of 
straw-goods is made in the village. Charles Island (small hotel) is iu 
the Sound near Milford, and is much visited in summer. 

Soon after leaving Milford, the line crosses the broad Housatonic River, 
and stops at Stratford , a quiet village with neither hotel nor factory, and 
rich in two or three elm-lined, tranquil streets, where one can stroll on 
dreamy autumn afternoons and feel as if in a second era of the Truce of 
God. Such streets are found only in these old towns on Long Island 
Sound. Stratford was settled by Massachusetts men, in 1639, and its 
pastor was Adam Blackman, whom Cotton Mather (who is fond of play¬ 
ing upon words) calls “ a Nazarite purer than snow, and whiter than 
milk.” The society which he organized now meets in a new Swiss Gothic 
church near the station. Dr. Samuel Johnson, first President of King’s 
(Columbia) College, and “ Father of Episcopalianism in Connecticut,” is 
buried near the venerable Christ Church (founded 1723). 

The next station is Bridgeport. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 85 


(*Sterling House. Main St. ; Atlantic House, opposite station, each $3.00 a 
day; City Hotel, &c.) Carriages, 50c. a course within the city for each person, 
or $1.00 for 3 persons. Post Office on State, near Main St. Opera House on State, 
near Main. Library, corner Main and Beaver, with 9,000 volumes; magazines 
and papers in the reading-room. 

This district was owned by the Paugusset Indians, and was occupied soon after 
Mason’s victory in 1637, when he pursued the Pequots in this direction. The in¬ 
nocent Paugussets (with their hundred wigwams) were soon crowded on to a res¬ 
ervation of 80 acres at Golden Hill (so named from its glittering mica), and the 
poor half-dozen who remained in 1765 sold out and left. From the contiguous 
towns of Stratford and Fairfield a new parish was formed, called Stratfield, and from 
this Bridgeport was afterwards organized. Charles Chauncey, the famous Puritan 
Father, was pastor here for 20 years, and while he looked after the adults the 
church “ Voted that Nathaniel Wackle should be the man to look after y® boyes a 
Sabbath dayes in time of exercise that they play not.” In 1715, Pastor Cooke of 
New Haven accepted a call here on a salary of “200?. a year, or provisions at the 
following rates, viz: Indian at 2s., ry at 2s. 8 d., wheat at 4s. per bush., porck at 
20 s. percwt., and firewood for the yous of the family.” People were seated in 
the church “by dignity, Adge, and a state.” In 1707, an Episcopalian mission¬ 
ary was sent here from England, who, by 1748, had organized a church (the pres¬ 
ent St. John’s Society). In 1771, during Sunday morning service at the Congre¬ 
gational Church, a storm arose, the darkness was broken by a broad sheet of 
lightning, accompanied by a terrific crash, and when it had passed the two chief 
men were found dead in their pews, and many in the congregation were stunned, 
bruised, and wounded. In 1836, Bridgeport was incorporated as a city, and since 
thfen has grown larger and richer yearly. 

The principal manufactories of the city are the great Sewing-Machine 
works of Wheeler and Wilson (employing 800 hands), and of Elias Howe, 
Jr. (the latter made 30,000 machines in 1869), the Pacific and the New 
Haven Arms Co., the Union Metallic Cartridge Co., the American and 
the Simpson Water-Proof Co., the Bridgeport Brass Co., &c., &c. 
Immense quantities of steel-pointed cannon-shot were made here in 
1861-5. 

Mountain Grove Cemetery is gained by Fairfield Ave. (horse-cars), 
and is in a picturesque situation. The Harral family has a fine Gothic 
monument on one of the hills. Iranistan, Barnum’s large mansion, stood 
on Fairfield Ave. St. Augustine's Church (Catholic) is a large granite 
edifice on Golden Hill, opposite which is the Cluny-like Wheeler mansion 
in its extensive grounds. Beyond this the aristocratic streets of Golden 
Hill extend. North Ave. was the centre of the ancient settlement, of 
which some gray houses remain. It was then called the King’s Highway. 
Broad St., parallel to Main, has a line of neat churches. Washington 
Park is a plain, grassy lawn in E. Bridgeport, on which is the pretty 
Church of St. Paul, and beyond it is Pembroke Lake. On the S. of the 
city (horse-cars on Main St.) is * Sea-Side Park, a fine resort looking out 
on the harbor and the Sound. The beach is backed by a long sea-wall, 
beyond which is a broad esplanade, with carriage-road and foot-path, in 
full view of the water, and of Long Island. Beyond the Park is Black 
Rock Village, where was bom Capt. Chauncey, of the U. S. Navy, a dis¬ 
tinguished officer of the War of 1812. During much of the Revolution¬ 
ary era, the 4th Comi. encamped at the Park. The stately mansion 


86 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


which overlooks the Park was built by P. T. Barnum, the great show- 
man. 

Bamum was born in Conn.. 1810, and began his great career as showman in 
1835 (with Joice Heth). In 1849, he paid Jenny Lind $150,000 for singing 150 
nights in America. In 1865, his great museum at New York was destroyed. 
Charles S. Stratton, or Gen. Tom Thumb, was born at Bridgeport in 1832. His 
size and growth were as usual until his seventh month, when he ceased to grow. 
In 1844 Barnum took him to Europe ; and since that time his travels have been 
incessant and his revenues large. In 1863 he married Miss Lavinia Warren, of 
Middleboro’, Mass., a young lady of about the same stature as himself, — to wit, 
28 inches 

Steamers leave Bridgeport for New York twice daily, also for Port Jefferson, 
L. I., twice daily (fare $1.00). Stages for Black Rock, Easton, &c. 

Kail roads." The Naugatuck R. R., from Bridgeport to Winsted (62 M.), runs 
N. in the valleys of the Housatonic and Naugatuck Rivers. (Route 16.) The Hous- 
atonic R. R. runs from Bridgeport to Pittsfield, Mass., 110 M. (Route 17.) 

The next station is Fairfield (Fairfield House, or Marine Pavilion, 
$10-$12.00 a week; open in summer only). Fairfield is an ancient 
village, with a beautiful street lined with villas and careful landscape 
gardening. On the Green are the Episcopal and Congregational Churches, 
and the Court House, “ Built A. D. 1720, destroyed by the British 
A. D. 1779, rebuilt A. D. 1794, remodelled 1870.” 

July 7, 1779, Tryon with his Hessian Yagers, returning from the pillage of New 
Haven, landed here, sacked the village, and burned 200 houses. The scene in¬ 
spired Col. Humphrey’s Elegy beginning, — 

“ Ye smoking ruins, marks of hostile ire, 

Ye ashes warm which drink the tears that flow, 

Ye desolated plains, my voice inspire, 

And give soft music to my song of woe. 

How pleasant, Fairfield, on th’ enraptured sight, 

Rose thy tall spires, and ope’d thy social halls.” 

Another poet of that day was more pointed in his remarks : — 

“ Trvon achieved the deeds malign, And smiled to see destruction spread ; 

Tryon, the name for every sin. While Satan, blushing deep, looked on. 

Hell’s blackest fiends the flame surveyed And Infamy disowned her son.” 

10 min. walk S. of the Green leads to the beach, the best on the Sound, 
protected by a bar from S. winds, with a gradually-sloping, sandy shore, 
and no surf. To the S. is the lighthouse on Penfield Reef, and Black 
Rock light is to the E., in which direction is a high, grassy bluff on which 
it is contemplated to build a mammoth hotel. 15 min. walk N. of the 
Green is Round Hill, commanding a wide view of Bridgeport and the 
Sound. Some miles N. are Samp Mortar Rock (a precipice 70 ft. high, 
on whose top is a deep hole where the Indians pounded corn), and Green¬ 
field Hill, where President Dwight was once settled, and where he wrote 
the poem (popular 70 years ago) of “ Greenfield Hill.” From this point 
a fine view is gained, embracing, according to the poet, 

“Norwalk’s white ascending spires, sky-encircled Easton's churches, 

Stratford's turrets, Fairfield giving lustre to the day. 

Prince of the waves, and ocean’s favorite child, 

There Longa’s Sound all gloriously expands.” 

Southport station and village is 2 M. from Fairfield. N. of the railroad 






BOSTON TO NEW YOKE. 


Route 8. 87 


and near the station is a cultivated field, which occupies the site of the 
Sasco Swamp, where, in 1637, the Unquowa (Fairfield) Indians anda strong 
hand of Pequots took refuge. Mason, with troops of Mass, and Conn, 
surrounded the swamp, and after a parley the Unquowas were allowed 
to come out (being blameless). The Pequots refused all terms, and, after 
an obstinate attack, 70 of them broke the English line and escaped. 180 
were made prisoners and sold to the West Indies as slaves. Soon after 
these “ fair fields ” were occupied by a company from Concord, Mass. 
The next station is Westport. The village is 1^-2 M. N. of the rail¬ 
road, on the widenings of the Saugatuck, and is a lively little place. 
The Memorial Church of the Holy Trinity is a fine Gothic edifice of 
sandstone, alongside of which, and in strong contrast, is a heavy Egyptian 
tomb. 

Station, S. Norwalk (Lucas Hotel, Allin House), near which is the 
village of Norwalk (horse-cars to station). The legend says that this 
land, in the purchase (1640) from the Indians, was to extend one day’s 
“north walk’’from the Sound. ^ In 1653, the town was incorporated, 
having then 20 families. July 11, 1779, Tryon’s Hessians plundered and 
burnt the village, meeting with such resistance from 50 Continental 
soldiers and the militia that they lost 148 men. S. Norwalk is now an 
incorporated city, and Norwalk (Conn. Hotel ) is a pretty village on the 
heights. Midway between them is the palace of Le Grand Lockwood 
(costing about $ 1,000,000). The fine picture-gallery was moved to New 
York soon after Mr. Lockwood’s death, in 1872. The Norwalk Lock Co. 
makes 900,000 locks yearly, in 300 forms; the Union Knob Works turn 
out 1,500,000 knobs (of New Jersey clay) yearly. Hats and shoes are 
largely manufactured here. The oyster business is extensively engaged 
in by Norwalk men. At the draw-bridge, near Norwalk (on the E.), a 
frightful accident once took place, when an express train 'dashed into the 
open draw and was precipitated into the channel. 

Stations, Darien (village ^ M. S. of. the station), Noroton. Noroton is 
1-1| M. from Darien, and is the seat of Fitch’s Home for Soldiers, a 
beneficent institution founded by Benjamin Fitch, Esq., a wealthy gentle¬ 
man of Darien. Many of the children of the fallen soldiers are educated 
and cared for here, and prepared for lives of industry and honor. 

A fine gallery of paintings (mostly modern French) is attached to the Home, 
and is open to visitors. 

1, Portrait of Benjamin Fitch; 2, The Wandering Jew, Della Monica; 3, The 
Charitable Priest, Murillo (?); 4, Arabs, Adolphe Aze; 5, Gaming, Cassana; 6, 
Young Christ; 10, Fruit, Matthieu; 11, * Greek Girls invoking Eros, Mansfeld- 
Beaumont; 12, The Old Lover, Zamacois; 13, Scene on the Campagna, Fay; 
20, The Coming Storm, Verheyden; 22, Europa and the Bull, Cortone; 23, Am¬ 
sterdam, Hofl.auer; 24, The Judgment of Solomon, Zurbaran; 25, Scene at a 
Mosque, Adolphe Aze ; 27, Holy Family, School of Murillo.; 28, Lamplight Study, 
Rosierze; 29, Arches near Marseilles, Loubon ; 32, Adoration of the Magi, Franclc; 
47, * Algerian Princess at the Bath, Adolphe Aze; 36, Marine, Hofbauer; 38, 
Landscape, Van Huy sum; 40, Genre, Van Ostade; 42, * Tambourine Girl, Ro~ 


88 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


driguez; 44, 46, Swiss Scenes, Hauzer; 48, Mother and Child, Coseman; 50, The 
Foot-Bridge, Billou; 52, The Madonna adoring the Infant Christ, Garofalo; 53, 
Assumption, Prudhon ; 54, The Marriage, Greuze ; 55, Roman Flower-Girl, Oudet; 
56, Portrait by Ribeira (?); 57, The Return of Columbus, Beveria; 58, Knife- 
Grinder, Teniers (?) ; 59, Holy Family, Rubens (very doubtful) : 60, Game-Piece, 
A. Aze; 61, Wounded on the Battle-Field, H. Vernet; 62, Jonah and the Whale, 
Eckhout; 65-9, Genre pictures, by Scliopin; 66, Aurora, after Guido; 67, Al¬ 
pine Landscape, Hofbauer; 71, Roman Girl, Riedel; 72, The Toilet, Belechavx; 
77, Lady pouring Tea, Senecourt; 78, Cavalier, Patrols ; 83, Last Supper, Tinto¬ 
retto (?); 84, Milking, Berghem; 86, Fruit-Girl, Tourny; 88, Alpine Landscape, 
Hofbauer; 89, Lady at Window, Costi; 91, Fruit, Be Heem; 93, 100, Dogs, 
Blanchard; 94, Sheep, Verboecklioven; 95, Alchemist, Pichot,; 97, Soldier, Cou¬ 
ture; 98, Female Head, Alta; 99, Farm-Yard Scene, A. Aze; 102, Dead Deer, 
Gerard; 105, Bashful Suitor, Tolmouclie ; 106, The First Snow; 109, Elijah fed 
by the Ravens, Boucher ; 111, Holy Family, with SS. John and Catharine; 112, 
Cattle, Hofmayer ; 113, Raphael and La Fornarina, Baron ; 115, Massacre of the 
Innocents, Guido Reni ; 116, Maiden reading, Grossot ; 117, The Throne of France 
in 1793, Gabe; 121, * Cincinnatus and the Roman Senators, Zink; 123, Sheep 
and Country Lane, Menard; 124, 128, Genre pieces, Bourgoin; 129, Musicians, 
Sevre; 132, Spanish Scene, Rodriguez; 133, * Sheep, Verboeckhoven (of wonderful 
finish) ; 135, Portrait, Parmegiano ; 136, * Attack on Castle (of Cologne?), Rolmer ; 
138, Blowing Soap-Bubbles, Chaplin; 139, Roman Girls, Roehm; 141, Head, IVa- 
grez; 161, Holy Family and Saints, Bonifacio; 144, Landscape, Poelemburg; 
154, Girl and Parrot; 155, Tourists in the Alps, Girardet; 158, Dog’s Head, 
Gerome; 153, Blind Man and his Dog, Maidignon; 151, * Eastern Princess, Le- 
comte; 149, * Female Head, Plot; 162, Fruit and Game ; 177, Battle Scene ; 174, 
The Dead Christ (Pieta), Titian (?) ; 175, Diana, Raphael Mengs; 171, Portrait of 
Raphael; 173, Lady’s Portrait, Tocque ; 169, Marine View, Waldorp; 167, Tame 
Bear and Villagers, Rochu ; 168, St. Mark’s and the Ducal Palace (Venice) ; 166 *, 
191, Soldiers, Wouvermans ; 188, Cattle, Brascassat; 189, 190, Scenes from Abra¬ 
ham’s Life ; 205, Martha Washington ; 184, Roman Girl, Nanteuil; 182, Re¬ 
ligious Scene, Bassano (?) ; 17, Samson and Delilah ; 183, Judith and Holofernes ; 
181, Naval Battle by Night, Fou-les; 180, Moses and the Hebrew Host at Sinai, 
Barbcirelli; 179, Diana after the Chase, Breughel. Lower Room. 198-9, Swiss 
Views ; 197, Rebecca and Eleazar, Cartagliano; 221, Bearing off the Wounded, 
Le Dieux ; 225, * Queen Elizabeth, Van Dyk ; 201, Achilles spinning, Diepenbeclc; 
203, Naples; 204, Peace and Plenty, Gardner; 209, Landscape, Allegrain; 210, 
Domestic Scene, Cano. The picture numbered 150 (in the upper hall) is by Bou- 
guereau, and was long known as “the gem of Paris.” Some call this the best 
picture in the gallery, while others prefer Verboeckhoven’s Sheep (133), a small 
work, yet of microscopic finish. The works of Adolphe Aze are said to be “ ex¬ 
empt from criticism,” as he has gamed every medal and honor where his paintings 
have appeared. In the lower room is a choice and well-used library, including 
800 volumes of Bohn’s works presented by English friends. This room also con¬ 
tains several large pictures. In the room on the r. is a fine piece of statuary 
emblematic of the purpose of the institution. The view from the observatory 
above the building is very pretty. 

3 M. beyond Noroton, the train stops at Stamford, ( Stamford 
House, Union House), which was founded in 1641, and thereafter 
sometimes harried by the Dutch from New York. In 1838 it was a dull 
hamlet of 700 inhabitants ; but soon after the Empire City looked with 
favor upon it, and during the last 25 years its hills have been occupied by 
the villas and parks of New York gentlemen. Hence fine churches have 
been built, broad avenues are laid out, and a cluster of admirable schools 
has arisen. St. Andrew’s (Epis.) Church is a little gem of Gothic archi¬ 
tecture, guarding a wide sweep of graves. The Univ. Church, near by, is 
a handsome stone building, while the Catholics are raising a large church, 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 89 


on the road from the station. A fine new Town Hall, of hrick and Ohio 
stone, 150 ft. front and with a tower 100 ft. high, rises in the centre of 
the village M. from the station). Near it is a small, triangular park 
with a fountain. A pleasant drive is that on the New Haven road, passing 
many fine villas, among which is Quintard’s stone chateau. 1000-1500 
New-Yorkers come here during the summer, many of whom stop at Ship- 
pan Point (1^- 2 M. from the station), where is the large Ocean House, 
from whose beach a pretty still-water view is afforded. Pound Rock is a 
ledge running into the Sound not far from the Point. 

Col. Abraham Davenport, “a man of stern integrity and generous benevo¬ 
lence,” was born at Stamford in 1715, and was for 25 years in the State legisla¬ 
ture. On the memorable Dark Day, May 19tli, 1780, great fear fell on the legisla¬ 
ture, then in session ; and in anticipation of the approach of the Day of universal 
Judgment, an adjournment was moved. The brave old man arose, and thus spoke, 
calming the fears of the legislators, and continuing the session: “lam against 
an adjournment. The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is not. If it 
is not, there is no cause for an adjournment. If it is, I choose to be found doing 
my duty. I wish, therefore, that candles may be brought.” This scene has been 
made the theme of a fine poem by Whittier. Col. Davenport’s sons, James and 
John, were officers in the Revolution, and afterwards members of Congress 
(1796-9 ; 1799-1817). 

Steamers leave Stamford for New York daily. A Railroad runs from this point 
to New Canaan, a quiet country town 8 M. to the N. 

Stations, Cos Cob (village 'N. of the railroad, on the Miantus River), 
and Greemvich (City Hotel, open in summer). Greenwich was settled in 
1640, and in 1650 was appointed by the Anglo-Duteh frontier commission 
in session at Hartford as the W. limit of Conn. Somewhere in this early 
age, a desperate battle lasting all day was fought on Strickland’s Plain, 
between the Dutch and Indians. The village stands on rolling hills, 
\ M. N. of the station. 15 min. walk to the E. is a stately Cong. 
Church, built of gray rubble, with deep transepts, a wide and picturesque¬ 
ly irregular front, a high pointed roof, and a fine stone spire in open¬ 
work. This fine edifice is on a high hill, and may be seen for leagues 
along the Sound, resembling some pilgrimage church on the Seine 
or Danube. Near this is the exquisite Christ Church (Epis.) in a shel¬ 
tered grove on the ridge, built of gray stone trimmed with Caen stone. 
It has a handsome stone spire, and its interior is said to be very ele¬ 
gant. 

A few rods beyond (to the E.), on the r. of the road, is an old cemetery, where 
stood the church in 1779, near which Gen. Putnam, with 60 militia-men, fought 
an advancing force of dragoons until the last moment possible. Then, since to 
go down by the curving road (the present road is modern and more direct) would 
expose him to a close fire from many of the enemy, he galloped his horse down 
the steps built in the steep hillside for the church-goers. The British cavalry 
sent a volley after him (one shot piercing his hat), but dared not follow, although 
two or three dragoons of Lafayette’s escort to the place (in 1824) performed the 
feat safely. Putnam lost 2 cannon here, but his men mostly escaped to the adja¬ 
cent swamps, and the next day Old Put attacked Tryon’s rear-guard with a force 
from Stamford, and captured 38 men. 

S. E. of the Greenwich station is Indian Harbor, on a point near which 




90 Route 9. 


BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. 


are the great buildings and parks prepared by the wealthy Americus Club, 
of New York. 

Soon after leaving Greenwich, the train crosses the Byram River, and 
leaves Yankee-land, which is said to stretch u from Quoddy Head” (in 
Maine) “ to Byram River.” Stations, Port Chester , in Westchester 
County, New York (De Soto House), a busy village with 5 churches. Rye 
(with a fine beach 2 M. S. E. of the station), MamaronecTc, “the place 
of rolling stones,” where Smallwood’s Maryland battalion defeated 
Rogers’s Tory Rangers in 1776, and New Rochelle. This village was set¬ 
tled by Huguenot refugees in 1691, after the fall of La Rochelle, and the 
French language was long used here. The State of New York granted a 
tract of land here to Thomas Paine. 

Thomas Paine, was born in England, 1737, and came to America in 1774. Early in 
1776 he published a tract, “Common-Sense,” advocating republican indepen¬ 
dence, and in Dec. “ The Crisis ” was published, beginning with the words, “ These 
are the times that try men’s souls.” This was read at the head of every Conti¬ 
nental regiment, and aroused the drooping spirits of the army and people. Af¬ 
ter filling several offices in the U. S., he went to France in 1791, and was elected 
to the National Convention. After a stormy life in Europe, during which he 
attacked Burke in the “Rights of Man,” and advocated atheism in the “Age of 
Reason” (1795), he came to New Rochelle in 1S02, and settled on an estate given 
him by New York, where he died in 1809. In 1819 Wm. Cobbett removed his re¬ 
mains to England, and in 1839 the State erected a monument to Paine on his old 
farm. 

After New Rochelle , the train passes Pelhamville, and at Mount Ver¬ 
non turns to the S. W., and runs on the rails of the Harlem R. R., 
through several suburban villages without stopping, then crosses the 
Harlem River, and stops at the station, 42d Street, corner of 4th 
Avenue. 

New York, see Route 51. 


9. Boston to Kew Bedford. 

Via Boston and Providence R. R., &c., in 2 hours. 

Boston to Mansfield, see Route 8. Stations, Norton (Mansion House), 
Crane’s, Attleborough Junction (where a branch line diverges to Attle¬ 
borough), Whittenton, Taunton (see Route 3.) At Weir Junction , the 
line connects with the Old Colony R. R. (western division), at Middle- 
boro' Junction with the Middleboro’ and Taunton R. R., and at Myrick's 
with the Old Colony R. R. (eastern division). The track now crosses the 
towns of Freetown and New Bedford, and stops at the latter city. 

New Bedford (Parker House, Mansion House), the Acushnet of the 
Indians, was settled in 1764, by Quakers, on lands owned by one Russell.. 
This being the family name of the Dukes of Bedford, the settlement was 
named in compliment to them. In the Revolution the place became a 
perfect nest of privateers, until a British force under Earl Grey attacked 
it (in the autumn of 1778), and destroyed its shipping, wharves, and 



BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. 


Route 9. 91 


stores. About the time of the settlement (1764), a few vessels were sent 
out in the pursuit of whales ; and this business soon became so great as to 
give New Bedford the name of the Whaling City. The Revolutionary 
War briefly interrupted this career of prosperity, but between 1790 and 
1850 the whalers from this port penetrated every sea. The business 
began to decline after the Californian gold-fever; scores of the old ships 
were filled with stone, carried to the South, and sunk in the channels be¬ 
fore the rebellious cities on the coast; and in the last hours of the Secession 
j War the Confederate cruiser “ Shenandoah ” destroyed a large part of 
1 the Pacific whaling fleet. Although this business has greatly waned, the 
attention of the people has so been turned to manufacturing industry that 
the city still maintains its prosperity. The Wamsutta Mills have four 
large buildings of stone, containing 90,000 spindles, operated by 1,600 
workmen, and consuming 10,000 bales of cotton yearly. 300 men are 
engaged in carriage manufactories ; 200 in glass-works ; 100 in the Gosnold 
Iron Works. $ 2,500,000 worth of oil a year is turned out by large oil- 
works ; 2,000,000 lbs. of copper sheathing are made yearly ; and other 
industries are in full tide of progress. The city has lately laid out 
$ 700,000 for an extensive system of water-works. The population in 
I 1870 was 21,375. 

New Bedford fronts on the widenings of the Acushnet River, near its 
mouth, and is built on the side of a ridge sloping to the water’s edge. It 
“ has a cosmopolitan air always blowing over its strata,” from the number 
of foreign mariners who are found here, and one of its quarters is called 
Fayal, from the large population of Portuguese there residing. The upper 
I part of the city is pleasant, and County St. is lined with stately old 
residences of the marine aristocracy, whence Lady Emma Stuart Wortley 
called this “ a city of palaces.” These “ palaces ” are all on the model of 
the “ architectural boulders ” so common in the decadent fishing-ports 
along the coast. The City Hall is a fine granite building, and the 
! Custom House is built of the same material. Several of the churches are 
notable for their neatness and grace, especially the spacious Unitarian 
Church. The City Library is a large and rapidly increasing collection of 
\ books, kept in finely arranged rooms, and free to the public. The wealthy 
old families of the aristocracy of New Bedford are famous for their hospi¬ 
tality and culture, and but few of the citizens go abroad to seek summer 
recreation. The favorite drive is around Clark’s Point, which extends into 
I Buzzard’s Bay, and is bordered by a broad, smooth road, constructed at 
great expense by the city to give its people the benefits of the sea-breezes 
I in summer. This avenue (5 M. around) affords a brilliant scene in sultry 
summer afternoons. 

Opposite the city, and joined to it by a bridge and steam-ferry, is Fairhaven (so 
named from its pretty location), a village formerly devoted to the whale trade. 
In 1778, while New Bedford was burning, a large British force crossed to Fair- 







92 Route 9. 


BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. 


haven, intent on its destruction. But Major Fearing of the militia, fearing not, 
attacked and repulsed them and saved the village. 

W. of New Bedford are the large hut thinly settled towns of Dartmouth and 
Westport, on long inlets from the sea, and remote from railroads. These towns 
(the Aponiganset and Acoakset of the Indians) are nurseries of sailors, and have 
hut an inferior soil, which produces fair crops when manured hy menhaden fish. 
In one year (1843) six seines off Dartmouth shore and helow Padan-Aram, caught 
18,100 barrels of these fish, which sold for 30c. a barrel. 

Railroad from Fairhaven to Tremont, on the Cape Cod R. R., see Route 6. 

Steamers leave daily during the summer, for Martha’s Vineyard. Upon leaving 
the wharf, a fine view is obtained of Fairhaven on the E., and of the long wharves 
and populous slopes of New Bedford on the W. Palmer’s Island with its light¬ 
house and Fort Phoenix, is soon passed, and then the long, projecting Clark’s 
Point, with a strong fortress now in process of construction. The steamer 
now passes straight to the S. E. across Buzzards Bay, a noble estuary 30 M. long 
by 10 M. wide, "with thinly populated shores. The Norsemen (11th century) 
called this Bay, Straum Fiord ; the origin of its present name is not apparent. 
Far to the S. are seen the Round Hills, on the Dartmouth coast, and Cuttyhunk, 
the outermost of the Elizabeth Islands. Cuttyhunk was colonized by Capt. 
Gosnold, in May, 1602, with a company sent out by the Earl of Southampton. 
He named the Island “ Elizabeth,” in honor, probably, of the maiden Queen. The 
island is M. long, and at that time abounded in game. Gosnold and his 
people erected a fort and cabins on an islet in a pond near the centre of Cutty¬ 
hunk, and here inaugurated the first settlement of NeAV England. But the 
Indians were hostile and numerous, and the colonists’ supplies soon gave out; so 
within a few weeks the plan was abandoned, and the people returned to England. 
The island is now occupied by a merry club of New-Yorkers, who spend their 
summers in boating and fishing. On Penequeese Island (covering about 100 acres) 
is the villa long occupied by John Anderson, of New York, who (in April, 1873} 
gave the island and $ 50,000 in cash to Prof. Agassiz for the location of a summer 
school of zoology and science connected with Harvard University. Nasliawena 
(3 M. long) is E. of Cuttyhunk, and beyond that is Pasque Island. This is owned 
by a New York club, who have built a club-house, farms, and stables, and prepared 
fruit and flower gardens, and preserves of small fish for bait. The surrounding 
waters abound in bass, blue-fish, squeteague, sword-fish, &c. Next to Pasque is 
Naushon, 8 M. long, which was for many years the favorite residence of James 
Bowdoin, an early American diplomatist, whose mansion was adorned by a large 
library, philosophical apparatus, and a fine picture-gallery, which he had collected 
in Europe. At his death he left all these things, together with the reversion of 
Naushon, to Bowdoin College. Lady Wortley, who visited the island early in 
this century, says, “Naushon is a little pocket America, a Lilliputian Western 
world, a compressed Columbia.” 

Naushon was long inhabited by a Boston gentleman, and is said to be “ stocked 
with all the varieties of English and Scotch game-birds, and most of their game 
animals, including also several hundred American deer, prairie fowl,” &c. Kettle 
and Tarpaulin Coves are well-known harbors, respectively on the N. and S. shores 
of Naushon. Near the N. E. end of the island are the islets of Wepecket, Onka- 
tomka, Nannamesset, and the Ram Islands. Between Naushon and the Falmouth 
shore is the strait called Wood’s Hole, a difficult and intricate passage between 
Buzzard’s Bay and the Vineyard Sound. The steamer stops at the village of 
Wood’s Hole, where there are several summer boarding-houses. (See Route 7.) 
After leaving this point, and passing Nobsque Light on the 1., the steamer crosses 
Vineyard Sound, and stops at the wharf at Martha’s Vineyard (Route 7). Says 
an English tourist: “What scenes can be more refreshing and exalting than an 
expansive view of the mighty waves, dotted here and there with such beautiful 
islands as those in the Vineyard Sound ? While aquatic birds skim the waves, 
and the gulls are screaming, dipping, and darting over a shoal of blue-fish, or 
menhaden, vessels outward and homeward bound are always passing, for it in¬ 
cludes in its range of view the packets and sailing-craft between New York and 
Boston. We have here the foreground and perspective worthy of the pencil 
of Claude Lorraine, while the background is formed of the granite shores of 
Massachusetts.” 



PROVIDENCE TO WORCESTER. Route 10. 93 


10. Providence to Worcester. 


Via Prov. and Worcester R. R., 43 M., Fare $1.40. 

* The railroad follows the line of the Boston and Providence R. R. as far 
as Pawtucket, and then turns up the valley of the Blackstone River. Sta¬ 
tions, Pawtucket, Valley Falls, and Lonsdale. At the latter place the track 
passes through a deep cut in Study Hill, to which William Blackstone, 
the first settler of Boston, retired after the Puritan immigration. He 
lived here in the wilderness from 1634 until his death, in 1675, surrounded 
by his books, and deeply respected by the Indians. The busy little river 
which flows by the hill was namjfed in his honor. After passing the 
stations of Ashton, Albion, Manville, and Hamlet, the train stops at 
Woonsocket ( Central House, Woonsocket Hotel), a thriving manufactur¬ 
ing town. Within a radius of 3 M. from the centre of the town are 
25,000 inhabitants. In the town itself, 4,200 persons are engaged in 
cotton-factories 2,400 in woollen-fac ories, and 700 in other manufactories. 
In 1869, the production of these busy hands was reported as 43,000,000 
yards of cotton cloth, 3,300,000 yards of woollens and cassimeres, 100,000 
grain-bags, 30 tons cotton-warp, 1,000 tons of soap. The celebrated 
Harris cloths are made here. The Social Mills have 43,000 spindles and 
500 hands. The town has erected a neat monument “ in memory of her 
brave sons who, during the great Rebellion, gave their lives that the 
Republic might live.” The Harris Institute is a popular institution given 
by Mr. Harris to the people, containing a large hall, and a library of 
6,000 volumes. Woonsocket Hill, the highest land in the State, com¬ 
mands a fine view of the populous and busy valley. 


Railroads. — A branch road runs from Woonsocket to Milford, Mass. The 
Woonsocket Division of the New York and New England R. R. terminates here, 
while the main line of that road crosses the Worcester route at Waterford, or 
Mill River Junction. 

After passing Woonsocket, the train enters the State of Massachusetts. 
Stations, Waterford, and Blackstone {Lincoln House), a busy manufac¬ 
turing village of about 5,000 inhabitants. Millville is in the town of 
Blackstone. Station, Uxbridge ( Wacantuck House), near which Major 
Talcott, with his famous flying army, attacked the Queen of Narragansett, 
who had made a stand here in a fortified position. After a battle of three 
hours, the Queen and 34 of her warriors were killed, and 90 warriors 
surrendered, only to be butchered in cold blood. Considerable manufac¬ 
turing is done in the valley of the Blackstone, but the hills are occupied 
by a population of wealthy farmers. Stations, Whitins, Northbridge, 
Farnum’s, Saundersville, Sutton (with several ponds), and Millbury 
(Millbury Hotel), a prosperous manufacturing town. A branch road from 
this point runs N. to the Boston and Albany R. R. Shortly after leaving 







94 Route 11. PROVIDENCE TO HARTFORD 


Millbury, the train passes, by the Grand Junction, into the station at 
Worcester (see Route 21). 

11. Providence to Hartford and Waterbury. 

Via Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. R. To Hartford, 90 M., fare $ 3.30. 
To Waterbury, 122£ M., fare, $ 4.15. 

After leaving Providence the train passes the stations, Cranston, Oak 
Lawn, Natick, Riverpoint, Quidnick, Anthony, Washington, Nipmuck, 
Summit, and Greene. These are mostly manufacturing villages in the 
extensive town of Greene, and several of them are occupied by the large 
factories of A. & W. Sprague. Shortly after leaving Greene the train 
enters the State of Connecticut, and passes the stations, Oneco, Sterling, 
Moosup, and Plainfield. The latter station is in the Indian district of 
Quinnibaug, which was bought by Gov. Winthrop in 1659, and settled 
by Massachusetts people. From the great quantities of com which it 
produced, it was called in the colonial era the “ Egypt of E. Connecticut.” 
At Plainfield the Norwich and Worcester R. R. crosses the line. After 
passing the stations, Canterbury, Jewett City, Lovetts, Baltic, Waldo’s, 
and S. Windham, the line crosses the New London Northern Division of 
the Vermont Central R. R. at Willimantic (Brainerd’s Hotel). This is 
a large manufacturing village, on the river of the same name, which falls 
100 ft. in 1 M. Extensive thread, silk, and cotton mills are located on 
the water-power thus afforded, occupying large factories built of stone 
found in this vicinity. The Air Line R. R. between Boston and New 
York passes through Willimantic, which is becoming a great railroad 
centre. The only legend connected with Windham (in which town Wil¬ 
limantic is situated) is of a long battle between two hordes of immigrat¬ 
ing frogs, in which several hundred of the combatants were killed. This 
event has been duly attested and described by a local poet in a Batrachy- 
omachian epic of 30 stanzas. The train now passes Andover, Bolton (near 
which is Bolton Notch, a romantic pass into the valley of the Connecti¬ 
cut), and Vernon. At Vernon a branch track (5 M.) runs to Rockville, a 
prosperous manufacturing village on the water-power afforded by the 
Hockannon River. Beyond Vernon is Manchester, which makes yearly 
2,000,000 yards of gingham, 90,000 pairs of socks, 450 tons of book-paper, 
besides government and bank-note paper for several nations. From 
thence a branch railroad (2| M.) runs to S. Manchester, the seat of the 
silk-works of the Cheney Brothers. After Manchester comes Burnside, 
where paper-making was a brisk business in 1776, and where there are 
now 3 paper-mills, whose yearly production is 300 tons of writing- 
paper, 400 tons of manilla paper, and 500 tons of book-paper. The 
next station is E. Hartford, with a wide, level street lined with elms, 
2 M. long. This district was the home of the Podunk Indians, whose 





AND WATERBURY. 


Route 11. 95 


chief, Totanimo, could bring 200 bowmen into the field. The train now 
crosses the broad Connecticut River and enters the city of Hartford (see 
Route 21). Connections are made here with the New Haven, Hartford, 
and Springfield R. R. (Route 21, for New York or Boston); also with the 
Conn. Western (Route 20) and the Conn. Valley (Route 14) Railroads, 
j From Hartford the line runs by Newington to New Britain (Strickland 
j House , Humphrey House), a wealthy and working town. The water-supply 
is from a large reservoir some 200 ft. above the village. In the centre of 
the town is a spacious square, adorned with trees and fountains, and near 
its end is the elegant and imposing S. Cong. Church. In the same vicinity 
|; is the State Normal School. The products of the industry of New 
: Britain are varied and extensive. The Russel and Erwin Co. employs 500 
men in 5 acres of works, and sends out millions of dollars’ worth of locks, 
which are used in all parts of the world. Hardware, lace, hose, merino 
goods, gold jewelry, and knives are made here in large quantities. 

Elihu Burritt, the “learned blacksmith,” was born at New Britain in 1811. At 
the age of 16, he was apprenticed to a blacksmith, and followed that trade for 
many years. Desiring to read the Bible in its original languages, he mastered the 
Greek and Hebrew by evening studies, and acquired such a philological taste, 
that he afterwards became familiar with all the principal ancient and modern 
languages. He became an earnest advocate of universal peace, temperance, and 
the abolition of slavery, and published a paper and several books in defence of 
these movements. After making several visits to Europe, he became U. S. Con- 
I sul at Birmingham, where he has since remained. 

At Plainville, the next station, the New Haven and Northampton R. R. 
(Route 15) crosses this route. Many carriages are made in this village. 
At Forestville, Bristol, and Terryville stations are many large clock-fac- 
tories, where every variety of clocks are made. After passing several 
flag stations, the train stops at Waterbury (Adams House, ScovilVs). 

: This is a small city (of 10,826 inhabitants), on a narrow plateau at 
the junction of the Mad and Naugatuck Rivers. The principal streets 
i diverge from Centre Square, a small but well-kept Green, on which front 
■ two Cong, churches, the new and elegant building of the City Hall, and 
j St. John’s Episcopal Church. The latter is called the finest church in 
the State, and is built of granite and Ohio stone in the pointed Gothic 
style. The sharply pointed ceiling is highly ornamented, and the spire 
(200 ft. high) uplifts a massive stone cross. The Silas Bronson Library, 
the gift of a New York gentlemen, contains 13,000 volumes and is free to 
j the citizens. On the hill near the Square is a large boarding-school for 
I young ladies. 

The manufacturing interests of the city employ a, capital of nearly 

I I $ 8,000,000. $ 2,000,000 are invested in the brass-works, besides which 

j there are 5 button-factories, 2 clock-factories, and works which turn out 
great quantities of wire, steel traps, hooks and eyes, hoop-skirts, and 
kerosene fixtures. The American Pin Co., the American Suspender Co., 






DG Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 


and the American Flask and Cap Co., have their works here. Silver- 
plated ware is made in large quantities, also the best quality of steel 
rolls. 

There is a pleasant drive, much of the way on the quiet and embowered river- 
road, to the Riverside Cemetery (1| M.), a small but picturesque rural ground 
among the forest-covered hills S. of the Naugatuck River. 

At Waterbury the Naugatuck R. R. connects with the Hartford, Providence, 
and Fislikill line. The latter road finds its terminus here, but work is progress¬ 
ing on sections passing through Hawleyville, Danbury, and Brewster (N. Y.), to 
Fislikill, on the Hudson River. The river will probably be bridged, and a con¬ 
nection made with the Erie Railroad, thus opening a new route between Boston 
and the West. 

12. Mew London to Vermont. 

Via the New London Northern Division of the Vermont Central Railroad, New 
London to Brattleboro’, 120 M. 

The train leaves the Shore Line Station at New London. Beautiful 
views of the broad and'expansive Thames on the E., so a seat should be 
secured on the r. side of the car. Near Mohegan is the old Mohegan 
reservation, where 824 Indians of that tribe were numbered in 1774. 
After passing Waterford, Montville, Massapeag, Mohegan, and Thames- 
ville, the train crosses the Yantic River, and enters Norwich (* Wauregan 
House, $ 2.50 - $ 3.00, corner Main and Union Sts.; TJncas Hotel, small, 
near station; American House). Norwich is a city of 16,653 inhab. 
with its streets terraced on a steep acclivity facing to the S. over the 
lake-like Thames, of which a local writer claims that “ not Richmond 
Hill itself, or Greenwich observatory, looks on a Thames more fair.” 
The situation of the city is indeed beautiful, being on high ground be¬ 
tween the Yantic and Shetucket Rivers, which here unite to form the 
Thames. The business part of Norwich is in a semicircle of which Main 
St., from Franklin Square to Central Wharf Bridge, is the chord, and 
beyond this the residence-streets rise in terraced lines. The banks, stores, 
and hotels are mostly in the district between Main St. and the rivers. 
The city and county buildings are neat and substantial, and there are 
two or three fine churches. 

Washington St. and Broadway are noble avenues lined with large 
and secluded old mansions. The former street runs near the Yantic, 
passing the ivy-clad Christ Church (Epis.), and ends at Williams Park, or 
the Parade, near which is the mansion of the Revolutionary General Wil¬ 
liams, and the imposing building of the Free Academy. The latter is a 
mixed school, of high grade and of a wide reputation. Turning to the 1. 
from the Parade, Sachem St. (opposite the Academy) leads to a pretty 
rural cemetery on the hills over the river. In this vicinity were the 
Yantic Falls, whose praises have been sounded by Mrs. Sigourney and 
others, both in prose and verse. A deep cutting in the hard rock, and 
curiously piled and water-worn boulders, are all that remain of “the 



NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 97 


beetling cliffs, tlie compressed channel, the confused mass of granite, and 
the roaring, foaming river,” by which a former generation’s u lone enthu¬ 
siasts wandered and dreamed.” The river has been dammed and diverted 
into an artificial channel, through which it affords a heavy Avater-power 
to a large cluster of factories below. Fine wood-carving machinery, rub¬ 
ber goods, corks, iron pipes, files, blankets and carpets, flax and twine, 
paper, envelopes, and cotton goods are manufactured in Norwich and its 
tributary villages. On Sachem St., near the site of the Falls, is a little 
cemetery in a cluster of pine-trees. This spot was chosen centuries ago 
as a sepulchral ground for the “ blood royal of Moliegan,” and has been 
carefully reserved by the tribe ever since. Many of the Grand Sachems 
are buried here, from those earlier chiefs of Avhom earthly history has no 
record down to Mazeen, the last of the line, who was buried in 1826 in 
the presence of 25-30 of the feeble remnant of the tribe. In the centre 
of the ancient monuments stands a massive obelisk erected to the memory 
of Uncas. (Its foundation-stone was laid by President Jackson.) 

Uncas Avas a chief of the Pequot tribe, Avho revolted in 1634 against the Sachem 
Sassacns, and joined the Mohegans. He was chosen Sachem of the latter tribe, 
and by sagacious alliances with the English colonists, he steadily increased the 
power of his people, Avho had previously held a subordinate position among the 
aboriginal clans. He led his warriors by the side of the colonial train-bands in 
the campaign of 1637, which annihilated his most dreaded foe, the Pequot tribe ; 
and in 1643, he fought the powerful Narragansetts until the Anglo-Moliegan 
forces, under his direction, had defeated and humbled that tribe. He repelled an 
invasion of the Western Indians, aided by a strong Mohawk contingent, in 1648, 
and kept up an incessant Avar upon his Indian neighbors until he became “the 
most powerful and prosperous prince in New England.” In 1640 he ceded to the 
colony of Conn, all his land except a tract on the W. shore of the Thames em¬ 
bracing three or four townships, and sold (for £70) the present site of Norwich, 
Avliich was occupied in 1660 by a nomadic church from Saybrook. He frequently 
visited the colonial capitals, Boston and Hartford, and ever remained friendly to 
the settlers, holding his people to peaceful ways while every other tribe of New 
England (except the Christian Indians) joined King Philip’s league against the 
colonies. After reigning as Sachem of the Mohegans for nearly 50 years, he died 
in 1683, a consistent Pagan to the last. He was crafty, cruel, and rapacious in 
his policy ; but as the head of a savage people, he was sagacious and far-sighted, 
and as a military leader he Avas skilful and fearless. It is difficult to tell what 
would have been the course of New England history, or what final and over¬ 
whelming disasters might have blotted out those feeble colonies along the coast, 
had not the two great southern tribes been ruined by the attacks (sometimes 
aided by a few dozen English musketeers) of the Mohegans under their Sachem, 
Uncas. Beyond the village of Greenville is Sachem’s Plain (fi-2M. from 
Norwich. Horse-cars most of the way). Here was fought a battle between Mi- 
antonomoh and 900 Narragansetts, and Uncas with 500 Mohegans. 

Miantonomoh was the nephew of Canonicus, and in 1636 succeeded to the gov¬ 
ernment of the Narragansetts. He was ever a firm friend to the colonists, grant¬ 
ing them a large portion of the present State of Rhode Island, and leaving his 
quarrels with Uncas to their arbitration. In 1642 he went to Boston to meet 
certain men who had accused him of planning hostilities against the colonies. 
He awaited his accusers in the presence of the Governor and council of Massa¬ 
chusetts, but no charges Avere preferred against him, and he left Boston after re¬ 
ceiving high honors from Gov. Winthrop, who admired his character. In the 
following year, stung to madness by insults offered by Uncas, he led 900 Narra- 
gansett warriors in an attack on Mohegan. Uncas and 500 men met him on 
Saeliem’s Plain, and in accordance Avith a plan preconcerted by the Mohegan 

5 G 


98 Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 


chiefs, invited him to a parley. While this parley was going on, and the Narra- 
gansetts were off their guard, the Mohegans made a fierce and sudden attack and 
scattered them in all directions. The pursuit was continued for many miles, and 
hundreds of the invaders fell, hut Miantonomoh was captured and led prisoner to 
Hartford. After remaining here in close confinement, he was surrendered to Un- 
cas, by whom, “by the advice and consent of the English magistrates and elders, 
he was executed. The royal Narragansett was carried by Uncas and his warriors 
from Hartford to Norwich, and was put to death on the battle-field of Sachem s 
Plain, at a place now marked by a stone monument inscribed “ Miantonomoh, 
1643.” He was a brave, magnanimous, and humane Sachem, incapable of dissim¬ 
ulation or treachery, and therefore he became their victim. 

For many years his people came hither in the season of flowers and adorned his 
grave, each of them leaving a stone upon it. The lofty cairn thus formed re¬ 
mained till a farmer (of the English “Hodge’’type) carried away the stones to 
make a foundation for a new barn. In 1841, the present granite monument was 
erected 

Nanunteno, the son of Miantonomoh, and his successor in the government, 
ever cherished a just hatred of the colonists, and joined King Philip’s league with 
enthusiasm. Having been made prisoner, in 1676, he was offered pardon in case 
he would treat with the English. On declining to make terms, he was threatened 
with instant death, whereupon he answered, “ I like it well; I shall die before my 
heart is soft, or I have spoken anything unworthy of myself” ; “acting herein,” 
says Cotton Mather, “as if, by a Pythagorean metempsychosis, some old Roman 
ghost had possessed the body of this Western Pagan, like Attilius Regulus.” He 
was instantly shot. 

About 5 M. S. of Norwich is the old fortress of Uncas, on the highest hill in 
Mohegan, and in the vicinity live the few half-breeds who are all that remain of 
the tribe of Uncas. President Dwight’s remark about the Pequots at Grotou will 
apply equally well to the Mohegans or to the Narragansetts in Charlestown, R. I., 

‘ ‘ the former proud, heroic spirit of the Pequot is shrunk into the tameness and 
torpor of reasoning brutism.” 

Steamers leave Norwich every morning, in summer,for New London and Watch 
Hill. The Norwich and Worcester R. R. diverges to the N. E., above the city. 

After leaving Norwich the line passes the stations Norwich Town, Yan- 
tic, Franklin, and Lebanon. The village of Lebanon, situated in a rich 
farming district, was very lively during the War for Independence. Jon¬ 
athan Trumbull, Governor of Conn. 1769-83, resided here, and here was 
the War Office of the State, which furnished more men and money in the 
Revolutionary War than any other State save Massachusetts. Gov. 
Trumbull was Washington’s right-hand man during the northern cam¬ 
paigns, and when any perplexing question or pressing demand arose, the 
noble Virginian would often say, “Let us see what Brother Jonathan 
says.” The name “Brother Jonathan” has passed into universal use as 
a humorous designation of the U. S., corresponding to the “John Bull ” 
which is applied to England. At the gubernatorial mansion in Lebanon, 
Trumbull received Washington, Lafayette, Rochambeau, Jefferson, 
Franklin, and other distinguished men. Five French regiments were can¬ 
toned in the town and reviewed by the commander-in-chief, while De 
Lauzion’s Legion (500 horsemen) wintered here. The Trumbull mansion 
and War Office are still standing, and in the little cemetery E. of the vil¬ 
lage is the family vault. 

The most prominent of the Trumbulls are Jonathan, Gov. of Conn. 1769-83 ; 
Jonathan, his son, M, C. in 1789-95, U. S. Senator in 1795-6, and Governor in 
1798-1809; Joseph, another son, commissary-general of the Continental Army; 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 99 


Joseph, grandson of “ Brother Jonathan,” 5 years M. C., and 2 years Gov. of Conn.; 
Lyman Trumbull (born near Lebanon in 1813), the eminent jurist and U. S. Sena¬ 
tor from Illinois, 1855-72 ; and Col. John Trumbull (some time of the 1st Conn., 
and afterwards aide to Washington), who studied painting under West, in Lon¬ 
don, and executed many large historical pictures, depicting scenes of the Revolu¬ 
tionary era. Four of his works are in the rotunda of the National Capitol, and a 
good collection of his paintings is in the Athenseum at Hartford. The Art Gal¬ 
lery of Yale College has a large number of his minor works, 57 in all. 

The line now leaves the Yantic Valley, runs along the border of the 
Shetucket, and, passing S. Windham, stops at Willimantic (see Route 11). 
At this point the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill, and the New York 
and New England tracks cross the New London Northern Railroad. 

Running N. from Willimantic, the line follows the Willimantic River, 
through the county of Tolland. Stations, S. Coventry, Eagleville (with 
large sheeting manufactories), and Mansfield, with four companies engaged 
in making sewing-silk, a profitable industry which was inaugurated here 
in the last century. Stations, Merrow, S. Willington, and Tolland, about 
4 M. W. of which is a sequestered village containing the modest county 
buildings. Stafford is celebrated for its mineral springs, the principal 
one being among the best of chalybeate springs. It contains considerable 
iron in solution, with carbonic acid and natron, and is a pleasant water to 
the taste. It is held to be very efficacious in all cutaneous affections. 
The other spring, which is charged with hydrogen gas and sulphur, has 
become choked up, and has long been disused. The Indians were in the 
habit of using these waters with beneficial effect, and the whites began to 
visit the springs about 110 years ago. 

The Stafford Springs House is a large and inexpensive hotel near the 
chalybeate spring, on the 1. of the track. 

The train now runs N. for 10 M. across the sparsely populated town of 
Stafford, and at State Line it enters the State of Massachusetts. The 
town of Monson is next crossed (11 M.). Much manufacturing is done 
here along a branch of the Chicopee River, and a fine granite quarry is to 
be seen near the central station, from which great quantities of stone have 
been sent to Albany for the new State House. The extensive buildings 
of the State Almshouse are in this town. 

Station, Palmer, where this route crosses the great- trunk line of the 
Boston and Albany R. R. (Route 21). 

The Ware River R. R., which is to run via Barre to Feterboro, N. H., is com¬ 
pleted from Palmer to Gilbertville and Ware. 

The soil of Ware is singular, even in New England, for its hardness and ster¬ 
ility. It was granted to a company of the veterans of King Philip’s War, but 
after due examination they sold it for 2 cents an acre. President Dwight rods 
through Ware, and said of its soil, “It is like self-righteousness, the more a man 
has of it the poorer he is.” The poetic account of the genesis of Ware asserts 
that 

“ Dame Nature once, while making land, 

Had refuse left of stone and sand ; 

She viewed it well, then threw it down 
Between Coy's Hill and Belchertown, 

And said, ‘ You paltry stuff, lie there. 

And make a town and call it Ware.’ ” 






100 Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 


Stations, Three Rivers (near which the Chicopee River is crossed), Bar¬ 
rets, and Belchertown (Belcher House), a qniet hill-town of Hampshire 
County, whose present name is scarcely an improvement on its original 
appellation (in the colonial era) of Cold Spring. 

From Three Rivers the Athol and Enfield R. R. runs through the sparsely 
populated towns of Enfield, Greenwich, Dana, and New Salem (all the villages by 
the railroad have small inns) to Athol (35 M. from Palmer) on the Vt. and Mass. 
R. R. (see Route 25). 

After running across Belchertown (13 M.) the train passes S. Amherst 
and stops at 

Amherst (Amherst Hotel, $2.50 a day, \ M. from the station), a 
pretty village situated in a romantic district, and distinguished for 
its college. Its society is of that cultured and refined order which is 
usually found in American academic towns, and its aesthetic taste is seen 
in the fine architecture of its churches (notably Grace Church and the 
1st Congregational). The buildings of Amherst College (founded in 
1821) are located on a hill on the edge of the village to the S. On the 
street W. of the buildings are the President’s House, the Library, and 
College Hall. The curious octagonal structure with a bright blue dome, 
which stands in advance of the line of college halls, is devoted to the dis¬ 
play of rare collections. Part of it is occupied by the Lawrence Observ¬ 
atory, and on the upper story are the great * cabinets of minerals and 
meteorites prepared and collected by Prof. C. U. Shepard, a disciple of 
Silliman, who has been for the last 45 years one of the leading physicists 
of America. These collections “ are only surpassed by those of the Brit¬ 
ish Museum and the Imperial Cabinet at Vienna.” They represent an 
immense value, some single pieces having cost thousands of dollars. The 
largest ruby in the world is shown here, being 2 ft. high by 1 ft. in diam¬ 
eter.- It was found in N. Carolina. A sapphire, in the cabinet, weighs 
30 lbs., and many other rare and costly specimens are here preserved. 
On the lower floor is Wood’s Cabinet of geology and palaeontology, em¬ 
bracing over 20,000 specimens. The Nineveh Gallery opens out of Wood’s 
Cabinet, and contains many Oriental and Indian relics, together with a 
collection of rare coins and medals. Along the walls of this room are 
arranged a succession of large * Assyrian sculptures from the palace of 
Sardanapalus, at Nineveh. E. of this building is the line of the older col¬ 
lege-halls, N. College, the old Chapel, and S. College. These are in the 
early Novanglian architecture, and closely resemble the older halls of 
Harvard. At the S. end of this line is the Appleton Cabinet, whose up¬ 
per story, surrounded by barbarous frescos, contains several collections 
embracing 5,900 species of animals and 8,000 species of shells, prepared 
by Prof. Adams, of Amherst, the conchologist. An Herbarium (in the 
same hall) contains 4-5,000 kinds of plants, while seeds, lichens, &c., 
are arranged in other cabinets. 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 101 


On the lower floor is a hall 110 ft. long by 45 ft. wide, wherein are kept 
9,000 specimens of ancient tracks in stone. This wonderful * collection 
is by far the largest in the world, and well illustrates the science of ich- 
nology which first arose at Amherst. The tracks of birds, beasts, and 
reptiles, which have been dead perhaps a myriad of years, and the marks 
of the pattering of rain-storms "which fell through the silent air of pre¬ 
historic ages, are here preserved on the sandstone of the Connecticut 
valley. 

Edward Hitchcock, D. D., the founder of ichnological science, was bom at 
Deerfield, Mass., in 1793. He was connected with Amherst College, either as 
professor or president, from 1825 to 1854, and planned and executed the geological 
survey of Mass., “the first survey of an entire State under the authority of gov¬ 
ernment in the world.” He published 20-25 volumes, mostly on geological sub¬ 
jects, of which the “Elementary Geology” and the “Religion of Geology” 
passed through many editions in America and England. “The Ichnology of 
New England,” published by the State in 1858, illustrated and explained the 
branch of science which he founded. 

E. of a line of old dormitories is a verdant lawn covered with trees, at 
the farther end of which is E. College, which is soon to be taken down on 
account of its insecurity. This building completely hides the new and 
elegant * Memorial Chapel, whose exterior is a beautiful model of Gothic 
architecture. It is cruciform in shape with finely finished rose-windows 
in the transept, and colonettes of polished Scotch granite at various points 
on the outside. The graceful spire is built (as well as the Chapel walls) 
of stone, and within the tower is a marble tablet, containing the names 
of the alumni and past students of Amherst who fell in the War for the 
Union. From the E. side of the chapel is obtained a pleasing view of the 
rich valley E. of Amherst. The Barret Gymnasium is near the E. College, 
and the N. side of the prospective quadrangle is occupied by two fine 
stone buildings; the Walker Hall, a tasteful and ornate structure sur¬ 
mounted by a spired observatory, and fronted by an elegant portico, 
formed by five Gothic arches supported on coupled columns ; and the 
Williston Hall, a substantial stone building. Before leaving the College 
Hill, the College Tower should be ascended for the sake of the * view, 
which is one of the most beautiful in New England, extending over parts 
of the rich Conn, valley and over the rugged and picturesque towns of 
eastern Hampshire. (Stereoscopic views taken from the tower in nine 
directions, as well as of the college buildings, are sold at a store in the 
village.) On the opposite side of Amherst, and about 1M. from the Green, 
is the Massachusetts Agricultural College. Its handsome buildings are 
on the edge of a rich plain, from which fine views are obtained of the 
mountains on the W. and S. On the experimental farm of 400 acres is 
the Durfee Plant-House, where many rare and valuable plants are 
preserved. The “ Aggies ” (as the students here are called by the other 
New England collegians) are drilled to a high state of discipline (infantry 


102 Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 


and light artillery) by military instructors; and of such a nature is the 
field-work, that, since its establishment in 1866, this has become the 
best agricultural school in America. 

Excursions from Amherst to Norwottuck Hill (4 M.), Northampton 
(7 M.), ‘Mounts Holyoke, Tom, and Sugar-Loaf, are easily made. 2 M. E. 
of the R. R. station is the Orient Springs Health Institute, a large, quiet 
hotel on a far-viewing and sequestered hill. Salubrious mineral springs 
are in the vicinity. 

Beyond Amherst are the stations N. Amherst and Leverett. The latter 
is situated in the midst of very picturesque scenery. On the W. is Mount 
Mettawampe (or Toby), the highest peak in the lower Connecticut valley. 
The line now passes through Montague, with the Hunting Hills on the E. 
Stations, S. Montague and Miller’s Falls, where the Vt. and Mass. R. R. 
(Route 25) crosses the present route. Stations, Northfield Farms and 
Nort h fi eld (Northfield Hotel), a charming village with broad, quiet streets, 
built on a plateau above the broad alluvial intervales along the Conn. 
River This peaceful agricultural town was settled in 1673, on the Indian 
lands called Squawkeague. During King Philip’s War frequent and 
fierce attacks were made upon it by the Indians, and troops conveying 
supplies were ambushed and cut to pieces. When Major Treat, with his 
“ flying army ” of Conn, soldiers reached the place, its people evacuated 
it, and passed, under his escort, to a place of safety. It was reoccupied 
in 1685, but Indian attacks soon compelled the decimated settlers to leave, 
and it lay desolate until 1712, when the erection of Fort Dummer afforded 
sure defence. The station-house at S. Vernon (MerriVs Hotel) is on 
the boundary-line between Vermont and Massachusetts. The broad 
intervales and the quiet stream of the Connecticut River are crossed be¬ 
tween Northfield and Vernon. 

At S. Vernon a connection is made with the Ashuelot Railroad, which passes 
the stations, Hinsdale, Ashuelot, Winchester, Westford, and Swanzey (all in New 
Hampshire), and at Keene connects with the Cheshire Railroad. Hinsdale was 
settled by Mass, people in 1683, and was the site of Hinsdale’s and Bridgman’s 
Forts. Throughout the early border-wars it was the scene of numerous attacks 
and skirmishes, but was boldly held as the outpost of colonial civilization. Hins¬ 
dale is now a prosperous town, through which the Ashuelot River flows to the 
Connecticut. From Mine Mt., a few years ago, volcanic signs were seen, and a 
lava-like substance was thrown out. An ancient Indian fort is situated on a hill 
near the river, and isolated from the plateau by a deep, broad trench. Winchester 
was granted by, and settled from, Mass, in 1733, under the name of Arlington, and 
was totally destroyed by an Indian attack in 1745. Swanzey is a large and thinly 
populated town, settled under the same circumstances, and destroyed at the same 
time as Winchester. 

At S. Vernon the Conn. River Railroad from Springfield terminates. 

From S. Vernon the New r London Northern track runs N. about 9 M. 
through the town of Vernon (seats on the r. side of the car command a 
view of the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, and of the river itself). 
This is one of the oldest towns of Vermont, and scores of its early set- 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 103 


tiers were killed by the hostile Indians. The next station is Brattleboro’, 
120 M. from New London. 

Hotels. — Brooks House, the best in Vermont, accommodating 175 - 200 guests, 
$3-3.50 a day; Brattleboro’ House (near the station), $2-2.50 a day; Revere 
House; the Park House (near the Park', and the Wesselhoeft House (founded in 
1845 by a German water-cure physician) are large hotels for summer visitors. 

In 1724 the Legislature of Mass, had a fort built near the river and about 1 M. 
S. of the present village. This fort, called Fort Dummer, was garrisoned by 
troops of the colony and friendly Indians, and served as a shield for the river- 
towns. Though often attacked, it was never lost. The first settlement in the 
State was located here under the protection of the fort, and but two or three 
small villages were established in the S. part until the conquest of Canada, after 
which, from 1760 to 1768, 138 townships were granted in Vermont. In 1753, the 
village near Fort Dummer was named Brattleborough, in honor of Col. Brattle, a 
distinguished Bostonian, who was one of its proprietors. 

Brattleboro’ is a large village well and compactly built, at the junction 
of Whetstone Brook (which affords a considerable water-power) with the 
Connecticut. The location of the village is beautiful, being on an uneven 
plateau above the great river, and surrounded by lofty hills. Main St., 
the principal thoroughfare, is near and parallel to the river, and 100 ft. 
above it. The Brook, with its numerous factories, is near the station, in 
the S. of the village. A beautiful view of Brattleboro’ and its mountain- 
ampitheatre is enjoyed from Cemetery Hill, an eminence just S. of the 
town. The opposite, side of the river is filled by the dark and frowning 
masses of Mine and Wantastiquet Mts. At the N. end of the village is a 
pretty park, on the edge of the plateau, whence a charming view of the 
mountains is gained, while the placid river is seen gliding between its 
broad and fertile intervales. Below the park, in the valley, is the Ver¬ 
mont Asylum for the Insane, a well-conducted institution, connected with 
which is a farm of 600 acres, which is carried on by tbe Inmates of the 
Asylum. From various points (back of St. Michael’s Church, &c.) on the 
riverward side of the plateau, pretty views of the river and Wantastiquet 
Mt. are obtained. 

Daniel Webster was a frequent visitor to Brattleboro’, and at present it is tlie 
home of Holbrook, the War-Governor of Vermont, and Gen. J. W. Phelps, a vet¬ 
eran of the Mexican and Secession Wars, who first enlisted and disciplined ne¬ 
groes in the armies of the Union. Among those born here were Wilbur Fisk, 
the Methodist divine, who twice refused a bishopric, and was President of Mid¬ 
dletown University, 1830-39; R. M. Hunt, the architect; W. M. Hunt, the 
painter of genre pictures; and Larkin G. Mead, the sculptor, who, while yet a 
mere lad, worked one long winter night on a snow-figure at the head of Main St. ; 
and on the next morning (New Year’s) the citizens were startled to see there a 
statue of the “Recording Angel” modelled in purest snow. From that time his 
success has been of rapid growth, and now for several years he has lived and 
worked in Italy. 

In W. Brattleboro’ (Glen House, Vermont House) is the Glenwood Seminary, in 
a romantic site (stages three times daily). 

A bridge crosses the river here, and a road runs into hilly Hinsdale, N. of which 
is the picturesque town of Chesterfield (N. H.), from whose level uplands much 
corn and hay is obtained by unwearied labor. Spofford’s Lake, in Chesterfield 
(10-12 M. from Brattleboro’), is a beautiful sheet of water 8 M. around, said by 
Howells to possess natural charms equal to those of the Italian lakes. On an 
island in its waters are the remains of an ancient Indian settlement. 





104 Route 13. 


NORWICH TO NASHUA. 


Brattleboro’ is the centre of a great net-work of stage-lines. Daily stages ran 
to Guilford (7-10 M.); to Newfane (12 M.), the county-seat; to Townshend (17 
M.). Tri-weekly lines run to Dover (17 M.) and Wardsboro’ (24 M.). More extended 
routes are those to Shelburne Fads (Mass.) via Halifax (cascades on North River, 
and Dun’s Den, 25 ft. long, 5 ft. wide and high, in solid rock) in 27 M. ; to Shel- 
burn Falls (45 M.) via Whitingham, in which are the Sadawga Springs, with a 
hotel, near Sadawga Lake, in whose vicinity, in a poor log-hut, the heresiarch 
Brigham Young was bom in 1801. Since 1844 he has been prophet and president 
of the Mormons, who moved (1846-7), under his guidance, from Nauvoo into the 
Western wilderness, and founded the flourishing colony of Deseret on the shores 
of the Great Salt Lake of Utah ; to Greenfield (32 M.) via Halifax; to N. Adams 
via Whitingham (45 M.) ; to Bennington via Wilmington, (40 M.), passing through 
the thinly settled mountain towns of Marlboro,’ Wilmington, Searsburg, and Wood¬ 
ford ; to Bennington via Somerset (50 M.); to Arlington via Stratton (page 185) 
in 46 M.; to Manchester via Jamaica in 45 M. Direct connections (in time) are 
not made on all these lines. 

From Brattleboro’ the Vermont Central Railroad runs N. to Montreal, Quebec, 
and upper Vermont (Route 26). 


13. Norwich to Nashua. 

Via Norwich and Worcester, and Worcester and Nashua Railroads. Distance, 
106 M., fare, $3.55. 

Norwich to Putnam, see Route 19. Station, Thompson (good hotel), a 
pretty village 1 M. from the station, much resorted to in summer, and 
abounding in neat villas. Stations, Grosvenordale, N. Grosvenordale, 
Wilsondale, after which the train crosses to Webster, in Mass. (Joslin 
House, Sheldon House). In this vicinity is a great, island-studded pond, 
which enjoys two names, — Cliabonakongkomon and Cliargoggagoggman- 
choggagogg. About this lake were the Elysian Fields of the Nipmuck 
Indians and the reputed home of the Great Spirit. A small community 
of the Nipmucks still remains here, supported by the bounty of the State. 
Both at Webster and N. Webster are large manufactories. Station, Ox¬ 
ford, a pretty village, on the Indian lands called Mancharge. 2 M. S. E. 
of the station is Fort Hill, bearing the remains of a bastion ed fort built 
by a community of French Huguenots who settled here in 1683. 13 

years later, an Indian irruption so alarmed them that they abandoned 
the place, and lived in Boston for many years. Oxford Centre has large 
shoe manufactories, and. several cotton and woollen mills are in the town. 
Station, Auburn, then Worcester Junction, and Worcester, where the 
passenger for Nashua changes cars. 

/ 

Connections are also made at this point with the Worcester and Fitchburg R. 
R., and with trains for Boston and Lowell. Passengers for Springfield and Al¬ 
bany, or Providence, should change cars at Worcester Junction. 

Stations, W. Boylston, Oakdale (Oakdale House). Tire line runs N. 
through 

“Rich and rural Worcester, where throu.eh the calm repose 
Of cultured vales and fringing woods the gentle Nashua flows.” 

From Sterling Junction the Worcester and Fitchburg track runs off to 
Fitchburg (14 M.). 



NORWICH TO NASHUA. 


Route 13. 105 


After passing the Wanshaccum Ponds on the 1. and the Clinton Ponds 
on each side of the track, the busy manufacturing town of Clinton (Clin¬ 
ton House) is reached, where the line is crossed by the Boston, Clinton, 
and Fitchburg R. R. Stations, S. Lancaster, and Lancaster (Lancaster 
House), an old and pleasant village, near which is the State Industrial 
School for Girls. The village was attacked in 1676, by 5 bodies of In¬ 
dians. 42 of the people took shelter in Rev. Mr. Rowlandson’s house, 
which was set on fire after a two hours’ siege, and 22 of its defenders 
were killed, the other 20 being made prisoners. Stations, Still River, and 
Harvard (Harvard Hotel), a picturesque highland village, near a lake 
which is 3 M. around, and N. of which are the deep and sequestered Hell 
Pond and Robbins Pond. A considerable Shaker community is settled 
ia the N. E. part of the town. Harvard Centre is 2 M. E. from the sta¬ 
tion (stages run frequently). 

Groton Junction (see Route 25). The next station is Groton Centre, 
a pretty village in a country of hills and lakes. It was attacked in 1676, 
by the Sachem Monoco at the head of 400 Indians, and 40 houses and the 
church were burnt, though the people repulsed all attacks from their ref¬ 
uge in 4 garrison-houses. This same sachem boasted to the besieged that 
he was marching on Concord and Boston, to destroy tlxose towns. With¬ 
in a year he was indeed in Boston, but as a captive, led through the 
streets with a rope around his neck, and afterwards hung on the Com¬ 
mon. Hon. G. S. Boutwell, Gov. of Mass., 1851-3, and Secretary of 
the U. S. Treasury, 1869-73, was for many years a merchant in this 
town. Groton is the seat of Lawrence Academy. 

Station, Pepperell (Prescott House ; the village is across the Nashua 
River, W. of the station), a town named after Sir Wm. Pepperell, the 
first New England baronet, by its first pastor, who was a chaplain in his 
Louisburg expedition. S. W. of the village is the curious hill called 
u The Throne/’ while to the N. are the picturesque Hills of Missitisset. 
This is a quiet village with an old church, whose bell, according to an old 
New England custom, tolls out the number of the letters in the name, 
and of years in the age, of each villager when he or she dies. 

In the graveyard near by is a pretty marble monument from Italy. Otherwise 
the cemetery illustrates Beecher’s words concerning the New England theory, 
“ The dead are utterly gone. God has them in another world. Their state is fixed 
and unalterable. So thinking, it seems of but little worth to garnish their sleep¬ 
ing-places.” The old Prescott mansion is on a broad domain 2J M. from the vil¬ 
lage. This was founded by Col. Wm. Prescott, who led the Middlesex minute- 
-men to Cambridge, and commanded the Americans at the battle of Bunker Hill, 
where the Pepperell Co. lost 16 men. He left the redoubt within push of bay¬ 
onet of the British, warding off their thrusts by his flashing sword. His son. 
Judge Wm., succeeded to the estate, and from him it was inherited by his son, 
Wm. Hickling Prescott, who here wrote a great part of his noble historical works. 
His son now owns the estate. 

Soon after leaving Pepperell tbe line enters the State of New Hamp- 
5* 






106 Route U. SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD. 


shire. Station, Hollis, 3 M. S. E. of the village of that name (stages 
to all trains) which gave 250 men to the Continental Armies. Soon after 
the train enters the city of Nashua (see Route 26). 

14. Saybrook to Hartford. 

Via Connecticut Valley R. R in 44 M. Fare, $1.50. This route follows the 
W. hank of the Conn. River, and a seat on the r. side of the car affords pleasing 
views of the river and the villages on its shores. 

For Saybrook Point see Route 8. After leaving Saybrook and crossing 
the Shore Line R. R. (Route 8), at the Junction, the line runs N. W. 
through the old limits of Saybrook, with the river close at hand. The 
soil of this town is enriched by piling thereon great quantities of white- 
fish, which are caught off its shores, and sold for a trifling sum per thou¬ 
sand. Stations, Essex, Deep River, S. Chester, Chester (rich farming 
country, with an Episcopal academy dating from 1792), Goodspeed’s (vil¬ 
lage across the river), Arnold’s (near which the village of E. Haddam is 
seen on the E. bank), and Haddam. Near Arnold’s, the mouth of Sal¬ 
mon River is seen on the E. bank, and 30 Mile, or Lord’s Island divides 
the Connecticut some distance above. The ancient territory of the 
“ fierce and warlike ” Wongung Indians embraced Haddam and E. Had¬ 
dam. They parted with their birthright for 30 coats, and the land was 
settled by people from Hartford. Quarries of some importance have been 
worked here, and the annual catch of shad is considerable. Stations, 
Walkley Hill, Higganum (a thriving river-landing and ferry), Maromas, 
and Middletown. 

Middletown (* McDonough House, 150 guests), “ the Forest City,” is a 
beautiful academic city, built on ground gently rising from the river at 
the bottom of a great bend. Its maritime interests are along the wharves 
which run out from Water St.; the seat of trade and of the hotels is on 
Main St.; while High St. is above all, and is lined with fine houses and 
carefully kept gardens. The Custom House and Court House (of Middle¬ 
sex Co.) are plain stone buildings, and there are several handsome churches 
in the city. The manufactures include pumps, webbing, and tape ($ 600,000 
a year), rules and chisels, sewing-machines, and several companies make 
britannia and silver-plated ware. The safe and convenient harbor (10 ft. 
of water at the wharves) renders this the last port on the river for heavy 
vessels. 

The campus of Wesleyan University fronts on High St. (which, with 
its double lines of stately trees, Charles Dickens called the finest rural 
street he had ever seen). The University appertains to the Methodist 
sect, and sustains a high reputation. In the work of the intellectual up¬ 
lifting of the Methodist clergy it has borne a prominent part. Besides 
the old buildings in the usual Novanglian style, there are three fine new 


SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD. Route U. 107 


edifices of Portland sandstone. Rich Hall contains the library of about 
20,000 volumes. Judd Hall (the gift of Orange Judd, the agriculturalist) 
is a finely finished building, containing admirable natural-hi story collec¬ 
tions. Some of these cabinets are unexcelled in America, having been 
collected and arranged by scientists who have spent years in special 
studies. Casts of skeletons and parts of colossal animals whose species 
have long been extinct are arranged here. The Memorial Chapel is a 
fine work of architecture. Its lower room is used for daily college 
prayers, while above is the church proper, with memorial windows which 
cost $ 700 each. 

That on the left is in honor of the past students who died as soldiers of the 
Union, and bears the inscriptions, “ The beauty of Israel is slain upon her high 
places”; “It is sweet and fitting to die for one’s fatherland,” in the Latin of 
Horace; “The earth is a grave of heroes,” in the Greek of Homer. Under the 
symbolic figure of a pelican are the names of the slain. The Wesleyan Guard 
(Co. G., 4th Conn. Reg.) went from the University, On the r. opposite is a win¬ 
dow bearing portraits of four presidents of the University: Wilbur Fisk, D. D. 
(1830- 39) ; Stephen Olin, D. D., author of “Travels in the East,” &c. (1842-51) ; 
Nathan Bangs, D. D., an itinerant minister, 1801-20, agent and editor of the 
Book Concern, 1820-36, and afterwards President of the University; and A. W. 
Smith, LL. D., a prominent mathematician. In 1871, the University bad 10 in¬ 
structors and 153 students. 

The * view from the tower of the old chapel is delightful, embracing 
the bay-like river and its riparian hills, the city below, and the busy quar¬ 
ries at Portland, the long and imposing buildings of the Insane Asylum 
on a hill in the S., the Industrial School, and the rolling hills to the W. 
On this hill was the far-viewing fortress of Mattabesick, the aboriginal 
chief Sowheag, and around its base the Massachusetts immigrants settled 
in 1653. Brissot de Warville, a French tourist (in 1788), asserted that 
“ from the hill over Middletown is one of the finest and richest prospects 
in America.” The villas and gardens of High St. extend on each side of 
the campus, and not far from it is the Indian Plill Cemetery, with a hand¬ 
some sepulchral chapel at the entrance, and fine views from its hills over 
leagues of farm-studded valleys. Here is buried Gen. J. K. F. Mans¬ 
field, who stormed Monterey, was highly distinguished at Buena Yista, 
fortified Washington City (1861), and was mortally wounded while leading 
his corps at Antietam. In this vicinity is the Industrial School for Girls, 
a model institution with fine buildings surrounded by broad lands, where 
the inmates are given three hours daily for study, and do their own work. 

On a high hill 1| M. S. E. of the city are the vast and imposing build¬ 
ings of the State General Hospital for the Insane. The main building 
is of Portland stone, and has a length of 768 ft. with accommodations for 
450 patients. It stands on spacious grounds which cover 230 acres of the 
hill, and commands a fine view of the city and the widenings of the river. 

Farther down the river are points often visited by geologists. Feldspar is 
found here in such quantities as to make it an item of trade, as it is used in mak¬ 
ing porcelain. The lead mines so actively worked during the Revolution have 
long been abandoned. 



108 Route 15. NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. 


On Main St. near the McDonough House is the Berkeley Divinity 
School, an Episcopal institution under the presidency of Bishop Williams. 
It was founded in 1857, has graduated 122 men, and had, in 1871, 12 pro¬ 
fessors and 24 students. The chapel (of St. Luke) is a small hut beauti¬ 
ful Gothic structure, built of stone and having very rich stained windows. 
The students' attend service in robes, and their singing is fine. Near by 
and on Main St. is the elegant church of the Holy Cross (Episcopal) built 
of Portland stone, with a graceful timber roof. The N. and S. Congrega¬ 
tional churches are fine buildings, and Main St. has three banks, built in 
the style of bank-architecture peculiar to New England, —with one high, 
solid story, of stone or brick. The quaint little Parthenon which is used 
for a Court House is on the same street. 

Near the N. end of Main St. (with its large Roman Catholic church) is the pier of 
the Portland ferry. The quarries of red sandstone at Portland are of continental 
fame, and are situated near the pier at the other end of the ferry, whence also is 
gained a fine view of Middletown and the graceful Air Line Railroad bridge. The 
first quarry approached is the deepest, and from the sharp edge of the hill one can 
look down into a vast chasm from which has been taken the material for hun¬ 
dreds of fine buildings, and for fronts of long blocks in nearly every Atlantic city. 
The second quarry is the largest and oldest; and beyond this is a third. These 
works employ 800 men, great numbers of draught-animals, and 40 vessels. The 
stone is easy to work, of a durable character, and of a rich shade of brown. 

The New Haven, Middletown, and Willimantic R. R., runs from the former 
city to Middletown, and here crosses the Connecticut River on a fine iron bridge. 
When the link between Middletown and Willimantic is completed, the Air Line 
from Boston to New York will run on the rails of this line. From New Haven to 
Middletown, 23 b M., fare, 85c. 

A branch track leaves the New Haven and Springfield Railroad at Berlin, and 
runs 10 M. S. E. to Middletown. 

The steamers between Hartford and New York stop at this point, generally late 
in the afternoon, and then proceed down the river, from whose mouth Middle- 
town is 34 M. distant. 

After leaving Middletown the Conn. Valley Railroad runs N. about 15 
M. passing through the towns of Cromwell, Rocky Hill, and Wethersfield, 
and enters the city of Hartford. 


15. Mew Haven to Morthampton, 

Via N. H. and N. R. R., in 84 M. 

This line is often called the Canal R. R., since it follows the line of the old 
Farmington Canal for a considerable distance. It runs through a quiet agricul¬ 
tural country, and terminates near the W. centre of Massachusetts, on the line 
of the (projected) Mass. Central R. R. Shortly after its completion in 1849 it was 
leased by the New York and New Haven R. R. for 20 years, and on the expiration 
of that time it reverted to the original proprietors. 

The line passes West Rock soon after leaving New Haven, and enters 
the valley of Mill River, which it follows for nearly 20 M. The town of 
Hamden, which is soon entered, is in a valley between the W. Rock Mts. 
and the E. Rock Mts., two ranges which run N. nearly parallel until they 
unite in Southington, and then advance into Massachusetts. Mt. Carmel 
(near the station of the same name) is a lofty spur from the E. Rock 


NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. Route 15. 109 


Range, and is composed of greenstone. Hamden is a quiet country town, 
on fertile lands. The stations, Cheshire and Hitchcock’s, are in the town 
of Cheshire, a picturesque farming district, in one of whose villages is 
situated the Episcopal Academy of Conn, (military), which dates from 
1801. Plantsville and Southington are in a town by the latter name, 
formerly noted for extensive tin-ware manufactories, but now depending 
on iron-works. Station, Plainville, with the Farmington Canal on the 
r. and the Blue Hills on the 1. At this point the Hartford, Providence, 
and Fishkill Railroad crosses the present route. Station, Farmington. 
The village is seen about ^ M. away in a beautiful situation near the 
broad, rich meadows of the Farmington River. A broad and shaded 
street 2 M. long composes the village. This fair and fertile valley was 
the Tunxis of the Indians, who dwelt here in great numbers. Many of 
their cemeteries and fishing-places have been found. The land was 
bought from them by immigrants from Bostou and Roxbury, who settled 
here in 1640. It was the pastor of this village who preached to the troops 
marching to Boston in 1775, from the text, “Play the man for your 
country, and for the cities of your God; and the Lord do that which 
seemeth him good. ” 

From Farmington a branch track runs to New Hartford (14 M.), by the stations 
Unionville, Burlington, Collinsville, and Pine Meadow. At Collinsville (Valley 
House, good) the Farmington River is dammed, and affords a great power which 
is used by extensive works for the manufacture of axes and edged tools. The 
business was founded by Mr. Collins, and now employs 6-700 men, who, with 
i their families, make up a populous village. 15,000 steel ploughs are sent out 
yearly to all parts of the world, and 200,000 Brazilian hoes have been made here 
in one year. Vast numbers of Mexican machetes are turned out, and more axes 
than at any other factory in America. Here, also, were made the pikes for John 
Brown’s raid on Virginia. 

At Collinsville the Conn. Western R. R. forms a junction with the branch. 

Beyond Farmington is Avon, a pretty village, where Silliman found 
“ remnants of primeval New England customs.” On the E., Talcott Mt. 
is plainly seen, with a lofty tower on its top. (See Environs of Hartford.) 

Stations, Weatogue and Simsbury, in the town of Simsbury, which was 
settled in 1670 on the Indian lands of Massacoe. During King Philip’s 
War the colonists buried their goods and fled, but the town was destroyed 
by the Indians and left so long, neglected that the wilderness reclaimed it, 

! and the returning settlers never found their buried treasures. On a hill 
W. of the track is the principal village, ambushed in trees. Just before 
reaching Granby, the next station, the Farmington River, which has 
followed the track for 15 M., turns sharply to the S. E. through a pass 
in the mountain, and flows down into the Connecticut. Station, Granby 
(three small hotels in the town), in a rugged farming town. Here was 
located Newgate Prison (State of Conn.),— a grim pile on the top of Copper 
I Hill, where the prisoners were confined in the cavernous shafts and pas¬ 
sages of a copper-mine, —abandoned in 1760. Some of the convicts lived 






110 Route 15. NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. 


60 ft. below tlie earth’s surface, amid unceasing darkness. The mouth cf 
the main shaft was covered by a massive stone building, and the prisoners 
were guarded by 20 soldiers. This subterranean labyrinth served for a 
State Prison from 1775 to 1827. The State says that the average mor¬ 
tality during that period was less than that in the other American prisons, 
but harsh stories went abroad about the gloomy caverns of Newgate. 

Soon after leaving Granby the line enters Massachusetts, and runs along 
the pond of Congamuck, stopping at South wick (Union Hotel). Then 
the train descends on to the plains of Westfield, and, passing through the 
village (see Route 22), crosses Westfield River, and stops at the station at 
the junction of the Boston and Albany Railroad (Route 22). Soon after 
leaving Westfield the train passes into the valley of the Manliam River, 
and stops at Southampton, under the shadow of high hills. After leaving 
the latter place, the long ridge of Mt. Tom looms upon the r., while 
Pomeroy’s Mt. is farther away on the 1. Easthampton is now reached 
{Eyrie House, Mansion House). This is the seat of Wi-lliston Seminary, 
a high graded institution attended by 180-200 students. This seminary 
has been endowed with $250,000 by Hon. Samuel Williston, who has also 
given $125,000 to Amherst College, large sums to Mt. Holyoke Seminary, 
and has 3 times rebuilt the Payson Church in Easthampton. He began 
business by making buttons at home with his wife’s aid, after which he 
perfected machinery, and erected a factory. His income in 1864 was 
$ 200 , 000 . 

Vulcanized rubber and rubber thread, cotton yarn, suspenders, buttons 
(1200 gross per day), and other goods are made here. 

From Easthampton, Mt. Holyoke is full in sight to the E. After pass¬ 
ing near the great bend of the Connecticut River, the train enters North¬ 
ampton (Route 24). 

Station, Florence, where are the extensive manufactories of the Flor¬ 
ence Sewing-Machine Company. The works surround a quadrangle, and 
20-22,000 machines are turned out every year. Stations, Leeds (with 
large sewing-silk factories), Haydenville (brass-works), and Williamsburg 
{Hampshire House), a pretty village among the hills, and at present the 
terminus of the line. 

Cummington is a lofty mountain-town, 12-14 M. W. of Williamsburg. Here 
was born, in 1816, H. L. Dawes, wlio was for some time a lawyer and journalist, 
and who has been one of the most useful members of Congress since his election 
in 1857. 

William Cullen Bryant, born at Cummington in 1794, is one of the lead¬ 
ing poets of America. His verses were published before he was ten years old, 
and the grandly solemn poem of “Thanatopsis ” was written while he was in his 
18th year. For most of the time from 1815 to 1S25 he was a lawyer in W. Mass. ; 
but in 1826 he connected himself with the “New York Evening Post,” with which 
lie still remains. He has made several tours in Europe, and since 1845 has lived 
in an old mansion at Roslyn, L. I. Besides several volumes of prose and poetry 
of great sweetness and grandeur, he has published the best translation extant of 
the Iliad and the Odyssey of Homer. 






BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. Route 16. Ill 


16. Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Via Naugatuck R. R. in 62 M. Fare, §1.85. 

4 M. from Bridgeport the train crosses the broad Housatonic River. 
At Naugatuck Junction the rails of the Shore Line Railroad are left, and 
the line turns to the N. E. and follows the Housatonic as far as Derby. 
The village of Birmingham (Basset House) is picturesquely located on a 
high headland at the junction of the Housatonic and Naugatuck Rivers. 
Commerce was formerly carried on on a large scale from this point, its 
vessels running to the West Indies, but manufactures have now taken 
possession of Derby. Great numbers of pins, tacks, brads, corsets, crin¬ 
oline, stockings, and melodeons (Sterling’s) are made here. The great 
Housatonic Dam is about f M. from the village and affords an immense 
water-power. It cost $500,000, and was three years in building, being 
constructed of solid masonry in the form of an arch, with the convex sur¬ 
face turned toward the pressure of the stream. The dam is 600 ft. long, 
and has 23 ft. fall, and the heavy roaring of the plunging waters can be 
; heard miles away at night. 

Gen. David Humphreys was born at Derby in 1752. He was Washington’s aide, 
and long resided at Mount Vernon, after which he was minister to Portugal and 
Spain, and commander of the Conn, militia. 

Isaac Hull was born here in 1775. He entered the navy, and in 1800 captured 
Port Platte, in Hayti. He distinguished himself in the Tripolitan War, and in 
183 2, commanding the “ Constitution,” he escaped from a British squadron in hot 
pursuit, by warping his ship ahead during a calm. A month later he met the 
British frigate “Guerriere,” and captured her after a short, sharp action. Gen. 
Wm. Hull, born here, 1753, was condemned to death in 1812, for surrendering the 
Army of the Northwest, at Detroit, but President Madison pardoned him. 

An omnibus runs from Birmingham to its sister-village of Ansonia, passing 
along breezy heights which afford fine views of the Naugatuck Valley and the 
rural homes of Derby scattered on the Trans-Naugatuck hills. In the N. end of 
Birmingham a small Green is passed, with a Saxon-towered Episcopal Church, 
and near it are churches of the Methodists, Congregationalists, and Catholics. 

A Railroad runs from Ansonia to New Haven direct. 

Ansonia (Ansonia House), the next station beyond Derby, is a thriving 
borough near the falls in the Naugatuck. It was founded in 1838, and 
j has become the seat of numerous rolling-mills and foundries, a large 
hoop-skirt factory, and manufactories of clocks, lightning-rods, and brass 
wares. Some fine mansions are built on the heights over the river, and 
from near the tall stone church is gained a neat valley-view, embracing a 
great part of the old Indian domain of Paugussett. 

At Seymour, the next station, is a small village founded by Gen. 
I Humphrey in 1810, for the manufacture of cotton, paper, and woollen 
goods. For the latter purpose he had imported large flocks of Spanish 
i merino sheep. 

Beacon Falls has a water-power which is used by factories making a 
great number of woollen shawls. Station, Naugatuck, which is the 








112 Route 16. BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. 


seat of the Goodyear Glove (and Rubber) Co., a Pin Co., and of Tuttle’s 
Works, which turn out 400,000 rakes and hoes each year. Naugatuck is 
derived from the Indian phrase, Nau-ko-tunk, meaning “ one large tree,” 
from a lofty and prominent tree which once stood on the Rock Rimmon, 
near the Falls Station. Union City, and Waterbury (see Route 11). 

Junction is formed here with the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill Railroad, 
and also with the Watertown Branch. Watertown (Warren House), about 6 M. 
distant, is a quiet village in a thinly settled and hilly farming town. 

Stations, Waterville (where pen-knives are manufactured), Plymouth, 
(near which are fine quarries of white granite), Camp’s Mills, and Litch¬ 
field. The beautiful village of Litchfield (Mansion House, U. S. House) 
is about 4 M. from the station (stages connect with trains). This is the 
county seat of Litchfield County, and once claimed jurisdiction to the 
Mississippi River. 

The Royal Charter of Connecticut in 1664 defined that colony as “all that part 
of His Majesty’s dominions, in New England, in America, bounded the E. by 
Narragansett Bay, ... on the N. by the line of the Massachusetts Plantation, 
and on the S. by the sea. And in longitude . . . from said Narragansett Bay on 
E. to the South Sea on the W. part, with the islands thereunto belonging.” Sub¬ 
sequently royal grants detached from this vast belt parts of New York and 
Pennsylvania, although much of the tract in the latter State (including the Valley 
of Wyoming), was settled from Conn. At the close of the Revolution the State 
ceded this, her western domain, to the Union, reserving a tract on the S. of Lake 
Erie, as wide as Conn, and 120 M. long, and comprising 4,000,000 acres. Of this 
land 500,000 acres (the “Fire Lands ”) were granted to the towns which had been 
destroyed during the war (New London, Fairfield, &c.), and the remainder of the 
Western Reserve was sold to a real-estate company for §1,200,000, which sum 
was carefully invested as the school and church fund of Connecticut. 

The village of Litchfield is situated on a broad plateau, 1,100 ft. above 
the sea, and consists mainly of two broad and embowered streets, which 
cross each other at right angles. The hotels and county buildings are 
near the intersection of these avenues; and front on a pretty Green, which 
is adorned by a soldiers’ monument. Beneath the words “ Pro Patria ” 
is a list of nearly 60 men of Litchfield, who died in the armies of the 
Union. 2-3 M. from the village, on the S. W., is Bantam Lake, con¬ 
taining 900 acres, the largest lake in the State, the haunt of many fish, 
and scarcely yet invaded by the factories, which have mined the charm 
of so many of the New England lakes. Near North St. (to the 1.) is 
Prospect Hill, from which a fascinating * view is offered, embracing the 
wilderness of high hills which surround the plateau and stretch away in 
the W. Bantam Lake is seen, silver-shining between its sinuous shores, 
about a mile distant, and the great elms and old mansions of Litchfield 
are on the plain above it. Near the corner of North St., with the road 
diverging to the hill, was the Beecher mansion, which has been moved 
(1872) to Spring Hill (near the end of N. St.), where it forms a part of 
Dr. Buel’s (private) asylum for the insane. On South St. is the old Wol¬ 
cott Mansion, built about 1760, by Gov. Wolcott (see Windsor), and 


BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. Route 16. 113 


where was bona Oliver Wolcott, an officer of the Continental Army, Secre¬ 
tary of the U. S. Treasury (1795-1800), Gov. of Conn. (1818-27), and 
founder of the flourishing village of Wolcottrille. The leaden statue of 
George III., which stood on the Bowling Green in New York City, was 
brought to this house, and melted into bullets by the Governor’s daughters. 
Many other solemn old colonial mansions are along the roads, and French 
roofs have not yet invaded this dignified seclusion. This air of antiquity, 
together with the balmy, cool, and salubrious breezes which dwell among 
these hills, have given Litchfield a high place among the restful and un¬ 
fashionable of the summer-resorts. 

Considerable quantities of copper and nickel have been found in the town ; but 
the latter mineral is so firmly united with other elements that it will not pay for 
extraction. In this town of 3,100 inhabitants, there are 10 churches, of which 
several belong to the Episcopal sect. 

Among the pleasant drives in the vicinity is that to Bantam Lake, with its 
umbrageous groves (2-3 M.) ; to Mount Tom, and to the village of Morris, with 
a quaint old country inn, unchanged since the colonial days (5-6 M.). From Mt. 
Tom, on a clear day, the Catskill Mts. may be seen, and on the E. the hills beyond 
the Conn. River. 

Litchfield was bought of the colony of Conn, in 1718, for about £ 300, and was 
settled in 1720. The village was surrounded by a palisade, lest the Indians 
should return in force to their ancient and favorite hunting-grounds of Bantam. 
In 1784, Judge Tapping Reeve (who married Aaron Burr’s sister) established a 
Law School here, and in 1798, James Gould, Judge of the Supreme Court of Conn., 
joined him, and remained 40 years. This was then the most renowned law 
school in America, and 474 lawyers were educated here. The first Young Ladies’ 
Seminary in the Union was established at Litchfield. The town has produced 
many able men, chief among whom are Beecher and Bushnell. Lyman Beecher, 
D. D., “the father of more brains than any other man in America,” was pastor 
here 1810 - 26. Of his many illustrious children, the most famous is 

Henry Ward Beecliter, born at Litchfield in 1813. He was educated 
at Lane Seminary (Cincinnati), of which his father was president. From 1837 to 
1847 he was settled in Indiana, and in the latter year he became pastor of the 
Plymouth Church, in Brooklyn. This position he has now held for 26 years, 
during which time he has won a world-wide fame for his oratorical powers, be¬ 
sides building up a powerful church with active auxiliary branches. His vigo¬ 
rous and picturesque style is very effective and convincing ; and it may safely be 
said that, during the past 20 years, he has been the foremost of the clergy of 
America. 

Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, daughter of Lyman Beecher, was born at Litch¬ 
field in 1812, and married Rev. Calvin E. Stowe in 1832. In 1852 she published 
“ Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” an antislavery novel, which sent a thrill throughout the 
republic and the world. She has since published “ Dred,” “ Agnes of Sorrento,” 
“ The Pearl of Orr’s Island,” and many charming stories of New England life. 

After leaving Litchfield the train stops at Wolcottville (founded by 
Gov. Wolcott in 1802), the seat of large woollen-mills, brass-works, and 
manufactories of plated goods. In this town, John Brown, of Ossawa- 
tomie, the invader of Virginia, was born in 1800. Station, Burrville, 
after which the train reaches 

Winsted (Clarke House, $2; Beardsley House), a long, narrow vil¬ 
lage between steep hills on the line of Mad River. Iron and steel works 
abound here; pins, scythes, hoes, clocks, and.other articles are also 
made. Some distance above the village, on a high plateau, is Long Lake, 

H 




114 Route 17. BRIDGEPORT TO THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

which contains 1,500 acres, and is nearly 4 M. long. The waters rush 
turbulently through a narrow channel at its end, and form the impetu¬ 
ous Mad River, which descends 200 ft. in 2 M. 

At Winsted the Naugatuck R. R. forms a junction with the Conn. Western R. 
R. running from Hartford to Millerton on the Harlem R. R. (Route 20). 


17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Via the Housatonic R. R. in 110 M; (to Pittsfield). Fare, $3-30. 

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport (on Route 8) the line enters the valley 
of the Pequanock, which it follows for 15 M. through a thinly settled 
country abounding in low hills. Stations, Stepney, Botsford, and New¬ 
town, the latter being a village about \ M. from the R. R., situated on a 
high hill in the midst of Newtown, the Patatuck of the aborigines. It 
is here, according to Beecher, that “the hills first begin to show moun¬ 
tainous symptoms.” At Hawleyville the Shepaug Valley R. R. comes in 
from Litchfield (see Route 16), and at Brookfield Junction, a short rail¬ 
road runs S. W. to Danbury (see Route 18). Station, Brookfield, beyond 
which the track approaches and crosses the Housatonic River, and stops 
at New Milford (New Milford House). This is a fine village near the 
junction of the Housatonic and Aspetuck Rivers, with a wide, verdant 
common, and well-shaded streets. A silver-mine was worked here in 
1790, and much marble and slate has been quarried in the hills. At pres¬ 
ent, factories for making buttons, boots, hats, and twine sustain the 
place, which is furthermore one of the centres of the tobacco trade in the 
valley. Stations, Merwinsville, and Kent (restaurant in the station ; 
Kent Plains Hotel). This sweet valley was the home of the Scaghticoke 
Indians, and here the Moravians founded a mission. The cause which 
more than any other forced the Christian tribes of New England to lose 
their identity by miscegenation operated in full strength here. 100 men 
of this tribe joined the Continental Army, and but few of them ever re¬ 
turned. So several negroes and a few poor whites joined the community ; 
and from the combination arose the present representatives of the tribe, / 
who plough and plant, wear pants and go to church, and otherwise are 
such Indians as Massasoit never dreamed of. President Woolsey, of 
Yale College, has spent much time with this fragment of the Scaghti- 
cokes. On a lofty plain W. of Kent (ascended by a long and arduous 
road) are the ‘Spectacle Ponds , — two lakes surrounded by forests and 
connected by a short strait. From the round hill above the N. Pond the 
fittingness of the name is clear. It is said that a noble view opens to 
the W. from this summit, including the Mts. of Sharon and Cornwall, 
the Hudson Highlands, and the Catskills, 60 M. away. (When the editor 
made this ascent, in May, 1872, the remoter mts. were veiled by blue 


S. NORWALK TO DANBURY. • Route 18. 115 


heat-mist.) The next two stations are in Cornwall, which town was sold 
in 1738 for $ 1,500 (46 square M.), and settled in the same year. It is in 
a double sense the roughest township in the county. S. Cornwall is sit¬ 
uated in a deep valley, and here a Foreign Mission School was founded in 
1810. In 1820 there were 19 Indians and 6 Pacific-Islanders studying at 
the school, and here, in 1818, died Obookiah, the gifted Hawaiian. 

Daily stages run from Cornwall Bridge to Litchfield and Sharon, and from W. 
Cornwall to Goshen and the villages of Cornwall. 

Goshen is a lofty town, in which are 5 ponds, and Ivy Mt. (the highest in the 
State). It is distinguished for the rich English dairy cheese (a staple of Litch¬ 
field County) which it produces. Here, in 1800, was born Daniel S. Dickinson, an 
eminent jurist, and senator from New York. 

The train now runs along the narrow valley of the Housatonic with the 
ridge of Sharon on the W. Just beyond that ridge, and extending thence 
to the N. Y. line, is a rich and fertile valley. 

Station, Falls Village (Dudley House ; and a snug country inn in the 
glen over the river). The Great Falls of the Housatonic are near the 
village, and form a fine sight, the river plunging over rocky ledges for 60 
ft., with a tremendous roaring. A near scrutiny of the Falls is unad- 
visable, as its vicinity is crowded with squalid Irish shanties, while the 
It. It. repair-shops are situated above them on the site of the Ames 
foundries, which produced some of the heaviest iron fortress-cannon dur¬ 
ing the War of 1861 -65. When President Dwight wrote so enthusiasti¬ 
cally of these Falls (about 1800) they were surrounded by the fitting 
adjuncts of a great primeval forest. 2-3 M. N. W. of the village is 
Mt. Prospect , whose cleared summit is gained by a rude wood-road, and 
affords a view of the broad valley of the Housatonic. At the foot of 
Prospect is a remarkable group of rocks, the darkest, deepest nook of 
which is called the Wolfs Den. W. of the village is the far-viewing 
Gallows Hill, where, according to the tradition, the corpse of a negro was 
once found hanging from a tree, and no one ever knew how he came there, 
or who he was. 

Daily stages to Salisbury and Lime Rock. Station, Canaan (two 
country hotels), a small village situated on the upper edge of the valley 
of the Blackberry River, with the great, ridgy mass of Canaan Mt. on 
the S. 

Tbe Conn. Western R. R. crosses the present route at Canaan, and runs W. 
through the rare scenery of Salisbury (see Route 20). At the next station 
(Ashley Falls), the line enters the County of Berkshire and State of Massachu¬ 
setts. For the remaining 35 M. of this railroad line see the “ Berkshire Hills” 
(Route 23). 

18. S. Horwalk to Danbury. 

Yia Danbury and Norwalk R. R. in 24 M. Fare, 90c. Stations, Nor¬ 
walk, Winnepauk, Kent, Wilton, Cannon's, Georgetoim, Ridgefield. 








11G Route 18. S. NORWALK TO DANBURY. 


The latter village is 3 M. from the station, on a branch track, and is 
situated on a lofty ridge, called by the Indians Caudatowa. 

During Tryon’s raid into the State (May, 1777), the militia withstood the Hes¬ 
sians behind a barricade in Ridgefield. It cost Tryon 170 men to take the frail 
defence, but Gen. Wooster, the American leader, was mortally wounded. S. G. 
Goodrich was born here in 1793. He Avrote 170 books, most of which were under 
the name of “Peter Parley.” His works attained the enormous sale of over 
7,000,000 volumes. His brother, Rev. C. A. Goodrich, and liis son, F. B. Good- 
I’icli (“ Dick Tinto ”), have also won fame as authors. 

Station, Reading, where Putnam’s rude eloquence quelled the revolt of 
the Conn, line (1779). Joel Barlow, born here in 1755, some time minister 
to France, was author of a fine, but forgotten epic, the <e Columbiad. ” 
In 17.83 - 86, he was one of the authors of the “ Anarchiad,” in connec¬ 
tion with David Humphreys, Jonatlian Trumbull, and Timothy Dwight, 
concerning which transatlantic critics wrote the pasquinade beginning, 

“ David and Jonathan. Joel and Timothy, 

Over the ocean set up the hymn of the —” 

Crossing Bethel (junction of the Shepaug Valley R. R.), the train en¬ 
ters Danbury (Wooster House, Turner House). 

Danbury was “ankle-deep in pork-fat” in May, 1777, when Tryon’s Hessians 
bad destroyed the army supplies collected here. It is said that, as the raiders 
were advancing up a hill near by, a reckless farmer rode to its crest and shouted, 
“'Halt, the whole universe, break off by kingdoms ! ” Alarmed at such a formi¬ 
dable force, the Hessians halted, threAv out artillery to the front, and deployed a 
line of skirmishers. In 1764 Robert Sandeman came to Danbury (where he died 
in 1771), and founded a sect on the dogma that “faith is a bare belief in a bare 
truth.” In 1870 there were 20 members of this church in the U. S.,and they were 
divided into 2 sects. 

The first American hat-factory was started here in 1780, when Zadoc 
Benedict, with 3 men, made 3 hats a day. Now there are 10 companies 
in the business, with $ 500,000 capital, 4 of which make 216,000 hats a 
year. The Danbury Shirt Co. turns out 230,000 shirts each year, and 
many Bartram and Fenton sewing-machines are made here. The borough 
has about 10,000 inhabitants, 9 churches, 4 banks, a public library, the 
county buildings, and a great school, of which Danbury is justly proud. 
Main St. is 1^ M. long, and from Deer Hill a neat view of the town is 
gained. Lake Kenosha (2M.) is a favorite resort, and is a pretty lake, 
with good boating and fishing. Powerful water-works supply the 
borough. 

Near Danbury is a pretty cemetery of 100 acres, containing a monu¬ 
ment 40 ft. high, erected by the Masons of Conn, to Gen. Wooster. He 
founded the first lodge in the State (Hiram, of New Haven), and was shot 
at the Ridgefield fight. A monument is raised to 67 soldiers (in the Se¬ 
cession War) of Danbury, who are buried elsewhere. 

“ They sleep their last sleep, No sound shall awake them 

They have fought their last battle, To glory again.” 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 19. 117 


19. Boston to Uew York. 

New York and New England Railroad to Norwich, connecting at New London 
with the Norwich line of steamers. 

The train leaves the terminal station at the foot of Summer St. (PI. 39), 
running across the flats on the W. of Boston Harbor, then through S. 
Boston and over the S. Bay. It then passes through the rural district of 
Dorchester, so lately annexed to Boston, and crosses the Neponset River 
several times near the suburban stations of Mattapan and Hyde Park. 
Near Readville it crosses the Boston and Providence line, and then stops 
at Dedham station, N. of which is the large and prosperous village which 
contains the handsome Court House of Norfolk County. Near Dedham 
are several factories on the water-power afforded by Mother Brook, which 
is the oldest of American canals. It was made in 1640, in order to in¬ 
crease the navigable facilities of the Neponset River by turning part of 
Charles River into it. The canal is 3 M. long, and has a fall of 60 ft. 

Fisher Ames was bom at Dedham in 1758. He was an eminent lawyer and 
orator, and was the leader in Congress during the era of the Confederation. His 
“ Brutus ” letters, published in the Boston papers, were political writings which 
caused a great sensation. 

A branch railroad runs in 2 M. to the main line of the Boston and Providence 
Railroad. This forms the nearest route from Boston to Dedham. 

The stations, Ellis’s, Norwood, Everett’s, Winslow’s, Tilton’s, Walpole, 
Campbell’s, Norfolk, City Mills, and Franklin, are then passed. The lat¬ 
ter town was named after Benjamin Franklin, and a hint was conveyed to 
him (then at Paris) that a good church-bell would be an acceptable pres¬ 
ent in return for the honor conferred on him. The philosopher sent the 
town a collection of valuable books, observing that the people were prob¬ 
ably “more fond of sense than sound.” 

Nathaniel Emmons, D. D., one of the leaders of the Hopkinsian 
school of theology, was pastor here for 54 years. At Walpole the line 
from Framingham to New Bedford crosses the track. Shortly after leav¬ 
ing Franklin, the line crosses the Woonsocket Division of the N. Y. & N. 
E. R. R. at Mill River Junction, and M. farther on it crosses the 
Providence and Worcester R. R. (Route 10) at Blackstone. Stations, 
Millville, Ironstone, E. Douglas, Douglas, soon after passing which the 
line enters Connecticut and stops at E. Thompson, whence a branch 
railroad runs 18 M. to the N. W., through the Massachusetts towns of 
Webster, Dudley, and Southbridge. After crossing diagonally the large 
town of Thompson (much visited in summer), the train passes on the rails 
of the Norwich and Worcester Division, at Putnam (a village containing 
several cotton and woollen factories). 

A daily stage runs from Putnam to Woodstock, starting generally late in 
the afternoon. Elmwood Hall, at Woodstock, is a line summer hotel (opening 
June 15), surrounded by pleasant lawns. From this mountain village are obtained 
noble views. “ It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and its prospect, the Connec- 





118 Route 19. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


ticut. Valley in miniature.” (Beecher.) Woodstock Lake, 1 M. from the village, 
is a beautiful and sequestered slieet of water, abounding in fish and encircled by 
forests. 

S. W. of Woodstock (passing Crystal Lake on the way) is Ashford, a secluded 
rural town. Here was born Thomas Knowlton, who fought in the six campaigns 
ending in the conquest of Canada, and then in the Havana expedition. He led 
the Ashford minute-men to the lines at Cambridge, and fought with them at 
Bunker Hill. While commanding a light infantry reg. he was killed at its head in 
the battle of Harlem Heights (1776). 

His grand-nephew was the knightly Lyon. Nathaniel Lyon was born at Ash¬ 
ford in 1819. He was engaged in the Florida War, the Mexican War (wounded at 
the Belen Gate of Mexico City), and the Kansas Free-State War. In May, 1861, 
while commanding at St. Louis Arsenal, with a handful of Regulars and several 
regiments of loyal Missourians, he captured a large rebel camp and army near the 
city. By rapid movements and hard blows, he saved Missouri to the Union, but 
was at last confronted at Wilson’s Creek by a force 4 times as large as his own, 
composed of disloyal Missourians, Arkansians, and Texans. Disdaining to flee, 
he led his little army again and again to the attack, until he was shot dead while 
heading the foremost files of a charging regiment. He left his fortune (s? 30,006) 
to the government, to aid in putting down the rebellion, and after a solenm 
triumphal transit across the country his body was laid to rest in the village 
churchyard at Eastford. 

The people of Ashford were ultra-orthodox in the old days. One day while 
they were whipping a nonchurch-goer on the public Green, a stranger rode up 
and cried, “Men of Ashford, you serve God as if the Devil was in you. Do you 
think you can whip the grace of God into a man ? Christ will have none but 
volunteers.” Then he spurred away, leaving the little Inquisition of Ashford 
astounded, confused, and ashamed. 

In 1773, Eliplialet Nott, D. D., the distinguished educator, and President of 
Union College (1804-66) for 62 years, was born at Ashford. Galusha A. Grow 
was born at Ashford in 1823. 

Stations, Daysville and Danielsonville, busy villages engaged largely in 
the cotton manufacture (the former turning out 240 miles of fancy cassi- 
meres and 540,000 yards of cotton cloth yearly). These stations are in 
the large town of Killingly, which occupies part of the Indian districts of 
Attawangan and Minnetixit. 

This region is rich in Indian traditions, the most curious of which is attached 
to Mashapaug Lake, % M. N. of Daysville. Far back in the ante-colonial days, the 
Indians were accustomed to hold revels on a hill on the site of this lake. But 
once, after a merry-making four days long, the Great Spirit became offended at 
their riotous orgies, and, as he struck out the foundations of the hill, it sank in 
deep waters, carrying down all the assemblage of the feasters. Of all the tribe 
one woman alone was saved on an island which still stands in the lake. On 
still, clear days, a great submerged forest may be seen under the deepest waters. 
A village of the Narragansetts once gaVe the Nipmucks (who inhabited this dis¬ 
trict) a grand sea-shore feast of clams and fish. The next year they were invited 
into this hill-country to eat venison in the wigwams of the Nipmucks. But a 
quarrel arose during the feast, and the guests from the sea-sliore were massacred. 
The Narragansett tribe took action on the matter, and marched a strong force 
into the Nipmuck country, only to receive a severe defeat at the fords of the 
Quinebaug. 

& M. W. of Daysville is Pomfret, which was settled by Roxbury (Mass.) 
people on the rich lands of Masliamoquet, in the year 1687. In Pomfret is the 
Wolf Den, where the intrepid Putnam descended in the darkness, alone, and killed 
a great wolf which had been the terror of the town. 

S3, of Pomfret and 4. M. W. of Danielsonville is the pretty village of Brook¬ 
lyn (Putnam House). This is the county-seat of Windham Co., and has a re¬ 
fined and cultivated society, while its broad streets are lined with stately trees 
and fine mansions. The Unitarian Church, on the Green, is the only church of 
that sect in the State, and the building is more than a century old. Celia Bur¬ 
leigh is the pastor of this Society. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 19. 119 


Israel Putnam, bom at Salem, Mass., in 1718, settled within the present limits 
of Brooklyn in 1789. From 1755 to 1762, he fought in the French wars, and was 
at the capture of Crown Point, Montreal, and Havana. He then returned to 
Brooklyn and remained there until one day, when he was ploughing on his farm, 
the news of the battle of Lexington came down the country. The plough was 
left in the furrow as the old veteran sprang on his fleetest horse and rode toward 
the scene of battle. He raised a regiment in Windham County ; was made a 
maj.-gen. in the Continental Army ; and was one of the leaders at the fight on 
Breed’s Hill. He commanded at New York, at Princeton, and in the Hudson 
Highlands, until he was forced to retire from active service on account of his age. 
His old farmhouse still stands, and his remains are obscurely buried in a ceme¬ 
tery S. of the village. 

Danielsonville is the seat of extensive factories on the water-power 
furnished by the Quinebaug River. Cotton cloth and shoe-making are 
the principal industries. 

Stages run thrice daily to Brooklyn, and other lines run to Willimantic, S. 
■'Killingly, and Providence (the latter route crosses the State of R. I.). 

Stations, Wauregan (village W. of the station). Quinebaug Pond (3 M. 
long) is a pretty lake, where the “ Narragansetts’ fishing-light ” rises in 
the form of a pillar of fire, at midnight, once in every seven years. Such 
is the old legend, and dwellers in the country-side claim to have seen this 
fiery column blazing over the centre of the pond. The large Wauregan 
Mills (cotton sheetings) are situated in this village. 

Stations, Central Village (with several factories), Plainfield Junction 
(where the line crosses the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. R.), 
Jewett City, and Greeneville. At the two latter places are large factories. 
The Quinebaug River is crossed at Jewett City, and soon after the train 
passes through a rock-tunnel 300 ft. long. At Norwich the cars run on 
the New London Northern Line, and reach the steamboat wharf at New 
London late in the evening. 

After going on board the steamboat, passengers usually retire, and sleep 
while she moves through the quiet waters of Long Island Sound. Arising 
early in the morning, a fine view is obtained of the eastern environs and 
the city of New York. The boats land at Pier 40, North River, and 
from the next pier runs the ferry to Jersey City, which enters there 
the terminal station of the railroads to Philadelphia and Washington, 
the South and West. 

When the section of the track between Willimantic and Middletown is completed, 
the New York and Boston Air Bine will go into operation. From 
Boston to Putnam this line is the same as Route 19, and from New Haven to New 
York it is the same as Route 8. It is much shorter than the other routes, but 
passes through a less interesting country. 


120 Route 20. HAETFOED TO SALISBUEY. 


Boston to Woonsocket. 

Trains leave the Boston and Albany Station. Distance to Woonsocket, 37J M. 
Fare, $1.10. 

The line soon diverges from the Albany track, and passes the stations, Brook¬ 
line, Reservoir, and Chestnut Hill (see Route 2). Newton is then entered, a 
large and picturesque town, abounding in suburban villages. In 1646 the Apostle 
Eliot came to the Indian village of Nonantum, in this vicinity, and after a formal 
reception by the aged chief and the medicine-men, he unfolded to them the tenets 
of Christianity. A large part of the tribe accepted his teachings, formed a church, 
and adopted the laws and customs of the colonists. Near Newton Centre, on 
a far-viewing hill, are the buildings pertaining to a Theological Institution of the 
Baptist denomination. This school is in high reputation, and has grown rapidly 
since its foundation in 1825. The course of study covers three years. 

Stations, Newton Highlands, Upper Falls, Highlandville. Upper Falls is a 
manufacturing village where the track crosses the Charles River. At Charles 
River Station the river is again crossed. The line now passes through the towns 
of Dover, Medfield, Medway, and Bellingham, twice crossing the sinuous valley 
of the Charles. Medfield retains the memory of a fierce attack by a swarm of 
Indians led by King Philip, who “rode an elegant horse.” 50 houses were bumt7 
20 of the villagers killed and many made prisoners, but finally the people got an 
old cannon into position and drove off" the invaders. John Wilson, Jr., a graduate 
of the first Harvard class, was pastor, physician, and schoolmaster of the village 
from 1651 to 1691. The stations beyond Charles River, are Dover, Medfield, E. 
Medway, Medway, W. Medway, Cary’s, N. Bellingham, Bellingham, E. Blackstone, 
and Woonsocket (see Route 10). At Woonsocket a connection is made with the 
Providence and Worcester Railroad. 


20. Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton. 

Via the Connecticut Western R. R. Distance, 62 M. to Salisbury ; 69 M. to 
Millerton. 

After leaving the Union Station at Hartford the line runs N. W. towards 
the high hills which bound the valley of the Conn. Stations, Blue Hills, 
Bloomfield, Scotland, Tariffville (large carpet factories), and Simsbury 
(see Eoute 15). At this point a connection is made with the New Haven 
and Northampton E. E. (Eoute 15). Stations, Stratton Brook, and New 
Hartford. The latter town was formerly of much importance, being a halt¬ 
ing-place on the great western wagon road, from Hartford and S. E. New 
England to Albany and W. New York. At present it is engaged in the 
manufacture of cotton and steel goods. Stations, Winsted (see Eoute 16), 
"VY. Winsted, Norfolk. This is a pretty village (Norfolk House, $10-12 
a week) with mountains on every side. Before the church is a Green, with 
a monument “to the memory of soldiers of this town who died for their 
country in the War of the Eebellion. ” The soil of Norfolk is cold, rugged, 
and stony, and it is written that, of the 50 proprietors who bought 
the town in 1742, after inspection of the tract, 49 forfeited their 
claims and the moneys paid on them. The dairy business at one time 
flourished here, but the town has been failing slowly for years : in the 
month of April, 1872, 75 persons moved away from it. The hotel is a 
large, quiet summer-house in the valley, and from the hills over it are 
obtained views of the Sheffield Mts. through long lowland vistas. The 


SALISBURY. 


Route 20. 121 


most prominent elevation in the vicinity is the massive Haystack Mt. 
(footpath to the summit), from which a very extensive prospect is enjoyed, 
stretching from Mt. Everett in Mass, to the Mts. of New York. About 
5 M. from the village are Camel’s Falls, which are attractive after heavy 
rains. The line now follows the valley of the Blackberry River to its 
junction with the Ilousatonic, crossing at Canaan Station the Ilousatonic 
Railroad (Route 17) and River. After passing the stations, Twin Lakes, 
Chapinville, Salisbury, Lakeville, Ore Hill, and State Line, all in the town 
of Salisbury, the line enters the State of New York, and at Millerton 
connects with the Harlem, the Dutchess and Columbia, and the Pough¬ 
keepsie and Eastern Railroads. 


Salisbury. 

“ 0, this silence in the air, this silence on the mountains, this silence on the 

lakes.On either side, to the E. and to the W., ever-varying mountain- 

forms frame the horizon. There is a constant succession of hills swelling into 
mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills. The hues of green in 
trees, in grasses, and in various harvests are endlessly contrasted. At Salisbury 
you come under the shadow of the Taconic Range. Hero, you may well spend a 
week, for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosity. 4 M. to the E. are 
the Falls of the Ilousatonic, called Canaan Falls, very beautiful, and worthy of 
much longer study than they usually get. Prospect Hill, not far from Falls Vil¬ 
lage, affords altogether the most beautiful view of any of the many peaks with 
which this neighborhood abounds." (This, and the other quotations under Salis¬ 
bury, are from Beecher’s Star Papers). 

Hotels, Barnard House, $2.00 per day ; Miller’s Hotel, at Lakeville ; and a large 
summer boarding-house next to St. John’s Church (Epis.) in Salisbury village. 

The road to Falls Village leads for 2 M. down a narrow valley rich in 
grain, and then to the E. over bold spurs of Wolonanchu Mt. with Pros¬ 
pect Mt. on the 1., and rapidly changing views of the Ilousatonic Valley. 
Or, without crossing Wolonanchu, the road down the valley may be fol¬ 
lowed to the hamlet of Lime Rock and the borders of the Mts. of Sharon. 

A favorite excursion is to the Bald Peak on Mt. Riga. From Salisbury 
to the Mountain Pond on Riga it is 4 M. of easy ascent, most of the way 
along the edge of a ravine filled with resounding, but invisible, cascades. 
A road leads along the plateau to the base of Bald Peak, whence the as¬ 
cent must be made by a rude path. The view from the summit is very 
extensive, embracing on the W. the Oblong, Buck, and Catskill Mts. in 
N. Y., on the S. the wilderness of high hills which form Sharon, on the 
E. Canaan Mt., Rarack Matiff, and the lakes of Salisbury, and on the N. 
Race, Alander, and Everett Mts. in Mass. From the little cluster of 
houses near the pond on Mt. Riga, one can return to Salisbury, via Lake¬ 
ville, by a road over the brow of the hill, or by a slightly longer road 
(8 M.) leading down the side of a water-course with pretty views of the 
lakes, to Ore Hill (4 M.), the centre of the iron-mining industries of the 
town. There are 5 iron-mines in Salisbury, employing 240 men, and sup¬ 
plying metal to the forges, anchor-works, and foundries which abound on 
6 



122 Route W. 


SALISBURY. 


the streams of N. W. Conn. In April, 1861, the miners of Salisbury 
sent 100 tons of iron to the government, to be made into cannon-balls. 
From Ore Hill (which is within 1^ M. of the New York line) the road lies 
near the railway track, and passes to Lakeville, 2| M. from the mines. 
As the road passes the lakes Wononkapok and Wononscapamuc, pleasant 
views are obtained, and the mts. on the S. rise clearly above their quiet 
waters. Between the road and the latter lake is seen the stately old man¬ 
sion of the Holley family, built by the Governor of that name, and the 
birthplace of Horace Holley, the Unitarian divine, long President of 
Transylvania University, and of 0. L. Holley, the N. Y. lawyer and 
journalist. On the shores of 'the same lake are seen the large white 
buildings of the State Hospital for the Imbecile, where, by skilful treat¬ 
ment, the thought-germs in stricken minds are developed into action, use¬ 
ful instruction is imparted, and many heretofore useless persons are 
elevated, and sent forth as self-sustaining members of society. The Hos¬ 
pital accommodates about 50 patients, and is situated on a hill which 
commands fine views of the lake and of Indian Mt. After leaving these 
charming lakes, a ride of 1^ M. brings one to Salisbury. Mr. Beecher 
suggests that after leaving Bald Peak, the road may be taken to Brace 
Mt. and the Dome, “thence to that grand ravine and its wild water, 
Bash-Bish, —a ride, in all, of about 18 M., and wholly along the moun¬ 
tain-bowl.” 

* Bash-Bish Falls are about 12 M. from Salisbury village, and near 
Copake station on the Harlem R. R. This is a beautiful little waterfall, 
which has been well painted by Kensett, and was much visited before the 
destruction of the hotel by fire. 

4 M. N. of Salisbury is * “ Sage’s Ravine, which is the antithesis of 
Bash-Bish. Sage’s Ravine, not without grandeur, has its principal at¬ 
tractions in its beauty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet 
most remarkable for grandeur. Both are solitary, rugged, full of rocks, 
cascades, grand waterfalls, and a savage rudeness tempered to beauty and 
softness by various and abundant mosses, lichens, flowers, and vines. I 
would willingly make the journey once a month from New York to see 
either of them. Just beyond Sage’s Ravine, very beautiful falls may be 
seen after heavy rains, which have been named Norton’s Falls.” The 
way to the ravine leads along the under-mountain road (4 M.). Just 
before reaching a blacksmith’s shop at the bridge over a rill from the hills, 
there is a small hut on the 1., and the field-road turns in alongside, by tak¬ 
ing down bars. It is best to leave horses outside, and, entering the field, 
take the first path to the r. and follow the stream up the ravine. The 
principal falls are know as the Lower, Twin, and Upper Falls (well rep¬ 
resented in a series of 12 stereographs). A vague path follows up the 
1. side of the water (r. bank), “ which, if you love solitude, wildness, and 


SALISBURY. 


Route 20. 123 


beauty, will be worth all the pains you may take to climb through it. 
One requires a good foot, a strong hand, and a clear head, and then there 
is but little danger,” though the path is soon lost in a perfect chaos of 
rocks. Heavy gloves and boots are necessary, and the ascent is not rec¬ 
ommended for ladies, although several have accomplished it. An obscure 
mountain road leads to the vicinity of the upper end of the ravine, but 
the descent is harder than the ascent. 

From Salisbury, by Sage’s Ravine, N. into Massachusetts, runs the 
under-mountain road, along the foot of the Taconic Range, to Sheffield and 
the Berkshire Hills. From the ravine to Salisbury, visitors sometimes 
return by way of the Twin Lakes, a longer but pleasanter route. 

The * Twin Lakes are gained from Salisbury by a road passing along 
the low spurs of Rarack Matiff Mt., with the isolated mass of Lion’s Head 
on the W. The beautiful lakes of Washining and Washinee are soon 
reached, and the high hills in the vicinity (Tom’s Mt., Boar Mt.) are seen 
mirrored in them. Near the S. shore of Washinee a road diverges to the 
1. through the thick pines, to a remarkable cave. This was but lately 
discovered by a hunting dog chasing a small animal into it, and the 
hunters, uneasy at his long absence, tore away the debris from the hole 
and entered. At a hut near the cave, where the keys are kept, visitors 
can get appropriate clothing, lights, and refreshments. The main cavern 
has been explored for about 700 ft., and its course trends steadily down¬ 
ward. The curious forms assumed by stalagmites are well shown here. 
In one place a stone lady is seen, facing the wall; in another, vast num¬ 
bers of stalactitic candles depend from the roof; and numerous other 
marvels are found by imaginative visitors. The village and station of 
Chapinsville is situated near the lakes. Mr. Beecher speaks of the lake 
rides as “extremely beautiful. But they should always be afternoon 
rides ; for these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full charms 
except at about an hour before sunset.” 

Rides are taken from Salisbury through the romantic hills of Cornwall 
and Sharon, and even as far as Great Barrington (N.), and Litchfield 
(S. E.). 

Salisbury was first settled by the Dutch in 1720, who lived in peace with the 
Indian tribe who held the valley and of whom no relic remains save the quaint 
names which they gave to lakes and Mts. This was the farthest advance of the 
timid Hollanders on that Alpine land (the j>resent Mass., Conn., and Vt.), which 
was portrayed on their maps by a blank white space (as Greenland is on our maps), 
inscribed with the cool word “ Winterberg.” The word “ Housatonic ” has given 
rise to more controversy among antiquarians and philologists than almost any other 
Indian word, and one good authority removes it from an aboriginal derivation, 
and claims that it is a euphonic change of “Westenholt” (Western corner or 
nook), the name given to the Dutch settlement here as being in a western nook of 
the rugged hills which stretch away E. toward the Conn. River. But in 1740 the 
restless Anglo-American wave of advance reached this point. There are no Dutch 
or Indians there now. 




124 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


21. Boston to New York. 

The great Express route, via Springfield and Hartford. There are three through* 
express trains daily in 8-9 hours. Distance, 236 M. ; fare, $6.00. This is the 
most popular and pleasant of the railway routes to New York, passing through 
the large cities of Worcester, Springfield, and Hartford, and following the rich 
valley of the Connecticut for a great distance. Elegant parlor and sleeping cars 
are attached to all through trains. By leaving Boston at 9 in the morning, one 
can pass over this route by daylight; while by leaving at 9 o’clock, P. M., one 
sleeps all night ($2.00 for a berth in the sleeping-car) and reaches New York at 
5.30 o’clock in the morning. 

The train leaves the terminal depot in Boston (comer of Beech and 
Lincoln Sts., PI. 35.), and passes out over the Back Bay lands. Charles 
River is approached on the r., and a fine view is given of the compact and 
more ancient parts of Boston, crowned by the State House dome. Beyond 
the city, and apparently at the end of the lake-like widenings of the river, 
the populous heights of Charlestown are seen, while Cambridge lifts her 
spires on the nearer western shores. The line crosses the town of Brook¬ 
line, studded Avith pretty suburban villages, and stops at Brighton (Cattle 
Fair Hotel), celebrated for its great cattle-market. The stock-trains on 
this railroad bring immense numbers of cattle, sheep, and swine from 
the West, which are here made into beef, mutton, and pork, for the daily 
needs of Boston. The sheds, yards, and pens cover many acres, and the 
business has been increasing for scores of years. As far back as 1837, the 
yearly sales were $ 2,500,000. N. of the station is seen the tower on Mt. 
Auburn, and the U. S. Arsenal at Watertown, on the other bank of the 
Charles. Newton is next entered, a wealthy suburban toAvn (valuation, 

$ 18,000,000), with a population of 13,000. Newton Corner is near the 
ancient Nonantum Hill, where the Apostle Eliot first preached to the 
Indians (probably the present Mt. Ida, from which a pleasant view is 
obtained). This village has a public library in an elegant and costly stone 
building, and three or four churches. From this point to Waltham it is 
3-4 M., to the Watertown Arsenal and Mt. Auburn, 2-3 M., and to the 
Baptist Theological Seminary at Newton Centre, 2-3 M. S. The line 
now passes Newtonville (11? M. N. of Grove Hill Cemetery), W. Newton 
(2 M. S. of the Watch Factory at Waltham), and Auburndale (the seat of 
the Laselle Female Seminary). These villages are all in the town of 
Newton. From Riverside Station, a branch track runs S. to the manu¬ 
factories at Newton Upper Falls. Stations, Grantville (a factory and 
residence village), and Wellesley, a picturesque suburban village, near the 
art-embellished shores of Lake Wauban.' 2 M. beyond Wellesley the 
train reaches 

Natick (Summer St. House), “ the place of hills,” a large toAvn near 
the river Charles, engaged in the manufacture of shoes. A large hat-fac¬ 
tory is located here, also a base-ball manufactory, where many women 
are employed. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 125 


In 1651 the Christian tribe of Nonantum, which had embraced the faith after 
the preaching of Eliot, removed to Natick, where they formed a government 
based on the 18th chapter of Exodus, with rulers of hundreds, of fifties, and of 
j tens. Their village consisted of three streets lined with gardens and huts, a 
building for a church and school, a large, circular fort, and a bridge over the river. 
The Bible was translated into theil language by Eliot, and published at Cam¬ 
bridge in .1663 (second edition in 1685), whose title-page read as follows: 
“Mamusse Wunneetupanatamwe Up Bidlum God Naneeswe Nukkone Testament 
: Kali Work Wusku Testament.” But despite the tender care of the colony, the 
Indian church and tribe suffered the usual fate of inferior races in the presence of 
Anglo-Americans, and died out from the operation of internal causes. In trans¬ 
lating the passage, “ And the mother of Sisera looked out at the window, and cried 
! through the lattice,” in searching for an Indian equivalent for the word “lattice,” 
i after much labor Eliot found a barbaric phrase which was printed for it in his 
! Bible. Many years after, he found that his word for “ lattice ” meant “ eel-pot,” 
and the ludicrous change in the text excited much merriment in Cambridge. 

Just N. of Natick, across the track, and visible from the train soon 
after leaving the station, is Cochituate Lake, from which the water supply 
of Boston is carried to that city by a long and sinuous aqueduct. 

Station, S. Framingham (restaurant in the station), near which is 
Harmony Grove, and the camp-ground of the 52 Methodist churches of 
the Boston circuit. 

S. Framingham is the centre of a system of divergent railroads. 

A branch of the Boston and Albany track runs S. 12 M. through the farming 
town, Holliston, to Milford, a town of 10,000 inhabitants. Stages run from Milford 
to Mendon (celebrated for its apples), Uxbridge, and Upton. 

The Boston, Clinton, and Fitchburg R. R. brings its various divisions to a 
centre at this point. The Mansfield and Framingham Division runs hence IS M. 
S. E., passing the stations, Sherborn, Medfield Junction (connecting with Woon- 
socket Division of the B., H., and Erie R. R.), Medfield, Walpole (connecting 
with the N. Y. and N. E. R. R.), S. Walpole, Foxboro’, and Mansfield. At the 
latter station connections are made with the Boston and Providence Railroad, and 
with the Taunton Branch Railroad. 

The Lowell Division runs from S. Framingham to Lowell, 28 M. N. Stations, 
Framingham and Sudbury. Sudbury was settled in 1638, and in 1676 Avas 
; the scene of a bloody contest, when 70 men, marching to relieve Marlboro’, 
were ambushed here by Indians. 26 of the colonists were killed on the field, 
and the remainder were captured, and many of them were put to death by ter¬ 
rible tortures. A monument to their memory Avas erected on the field, by President 
Wadsworth, of Harvard College, whose father was c&ptain of the defeated party. 

In Sudbury Avas a famous old tavern in the colonial days, which, during the 
march of the western counties’ militia on Boston, was a busy place. This is the 
“ Wayside Inn ” of Longfellow’s poems, the purer, fairer Canterbury Tales of 
American literature: — 

“ As ancient is this hostelry 
As any in the land may be, 

Built in the old Colonial day, 

When men lived in a grander way, 

With ampler hospitality. 

A region of repose it seems, 

A place of slumber and of dreams, 

Remote among the wooded hills.” 

The characters represented among the story-tellers “around the fireside at 
; their ease” were as follows : The Landlord, “grave in his aspect and attire,” was 
Squire Lyman Howe, of Sudbury. The 

• “ Student of old books and ways. 

With tales of Flores and Blanchelleur 
Sir Ferumbras, Sir Eglamour,” 

was young Henry Wales. The young Sicilian, 








126 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


“ In sight of Etna bred and born,” 

was Luigi Monti, American consul at Palermo. The “Theologian, from the 
school of Cambridge on the Charles,” was Prof. Treadwell, of Harvard. The 
Poet was T. W. Parsons, of Boston, translator of Dante’s “Inferno,” and author 
of many short poems. The “ blue-eyed Norseman,” who bore the Stradivarius 
violin, “ a miracle of the lutist’s art,” and sang the Saga of King Olaf, was Ole 
Bull. 

Beyond Sudbury is W. Concord, where the Fitchburg Railroad crosses the 
present route. Station, Acton (Monument House), whence marched a company 
of minute-men, who were among the first engaged at the battle of Concord. Their 
captain was killed at the fight by the bridge. The line crosses the towns of Car¬ 
lisle and Chelmsford, and stops at Lowell. 

Another division of this railroad runs from S. Framingham to Fitchburg. Sta¬ 
tion, Framingham Centre, built around a level Green, in a large farming town. 
The great tide of travel between Boston and the West formerly passed through 
this village, which then had a famous inn. The town hall, old church, and 
Academy (founded 1792) front on the Green. The line now passes across the 
farming town of Soutliboro’, and enters fair and fertile Marlboro’. This was the 
site of the Christian Indian village of Okommakamesitt, and was colonized by 
Sudbury people in 1655. Its first pastor (1666-1701) “ uniformly refused baptism 
to children born on the Sabbath.” At Marlboro’ the present route connects with 
a branch of the Fitchburg Railroad. Northboro’ is the next town, and is devoted 
to farming and cattle-raising. The village churchyard contains the grave of the 
Rabbi Judah Monis, who renounced Judaism in favor of Christianity in 1722, and 
became teacher of Hebrew at Harvard College, where he remained till his death 
in 1761. The train crosses the Assabet River B. of the station, and then passes 
on through the town of Berlin to Clinton (Clinton House), a busy village at the 
junction of the Worcester and Nashua Railroad. At Pratt’s Junction the Fitch¬ 
burg and Worcester Railroad is crossed, and the train runs across Leominster, 
with occasional views of Wachusett Mountain on the W. The central village of 
Leominster is finely situated. Soon after leaving this station the train reaches 
Fitchburg. 

From S. Framingham 'the main line follows the Sudbury River, which 
it often approaches and once or twice crosses. Stations, Aslilaud (Cen¬ 
tral House), Cordaville, Southville, and Westboro’ (Westboro’ Hotel). 
This is the seat of the State Reform School and a large water-cure estab¬ 
lishment. 3g M. S. E. of the station are the Hopkinton Springs (small 
hotel) near the large and handsome Whitehall Pond, abounding in fish. 
There are three springs, all different, and carbonate of lime and iron are 
the chief ingredients. This was formerly a fashionable resort, and is on 
the old Indian domain of Maguncook. 

Station, Grafton (the Indian Hassanamesit), with 3 small hotels, on a 
reservation of 4 M. square, given by the colony to a tribe of Christian 
Indians. Shrewsbury is a town just N. of the track, where was bom 
Artemas Ward, major of the 8th Mass. Reg. at the siege of Louisbourg 
(1758), and commander of the army besieging Boston until the arrival of 
Washington. Levi Pease was born here, who started the first line of 
mail stages between Boston and New York (1784), previous to which a 
fortnightly mail was borne between the two places, and contained in 
a pair of saddle-bags. 4 

Station, Millbury (near New England Village), whence a short branch 
track runs (3 M.) to Millbury village. The line now turns to the N. and 
runs above and near Quinsigainond Pond, a pretty lake, 4 M. long, nar- 




BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 127 


row and deep, with 12 islands in it. The college boat-races have often 
taken place on this pond. Shrewsbury’s spires are seen afar, over its 
waters. 

Worcester. 

Hotels. * Bay-State House, $ 3.50, comer Main and Exchange ; Waldo House, 
$2.50, Waldo St., near the station ; European House ; Exchange Hotel. 

Reading-Rooms. At the Free Library, Elm St., near Main; Y. M. C. As¬ 
sociation, Pearl St. 

Horse-Cars on Main St., from Webster Park to Harrington Avenue. 

Stages to Quinsigamond, S. Worcester, Oakham, Shrewsbury, and Marlboro’, 
Leicester and Spencer, Webster and Oxford, Paxton, Coldbrook and Barre, 

Railroads, to Providence (Route 10), Norwich, Nashua (Route 13), Albany 
(Route 22), Barre and Gardiner, Fitchburg, and Boston. 

Worcester, the second city in wealth and population in the Common¬ 
wealth, and the capital of Worcester County, is situated among a group 
of hills on the Blackstone River. Its manufacturing interests have risen 
rapidly to a commanding position, being favored by the central location 
of the city, and the large railroad system converging there. The popula¬ 
tion is over 50,000. There are 29 churches, 9 temperance societies, 11 
bodies of Masons, 3 of Odd Fellows, and 3 societies of Irish, 3 of Ger¬ 
mans, and 1 of Scotchmen. 

Worcester claims the name of an academic city, in virtue of its numer¬ 
ous fine schools. Its Classical and English High School employs 4 mas¬ 
ters and 5 assistants, and has a noble building, which is surmounted by a 
graceful tower terminating in a spire. This tower is a copy of one of 
the best European campaniles, but is unfortunately too slender in com¬ 
parison with the heavy mass of the building. Near Main St. on the S. 
is the celebrated Oread Seminary for young ladies, in picturesque stone 
buildings located on a hill and surrounded by trees. The castle-like 
structure, with embattled towers, on a commanding hill S. E. of the city 
was built for a Medical School, but is now used as an academy under the 
care of the Baptist Church. The Roman Catholic College of the Holy 
Cross occupies an extensive range of imposing buildings on Packachoag 
Hill, 2 M. S. of the city, and is well attended by the youth of that church 
from all parts of New England. A State Normal School occupies a hill 
E. of Lincoln Square, and across the valley to the W. are the buildings 

I of the Free Industrial School (90 students), with lectures, laboratories, 
machine-shops, and all appliances for learning young men to be practical 
architects, carpenters, engineers, chemists, civil engineers, &c. “ The 

ultimate end of this institution is the elevation of the mechanic by giv¬ 
ing him thorough and complete scientific knowledge on which he may 
base his future work.” The school is richly endowed, and is free to 
young men of this county (others pay $ 100 a year). Boynton Hall (named 
in honor of the founder of the school) is a graceful and ornate stone build¬ 
ing. H M. N. of Worcester is the Highland Military School, widely 
known for the stringent thoroughness of its discipline. 



128 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


A State Lunatic Asylum (on the family plan) is located near the city. 
It accommodates 350 - 400 patients, and is about to move to a pleasant 
estate near Lake Quinsigamond. It now occupies several buildings form¬ 
ing a quadrangle, on a hill E. of the city. . 

Hope Cemetery in New Worcester, and Rural Cemetery on Grove St., 
are attractive burying-grounds. 2 M. E. is Quinsigamond Lake, a long, 
deep, narrow sheet of water, on which the college boat-races often take 
place. 

Main St. is about 2 M. long, and contains the principal business houses 
and hotels. It is a wide, pleasant street, well lined with trees, and 
adorned with some fine commercial buildings. Near its lower end is the 
Oread Seminary, and the Jesuit College is seen across a broad valley. 
Central Park (the Common) is E. of Main St. and contains"the Old South 
Church and the Bigelow Monument, while four other churches are seen 
on its sides. Passing N. on Mam St. many fine business blocks are seen, 
with St. Paul’s Catholic Church, Trinity M. E. Church, the towers of 
the High School, and numerous tall spires on the hills to the 1. On the 
r. is Mechanics’ Hall, a fine audience-chamber seating 2,500, with a 
brown-stone front in rich Corinthian architecture. On side-streets diverg¬ 
ing to the 1. in this vicinity are the Post Office and the reading-room of 
tlie Y. M. C. A. (Pearl St.), and the Free Library (Elm St.). The latter 
contains 32,000 volumes, being especially rich in mechanics and medical 
works, while its reading-room (open from 9 A. M. until 9 P. M.) has 170 
different magazines and papers, in 4 languages. On Foster St. are the 
rooms of the Natural History Society with valuable cabinets (open 
Wednesday afternoons). On Main St. beyond Mechanics’ Hall and the 
Bay State House, is the old Exchange Hotel, a famous inn of the colonial 
days, where Washington and Lafayette have stopped. Just beyond is 
Lincoln Square, where, on a high terrace, are seen the Congregational 
Church, the granite Court House with its classic front, and the neat 
building (in the Italian architecture) of the * American Antiquarian 
Society. 

In the latter structure is preserved a valuable library of 50,000 volumes, with 
ancient portraits of Samuel, Increase, and Cotton Mather and other Puritan 
divines ; Governors Winthrop, Endicott, and other founders of the State. Many 
busts adorn the walls, and there are large casts of Michael Angelo’s Moses, and 
Christ (bought in Rome by Hon. Stephen Salisbury). In glass cases about the 
hall are several literary curiosities, ancient black-letter MSS on vellum (15th 
century); an elegant Persian MS. richly illuminated (date, 1480); 3 British tax- 
stamps of 1763 ; MS. sermons of microscopic fineness written by old Puritan 
pastors ; Latin books printed at Rome and Venice in 1475-6; Cranmer’s Bible 
(1538) ; Ptolemy’s Geography; missals on vellum ; and a superb * Koran in Arabic, 
brdhantly illuminated. Two cases of Indian relics are near the entrance to the 
hall. This collection is open, 9-12, and 2-5 o’clock daily, except Saturday and 
Sunday. From the hill behind the building, the Free Industrial School and the 
Normal School may be seen. 

On the Common, near the Old South Church, is a pretty English Gothic 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 129 


monument, built of granite and Tuscan marble, over the remains of 
Timothy Bigelow, Colonel of the 15th Mass. Continental Reg. Near this 
will be raised (late in 1873) the * Soldiers’ Monument, whose bronzes are 
now cast in Munich. Colossal figures in the uniform of the American 
infantry, cavalry, artillery, and marine services will surround a tall Co¬ 
rinthian column, surmounted by a statue of Victory, standing on a globe, 
with a drawn sword in her uplifted hand. “The expression of her 
beautiful face is full of exultancy and pride. In spite of her colossal size, 
she hardly seems to rest on the ball. But with such powerful wings, and 
such an innate consciousness of strength, the air itself would be a suf¬ 
ficient support.” 

The Boston and Albany Railroad are at work here on an elegant new station (on 
Washington Square), to be 514 ft. long and 256 ft. wide, with an Italian clock- 
tower 200 ft. high, all in heavy granite masonry. 

In 1669 a legislative committee located a settlement for 30 families at Worces¬ 
ter (Saxon, Wegera, Ceaster, War-Castle), as a half-way halting-place between the 
valley-towns and the coast. The citadel of this colony was near tli© present 
corner of Main and Columbia Streets. The Indians soon forced the evacuation 
of the settlement, and it lay desolate from 1702 to 1713, when it was reoccupied, 
and stern defensive laws were passed. A fortress-like church was built (on the 
Common), and each man was ordered to carry to Sunday services his musket and 
6 rounds of ammunition. Iu 1720 some Scotch Presbyterian immigrants built a 
church of their own, which was assaulted and torn down by the Puritan colonists 
as a cradle of heresy. In 1755 numerous exiled Acadians were sent here, and soon 
after the “ Massachusetts Spy ” newspaper (still published there) began to fan the 
flames of revolution. April 19, 1775, a breathless messenger bore into town, 
the news of the battle of Lexington. His white horse, flecked with blood and 
foam, fell dead on Main St., but he rode westward on another, while the miimte- 
men moved on Boston by thousands. In July, 1776, the Sons of Freedom had a 
grand feast, and among their toasts were, " May the freedom and independence 
of America endure till the sun grows dim with age, and this earth returns to 
chaos.” “ Perpetual itching without the benefit of scratching, to the enemies of 
America.” The town sent 27 officers and 409 men to the army. In 1786, Worcester 
was taken, and its courts elosed by 800 of Shays’ insurgents, wearing the emble¬ 
matic pine-branch. Father Fitton, on a missionary tour in 1834, found four 
Catholic families in Worcester: that denomination now has four churches in the 
city, including Notre Dame des Canadiens. The population in 1830 was 4,082. In 
1861, at the very hour when the 6th Mass, was fighting in the streets of Baltimore, 
the Bigelow Monument was dedicated here. Said Judge Thomas at the dedica¬ 
tion, “ The cry to-day in the streets of this beautiful city is that which 86 years 

ago startled the quiet village, ‘ To arms ! ’ So be it, to arms !.It will cost 

us a long, severe, and bitter struggle, but this rebellion must be crushed out. 
There is for us no hope of freedom, of peace, of safety even, till this work is fully 
done. Seven years of war were spent in the purchase of our freedom ; seven more 
of toil in giving it organic life. If seven years of toil and blood are spent in 
securing it, in our national redemption, they will be wisely, divinely spent, 
with the blessing of God and all coming generations of men.” Within five months 
5,000 men marched from the Park to the Potomac. The 15th Mass. (Worcester Co.) 
Reg. paraded here before leaving, and received their colors from the ladies. “ I 
am deputed by the ladies of Worcester to present to you this banner. Eighty- 
four years ago to-day there was mustering in these streets the first regiment ever 
raised in Worcester Co. for actual warfare, the 15th Reg. of the Mass. Line. What 
hard-fought fields at Monmouth and Trenton, what sufferings at Valley Forge, 
what glory and victory at Saratoga and Yorktown, have made that name famous 1 
. . . What they won for us, it is yours to preserve for us.” — J udge Hoar. 

Stations, Rochdale (Union Hotel), 4 M. S. of the village of Leicester, 
6 i 



130 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


on Strawberry Hill, the Indian Towtaid ; Charlton, and Spencer, 2 M. S. 
of the village (Spencer Hotel), which is on a plateau 950 ft. above the sea. 
It has a venerable look now, though De Warville (1788) spoke of it as “ a 
new village in the midst of woods.” 

Elias Howe, Jr., was born at Spencer in 1818. After working in a Lowell cot¬ 
ton-factory and a Boston machine-shop, he wrought out his great idea of a sewing- 
machine (patented 1846). The idea did not become popular, and he was forced to 
support himself as a railroad engineer until penury and harsh labor broke his 
health. After a time, capitalists took up his invention, and by their help, after 
long litigation, he proved his prior right to the patent against several competitors 
(1854). Between 1854 and his death in 1867, he realized $ 2,000,000 from his sew¬ 
ing-machines. 

The line now enters the valley of the Chicopee, passes E. Brookfield 
(Wesbakim), and stops at Brookfield (Brookfield Hotel). 

This town was settled on the Indian lands of Quaboag, by Ipswich men, in 
1660. In 1675 a large force of Nipmucks advanced on the place. Envoys were 
sent out to treat with the Indians, but six of them were killed, and the village 
(the present W. Brookfield) was attacked. The inhabitants had gathered in a 
garrison-house, which, after the rest of the village had been plundered and burnt, 
was attacked by the enemy. For three long days the house was defended with 
desperate bravery, though shot and flaming arrows were showered against it. 
Then a cart full of blazing flax and straw was pushed against it, and the defence 
would have been ended, but for a sudden shower which extinguished the rising 
flames. After this shower, which they held to be miraculous, a brave partisan 
officer with a troop of light horse galloped in from Lancaster, after a forced 
march of 30 M., and scattered the besiegers. In 1676, the evacuation of the 
town was ordered, as a military necessity, by the Legislature, and it remained 
desolate for 12 years. The Quaboag Pond is a large pond S. of the village, whose 
waters flow by the Sashaway River through the Podunk Meadows, to the Chico¬ 
pee. 

Station, W. Brookfield, near the village of heroic memory (Wickaboag 
House). These various hamlets of Brookfield are now chiefly noted for 
their extensive shoe-manufactures. 

Stations, Warren (Warren Hotel), a prettily placed village, near which 
Is the old Quaboag Seminary; W. Warren, Brimfield. 

In the Brimfield churchyard (5 - 6 M. to the S. E.) is buried Gen. William 
Eaton, some time an officer in the U. S. Army, and then Consul to Tunis. In 
1805 he planned the restoration of Hamet, the rightful Bashaw of Tripoli, and 
marched from Cairo, Egypt, with 400 Moslems and 100 Christians, across the 
desert. With reckless bravery he stormed the ramparts of the Tripolitan city of 
Derne, garrisoned by a force larger than his own. The United States having con¬ 
cluded a peace with the reigning Bashaw, Eaton was forced to abandon his 
conquest, and he returned to America, where he died (at Brimfield) in 1811. 

Station, Palmer (American House, Nassawanno House), in a flourish¬ 
ing manufacturing town. The State Almshouse in Monson may be seen 
to the S. across the Chicopee River. 

From this point diverge the Athol and Enfield and the Ware River 
Railroads, while the New London Northern Line crosses the track here. 

Stations, Wilbraham (with the flourishing Wesleyan Academy 3 M. S.) 
and Indian Orchard (horse-cars to the village). 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 131 


Springfield. 

Hotels. * Massasoit House (said to set the best table in New England), di¬ 
rectly alongside of the station, $ 4 a day; * Haynes’s Hotel, a large first-class 
house on Main, near Pynchon St. ; Cooley’s Hotel, on Main St., near and N. of 
the station ; Pynchon House. 

Reading-rooms, at the City Library on State St., and the Y. M. C. Associ¬ 
ation, on Main St. 

Horse-cars run on Main St. and to the Armory and Water Shops. 

Railroads leave the central station for New York (135 M.), Boston (98 M ), 
Albany (104 M.), and the North. 

Springfield was settled by a company under William Pynchon, in 1638, whose 
compact began as follows : “Article I. Wee intend, by God’s grace, as soon as 
wee can, with all convenient speede, to procure some godly and faithfull minister, 
with whome wee propose to joyne in church covenant to walk in all the ways of 
Christ. Article II. Wee intend that our town shall be composed of fourty family’s, 
or if wee think meete after to change our purpose ; yet not to exceed the number 
of fifty family’s, rich and poore.” The town would have been abandoned at one 
time but for the orders of the Legislature, forbidding the evacuation of Mass, 
settlements, whereupon the people erected a strong palisade. Great suffering 
was experienced during the first winter, for the freezing of the river prevented 
vessels ascending with supplies. Several persons started for Boston, and were 
frozen on the way. Pynchon, the magistrate of Springfield, wrote an anti-Calvin- 
istic theological book in 1650, which was condemned by the Legislature and burnt 
on Boston Common. He was deposed from his office, was forced, amid a storm 
of clerical wrath, to retract, and soon returned to England to escape persecution. 
In 1675, while the train-bands of Springfield were guarding Hadley, the Indians 
laid a plot to destroy the place. Their plan was exposed by a friendly Indian 
at Windsor, whence a rider was despatched, who reached Springfield at dead of 
night, and aroused the people. Just as they had gained the shelter of three gar¬ 
rison-houses, 690 Indians entered the streets and burnt every other house in town. 
They successfully disputed the passage of the river against Major Treat’s com¬ 
mand, and only retired at the approach of Major Pynchon and 200 men from Had¬ 
ley, leaving behind them a sad scene of ruin and destruction. During the Revo¬ 
lution works for repairing muskets were established here, and also a cannon- 
foundry, at which were cast the guns of several of the batteries which were en¬ 
gaged in the battles near Saratoga. Jan. 25, 1787, 1,200 of Shays’ rebels attacked 
the Arsenal, which was defended by 1,100 militia men. A few cannon-shot dis¬ 
persed the assailants. During the present century Springfield has grown rapidly, 
by reason of the establishment here of the U. S. Armory and numerous other 
manufactures, and by the convergence, at this point, of important railway systems. 

Springfield is a handsome city of about 28,000 inhabitants, situated on 
the E. bank of the Connecticut River. Its principal thoroughfare is Main 
St., a wide and level street, 3 M. long, adorned with many fine commer¬ 
cial buildings. The principal object of interest in the city is the 
* United States Armory, which is established on a park of 72 acres on 
Arsenal Hill (E. of the station, and best reached byway of State St.). 
The buildings surround a great quadrangle called Union Square, and have 
5-700 men constantly engaged. 1,000 each of the Sharp, Remington, and 
Springfield breech-loading rifies have lately been issued to the army for 
test, while the manufacture and alteration of rifles and carbines is con¬ 
stantly going on. During the War of the Rebellion the works were run 
night and day for four years, and at one time over 3,000 men were em¬ 
ployed. Nearly 800,000 guns were made during that time, at an expense 
of $12,000,000. The Arsenal is a large building on the W. of the quad¬ 
rangle, in which 175,000 stand of arms are stored, rivalling in their sym¬ 
metrical arrangement the similar collection in the Tower of London. 









132 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


“ This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceiling, 

Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms 5 

But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing 
Startles the villages with strange alarms. 

Ah! what a sound will rise — how wild and dreary — 

When the death-angel touches those swift keys! 

"VVhat loud lament and dismal Miserere 
"Will mingle with their awful symphonies ! ” 

Longfellow. 

From the tower of the Arsenal is gained a fine view of the city and its 
environs. Passes for a survey of the shops, &c., may be obtained at the 
Armory office. The eight-hour system is in force in these works, although 
much of the work is paid for by the piece. 1 M. S. E. of the Armory are 
the Water-Shops, where the heavier labor is done, and where the gun- 
barrels are made and tested. 

Near the Armory, on the S. E., is the large and beautiful Springfield 
Cemetery, covering about 40 acres. Near this, on the S., is Crescent 
Hill, with two elegant villas and an extensive and pleasing view. 

On State St., between Main St. and the Armory grounds, are several fine 
buildings. The * Church of the Unity (on the r.) is one of the noblest 
ecclesiastical structures in the State, and, with its cloistered portico, broad 
windows, and lofty detached tower and spire, it forms a strikingly beau¬ 
tiful object. It architecture is Gothic, and .its material is brown stone. 
Just above the'church is the unique and graceful building of the High 
School, and opposite the church is the * City Free Library, with its 
handsome building. A library of 32,000 volumes is contained in a richly 
ornamented and well-arranged hall, while on the floor below is a Museum 
(open Wednesday and Saturday, 2-5 P. M.) containing 900 stuffed birds, 
120 stuffed quadrupeds, and several thousand specimens of fossils, fish, 
reptiles, and minerals. There are also cabinets of Indian antiquities, and 
several captured Confederate flags. Just above the Library is Jke Roman 
Catholic Cathedral of St. Michael. Court Square is near the centre of 
the city, and has on one side the City Hall, containing a hall which can 
contain 3,000 persons. S. of Court Square is the * Court House of 
Hampden County, a massive new structure of granite, costing $ 200,000. 
It has a tall tower, balconies, and other features drawn from Italian 
municipal palaces. The 1st Congregational Church (society founded 1637) 
fronts on -this square. In 1 M. from the City Hall, passing N. W. on the 
busy and attractive Main St., one reaches Round Hill and the Memorial 
Church, built of granite in Gothic architecture. Hampden Park, near 
by, on the banks of the river, has fine race-tracks, and is used for cattle- 
shows. 

There are several fine churches in the city besides those mentioned (20 
churches in all). There are 9 Masonic bodies, 4 of Odd Fellows, 7 banks 
of deposit, and 3 savings banks. The valuation of the city in 1872 was 
$30,000,000, and during the same year its merchants had $20,000,000 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 133 

worth of wholesale trade, mostly from the valley towns which draw their 
supplies from this point. 

In 1870 Springfield had 300 manufacturing companies, employing 4,000 men and 
1,000 women. Among the principal works are those of Smith and Wesson, where 
COO men are employed in making pistols. This company received in 1873 orders 
from the Russian government for 40,000 revolvers. At BrlghLwood (N. of the 
city) is the Wason Car Manufactory, whose buildings required 2,000,000 bricks in 
their construction. These works employ 400 men, and turn out 100 passenger 
and 900-1,000 freight cars yearly, besides many thousand car-wheels. They have 
made most of the cars for the Pacific Railroad and the New Jersey Central, and 
also a superb car for the Egyptian Khedive. Nearly 800 men were engaged in 
this city, during the Secession War, in the manufacture of saddles and heavy 
harness for the army. They delivered to the government $2,500,000 worth of 
those articles. Yt present about 200 men are employed in making trunks and 
harness. 

Station, Longmeadow (the Indian Massacsic), settled in 1644 on the 
long meadows by the Connecticut. It is a pretty village on a gentle 
swell near the intervales, and its people are devoted to farming. 

The State of Conn, is now entered, and the train stops at Thompson- 
ville (Globe Hotel), the seat of the largest carpet-works in the country. 
Since 1828 this industry has been growing, until now it uses up 900 tons 
of imported wool each year, and turns out 1,800,000 yards of ingrain and 
Venetian carpets, from 141 looms. 3-4 M. E. of this village is the large 
community of the Enfield Shakers. The village of Enfield (settled by 
Salem men, in 1681) is a short distance S. of Thompsonville. 

Station, Warehouse Point, where the line crosses the Conn. River by 
the * Ron Truss Bridge, a noble piece of engineering, built in Manchester, 
England, and set up here in 1866. The road-bed of 18 ft. wide is sus¬ 
tained 47 ft. above the water by wrought-iron trusses, held up by 17 
granite piers. The bridge is 1,525 ft. long and cost $ 265,000. 

At Hazardville, a few miles N. E., are the powder-works of Col. Hazard. These 
are the largest in England or America, and the former country bought $ 1,250,009 
worth of Hazard’s powder during the Crimean War, while vast amounts were 
made for the United States during the Secession War. 

Station, Windsor Locks (Charter Oak House), with iron and paper 
mills on the water-power afforded by a canal built before the era of rail¬ 
roads to enable vessels to pass the Enfield Falls and gain the Upper Conn. 
Tourists were formerly carried from Springfield to New Haven in small 
steamboats by this route. The line crosses the Farmington River by a 
fine seven-arched bridge of red sandstone, 450 ft. long. 

Station, Windsor (Alford House), settled in 1633-6 by men of Dor¬ 
chester, on the rich intervales of Mattaneag. 

In addition to harassments from the ten Indian tribes with their 2,000 bowmen 
who lived about Mattaneag, the little colony was early attacked by 70 Holland 
troops, sent by Gov. Van Twiller. The Dutch expedition retired before the 
firm and fearless Puritans, and the Indians soon sold out. Rev. John Warhain, 
the pastor-chief, who led this nomadic Dorcestrian Church in its 14 days’ march 
through, the wilderness, was the first of the New England clergy who used notes in 
preaching. In 1644 a road was built to Northampton, freight by sea to or from 


134 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Boston costing at this time 33 per cent ad valorem. Matthew Giant came from 
England to Dorchester in 1630, and thence went to Windsor. The family lived 
here for over a century, until Noah Grant was killed in the battle of Lake George 
(1755). This officer was the great-grandfather of President Grant. Roger Wol¬ 
cott and his son Oliver, governors of Conn. 1751 -4, and 1796-7, were horn here. 
Oliver Ellsworth, U. S. Senator, 1789-95, and afterwards Chief Justice of the 
U. S., was horn here in 1745. Another native of Windsor was Gen. Phelps, who, 
with his associates, bought of Mass, and Conn. 5,500,000 acres of the Western 
wilderness, at a nominal price. These tracts were laid off in townships and 
ranges, and sold to settlers. They now comprise the counties of Ontario and 
Steuben (New York), and the Western Reserve of Ohio. 

There is a long, broad Green near the station, near which are the Wol¬ 
cott and Moore mansions, and the new Episcopal Church, and just over the 
river, is the old Cong. Church and the Green which was the cradle of 
Windsor, and is still called the Palisado. This town grows much tobacco, 
of which 5,830,000 pounds were raised in the county in 1870. 

Hartford. 

Hotels. — * Allyn House, a fine hrownstone building near the station, ac¬ 
commodating 300 guests. '$4.00 a day; * City Hotel, on Main St., $3.00 a day; 
the United States and the American Hotels, on the old State House Square. 

Railroads. —The present route to Springfield and Boston (124 M.), New 
Haven and New York (109 M.) ; the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill, to Provi¬ 
dence on the E. (90 M.) and Waterbury on the W. (32 M.) ; the Conn. Valley R. R. 
to Saybrook Point (44 M.) ; the Conn. Western, to Salisbury and Millerton (69 M.). 

Steamers. — Daily to the river-landings and Sag Harbor (Long Island) in the 
morning ; daily, in the afternoon, for the lower landings ; daily for the river- 
landings and New York City. 

Stages to Farmington, Broad Brook (14 M.), Wethersfield, Rocky Hill, Crom¬ 
well, Marlboro (20 M.) ; to Bloomfield and Simsbury, N. Canton, and W. Hartland 
(30 M.). 

Horse-Cars run along Main St. from Spring Grove Cemetery to Wethersfield 
(7 M.), also from the New York steamboat pier, at the foot of State St., through 
State and Asylum Sts. 2 M., passing the R. R. Station and the Deaf and Dumb 
Asylum. 

Carriages cost 50c. a course in the city, 75c. for 2 persons, and $1.00 for 3 
persons. Double fares between 12 and 6 at night. By the hour, $2.00. 

Amusements and lectures frequently at Roberts’ Opera House (an elegant 
auditorium), 395 Main St., or at Allyn Hall, on Asylum St. near the Allyn House. 

Post Office at 252 Main St. Masonic Hall at 395 Main St. 

* The Park (45 acres) is a pleasant resort in the afternoon. It is reached by 
several stone bridges over Park River, and has cost the city $270,000. 

Connecticut was first explored by the Dutch, one of whose sturdy mariners, 
Adrian Black, ascended the Conn. River as far as the Enfield Falls in the 16-ton 
yacht, “ Onrest ” (1614). In 1633 the Dutch built a 2-gun fort, called the “ Hirse 
of Good Hope,” on the present site of Hartford, and lived peaceably, tilling the 
ground and trading with the Indians, until June, 1636, when Thomas Hooker led 
his church from Newtown through the wilderness, and settled here. The Park 
River afforded a water-power for a grist-mill, which was speedily utilized, and 
Windsor and Wethersfield, previously more important, brought their grain here 
to be ground. The colony was named for an old Saxon town 21 M. N. of London, 
derived from “the Ford of Harts.” Three watch-towers were built, and the men 
of the colony enrolled in train-bands, two thirds of whom had matchlocks, 
bandoleers, and rests, while the other third were armed with pikes 10 ft. long, and 
guarded the standard. These train-bands stormed the breach in the Narragansett 
Fort fight. Wahquimacut, sachem of the river tribes, deeded the lands to the 
settlers, and gave them a tribute of beaver-skins and corn, in return for their pro¬ 
tection against Pekoath, king of the Pequots, and the dreaded Mohawks. . Under 
the influence of her stern Puritan pastors, Hartford enacted the “Blue Laws,” by 



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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 135 


which the penalty of death was visited for tho crimes of idolatry, unchastity, 
witchcraft, blasphemy, murder, man-stealing, rebellion, smiting parents, &c.’ 
with savage laws against Sabbath-breaking and the use of tobacco. In 1765, a 
stamp-agency was established here, but it was speedily broken up by an irruption 
of 200 armed riders from Windham County. In 1790 -1800 the town became an 
important point on the great Atlantic stage-road, and 16 lines of stages centred 
here. De Warville wrote here, “ In Conn. Nature and Art have displayed all their 
treasures ; it is really the Paradise of the U. S. ” ; and among other products of 
the State, he speaks enthusiastically of “ the fair Conn, girls.” In December, 
1815, the infamous Hartford Convention, composed of 26 delegates from the 
States of New England, met here, to deliberate about crippling the general gov¬ 
ernment in the war with England, to which war many of the people in this 
section were opposed. In 1799 Hartford had a valuation of $751,533, and in 
1818 its population was 6,500, at which time a writer predicts “that it-will con¬ 
tinue to extend its size, its interests, and its consequence.” 

Hartford, “ The Queen City of New England,” is a semi-capital of the 
State of Conn., and is finely situated on low hills at the junction of the 
Park and Conn. Rivers. It is noted for its benevolent and educational 
institutes, its extensive manufactures, and its powerful insurance com¬ 
panies. The population is 38,000. 

Trinity College is a wealthy Episcopalian institution, founded in 
1823, and in 1871 having 15 instructors and 92 students. This was first 
known as Washington College, and in 1872 it had 3 long, brownstone 
buildings (Seabury, Jarvis, and Brownell Halls) on the site sold for the 
present new State Plouse. These halls stood on a beautiful summit over 
the Park, on which the State House is to be erected. This will be a 
noble building, in the architecture known as the Secular Gothic (whose 
best forms are seen in the Hotels de Ville of Belgium), after plans by 
Upjohn, of New York. On this hill is a colossal * statue of Bishop 
Brownell (founder of the College, and Bishop of Conn., 1819-65) in his 
episcopal robes. The statue (11 ft. high) is of bronze, and was made at 
Munich. The Episcopal church is stronger (proportionally) in Conn, 
than in any other State. 

The Congregational Theological Institute (founded 1834, and has 
graduated 290 men) is back of the Wadsworth Athenaeum. 

Of the 30 churches of the city, several are adorned with ivy of great 
luxuriance. The 1st Presbyterian is a neat Romanesque building of Conn, 
granite and Ohio stone, and the following are built of red-stone, in Gothic 
forms: Christ, St. John’s, Trinity, Incarnation, the 1st M. E., the South 
Baptist (with a fine portico supported by Caen stone columns), the Pearl 
St. Cong, (with a spire 212 ft. high). The three Cong, churches on Main 
St., the 1st Church (organized in 1633), the South Church (organized in 
1669), and the 4th Church have fine buildings. The * Park Cong. Church 
is of sandstone, in the early English Gothic style, with stone columns along 
the aisles, and a timber roof. The Catholics have 2 large stone churches 
(St. Peter’s and the Cathedral of St. Patrick), and are about to build an 
elegant new Cathedral. The * Church of the Good Shepherd (Episco- 


136 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


pal), built by Mrs. Colt as a memorial of her husband and children, is a 
gem of Gothic architecture, built of Portland stone trimmed with Ohio 
white stone, with a spire 150 ft. high, containing a sweet chime of bells. 
The W. front has a grand memorial window, in the centre St. Joseph 
carrying the child Jesus, above which is an angel with 3 children; on the 
1. the angel of the resurrection, on the r. a singing angel. The clerestory 
windows are low and brilliant, while the chancel windows represent Christ 
and the 12 Apostles. The chancel is separated from the organ (on the 
r.) and the baptistery (on the 1.) by columns of Scotch granite. The 
* baptismal font is sustained by a group of marble cherubs. 

The High School is near the Park in a noble * building of Norman and 
French architecture, finished in 1869, at a cost of $ 160,000. Near it, and 
on Asylum St. (also near the It. R. station, with its Italian campaniles) 
is the mansion long occupied by Mrs. Sigourney, the poetess. The city is 
about to erect on the Park a statue of Dr. Horace Wells, one of the dis¬ 
coverers of surgical anaesthesia. 

Back of the Cong. Church, opposite the Athenaeum, is the ancient 
graveyard .(entrance to the r. of the church). Here are many graves of 
the 17th and 18th century, with a massive sandstone monument to the 
memory of the first settlers. Two tables (on the r.) cover the remains of 
Thomas Hooker, “the renowned minister of Hartford and pillar of Conn., 
the Light of the Western Churches ” (Mather) ; and of Samuel Stone, a 
divine who died here in 1633, and whose epitaph begins, 

“ New England's glory and her radiant crowne 
Was he, who now on softest bed ofdowne. 

Till glorious resurrection morn appeare. 

Doth safely, sweetly sleepe in Jesus here.” 

The Deaf and Dumb Institute was founded by Dr. Gallaudet in 1817, 
and is the oldest in America. The building (130 by 50 ft.) was erected 
in 1820, and stands on an embowered hill near the R. R. station, on 
Asylum St. It has 200 - 250 inmates. The Retreat for the Insane (es¬ 
tablished 1824) is a stately building of sandstone covered with gray 
cement, in the S. W. part of the city. From its great elevation, its 
vicinity commands fine valley-views. It has received over 4,000 patients, 
and has discharged 2,000 as cured. The City Hospital is near the Retreat, 
and is a large, plain, and commodious building of sandstone. In the 
opposite section of the city (Upper Main St.) is the State Arsenal, the 
Widows’ Home, and the extensive North Cemetery. 

The old State House Square is in the heart of the city. Here stands 
the State House , a homely old structure of brick, which dates from 1794. 
In its Senate chamber the Hartford Convention assembled in 1815. The 
Secretary s office contains the original royal charter, framed in wood of 
the Charter Oak. In the Senate Chamber, also, besides Stuart’s picture 
of Washington, and portraits of the governors of Conn, from 1635 to 1870, 
is a large chair made of the same wood. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 137 


In Oct. 16S7, Sir Edmund Andros, the royal governor of New England, entered 
Hartford with, his troops, and demanded the royal charter, the only safeguard of 
the liberties of Conn. During a stormy evening-meeting the lights were suddenly 
extinguished, and a bold colonial gentleman seized the charter and fled forth. 
He hid it in a hollow in an oak-tree, and there it stayed until Andros had left the 
town in great anger. The charter was ever after preserved, and the tree was held 
in increasing veneration until 1856, when it was blown down in a storm. Its 
place is now marked with a marble slab. 

Mark Twain asserts that in a late visit to Hartford he saw articles as follows 
made from this tree : “a walking-stick, dog-collar, needle-case, three-legged stool, 
boot-jack, dinner-table, ten-pin alley, tooth-pick, and enough Charter Oak to 
build a plank-road from Hartford to Great Salt Lake City.” 

Near the State House Square, on the N. facing Market St., is the City 
Hall, in the Grecian architecture, hut clingy in appearance. 

The olcl State House is to he removed to another part of the Square, 
and an extensive government building will he erected on its present site. 

Opposite State House Square is the superb granite * building of the 
Conn. Mutual Insurance Company, recently completed at a cost of 
$ 7 - 800,000. A short distance below this building is the fine granite 
block belonging to the Hartford Fire Ins. Co. On Main St., alongside of 
the Atlienseum, is the lofty * granite palace of the Charter Oak Insurance 
Co., which cost above $700,000. The beautiful halls and offices within 
should be visited, and by ascending in the elevator to the observatory on the 
roof (a courtesy granted by the-company ; small fee to the conductor of 
the elevator), a fine view is obtained of the city and its environs. The 
elegantly finished sandstone office of the Etna Ins. Co. is nestled alongside 
of the Charter Oak building. There are 21 insurance companies in the 
city (9 Life, and 12 Fire), having an aggregate capital amounting to scores 
of millions. 

Wadsworth Athenseum. 

While Arnold was plotting at West Point (1780), Washington and Rochambeau 
were making plans and enjoying hospitable cheer at the mansion (in Hartford) of 
Col. Wadsworth, Commissary-General of the Army. Wadsworth’s son gave the 
land, after removing the mansion, for a public library, and the present building 
(of Glastenbury gneiss, in castellated architecture) was built from the proceeds 
of a popular subscription of $ 52,000. On the lower floor of the Athenaeum is 
the Statuary Hall (fee 25 c.), containing casts of Ganymede, Washington, Pan, the 
Shepherd Boy, the Truant, Genevieve, Calypso, and an allegorical figure of Com¬ 
merce, all by Bartholomew (who died at Naples, 1858). Casts, by the same de¬ 
signer, of Ruth and Naomi, Hagar and' Ishmael, the Morning Star, Belisarius at 
the Pincian Gate. There are also casts of Schwanthaler’s “Bavaria,” and small 
busts (German) of Schon, Murillo, Correggio, Velasquez, Domenichino, Raphael, 
Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Ghirlandaja, Fiesole, Mozart, Goethe, Andrea del 
Sarto, Bellini, Van Dyk, Rubens, Francia, Masaccio, Perugino, Claude Lorraine, 
Poussin, Van Eyk, Hemling, Dlirer, Holbein, and Titian. 17 of Rogers’s statuettes 
occupy one long shelf. 

Busts fin mai’ble) of President Fillmore, and * Diana, by Bartholomew; Wads¬ 
worth, Horace Bushnell, and C. H. Olmstead, by Ives. 

Statues, Stella, and * Sappho, Bartholomew, and an elaborate work, * Eve 
Repentant, his masterpiece. She is sitting with head bowed and hands clasped 
in contrition, while her long, luxuriant hair hangs down her back, and a serpent 
is seen curling about her on the ground. The statue is upon an octagonal pedes¬ 
tal of marble, with the following Avell-designed bas-reliefs : 1st Panel, Creation of 
Woman ; 2, the Temptation ; 3, the Fall; 4, Hiding from God ; 5, the Expulsion 
from Eden; 6, Lamentation; 7, Tilling the Ground ; 8, the First-Born. 


138 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


On the upper floor is the Picture Gallery. West Wall. 93, Quebec, by Church ; 
94, View on the Susquehanna, Church; 28, Ecee Homo ; 119, St. Jerome ; 2, 
Venice; 21, George Washington, copy from Stuart, by Ellsu'orth; 58, Feast at 
Levi’s House, after Paul Veronese; 134, Landscape, Lanman; 120, St. Joseph and 
Jesus, after Raphael; 32, Marie Antoinette. 

South Wall. 92, Hartford Puritans in the Wilderness, Church; Burning Ship 
at Sea, Jewett; 4, Battle (17th century); Samson in Bonds ; 1, * Heath of Warren 
at Bunker Hill, Trumbull (the celebrated historical pictures by this artist have 
explanatory charts appended); 5, Mrs. Sigourney, Trumbull; 62, Humboldt; 
121, Wellington ; 80, Oliver Wolcott, Stuart; 2, Battle of Trenton, Trumbull; 87, 
W. Ellery Channing ; 113, Brutus ; 91, Christ in the Temple, Terry; 49, Sea View 
in Fog ; 50, Night-scene at Naples (the last two are bright “restored” pictures, 
said to be by Vernet); 10, Battle of Princeton, Trumbull; 11, * Death of Mont¬ 
gomery at Quebec, Trumbull; 30, Elevation of the Cross, after Rubens; 12, Holy 
Family, Trumbull; 86, Joel Hawes, D. D._; 90, Horace Bushnell, D. D. 

East Wall. Destruction of Jerusalem, a large picture, 22x14 ft., in poor light, 
but full of study (plans on the tables near), by Whichelo; 27, Ruth and Boaz ; 95, 
Landscape, I sham; 13, Death of Jane McCrea, Vanderlyn. 

North Wall. 128, John in the Wilderness, Cole; 127, White Mountains, Cole; 
123, Marine View, Come; 129, Cascade in the Catskills, Cole; 124, The Lady of 
the Lake, Trumbull; 130, Lake Winnepesaukee, Cole; 131, View on Talcott Mt., 
Cole; 34, * View of Mt. Etna, at sunrise,from Taormina, Cole; 15, Americus Ves- 
puccius ; 16, Columbus ; * Benjamin West, Sir Thomas Lawrence; 39, Declaration 
of Independence (small artist’s copy), Trumbull; 89, Landscape near New Haven ; 
106, Milton’s Descent of Satan; portraits of various celebrities of the State of 
Conn. 

In the N. wing of the Athenseum is the Young Men’s Institute, with a circulat¬ 
ing library of 25,000 volumes, and a reading-room (an introduction by a member 
of the Institute entitles one to four weeks’ use). 

The Conn. Historical Society has its, rooms in the S. Wing (open daily ; 
no fees). Besides a large library, many curiosities are kept here, among which 
are, King Philip’s club ; Putnam’s battle-sword; bows, arrows, pikes, swords, 
&c., of six wars ; old German missals ; dress-suits at French Court of Commissary 
Wadsworth and Commodore McDonough ; * Turkish scimeter with coral and 
ivory hilt and silver scabbard, and inscriptions in Arabic and Persian ; gold pen 
“ worn out in the service of Washington Irving” ; a link (3 ft. long) of the chain 
stretched across the Hudson in 1776; a foot-stove of 1740 ; Elder Brewster’s 
chest ; Standish’s dinner-pot; Putnam’s tavern-sign ; British shells thrown into 
Stonington ; a mortar captured in Mexico ; relics of Nathan Hale and Col. Led- 
yard ; Robbins Bible (1478); Farmington church drum ; mail-bag (A. D. 1775) 
used between Harford and New Haven, 6x9 inches; the first telegraphic mes¬ 
sage sent in America (from Washington to Baltimore), “ What wonders hath God 
wrought ” ; 13 Russian medals ; Continental money ; a pistol from Colt; Confed¬ 
erate money ; a number of the “ Boston News Letter” for April 17,1704 (the first 
number of the first newspaper in America; it lasted 72 years) ; numerous por¬ 
traits, MSS., and pieces of Charter Oak; Arnold’s watch; the chair in which 
Lee signed the capitulation of Appomattox ; several battle-flags well used ; the 
swords of Putnam; of McDonough (victor in the battle of the fleets on Lake 
Champlain); of Capt. Ward, of the U. S. Navy (born Hartford, 1806, killed in the 
attack on Matthias Point, Va., June 27, 1861); of Commander Rogers (killed in 
the naval assault on Fort Sumter) ; of Col. Russell (of the 10th Conn., killed at 
Roanoke, 1862) ; of Gen. Sedgwick (killed at Spottsylvania, May 9, 1864) ; and of 
Gen. Nathaniel Lyon (commander of the U. S. Army in Missouri, killed at the 
battle of Wilson’s Creek, Aug. 10, 1861). Adjoining this room is the hall contain¬ 
ing a large reference library, endowed with $100,000 by David Watkinson, who 
died in 1857. 

The principal manufactories of Hartford are the Colt Rifle and Pistol Factory, 
which has $1,000,000 capital, and employs 800 hands. Since Col. Colt’s death it 
has been run by a company, of which Gen. Franklin is President. Its immense 
buildings are in the S. E. part of the city, near the river, from whose inundations 
they are guarded by a dike (50 ft. broad at the top, and 8,700 ft. long), which cost 
$80,000. The Church of the Good Shepherd is near by, and close to the factory 
is a colony of Swiss, who make up willow-ware from material grown here. In the 
W. part of the city is the Sharp Rifle Manufactory, employing 6 - 700 men, which 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 139 


has made 100,000 rifles for the U. S., besides filling large orders for England, Ger¬ 
many, Spain, China, Japan, Mexico, Peru, and Chili. The Wm. Rogers Co. turns 
out 1800,000 worth of plated spoons and forks yearly ; the Ashmead Gold-Beat¬ 
ing Co. use up 3,640 ounces of gold yearly ; the Weed Sewing-Machines are made 
to the number of 20,000 ; the Colt Willow-Ware Co. have 75 acres of willow, and 
turn out 100 tons of ware each year ; the Coburn Soap Co. produces 900 tons, in 
40 varieties ; and the great publishing houses (subscription books) print many 
score thousand volumes yearly. Hartford is also an important market for wool 
and tobacco. 

The city has 17 banks, 7 Masonic lodges, 4 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 of 
Knights of Pythias, 2 Grand Army Posts, 6 temperance societies, and 7 
elite military companies, one of which, the Putnam Phalanx, is widely 
famed. Its members dress in antique uniforms, and the coi’ps (125 men) 
is said to represent $11,000,000. The city has more Avealth in propor¬ 
tion to its population than any other American city, and its society is of 
a high and cultivated order. 

By following Main St. to the S. beyond St. Peter’s Church, Armsmear 
is soon reached (on the 1.). This is the residence of the Colt family, with 
spacious grounds adorned with groves, lakes, marble statuary, green¬ 
houses, and a deer-park. Near the mansion is a beautiful * copy (in 
bronze) of the Amazon and Tiger, at the Museum in Berlin. About 3 M. 
beyond is ancient Wethersfield, settled by men of WatertoAvn, Mass., in 
1335. At 1636, the first Conn, legislature convened here declared Avar 
against the Pequots. The old Webb mansion, near the Cong. Church, 
was Washington’s head-quarters, and here frequent and protracted councils 
of the French and American officers prepared the plans which ended at 
Yorktown. The town has long been noted for its great crops of onions. 
Since 1826, the State Prison has been established here. 

About 3 M. S. W. of the city is Cedar Grove Cemetery, on a bare and 
lofty hill commanding views of the Queen City and the valley of the 
Conn. The * Beach Memorial is a beautiful Avork of Italian art. A high 
base, suiTOunded by elegant bas-reliefs, supports a vase, which is sheltered 
by a tabernacle in red, yellow, and Avhite marbles, supported by columns 
of Scotch granite. The Clark Monument is surmounted by a colossal 
bronze Angel of the Resurrection (cast in Munich). The Russel Monu¬ 
ment is croAvned by a life-size and life-like seated statue. The monument 
to Col. Samuel Colt (who invented the revolving pistol) consists of a lofty 
Egyptian column of Scotch granite, surmounted by a bronze angel, Avhile 
on the pedestal is the family coat-of-arms (a colt rampant, Avith a broken 
spear in his mouth). 

Talcott Mt. is about 9 M. W. The estate “Monte Video ” of the old family 
of Wadsworth is on its summit, and the pretty Gothic villa is near a “deep, cold, 
crystalline lake,” on the brow of the mt. From a neighboring toAyer, “you have 
a glorious '* view of the surrounding country, and into the adjoining States of 
Mass, and N. Y. ; the whole surrounded by an impurpled outline of mts. The 
Conn, is seen sweeping onward like a king, through its fair domain, amid the 
spires of numerous towns and Adllages, Avhile, by the aid of a glass, the sails of 





140 Route. 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


the vessels in the port of Hartford, and the movements in the streets, are dis¬ 
tinctly visible.” (Mrs. Sigourney.) “The peculiarities of the beautiful and 
grand scenery of Monte Video make it quite without a parallel in America, and 
probably with few in the world. ” (Prof. Silliman.) 

Rocky Hill (7 M. S.) presents a remarkable junction of trap-rock and sandstone. 
From this point is enjoyed a rich view over the river valley, embracing Wethers¬ 
field and its intervales, Glastenbury and the LymeMts., N. Hartford, and, 40 M. to 
the N., the Mts. of Tom and Holyoke. The ride to Rocky Hill, by the river-road, 
is a favorite one with the Hartford citizens. 

Other excursions are to Tumble-Down Brook (8 M. W.), to E. and W. Hartford, 
to Glastenbury, and over Newington Mt. S. Windsor (6 M. N.)was a depot for 
prisoners during the Revolution, and its numerous lines ot' elms were planted by 
British and Hessian captives, under the direction of Lafayette. Here was born 
John Fitch, inventor and builder of the first steamboat in America. _ He ran a 
steamer-line on the Delaware River from 1786 to 1790, the boat making 8 M. an 
hour. Fulton’s steamers, the “Clermont” and the “Car of Neptune,” were put 
on the Hudson in 1807. 50 years ago more gin was made in E. Windsor than in 

any other town in America. 


After leaving Hartford, the line runs S., leaving the river, past Newing¬ 
ton to Berlin, whence branch tracks diverge to Middletown, 10 M. on the 
S. E., and New Britain, 2| M. on the N. (see Route 11). Berlin village 
(S. E. of the station) was for scores of years the home of the peripatetic 
tin-pedlers who traversed the country between Mobile and Quebec. The 
manufacture of tin-ware originated here about 1775, and is still carried 
on. The heroic Major Hart was born here, who, at Gen. St. Clair’s defeat 
on the Miami River (1791), led a battalion of the 2d U. S. Infantry (the 
rear-guard) on a fearful charge, in which he and nine tenths of his men 
were killed. At E. Berlin are the works of the American Corrugated 
Iron Co. Percival, the poet, was born here in 1795. 

Station, Meriden (Meriden House), a busy little city midway between 
Hartford and New Haven. Near the City Hall (E. of the track) are sev¬ 
eral churches, and some neat villas crown the heights beyond. The 
spacious and imposing building of the State Reform School is passed by 
the train just before reaching the station. The highway to the N. passes 
Mt. Lamentation, and then runs through a narrow pass in the Blue Mts. 
called the Cat Plole, 1 M. long. Ice is found near this deep glen through¬ 
out the year. West Peak, 3 M. from the city, commands a view extend¬ 
ing from Hartford to New Haven, and over Long Island Sound. 


;] 


The Meriden Britannia Co. has 6 large buildings, one of which is 527 x 40 ft. 
1,000 hands are employed, 420 tons of nickel, white metal, and silver are used 
yearly, and $2,500,000 worth of wares are sent out every year to all parts of the ! 
world. Ives, Rutty, & Co. make 4,000 tons of tin-ware yearly ; the Meriden i 
Cutlery Co. (the first in America) employ 400 hands ; Wilcox & Co. employ 300 
hands in making balmorals, hoops, and corsets ; and the Malleable Iron Co. and 
the Parker Shot-Gun Co. have works here.. 

On the great land route from Boston to New Haven, Belcher built a fortified 
tavern here in 1660. Levi S. Ives, Episcopal Bishop of North Carolina (1831 - 52), 
who was received into the Roman Catholic Church at the city of Rome in 1852, 
was a native of Meriden. 


After Yalesville is Wallingford Station (Beacli House, an elegant sum¬ 
mer-house, formerly the home of M. Y. Beach, proprietor of the “ N. Y. 




BOSTON TO ALBANY, &c. 


Route 22. 141 


Sun”; the ancient Washington House was "burned in May, 1872). Daven¬ 
port preached a sermon at the founding of this town (in 1669) from the 
text, “ My beloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill.” On that 
fruitful hill the village is "built, with a neat town hall, a costly Episcopal 
church, and a fine modern school-house, besides several neat villas. 
Manufactures of German-silver ware, Albata plate, &c., are carried on on 
the plain. The Hanging Hills form a lofty and picturesque scene to the 
W. of the village. W. of the station (f M.) is a branch of the Oneida 
Community, containing about 50 persons, on an estate of 2 - 300 acres. 
They believe in the power of the New Testament doctrines to render men 
morally perfect, and all their property is held in common. The object of 
this mission colony (which receives subsidies from Oneida) is to propagate 
the Oneida tenets in New England. 

The line follows the Quinnipiac Valley to N. Haven. There is here a 
Gothic church (Episcopal) facing the Green, near which is the house where 
Dr. Trumbull the historian lived for 50 years, and wrote 4,000 sermons 
and several books. North Haven makes several million bricks yearly. 
The train soon passes East Rock (on the r.), crosses Mill River, and enters 
New Haven. 

New Haven to New York, see Route 8. 

22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West. 

Via the Boston and Albany Railroad, Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R., and New 
York Central R. R. Boston to Albany, 202 M. Fare, $5.80. Boston to Saratoga, 
240 M. 

This is the favorite route running W. from Boston, and will long hold this posi¬ 
tion, since the principal inland cities of Massachusetts are on its line. When its 
construction was first talked of, the “ Boston Courier ” derided the scheme, saying 
that it could be built only at an “ expense little less than the market value of the 
whole territory of Massachusetts, and which, if practicable, every person of com¬ 
mon-sense knows would be as useless as a railroad from Boston to the moon.” 
Yet the work went on, the road was completed to Worcester in 1885, to Spring- 
field in 1839, and to Albany in 1842. The admirable appointments and organiza¬ 
tion of this route, and its immunity from accidents, have given it a wide reputa¬ 
tion and an extensive patronge. 

The Station in Boston is on the corner of Beach and Lincoln Sts. (PI. 
35). 

After emerging from the city, the line crosses the Providence Railroad 
(Route 8) on the Back Bay lands, and passes the junction of the Woon¬ 
socket Railroad (2 M. out). A fine panoramic view is gained by a back¬ 
ward glance from the windows on the r. of the car, embracing the ancient 
academic city of Cambridge, with the heights of Somerville and Charles¬ 
town, while much of Boston is visible to the rear. 

For the itinerary between Boston and Springfield, see Route 21. 

The line crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge just after leav¬ 
ing Springfield, and follows the valley of the Agawam River past W. 


142 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Springfield Station (a manufacturing village; Agawam Hotel) to West- 
field (Willmarth House, Westfield House). The Indian domain of Woro- 
noco was settled by the English in 1660, and called Streamfield, from 
the abundance of its waters, but later, the Legislature named it Westfield, 
as the most westerly of the settlements. Late in King Philip’s War, the 
colonial council ordered that this, and all the other valley towns, should 
be evacuated, and that their inhabitants should concentrate at Springfield 
and Hadley. An angry refusal was returned, and the towns negotiated 
for union with Conn, until the obnoxious edict was repealed. Westfield 
built a fort and stood her ground. At present it is a busy village, where 
32 firms make 2,500,000 whips a year, and 8 -12,000,000 cigars are an¬ 
nually made. The State Normal School located here has 160- 200 stu¬ 
dents, and is of high reputation. Several churches front on the Green, 
which is adorned by a monument by which “ Westfield honors the 
memory of her sons who have fallen in defence of Liberty, Union, and 
Independence, 1861 to 1865.” The pedestal bears the arms of the State 
and of the Union, and a list of the slain, and is surmounted by a bronze 
soldier, of heroic size. The village is situated in a beautiful valley by the 
Westfield River, \ M. S. of the station. The New Haven and North¬ 
ampton Railroad crosses the line at this point. 

The line now runs up the valley of the Westfield River, passing 
Pocliassic Hill and Mt. Tekoa on the r., and stops at Russell (Russell 
House), in a mountainous town. Station, Huntington and Chester, after 
which the line passes into Berkshire County (see Route 23). Beyond the 
borders of Berkshire and of Massachusetts the line enters New York State, 
and connects at Chatham with the Hudson and Boston R. R. and the' 
Harlem R. R. From Chatham, it runs N. W., through Kinderhook and 
Schodack, to Greenbush, and thence crossing the Hudson on a noble bridge, 
enters the city of Albany. 

Connections are here made with the New York Central R. R. for the West, and 
with other routes for New York, Saratoga Springs, &c. Also with the Hudson 
River boats. From Albany to Utica, 95 M. ; to Rome, 109 M. ; to Syracuse, 147 
M. ; to Rochester, 250 M. ; to Buffalo, 297 M. ; to Niagara Falls, 305 M. ; to De¬ 
troit, 536 M. ; to Chicago, 820 M. These distances are calculated on the N. Y. 
Central R. R., and the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern R. R. (via Toledo and 
Cleveland), which it meets at Buffalo. By the same route and the shortest lines 
beyond, the whole distance from Boston to Niagara Falls is 507 M.; to Chicago, 
1,022 M. ; to St. Louis, 1,302 M. ; to Omaha, 1,515 M. ; to San Francisco, 3,429 M. 


23. The Berkshire Hills. 

This district will be considered in connection with its railway system, whose 
various lines will be treated of independently of their connections beyond the 
county limits. 

The Berkshire Hills form a beautiful and picturesque district of mountains and 
lakes, abounding in charms for the lover of nature. Thousands of city people 
flock hither every summer, and rest and relax amid scenes so peaceful and attrac¬ 
tive. The best time for a visit here is in October, “when the holiday b511- lift 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route S3. 143 


their wreathed and crowned heads in the resplendent days of autumn.” Says 
Beecher of this season in Berkshire, “ Have the evening clouds, suffused with 
sunset, dropped down and become fixed into solid forms? Have the rainbows 
that followed autumn storms faded upon the mts., and left their mantles there ? 
What a mighty chorus of colors do the trees roll down the valleys, up the hill¬ 
sides, and over the mts. 

“From Salisbury to Williamstown and then to Bennington in Vermont, there 
stretches a county of valleys, lakes, and mts., that is yet to be as celebrated as 
the lake-district of England, or the hill-country of Palestine.” 

Another writer says : “ Berkshire is a region of hill and valley, mt. and lake, 
beautiful rivers and laughing brooks, —the very Piedmont of America.” Godfrey 
Greylock naively writes, “Somebody has called Berkshire the Piedmont of Amer¬ 
ica. I do not know how just the appellation may be, but I do know that it' 
Piedmont can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a very de¬ 
lightful region.” 

The route from Boston to Central Berkshire is by the Boston and Albany R. R. 
Distance to Pittsfield, 151 M. ; fare, $4.35. 

The route from New York to Berkshire is by the Housatonic R. R. Distance 
to Pittsfield 166 M. Pittsfield is 53 M. from Springfield and 51 M. from Albany. 

“That section of the Western R. R. which traverses the wild hills of 
Berkshire is a work of immense labor, and a wonderful achievement of 
art. After leaving the wide meadows of the Conn., basking in their rich 
inheritance of alluvial soil and unimpeded sunshine, you wind through 
the narrow valleys of the Westfield River, with masses of mts. before 
you, and woodland heights crowding in upon you, so that at every puff 
of the engine the passage visibly contracts. The Alpine character of the 
river strikes you. At Chester you begin your ascent of 80 ft. in a mile 
for 13 M. The stream between you and the precipitous hillside, cramped 
into its rocky bed, is the Pontoosne, which leaps down precipices, runs 
forth laughing in the dimpling sunshine, and then, shy as a mountain 
nymph, it dodges behind a knotty copse of evergreen. In approaching 
the summit-level you travel bridges built a hundred feet above other 
mountain streams, tearing along their deep-worn beds ; and at the £ deep 
cut’ your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose mighty walls frown 
over you.” 

“We have entered Berkshire by a road far superior to the Appian Way. 
On every side are rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and deep set in their 
hollows lovely lakes sparkle like gems.” (Miss Sedgwick.) 

While staging through this part of Berkshire, early in this century, 
Captain Marryatt, the English novelist, derided the madness of “ certain 
crazy spirits who have conceived the idea of constructing a railroad 
through this savage region.” 

From Tekoa Mt. to Washington Summit the track rises 1,211 ft., or 82 
ft. in a mile in some long stretches. The first station is Bechet , in the N. 
of a large town abounding in lakes, from one of which flows Farmington 
River, which makes glad so much of Northern Conn. 10 M. S. of Becket 
Station is Otis (two inns), with the island-studded Great Lake. Station, 
Washington , among the hills which the Indians called Tukonick. The 
village is S. of the station in a pretty valley. Station, Ilinsdale , in a 



144 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


large town (so named in honor of its first pastor) which is “more pleasing 
to the lover of fine mountain scenery, exhilarating breezes, and crystal 
fountains, than to the farmer in quest of fortune. ” The mts. here recede 
from the line of the track, and the tall hills of Peru are seen on the E. 
(r.). Station, Dalton (Eagle Hotel), originally named Dale-town, which 
has large paper-factories.- From Dalton a highway leads to Windsor 
(Cleveland House) 7 M. N. E., the Indian “ Ouschaukamaug,” a loftily 
situated village in a town rich in Saxony and Merino sheep, and “noted 
for the longevity of its inhabitants. ” About 3 M. from Dalton, on the 
Windsor road, are the Wahconali Falls, where a mt. stream falls in 3 leaps 
over an 80-ft. cliff of gray marble. 5 M. beyond Dalton the train passes 
Silver Lake, and stops at the costly and handsome station in Pittsfield. 




Hotels. American House, on the Main St., 120 guests, at $10-15,00 a 
week ; Burbank House, opposite the station, $9 - 12.00 a week. Good restau¬ 
rant in the station. 


Pittsfield is a beautiful city of 11,113 inhabitants, and is the centre and 
capital of Berkshire County. It was settled about the middle of the last 
century (1752) on the Indian domain of Pontoosuc, and in 1761 it re¬ 
ceived its present name, in honor of William Pitt, the English statesman 
and friend of America. 


In 1844 the Berkshire Jubilee was held here, calling in thousands of the sons of 
the county from all parts of the Union ; and on Sept. 24, 1872, the largest multi¬ 
tude ever seen in Berkshire gathered here at the dedication of the Soldiers’ 
Monument. At sunrise the church-bells rang, and 37 guns were fired, and the 
procession included 8 bands of music, detachments from 9 veteran regiments, the 
2d Mass. Militia reg., and 2 Commanderies of Knights Templar. G. W. Curtis 
was the orator of the day. “ The soldiers’ monuments of the late war, happily 
arising in every town and in every village, with the beautiful rites of Decoration 
Day, hallowing the memory of heroes, are like the spring of liberty, flowing 
everywhere in the land.” The monument consists of a massive pedestal on which 
is a bronze statue of a lithe young soldier in fatigue uniform, standing at rest, 
with his left hand holding a flag-staff, and the right hand high up in the folds of 
the flag. This “Color-Bearer ” was designed by Launt Thompson, and cast from 
the metal of 5 cannon given by Congress for the purpose. The pedestal contains 
the names of 5 officers and 90 men who died in the field, out of 1,250 who enlisted 
at Pittsfield. 




“ A voice from lips whereon the coal from Freedom's shrine hath been, 
Thrilled, as hut yesterday, the hearts of Berkshire's Mountain men ; 
The echoes of that solemn voice are sadly lingering still 
In all our sunny valleys, on every wind-swept hill. 




And sandy Barnstable rose up, wet with the salt sea spray ; 

And Bristol sent her answering shout down Narragansett Bay ; 

Along the broad Connecticut old Hampden felt the thrill, 

And the cheer of Hampshire's woodmen swept down from Ilolyoke Hill. 


No slave-hunt in our borders —no pirate on our strand ! 
No fetters in the Bay State — no slave upon our land ! ” 


"Whittier. 


The monument stands in the Park, a green in the midst of the city, 
which is called the heart of Berkshire. 

Here, in the centre of an elliptical line of trees, stood the Old Elm, 
with its 90 ft. of smooth shaft, and concentric rings representing 340 years 
of growth. After being twice thunder-smitten, the Old Elm became un- 







THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 145 


safe, and was taken down in 1864, amid the mourning of the county. On 
one side of the Park is the Congregational Church (of stone), where Dr. 
John Todd (a powerful and prolific writer) preached, 1842- 70. Next to 
it is St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church. At the end of the Park is the 
elegant white marble * Court House, which, together with the Jail (in 
another street), cost $ 400,000. Near the Court House, and fronting the 
Park, is the building of the Berkshire Athenseum, containing a fine library 
and collections of local curiosities. On the comer of North and West Sts., 
near the Park, is the noble building of the Berkshire Life Insurance Co. 
On the main street are some fine business buildings, and beyond the 
American House is the small but handsome marble Cathedral of St. 
Joseph. The French residents have, also, a Catholic Church for their 
hundred families, and there is also a German Lutheran Church. Beyond 
St. Joseph’s is the Maplewood Institute (for young ladies), “ whose grace¬ 
ful chapel, gymnasium, and half ivy-covered dwellings gleam white 
through groves and avenues of famed attractiveness.” The Springside 
School (for boys) is on the borders of Pittsfield, in pleasant grounds. At 
one end of the main street is the building of the Berkshire Medical Insti¬ 
tute, established in 1821 as an appanage of Williams College, but long 
ago discontinued. The Innisfallen Greenhouse (500 ft. long) has a high 
reputation, and in the W. suburb is the Pittsfield Pleasure Park, with a 
race-course, games &c. The city is situated on a plateau 1,000 -1,200 
ft. above the sea, and surrounded by lofty hills, the Taconics on the W. 
and the Hoosacs on the E. Beautiful villas abound in the suburban 
streets, and extensive manufactures of cotton and woollen cloths, fire¬ 
arms, and cars furnish employment for the foreign population. The 
city is supplied with water from Lake Ashley, a little romantic loch 
which lies upon the summit of Washington Mt. (1,800 ft. high), 7 M. to 
the S. E. Near this lake is West Pond, from which Roaring Brook flows 
down through Tories’ Gorge to the Housatonic. 

Lake Onota (683 acres) is about 2 M. W. of Pittsfield. From the hill 
where Ashley’s Fort stood, a fine view is enjoyed, but the best prospect is 
from a long point running from the N. shore, to which locality belongs the 
legend of “ The White Deer of Onota.” 

Pontoosuc Lake, (i the haunt of the winter deer” (575acres), is3-4 M. 
N. of Pittsfield, on the road to Williamstown (20 M.). 

Berry Pond is to the N. W. in Hancock. “Berry Pond does not derive its 
name from the strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries, which by their abun¬ 
dance in the vicinity would justify the appellation, but from an obscure, stout¬ 
hearted man who once dwelt upon its border, and wrung subsistence for a large 
family of girls out of the margin of its rocky chalice. Nothing can exceed the 
beauty of this pond. Its margin is sometimes a beach of silvery sand, strewn 
with blocks of snowy quartz and delicate, fibrous mica ; again grassy ahd green to 
the water’s edge; and yet again fringed with long eyelashes of birch and hazel- 
trees, that dreamily gaze at their reflection in the mirror.” (Taconic.) 

South Mountain is 2-3 M. S. of Pittsfield. Prom its S. summit Greylock 

7 J 











146 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


is seen in the N., Mount Oceola and Perry’s Peak in the W., the Lenox Mt. in the 
S., and the Mts. of Washington in the E. The city is close-at hand in the N. with 
Lake Onota at its side. ~ Nearer is Melville Lake, or Lilly Bowl, near Lilly 
Ope, so named from an old Meg Merrilies of a liermitess named Lilly, who once 
lived in the valley. 

In the mts. N. W. of Pittsfield, and distant several miles, are some romantic 
points. Below Mt. Iionwee is the Promised Land, a name given with grim New 
England humor to a tract of land for which grants were long promised and 
longer delayed. On its W. summit is a pretty lakelet whence Lulu Ope (or valley) 
may be descended to Lula Cascade, “ a foam-white column which finds its base in a 
circular pool of black and glossy surface, overhung by a gray old boulder, and by 
masses of tangled foliage.” S. of the Promised Land is the Ope of Promise, the 
nearest (though arduous) path to Berry Pond. Then comes Arbutus Hill and 
Ope, which are covered with arbutus in May, and beyond them is Old Tower Hill, 
with a tower which commands a broad view. 

S. of the Lebanon road (which runs through Lilly Ope) is Doll Mt., where the 
Shakers formerly worshipped, and which they called Mt. Zion. Silver Lake is in 
the E. environs, and Sylvan Lake is 2 - 3 M. E. of the city. The larger lakes here¬ 
abouts are prolific in pickerel, but the trout have been nearly exterminated. 

O. Wendell Holmes long resided at a villa 2 M. N. of the city, on a small farm 
remaining from 24,000 acres purchased by his grandfather in 1735. Near him 
lived Herman Melville, the rover, and author of sea-novels. “ White Jacket,” 
“ Moby Dick,” and other works were Avritten here, Avhere he resided 1850-60. 

William Allen, D. D., the pastor, poet, and biographer (1820 - 39 Pres, of Bowdoin 
College), was born at Pittsfield in 1784. William Miller was bom here in 1781. In 
1833 lie began to harangue the people in different cities, prophesying the coming 
of the millennium in 1843. He built up a large sect, which fell to pieces Avhen the 
appointed day passed and was seen to be like other days. 

Near the station of Richmond are the remarkable geological phenomena of 
Richmond Valley, consisting of seven parallel lines of boulders, stretching across 
the valley from Perry’s Peak to Lenox Mt. in a S. E. direction. This feature was 
carefully studied by Sir Charles Lyell (in two visits), and is mapped and described 
in his “Antiquity of Man.” Perry’s Peak is famed for its superb over-view. 

To New Lebanon Springs is a favorite excursion from Pittsfield. By 
the high.way the distance is 12-15 M. ; the railroad route is circuitous, 
being by the Albany line to Chatham, and thence up the Harlem Ex¬ 
tension R. R. 

Hotel. —Columbia Hall, a fashionable and elegant summer-house. 

The thermal springs at NeAV Lebanon have won an excellent reputation 
for their efficacy in diseases of the skin and liver. The flow of the waters 
is very large, and its temperature is about 73°. There are many fine 
drives and walks in this vicinity, the favorite of which is to the Shaker 
Village, about 2 M. distant. 

The Shakers originated from a French sect which came to England in 1706, and 
Ann Lee,_ of Manchester, the daughter of a blacksmith and the wife of a black¬ 
smith, joined them in 1758. In 1770, after emerging from a madhouse Avhere she 
was confined for reviling matrimony, she announced, “ I am Ann, the Word,” and 
soon after came to America, and Avas made the “Spiritual Head” of the sect. In 
1780 she produced a revival at New Lebanon, and converted many to Shakerism, 
soon after Avhich the sect established its head-quarters there, and in 1795 accepted 
the commonAvealth covenant. She claimed the poiver of working miracles, and 
held that Christ’s coming Avas not the fulfilment of “ the desire of all nations, but 
that the second Divine advent must naturally be manifested in that partitular 
object, to wit, Avoman, which is eminently the desire of all nations.” Mother 
Ann made New Lebanon “the capital of the Shaker Avorld, the rural Vatican 
Avhich claims a more despotic sway over the mind of man than ever the Roman 
Pontiff assumed. ” On her death a peculiar hierarchy assumed the government. 
The First Elder, the successor of Mother Ann, appoints the second elder, and the 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 147 


first and second eldress. These four, called the “Holy Lead,” remain secluded, 
in the church at Lebanon, and appoint subordinate clergy, including one elder in 
each family. Their Scriptures are contained in the “ Holy Laws ” and Order 
Book, which are claimed as works of inspiration, and as partly dictated by the 
Recording Angel, although they may be amended or rescinded by the Holy Lead. 
Unlike other sects, the Shakers claim that men may join their church after death, 
and among other illustrious posthumous members, they count Washington, 
Lafayette, Napoleon, Tamerlane, and Pocahontas. “ By frugality and industry 
they give us many useful things, but they do not produce what the Republic most 
needs, —men and women.” * 

The sect has been declining since the death of its great head and her disciples, 
because it has no powers of internal development. There are many Shaker vil¬ 
lages in the N. Atlantic States, but the community at New Lebanon has dwindled 
to 20-30 members. 

3 M. S. W. of Pittsfield (by R R.) is a Shaker village, near Richmond Pond, 
and a little way to the N. of it is a mountain (in Hancock) where the devotees of 
this faith formerly held their weird meeting. Their tradition states that here on 
Mt. Sinai, the Shakers hunted Satan throughout a long summer night, and finally 
killed and buried him. Over his grave, to this day, Washington and Lafayette 
keep guard, mounted on white horses, and are seen on summer nights by the 
faithful who chance to pass their ancient shrine. 

From Pittsfield the Housatonic R. R. runs through Southern Berkshire. 
“Of all the railroads near New York none can compare, for beauty of 
scenery, with the Housatonic from Newtown to Pittsfield, but especially 
from New Milford to Lenox.” (Beecher.) Fredrika Bremer speaks of 
“the wonderfully picturesque and sometimes splendidly gloomy scenery ” 
along the line of this railroad. By this route it is 8 M. to Lenox Station 
(passing South Mt. on the r.), from which stages ascend to the village in 
2 M. By a fine carriage road it is 6 M. S. of Pittsfield. 

Hotels. Curtis’s Hotel accommodates 80-100 guests at 04.00 a day, with con¬ 
siderable reductions for a long stay. There are sevei'al large summer boarding¬ 
houses here (Mrs. Flint’s, Mrs. Clark’s, &c.), more quiet and inexpensive than the 
hotel, and some of them better situated. 

ii Lenox, known for the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air, and 
for the beauty of its mountain scenery. If one spends July or October in Lenox, 
he will hardly seek another home for the summer. The church stands upon the 
highest point in the village, and if, in summer, one stands in the door and gazes 
upon the vast panorama, he might, without half the Psalmist’s devotion, prefer 
to stand in the door of the Lord’s house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or man¬ 
sion.” So says Beecher, whose “Star Papers” were written during his summer 
visits to Lenox, in a house which stood near the site now occupied by Gen. Rath- 
bone’s mansion. 

Fredrika Bremer wrote, “ The country around Lenox is romantically lovely, 
inspired with wood-covered hills and the prettiest little lakes. ” 

This “gem among the mountains ” (Silliman) was settled in 1750, and 
received the family name of the Duke of Richmond. It is situated on a 
high hill, and contains the old Court House (which now has a library and 
reading-room) and numerous villas pertaining to gentlemen of Boston and 
New York. Fanny Kemble (Butler) long resided here, and wished to be 
buried in the graveyard on the hill, saying, “I will not rise to trouble 
any one if they will let me sleep here. I will only ask to be permitted, 
once in a while, to raise my head and look out upon this glorious scene ”; 

* Much of the foregoing account has been condensed from Dwhrht's Travels. The editor 
does not know Y.'hethcr the government remains now in the same form. 


148 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


and Beecher adds, “ May she behold one so much fairer that this scenic 
beauty shall fade to a shadow.” Lenox is the healthiest town in Berk¬ 
shire, and is 1,300 ft. above the sea-level. 600 summer visitors remained 
here through .the summer of 1872. 

Bald Head is 2 - 3 M. from the village (carriage-road to the top). From 
this point is seen the rich Stockbridge Valley, the Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac), 
and the wide Housatonic valley on the S., with Laurel Lake and Rattle¬ 
snake Mt. on the S. E. On the N. and W. are Lenox and Oceola Mts., 
on the N. is South Mt., and on the E. are the tumultuous hills of Wash¬ 
ington, “ a view wide, rich, and joyous.” 

The Stockbridge Bowl and Laurel Lake are S. W. and S. E. of Lenox, 
— each being 3 - 4 M. distant (see Stockbridge and Lee). A pretty view 
of Laurel Lake is gained from the first hill S. of the village, with Lenox 
Furnace near it on the 1. 

Perry’s Peak is 6-7 M. distant, passing Lenox Mt. and Richmond 
Valley. This lone summit, which stands on the frontier of New York, is 
2,100 ft. high, and overlooks the Hudson, the Catskills, and the Green 
Mts. New Lebanon, “ the Shaker capital, and Gretna Green of Mass.,” is 
but 7 - 8 M. beyond the Peak. 

At Lenox Furnace, 2 M. S. E. of the village, on the R. R., are extensive glass¬ 
works, where, among other varieties, the best quality of plate-glass is made, from 
pure granulated quartz. 

Other excursions are to the Ledge, the Pinnacle, and Richmond Hill. The sun¬ 
set view from Church Hill (at the N. end of the village) is one of great beauty, 
embracing even the distant Greylock. 

Lee is 4J M. S. E. of Lenox, by the highway, and 5 M. by stage and R. 
R. Hotels, Morgan House ; Strickland House (in E. Lee). 

Lee was settled in 1760, and was named for one of the Virginian Lees, 
who were so distinguished in the Continental Army. Paper-making was 
early commenced here, and now the business has assumed vast propor¬ 
tions. But the town is most widely known for its excellent white marble, 
of which $ 1,000,000 worth was used in building the U. S. Capitol at 
Washington. The quarries are close to the village on the S., and lie be¬ 
tween the R. R. and the river. The State fronts the sea with a line of 
granite and greenstone, while it fronts to the W. with hills of gneiss, slate, 
and marble. The Lee and Hudson, and Lee and New Haven Railroads are 
projected routes, which, if finished, will increase the importance of the 
town and diminish the romance of the Berkshire Hills. 

Laurel Lake is a pretty sheet of water 2. M. N. of Lee, that should be 
visited in the late afternoon to catch “ the delicate evening lights that 
glance from its tranquil surface.” 

The Yokum Ponds are among the hills a few miles S. E. of the village, 
and near the romantic Monterey road. The numerous summer visitors at 
Lee make excursions to Stockbridge (4 M.), Lake Mahkeenac (4-5 M.,) 
Tyringham and Monterey, (11 M.), and Lencx (4 h M.). 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 149 


Stockbridge 

(Stockbridge House, 70-80 guests, open only in summer. $ 3.00 a day, 
$12-18.00 a week) is 6 M. from Lee by R. R., and 4 M. by the highway. 
Stockbridge is one of the fairest of what Gov. Andrew called “the deli¬ 
cious surprises of Berkshire.” It is “ famed for its meadow-elms, for the 
picturesque beauty adjacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which 
sleeps along a level plain just under the rim of the hills.” (Beecher.) 
The hotel fronts on the wide, main street; to its 1. is a beautiful little 
marble fountain from Italy; and before it is the quaint and picturesque 
Episcopal Church, of ivy-grown and weather-stained wood* with its sweet 
and deep-toned bell. On a verdant lawn near the church is a brown- 
stone shaft with sculptured trophies, inscribed, “ To her sons, beloved 
and honored, who died for their country in the great war of the Rebellion, 
Stockbridge, in grateful remembrance-, has raised this monument. ” On 
the same side of the street, to the W., the fourth house is the ancient 
house where Edwards wrote his famous treatise on “ The Freedom of the 
Will.” Some distance beyond is the Congregational Church, with a large 
cemetery in front of it. On the Green near by is a fine memorial monu¬ 
ment to Edwards, built of polished Scotch granite. 

On the main st., E. of the hotel, is the Jackson Library, a neat little 
stone building containing 4-5,000 volumes, a cabinet of minerals, certain 
relics of Edwards, and a marble tablet, on which are inscribed the names 
of 134 officers and men who went from Stockbridge to the Secession War. 
On the street diverging from the Library is a small Catholic Church of 
marble. Beyond the Library is the old Academy with a long semicircle 
of elms in front, a copy, in living trees, of the stone porticos before St. 
Peter’s Church in Rome. Back of the Academy is Laurel Hill, with a 
turf rostrum in a glen surrounded by trees and rocks. Here in late 
August of each year meets the Laurel Hill Association, devoted to pre¬ 
serving, protecting, and increasing the beauty of the village and its en¬ 
virons. On the heights above the village are the mansions of David Dud¬ 
ley Field (for 40 years a prominent N. Y. lawyer and jurist), H. M. 
Field, D. D. (author, and for many years editor of the “ Evangelist ” ), Ivi- 
son (the publisher), Prof. Joy (of Columbia College), and the old Mission 
House, built by “the Great and General Court of His Majesty’s Province 
of Massachusetts Bay ” early in the last century. The view from these 
heights, especially about sunset, is one of the most beautiful in nature 
(it was pronounced by Dr. McCosh equal to any in Scotland), embracing 
the rich valley of the Housatonic to the E. and W., with the valley of 
Konkapot River stretching away in the S. to Monument Mt., Bear Mt. 
rising close on the 1. and the tufted Evergreen Hill dividing the valley. 

A great people crossed deep waters from a far-distant continent in the N. W. 
and marched by many pilgrimages to the sea-shore and the valley of the Hudson. 


150 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Here they built cities and lived, until a great famine scattered them and very 
many of them died. Wandering for years in quest of a precarious living, “ they 
lost their arts and manners,” and a part of them settled by the Housatonic River. 
Such were traditions of the Muhhekanew Indians told to President Dwight. In 
1734 the colony established a mission, and sent John Sergeant to teach the Muh- 
liekanews (“ people of the great moving waters ”) at their village of Houssatonnuc, 
which was named Stockbridge. This tribe was ever friendly to the English, and 
gladly received the Gospel, first from the teachings of Sergeant, who labored here 
1734-49, and translated the New Testament, and part of the Old, into their 
language. In 15 years he baptized 129 Indians. He was succeeded by Jonathan 
Edwards (preaching by interpreters, 1751-7), who in turn was succeeded by 
Stephen West. Many of the Indians enlisted in the Continental Army, and a 
company of them won high distinction at the battle of White Plains. In 1751 
there were 150 Indian families here, and but 6 English families ; but by 1783 the 
balance had changed, and John Sergeant’s son, then their pastor, led the tribe to 
New Stockbridge, on land given by the Oneida tribe, in Western New York. 
About 400 people were numbered in this emigration. They remained there 34 
years, and then moved to Wisconsin, where they stayed 17 years morer and about 
the year 1840 moved to the vicinity of Leavenworth, in Kansas. Where they have 
been crowded to since, this record cannot tell. 

In 1669 the great Sachem Checkatabut, head of the Massachusetts Indians, 
with 700 warriors, marched from the sea to the Hudson on a campaign against 
the Mohawks. The latter, concentrating their forces at the great tribal fortress, 
repelled all assaults and made fierce sorties, until the men of Massachusetts, find¬ 
ing their provisions failing, and the whole country rising about their ears, beat a 
retreat. Their march was probably directed on Stockbridge, as being the seat of 
a rich, peaceful, and friendly tribe, where they could hope to get food and aid. 
But a powerful force of Mohawks, by a forced march, got ahead of them and laid 
an ambush among the dense forests and rugged ravines of the Taconics (Tagh- 
kanak, “the wood place,” or “Forest Hills”). The retreating 'warriors fell into 
the snare, and in the long and desperate conflict which ensued, Checkatabut and 
58 of his sagamores were killed, together with a great portion of the men. Only 
a handful succeeded in reaching the coast again. 

At the close of King Philip’s War, the remnants of the insurgent confederation 
took refuge in the S. Berkshire Hills. But Talcott’s “ Flying Army,” from the 
E., and the Mohawks, from the W. made such devastating inroads upon them 
that they speedily made their submission. 

Among the natives of Stockbridge are H. M. Field, D. D., the editor; Cyrus 
W. Field, the projector and organizer of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable ; E. Bacon, 
the jurist; J. S. Hart, the author; and Caroline M. Sedgwick, the popular au¬ 
thoress of “Redwood,” “Hope Leslie,” &c. 

Jonathan Edwards, the greatest of American metaphysicians, was bom in 
Conn., 1703, and a ter 30 years of preaching he settled at Stockbridge. Here he 
wrote the remarkable treatise on “ The Freedom of the Will,” in whose close and 
subtle argument he maintained “that philosophic necessity was compatible with 
freedom of the will, rightly defined, and with human responsibility. Tall and 
slender in person, he had a high, broad, bold forehead, piercing and luminous 
eyes, and a countenance indicative of sincerity and benevolence.” The great re¬ 
ligious awakening which convulsed the frozen churches of New England before 
the middle of the last century w r as largely caused by his marvellous sermons, un- 
evadable in their directness, incontrovertible in their logic, and terrific in their 
lurid earnestness. Probably no preacher since Chrysostom has had such power 
of striking convulsive terror into an audience ; and this he did simply by his 
words and by his intense earnestness, and without any of the graces or artifices 
of oratory. 

While President of New Jersey College, Edwards died (175S), leaving “The 
Freedom of .the Will,” “The Religious Affections,” and “The History of Re¬ 
demption,” as his great monuments. These, and his other waitings, including 
many sermons, fill 10 octavo volumes. 

“These three, Augustine, Calvin, and Jonathan Edwards.” 

*Lake Mahkeenac (Stockbridge Bowl) is 3-4 M. N. of the village by 
admirable roads. This is a beautiful, calm lake, surrounded by hills, and 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 151 


with the village and spire of Curtisville peering above the trees on the S. 
The best way is to go np by the road on the heights, leaving Mahkeenac 
on the 1. and passing around its N. end, return on a road W. of the Lake 
through Curtisville. 5 min. walk from the latter village is a beautiful 
little tarn called Lake Averick, or Mountain Mirror. Hawthorne lived 
in a little red farmhouse near Mahkeenac for a year and a half (1850 - 51), 
but remembered the many-sounding sea on whose shores he was born and 
had lived, and says but little about this mountain-water. But he found 
rare pleasure in watching the mountains themselves. “ In its autumn 
hues, Monument Mt. looks like a headless sphinx wrapped in a rich Per¬ 
sian shawl” ; “this valley in which I dwell seems like a vast basin filled 
with sunshine as with wine; and the changes of the seasons on Monu¬ 
ment and Bald Mts., and the black-purple dome of Taconic, with the 
winter sunset which has a softness and delicacy which impart themselves 
to a white marble world. ” 

* Monument Mt. is 3 - 4 M. from Stockbridge. The Great Barrington 
road is followed to the top of the ridge, then a wood-road diverges to the 
r. When f M. from the N. summit a path is taken which conducts to 
Pulpit Rock, the Profile (beyond the N. summit), &c. On the E. side is 
a white quartz cliff of vast depth, detached from which is the Pulpit. 
From the summit a noble * view is gained, embracing the Housatonic Yalley 
for many leagues, with its fair villages and mountain-walls, while the 
Green Mt. and Greylock tower in the N. and the Catskills may be seen 
in the W., if the day is clear. 

“ To the north a path 
Conducts you up the narrow battlements. 

Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild, 

■With many trees and pinnacles of flint. 

And many a haughty crag. But to the east 
Sheer to the vale go down the bare old cliffs, 

Huge pillars that in middle Heaven uprear 
Their weather-beaten capitals — here dark 
"With the thick moss of centuries, and there 
Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt 
Hath smitten them.” — Bryant. 

The Mt. derives its name from a cairn which was made of stones, to which 
each passing Indian added a stone. The legend states that it was raised over a 
beautiful maiden who passionately loved her cousin, and being forbidden by the 
Indian laws to marry him, she threw herself from a lofty cliff and was dashed in 
pieces. 

Icy Glen, is about 1J M. from Stockbridge, by the road crossing the R. R. just 
to the 1. of the station, — and leaving the road near some houses at the mt. foot, 
go up into a romantic glen, with seats arranged about it. From this point a wild 
chaos of rocks, caverns, and trees extends through a long ravine, where ice is 
found in July. This is the N. end of Bear Mt., on whose top an observatory has 
been raised, commanding a neat view. It is gained by crossing the river on a 
wire foot-bridge near the Main St., and taking a pleasant forest-path up the slope. 

Excursions are made from Stockbridge to Lee, Lenox, Great Barrington, and 
Mt. Everett, also to the romantic and desolate town of Monterey (11 M. S. E.). 

“ If you wish to be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the' 
summit of this encircling hill-ridge ” (above Stockbridge) in a summer’s afternoon, 
while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic winds, in great circuits, all 
through the valley, carrying willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The 


152 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


horizon on every side is piled and terraced with mountains. Abrupt and isolated 
mountains bolt up here and there over the whole stretch, of plain, covered with 
evergreens.” (Beecher.) 

Great Barrington is S. of Stockbridge, 8 M. by R. R., 6| M. by high¬ 
way. 

Hotels: Berkshire Hotel, a roomy old stone building, $10-14.00 a 
week; Miller’s Hotel. This “ is one of those places which one never en¬ 
ters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of 
great numbers of the stateliest elms.” (Beecher.) Fine macadamized 
roads are built around the place, on which excursions are made to Monu¬ 
ment Mt. (4 M.), Monterey (8 M.), and Sheffield (6-7 M.). In the vi¬ 
cinity is a curious rock formation called Purgatory, while a path leads to 
the top of E. Mt. in 2 M. The Berkshire Soda Springs (small hotel) are 
about 3 M. to the S. E., amid wild scenery. Several fine villas are in the 
outskirts of the village, and the Cong, and Epis. churches, on the main 
street, are fine buildings. • 

A daily stage runs to New Marlboro’ (Centre House), which has a large cave 
with stalactites, a rocking stone of 30 tons, and Hermit Pond, near which a lone 
hermit lived from 1770 till his death, in 1817. He was a woman-hater, and epito¬ 
mized the female character thus : — 

“ They say they will, and they won’t; 

What they promise to do, they don’t.” 

W. of New Marlboro’ is Sandislield, with Seymour and Hanging Mts. and Spec¬ 
tacle Ponds. Here was born Col. John Brown (1744), a brave partisan officer in 
the Revolutionary War, whose fearless and fanatical Puritan grandson. John 
Brown, invaded the powerful State of Virginia at the head of 20 men (Oct. 16, 
1S59), intending to become the liberator of the slaves of the South. The Virginian 
militia gathered quickly, attacked him at Harper’s Ferry, killed most of his men 
(including his two sons), and captured the wounded leader. He was hung, ac¬ 
cording to the sentence of the law, in November, “and met death with serene 
composure. ” 

A daily stage runs from Great Barrington to N. and S. Egremont, 4 - 5 M. S. E. 
The Mt. Everett House, in S. Egremont, is a small and secluded summer-hotel, 
situated about 5 M. from the lofty Mt. Everett, and in a thinly settled town 
abounding with lakes. The ascent of Mt. Everett is “along a vast, unculti¬ 
vated slope, to the height of nearly 2,000 ft., when you reach the broad valley 
where the few inhabitants reside, in the centre of a vast pile of mts.” The 
town has but 256 inhabitants. Dr. Hitchcock thus describes the * view from Mt. 
Everett: “You feel yourself to be standing above everything around you, and 
possess the proud consciousness of literally looking down upon all terrestrial 
scenes. Before you on the E. the valley through which the Housatonic meanders 
stretches far N. in Mass., and S. into Conn. ; sprinkled over with copse and glebe, 
with small sheets of water and beautiful villages. To the S. E. a large sheet of 
water appears, of surpassing beauty. In the S. W. the gigantic Alander, Riga, 
and other mts. more remote, seem to bear the blue heavens on their heads in 
calm majesty ; while stretching across the far distant W. the Catskills hang like 
the curtains of the sky. O what a glorious display of mts. all around you ! This 
is certainly the grandest prospect in Mass., though others are more beautiful.” 
r Mt. Washington town was an appanage of the great Livingston Manor, of New 
T ork, and was first settled by the Dutch, as were Egremont, Great Barrington, 
Sheffield, and Salisbury. The tourist may wonder at the apparent lack of origi¬ 
nality displayed in the name of the town, but without reason, since this is the 
first of the many American towns named in honor of the great Virginian, its name 
haying been given by the State Legislature in 1776, as being a fitting title for the 
loftiest town in Massachusetts. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 153 


In Egremont occurred the last engagement in Shays’ rebellion, when the insur¬ 
gents, after plundering Stockbridge, were attacked here by the Great Barrington 
militia, and 40 - 50 were killed and wounded. 

Basli-Bisli Falls (see Salisbury, Conn.) are about 10 M. from the Mt. Everett 
House, by a road running down through Mt. Washington, and around Cedar Mt. 
The views of Mt. Everett, Elk, Alander, and Cedar Mts. are fine. 

6 M. S. of Great Barrington is Sheffield (Miller’s Hotel, small), “ full 
of rural simplicity and beauty, richly decorated with lovely valley and 
majestic mountain scenery.” It is a quiet village, with a broad, shady 
street, in a rich intervale of the Housatonic, and is chiefly noted for its 
marble, of .which Girard College (Philadelphia), with its huge columns, 
was built. Picturesque roads run S. into Salisbury, and N. W. into 
Egremont. 

Bishop Janes, of the Methodist Church ; D. D. Barnard, 8 years M. C. and 
Minister to Prussia, 1849 - 53; F. A. P. Barnard, President of Columbia College 
since 1864 ; H. D. and T. Sedgwick, lawyers, the latter of whom was derided for 
introducing a bill in the Legislature, projecting a railroad from Boston to Albany 
(1827); Chester Dewey, D. D., clergyman and botanist; Orville Dewey, D. D., the 
Unitai'ian divine ; and Judge Daniel Dewey, — were natives of Sheffield. 

Northern Berkshire 

is approached from Pittsfield by the Pittsfield and N. Adams Branch R. 

R. There is also a romantic road leading through the western valleys and 
remote from the R. R., passing Pontoosuc Lake, and then through the 
glens between the Saddle-Back Range and that line of mts. which stretch 
from Old Tower Hill to the tall peak of Berlin Mt. This road passes 
through the villages of Lanesboro, New Ashford, and S. Williamstown. 
The R. R. first crosses part of Lanesboro (station, Berkshire, 2 small 
hotels), a town which has beds of snow-white granular quartz, used here 
in the manufacture of superior cylinder glass. Variegated marble also 
abounds here. In 1676 King Philip attacked Lanesboro with 1,500 men, 
and effected its destruction. H. W. Shaw was born in this town in 1818, 
and has since 1863 attained a high reputation as a humorist, under the 
name of “ Josh Billings.” The line here enters the valley of the Hoosac 
River, which it follows to N. Adams. Cheshire is the next town, in a 
fertile alluvial valley surrounded by lofty hills. This town is famous for 
its dairies, and in 1802 its people sent as a New Year’s gift to President 
Jefferson a mammoth cheese weighing 1,450 pounds. Before reaching 
Cheshire Harbor the great Saddle-Back Range begins, on the W., about 2 
M. from the track. A road leades from Cheshire Harbor E. into Savoy, 
a wild mt. town, with one small village called Savoy Hollow (Green Mt. 
House). 

S. Adams (the birthplace of Susan B. Anthony) is next reached. From 

S. Adams is the shortest and easiest of the routes to the top of the ma¬ 
jestic Greylock Mt. which towers over the valley. This is the highest mt. 
in Mass, and commands a * view “immense, and of amazing grandeur.” 

7 * 


154 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


The road runs W. and then N., crossing a spur of the mt., from which 
pretty views of the valley of the Hoosac and its villages are gained. De¬ 
scending now over a very rough road, the Notch (sometimes called the 
Bellows Pipe, from the gusts which draw through it) is entered. The 
mt. just crossed is called Mt. Hawks. At Walden’s house the Notch 


road is left, and Mt. Williams is rounded on its N. side, then the clearing 
between Mts. Williams and Prospect is passed ; the long W. slope of a 
ridge is ascended, and alter a southerly walk the summit is attained. A 
straighter and simpler, though less picturesque, way is right up the S. 
slope from S. Adams. 

The summit of Greylock is partially cleared, and overlooks the valley of the 
Hoosac on the N. with its villages, and the peaks of the Green Mts. beyond. N. 
of B. and S. of E., nearly GO M. away, are Mts. Monadnock and Wachusett: due 
S. E., nearly 40 M. distant, are Mts. Tom and Holyoke. Southward are the many 
peaks of the Berkshire Hills, bounded by Mt. Everett, with Pittsfield and its 
lakes, and other villages and towns. S. W. are the Catskills, and it is thought that 
the Mts. in the N. W. are those which environ Lake George. Saddle Mt. and 
Saddle Ball are close to Greylock, and respectively N. and S. The paths to the 
summit of Greylock are difficult and easily lost, and the excursion will require a 
long day. 


N. Adams (* Wilson House, expensive and first-class, with 100 rooms, 
built by Wilson, the sewing-machine inventor; Berkshire House) is a 
prosperous manufacturing village, on the Hoosac River. It has 20 cotton 
and woollen mills, and various other industries, employing 3,600 hands, 
and turning out $ 7 - 8,000,000 worth of goods a year. Some neat villas 
and a fine high-school house have been built, and the town expects great 
benefit when the Hoosac Tunnel is done, by the junction of railroads here. 
The population in 1870 was 12,092. 


About 1 M. from the village (to the E.) is the Natural Bridge, on Hudson’s 
Brook, where the waters have worn a passage through the solid rock 30 rods long 
and 15 ft. wide, leaving an arch of stained marble above it at a height of 30-60 
ft. This cavernous passage was a favorite resort of Hawthorne, who spent the 
summer of 1838 at N. Adams, and often bathed in the waters of the brook. “ The 
cave makes a fresh impression upon me every time I visit it, — so deep, so irregular, 
so gloomy, so stern ; part of its walls the pure white of the marble, others covered 
with a gray decomposition and with spots of moss, and with brake growing where 
there is a handful of earth. I stand and look into its depths at various points, 
and hear the roar of the stream re-echoing up. It is like a heart that has been 
rent asunder by a torrent of passion, which has raged and foamed, and left its 
ineffaceable traces ; though now there is but a little rill of feeling at the bottom.” 

The Cascade in Notch Brook is about 1J M. from the hotel, and has a fall of 30 ft. 
It is situated in a pretty glen. 


From the hill E. of the village are “ various excellent views of mt. 
scenery, far and near,” with “ Greylock, appearing, with its two summits 
and a long ridge between, like a huge monster crouching down slumber¬ 
ing, with its head slightly elevated.” Other fine prospects are gained 
from the various hills which surround the village. 

2 M. S. is the W. end of the * Hoosac Tunnel. This stupendous piece 
of engineering is designed to furnish a shorter route by 9 M. than now 




THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 155 


exists from Boston to the Hudson, with easy grades. By opening a new 
line to the West, it is hoped to reduce by competition the present high 
tariffs on through freight. The tunnel is to be 4f M. long, cut through 
the Hoosac Mt., whose vast bulk running N. and S. closed the way. The 
Nerthe Tunnel in S. France, and the Woodhead Tunnel in England, are 
each nearly 3 M. long ; so the Hoosac Tunnel will be second only to that 
at Mt. Cenis, which is 7\ M. long. The work is now undertaken by the 
State, and has been a fearful drain on the treasury, having already cost, 
since 1855, $5-6,000,000, and half as much more will be needed to 
finish it. Less than 2,000 ft. of excavation now remains to be done, and 
it is thought that the E. and W. cuttings will meet by Nov., 1873. From 
a valley between the peaks of the Hoosac Mt. a great shaft has been sunk 
to the grade level, and the boring operations have been conducted in each 
way from this point toward the excavations at the E. and W. ends. In 
1872, the cutting which was being made from the shaft westward met the 
tunnel from the W. end in the heart of the mountain. 

The mountain consists of solid mica slate, except at the W. end, where 
great Double was given by a soft, treacherous “ porridge stone,” through 
which a tube of brick 900 ft. long was built. The cuttings through the 
slate-rock are done by power drills propelled by compressed air (pressure 
of 6 atmospheres) and are afterwards exploded by nitro-glycerine. 

Six-horse stages leave North Adams daily for the passage of Hoosac 
Mt. to the E. end of the tunnel (8 M.). After a long, slow ascent by zig¬ 
zag gradients, the W. crest of Hoosac is gained, with a view of Greylock 
in the S. W. and the broad sweep of the Taconic Hills from the parent 
range in Vermont to the blue and cloudlike southern peaks. S. Adams 
is plainly visible, and the valley of the Hoosac stretching W., and the 
broad, central valley of Berkshire running S. Descending the slope to the 
plateau, the buildings over the Central Shaft are seen. The lofty and 
winter-worn plateau is soon crossed and the E. summit is climbed. 

A noble view is obtained from this point, above the romantic gorge of the 
Deerfield River to Wachusett Mt., “and beyond it the blue and indistinctive 
scene extended to the E. and N. for at least 60 M. Beyond the hills it looked 
almost as if the blue ocean might be seen. Monadnock was visible, like a sap¬ 
phire cloud against the sky. The scenery on the E. side of the Green Mts. is in¬ 
comparably more striking than on the W. where the long swells and ridges have a 
flatness of effect. But on the eastern part, peaks 1-2,000 ft. high rush up on 
either bank of the river in ranges, thrusting out their shoulders side by side. 
Sometimes the precipice rises with abruptness from the immediate side of the 
river; sometimes there is a valley on either side ; cultivated long and with all 
the smoothness and antique rurality of a farm near cities, this gentle picture is 
strongly set off - by the wild mt. frame around it. I have never driven through 
such romantic scenery, where there was such variety and boldness of mt. shapes 
as this ; and though it was a sunny day, the mts. diversified the vieAV with sun¬ 
shine and shadow, and glory and gloom.” (Hawthorne.) 

At Hoosac Tunnel station, at the E. foot of the mt., one meets the 
trains cf the Vt. and Mass. R. R. 








15G Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


About 1 M. W. of N. Adams, and beyond the small factory village of 
Braytonville, the road to Williamstown crosses the railroad and the Hoosac 
River. Near this crossing a small elm is seen in a meadow about 20 rods 
from the track. This elm stands on the site of old Fort Massachusetts, 
“ the Thermopylae of New England.” (Everett.) 


This was built in 1744 as one of a cordon of forts to protect the frontiers. Fort 
Dumraer guarded the N. route down the Conn, valley, and this fort was to block 
up the W. route through the Hudson, Hoosac, and Deerfield valleys. In 1746 
Col. Williams and many men marched hence to Albany to join the army for in¬ 
vading Canada, but meanwhile the enemy had made a flank march, and the Chev¬ 
alier de Vaudreuil attacked the fort at the head of 900 French and Indians. Ser¬ 
geant Hawks and 22 men held the place for 48 hours against this overwhelming 
force, and only surrendered when every grain of powder was exhausted. The 
Franco-Indian force lost 47 men before the fort. 


From Fort Massachusetts the highway, railroad, and river run through 
the narrow valley to Williamstown (Mansion House, 125 guests). This 
is a beautiful village situated in a fertile valley which is grandly moun¬ 
tain-walled. From its air of academic quiet it will be preferred as a 
summer-home to its neighbor, N. Adams, which is too prosperous to be 
still. The reason of Williamstown’s being is Williams College, a flour¬ 
ishing institution (founded in 1793), with 11 instructors and 161 students. 
W. College and Kellogg Hall are opposite President Hopkins’s house on 
the main street, and beyond them, to the E., is a cluster of buildings 
embracing the Chapel, Alumni Hall, the octagonal Lawrence Hall (con¬ 
taining a library of 12,000 volumes, many portraits of graduates, and 
some bas-reliefs from Nineveh), the E. and S. Colleges, the fine stone 
structure called Goodrich Hall, and Griffin Hall. Opposite the latter is a 
brownstone shaft sustaining the bronze statue of a soldier. It was erected 
in memory of the students of the college who died in the Secession War. 


Col. Ephraim Williams, the founder of Williams College, was born at Newton, 
Mass., in 1715. He was lieut.-colonel of the 8th Massachusetts Reg. at the siege 
of Louisbourg, in 1745, and commanded the trans-Connecticut forts from 174S to 
1755. In 1755, with his regiment, he joined Gen. Johnson’s army, and while at 
Albany he made a will leaving his estate for the erection of a school in a town to 
be located W. of Fort Mass, to be called Williamstown. Shortly after, while 
marching with 1,200 men to engage Dieskau near Lake George, his command 
was ambushed and overpowered, and Col. Williams was killed. The school was 
established in 1790, in a brick building (the present W. College), and was char-, 
tered as Williams College in 1793. Its presidents have been Dr. E. Fitch (1793- 
1815), Dr. Z. S. Moore (1815-21), Dr. E. D. Griffin (1821-36), and Mark Hopkins, 
D. D., LL. D., an able and active writer and scholar. 


Near W. College is Mills Park, with a marble shaft surmounted by a 
globe, which indicates the place where Samuel J. Mills, “ the Father of 
Foreign Missions in America,” and his companions, consecrated themselves 
to the mission-cause (1807). Mills originated the A. B. C. F. M., and the 
American Bible Society, and died at sea (after exploring Liberia for a site 
for a colony of freedmen) at the early age of 35. 

About 2 M. N. of the village is the famous Sand Spring, with exten- 




NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 157 


sive bathing-liouses. The abundant waters maintain a temperature of 
about 70°, and are beneficial in cutaneous diseases. * Greylock Hall is a 
large new hotel recently opened at this point, commanding pleasant val¬ 
ley views. A short walk to the N. leads into the rugged town of Pownal, 
in the State of Vermont. 

About 18 M. N. W. (by R. R.) is the Bennington battle-field, near Hoo- 
sac Junction, in the State of New York. 

Mt. Hopkins, S. of Williamstown, is often ascended (2,800 ft.) for the 
sake of its views of Greylock, the Green and Taconic Mts. the valleys of 
the Hoosac and Green Rivers, and the far-distant Hudson. 

The Hopper is a gulf surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of mts., gained 
by a road running S. from the colleges, which is left about 4 M. out, and 
a wood-road is followed up the glen in which flows Money Brook. The 
three walls of the Hopper are Bald Mt. (S.), Prospect Mt. (N.), and 
Greylock on the E. Far up in this stupendous gulf are the finest cascades 
in Berkshire, rarely visited and difficult of access. A noble view down 
the Hopper is obtained from Bald Mt. which is crossed in the ascent of 
Greylock, sometimes ascended on this side. 

S. Williamstown (small inn) is a* village about midway (21? M.) between 
the Greylock group on the E. and the New York Mt. of Berlin on the N. 
W. The Snow Glen (where snow remains always) and Flora’s Glen 
(where William Cullen Bryant composed “ Thanatopsis ” while a student 
at Williams College, and but 18 years old; it was first published 5 years 
after, in 1817, in the “North American Review ”) are favorite resorts near 
Williamstown. 

The Troy and Boston R. R. runs to Troy, in New York, 44 M. from “beautiful 
Williamstown on her classic heights.” 

24. Hew York to Quebec. 

Also New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield to Montreal, Quebec, and the 
Franconia Mts. Distances, New York to Quebec, 526 M. ; to Lake Memphrema- 
gog, 365 M. ; New Haven to Quebec, 453 M. ; Hartford to Quebec, 417 M. ; 
Springfield to Quebec, 391 M ; Springfield to Lake Memphremagog, 229 M. 

The line between New York and Springfield is described in Route 21. 
In the station at Springfield the traveller leaves the New York and Bos¬ 
ton train, and gets into the cars of the Conn. River R. R. Time is usually 
allowed for refreshments (small restaurant in the station; if time allows, 
the best dinner in New England may be obtained in the Massasoit House, 
alongside the station). 

The first station N. of Springfield is Chicopee (Cabot House). The 
Dwight Co’s. Cotton Mills, at this place, employ 2,000 hands, with 70,000 
spindles, and make $ 20,000,000 worth of goods yearly. The Ames 
Manufacturing Co. employ 4-500 men in making machinery, brass can¬ 
non, fine swords, and bronze statuary. The equestrian statue of Wash- 


158 Route 24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


ington, at Boston, many soldiers’ monuments, and the superb bronze 
doors of the Senate at Washington were cast Here. The doors of.the 
House of Representatives were cast at Munich, and those of the Senate 
were to have been made there, but the over-prudent Bavarians demanded 
prepayment from the U. S. Government (it was the darkest year of the 
Secession War). With a proper spirit this was refused, and the work 
was given to the Chicopee Foundry, though but little was hoped from it. 
To the surprise of all, the doors were finished admirably, and challenge 
comparison with the best of Munich work. During the Rebellion, this i 
foundry was worked night and day, and supplied the Republic with vast - 
amounts of shot and shell, and over 1,000 cannon. 

At Chicopee Falls, 2 M. E., are cotton-mills employing 1,000 hands, 
besides large factories which make farmers’ tools. 

Station, Willimansett, about 2 M. N. of which is S. Hadley (S. Hadley 
Falls Hotel), a pretty village on a hill near the river. This is the seat of 
the famous Mt. Holyoke Female Seminary, designed to give a solid, 
extensive, and well-balanced English education,” while the pupils are re¬ 
quired to do the general housework of the institution, for the sake of a 
thorough knowledge of that useful art. After leaving Willimansett, the 
line crosses the Connecticut and stops at Holyoke Station (Holyoke 
House ; Samoset House). This is a rapidly growing manufacturing place 
of 11-12,000 inhabitants, and is located at the South Hadley Falls, | 
which furnish the greatest water-power in New England. Timothy Dwight ] 
speaks of “ the. fantastic beauty, excessive force, and sublime majesty of ; 
these Falls. Until I visited this spot, I knew not that it was possible for 
water to become so beautiful an object.” Within 1^ M. the river falls 60 
ft., and opposite the town a dam has been built 30 ft. high and over 1,000 
ft. long, throwing the water into a canal system 3 M. in aggregate length, ' 
which can furnish power enough to drive 1,000,000 spindles. The origi¬ 
nal dam of 1847 was burst away before the water had filled it, and the 
present one (1849) contains 4,000,000 ft. of lumber, spiked to the ledges 
on the bottom of the river, and plated with boiler-iron. The leading 
staple of Holyoke is paper of all sorts, of which about 5,000 tons are 
made annually by 800 workmen. 750 men are engaged in the thread 
mills; 450 in making woollen cloths (beavers, doeskins, and cassimeres); 
and about 2,000 operatives make 5-6,000,000 yards of cotton cloths, 
prints, &c., yearly. 

Holyoke has about 11,000 inhabitants, and is surrounded on three sides 
by the river. It is now building a new Town House, at an expense of 
$ 170,000, and otherwise adorning its streets, which run along the E. side 
of a hill. 

At Ingle,side, M. from Holyoke, is a favorite summer-resort upon the high¬ 

lands which overlook the valley. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 2.1 159 


The railroad passes out in full view of the great dam, whose fine water¬ 
fall has been removed by the necessity of building out an inclined plane, 
to prevent the eating out of the ledges by the heavy perpendicular fall. 

After leaving Holyoke the line runs N. between the river and the long 
range of Mt. Tom (on the 1.), while lit. Holyoke is seen ahead on the r. 
The train now passes through the gap between these two mts., and Am¬ 
herst and Mt. Warner are visible on the r. front, leagues away over the 
rich valley, while Easthampton and Pomeroy’s Mt. are seen on the 1. 
The line crosses the river to Ox Bow Island, which was a peninsula until 
1840, when a rush of the swollen river cut through its isthmus. After 
crossing the rich intervales bordering on the river, the train enters 
Northampton. 

Nonotuck was bought of its Indian owners, in 1653, for 100 fathoms of wampum, 
10 coats, &c., and was named Northampton, since many of its settlers came from 
that English town. Solomon Stoddard was for 30 years pastor here, and was a 
man of grave and majestic appearance. He rode once through an ambush in the 
forest, and when the French soldiers were about to shoot him, the awe-struck In¬ 
dians stopped them, saying, “That is the Englishmen’s God.” The village was 
surrounded by a palisade and wall, which, however, was stormed in three places 
by King Philip’s Indians (1676). Three veteran companies were defending the 
place, and after a desperate conflict in the streets the assailants were driven out. 
The church was built in 1655, at a cost of £ 14, and was 26 ft. by 18. The present 
old church is the fourth on that site. The Christians were called to meeting by 
the blasts of a trumpet: 

“ Each man equipped on Sunday morn, And looked in form, as all must grant, 
With psalm-book, shot, and powder-horn, Like th' ancient true church militant.” 

McFjngal. 

In the old cemetery are buried 4 Senators of the United States, — Ashmun, Mills, 
Bates, and Strong, the latter of whom was for 11 years Gov. of Mass., and. oppos¬ 
ing the War of 1812, limited the exertions of the State to her own defence. Here 
also is buried David Brainerd, a heroic and powerful missionary to the Indians, 
author of “ Mirabilia Dei apud Indicos,” and son-in-law of Jonathan Edwards. 
Edwards was pastor here, 1727-50, and “was dismissed for insisting on a higher 
and purer standard of admission to the communion table.” The Dwights, Allens, 
and Tappans were Northampton families prolific in able men, and W. D. Whit¬ 
ney, the leading American philologist (one of the finest Sanscrit scholars in the 
world) was bom here in 1827. 

Northampton (* Fitch’s Hotel; Mansion House; Warner House) “is 
the frontispiece of the book of beauty which Nature opens wide in the 
valley of the Conn.” An English tourist (Stuart, in 1833) calls it “the 
most beautiful village in America. ” Its broad and shaded streets and 
handsome villas are placed in a rich tract of broad intervale and about 1 
M. from the river. There are a number of stores and public buildings on 
the broad street near Fitch’s Hotel (a new and extensive house), and in 
this vicinity is the brownstone building occupied by the Trustees of the 
Smith Charities. 

Oliver Smith, of Hatfield, died in 1845, leaving $370,000 for charitable objects. 
The youths and maidens and widows of the eight adjacent towns receive, under 
certain conditions, loans, dowries, and small pensions from this fund. By skill¬ 
ful management on the part of the Trustees (who are chosen by electors from the 
eight towns), the funds had increased by 1866 to $854,000, and by the terms of 


160 Route U. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Mr. Smith’s will, the whole amount (whatever it may he at that time) is to he de¬ 
voted to the establishment of an agricultural school in this town in the year 1905. 

The Farmington Canal was completed in 1831, at a cost of §600,000. It was 78 
M. long, running from Northampton to New Haven, and has heen disused since 
the railroads were huilt. 

The New Haven and Northampton Railroad (Route 15) runs hence to New 
Haven (76 M.) in 3- 3J- hours. Also to Williamsburg, 9 M. N. W. 

On a beautiful hill W. of the village, and surrounded by groves of 
forest trees, is the large and imposing * Round Ilill Water-Cure and 
Hotel (open all the year), with Turkish and chemical baths, billiards, 
bowling, a band of music, and accommodations for 200 guests. This site 
was once occupied by a famous classical school, the Massachusetts Eton, 
founded in 1823 by George Bancroft, the historian, and J. G. Coggswell, 
the author. The views thence are very extensive and pleasing. On the 
same hill is the Clarke Institution for Mutes (endowed with $300,000), 
which teaches the system of articulation in place of the sign alphabet. It 
accommodates 80-90 persons. In the same vicinity (1 M. W. of the 
village) is the * State Lunatic Asylum, , with imposing buildings which 
accommodate 350 patients. These buildings are 512 ft. long, and have 4 
acres of floors, and are under the superintendence of Dr. Pliny Earle. 

Florence is 2| M. W. of the village, and is the seat of sevei’al factories, the 
chief of which is that of the Florence Sewing-Machine Co. In their great quad¬ 
rangle of works this company makes 12-15,000 sewing-machines yearly. 

Mt. Tom (more properly called Nonotuck) is directly S. of Northampton 
(4 - 5 M. by road). It is 200 ft. higher than Mt. Holyoke, and commands a wider 
view, but is seldom visited, on account of the difficulty of its ascent. 

*Mt. Holyoke, “the gem of Mass. Mts.,” is 3 M. S. E. from North¬ 
ampton. A carriage-road winds upward to the summit, but the usual 
route is by horse-cars from the ferry to the mountain railway, up which 
passengers are drawn in small cars by a stationary engine. Upon the 
summit a small hotel was built in 1821, whose site is now occupied by 
the Prospect House. 18-20,000 persons ascend the mt. every season. 
The carriage road is | M. long, and the railway, in its 600 ft. of incline, 
rises 365 ft. perpendicular. Between the building of the railway in 1854. 
and its remodelling in 1866, 125,000 persons ascended on it. The summit 
is 1,120 ft. above the sea, and 830 ft. above the river, and is part of a 
greenstone ridge running from West Rock at New Haven to Belchertown. 
The invincible trap-rock of the mount resisted the glaciers during their 
long grinding attacks, but the great lake which, according to Indian tra¬ 
dition, filled the basin to the N., at last broke away between Nonotuck 
and Holyoke, and became a river. Western Mass, is underlaid with 
gneiss, but the Conn. Valley has a belt of coarse, new red sandstone 
10 -16 M. wide, of the Permian and Triassic systems. 

From this peak is “ the richest * * view in New England, if not in the 
U. S.” It has often been called, by distinguished visitors, the finest view 
in America. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 21 161 


On the S. are seen numerous villages in the valley, Springfield, the graceful 
sinuosities of the broad river, the distant spires of Hartford (40 M.), the Blue and 
the Lyme Mts., and East and West Rocks at New Haven (70 M.). S. W. beyond 
Mt. Tom, are glimpses of the valley of Westfield River, and on the W. Pom¬ 
eroy’s Mt. and the high hills of Hampshire and Central Berkshire are seen. N. 
W are 8,000 acres of garden-like meadows, with Northampton directly over them, 
and above the village, 42 M. away, is Greylock. “ in dim and misty grandeur.’’ 
Farther to the r. the hills of Franklin County are seen, dominated by Mts. Toby 
and Sugar Loaf, while in the far N. the blue peaks of the Green Mts. overlook all. 
The great lacustrine basin of the Conn., 20 M. by 15, is nearer, in the N., with fair 
Hadley on its “plaided meadows,” in a bend of the river, and Hatfield just across 
the river and intervales, under the shadow of Mt. Warner (to the r.). 0 M. N. E. 
is Amherst with its colleges, and beyond, “far in the N. E., rises in insulated 
grandeur the cloud-capped Monadnoek” (50 M.). In the E. Mt. Wacliusett (85 M. 
away) rises above the crowd of hills which fill the E. and S. E. 38 towns are 
seen from this lofty peak, with parts of 4 States. 

There are good views from other peaks of the Holyoke Range (which is 9 M. 
long), and at its W. end are lofty cliffs of columnar basalt which have been named 
the Titan’s Piers. 

In 1642 Capt. Holyoke, on the 1. bank, and Rowland Thomas on the r. bank, led 
exploring parties up the Conn, valley. They are said to have met near this 
mount, and to have talked across the river at Rock Ferry, when Holyoke gave his 
name to the mount near him, and Thomas gave his name to the one on his side of 
the river. The people have not assented to the self-asserting spirit shown in this 
tradition, for Mt. Holyoke is usually associated with the learned classical scholar 
of that name who was President of Harvard College, 1737-69, while the other 
name has been clipped into Mt. Tom, and its ancient Indian name, “ Nonotuck,” 
is now gaining ground in the countryside. * 

Old Hadley is 3 M. N. E. of Northampton, over the river, and lies on 
the E. of a rich and level intervale, containing 2 - 3,000 acres, which is an¬ 
nually overflowed by the river. The Connecticut here makes a curve of 
7 M. to accomplish 1 M. of direct course, and the neck of the peninsula is 
crossed by the street of Hadley. West Street was laid out before the 
settlement as 1 M. long and 20 rods wide, but by the encroachments of 
the river and the inhabitants, it has been reduced to a length of 300 rods 
and a width of about 16 rods. This wide, park-like * street is adorned 
with about 900 ancient elm-trees, 4 lines of which stretch from river to 
river, and is called “ the handsomest street by nature in New England.” 
Middle and East Sts. are also wide and shaded avenues, running N. 
and S. On the meadows near this charming rural village great quantities 
of broom-corn are raised, which, with much of the same material im¬ 
ported from the West, is made into brooms and brushes. This industry 
was commenced in 1790, and now amounts to over $200,000 a year. 

In 1650, fierce theological discussions were carried on at Hartford, and many of 
its wealthier families left the place in search of peace and good-will, and settled 
on the Indian domain of Norwottock, which they named in honor of Hadleigh, in 
Suffolk, England. In 1664 Goffe and Whalley, two generals of the Army of 
Parliament, and judges of the court which put King Charles I. to death, came here 
and lived for 15 years concealed in the pastor’s house. They had been forced to 
fly for their lives after the Restoration, and after 3£ years of hiding about New 
Haven they came to Hadley. Their presence here was only known of by three 
citizens. On Sept. 1, 1675, while the people were assembled in the church, in 
fasting and prayer, the town was attacked by swarms of Indians. After a sharp 
fight, the English gave way, when Gen. Goffe, “an ancient man with hoary locks, 
of a most venerable and dignified aspect,” appeared suddenly, commanded and 

K 



1G2 Route %4- 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


led a fresh attack by the people, and scattered the dismayed Indians in all direc¬ 
tions. He then disappeared to his hiding-place, and the astonished villagers, for 
many years, attributed their deliverance to the visit of a militant angel. Gen. 
Whalley died here, and was buried, in 1679, and Goffe died a few years later. 

In 1676 700 Indians attacked the town just after the Falls Fight, but after a 
long and bitter struggle they were repelled with severe losses. 

F. D. Huntington, Episcopal Bishop of Central New York, was a native of this 
village. Joseph Hooker, “ Fighting Joe,” was born at Hadley in 1815. He was 
distinguished at the battles of Monterey and Chapultepec, in the Mexican War, 
and bore high commands during the Secession War. At Antietam, he commanded 
the r. of the army, and afterwards, at the head of the Army of the Potomac, he 
was defeated in a long and terrible battle at Chaneellorsville, Va., losing 16,000 
men. In 1863 - 4 he did brilliant service in the battles resultant on the reoccu¬ 
pation of Georgia and Alabama by the National armies. 

Hatfield (Hatfield House) is about 5 M. from Northampton. It is a 
small and beautiful village 1^ M. N. of Old Hadley, and is noted for its 
early battles. In 1675 it was attacked by 800 Indians, but the veteran 
companies of Moseley and Pike fought desperately amid the burning 
houses, and held the town till succor came, suffering heavy losses. In 
May, 1676, 600 Indians attacked the place, and destroyed many houses, 
and in 1677 it was taken by a flotilla, Avhose men carried the riverward 
palisades, and killed and captured 24 persons. 

Easthampton (see Route 15) is 4 M*. S. W. of Northampton. Amherst (see 
Route 12) is 7 M. N. E., on the road which crosses the river on a bridge 1,080 ft. 
long, and passes through Old Hadley. 

After leaving Northampton, the Conn. River Railroad passes near the 
Great Bend of the Conn, in sight of Old Hadley (to the r.), then diverges 
from the river, which is not seen again for 30 M. Station, Hatfield, be¬ 
yond which the track runs near the base-line of the State Trigonometrical 
Survey (39,009.73 ft. long), which is laid along the plains of Hatfield and 
Whately (on the r.). Stations, N. Hatfield and Whately (Whately 
House), whose village is seen in the W. Beyond the village is the far- 
viewing Mt. Esther, and the picturesque Whately Glen, with its cascades. 

The tfain passes Sugar Loaf Mt. and stops at S. Deerfield (small hotel). 
A road leads from the village to the Mountain House, on the summit of 
the conical S. peak of Sugar Loaf Mt., which rises sheer from the 
meadows and near the river. From this point is visible the broad, rich 
valley, with its villages of Amherst, Hadley, Hatfield, Northampton, and 
several others, with Holyoke seen beyond the Titanic gateway between 
Nonotuck and Mt. Holyoke. Close at hand on the E. is Sunderland, 
under the shadow of Mt. Toby. 

The rich and peaceful valley seen from Sugar Loaf was the scene of the bloodiest 
tragedies of King Philip’s and the later Indian wars. King Philip directed the 
movements of the western Indians from his head-quarters on this peak, —so runs 
tradition. Table Rock is a beetling cliff on the E. side, beneath which is a seat 
cut in the rock, called King Philip’s Chair (see Bristol, R, I.). A sharp skirmish 
took place just S. of the Mt., in August, 1675, when 26 Indians and 10 colonists 
were killed. 

In the N. part of_S. Deerfield village is a monument on the Bloody Brook battle- 
field. Sept. 18, 1675, Capt. Lathrop and S4 men were convoying a train of grain- 






NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 1G3 


wagons from ruined Deerfield to Hadley, and as they passed over a small brook, 
they stopped to rest and pick the wild grapes which hung in clusters over its 
waters. While thus disbanded, they were suddenly attacked by 700 Indian 
warriors. Lathrop ordered his men to take refuge behind the trees and fire from 
their shelter, but they were speedily enveloped by the enemy, and but 7 men es¬ 
caped the general massacre, which included the teamster; and reapers and 76 
soldiers. Capt. Moseley, “an old Jamaica buccaneer,” marched rapidly to the 
sound of the volleys, and charged and recharged in solid company front through 
the heathen swarms. Major Treat and 100 Mohegan and Pequot Indians (allies of 
the English) also marched up from Hadley, and 96 of the hostile warriors were 
killed on the field. 

A rude monument was soon erected here, and in 1835 the people of 5 towns as¬ 
sembled and dedicated a fine marble monument, with an address by Edward 
Everett. 

“ In the country, districts that nestle in the dells seem to have been there for 
ten centuries at least; and it gives one a shock to light on such a place as Bloody 
Brook, and to be told that only 190 years ago Capt. Lathrop was slain here by 
Red Indians, with 80 youth, ‘ the flower of Essex County,’ as the old Puritan 
histories say.” (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

About 5 M. N. passing (on the r.) the monument, and then the long 
ridge of Deerfield Mt., the line approaches the Deerfield River, and stops 
at Old Deerfield (Pocomtuck House, good). This place was settled by 
men of Dedham in 1670, on the Indian domain of Pocomtuck, and was 
named from the abundance of deer found in its forests. 

Sept. 1, 1675, the village was attacked and burnt, and then abandoned. It was 
a "ter harvesting its deserted fields that such disaster befell at Bloody Brook, “ a 
choice company of young men, the very flower of Essex County, none of whome 
were ashamed to speak with the enemy in the gate.” In 1697 a fresh attack was 
made, but it was repulsed by the people, headed by their pastor, Rev. John Wil¬ 
liams. Feb. 29, 1704, while the watch was sleeping, and the snow had drifted 
over the palisades, 2 hours before daylight, the place was attacked by Major de 
Rouville, with 340 French and Indians. The walls were easily passed, and a ter¬ 
rible scene of slaughter, pillage, and conflagration ensued, which lasted for three 
hours. But one house escaped, and its loopholes were guarded by 7 bold colo¬ 
nists, whose wives were casting bullets for their guns. 47 English were killed, 
and 180 taken prisoners. A few escaped, and alarmed the lower towns, and Hat¬ 
field sent a force in pursuit, which overtook and was defeated by De Rouville on 
the same day. Mrs. Williams was murdered in the Leyden Gorge, and other 
weakly captives soon shared her fate. On the first Sunday of their march north, 
Rev. John Williams preached from the text, “ My virgins and my young men 
are gone into captivity.” Arrived in Canada, the prisoners were forced to attend 
Roman Catholic services, and Mr. Williams was offered his freedom, a pension, 
and his children, if he would join that church. He sternly refused, but 28 of his 
people chose to remain in Canada, and joined the Roman Church, “ whence kindred 
blood now rattles bad French in Canada or sputters Indian in the N. and N. W.” 
The captives were kindly treated by the French, and 60 of them were redeemed 
in 1706. The pastor’s little daughter, Eunice (7 years old), who was kept by the 
Indians, afterwards married an Indian and became a Catholic, and often in after 
years made visits to Deerfield with her tribe. Not one iota of regard for the cus¬ 
toms of civilized life, or for the tenets of the Puritan Church, remained in her 
heart. Rev. Eleazer Williams, the pretended Dauphin of France, and Bourbon 
Prince Royal, about whom (a quiet missionary among the Indians) the newspapers 
made such a great sensation, was Eunice’s grandson. 

This raid on Deerfield was a crusade, for the Mass. Puritans had captured a ship 
which was bearing a bell to the Catholic Church at St. Regis. The bell was hung 
in the Puritan meeting-house at Deerfield, and was taken thence by the invaders, 
under the care of their chaplain. It was carried to the St. Regis Church (near 
Potsdam, in N. New York), where it has sounded matins and vespers for nearly 
170 years. The same De Rouville attacked Deerfield again in 1710, but was hand¬ 
somely repulsed. 








164 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Among the natives of this town were Richard Hildreth, the gifted historian of 
the U. S. ; Edward Hitchcock, the geologist, and President of Amherst College ; 
John Williams, D. D., present Episcopal Bishop of C 01111 .; and Gen. Rufus 
Saxton. 

Just beyond Deerfield, the railroad reaches the Deerfield River, which 
it crosses on a bridge 750 ft. long, and 90 ft. above the water. This 
bridge was burnt during the draft riots (in Greenfield) in 1864, and was 
rebuilt in six weeks. 

Station, Greenfield (see Route 25). From this place the line runs N. 
E. to Bernardston, a small village under the shadow of West Mt. This 
cold and lofty towm was granted in 1736 to the veterans of the Falls 
Fight. A few min. after passing Bernardston the train comes in sight of 
the Conn. River, and reaches the station-house at S. Vernon, the terminus 
of the Conn. River Line. 

The train now passes on the rails of the Vermont Central R. R. Sta¬ 
tions, S. Vernon, Vernon, and Brattleboro, see Route 12. Beyond 
Brattleboro are the stations, Dummerston, Putney, E. Putney, and West¬ 
minster, which pertain to small hill-villages. In Putney are long sti*ata 
of roofing-slate; and the rare mineral called fluor spar (of a rich emerald 
green) is found in the E. of the town. In 1755 a strong timber fort was 
built on the Great Meadows in Putney, which protected the settlement 
until the conquest of Canada rendered it unnecessary. All the inhabitants 
lived in the fort in small houses. 

At Westminster occurred a sharp skirmish in the course of “ the contest be¬ 
tween Puritan and Patroon ” (as the struggle of Vermont against the royal edict 
which gave her to New York has beeu termed). The royal New York judges were 
to hold court here, but the citizens captured the Court-House, March 13, 1775, 
and were only dislodged by an attack at midnight. Several Vermonters were 
Avounded, two of them mortally, and one of these has inscribed on his tomb¬ 
stone : — 

“ Here William French his body lies, 

For Murder his blood for vengeance cries, 

King George the Third his Tory crew 
Tha with a bawl his head shot threw.” 

The oldest church in Vermont is in this village (1 M. S. of the station). It was 
built in 1770, and has been secularized. Across the river from Westminster is the 
old frontier town of Walpole (see Route 26). 

Station, Bellows Falls (* Island House). This was a favorite Indian 
resort because of the great numbers of salmon and shad near the rapids. 

8 rods S. of the old bridge, on the W. bank, Schoolcraft found Indian 
hieroglyphs on the rocks, which he thinks are the records of some ancient 
battle. The village was named for Col. Bellows, the founder of Walpole, 
and great-grandfather of Dr. H. W. Bellows. The river falls 42 ft. 
Avithin I? M. near the village, and forms white and impetuous rapids, 
dashing between and among the rocks which strew the river-bed. In 
Ioav water the current is compressed into a channel of 16 ft. in width, 
between tAvo large rocks. A canal \ M. long has been built around the 




NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 1G5 


falls, and on the water-power thus afforded, several factories are located. 
Opposite the falls is Mt. Kilburn, a wooded eminence which gives a pretty 
view of the river and village. The old name of this hill was Fall Mt., 
hut President Hitchcock and a large delegation of students from Amherst 
and Middlebury Colleges met here in 1856, and named it Mt. Kilburn, in 
honor of a brave frontiersman. The Fall Mt. House is situated at the 
foot of this eminence. 

Pleasant excursions are made by the summer visitors here, to Warren’s Pond, 
in Alstead, N. H. ; to the Abenaquis Mineral Springs ; and to Westminster. 

From Bellows Falls the Cheshire R. R. runs S. E. to Fitchburg and Boston (114 
M.), and the Rutland and Burlington R. R. goes to Burlington (143 M. See 
Route 26). 

The train crosses the Conn. River into the State of New Hampshire, 
and runs through the long river-town of Charlestown , with 3 pleasant 
villages and 3 inns. 

This town was settled under the authority and by the people of Massachusetts, 
in 1740, and was named Number Four. A garrisoned fort was located here, and 
between 1746 and 1760 the enemy committed many depredations in the vicinity. 
The fort was formally besieged in August, 1746, and after a successful defence, tire 
garrison and colonists abandoned the place. In 1747, Capt. Stevens reoccupied it 
with 30 men, under orders from the Mass, government. He was soon attacked by 
Debeline, a skilful partisan, with 400 French and Indians, who besieged the Fort for 
three days, exhausting every appliance of craft and tactics. Debeline threatened 
to massacre the garrison unless they surrendered, but they sent back a defiant 
answer, and a long and desperate attack followed. The heroic handful of pro¬ 
vincials multiplied themselves and repelled the attacks on every side, until the 
enemy withdrew and retreated to Canada. Capt. Stevens was highly honored by 
the people, and Commodore Sir Charles Knowles, whose ship then lay at Boston, 
sent him an elegant sword. When the tract was resettled, it was called Charles¬ 
town, in honor of Sir Charles. During the later French wars this was the prin¬ 
cipal station on the military road between the New England coast and Ticonderoga 
and Montreal. The remains of the Fort were plainly perceptible in 1810. 

Charlestown village is situated between two broad, rich meadows, and 
has some neat buildings, on a long, wide, well-shaded street. “ Its se¬ 
cluded loveliness is calculated to awaken the admiration of the traveller.” 
Across the river is the town of Springfield ( Springfield House), with 
some romantic scenery on the Black River, which falls 110 ft. in 600 ft., 
with one sheer fall of 50 ft. The deep, narrow ravines and canons cut by 
this river in the slate rocks are very picturesque. 

Station, Claremont Junction, soon after leaving which the line crosses 
Sugar River by a bridge 600 ft. long and 105 ft. above the water. The 
rich intervales of the Conn, are now crossed, with Ascutney Mt. on the 
1., and the train passes over the river on a bridge whose predecessor was 
carried away by ice in 1866. Station, Windsor (Windsor House), a pretty 
village on highlands over the river and near the foot of Ascutney. It is 
a flourishing town, with some manufactures and a large country trade. 
It has 4 churches, a bank, 2 weekly papers, a fine Government building 
used for U. S. Courts and Post Office, and the Vermont State Prison 
(which usually has 70-90 prisoners). At Windsor, during a fearful 





166 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


thunder-storm, and with the appalling news of the fall of Fort Ticonde- 
roga ringing in their ears, the deputies of the Vermont towns adopted the 
constitution of tlie s State, July 2, 1777. 

Ascutney Mt. lies S. E. of the village. A road has been constructed to the 
summit (5 M.), and a small house has been built there for a shelter. Horses and 
guides from the Windsor House. A fine view is obtained from this isolated 
peak, which is 3,320 ft. above the sea. In the W. and N. W. are Shrewsbury and 
Ivillington Peaks, near Rutland, while the Green Mt. chain runs off to the N. in 
a long line of rounded summits. The hill towns of Windham Co. are seen in the 
N., and the Conn. River and valley close at hand in the E. stretch away to the 
N. and S. through a pleasant farming country. Croydon, Sunapee, and Kearsarge 
Mts. are seen in the E., the latter being dimly outlined on the horizon. The In¬ 
dian name Ascutney means “ Three Brothers,” and is supposed to refer to three 
singular valleys which run down the W. slope of the Mt. There are marks of 
volcanic action here, and the early settlers often saw a lurid light hanging over 
the summit on winter nights. Daily stages run to Cornish and Plainfield, N. H. ; 
also to W. Windsor, Reading (12 M.), and Proctorsville (22 M.). 

Salmon P. Chase was born at Cornish in 1808. His father was a prominent 
Portland lawyer ; his uncle, Dudley Chase, was U. S. Senator, 1813 - 17, and 1825 - 
31; and his uncle, Philander Chase, was Prot.-Epis. Bishop of Ohio, 1819-31, 
and of Illinois in 1835 - 52. (These three, together with their brothers, Baruch 
and Heber Chase, were born at Cornish, and graduated from Dartmouth College.) 
He settled in Ohio about 1830 in the practice of law, became a leader in the anti¬ 
slavery movement, and was U. S. Senator, 1849 - 55, and Governor of Ohio, 1855 - 59. 
In 1861 he became Secretary of the U. S. Treasury, and rendered great service to 
the Union by his skilful financial policy during the Rebellion. He resigned in 
1864, and late in the same year was made Chief Justice of the United States. On 
May 7, 1S73, Mr. Chase died in New York City. 

Stations beyond Windsor, Ilartland, N. Harlland, and White River 
Junction (see Route 29). 

Just after leaving the Junction, the train crosses White River, and 
passes to Norwich , where a large military school called the Norwich 
University was established from 1834 to 1866, when its buildings were 
burnt and the school was removed to Northfield. The village (Union 
House) is about 1 M. W. of the station. Stages from Norwich station 
run to Hanover , about § M. S. E., across the Connecticut River. Han¬ 
over (Dartmouth House) is the seat of Dartmouth College, which ranks 
among the first of American educational institutions. 


This college was founded here in 1770 by Rev. Eleazer Wheelock, as a school 
for missionaries to the Indians, and for Christian Indians, and had at first 24 
students, domiciled in huts built of green logs, situated in the midst of a vast 
■wilderness. 44,000 acres ot land were granted to it by the State, which also raised 
a building 150 by 50 ft. for its use, while money was sent to its aid by English 
patrons. 1 he project of educating the Indians was rendered subordinate after a 
careful trial, several Masters of Arts having returned to savage life. The College 
(named lor the Earl of Dartmouth, President of its board of trustees) had 150 
tf ia ti V? y ear 1 ‘ 90* In 1871 it had 27 instructors and 382 students. Between 
1//1 and 1S6/ it graduated 3,550 men, 3 of whom have been U. S. Cabinet Ministers ; 
lo have been U S. Senators, and 61 Representatives ; 31 Judges of the U. S. and 
State Supreme Courts ; 15 Governors ; 4 Ambassadors ; 25 Presidents of Colleges ; 
104 Professors ; and 800 Clergymen. The degree of LL. D. has been conferred on 
a hmmi, and that of D. D. on 106. “Not to enlarge, with few exceptions, her 
(Daitmoutn s) influence in religion has been emphatically conservative and her 
sympathies m a national point of view eminently patriotick. She has been the 
nursery of sound divines, devoted missionaries, profound jurists, skilful physicians, 
brilliant statesmen, accomplished scholars, classical and learned writers Such 

wort A ies 1 s ^, e has given to , the Union > aud 011 these rest her claims to a 
nations gratitude.” (Chapman.) 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 167 


Among tlie most distinguished alumni of Dartmouth were John Wheelock, its 
second President, 1779-1815 ; Asa Burton ; President Porter, of Andover Semi¬ 
nary ; Heman Allen ; Gen. Ripley, the hero of Niagara and Chippewa; Alvan 
Hyde, D. D., LL. D. ; Amos Kendall ; Senator Levi Woodbury ; Daniel Poor, the 
Ceylon missionary ; Judge Joel Parker ; J. B. Felt, the annalist ; B. Greenleaf, the 
arithmetician ; T. C. Upham, D. D., the metaphysician ; Alpheus Crosby, the 
philologist ; Nathan Lord, D. D., the 6th President ; and Asa D. Smith, 11. D., 
the 7th and present President of Dartmouth ; J. H. Noyes, the founder of the 
Oneida Community ; C. E. Potter, the author ; John Lord, the historical essayist ; 
R. B. Kimball, the author ; Gen. Shepley; G. P. Marsh, the philologist and diplo¬ 
matist ; Bishops Chase aud Dorr ; George Ticknor, the historian of Spanish 
literature ; Senator Rufus Choate, the lawyer and orator ; Salmon P. Chase, the 
statesman and jurist ; and Daniel Webster. 

The famous Dartmouth College case was opened early in the present century by 
tli*e State of N. H. attempting to infringe on the vested rights of the College. 
After much litigation, the case was decided by the State Supreme Court against 
the College. It was then carried by appeal to the Supreme Court of the United 
States, where, after long arguments by the leading lawyers of America, — Daniel 
Webster defending Dartmouth, — the State judgment was reversed, and the College 
was restored to its ancient privileges and independence. 

The college fronts on a fine campus, in the centre of Hanover village, 
and on an upland plain near the Conn. River. Dartmouth Hall is the 
long central building (in which is the chapel), while in line with it are 
Wentworth and Thornton Halls. In front of the line is Reed Hall, con¬ 
taining the college library of about 40,000 volumes (difficult of access). 
These buildings are old and plain, contrasting with Culver Hall, a hand¬ 
some new structure E. of the line, in which there are fine lecture-rooms, a 
small natural history collection, and the State museum of minerals. 
Bissel Hall is a new gymnasium, fronting on the campus. N. of the 
college is the Chandler Scientific School, while the Medical College and 
the observatory are in the vicinity. An Alumni Hall is to be erected. 
The scenery about this quiet academic village is fine, embracing tall hills 
to the E. and S., and upland plains along the Conn. River. 

After leaving Norwich, the train crosses the Ompompanoosuc River, and 
stops at Pompanoosuc, whence large quantities of copperas are shipped 
away, to be made into sulphuric acid. The mines are at Copperas Hill, 
10 M. N. W., and the copperas is separated from other elements by a 
long and difficult process, and precipitated in green crystals. Nearly 400 
tons a year are converted into vitriol in chemical works near Boston, 
while a great quantity of the copperas is used as a mordant in dye- 
factories. 

Distant views of Moosilauke and Bald Mts. are obtained as the train 
approaches Thetford (two small inns). Thetford village is 1 M. W. of 
the station, and on the E. is the large farming town of Lyme, N. H., to 
which stages run 4 times daily (Perkins Plouse). 

Daily stages run N. W. to W. Fairlee (9 M.) and Vershire (15 M.) with its ex¬ 
tensive copper-mines, also to Chelsea, the shire-town. Vershire had 1,054 inhabi¬ 
tants in 1860, of whom 113 men joined the Union army. Nearly 11 per cent of 
her population was at the front. 

Station N. Thetford, whence much copper ore from Corinth is sent to 


168 Route 24. NEW YOEK TO QUEBEC. 


Baltimore (by water from Portsmouth) and smelted. Station, Fairlee 
and Orford, the former being a hilly town abounding in lakes, one of 
which is nearly 3 M. long. Pickerel are found in these waters. Just 
across the river from Fairlee is the N. H. town of Orford (stage to Orford 
Hotel), with a beautifully located village which has become a favorite 
summer-home fox lovers of tranquillity and rural life. Cube Mt. and Mt. 
Sunday are near the centre of the town, and there are several large ponds. 
Cube Mt in the W., is 2,273 ft. high, and has a chain of 5 lakes on its W. 
side. Cube Falls and the perpendicular cliffs of gray granite on Saw¬ 
yer’s Mt. are worthy of notice. • 

Station, Bradford (Trotter House), a prosperous manufacturing village 
on Wait’s River. In the N. W. is Wright’s Mt., where one Wright, who 
claimed to be a prophet, had a hermitage in a dismal rocky cleft, now 
called the Devil’s Den. The town has a scientific association, an academy, 
a weekly newspaper, and a savings-bank. 

Stages run to Corinth, Topsham (13 M. N. W.), Orange (17 M.), and Montpelier 
(30 M.); also to Washington and Barre, and to the N. H. fanning town of Pier- 
mont, beyond the Conn. River. 

Stations, S. Newbury and Newbury (the Spring Hotel, closed in 1869-72, 
will probably be reopened in 1873; Newbury House). This beautiful 
village stands on a terrace above the rich Ox Bow intervales, where a great 
bend of the river nearly insulates a tract of fertile alluvial meadow-land. 
Mt. Pulaski is near Newbury, and commands a noble view, embracing 
the fruitful and carpet-like Ox Bow meadows, the village of Haverhill, and 
the winding river, with Moosilauke in the S. E., and the Pemigewasset 
and Franconia Mts. in the E. \ M. from the Hotel are the Newbury 
Sulphur Springs (bath-houses, &c.), in a little glen near the verge of the 
intervale, and a charming twilight walk is that along the borders of these 
level meadows, with the sombre mountains beyond. 

This town was founded about 1764 by Gen. Bailey, of Newbury, Mass. During 
the Revolution a detachment of British soldiers came here to take Bailey, but a 
friend went over to the held where he was ploughing and dropped in the furrow a 
note saying, “The Philistines be upon thee, Samson ! ” On returning down the 
long furrow Bailey saw the note, took the hint, and fled to securer regions. The 
meadows of Cobs about Newbury were the home of a large tribe of Indians, who 
tilled the adjacent lands, caught salmon and trout in the rivers, and chased wild 
game through the mountains. These pleasant lands were abandoned in terror 
after Lovewell’s battle in Pequawket. 

The beautiful scenery along the Passumpsic line changes to grandeur as 
the train rims N. Station, Wells River (Coosuck House), where the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal and White Mts. R. R. touches this line on 
its W. angle (20 M. to Littleton. See Route 30). 

The Montpelier and Wells River R. R. will probably be completed from this 
point to the capital of the State (about 25 M. N. of W.) in the summer of 1S73. 
Stages now run to Ryegate, 5 M. N. W. (Blue Mountain House), a Presbyterian 
town settled in 1774 by a colony of farmers from the Scottish shires of Renfrew 
and Lanark. Blue Mt. is a high granite ridge in the N. W. The stage-road fol- 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24 . 1G9 


lows tip Wells River to Groton (small inn). In the N. W. part of Groton is Long 
Pond, 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, with a hotel (the Lake House) on its S. shore, 
which affords good facilities for boating and fishing. This pond is 1,100 ft. above 
the sea, and near it is the pretty Little Pond, 1 M. by £ M. 

Beyond Wells River, the train stops at Mclndoe's Falls, with large 
lumber-mills, and Barnet, a Scotch Presbyterian town, settled in 1775. 
Stages run to Peacharu. Soon after leaving Barnet, the line passes near 
the mouth of the Passumpsic River, where Rogers’ Rangers, returning 
from their raid on the St. Francis Indians, failed to find an expected depot 
i of provisions. Many of the famishing men died there, while others made 
a cannibal feast on the flesh of a slain Indian. In his disastrous retreat 
from St. Francis to Charlestown, Rogers lost nearly half of his command, 
and it is said that 36 of his men died in 18 hours here on the Passumpsic 
meadows. 

Just beyond Barnet (famed for its butter) begin the 15-Mile Falls on 
the Conn. River. Stations, McLeran's and Passumpsic, with falls on the 
Passumpsic River, which here rolls between black, rocky banks. Station, 
St. Johnsbury ( St. Johnsbury House , on the hill ; Avenue House, near 
the station), a busy town of nearly 5,000 inhabitants, with many neat 
villas and large manufactories. It was settled in 1786, and named in 
honor of St. John de Crevecoeur, French Consul at New York, and a bene¬ 
factor of Vermont. The Court House of Caledonia County is a fine 
building, on the hill, directly in front of which is a * Soldiers’ Monument, 
consisting of a statue of America (by Mead), on a pedestal inscribed with 
the names of 6 officers and 74 men from this town, who died in the Seces¬ 
sion War. Near the monument is the Athenceiim, with 9,000 volumes in 
a good library building. There is also a reading-room with papers and 
magazines, and an art-gallery is projected. The St. Johnsbury Academy 
is a large and well-attended school, and the other schools of the village 
occupy neat buildings. There are several churches here, the best of which 
is the Catholic Church of Our Lady of Victories. The village has also 2 
banks and 2 weekly newspapers. 

There are manufactures of mowing and threshing machines and other things, 
but the reason of being for St. Johnsbury is the extensive scale factory of E. & T. 
Fairbanks & Co. The works of this company are in a glen on Sleeper’s River, 
and occujjy 10 acres of ground. 5 - 600 men are employed and 300 varieties of 
scales are made, from the most delicate letter-scales to those huge machines which 
weigh loaded cars and canal-boats (500 tons capacity). In 1830, during the excite- 
1 ment about hemp culture, the Fairbanks brothers established a hemp-dressing 
factory, and Thaddeus invented the platform scale. It was patented in America 
and England, and up to 1861 the company sold 96,658 portable scales, 8,872 hay 
and track scales, and 94,712 counter and even balances. Since 1861 the sales have 
been much greater, proportionally, and in 1869 the yearly sales were stated as 
50,000 small scales, and several hundred hay and platform scales. 125 men are 
engaged in the Fairbanks’ service in other towns and cities ; while the works con¬ 
sume 18 tons of iron daily, in three cupola furnaces. The scales which have been 
made in large quantities for Oriental States are curious, being marked with 
Chinese and Turkish numerals, according to their peculiar systems of weights. 
The works use yearly 3,000 tons of American iron, 1,000 tons of Scotch iron, and 
3,000,000 ft. of lumber. 

8 







170 Route 2$. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


After leaving St. Jolmsbury the line passes through the town of Lyndon, 
which has three villages, and within whose borders are the Great Falls of 
the Passumpsic. The soil of the town is rich and valuable. At Lyndon- 
ville (Walker’s Hotel) are the offices and repair-shops of the Passumpsic 

R. R. 

Stages run to Sheffield, 7 M. N. W., and to Wheelock, 6 M. W. The Caledonia 
Springs (small hotel) are at the latter place. 

Station, W. Burke, before reaching which a fine view is afforded of the 
bold Burke Mt. Carriages may be taken from Trull’s Hotel (inferior) 
near the station, for * Willoughby Lake, 6 M. N. The road affords a 
continual view of the two singular mountains between which the lake is 
situated. The Willoughby Lake House was closed in 1872, but it is 
thought that it will open in the summer of 1873. This lake is one of the 
most remarkable on the continent, being situated between two immense 
mountains, whose bases meet far below its waters. The lake is 6 M. long, 
and in places 2 M. wide, while its depth is very great, and not yet known, 
a line of 100 fathoms having run out without finding bottom. 

A carriage road along the E. shore, or a boat on the quiet waters, gives 
opportunity to see the beauties of the lake and the grandeur of its sur¬ 
rounding walls. The mountain on the W. shore is called Mt. Hor, and 
is somewhat more than 1,500 ft. above the water. The E. shore mountain 
is called Mt. Willoughby, Pisgah, or Annanance, in different books and 
maps. As Mr. Eastman remarks, Annanance seems more appropriate, 
since that was the name of a brave chief of the St. Francis Indians who 
once lived here. A vast precipice of granite, 2 M. long and 600 ft. sheer 
down, runs along the side of Mount Annanance, while the long slope 
below is rocky and steep. The peak is 2,638 ft. above the lake, and 
3,800 ft. above the sea. From the hotel to the summit of Annanance 
it is a pleasant forest walk of about 2 M. A vast * view over the Conn, 
valley is obtained from this point, extending to the Franconia and 
White Mts. on the S. E., and it is said that the hotels on Mt. Washing¬ 
ton may be seen with a strong glass. On the N. W. are Owl’s Head (in 
Canada) and Jay Peak, from which the stately line of the Green Mts. runs 

S. , with the peaks of Mansfield, Camel’s Hump, and Killington (near Rut¬ 
land) all visible. From the verge of the cliffs on the W. Mt. Hor is seen 
close at hand, and the observer can look down on and far into the lake, 
so transparent are its waters. Geologists think that the chasm between 
these mountains was caused by the rush of a northern current during the 
drift period, which eat away the decomposed limestone between the two 
granite peaks. Very rare plants and flowers are found on Mt. Anna- 
nance, especially at the “ Flower Garden,” at the foot of the cliffs, 600 
ft. above the Devil’s Den, on the lakeside road. The Silver Cascade 
and the Point of Rocks are found farther out on the same road. Trout 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24- 171 


and muscalonge abound in tlie cool crystal waters of the lake. Excursions 
are made from the hotel to Burke Mt. (10 M. S.), Barton (11 M. W.), 
Plunket Falls (12 M.), and -Newark ) 6 M. S. E.), famed for its production 
of sugar from vast forests of sugar-maples. * 

Near the flag station at S. Barton the summit is passed, and the water¬ 
shed of the St. Lawrence is entered. Jay Peak is seen in the N. W. Sta¬ 
tion, Barton (Crystal Lake House), a manufacturing village in a town 
named for its first proprietor, Gen. Barton. Crystal Lake (by which 
the track passes) is a pretty sheet of water containing about 2 square 
miles. About 1| M. distant on the E. is the Flume, where a brook flows 
through a natural passage in the granite rock, 140 ft. long, 10 ft. wide, 
and 20 - 30 ft. deep. The granite walls are smooth and perpendicular. 

In 1810, the people determined to deepen Barton River by turning Long Pond 
(the source of the Lamoille) into it. They had barely completed a channel from 
Long Pond to the pond-reservoir of the Barton River, when its waters burst 
through with tremendous force, and swept down to Lake Memphremagog, wreck¬ 
ing everything in their path, and causing immense damage. The bed of Long 
Pond is now dry, and is called Runaway Pond. 

Stages run from Barton to Montpelier, 36 M. S. W. through the towns of Glover, 
Greensboro’, Hardwick, Woodbury, and Calais. Also to Craftsbury and Albany. 

Station, Barton Landing (Valley House), which was much resorted to by 
smugglers in 1812-15. Stages run 4 M. W. to Irasburgh (Irasburgh 
House, large and good), a beautiful rural village, and the shire-town of 
Orleans County. 

Stations, Coventry and Newport (^Memphremagog House, .$ 4.00 a day, 
300 guests, a large, first-class hotel on the lake shore ; Newport House ; 
Lake House). 


Lake Memphremagog. 


( 




The village of Newport is at the upper (S.) end of this lake, and is 365 M. from 
New York, 230 M. from Boston, and 164 M. from Quebec. It is built upon 
Pickerel Point, and from the edge of the village rises Prospect Hill, whence 
fine lake views are gained, and the Mts. Owl’s Head, Elephantis, Orford, 
Jay Peak, and Annanance are seen. Other excursions from Newport are to 
Clyde River Falls (2 M.), Mt. Morrill (2 M.), Bear Mt. (7 M.), and Bolton Springs 
(in Canada, 14 M.). Steamers leave every morning from the quay near the great 
hotel, for Magog, returning in the evening. 

The original Indian name of this lake was Memphremagog, or Memplowbowque 
, (names possibly used by different tribes), which is said to mean Beautiful Water. 
Some see in it a resemblance to Loch Lomond, others to Lake George, while still 
others call it the Geneva of Canada. The lake is 30 M. long and 2-4 M. wide, 
and two-thirds of it lies in Canada. The waters are cold and clear, abounding in 
trout and muscalonge, the shores are romantically uneven and rock-bound, and 
tall, wooded mountains rise on either hand. The voyage to Magog, at the N. end 
of the lake, usually takes 3-4 hours, nearly 50 M. being traversed. By leaving 
Magog on the afternoon boat (about 4.30 P. M.), a fine sunset on the mountains 
may be seen. 

The steamer passes out by Indian Point, on the E., and a distant view 
of Stanstead village is soon obtained, between the evergreen-covered 
islets known as the Turin Sisters (on the E.). Soon after Province Island 





172 Route 2J/.. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


is passed, and the steamer crosses into Canada. The boundary is marked 
by clearings in the forests on either side. Next, on the E., is the small, 
cedar-covered Tea Table Island, and beyond it the Canadian village of 
* Cedarville . Bear Mt. looms up on the W. shore, and the scattered farms 
of the town of Potton, while Fitch’s Bay stretches far in shore to the N. 
E. The round summit of Owl’s Head is now approached on the W. 
Magoon’s Point (on the E.) is near a large cavern, where the treasures of 
a cathedral are said to have been hidden. The legend is probably de¬ 
rived from the fact that Rogers’ Rangers retreated down the E. shore of 
Lake Memphremagog, after sacking and destroying the church and village 
of the St. Francis Indians. Besides the rich plate of the church, they 
secured two golden candlesticks, and a silver image weighing 10 pounds. 
The candlesticks were hidden near the lake (no mention is made of the 
disposal of the other articles), and were found in 1816. The steamer 
stops at the Mountain House, 12 M. from Newport, in a sequestered posi¬ 
tion at the foot of Owl’s Head, and near the best fishing-grounds on the 
lake. 

The mountain is ascended by a foot-path (in 2 hours) which passes through 
forests and fields, and by numerous curious rock-formations. The summit is 
2,743 ft. above the lake, and commands a broad view, including the greater part 
of the lake and its islands. On the S. is Newport village and part of the Clyde 
valley, with the nearer summits of Bear Mt. and Hawk Mt., also Jay Peak and 
part of the Missisquoi valley. In the W. are the tall foot-hills of the Green Mts., 
while Brome Lake is seen in the N. W., and far beyond it the city of Montreal is 
visible on a clear day. Nearer, in the same direction, are the Hog’s Back and 
Elephantis Mts. Orford Mt. looms at the head of the lake on the N., and in the 
N. W. are the pretty lakes of Little Magog and Massawippi. In the E. are several 
villages in Stanstead and Derby. Mt. Annanance is seen in the S. E. over Wil¬ 
loughby Lake, and, far beyond, the dim blue peaks of the White Mts. rise on the 
horizon-line. The contrast between the rugged country towards Lake Champlain 
and the vast plains to the N., ti'aversed by the glittering rivers St. Lawrence and 
St. Francis, is very great, and an element of rare beauty is added by the exten¬ 
sive view over the lake below. Amid these sublime scenes, in a glen near the 
summit, the Golden Rule Lodge of Masons, from Stanstead, celebrate the mys¬ 
teries of their order on the 24th of June of each year. 

\ M. from the Mountain House is Round Island, which resembles 
Dome Island, on Lake George, or Ellen’s Isle, on Loch Katrine. Farther 
E. is Minnow Island, near which trout abound. Skinner's Island is also 
E. of the hotel, and has on its N. W. side a cavern in the rock, 30 ft. 
long, 10 ft. wide (at the entrance), and 12-14 ft. high. The legend is 
that a celebrated smuggler named Skinner (in 1812) always eluded the 
closest pursuit of the customs officers, by disappearing near this point. 
One night, after a long chase, the officers found his boat on this island, 
and turned it adrift on the lake. Some years afterward a fisherman, 
lying under the lee of the island to escape a squall, discovered the cave, 
hidden under heavy foliage. 

“ And what do you think the fisherman found? 

Neither a golden nor a silver prize, 

But a skull with sockets where once were eyes; 





NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 173 


Also some bones of arms and thighs, 

And a vertebral column of giant size ; 

How they got there, he could n’t devise. 

For he’d only been used to commonplace graves. 

And knew naught of “ organic remains ” in caves ; 

On matters like those his wits were dull, 

So he dropped the subject as well as the skull. 

’T is needless to say 
In this later day, 

’T was the smuggler's bones in the cave that lay : 

All I ve to add is — the bones in a gra\ e 

Were placed, and the cavern was called ‘ Skinner's Cave.’ ” 

N. of this point is Long Island, with palisades on its N. W. side, and 
an immense rocking-stone called Balance Rock on the S. shore. On Mol- 
son's Island, still farther N., is the mansion of a wealthy Montreal gentle¬ 
man. On the W. shore, 1 M. above the hotel, are cliffs 700 ft. high, and 
as the steamer goes N. the sharper outlines of Owl’s Head become prom¬ 
inent. Mt. Elephantis, or Sugar Loaf, is above Owl’s Head on the W. 
shore, and is thought to resemble an elephant’s head and back. Far up 
on the W. slope of Elephantis is a beautiful mountain tarn, 2 M. long by 
J M. wide, and abounding in trout. The steamer touches at Georgeville 
(Camperdown House), a pretty village on the E. shore, where many 
Canadians pass the summer. The lake is now crossed (3 M.) to Knoxol- 
ton's Landing (16 M. from Newport), at the mouth of Sergeant’s Bay. 
This crossing has long been the main route to Montreal from the Eastern 
Townships (Stanstead County), as stages run from Knowlton’s to the rail¬ 
road station at Waterloo (20 M.). The steamer crosses the mouth of the 
Bay, passes the rocky Gibraltar Point on the 1., and leaves the more 
mountainous part of the lake, heading towards Orford Mt., which is seen 
in the N. A comparatively narrow strait is passed, and then the lake 
widens into a broad expanse, at the end of which is the village of Magog 
(Parks Plouse), a small Canadian settlement, with fine trout-fishing in the 
rapids of Magog River. The latter stream flows through Little Magog 
Lake, and empties the Memphremagog waters into the St. Francis River, 
a noble tributary of the St. Lawrence. 5 M. from Magog (carriage-road 
to the summit) is Orford Mt ., the highest peak in the Eastern Townships. 
Its view embraces Memphremagog and its mts. on the S., Shefford Mt. 
on the W., much of the valley of the St. Francis on the N. E., and the 
waters of 18 lakes. A vast pine forest’covers much of the country to the 
N. and W., and Orford Lake, at the base of the mt., has a weirdly dark 
and solitary appearance. 

Daily stages run from Magog to Sherbrooke (16 M. N. E.), an important 
station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 101 M. from Montreal and 196 M. 
from Portland. 

Newport to Quebec. 

Distance, 161 M. The time has usually been 10-12 hours, as trains on the 
Grand Trunk Railway do not make close connections with the Massawippi line at 
Sherbrooke and Richmond. 




174 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


The train crosses an arm of the lake after leaving Newport, and enters 
the rich farming town of Derby. Station, N. Derby (Derby Line Hotel), 
soon after passing which the Anglo-Canadian frontier is crossed. The 
line now enters the Eastern Townships, of which the riverward parts 
were early settled by the French, while the forest-towns were occupied by 
pioneers from New England between 1790 and 1800. 

The Canadian Hand-Book calls this “as beautiful a tract of country as perhaps 
any on the continent, botli with regard to mountain and lake scenery, beautiful 
rivers, and fertile valleys. The mountains, wooded generally from base to sum¬ 
mit, repose in majesty ; and as the mists, with which their summits are not un- 
frequently crowned, withdraw themselves in folds along their sides, they reveal still 
more of the beautiful and sublime. Chasms, ravines, and precipices are there, 
and among their solitudes sublimity reigns. Beautiful lakes lie scattered over 
the surface of the country, bordered here by gentle slopes, there by precipitous 
cliffs ; cultivated fields and wide-spread pastures, with woods interspersed ; val¬ 
leys and plains adorned with farmhouses, single or in groups, and beautiful vil¬ 
lages.” 

The first Canadian station is Stanstead Junction, whence a short branch 
line runs to Stanstead Plain (4 trains daily), a large and thriving village 
situated on fertile lowlands. 10 M. E. is Pinnacle Lake and Mountain, 
the latter being a remarkable precipitous peak which rises sheer from the 
lake. After passing some minor stations, the train reaches Massaioippi, a 
village in Hatley town, near which is the beautiful Lake Massawippi. This 
lake is 9 M. long by 1-1^ M. wide, and swarms with many kinds of fish, 
among which are maskinonge, trout, pike, pickerel, bass, and mullet. 
Blackberry Mt. on the E. shore, abounds in blackberries during their 
season. The train now follows the Massawippi River for 16 M. to its 
confluence with the St. Francis, at Lennoxville (two inns). This is the 
seat of Bishops’ College, an institute of high reputation, under the care 
of the Episcopal Church, with preparatory schools attached, and a staff of 
able professors. This college has been called “ the Eton and the Oxford 
of Young Canada.” Productive copper and lead mines are worked in the 
vicinity of Lennoxville. 

Station, Sherbrooke ( Sherbrooke House; Magog House), a manufactur¬ 
ing village prettily situated at the confluence of the Magog and St. Fran¬ 
cis Rivers. There are long rapids in the St. Francis near the village, and 
other fine scenery in the vicinity. Sherbrooke is the metropolis of the 
Eastern Townships, and is the most important station between Montreal 
and Portland. It contains the Stanstead County buildings, which are 
well situated on a commanding site. 

Stages run daily to Magog, 16 M. S. W. on Lake Memphremagog, passing Little 
Magog Lake. 

At Sherbrooke the traveller changes cars, and proceeds by the Grand Trunk 
Railway to Quebec (121 M.), or to Montreal (101 M.). See Route 40. 


BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 25. 175 


25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel. 

Via Fitchburg R. R. and Vt. and Mass. R. R., in 13G M. Stages cross the 
Hoosac Mt. to N. Adams, whence a railroad line runs to Troy and Albany. 
Saratoga is sometimes visited by this route, but several changes are necessary. 
The favorite route to Saratoga is by way of Fitchburg, Bellows Falls, Rutland, 
and Whitehall (express trains in 9-11 hrs., without change of cars). 

The train leaves the fine castellated granite station of the Fitchburg 
Railroad (PI. 1) on Causeway St., near the Warren Bridge to Charles¬ 
town, and soon crosses the tracks of the Boston and Maine, Eastem, and 
Boston and Lowell Railroads, on their long trestles over Charles River. 
Charlestown Heights on the r. and the long hills of populous Boston on 
the 1. are in sight for a few minutes, then the train runs past the stations, 
Prospect St., Somerville, Cambridge, Belmont, and Waverley. Near the 
latter station is the finest grove of oaks in New England (see Flagg’s 
“ Woods and By-ways ”). 

Waltham (Central House ; Prospect House) comes next, and is an active 
town of about 9,000 inhabitants. Here, in 1814, was erected the first large 
cotton-mill in America, and extensive mills are still in operation here. 
The Waltham Watch Company’s works are the largest in the world en¬ 
gaged in making watches ; upwards of 700,000 of these timekeepers have 
been sold in America, their reputation being very high. Every part of 
these popular and justly-celebrated watches is made by machine-work, 
while the works of Swiss watches are formed by hand. The extensive 
buildings of this company are on the banks of the Charles River. 

At Waltham, the track of the Watertown Branch rejoins the main line, after 
passing several petty stations between Waltham and its divergent point at Brick¬ 
yard Junction. Watertown is the most important of these points, while Mount 
Auburn and Fresh Pond are also frequently visited by this route. 

N. P. Banks was born at Waltham in 1816. His parents were factory-hands, 
and he himself was for some time a “ bobbin boy.” Applying himself to study, 
journalism, law, and politics, he rose rapidly, and was Member of Congress in 
1853 - 72 and 1865 - 7, Governor of Mass. 1858 - 61. During the Secession War he 
was a Maj.-Gen., and was defeated by Stonewall Jackson in the Shenandoah Valley, 
after which his army was only saved by its superior fleetness. While command¬ 
ing in Louisiana he took Opelousas and Alexandria, inflicting severe losses on the 
enemy, and then, after a long siege, the Mississippi River fortress of Port Hudson 
was surrendered to his army. In 1864 he advanced far up the Red River, but 
after several sharp, sudden attacks by the Confederate General Dick Taylor, he 
was forced to make a rapid and disastrous retreat with liis unwieldy expeditionary 
force. In the Presidential contest of 1872, he joined the Liberal party, and conse¬ 
quently failed to secure a re-election to Congress in that year. 

After leaving Waltham, Prospect Hill is seen on the r., fromAvhose sum¬ 
mit (480 ft. high) a fine view is obtained of Boston and its western suburbs. 
The line soon passes into the valley of Stony Brook, and beyond the 
station of that name, stops at Weston, 1 M. N. from the bright upland 
village of Weston. Lincoln is M. S. W. of the village in the centre of 
the town of Lincoln, near which are two large ponds well stocked with 



176 Route 25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 


fish,, The train soon gains the W. border of the forest-surrounded Walden 
Pond , on whose banks lived Thoreau (see page 28). 

At Concord Junction the Framingham and Lowell Railroad is crossed, 
and then the train passes the stations, S. Acton, W. Acton, and Littleton 
(the Indian Naslioba). From S. Acton a branch road runs to Marlboro ’ 
(13 M.), crossing the Pompascitticutt district of the Indians, and stopping 
at Maynard, Rockbottom, and Hudson. 

Beyond Littleton is Ayer Junction (formerly Groton Junction), a 
flourishing village and railroad centre. 

The Stony Brook Railroad runs to Lowell (13 M.) down the valley of the Stony 
Brook, passing through the towns of Groton, Westford, and Chelmsford. Westford 
has a quiet village situated on far-viewing heights. 

The Peterboro and Shirley Branch runs to Greenville or Mason Village (N. H.), 
passing through the towns of Groton, Townsend, and Mason. Townsend Harbor 
is a village on the Squanicook River, and Centre & W. Townsend are small villages 
of no importance. Mason Village was set off under the name of Greenville in 
July, 1872, amid general jubilations and a salute of 40 guns. It is a manufactur¬ 
ing place, situated on the Souhegan River, which has here a fall of 80 ft. in a 
distance of 80 rods. 

The Worcester and Nashua Railroad crosses the present route at Ayer 
Junction. 

After leaving Ayer Junction, the Fitchburg Railroad crosses the towns 
of Shirley, Lunenburg, and Leominster, with occasional views of Wachusett 
to the 1. as the train approaches Fitchburg. Fitchburg (American Hotel; 
Central House) is a small city (incorporated 1872) of about 12,000 inhabi¬ 
tants. It was known in the colonial days as Turkey Hills, from the great 
number of wild turkeys found here. It is a busy, plain, wide-awake place, 
which has quadrupled its population within 28 years by its encourage¬ 
ment of manufactures and by its being a centre of railroads. The city is 
built along the banks of a stream which affords a fine water-power. Many 
small factories are ranged along this stream, which is the life of Fitchburg. 
1,000 men are engaged in the manufacture of machinery and agricultural 
tools; 500 men are in the chair-making business ; 10 paper-mills, with 200 
hands, turnout $ 1,000,000 worth of goods yearly; while two or three 
cotton-mills are well worked and busy. 

The views from Rollstone Hill (the seat of large quarries) and Pearl Hill 
are of interest. In memory of her soldiers who fell in the Secession War, 
the city has erected a fine monument from designs by Milmore. It repre¬ 
sents the Goddess of Liberty, a soldier, and a sailor, all of heroic size, and 
cast in bronze at Chicopee, in this State. These statues stand on a high, 
inscribed pedestal. 

In 1793, Fitchburg maintained a semi-weekly stage to Boston. At present it 
has 7 trains a day running over 50 M. of track to Boston, by the Fitchburg Rail¬ 
road, and 4 trains daily to Boston by way of S. Framingham (58 M.). The Cheshire 
R. R. runs hence N. W. to Keene and Bellows Falls (see Route 26) ; the Vt. and 
Mass, runs W. to Hoosac Tunnel; and the Worcester and Fitchburg R. R. runs S. 
to Worcester. 


BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 25. 177 


After leaving Fitchburg, the Vt. and Mass, track is entered upon. 
Stations, W. Fitchburg and Wachusett, from which a line of stages runs 
from the trains S. to Princeton and Wachusett Mountain (Prospect 
House, Wachusett House, Mountain House). The mountain is easily as¬ 
cended from the lofty village, and presents a remarkable view from the 
ocean to the farthest Hoosac Mts., and from Monadnock in the N. over 
the extensive lines of the lower Green Mts. Princeton is a favorite 
summer-resort on account of its high location, its pure, cool air, and 
its quiet ruralness. 

Station, Westminster (Westminster Hotel), a town granted to the 
veterans of the Narragansett War, and settled as Narragansett No. 2, 
The village is 3 M. from the station on the highlands which form the 
watershed between the Connecticut and Merrimack Rivers. Station, Ash’ 
hurnham, which in the colonial time was called Dorchester Canada, hav¬ 
ing been granted to men of the former place (in 1690) for campaigning 
against the latter. This is also a hill town on the watershed highlands. 
Station, Gardner (named for an officer who fell at Bunker Hill), near a 
village whicli is extensively engaged in chair-making. The line now 
enters Miller’s River valley, and stops at Templeton- (Grove Hotel) in a 
town granted to the old veterans as Narragansett No. 6. The soil of 
Templeton is fertile, and it abounds in manufactories. Occasional fine 
views are gained from the elevated line of the track, especially of Monad¬ 
nock and other mountains in the N. The road passes through the quiet 
hill-towns of Royalston, Athol , Orange, Wendell, and Ewing, to Grout's 
Corner, where it is crossed by the New London Northern Railroad (Route 
12). At Grout’s Comer the line leaves the valley of Miller’s River and 
crosses the town of Montague to the Connecticut. This broad and beau¬ 
tiful river is crossed on an open bridge (a rare thing on the New England 
railroads), from which fine views are afforded on both sides. After pass¬ 
ing over a narrow intervale, the road crosses the Deerfield River not far 
from its junction with the Connecticut, and follows its valley up to 
Greenfield. 

Greenfield {Mansion House, American House) is a beautiful village 
situated on broad intervales near Green River, and not far from the union 
of the Deerfield and Connecticut Rivers. It bears a pleasing air of rural 
simplicity, and is a favorite summer-resort on account of its attractive 
environs. Fronting the public Square is a handsome sandstone church, 
the Town Hall, Post Office, and Court House. The soldiers’ monument 
occupies the centre of the Square. 

The Russell Manufacturing Co. has its works near this village. Here 5 - 600 
men are employed in the manufacture of table-cutlery, which is superior to that 
of Sheffield. The works turn out annually about 300,000 dozen table-knives, and 
100,000 dozen of miscellaneous cutlery, using up 500 tons of steel; 150 tons of 
cocoa and granadilla wood ; 30 tons of rosewood ; 50 tons of ebony (from Mada- 
8* b 


178 Route m. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 


gascar) ; 20 tons of elephant’s tusks ; 25 tons of emery (from Smyrna); 200 tons 
of grindstones (Nova Scotia) ; 15 tons of brass wire : 2,000 tons of coal; 25,000 
bushels of charcoal: and 1£ tons of wax. The admirable and ingenious mechan¬ 
ism used in these works is worthy of note, t here are also manufactures ol 
woollen goods, carpenters’ tools, &c., in the town. 

The Bear's Den is a dark ravine with a small cave, a short distance S. 
E. of the village, and at the S. end of Rocky Mt. The Poet's Seat is on 
Rocky Mt., and commands a pleasing view, embracing the villages of 
Greenfield and Deerfield, the fair intervales of the two rivers, and a great 
Circle of hills surrounding all. Arthur's Seat is a lofty hill S. W. of the 
village, commanding a view of the villages and rich intervales of Deerfield 
and Greenfield. 

Deerfield (see Route 24 is about 5 M. S. of Greenfield. The Coleraine 
and Shelburne Gorges are much visited, and in Leyden there is a re¬ 
markable water-worn cut in the slate-rock, 10-15 ft. wide, and 30-50 
ft. deep, known as the Leyden Gorge. Pretty cascades are found near 
this place, and formidable hills tower over it. The Coleraine Gorge is a 
deep and romantic defile cut by the waters of the North River. The 
Stillwater Road, to the S. W., over the level meadows of the Deerfield 
River, and through the ancient village of Deerfield, is a popular and 
pleasant drive. 

4-5 M. N. E. of Greenfield are Turner’s Falls. At daybreak, on a May morning 
of 1676, Capt. Turner and 180 colonial soldiers, after a long forced march by 
night, attacked a powerful force of King Philip’s insurgent Indians, who were 
encamping here and rioting on the spoils of the captured English towns. Turner 
surprised the enemy sleeping in their wigwams, and in the ensuing panic 140 of 
them sprang into their canoes, and Were carried over the Falls and lost. 100 
were shot or cut to pieces on the shore, and then Turner, having lost but one 
man, marched off. But the dispersed Indians rallied in swarms and hung on the 
line of retreat, and a rumor spread through the ranks of the colonials that King 
Philip and 1,000 men had reinforced the enemy. The command now broke up in 
panic, and Capt. Turner and 38 men were killed, besides many wounded and 
stragglers who were cut off. The Rev. Hope Atherton, who was present in full 
canonicals, was made prisoner, but the Indians were struck with such awe at his 
presence that they speedily let him go. Capt. Holyoke led the remnant of the 
force back to Hatfield. After this blow, says the olcl historian, “the enemy went 
down the wind apace.” Many years later the town of Bernardston was granted 
to the veterans of the “Falls Fight.” 

In 1792, a dam and canal (3M. long) were built here, to aid in the navigation of 
the river. In 1866, the Turner’s Falls Co. bought 700 acres near the Falls, laid 
out a city, and built a curved dam 1,000 ft. long. The fall is 36 ft., and a water¬ 
power equal to 10,000 horse-power has been developed by two canals. Several 
manufactories have already been started here, and prophecies are heard of a sec¬ 
ond Lowell. “ During high water the roar of Turner’s Falls is heard from six to 
ten miles.” Dr. Hitchcock calls this Fall a miniature Niagara. “They are by 
far the most interesting waterfalls in this State, and I think I may safely say in 
New. England.” 

After leaving Greenfield the railroad closely follows the Deerfield River, 
running far S. to flank Arthur’s Seat, which looms up on the r. The Deer¬ 
field Gorge is soon entered. “ As to the defile through which Deerfield 
River runs between Shelburne and Conway, it is so narrow that it is difficult 
even on foot, to find a passage, though full of romantic and sublime objects 


BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Route 26. 179 


to the man who has the strength and courage to pass through it.” (Dr. 
Hitchcock). The track lies through this defile, and reveals its beauties. 

Station, Shelburne Falls (Woodward’s Hotel). “ Here the river, in a 
distance of a few hundred yards, makes a descent of about 150 ft. over a 
prodigious bed of rock. The river roars through a channel which it has 
worn in the. stone, leaping in two or three distinct falls, and rushes down¬ 
ward, as from flight to flight of a broken and irregular staircase ; the 
rocks seem to have been hewn away, as when mortals make a road.” 
(Hawthorne). A large cutlery manufactory is located here, and the fa¬ 
mous Yale locks are made here. There are limestone caverns in the town. 
Leaving Bald Mt. on the r., the line soon crosses the river. Station, 
Buckland, in the town which gave birth (1797) to Mary Lyon, the .edu¬ 
cationist, and founder of Mt. Holyoke Seminary. The train now passes 
out from the defile, and runs across the long town of Charlemont (14 M.). 
Centre Charlemont (Dalrymple’s Tavern) is under the shadow of Bald Mt. 
(not the same one as at Shelburne Falls ; there are many scores of Bald 
Mts., so called, in New England). . Charlemont was a strongly fortified 
frontier-town during the first half of the 18th century. The line now 
passes Mt. Peak on the 1., crosses the river four times, and stops at Zoar, 
N. of which is the town of Rowe, with the ruins of old Fort Pelham 
(1744). After passing through some romantic glens, the line stops, at 
present, at Hoosac Tunnel. Large stages are in waiting, which carry 
passengers over the Hoosac Mt. to N. Adams. 

N. Adams to Troy, see Route 23. Troy to Saratoga, by Rensselaer and 
Saratoga R. R., see Route*53. 

26. Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

The train leaves the Fitchburg R. -R. terminal station, on Causeway 
Street, Boston, (PL 1). Boston to Fitchburg, see Route 25. The train 
passes on to the rails of the Cheshire R. R. at Fitchburg, and then runs 
by the stations of W. Fitchburg, Westminster, S. and JV. Ashburnham, 
and Winchendon. The latter is a manufacturing town on Miller’s River 
(American House). 

Fitchburg to Peterboro. 

From Winchendon the Monadnock R. R. runs N. 17 M. to Peterboro, 
N. H., passing across the lake-studded town of Rindge, the birthplace 
of Edward Payson, D. D., and Marshall P. Wilder. Station, Jaffrey , in 
the town of the same name, which has an ancient church (now secular¬ 
ized) whose frame was raised on the day of the battle of Bunker Hill 
(1775). The workmen claimed to have heard the cannonading. In the 
N. W. part of Jaffrey is Monadnock Mountain, with its smooth, round 
top rising 3,450 ft. above the sea. An extensive view is enjoyed from the 





180 Route 26. BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


summit, embracing many famous mts. on the N. and W., and the lake- 
strewn towns of Cheshire and Hillsborotlgh Counties. No less than 30 
lakes are visible, together with numerous villages, and it is said that 
Bunker Hill Monument may be seen on a clear day. A good summer 
hotel has been erected on the slope of the mt., and is much frequented by 
lovers of picturesque scenery. On the pretty Contoocoolc Lake a small 
steamer has been placed, and makes pleasant trips in summer. The lake 
is 11 M. long, and has one island of 10 acres. About 1J M. S. E. from 
Monadnock is a mineral spring containing carbonate of iron and sulphate 
of soda. 

Station, Peterboro (two inns), a pretty village with some few manufac¬ 
tures. Stages run from this point to Dublin, Keene, Wilton, Mason, and 
Harrisville. 

The train on the main line, after leaving Winchendon, passes State 
Line, and enters New Hampshire, stopping at Fitzwilliam (Monadnock 
Mt. House; Cheshire House; and others), a picturesque hill-town with 
many ponds. This town was named in 1773 for the Earl of Fitzwilliam, 
and its present industry is mainly centred on quarrying granite. Stations 
Troy (Monadnock House), a thinly settled upland town, with a stage-line 
in summer to Monadnock Mt,; Marlboro (Marlboro House), a rugged 
and unproductive town.; and Keene ( Cheshire House ; American House; 
Eagle House). Keene, the shire-town of Cheshire Co., is a beautiful vil¬ 
lage on a meadow near the Asliuelot River. It has broad and pleasant 
streets abounding in trees, and has numerous stores on Central Square, 
its large trade with the surrounding country being a constant source of 
wealth. There are here 3 banks, 7 churches, a high school, some man¬ 
ufactures, and the county buildings of Cheshire. 

The town has 6,000 inhabitants. Near S. Keene the R. R. passes over 
a fine granite viaduct 75 ft. wide and 45 ft. high. The Reaver Brook 
Falls are about 2 M. N. of the village, and are much visited. The brook 
falls over a stair-like succession of ledges 40 ft. into a deep basin which is 
a haunt of large trout. 

“Keene is a proud little spot,” which was settled under the name of Upper 
Ashuelot (“collection of many waters about 1735. In 1746 its fort was at¬ 
tacked by a large Indian force, and the villagers who were outside were cut off by 
the enemy. A reinforcement from Swanzey drove off the assailants. In 1753 the 
town was named in honor of Sir Benjamin Keene, a friend of Governor Went¬ 
worth, and at that time British minister to Spain. It was among the first to re¬ 
sist the British aggressions on the liberties of New England. 

Stages run to Chesterfield, which has a lovely lake 8 M. in circumference ; to 
Surry and Gilsum ; to Sullivan and Marlow ; to Stoddard, Roxbury, and Nelson. 

The Ashuelot R. R. runs S. W. to S. Vernon. (See Route 12.) 

Beyond Keene the main line passes the stations E. Westmoreland, West¬ 
moreland, and Walpole (Wentworth House). 

Walpole was settled in 1749-52 by John Kilbum and Col. Bellows. A strong 
fort was erected near Cold River, and in 1755 the garrison of Kilburn was attacked 




BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Route 26. 181 


by 400 Frenchmen and Indians. From noon till simset the battle was carried on, 
the little handful of heroes within keeping up an incessant fire. The women 
loaded the guns, and run the bullets, and when ammunition began to fail, picked 

I up the Indian shot which had entered the house and melted them over for their 
husbands’ guns. Several attacks on the heavy outer doors were met by deadly 
volleys, and the enemy finally grew discouraged and retired to the N. It i 3 
thought that the valley towns were saved by this brave defence. 

Henry W. Bellows, D. D., the great-grandson of Col. Bellows, was bom at 
Walpole in 1814. He has been pastor of All Souls’ Church (New York) for 35 
years, and is one of the foremost divines of the Unitarian Church. He is an 
eloquent and powerful orator,«and is a leader in social reforms and philanthropic 
movements. 

Walpole is a pleasant village near the foot of Mt. Kilbum, and on the 
verge of broad intervales. It has wide streets lined with trees, a neat 
Common, and several boarding-houses for summer guests, with whom this 
is a favorite resort. Ravine Falls, Blanchard Falls, and the Abenaquis 
Spring are near the village, while Derry Hill commands an extensive 
view, including the Green Mts., Ascutney, Greylock, Monadnock, and the 
valley of the Connecticut. 

The line now crosses the river, and stops at Bellows Falls (see page 164), 
where Route 29 crosses the present route. (Restaurant in the station.) 
Beyond Bellows Falls the line runs along Williams River valley, and soon 
begins the ascent of the E. slope of the Green Mts. Stations, Rocking¬ 
ham, Bartonsville, Chester (Chester House). From the latter station 
stages run to Windham, 10 M. S. W.; Londonderry (Green Mt. House), 
15 M. S. W. ; Weston, 12 M. W. ; and Andover, 6 M. W. 

Station, Gassetts, from which stages run to Baltimore (3 M.) and to 
Springfield (7-M.), a village at Black River Falls. Stations, Cavendish, 
and Proctorsville (Eagle Hotel), a neat village with two churches and a 
bank. There are fine cascades on Black River, in this vicinity, and 1 M. 
N. of the village is a valuable qiiarry of serpentine marble which is equal 
to the best African stone, and is largely used for decorative purposes 
in Boston and New York. 

Station, Ludlow (Ludlow House), where the line passes over the Hog¬ 
back, which is thought to have been an island in some primeval lake, long 
since drained by the break-down of the eastern serpentine ridge. Daily 
stage to Plymouth. The train now ascends heavy grades by Healdville 
to Summit, the highest point on the line, beyond which the train starts on 
a down grade which includes 1,000 ft. of descent in 18 M. Stations, Mt. 
Holly, Fj. Wallingford, and Cuttingsville (small inn), which is near 
Shrewsbury Peak, a commanding mt. 4,086 ft. high. Stations, Claren¬ 
don, N. Clarendon, and Rutland (* Bates Plouse, $2.50-3.00 ; Bardwell 
j House ; Stevens House). Rutland is a well-situated and prosperous town 
of 10,000 inhabitants, having a large country trade and being widely 
known for its marble-works. There are some fine commercial buildings, 
others pertaining to the town, and several notable churches. St. Peter’s 





182 Route 26. 


BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Catholic Church is a fine new building of stone, in the English Gothic 
style, while the Episcopal Church is a solid and massive stone structure. 
Near the twin spires which are seen on the hill is the handsome Court 
House of Rutland County, opposite which is a neat Government build- * 
ing. The town has a daily and 2 weekly papers, 7 churches, 3 banks, 
and numerous manufactories, prominent among which are the marble- 
works. The principal quarries and sawing-mills are at W. Rutland, 
whence immense quantities of white marble ale shipped to all parts of 
America and Europe. It sells at the quarries for a higher price than does 
Italian marble delivered in New York. Large gangs of saws (without 
teeth, and cutting by means of sand poured in from above) are constantly 
running, to separate the marble into slabs. 

Rutland was settled about 1770, and fortified in 1775 as a station on the great 
northern military road. In 1777, St. Clair’s routed army retreated through the 
town. 

Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from Rutland. Claren¬ 
don Springs are about 6 M. distant (stages connect with trains at W. 
Rutland station). These springs are of great efficacy, “containing in one 
gallon, or 235 inches, 46 cubic inches of carbonic acid gas, 9.63 cubic 
inches of nitrogen gas, 3 grains of carbonate of lime, and traces of other 
alkalies. ” In a sequestered location near the springs is a large hotel, which 
has been a favorite resort for many years (250 guests; $2.50 a day, 
$10- 15.00 a week). The drives in this vicinity are very pleasant, and 
Clarendon Cave is often visited “from the hotel. 

Killington Peak is 7 M. E. of Rutland (9 M. to the summit). The 
road to its foot passes over the high, cold, and sterile town of Mendon, 
with the lofty and symmetrical peak towering in advance. The ascent of 1 
Killington is very arduous, but not dangerous, and a broad and noble view 
is revealed from its summit, which is 3,924 ft. above the sea. Pico and 
Shrewsbury are other prominent peaks in this vicinity, whose tops are 
rarely visited. Excursions are also made to Sutherland Falls, 6 M. N., 
one of the prettiest waterfalls in Vermont. Near the Falls are large 
marble-quarries from one of which a statuary marble is obtained which is 
said to be as fine as that of Paros or Carrara. There is a railroad station 
close to the Falls. 

After leaving Rutland, the main line runs N. by Sutherland Falls to 
Pittsford. The village (Otter Creek House) is prettily situated, § M. E. 
of the station, near fertile intervales on Otter Creek. There are marble 
quarries in the vicinity. Station, Brandon (. Brandon House, Douglass 
House), a prosperous manufacturing village on the Neshobe River, with 
3,571 inhabitants, 5 churches, and 2 banks. In this and the village of 
Forestdale are 4 mineral paint companies, producing large quantities of 
paint from kaolin, which is mined in the vicinity. There are also marble 


BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Route 26. 183 


: quarries, producing common and fine statuary marble and lime. Vast 
quantities of bog iron ore are found, which is easily melted, and yields 45 
per cent of soft gray iron, adapted for cannon, car-wheels, and other cast¬ 
ings requiring great strength. 200 tons of manganese are sent hence to 
market, principally to Europe. In view of this mineral wealth, and also 
of the rich crops on the intervales and the abundant timber on the hills, 
Sir Charles Lyell said of Brandon, “ I have yet to see, either in Europe 
or America, a spot contairfing such a variety of unique and valuable sub¬ 
stances placed by nature in juxtaposition.” At Brandon the Howe scales 
are made. Two curious caves are in the limestone ledges M. E. of the 
village. 

Stephen A. Douglas was born at Brandon, April 23, 1813. He became a lawyer 
in the State of Illinois, and arose rapidly to high honors. He was a Congressman, 
1843-7, and from 1847 until his death in 1861 he was a U. S. Senator. He was 
candidate of the Democratic party for the Presidency in 1860, and was defeated, 
though receiving a large popular vote. He was the author of the “ Popular 
Sovereignty ” doctrine (that the people of the Territories should decide as to the 
admission of negro slavery, without the interference of Congress). He favored 
the peaceable annexation of Texas and Cuba, was actively conservative in the 
slavery question, and supported the Government against the rebellion of the 
Southern States. 

Stages run from Brandon to Sudbury, 8 M. W., and to Lake L) unmore, 9 M. N. 

From Leicester Junction a branch railroad runs W. across the farming towns of 
Whiting, Shoreham, and Orwell to Ticonderoga (17 M), Crown Point, and 
Port Henry (see Route 53). This road crosses Lake Champlain on a long bridge 
near Fort Ticonderoga. 

Station, Salisbury, 3 - 4 M. W. of which is the beautiful Lake Dun- 
more, which is about 5 M. long and is environed by hills. Its clear waters 
are 60 ft. deep, and abound in fish. Moosalamoo Peak towers on its 
shore to a height of nearly 2,000 ft. and overlooks the lake and the sur¬ 
rounding country, while there are rich lake-views from Rattlesnake Point. 
Warner’s Cave (on Moosalamoo) and the Lana Cascade, E. of the lake, 
are often visited. Lord Dunmore visited this lake (about the year 1770) 
and, wading into its crystal waters, poured a libation of wine into it, saying, 
“ Ever after, this body of water shall be called Lake Dunmore, in honor 
of the Earl of Dunmore.” The scenes of the romance, “ The Green 
Mountain Boys,” are laid in this vicinity. On the W. shore is the * Lake 
Dunmore House, which, with its cottages, can accommodate 200 guests. 

Middlebury {Addison House, 80 guests, $.10.00-12.00 a week) is a 
handsome village, situated near a considerable fall in Otter Creek. It 
has some manufactures, but its principal product is marble, of fine quality. 
The Portland (Me.) Post Office is built of this marble. Besides 4 churches 
and a bank, the village contains the Addison County Court House, and is 
the seat of Middlebury College. This institution was incorporated in 
1800, and had, in 1871, 7 instructors, 65 students, and a library of 11,000 
volumes. It has three large stone buildings on an eminence near the 
village, and is under the care of the Congregational Chirrch. The favorite 




184 Route 27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 


drives from Middlebury are to Belden's Falls (2 M.), Lake Dunmore 
(8M.), and Elgin Springs (sulphur), 16 M. 

Stages run to Cornwall (4 M.), Bridport (8 M.), and Weybridge (4 M.) ; also to 
Riptou (Bread Loaf Inn), M. E., which is under the Green Mts., and has a few 
summer visitors. 

Stations, Brookville and New Haven (New Haven Hotel), near New 
Haven River and large marble quarries. Stages run to Bristol (good inn), 
5 M. E., a pretty little hamlet on a high plateau, from which the Adiron- 
dacks and Green Mts. are seen. Stages also to Lincoln, among the mts. 

Station, Vergennes ( Stevens House ; Franklin House) the smallest city 
in the Union (1,570 inhabitants). The site was chosen by Ethan Allen, 
and is on a hill at the head of navigation on Otter Creek, 8 M. from the 
lake. It received its city charter in 1788, and was named in honor of the 
Count de Vergennes, French minister of foreign affairs, 1774- 83. Otter 
Creek has deep water, and is navigable for 300 ton vessels to the Falls at 
Vergennes, which have a descent of 37 ft., and are improved for water¬ 
power. The country in the vicinity is rich and productive, and commands 
views of the great mountain-chains on the E. and W., “ a scene of grand¬ 
eur and sublimity rarely paralleled on this side of the Atlantic.” The 
Champlain Arsenal is located here, and covers 28 acres of ground. It is 
well stored with ordnance and munitions of war belonging to the United 
States, as well as the military supplies of the State of Vermont. Com¬ 
modore MacDonough’s fleet, which won the naval victory off Plattsburg, 
was fitted out at Vergennes in 1814- 

Stages run to Addison, 6 M. S., a famous old border-town, in whose S. W. 
comer is Chimney Point, opposite Crown Point (see Route 53). It is now an 
agricultural town, widely known for its fine horses. The road to Addison passes 
through Bridport, a broad, quiet farming town. About 3 M. S. of Vergennes are 
fine cascades in Otter Creek, near which is the Elgin Spring (small hotel), con¬ 
taining sulphates of magnesia, iron, and soda, and carbonates of soda and lime. 
A few miles W. of Vergennes, on the lake shore, is the Fort Cassin House. 

Beyond Vergennes the line passes through Ferrisburgh, Charlotte, and 
Shelburne, to Burlington. These are quiet farming towns with frequent 
glimpses of Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks on the W., and the 
Green Mts. on the E. Stages run from N. Ferrisburgh to Monkton, which 
has two pretty lakes. 

Burlington, see Route 53. 

27. Rutland to Bennington. 

Via the Western Vermont or Harlem Extension R. R. in 55 M. 

Three trains daily leave the union station at Rutland, but that which leaves at 
about 9 A. M. is recommended, as the others are slow and carry freight-cars, 
occupying over 5 hours in going 55 M. 

Station, Clarendon, which is separated from the Clarendon Springs val¬ 
ley by a mountain. The line then crosses the town of Wallingford (2 


RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 


Route 27. 185 


stations) near the lofty ridge called the White Rocks. Station, Mt. Ta¬ 
bor and Danby, between two rugged liill-towns, so-named, the former of 
which has less than 300 inhabitants on 23,376 acres of land, much of 
which is on the summits of the Green Mts. 

Stations, JY. Dorset (Curtis House) and E. Dorset (E. Dorset House). 
The line runs through a valley between the Green Mts. on the E. and the 
marble hills of the Taconic system on the W. Mt. iEolus, the highest 
peak of the latter chain, has large marble quarries on its E. slope. 

Marble was first quarried here in 1785, and now there are 62 gangs of saws run¬ 
ning here and in Manchester, sawing 750,000 ft. yearly. Over 300 quarrymen are 
employed, and the Dorset marble is sent to every part of the U. S. and Canada. 
One quarry produces the Italian marble, so called from its resemblance to that of 
Carrara. The supply is inexhaustible, and the stone is found in parallel strata 
1-6 ft. thick, separated by thin seams of other rock. Sometimes 20 of these 
strata are found, one above the other. On the S. of Mt. iEolus (formerly called Dor¬ 
set Mt.) is a remarkable cave containing 5 chambers and several long passages in 
the rock. Its innermost room is 50 ft. high, and has many stalactites. 

The line now follows the valley of the Battenkill to Manchester 
(* Equinox House, open June to Dec., a large and first-class hotel; Elm 
House ; Vanderlip House). This is a quiet and beautiful village at the 
base of Mount Equinox, and is much visited in summer on account of its 
pure air, picturesque environs, and fine fishing. The village sidewalks 
are of marble from the inexhaustible quarries on the mts., and the prin¬ 
cipal buildings are Burr Seminary and the Bennington County Court 
House. Mt. JEolus is 5 M. N. and Stratton Mt. lies to the S. E., near 
which is Stratton Gap, a romantic pass which has been reproduced in one 
of Durand’s best paintings. A road has been constructed to the house on 
the summit of Mt. Equinox, which is 3,706 ft. above the sea. From this 
peak a fine * view is gained, which includes Greylock, chief of the Berk¬ 
shire Hills, on the S., and the remote Catskills on the S. W. On the S. 
W. is Saratoga, with parts of the Hudson Valley running N. to Lakes 
George and Champlain, long reaches of which are visible. Mt. Aeolus, 
Killington and Shrewsbury Peaks loom up in the N.; Ascutney is in 
the N. W., and far beyond Stratton Mt. (S. of E.) is the dim blue 
cone of Monadnock. Skinner Hollow is a deep amphitheatrical gulf on 
the S. of Equinox Mt., which has a cave so profound that snow remains 
there all the year. There are also marble quarries in the Hollow. 

The first meeting of the Vermont Council of Safety took place at Manchester, 
July 15, 1777, and ordered the assembly of the militia to meet Burgoyne, who was 
inarching on Albany. 1,400 men gathered here under Stark and Warner, and 
encamped until the Hessians advanced on Bennington, when they marched down 
and beat them. (Among the best New England historical romances are “The 
; Green Mountain Boys” and “The Rangers,” by Hon. D. P. Thompson. Their 
! scenes are laid in this part of the State during the Revolutionary era.) 

Stages run E. to the mountain-towns of Peru and Winhall. 

Station, Arlington (two inns), a diversified town in which are West and 
| Red Mts., several small caves, and a blowing spring. The State seal of 






18G Route 27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 


Vermont had its origin here. A young English lieutenant was courting 
an Arlington girl, and one day, while there, he engraved on one ot Gov. 
Chittenden’s horn-cups a picture of a cow and pine-tree and harvested 
grain, being a view from the W. window of the Governor’s house. Ira 
Allen saw this engraving, and adopted the device for the seal of the 
State. 

7 M. N. of Arlington is Sandgate Notch, a remarkable passage through the solid 
rock, 30 ft. high, 800 ft. long, and less than 12 ft. wide. This pass is used by a 
highway. Stages run from Arlington to Sandgate. 

Stations, Shaftsbury, S. Shaftsbury (stages to Glastenbury), N. Ben¬ 
nington, and Bennington (* Mount Anthony House, accommodating 200 
guests ; Stark House ; Putnam House). Bennington is a pretty village 
situated 800 ft. above the sea and overlooking the surrounding country. 
It has 4 churches, a seminary, a bank, and two weekly papers, while the 
population of the town is nearly 6,000. 1 M. from this village is Old 

Bennington Centre, of Revolutionary fame; a quiet hamlet with the 
county buildings on its main street. Here stands the old Catamount 
Tavern, whose sign was a stuffed wild-cat on a pole, grinning fiercely to¬ 
wards New York. The State Council of Safety used to meet here, and 
make plans to defend the State against the claims of New York and the 
armies of the king. Ethan Allen’s house is also preserved, and stands 
next to the Tavern. 

Mount Anthony is 2 M. by foot-path from Bennington (4J M. byroad). 
From the tower on its summit a beautiful view is afforded, including most 
of S. W. Vermont, Mt. Equinox, Mt. Aeolus, the broad valley of the 
Walloomsack, Greylock in Berkshire, and peaks of the Catskills. Pros¬ 
pect Mt. and the pickerel ponds of Woodford, in the E., are much visited. 

Stages run on the great southern highway across the State to Brattleboro. 

Bennington was settled in 1761 by Mass, people, and was named in honor of 
Benning Wentworth, Governor of N. H. For 60 years it was the most populous 
place in Vermont, of which it now is the fourth town. Soon after its settlement 
the territory now occupied by Vermont was transferred, by royal edict, from the 
jurisdiction of New Hampshire to that of New York. The titles of the settlers 
to their lands were rendered null and void, and it became evident that they must 
either repurchase, abandon, or defend them against New York and the king. The 
sturdy pioneers determined on the latter course, and their well-organized resist¬ 
ance left the territory in a state of anarchy until the outbreak of the Revolution. 
The headquarters of the anti-New-York party was at Bennington, and here, in 
1777, was established a depot of military supplies. Fort Ticonderoga was taken 
by an expedition from this place (1775), and when Burgoyne’s royal army was 
marching on Albany, he sent Col. Baume with the Brunswick Dragoons and a 
motley swarm of Canadians, Tories, and Indians, to capture Bennington. This 
force (about 600 men) met Lieut.-Col. Gregg and 200 Vermonters, and drove them 
back until Gen. Stark’s brigade moved up from Bennington (5 M. distant). Baume 
now halted and threw up entrenchments on a commanding hill, and Stark en¬ 
camped near by. After two days’ skirmishing. Stark was joined by a regiment 
from Berkshire, which, with the 3 N. H. regiments and Herrick’s Rangers, gave 
him a force of 1,800 men. On the day before the battle. Parson Allen, of Berk¬ 
shire, said to Stark, “General, the people have been too often called out to no 
purpose. If you don’t give them a chance to fight now, they ’ll never turn out 
again.” “You would n’t turnout now while iVs dark and rainy, would you ? ” 


RUTLAND TO ALBANY. 


Route 28. 187 


said Stark. “ Well, no, not just now,” answered the Parson. “ Well,” answered 
Stark, “if the Lord should once more give us sunshine, if I don’t give you fight¬ 
ing enough, I ’ll never ask you to turn out again.” On the morning of Aug. 16, 
1777, the American militia were drawn out, and three detachments were sent to 
attack the Hessian right, and right and left rear. “See there, men ! there are 
the red-coats. Before night they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow,” 
cried Stark, as he led his men to the attack. The Indians fled between the con¬ 
verging columns, and the Tories soon gave way, but the German soldiers fought 
with their swords when their ammunition had given out, and only surrendered 
when enveloped by superior numbers. The action lasted for two hours, “ like one 
continued clap of thunder,” and scarcely had the victors begun to rest when Col.. 
Breyman came near the field with a large reinforcement for Baume. Fortunately 
Warner’s Vermont regiment had just arrived on the field, and the valiant Warner 
(who had been among the foremost in the battle) led them against the enemy. 
The other corps were soon hurried to their support, and Breyman retreated at 
sunset. 237 of the enemy were killed and wounded, 700 were made prisoners, 
and 4 cannon were taken. The Americans lost about 200 (or, according to Stark’s 
report, 70 killed and wounded). The 16th of August has been observed as a holi¬ 
day at Bennington ever since the battle. 

From Bennington to New York, the trains run in 9-12 hours, by Lebanon 
Springs (see Route 23), Chatham Four Corners, Croton Falls, and White Plains. 
Trains to Albany in 4} -6 hours. 


28. Rutland to Albany. 

Via the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. in 101 M. Fare, $3.65. 

Stations, Centre Paitland (near which the river is crossed at Gookin’s 
Falls), and IF. Rutland , with its great marble-works. Stages run hence 
to Clarendon Springs (see page 182) in 4 M. ; fare, 75 c. Station, Castle ton 
(Sanford House), a pretty village on a plain near Castleton River, which 
has a State Normal School and five churches. There are marble and slate 
quarries in this vicinity, also works for preparing marbleized slate, an ex¬ 
cellent imitation of marble. 100 men are engaged here in making white 
soapstone slate-pencils, 300,000,000 of which are made yearly. At W. 
Castleton, 1,000 billiard beds and 2,000 mantels of slate are made yearly. 

Excursions may be made from Castleton to Lake Bomaseen, 4 M. N. 
W. This Lake is 8 M. long and 1 - 2| M. wide, and is lined on its W. 
shore with marble-mills and slate-quarries. 

7 M. N. of Castleton is Hubbardton, where, near the Baptist church, is an obe¬ 
lisk near a flagstaff, which marks the battle-field of July 7, 1777. As soon as the 
British knew that St. Clair had evacuated Ticonderoga, Gen. Frazer was sent in 
pursuit of him with a small force of light infantry. The American rear-guard 
was composed of 3 thin regiments, one of which retreated as soon as the action 
commenced. Frazer attacked the regiments of Warner and Francis with 700 men. 
The numbers were about equal, and the fight was long and desperate. At last 
the Baron Riedesel arrived on the field with his Brunswickers, and the American 
lines were broken. They lost 324 men, including Col. Francis, who fell at the 
head of his regiment, while the British loss was 183. The bones of the slain 
bleached on the battle-field in the deserted town for 7 years, when they were 
buried near the site of the monument. 

Rutland and Washington Line. 

Poultney ( Poultney House ; Beaman’’s) is 7 M. S. of Castleton, on the 
Rutland and Washington Railroad. The line passes through a region 


188 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


abounding in slate-quarries, the chief of which are the Eagle, Copeland, 
and Snowdon. Poultney is a handsome village, where Horace Greeley 
learned the printer’s trade, 1826-30, and Jared Sparks mastered the car¬ 
penter’s trade. At one end of the village is the large building formerly 
occupied as the Ripley Female College. This fine old building is situated 
in pleasant grounds, and is now used as a summer boarding-house (250 
guests, $10-12.00 a week). Among the principal points frequented by 
visitors are the Gorge, the Bowl, Carter’s Falls, Lake Bomaseen, on the 
N., and Lake St. Catharine (or Austin) on the S. The latter is about 6 
M. from Poultney, and is over 5 M. long. Near the foot of the lake is a 
promontory on which stands St. Catharine’s Hotel, with the quiet waters 
nearly surrounding it, and the Haystack, Moosehom, and St. Catharine 
Mts. near by. 

Middletown Springs are 8 M. E. of Poultney (stages daily, 75 c.). 
These springs are mainly impregnated with iron, and have become a very 
popular resort. The Montvert Hotel accommodates 300 guests; $3.00 a 
day, $ 15.00 a week. The Valley House is a smaller hotel in the vicinity. 

Beyond Poultney the Rutland and Washington Division runs along the border to 
Eagle Bridge and Troy, 68 M. from Poultney, stopping at the Vermont stations of 
Pawlet and Rupert. 

Beyond Castleton the next main line station is at Hydevitte (Lake 
House), at the foot of Lake Bomaseen. Station, Fairhaven (Vermont 
House), with a neat oval park, from which the streets radiate. Vast 
amounts of slate for roofing and other purposes are quarried in this town. 

Daily stages run N. to the farming towns of Westhaven and Benson (10 
M.), on the shore of Lake Champlain. Beyond Fairhaven the line reaches 
Whitehall (N. Y.), whence the Champlain steamers start for Ticonderoga, 
Burlington, and Rouse’s Point. For a description of the Lake, and of the 
railroad from Albany to Whitehall, see Route 53. 

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

Via the Boston and Lowell, Northern, and Vermont Central Railroads. Dis¬ 
tance, to Lowell, 26 M. ; to Concord, 75 M. ; to Montreal, 334 M. 

(The other routes to Montreal are (1) by way of Fitchburg and Rutland, 344 M. ; 
and (2) by way of Portland and the Grand Trunk Railway, 405 M.) 

By the Lowell route, Pullman and passenger cars run through to Montreal, 
without change, in 14-16 hours. Through express trains usually leave the Bos¬ 
ton and Lowell depot, in Boston, at 8 o’clock, A. M., and at 6 P. M., arriving in 
Montreal, respectively, at about 10 o’clock in the evening, and 10 in the morning. 
The line passes through the populous cities of Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and 
Concord, and then runs N. W. through the pleasing rural scenery of New Hamp¬ 
shire and Vermont. 

The train leaves the superb terminal depot of the Boston and Lowell 
R. R., in Boston, and crosses Charles River, with the city of Charlestown 
resting on hills to the r. After passing seven suburban stations, the train 
reaches West Medford (2 hotels), on the Mystic River, the seat of Tufts 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 189 


College. The handsome buildings of the College are on Walnut Hill, 
some distance S., and near the College Hill station. Tufts College is a 
well-conducted institution, founded in 1852, and having (in 1871) 15 
instructors and 62 students, with 10,000 volumes in the library. It is 
under the care of the Universalist Church, and its president is Dr. A. A. 
Miner, a leader in that sect. “ Meadford ” was settled about 1633, on the 
Indian lands called Missituck, and soon won a fame for its shipbuilding 
which it still preserves. 

John Brooks, who was bom here in 1752, fought through the Revolution, com¬ 
manding in succession the 19th, 8th, and 7tli Mass, regiments of the Continental 
army. He was Governor of Mass. 1816-23. 

Maria G. Brooks, born here in 1795, was called by Robert Southey “the most 
impassioned and most imaginative of all poetesses.” 

The line passes along Mystic Pond and stops at Winchester. On a hill 
near this pond, lived Nanepashemet, “the Moon-God,” an early sachem 
of the Mass. Indians. He was killed in battle about 1619, and buried in 
his fortress here. Station, Winchester, whence a branch track runs to 
Woburn (2 M.), a large village engaged in manufacturing (pianos, tan¬ 
neries, &c.). The pretty lakelet called Horn Pond is close to the village. 
Station, E. Woburn , whence a branch track runs to Stoneham, a busy 
shoemaking town, near which on the S. is the romantic Spot Pond, sur¬ 
rounded by hills, and 143 ft. above the sea, studded with islands, and 
covering 283 acres. It was found and named by Gov. Winthrop, in 1632, 
and has become a favorite resort for Bostonians. 

Stations, N. Woburn, Wilmington, Billerica. The latter station is in 
an extensive farming town. Tewksbury, 2 M. N. of the station, is the 
seat of a large institution for the State’s paupers. Shortly after leaving 
N. Billerica the line crosses the Concord River and enters Lowell. 

Lowell. 

Hotels. —There is need of a good hotel in this city. The American, City, and 
Lovejoy's are the principal houses now in the city. 

Pawtucket Falls was a favorite fishing-place of the Indians until their 
extinction, and was often visited by Eliot and Gookin. In 1826 a town 
was set off here, and named Lowell, in honor of a Newburyport gentle¬ 
man, who introduced the cotton-manufacture into the United States. 
The Pawtucket Canal extends from the head of the Falls to the Concord 
River below the city, and furnishes an immense water-power, having a 
fall of 33 ft. To obviate the trouble caused by an occasional decrease of 
water in the Merrimac River, a large canal has been built from the outlet 
of Lake Winnepesaukee (commenced in 1846). The Pawtucket Canal 
was cut late in the last century, for purposes of navigation, but did not 
pay, and was bought in 1821 by Bostonians, who established a factory 
here. There were then 12 houses here, and in 1828 the population had 


190 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


risen to 3,532. The Merrimac Mills were started in 1823, and at present 
their enormous works turn out 12,000 miles ol cotton cloth yearly. 

Beginning up-stream, the first line of factories belongs to the Lawrence 
Mills Co., while on the canal, parallel witli Suffolk St., are the Tremont 
and Suffolk Mills. Below the Lawrence Mills are the immense Merrimac 
Mills and Print Works (foot of Prince St.), which are succeeeded along 
the river-front by the Boot and the Massachusetts Mills. The Middlesex, 
Prescott, Appleton, Plamilton, and Lowell Carpet Mills are on the canal, 
S. of Merrimac St., and are best seen from the bridge on Gorham St. 

In 1871, there were at Lowell 69 mills, with a capital of $14,000,000, 
employing 9,404 women and 5,413 men, and running 570,586 spindles 
and 13,466 looms. 41,036 tons of coal, 18,200 bushels of charcoal, and 
1,855 cords of wood were used yearly for the engines (of 5,320 horse¬ 
power), and 105,776 gallons of oil, 1,000 tons of starch, 2,662 tons of 
wool, and 16,740 tons of cotton were consumed yearly. The chief annual 
products were 2,530,000 yards of woollen stuffs ; 1,924,000 yards of carpet¬ 
ing; 130,000 shawls ; 9,000,000 pairs of hose; 51,691,200 yards of cloth, 
dyed and printed ; and 122,096,000 yards of cotton fabrics. In addition to 
the steam horse-power (5,320), there is about 10,000 horse-power derived 
from the canals. Besides the long line of factories on the canal, another 
great line is built along the Concord River, which here joins the Merrimac. 

When the factory system was first inaugurated, the operatives were 
mostly Americans, but now the mills are worked almost entirely by 
Irish, Nova Scotians, and French Canadians. So, witli the 15,000 opera¬ 
tives, mostly foreign, Lowell possesses but little of the aspect of a New 
England city. The French have a large and handsome church (Catholic), 
near which is the great hospital of St. John, conducted by the Sisters of 
Charity. The city has 42,000 inhabitants, with 26 churches, 62 schools, 
about 6,000 dwelling-houses, 10 lodges of Masons, and 4 of Odd Fellows. 

Merrimac St. is the main thoroughfare of the city, and contains long 
lines of shops. On this street is the Post Office, City Hall, and a vener¬ 
able-looking Episcopal Church and rectory. On S. Common is St. John’s 
Church, also the buildings of Middlesex County (which was organized in 
1643, together with Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk Counties). On Merrimac 
St. is a large public library, and the Y. M. Christian Association has 
pleasant reading-rooms near the corner of Merrimac and Gorham Sts. 

Lowell has been visited by many of the distinguished foreigners who have trav¬ 
elled in America. Sir Charles Lyell came here, also Charles Dickens, who devoted 
a chapter (IV., American Notes) to it, and Fredrika Bremer, who speaks of the 
“glorious view from Drewcroft’s Hill on a cold winter evening, of the manufac¬ 
tories of Lowell lying below in a half-circlc, glittering with a thousand lights, like 
a magic castle on the snow-covered earth.” 

By going to the upper end of Merrimac St., and turning to the 1., one 
comes to the bridge over the Merrimac, from which a view of Pawtucket 





BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 191 


Falls and the canal entrance may be gained. On a little enrailed green 
on Merrimac St. the city has erected a monument to two of her young 
men, Ladd and Whitney, who belonged to the 6th Mass. Militia Reg., 
and were killed during the murderous attack on that corps by the roughs 
of Baltimore, April 19, 1861. Near this monument is a * bronze statue 
of Victory, by the celebrated German sculptor, Rauch, which has been 
erected as a memorial to the men of Lowell who fell in fighting against 
the Rebellion. 

After leaving Lowell, the line follows the Merrimac River to Concord. 
A seat on the r. is preferable. Stations, Middlesex , and N. Chelmsford. 
Middlesex is at the N. end of the old Middlesex Canal, running from this 
point to Boston, 27 M. It was completed in 1808, at a cost of $ 528,000, 
and had 20 locks in a fall of 136 ft.', but since the era of railroads began, 
it has been neglected, and is not used. At N. Chelmsford the Stony 
Brook Railroad comes in from Groton (Ayer) Junction. The line soon 
regains the banks of the Merrimac near Wicassic Falls, and stops at 
Tyngsboro soon after which it crosses the State line and enters New 
Hampshire. 

Nashua. 

Hotels, * Indian Head, corner Main and Pearl Sts. ; Tremont; Merrimac, oppo¬ 
site the station. 

The town of Dunstable (in which Nashua was included) was settled 
before King Philip’s War, and was bravely defended through that and 
the succeeding conflicts. So late as 1803, the present site of the city was 
a sandy plain covered with pine-trees. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. 
was chartered in 1823, and factories were erected along the canals, while 
the new village grew in importance, until in 1853 it became a city. 

Nashua is a pleasant city (10,541 inhabitants), situated on hilly ground 
at the confluence of the Merrimac and Nashua Rivers. It has 11 churches, 
6 bodies of Masons, 3 of Odd Fellows, and 1 daily and 2 weekly news¬ 
papers. The streets are broad and well-lighted, and lined with trees, 
while some of the churches and private residences are of pleasing appear¬ 
ance. “By the wondrous alchemy of skill and enterprise, out of the 
waters of the Nashua and the sands of this pine plain, from some half 
a dozen dwellings have been raised up these thronged and beautiful 
villages.” 

The water-power is taken from Mine Falls on the Nashua River, from 
which a canal has been cut 3 M. long, 60 ft. wide, and 8 ft. deep, with a 
head and fall of 36 ft. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. and other cotton 
mills have over 2,000 operatives. 110 men are engaged in making cards 
and glazed paper ; 150 men make locks ; 75 make fans; 40 make hoop- 
skirts ; 70 are engaged on soapstone work; and 160 make shuttles and 
bobbins. The Underhill Edge Tool Co. uses 100 tons of iron and steel 


192 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


annually; the Vale Mills consume 500 bales of cotton; and the immense 
Nashua Iron Works consume 3,000 tons of iron, 800 tons of steel, and 
4,000 tons of coal each year. Besides the goods already mentioned, 
Nashua produces yearly 30,000 yards of ingrain carpets, and 16,000 bed¬ 
steads. 

The station of the through line is 1 M. E. of the centre of Nashua. The Wor¬ 
cester and Nashua station is on the main street, and the Boston station is \ M. 
N. of it, in the centre of the city. 

Nashua to Wilton. 

From the latter station the Wilton Branch R. R. runs 16 M. N. W. to "Wilton. 
This line passes through a pleasant and retired hill-country, much frequented by 
city people in summer. 

Stations, S. Merrimac and Amherst. The main village of Amherst town is some 
distance N. of the station, and the popular Amherst Spring (good hotel) is about 
3 M. from the station (stages to the village and springs). The village is on a high 
plain, £ M. square, and abounds in shade-trees. 

This town was granted to Essex Co. veterans of the Narragansett War, and 
was named in 1760, in honor of Gen. Amherst, the commander in the Conquest 
of Canada. It sent 120 men to the Continental Army, although its population in 
1775 was larger than in 1870. In a small farmhouse, 5 M. from Amherst village, 
Horace Greeley was born, Feb. 3, 1811. He learned the printer’s trade in Poult- 
ney, Vt., between his 15tli and 19tli year, and soon after went to New York, where 
he started several papers (the Morning Post, New-Yorker, Jeffersonian, Log-Cabin). 
In 1S41 he founded the Neiv York Tribune, which became one of the most 
powerful and spirited of the New York newspapers, and advocated the abolition 
of slavery, the elevation of the laboring classes, and the protection (by tariff) 
of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally supported the measures of 
the Republican party from its origin until 1872 although favoring a more 
extended amnesty for the Southern States. In 1872 he joined the Liberal party, 
which seceded from the Republicans on account of dissatisfaction with President 
Grant’s administration. He was nominated as candidate for the Presidency by 
the Liberal Convention at Cincinnati, and by the Democratic Convention at Bal¬ 
timore. After a long and bitter campaign, Grant was re-elected, and soon after, 
worn out by toil, Mr. Greeley died near New York. He was eccentric in many of his 
ways, and loved a quiet, rural life, while his powerful and pungent editorials made 
him the leading journalist in America. 

Station, Milford (Union House ; Milford Springs House), a manufacturing vil¬ 
lage on the broad meadows of the Souliegan River. Stages run daily to Mount 
Vernon, with its “ beautiful prospect of towns and villages in the Merrimac and 
Souhegan valleys. Sunrise in summer brings to view a vast expanse, including 
the beautiful villages of Massachusetts ; while from the spire of the church can 
be seen the snow-white sails upon the distant ocean. The name is a fit emblem 
of the spot; for, clustering around this eminence, are numerous farms, in the mild 
seasons clad in the richest verdure.” The large summer-hotel was pax-tially 
burned in 1S72, but is in process of reconstruction. 

A daily stage runs from Milford to Francestown (small inn), the birthplace of 
Senator Levi Woodbury. The town has one mountain and two lakes, also a quarry 
of fine gray freestone. 

Station, Wilton (Whiting House), a manufacturing village in a glen on the 
Souhegan River. 2,000 gallons of milk, besides other dairy products, are sent to 
Boston daily from this town. This is a popular summer resort (2J hours from 
Boston), being rich in hill-scenery and falling waters. Barnes’ Cascade, Pack 
Monadnock Mt., and Lyndeborougli are often visited. A daily stage runs from 
Wilton to Lyndeborough (Mountain House). 

Nashua to Concord. 35 M. 

Stations (on the main line), Thornton's Ferry, Merrimac, Reed's Ferry, 
Goff's Falls, and Manchester. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 193 


Manchester. 

Hotels. Manchester House, Elm St. ; City Hotel; Stearns House ; Amoskeag 
House. 

This city was settled early in the last century by conflicting colonies of Scotch 
Presbyterians and Massachusetts Puritans. For 75 years from its settlement, 
Derryfield (as it was then called) had neither a minister nor a lawyer, nor did it 
send any of its youth to college. The large fisheries at the Falls attracted the 
settlers here. 

“ From the eels they formed their food in chief; 

And eels were called the ‘ Derryfield beef’ 1 
And the marks of eels were so plain to trace. 

That the children looked like eels in the face.” 

Manchester (23,509 inhabitants) is the most populous city in New 
Hampshire, and is built on a broad plain near the Merrimac River. Elm 
Street is its principal thoroughfare, and is 100 ft; wide and over a mile 
long. Public squares, with ponds enclosed in their limits, have been laid 
out in different parts of the city, and among the churches may be noticed 
the Unitarian, on Beech St., the Catholic and the Episcopal on Lowell 
St., and the Convent and Church of St. Ann, on Merrimac St. The City 
Library contains about 16,000 volumes, and there are 2 daily and 2 weekly 
newspapers. The compact lines of tenement-houses, near the factories, 
were built for the operatives, and are both commodious and substantial. 
The growth of this city has been very rapid, and its river-front is now 
lined with great brick factories, a striking view of which is obtained from 
the W. bank of the river (in Goffstown). 

The water-power of Manchester is furnished by the Blodget Canal, 
built in 1816 around the Amoskeag Falls on the Merrimac River. These 
S Falls have a descent of 47 feet, with rapids above, and in high water they 
afford, even now, a grand sight. The Amoskeag, Stark, and Langdon 
Mills, and the Manchester Print Works are located along the canal. The 

i Amoskeag Co. has 6 mills, with 105,000 spindles, employing 3,000 hands; 

ii and 38-40,000 bales of cotton are consumed yearly in the factories of 
the city. The Printworks have a capital of $1,800,000, and employ 

! 3,200 hands and 16 printing-machines, with 3,000 horse-power, printing 
s 20,000,000 yards of cloth yearly. The Manchester Locomotive Works 
employ 325 men, and make 50 locomotives yearly, besides much other 
» heavy work, while the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. turns out many 
I steam fire-engines. There are also made here yearly 150,000 axes ; 3,750 
| Novelty sewing-machines ; 22,000 barrels of ale; many thousand dozen 
! files; and several hundred tons of paper. 

Lake Massabesic (* Massabesic House, 100 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $ 10.00 
a week) is 4 M. E. from the city, on the Candia road. The Portsmouth 
i Railroad has a station near the hotel. The Lake is 4 M. long, and is 
| very irregular in outline, having 31 M. of shore, with some beaches of 
white sand, while numerous picturesque islets dot its surface. The Fairy 
Grotto and a curious sulphur cave (Devil’s Den) are often visited. 

9 m 


194 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


The Manchester and N. Weare R. R. runs N. W. 19 M., passing the stations, 
Bedford, Goffstown, Parker’s, Oil Mills, Raymond, and E. Weare, to N. Weare, 
in a busy manufacturing town. The Concord and Portsmouth R. R. runs from 
Manchester to Portsmouth in 18 M. ; and a railroad runs S. E. to Lawrence in 
26 M. 

After leaving Manchester, on the main line, the train passes Martin’s 
Ferry, and stops at Hookset (Ayer House; Stearns House). Just be¬ 
fore reaching the station, the Merrimac is crossed by a bridge 550 ft. long. 
This village is the seat of cotton factories and extensive brickyards (mak¬ 
ing 4,000,000 bricks a year), and derives considerable water-power from 
16 ft. falls in the river. In the W. of the town is a lofty and ragged 
pile of rocks called Pinnacle Mt., from whose summit a good view of 
the valley is gained. At its base is a deep, clear pond which has no 
visible outlet. This town is on the reservation given by Massachusetts to 
Passaconoway, the great Sachem of the Pennacooks. His son and suc¬ 
cessor, Wonnolancet, was converted by the apostle Eliot, and when King 
Philip’s ardent eloquence had persuaded the Pennacooks to enter the 
anti-English Confederation, he resigned the sachemdom, and went to 
Canada with his family. 

A branch road (over which some through trains pass) crosses the river at 
Hookset Falls, and runs through Suncook and Pembroke to Concord. Suncook 
(Suncook House) has a water-power from the falls in the Suncook River, near its 
confluence with the Merrimac. 

The Suncook Valley R. R. runs from Hookset N. E. to Pittsfield (20 M.), passing 
the stations, Suncook, Allenstown, Short Falls, Chichester, and Webster’s Mills. 

The main line passes through the town of Bow, and the W. bank of 
the river, and enters 

Concord. 

Hotels. # Eagle Hotel ; Phenix House. 

The territory now covered by Concord was granted by Massachusetts in 1725, 
and occupied soon after, the Pennacook Indians giving way. It was named Rum- 
ford in 1733, and 8 years later was confirmed as a part of New Hampshire, to the 
great regret of the settlers, who petitioned the king to give the territory back to 
Mass. At the breaking out of war with France, seven timber forts were built, 
in which the 96 men of the town, with their families, lived in state of siege. 
Several of the townsmen were killed or captured. For many years a litigation 
was carried on between the proprietors of the town of Bow and the Rumfordites, 
the former claiming that the grant from Mass, under which Rumford was settled 
was illegal and void. The N. II. courts decided that the Mass, grant was value¬ 
less, and then the vexed colonists sent two commissioners with an appeal to the 
king. He decided in favor of the Rumford people, and by an order in council 
confirmed them in their rights. As late as 1772, negroes were bought and sold 
here, and bears and wolves were very troublesome to the farmers. The name 
Concord was adopted in 1765, and in 1805 the town was made the State capital. 

Concord, the capital of the State of New Hampshire, is a handsome 
city of 12,241 inhabitants, situated on the W. side of the Merrimac River, 
equally distant from the ocean and from the Connecticut River. Main 
and State Streets run parallel with the river, and are broad and pleasant 
avenues. The abundance of shade-trees on these and the cross-streets 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 195 


gives the city a pleasant, embowered appearance. The State Capitol is a 
fine structure, fronting across a small park on Main St. It is built of 
Concord granite, and the projecting portico is sustained by eight pairs of 
coupled columns. The State Library is in a hall opening oif the first 
lobby, which is richly decorated with the colors of the N. H. regiments in 
the Secession War. The halls of the Senate and House of Representa¬ 
tives are neat and commodious. The building is surmounted by a lofty 
and graceful dome, from which a pleasant view is obtained. 

The City Hall and Court House is on Main St., N. of the Capitol, and 
is a neat brick building, surmounted by a round dome. 

The State Prison is on State St., and covers 2 acres of ground. It was 
established here in 1812, and on May 1, 1871, had 91 convicts. It is 
carried on with profit to the State, as the convicts are kept busily at 
work, so that in the year from May, 1870,-May, 1871, its cost was 
$ 17,328, and its earnings amounted to $ 22,954. 

The State Asylum for the Insane has fine buildings in the W. part of 
the city. It was founded in 1842, since which it has treated over 3,000 
patients. Its present capacity is nearly 400 patients, and many are dis¬ 
charged yearly as perfectly cured. 

Benjamin Thompson, Count Rumford, born at Woburn, Mass., 1753, was long a 
resident of Concord (then called Rumford). At the time of the Revolution 
(being then a school-teacher at Rumford), he was unjustly suspected of disloyalty 
to the American cause, and was annoyed until he took refuge in the British lines. 
He became an under-secretary in Lord Germaine’s cabinet at London, and after¬ 
wards raised the “King’s American Dragoons” in New York, with which he 
surprised and dispersed Marion’s men (1782). He was knighted by King George, 
and in 1784 became chamberlain and aid-de-camp to the Elector of Bavaria. 
Here he reorganized the army, suppressed beggary, made the Park at Munich, 
and kept the Electorate neutral during the Franco-Austrian War. He was made 
State councillor, lieut-gen., minister of war, count (taking the title from his old 
home), and head of the regency. He founded the Royal Institution at London, 
married the widow of Lavoisier, and became one of the leading scientists of 
Europe. He discovered that heat is only a mode of motion, and wrote exten¬ 
sively on light, heat, and other scientific subjects. He endowed a professorship 
in Harvard University, and passed the last 16 years of his life in scientific ex¬ 
periments. His daughter, the Countess of Rumford, lived in Concord until her 
death, in 1852. A fine bronze statue of the Count has been erected in one of the 
principal promenades of Munich (near the Hotel des Quatre Saisons). 

Abbot, Downing, & Co.’s coach and express-wagon works at Concord are the 
largest in the world, and their wagons are sent to Japan, Australia, and California, 
besides being in high repute throughout the Atlantic States. Hill’s harnesses 
(75 men in the works) are also sent to all parts of the world. The Prescott Melo- 
deons have been made here since 1837, and a furniture company uses $1,000,000 
worth of lumber yearly. 75,000 mackerel kits and 22,000 lasts are made here 
yearly. At Fisherville are large furniture factories, making 12-15,000 chamber- 
sets yearly, much of which is sent to California. Near the city are inexhaustible 
quarries of fine granite, which is sent to the Eastern cities and used in some of 
the finest of their public buildings. 

The Birchdale Springs (small hotel) are near the city, and should be visited for 
the sake of the pleasant drive. Most of the roads about Concord are level and 
smooth, and afford very interesting rides. 

A beautiful ante-colonial tradition of this locality is preserved by Whittier in 
“ The Bridal of Pennacook,” one of his longest poems. It gives a charming picture 
of the Merrimac valley centuries ago, when 


196 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


“ In their sheltered repose, locking out from the wood 
The bark-builded wigwams of Pennacook stood. 

There glided the corn-dance, the council-fire shone, 

And against the red war-post the hatchet was thrown. 

There the old smoked in silence their pipes, and the young 
To the pike and the white-perch their baited lines flung ; 
There the boy shaped his arrow, and there the shy maid 
Wove her many-hued baskets and bright wampum braid.” 


Concord to Claremont. 56J M. 

Concord and Claremont, and Sugar River Railroads. 

Soon after leaving Concord the line passes W. Concord and stops at Contoocoolt, 
whence a branch road runs up the valley of the Contoocook River to Hillsborough 
Bridge (15 M. S. E.). In this village is the mansion of Gov. Pierce, where 
Franklin Pierce was born in 1804. He practised law in Concord for some years, 
was U. S. Senator, 1837-42, and brig.-gen. in the Mexican War. At the Demo¬ 
cratic Convention of 1852 he was nominated (on the 40th ballot) for the Presidency, 
and defeated Gen. Scott, the V hig candidate, by 254 electoral votes out of 296. 
During his administration, Arizona was annexed, Kansas and Nebraska wei’e 
opened to slavery, and the Ostend Manifesto (to Spain) was issued. Mr. Pierce 
favored the pro-slavery party, and sympathized with the Secessionists In the war 
of 1861 - 5. 

From Hillsborough Bridge, stages run to the thinly-populated towns to the 
S. and W. 

Beyond Contoocook tire main line follows Warner River through the 
town of Warner, in which there are four stations. 

Station, Bradford (Bradford House, Preshy House, good), a pleasant 
village near Bradford Pond, which is 1^ M. long, and contains several 
islands. Many summer visitors stay here in the pleasant hotels, and ex¬ 
plore the mountainous district in the vicinity. Lovewell’s Mt. and 
Sunapee Mt. are near Bradford, and Mt. Kearsarge is hut 10 M. distant 
(N. E.). 5 M. from the village are the popular Bradford Springs (good 

hotel), near the lake-studded town of Washington. Stages run daily 
from Bradford to Hillsborough Bridge (10 M. S.) Between Bradford and 
Sunapee, the railroad passes through a cutting (at Newhury Summit) 
through 400 ft. of intensely hard, slag-like rock. This cutting was one 
of the most difficult and costly in the United States. It should he seen 
from the rear of the train. 

The line now passes along the S. shore of Sunapee Lake for nearly 2 M., 
with Sunapee Mt. on the 1. Station, Sunapee, N. of which is the village 
of Sunapee Harbor (Young’s Lake House). Lake Sunapee is a beautiful 
sheet of water 9 M. long, and averaging M. wide. It abounds in fish, 
and is surrounded by romantic scenery. The adjacent towns have many 
sequestered lakelets, and from Sunapee Mt. is gained a pretty view of the 
lake and hill-country, with Mt. Kearsarge to the E. 

Station, Newport (Newport House; Phenix House), the shire-town of 
Sullivan Co., a pleasant village enwalled by hills, and situated on the 
Sugar River. Several small mountains are situated in this town, and there 
are romantic glens along the Sugar River and its branches. Sunapee 
Lake is 6 M. distant, and Croydon Mt., the highest summit in the county, 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29+ 197 


is 9 - 10 M. N. in the bleak and granite-strewn highland town of Croydon. 
Beyond Newport the line follows the impetuous Sugar River through its 
glens and gorges to Claremont ( Tremont House ; Sullivan House). This 
town was settled in 1767 by Connecticut men, and was named for Lord 
Clive’s summer mansion. There is much rich alluvial land in the town, 
and the valley is bounded by a great range of hills. Claremont village is 
at the rapids on Sugar River, where a fall of 150 ft. in less than a mile 
gives a great water-power. The Monadnock Mills, the Sugar River Paper 
Mills, the Claremont Manufacturing Co., the Claremont Linen Co., and 
other corporations have their works here. Immense quantities of rags are 
consumed in the manufacture of paper, 500 tons of which are turned out 
yearly. Over 3,500,000 yards of cotton cloths, 70,000 yards of doeskins, 
70,000 yards of flannels, are made here yearly. Claremont village has 5 
churches and a fine high school, which was endowed by Paran Stevens, 
the American hotel-king. Flat Rock, Twist Back, and Bible Hill are 
visited by those who summer here, while from Green Mt. a fine view of 
the Conn, valley is enjoyed. Ascutney is 10 M. N. 

2 M. from Claremont the railroad connects with the Vermont Central, 
56^ M. from Concord (see Route 24). 

The Boston, Concord, and Montreal and White Mountains R. R. runs N. from 
Concord (see Route 30). A railroad is being built to Rochester, 40 M. E. of Con¬ 
cord. From Concord to Portsmouth, see Route 37. 

The train on the Montreal line now passes on the rails of the Northern 
(N. H.) R. R., and runs N. from Concord on the r. bank of the Merrimac. 
Just after passing the manufacturing village of Fisherville, at the con¬ 
fluence of the Merrimac and Contoocook Rivers, the train crosses a bridge 
to Duston’s Island, and thence by another bridge to the shore. On this 
island Mrs. Duston, of Haverhill, killed her Indian captors and escaped. 
The line now runs along the broad intervales of Boscawen (two stations). 

In this town were born C. G. Greene, who founded the “ Boston Post ” in 1831 ; 
W. P. Fessenden, the eminent and powerful U. S. Senator from Maine (1854-69); 
and John A. Dix, an officer in the army, 1812-28, U. S. Senator from New York, 
1845-9, Major-Gen. in the army which crushed the Rebellion of 1861-5, and 
Minister to France, 1867-9. He was nominated as candidate for Gov. of New 
York by the Free Soil Democrats in 1848, but was defeated, and in 1S72 he was 
elected Governor, which office he now occupies. 

Stations, Webster Place and Franklin (Webster House ; Franklin 
House). 2 M. S. W. of Franklin village Daniel Webster was born, in 
1782. The family moved to a new home near Webster Place, and 
he afterwards bought this latter estate, and used to retire there to rest. 
Franklin village is near the confluence of the Winnepesaukee and Pemi- 
gewasset Rivers, which form the Merrimac. It is a thriving mechani¬ 
cal village, situated in the valley below the railroad, and makes yearly 
150,000 pairs of socks, 120*000 yards of flannel, and 600 tons of paper. 


198 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


A branch road runs from this point up the Pemigewasset valley 18 M. 
to Bristol. Near the station at Hill Village (Seriatim House) Periwig 
Mt. is seen on the 1. Bristol (Bristol House) is a. pretty village sur¬ 
rounded by hills, at the confluence of the Newfound and the Pemigewasset 
Rivers. In the last 80 rods of its course the Newfound River falls 100 ft., 
affording a good water-power. About 2 M. N. of Bristol is the beautiful 
Newfound Lake, 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide. Sugar Loaf Mt. is on the 
W. shore, and Crosby Mt. is on the E. A daily stage runs from Bristol, 
on a road which gives frequent glimpses of the lake, to Hebron (Union 
House), near its N. end. 

After leaving Franklin, the main line passes Webster Pond and the 
bleak and precipitous range of Ragged Mt. on the r., and stops at the 
quiet little village of E. Andover (Lake House), near its long, bright lake. 
The next station is Potter Place (Kearsarge House), named for the magician 
Potter. Stages run from this station to Mount Kearsarge (4 M. S.), an 
isolated peak, with a rocky summit 2,461 ft. above the sea. It affprds a 
noble * view in a clear day, including, on the W., Sunapee and Lovewell’s 
Mt., and the blue Sunapee Lake, and Croydon and Ascutney, with the 
vast range of the Green Mts. closing the horizon behind them. In the N. 
is Cardigan Mt., with the Pemigewasset Mts. in the distance, and swing¬ 
ing around to the r. are the Franconia and the White Mts., with Lake 
Winnepesaukee in the N. E. In the nearer E. is the thronged and pros¬ 
perous valley of the Merrimac, while countless villages dot the landscape 
on every side. Far up on th»e sloping side of the Mt. is the Winslow 
House, a far-viewing summer-hotel. 

The American frigate “ Kearsarge.” which sank the rebel cruiser “ Alabama ” 
off Cherbourg in 1864, was built on the N. H. coast, and named for this mountain. 
Her captain was John A. Winslow, in whose honor the hotel is named. 

Stations, W. Andover, S. Banbury, and Grafton (Pleasant Valley 
House). Grafton is S. of Cardigan Mt., and at Glass Hill great quanti¬ 
ties of mica are mined. The Pinnacle, on this hill, has a sharp precipice 
150 ft. high on its N. side. Beyond Grafton Centre the line passes Ising- 
glass Mt. and Tewksbury Pond on the 1., and stops at Canaan (two small 
inns in the town). In the 43 M. between Concord and Grafton the rail¬ 
way has ascended over 800 ft. It now takes a slight down grade, follow¬ 
ing the valley of the Mascomy to the Conn. River. The pretty village of 
Canaan Street lies on the shore of Heart Pond, a lakelet which is sur¬ 
rounded by a naturally formed dike of earth. From Canaan a much- 
travelled highway runs N. across Dorchester to W. Rumney on the B. C. 
& M. R. R. 

The line now enters Enfield, and skirts Mascomy Lake (or Enfield 
Bond), a beautiful sheet of water 4 M. long, on whose S. W. shore is a 
community of Shakers. These industrious people furnish much fine wool 




BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 199 


to the market, also wooden-ware and garden seeds. In this town are the 
Granite State and Mount Calm Hotels, with some quiet and romantic 
scenery around Crystal Lake and Mount Calm. 

Stations, E. Lebanon and Lebanon (Hamilton House), a manufacturing 
village on an elevated plain near the Falls on the Mascomy (Nov-Anglice 
for the Indian Mascoma). Elastic sponge, scythes, flour, and machines 
are made here. Station, IF. Lebanon (small hotel), the seat of Tilden 
Ladies’ Seminary, whose fine buildings are seen on a commanding hill to 
the 1. The line now crosses the Connecticut River on an open bridge, 
affording good views up and down stream, and stops at White River 
Junction {Junction House, good). This is an important point in the 
northern railway systems, the roads which converge here being the 
Northern (N. H.) R. R., the southern and central divisions of the Ver¬ 
mont Central R. R., and the Connecticut and Passumpsic and Massawippi 
Valley R. R. By the nearest routes this Junction is distant from Boston 
142 ]\f.; from New York, 260 M.; from Concord, 69 M.; from Spring- 
field, 124 M.; from Burlington, Vt., 104 M.; from Montreal, 184 M.; 
from Quebec, 266 M. (These figures are from the Official Guide, pub¬ 
lished at Philadelphia. Of the seven other books which allude to the 
subject no two agree.) 

There is a good restaurant in the station, and trains usually stop long 
enough for a dinner to be obtained. The train passes now on to the rails 
of the Vermont Central R. R., which runs through a pleasant rural dis¬ 
trict, and achieves the passage of the Green Mts. by some fine engineer¬ 
ing works. The picturesque White River is followed for 25 M. Stations, 
White River Village (on the r.) and Woodstock, whence a daily stage 
runs to Bridgewater, 15 M. S. E., the road passing up the valley of the 
Otta Quechee River. Woodstock village (Eagle Hotel), the shire town of 
Windsor Co., is on this road, 10 M. from the railway, and is a beautiful 
rural hamlet with an elm-adorned park in the valley of the Otta Quechee. 
From Mt. Tom (near the village) a pleasing view is obtained down the 
long valley of the river. The village has two weekly journals, a bank, 
and a large country trade, besides some manufactures. 

George P. Marsh, U. S. Minister to Turkey, 1849-53, and to Italy, 1861-73, 
was born here in 1801. He is distinguished as a philologist, in connection with 
the Norse language. Hiram Powers was bom here in 1805. He was a farmer’s 
son, and after many vicissitudes he learned the art of modelling in plaster, and 
opened a studio in Florence about 1837. Since then he has executed some of the 
finest sculptures of modern times. His “Eve” was highly commended by 
Thorwaldsen, and the “Greek Slave” was a noble work, of which copies have 
been multiplied. “II Penseroso,” “California,” “America,” “Proserpine,” 
and numerous other renowned works, including portrait-statues, have given him 
the highest rank among sculptors. 

Beyond Woodstock station the line crosses the crystal-clear river, and 
passes through the pretty scenery about W. Hartford to Sharon station. 
The village is seen high up on the opposite shore. 



200 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


In 1805, Joseph Smith, the founder of Mormonism, was born at Sharon. In 
1830 he published (at Palmyra, N. Y.) the Book of Mormon, which he claimed to 
have translated from metallic plates found by him while under the guidance of 
angels. He went West with his converts, and founded Nauvoo, in Illinois, where 
he exercised despotic authority until 1844, when the wrath of the “Gentiles” in 
the neighboring towns was aroused by his unjust acts. He was imprisoned at 
Carthage, and soon after the jail was stormed by a mob, and he was killed. Brig¬ 
ham Young succeeded him as “President of the Church,” and still maintains the 
title. (Rev. Solomon Spalding, of Conn., wrote a romance, “The Manuscript 
Found ” (in 1809). He allowed Sidney Rigdon and others to read his MS., which 
was soon after stolen from his widow, and those who had read the romance after¬ 
ward declared that the Mormon Bible was but a corrupt version of it. Rigdon 
became a prominent Mormon). 


Station, X Royalton (S. Royalton House, good), with the station on 
one side of its main square, on which front the hotel, church, and stores. 
The river is now crossed by a bridge 600 ft. long, and the train stops at 
Royalton, where occurred, in October, 1780, the last Indian attack on 
New England. The attack was made by 210 Indians, who plundered and 
burnt the village (and also Sharon), killing and capturing 27 of its 
people. 


Daily stages N. to Chelsea (Orange Co. House), the shire-town of Orange County, 
passing through Tunbridge (13 M.). Also N. IV. through E. Bethel and E. Ran¬ 
dolph, to E. Brookfield (16 M.). 


Station, Bethel (Bethel House), a busy manufacturing village, in a glen 
among high hills. Daily stages to Barnard (Silver Lake House), 8 M. 
distant, and to Woodstock. Also to Stockbridge (10 M.), Pittsfield (13 
M.), Rochester (17 M.), and Hancock, four thinly populated towns (with 
small inns), under the shadow of the Green Mts. 

Station, Randolph (Cottage House ; Chadwick House), a busy village 
on the third branch of White River, which the railroad follows from 
Bethel to Roxbury. Stages run to Chelsea, Brookfield, and Randolph 
Centre (3 M. N. E.). The country now grows wilder and more thinly 
inhabited. Station, Braintree, a rude village surrounded by rugged hills. 
To the W. is Granville, with a road crossing the mountain-pass, 2,340 ft. 
above the sea. At Roxbury station (Summit House), the train reaches 
the summit of the pass, 1,000 ft. above the sea. Near the village are 
inexhaustible quarries of the best verd-antique marble. Crossing a 
bridge 400 ft. long and 70 ft. high, the train passes on to Northfield 
(Northfield House), in a populous town which has several quarries of 
dark blue slate. The so-called Norwich University (Yt. Military Insti¬ 
tute) is situated here, in large buildings on a hill to the r. of the-track. 

10 M. from Northfield is Montpelier Junction, whence a short branch 
road diverges to Montpelier (Pavilion Hotel, opposite the station, a good 
house and moderate charges ; Bishop’s Hotel). Montpelier, the capital 
of the State of Vermont, is a beautiful village of about 3,000 inhabi¬ 
tants. It is situated on a plain near the Winooski River, and is sur¬ 
rounded by a highly cultivated hill-country. 10 M. to the S. W. is the * 




BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 201 


v geographical centre of the State. The village is compactly built, and 
has 2 banks, 3 insurance cos. (the Vt. Mutual has $ 37,000,000 of 
risks), 4 weekly newspapers, and 7 churches, one-of which is a noble 
piece of architecture. There are several flour-mills, lumber-mills, and 
tanneries, besides which the village has an extensive country trade. 
The * State House is a noble edifice of light-colored granite, on the 
site of the old State House, which was burnt in 1857. It stands on a 
slight eminence approached from a verdant Common by granite steps in 
terraces. The portico is supported by six massive fluted Doric columns, 
and under it stands a fine statue in Vermont marble of Vermont’s hero, 
Ethan Allen. It was executed by Larkin G-. Mead, of Brattleboro’ (now 
living in Italy). 

Ethan Allen was bom at Litchfield, Conn., in 1737. He moved to Vermont 
in 1766, and was outlawed by New York for his bold and defiant action in the 
border fends. In 1775 he took Fort Ticonderoga from the British. Later in the 
year he attacked Montreal with 110 men, and was captured, with his whole com¬ 
mand. He was confined in Pendennis Castle, in England, for a short time, but 
was exchanged in 1778, and took command of the Vermont militia. A royal de¬ 
cree of 1764 had constituted the Connecticut River the E. boundary of New 
York (N. of Mass.), and Mass, and N. H. also claimed parts of its territory. But a 
convention at Westminster, in 1777, declared Vermont a free State. The Conti¬ 
nental Congress would not ratify this voice of the people, and all its troops were 
withdrawn from the territory. Vermont, thus left alone, was unable to resist at¬ 
tacks from the British in the N., and Allen skilfully conducted feigned negotia¬ 
tions with the royal generals, looking towards annexation to Canada, and secur¬ 
ing neutrality for his State. It was only in 1791, after 26 years of controversy, 
that Vermont was admitted into the Union, — to offset Kentucky. After an 
eventful life, Ethan Allen died at Burlington in 1789. 

Under the portico of the State House are kept two cannon taken from 
Breyman’s Hessians at the battle of Bennington (1777), after a desperate 
struggle. The British got them back when Gen. Hull surrendered the 
Army of the N. W. at Detroit (August, 1812), and they were again taken 
by the Americans during the Canada campaign. They were sent to 
Washington, and afterwards were presented by Congress to the State of 
Vermont. The main building of the State House is 72 ft. long, and each 
of the wings is 52 ft., making a total length of 176 ft. The dome is 
124 ft. high, and is surmounted by a graceful statue of Ceres, the goddess 
of agriculture. The marble-paved lower floor is devoted to committee- 
rooms, and a small collection of historical and mineral curiosities. In 
large niches at the ends of the neat lobby on the second floor are pre¬ 
served the battle-flags and pennons of the Vermont regiments in the 
Secession War. What with storm, forest-march, and many battles, these 
veteran standards have lost their pristine brightness and wholeness, and 
with the names of the battles in which they were borne written on them 
in golden letters, they are carefully kept behind plate-glass. The gallery 
of the Senate is entered from the third floor. The halls of the Senate and 
House are well worth visiting, being graceful in form and well ornamented. 
A substantial stone bridge crosses the Winooski River at Montpelier, and 
7* 







202 Route ® 9 - 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


the country about the village affords many pleasant objective points for 
a summer day’s ride or ramble. 

Daily stages to Worcester, 7 M. N. (Worcester House), and tri-weekly to Elmore, 
20 M. N. Daily stages to Hardwick, 20 M. N. E., on the Portland and Ogdensburg 
R. R., passing through Calais (12 M. ; Moscow House) and Woodbury, thinly 
populated towns with scores of small lakes abounding in trout and other iish. 
Daily stages to Marshfield, 15 M. N. E., on the Great Falls of the Winooski, where 
that stream falls 500 ft. in 30 rods. Also to Plainfield, 9 M. E. (Plainfield House), 
with a medicinal spring (Spring House) of some repute ; to Washington (Washing¬ 
ton House, Lake House), 15 M. S. E. ; to Orange, 13 M. S. E. ; to Williamstown, 
and to Barre (Barre House), 6 M. S. E. 

Beyond Montpelier Junction the main line passes on to Middlesex 
(Washington House), near which (on the 1.) the Winooski River passes 
through the Middlesex Narrows, a cutting in the rock, 30 ft. deep, 60 ft. 
wide, and 1,300 ft. long) which has been worn by the action of the water. 
Stages run S. to Moretown (7 M.), Waitsjield (12 M.), and Warren. Beyond 
Middlesex the train reaches Waterbury (* Waterbury House), a highland 
town abounding in pleasant rambles and rides, with frequent glimpses of 
Camel’s Hump (in the S. W.). Camel's Hump Mt. is 8 M. distant, and 
Bolton Falls are but 3 M. to the N. W., and both are approached by 
good roads. N. E. of Waterbury, 10 M. (semi-daily stage in summer) is 
the rich farming town of Stow (* Mansfield House, opened in 1865, 
accommodates 3-400 guests, at $ 3.50 a day ; considerable reductions for 
a long stay. 100 horses are kept in the stables). Stow, “ the Saratoga 
of Vermont,” is charmingly situated in a quiet valley in full sight of lofty 
mountains, and when filled with summer guests it presents a lively ap¬ 
pearance. u Stow is unrivalled in the beauty, picturesqueness, and luxu¬ 
riant magnificence of its mountain scenery.” From Sunset Hill, near the 
hotel, a fine view of the village is obtained, and also of Mt. Mansfield 
and Camel’s Hump. 3 - 4 M. N. E. of Stow, on the slope of Worcester Mt 
are the Moss Glen Falls, in a narrow, rock-walled ravine which contains 
three picturesque basins. This bit of Tyrolese scenery has been greatly 
damaged by the erection of a saw-mill, for whose benefit the falls are 
dammed above. The Smugglers' Notch is a romantic pass between the Nose 
Peak of Mt. Mansfield and Sterling Mt. (3,500 ft. high). It is 9 M. from 
Stow, and a good road leads to a small hotel in the Notch, near the great 
spring which is the source of the Waterbury River. A horse-path beyond 
the hotel leads in \ M. to Berton’s Rock, a boulder weighing about 100 
tons, which fell from the abrupt cliffs that tower on each side to the 
height of 1,000 ft. A little way beyond, the path begins to descend to 
the plains of Cambridge. This pass was used during the War of 1812 for 
smuggling goods between Central Vermont and Canada. A few miles N. 
is Daniel’s Notch, between Sterling Mt. and the lofty White Face. Bing¬ 
ham’s Falls, 5 M. from Stow, Morrisville Falls, 8 M., West Hill, 2 M., 
and Gold Brock, 3 M., are often visited. 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 203 


Mount Mansfield. 

This is the loftiest of the Green Mts., and its highest peak is 4,348 ft. 
above the sea. As seen from above Stow it presents the appearance of 
the profile of a human face, the S. peak being the forehead, the middle 
peak the nose, and the N. peak the chin. 

After leaving Stow, the highway is followed for 5 M., and then a 
mountain road turns to the 1., ascending through the forest, 2| M., to the 
Half-Way House, from which a pretty valley view is gained. Here 
begins the long and arduous ascent to the Summit House. The forest 
dwindles away until the path reaches the Nose, whence a view is given 
into the profound depths of the Smugglers’ Notch. The Summit House 
is a commodious hotel (for 100 guests ; $ 3.50 a day) situated at the base 
of the Nose, which is climbed by a steep path on its W. slope (2 - 300 ft. 
high). On the E. side of this peak is the rock-profile called the “ Old 
Man of the Mt.” About 2 M. of steady, though not fatiguing ascent 
leads from the house to the Chin, passing over ledges marked by long 
scratches once received from rocks fixed in drifting icebergs, which passed 
over the silent waves of some shoreless primeval sea. The Chin is 340 ft. 
higher than the Nose, and is 3,800 ft. above Stow, and 4,348 ft. above 
the sea. This peak offers a more extensive northern view than that from 
the Nose (with an impressive view down the Notch), and is easily visited, 
although parties who go out to it usually stop over night at the Summit 
House, thereby gaining the superb effects of sunset and sunrise. 

The * * view from the Nose is very similar to that from the Chin, and is, perhaps, 
the noblest (though not the most extensive) in New England. On the S. are seen 
Camel’s Hump (15 M.) and Killington Peak (65 M.), with a great number of name¬ 
less peaks and ridges of the Green Mts. The great Lake Champlain fills the 
horizon from S. W. to N. W., being visible through the greater part of its extent, 
with the ancient blue Adirondacks lifting their cloud-like summits beyond. The 
apparently level lowlands of the Champlain valley are spread out like a map 
below, dotted with numerous white villages (beyond which is Burlington), and 
crossed by many streams. The great grazing district of the Lamoille valley 
stretches away to the N. W. and glimpses of the sparkling rivers, the Lamoille 
and the Winooski, are caught through the forests and foot-hills of the Green Mts. 
Far in the N. is the St. Lawrence River, with its valley dotted with Norman 
villages, and on the N. W., with a powerful glass and on a clear day, it is said that 
visitors have seen Mount Royal and the shining tin roofs of Montreal. E. of N., 
Jay Peak and Owl’s Head Mts. are seen, the latter rising from Lake Mem- 
phremagog, while still farther to the E. are Hor and Annanance, the mountains 
about Willoughby Lake. Farther to the r. are the Percy Peaks, and a little S. of 
E. the Franconia and White Mts. are seen low-1 ying on the horizon, 60 Ivl. 
distant. 

5 M. beyond Waterbury, on the main line, is Ridley's Station (Green 
Mt. House) whence carriages run to Camel's Hump, 6 M. S. The road 
has been built 3 M. up the mountain, and the remainder of the ascent is 
made on foot or horseback. A small house for shelter and refreshments 
is kept open all summer, 1 M. from the summit. The mountain is 4,083 
ft. high, and from its isolated position commands an extensive view, whose 


m 


204 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


general features are much like those of the prospect from Mt. Mansfield. 
The name Camel’s Hump is derived from a supposed resemblance of the 
outline of the mountain to that of the back of a camel. 

Near Ridley’s, and seen from the track (to the N.), are the Bolton Falls, 
amid some wild rock-scenery in a deep ravine nearly 4,000 ft. below the 
peak of Mt. Mansfield. The line now follows the picturesque valley of 
the Winooski to Jonesville, whence stages run to Hinesburg, Starksboro, 
and the rugged towns of Huntington (under Camel’s Hump) and Under¬ 
hill (under Mt. Mansfield). Station, Richmond (Richmond House), a 
bright village in the widenings of the Winooski valley, with an extensive 
trade in butter and cheese. The mountain-ravines open out here on the 
Champlain valley, and the country becomes more thickly settled. A 
bridge, 6Q0 ft. long, over the Winooski, is now passed, and the train 
enters the farming town of Williston. For several miles, running N. W. 
from this station, fine views are afforded from the train, — the Green Mts. 
■with their two loftiest peaks looming up boldly on the r., while the distant 
Adirondacks are seen on the 1. Essex Junction is soon reached, whence 
trains run to Burlington (see Route 26) in 8 M., passing the remarkable 
gorges on the Winooski River. 

5 M. N. of Essex is Colchester, to the W. of which is a tall-spired 
village (Mallet’s Bay Hotel), and still farther W..is Mallet’s Bay, which is 
nearly land-locked, has numerous islets, and affords good bass and pike 
fishing. Frequent views of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and the 
Green Mts. are obtained from the cars as they pass N. to Milton (three 
inns in the town). This village is near the Great Falls of the Lamoille, 
7 M. from the river’s mouth. The river descends here 150 ft. in 800 ft., 
and affords a water-power for the Milton lumber-mills. The train crosses 
the Lamoille River on a high bridge 450 ft. long, and stops at the station, 
Georgia and Fairfax. Georgia village (Franklin House), is 3J M. from 
the station, and Fairfax (Fairfax House) is 4 M. E. of the station, to 
which it has a tri-daily stage. A small Baptist Theological School is 
located at Fairfax. 

St. Albans (* Weldon House, first-class; American House ; Tremord 
House) is a pretty village of about 6,000 inhabitants, situated on an ele¬ 
vated plain 3 M. from Lake Champlain. Main Street is the principal 
thoroughfare, and has several good commercial buildings. There is a 
neat park of 4 acres in the centre of the village, on whose sides are the 
hotels, the Franklin County buildings, the High School, and several 
churches, the best of which is a Norman-towered Episcopal Church built 
of red sandstone. Back of this is the large Catholic Church and the 
Convent of Notre Dame. The offices of the Vermont Central R. R. 
occupy the spacious and imposing building at the station. In this 
vicinity are the immense repair and car-shops of the Vermont Central, 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 205 


occupying over lialf a mile of buildings, and employing several hundred 

( skilful workmen. These works are the largest of the kind in New 
England, and have turned out many locomotives and cars. The village 
has 3 banks, 2 weeklies and a daily newspaper (besides a weekly 
French paper), and 5 churches. Tuesday is its market day, when the 
farmers from Franklin Co. congregate in the streets, and great quantities 
of dairy products are sold. The quotations of butter and cheese at St. 
Albans alfect the market throughout the Eastern States, and vast quanti¬ 
ties of these products are shipped in ice-cars to the N. Atlantic cities 
(mostly to Boston). Between 1850 and 1865 St. Albans sent away 
33,603,044 pounds of butter, and 16,628,097 pounds of cheese, having a 
value of nearly $12,000,000. N. of St. Albans are quarries of calico- 
stone' and variegated marble, while a good sulphur-spring (appertaining 
to the Weldon House) is in the environs. 

“ St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of scenic beauty 
than any other that I remember in America. ” (Beecher. ) Bellevue Hill, 
2 M. S. W. from the station, and A Idis Hill, 1 M. N. E. of the village, 
are easy of ascent, and command lovely views. * Bellevue is 1,300 ft. 
above the lake, and about 900 ft. above the village. It overlooks the vil¬ 
lage and the rich plains of Franklin Co., strewn with villages, while a 
broad expanse of Lake Champlain is spread out in the W., the view ex¬ 
tending over Grand Isle to the New York shore. In the S. W. the 
Adirondacks rise, “ not in chains or single peaks, but in vast broods, a 
promiscuous multitude of forest-clothed mountains. In the N. is scooped 
out, in mighty lines, the valley of St. Lawrence ; and in clear days, the 
eye may spy the faint glimmer of Montreal.” (H. W. Beecher.) The 
Missisquoi valley is near, in the N., and Jay Peak lies to the E., from 
which the great line of the Green Mts. stretches away to the S., and 
Mount Mansfield is plainly visible. To the S. is the fertile Lamoille 
valley, running through Fairfax and Milton. Aldis Hill is only 500 ft. 
high, and is easily ascended. Its view, though less extensive than that 
from Bellevue, is of rare beauty. 

3 M. W. of the village is St. Albans Bay (Lake View House), a small shore 
hamlet, from which steamers run across the Lake to Plattsburg, starting early in 
the morning, 4 times weekly. (Fare, $1.00.) 

Stages run E. to Fairfield (7 M.) and Bakersfield (16 M.). 

St. Albans was the scene of great excitement during the Canadian rebellion in 
1837, and several raiding parties (of refugees) crossed the border from this vicinity. 
In October, 1864, several strangers boarded at the hotels for a few days, and 
learned the habits of the people. When the bells rang at 3 o'clock, on the 19th 
of Oct., these men entered the banks in parties, and robbed them of their funds, 
while others of the band arrested every citizen on the street. The robbers were 
22 in number, dressed in plain clothing and armed with revolvers, and, having 
secured what money they could, they stole a number of horses and fled, closely 
pursued by the citizens. During the firing which took place in the streets, one 
citizen was killed and several wounded. The plundering party (which was com¬ 
posed of escaped rebel prisoners) reached Canada with $208,000 in money, $80,000 
of which was returned to the banks by the British government. In June, 1866, 








206 Route 29. 


EOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


1,200 Fenians from the cities of the coast marched from this place into Canada, 
and plundered a village. The provisions of this party soon gave out, and they 
returned to St. Albans, where they were disarmed by 1,000 U. S. troops, who 
were encamped on the village Park for 2 weeks. 

St. Albans to Richford. 

The East Division of the Vermont Central R. R. runs N. E. to Rich- 
ford in 1J-2 hours. Near the station Sheldon Springs (about 10 M. 
out) are several mineral springs. The famous Missisquoi Spring (* Mis- 
sisquoi Hotel) is alkaline in character, and has no distinctive taste, but 
has proved very efficacious in cutaneous diseases. Within the space of 
an acre, near the palatial hotel, are 13 mineral springs, of varying prop¬ 
erties, arising through a vein of fine fuller’s earth. One of these springs 
is cathartic, and is used in cases of dyspepsia and liver complaints. In 
the year 1868, 354,000 quart bottles of Missisquoi water were sent away, 
and in 4 months of the same year 40,000 bottles were sent from the Ver¬ 
mont Spring. Dunton’s Hill is a favorite resort, 2 M. from the Missisquoi 
House, the Sheldon Spring is 1 M. S. W., and the Central Spring (in 
Sheldon village) is 2 - 3 M. to the E. 

The Vermont Spring waters are mostly bottled and sent away, for the 
cure of diseases of the skin, cancer, &c. It is about 2 M. from the Mis¬ 
sisquoi, and there are numerous other mineral springs, differing in their 
properties, about the village. The Continental, Central, and Excelsior 
are among the most noted, while Sheldon Spring, near the Missisquoi 
Falls, has long been visited. The * Congress Hall Hotel, located near 
the latter spring, is a large and first-class house. The water flows at the 
rate of 14,000 gallons a day, and contains a large amount of carbonate of 
soda with potash. “It is a very unusual alkaline, saline water, con¬ 
taining more silicic, acid in solution than any on record. The presence of 
so much crenic acid is also remarkable, and, with the iron and magnesia, 
adds to the valuable constituents.” (Dr. Hayes.) The hot and cold 
baths (in convenient bath-houses) work wonderful cures in cases of rheu¬ 
matism, erysipelas and skin diseases, cancers and chronic ailments. From 
Dunton's Hill (1 M. from Congress Hall) a vast panoramic view of the 
Green Mts. is obtained, while the silver waters of Lake Champlain, in the 
W., are overlooked by the blue Adironacks. Considerable tracts of 
Lower Canada are included in this view, which is terminated on the N. 
by the spires of Montreal. The Missisquoi River falls 119 ft. near Shel¬ 
don Spring. At Sheldon village (Central House), 2 M. E., there are 
many hotels and boarding-houses. Here is the Central Spring, which, 
besides carbonates of lime, magnesia, iron, soda, and potassa, and sulphate 
of lime, contains the valuable element of phosphoric acid. It cures 
cutaneous and pulmonary affections, dyspepsia, rheumatism, &c. 

The Portland and Ogdensburg R. R. will cross the Missisquoi Valley 
R. R. at Sheldon. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 207 


The line follows the rich valley through several farming and dairy 
towns, passing the stations, E. Franklin, Enosburg Falls, Enosburg, and 
E. Berleshire, to Richford (American House), a thinly populated town, 
on whose S. E. corner Jay Peak rises to an altitude of over 4,000 ft. 

A railroad is to be built from Richford N. W. through St. Armand, Dunham, 
and Notre Dame des Anges, to W. Farnham, in the Province of Quebec, and on 
the N. Division of the Vetmont Central R. R. 


Soon after leaving St. Albans, the main line passes Swanton Junction, 
where a railroad diverges to Rouse’s Point and Ogdensburg. 

This line passes through Swantmi (Central House), a pretty village with a 
Soldiers’ Monument on its Green, consisting of a statue (in Vermont marble) of 
the Goddess of Liberty on a pedestal of gray Isle La Motte marble. Swanton 
was settled by the French in 1750, but they were crowded out within a half-cen¬ 
tury. Much marble, black, white, and red variegated, is quarried in this town. 
After crossing Missisquoi Bay on a trestle-bridge, the train stops at Allmrgli 
Springs (* Alburgh Springs House), whose mineral waters are much used for 
cutaneous complaints. The drives on the lake shore are very pleasant, and fish¬ 
ing and boating are favorite summer amusements. The peninsula of Alburgh was 
granted by the King of France, as a feudal seigniory, to Councillor Foucault, un¬ 
der whose orders it was settled in 1731. It was occupied by loyalist refugees late 
in the Revolutionary Era, and in 1837 was one of the frontier towns from which 
the insurgents in the “ Patriot War” made their raids into Canada. 

Passing the stations, Alburgh and W. Alburgh, the line crosses Lake Champlain 
at its N. end on a long trestle-bridge. Fort Montgomery is seen on the r., com¬ 
manding the Richelieu River. After the works on this fort had gone on for some 
time, it was discovered to be in British territory, but a generous change of boun¬ 
dary gave the land to the United States, and the work was completed. On the 1. 
Isle La Motte may be seen far down the lake. 

House’s Point (New York) is now reached. From this point the line runs 
W. through the Chateaugay Woods, passing Malone and Potsdam, to Ogdensburg, 
406 M. from Boston and 141 M. from St. Albans. Another railroad runs N. on 
the 1. bank of the Richelieu River, to St. John’s (23 M.). The great Lake Cham¬ 
plain steamers leave Rouse’s Point twice daily (in summer) for Whitehall. 

After passing Swanton Junction and E. Swanton, the train on the main 
line stops at Highgate Springs (* Franklin House). The hotel is on one 
side of the track, and the spring-house on the other. The spring is alka¬ 
line, containing chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of 
soda. E. of the Springs is the broad and beautiful Missisquoi Bay (Missi 
Kiseo — much water-fowl), which is nearly land-locked, and abounds in 
fish. The Franklin House accommodates 160 guests, at $3.00 a day. 
2-3 M. S. E. is a considerable village at Highgate Falls , on the Missis¬ 
quoi River. The alkaline Champlain Spring is located here (Champlain 
House, Green Mt. House, both fronting on the village park), and is con¬ 
sidered a specific for dyspepsia, cutaneous eruptions, cancer, and con¬ 
sumption. Alburgh Springs on the W. and Missisquoi Springs on the S. 
E., are within easy distance of Highgate. Highgate was the birthplace 


208 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


of John G. Saxe, whose poems of humor and pathos are widely known 
and read. 

About 3 M. beyond Highgate, the train leaves the United States, and 
enters Missisquoi County, in the Anglo-Canadian Province of Quebec. 
Stations, St. Armand, Moore's, and Stanbridge, on the plains of the Rich¬ 
elieu River. Stanbridge is a neat village, from which stages run to E. 
Stanbridge (3 M.) and Bradford. As the line passes farther out on the 
plains, the great, isolated mountains of Rougemont and Reloeil are seen on 
the r. On Beloeil the Bishop of Nancy had an immense cross erected in 
1843, which was visible for many leagues. It was demolished by a storm 
in 1847. Stations, Des Rivieres, St. Alexandre, beyond which the train 
passes the junction of the Stanstead, Shefford, and Chambly Railroad, 
running from St. Johns E. to Waterloo, 43 M. Stages from Waterloo to 
Lake Memphremagog in 20 M. The line now crosses the Richelieu River 
to St. .Johns, a quaint, old-fashioned, Norman-French village near the 
head of the Chambly Rapids. The town is situated on a level plain, and 
is connected with the suburb of St. Athanase by a fine bridge over the 
Richelieu. There is good fishing by boat near St. Johns, and the few visi¬ 
tors who stop at this quiet old town usually ride to Chambly, a pleasant 
village near the confluence of the Richelieu and Montreal Rivers. It is 
12 M. N. of St. Johns by the river-road, and is on a lake-like expansion 
of the river, called Chambly Basin. The Richelieu flows toward the N. 
E. almost parallel with the St. Lawrence which it joins at Lake St. Peter, 
70 M. distant. 

Chambly was fortified by the French in 1711, and in 1775 it had a strong stone 
fort built by the British, with massive towers at its angles. Large supplies were 
stored here : but the commander was so careless that the fort was easily taken by 
the Americans in October, 1775. It was abandoned on the advance of Burgoyne, 
having first been stripped of its stores, and has since served (until the English 
military evacuation of Canada) as an exercising-ground for the Montreal garrison. 
In the crypt of the Catholic Church is buried De Salaberry, Seigneur of Chambly, 
who commanded the Canadians in the battle of Chateaugay (War of 1812), when 
a large invading force of Americans was resisted with such valor and success that 
De Salaberry ever after bore the title of “the Canadian Leonidas.” 12 M. from 
Chambly is Beloeil Mt. 

Other excursions from St. Johns are to Scotch Mt. (6 M. over a good road), which 
commands a fine view of the Green Mts. and the border Townships ; and to the 
Chambly Rapids on the Richelieu. 

The Marquis of Montcalm built a fort at St. Johns, which was strengthened by 
Gov. Carleton. Benedict Arnold’s American fleet was repulsed in an-attack in 
1775, but the fort was besieged by Gen. Montgomery in September of the same 
year, and, after six weeks of blockade and cannonade, it surrendered, with 600 
British regulars and 4S heavy cannon. The American garrison evacuated the post 
on the advance of Gen. Burgoyne. 

At St. Johns the train moves on to the rails of the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way (Montreal and Rouse’s Point Division), and passes through the fair 
and fertile plains of the Parish of La Prairie to St. Lambert, opposite 
Montreal. The St. Lawrence River is crossed by the wonderful * Victoria 
Bridge, and the train stops at Montreal (see Route 54). 


WEIRS. 


Route 30. 209 


30. Boston to the Franconia Mts. 

By the Boston and Lowell and Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroads. 
Parlor cars run from Boston without change to Plymouth. Boston to Plymouth 
(123 M.) in 5 hrs. ; to the Twin Mt. House (205 M.) in about 8 hrs. The branch 
road which runs from Wing Road station to Bethlehem will be completed to the 
Twin Mt. House by July 1, 1873. 

The train leaves the Boston and Lowell station (PI. 3) at 8, or 8.30 A. 
M., and passes to Concord by Route 29, through Lowell, Nashua, and 
Manchester. (Trains leaving the Boston and Maine station, at 7.30, or 8, 
make a connection with this route by way of Manchester.) 

After leaving Concord, the line crosses the Merrimac, and passes the 
stations, E. Concord , N. Concord, Canterbury (with a large Shaker village 
4 M. from the station), Northjield, and Tilton (Dexter House). Tilton 
was formerly called Sanbornton Bridge, and is the seat of the N. H. 
Seminary and Female College, which has good buildings near the railroad. 

Stages run from Tilton to Gilmanton Centre and to New Hampton (Waukeneto 
House), 12 M. N., the seat of a Free Will Baptist Theological School. At the 
head of Little Bay, near Tilton, was the largest Indian fortress in New England, 
consisting of several lines of intrenchments faced with stone, and evidently once 
palisaded. Some remnants of these works remain. 

The line now passes along the shores of Winnepesaukee River, Little 
Bay, and Great Bay. Stations, Union Village and Laconia (Willard 
Hotel), whose factories turn out yearly 1,500,000 yards of fancy cloths, 
275,000 dozen hose, and 3-400 railroad cars. From this point an inter¬ 
esting excursion may be made to the summit of Mt. Belknap (4J M. dis¬ 
tant), on the shore of the lake. From this commanding peak the lake 
may be seen throughout nearly its entire extent, and views of the mts. 
beyond and of the pretty village of Wolfboro are obtained. Laconia is 
on the shore of Lake Winnesquam (Great Bay), a picturesque sheet of 
water on the 1. of the line. After leaving Laconia, the line passes along 
Sanbornton Bay to Lake Village (Lake House), which has several large 
lumber-mills. A small steamer runs daily (in summer) to Alton Bay. 
The quiet waters of Long Bay are now skirted, on the r. bank, with the 
peaks of Belknap Mt. beyond. Station, Weirs, with a fine view out over 
Lake Winnepesaukee. Steamers leave this point for the villages on the 
lake (see Route 32), and N. Conway may be reached by crossing to Wolf¬ 
boro, and taking the cars on Route 31. Near Weirs, on the N. shore of 
the outlet, is the Endicott Rock, which is about 20 ft. around, and is 
carved with the initials of the chiefs of the colonial survey of 1632, and 
with the words, “ John Endicut, Gov.” The train passes N., with the 
lake on the r., to Meredith (Elm House). Stages run daily from Mere¬ 
dith to Sandwich, and a railroad route has been surveyed, and is to be 
constructed to Conway. 

The train now passes Waukawan Lake, on the r., which is 4 M. long 

N 


210 , Route 30. 


PLYMOUTH. 


anil 1-2 M. broad. Waukawan is a name given to this lake by the 
Indians, and now used by summer visitors, though the rustics who 
live in the vicinity call it Measley Pond. Long Pond is now passed, 
and the train stops at Ashland (Squam Lake House), a small factory- 
village near the confluence of the Squam and Pemigewasset Rivers, and 3 
M. from the lovely Squam Lake (see Route 32). This is in the ancient 
Episcopal town of Holdemess, and the road along Squam Lake exhibits 
some of the richest scenery in the country. The Pemigewasset is now 
crossed near Bridgewater station, and its valley is followed to Plymouth 
(* Pemigewasset House, 150 rooms, a first-class summer hotel, where the 
midday trains stop 30 minutes for passengers to dine ; Plymouth House). 
Plymouth, the shire-town of Grafton County, is a beautiful village in the 
midst of attractive scenery, near the confluence of the Pemigewasset and 
Baker’s Rivers. It has a large country trade, and is noted for its manufac¬ 
ture of fine buckskin gloves. Walker’s Hill overlooks the village and valley, 
while Mt. Prospect (4 M. N. E.; carriage-road to the summit) commands 
an extensive prospect. On the S. is the valley of the Pemigewasset 
(“ Place of crooked pines ”), with its broad, rich intervales, while numer¬ 
ous well-known peaks extend between Monadnock in the S. W. and 
Moosilauke in the N. W. The N. is filled with the lofty summits of the 
Franconia and the White Mts., prominent among which is Mt. Lafayette. 
Osceola and White Face are in the N. E., and just below the Squam 
Range in the E. is the beautiful, island-dotted Squam Lake. To the S. 
E. are the bright waters of Winnepesaukee, with Mt. Belknap looking 
over them. Mt. Prospect is 2,963 ft. above the sea, and possesses several 
other objects of interest, —the Miser’s Cave, the Avalanche, and the Cold 
and Boiling Springs. 

The drive around Plymouth Mt. is a favorite excursion, and the view 
from its summit is pleasant, embracing many of the features of the view 
from Mt. Prospect, with the addition of Newfound Lake. 2 M. N. of 
Plymouth are the romantic Livermore Falls , bearing traces of volcanic 
agencies. From Plymouth to Squam Lake it is 6 M.; to Newfound Lake, 
9 M.; to Centre Harbor, 12 M. 

Capt. Baker, of Newbury, with a company of Mass. Rangers, attacked an Indian 
village near the confluence of the river which now bears his name with the 
Pemigewasset River. After killing many of the villagers, the Rangers plundered 
the place, and then retreated, being vainly attacked afterwards on the plains of 
Bridgewater. Plymouth was settled in 1764. The house still stands here (now a 
carriage-shop near the hotel) in which Daniel Webster made his first plea before a 
jury. Nathaniel Hawthorne died in this village May 19, 1864. A remarkable 
balloon voyage was commenced at Plymouth in September, 1872, by an aeronaut 
and a journalist, who ascended into mid-air, passed over the White Mts. at the 
rate of 50 M. an hour, and landed at Sayabec, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, having 
travelled over 500 M. in 13 hrs. 

The finest avenue of approach to the Franconia Mts. is by stage from Plymouth 
to the Profile House (29 M. ; fare $4.00). The road runs up the Pemigewasset 
valley, and commands fine views as the mts. are approached. Campton and 
Thornton lie on this stage-road (see Route 34, ad finam). 


MOOSILAUKE MT. 


Route 80. 211 


After leaving Plymouth, the railroad follows the valley of Baker’s 
River for 20 M. Station, Rumney (Stinson House), S. of Stinson’s Mt. 
and Pond, which were named in memory of a hunter who was killed here 
by the Indians. The village is nearly 1 M. from the station. Saw-mills, 
tanneries, and cliarcoal-works abound in the town. Stations, W. Rum¬ 
ney and Wentworth (Union Hotel), a village on fair intervales, and sur¬ 
rounded by high hills. Caro's Mt. is on the E., and Cuba Mt. on the W. 
Station, Warren (Moosilauke House, $ 2 - 2.50 a day, $ 10 -15.00 a week). 
Moosilauke Mt. is 5 M. from this village (9 M. to the summit by a good 
carriage-road), and on its top is the Summit House ($ 4.00 a day). 

During the summer, when carriages run frequently from the village 
hotel to the Summit House, the fare for each passenger (including tolls) is 
$ 4.50. From its isolated position and great height (4,600 ft.), this peak 
commands a grand and unique * view. In the S. are the hill towns of 
Grafton County, with numerous prominent and well-known peaks rising 
over them. Beyond Owl’s Head, on the W., considerable portions of the 
Green Mts. may be seen on a clear day. In the N. W. is part of the 
Connecticut valley, and one or two Canadian peaks are seen in the 
remote N., while nearer at hand are the Pemigewasset Mts. A noble 
panorama of mts. extends from Sugar Loaf (W. of N.) to the white peak 
of Chocorua (S. of E.), embracing the chief summits of the White and 
Franconia Ranges. On the S. E. is the shining surface of Lake Winne- 
pesaukee, and in the same direction some portion of the State of Maine is 
visible. 

From Peaked Hill, near the village hotel, a good view of Moosilauke is 
obtained. Carr’s Mt., Webster’s Slide, and Owl’s Head are also in War¬ 
ren, while on Hurricane Brook are numerous picturesque cascades, known 
as Fairy, Rocky, Oak, Wolf Head, Watenome, and Hurricane Falls. 
Diana’s Wash-Bowl is a sequestered basin on the same creek. 

Station, E. Haverhill, beyond which the line traverses the glen of the 
Oliverian Brook, with Webster’s Slide Mt. on the 1. and the precipitous sides 
of Owl’s Head on the r. Station, Haverhill (Exchange House), a pretty 
village on a hill near the track, with the Grafton County buildings'. Just 
across the river is the village of Newbury (see Route 24), which may be 
seen from the 1. as the train skirts the rich intervales, and passes to N. 
Haverhill, a small village near the Ox Bow Bend of the river. Stations, 
Woodsville, and Wells River (Coosuck House), where the train crosses 
the Connecticut, and makes a connection with the Conn, and Passumpsic 
Railroad (Route 24). The river is recrossed on the same bridge, and the 
line now runs by Woodsville up the valley of the Ammonoosuc River. 
Stations, Bath, a small village on the Connecticut, E. of which the Wild 
Ammon<3osuc joins the Ammonoosuc; Lisbon (small inn); N. Lisbon, 
and Littleton (Thayer’s Hotel; Union House; and several boarding- 


212 Route SO. 


LANCASTER. 


houses, the best of which is the * Oak Hill House, on the high hill over 
the village, accommodating 70 guests, at $ 10-15.00 a week). Littleton 
was chartered in 1764, under the name of Chiswick, and has 15 M. of 
territory on the Connecticut River. It has 2,400 inhabitants, 2 banks, 3 
churches, several manufactories, and a weekly paper called “ The White 
Mountain Republic.” From the hills in the vicinity, fine panoramic 
views of the White and Franconia Mts. may be obtained. Stages leave 
semidaily for the Profile House (see Route 34), 11 M. distant. 

Stations, Wing Road, where trains connect on a branch railroad to 
Bethlehem and the Twin Mt. House (12 M. distant); Whitejield (White- 
field House), a lumber-working town ; and Dalton (Sumner House), a 
pleasant village near the Connecticut. Stations, S. Lancaster, and Lan¬ 
caster (* Lancaster House, 120 -130 guests, at $ 3 - 3.50 a day; American 
House), a beautiful village on a broad plain near the river. It has about 
2,200 inhabitants, 2 weekly papers, and 5 churches. This is a favorite 
summer-resort, “ and in the combined charm, for walks or rides, of 
meadow and river, — the charm, not of wildness, but of cheerful bright¬ 
ness and beneficence,— Lancaster is unrivalled.” (Starr King.) Steb- 
bins ’ Hill, near the village, commands an extensive view ; while the drive 
around Mt. Prospect { 2-3hrs.)is much esteemed. The rapids on the 
Connecticut are reached by a fine road over the intervales (6 M.). The 
riverward road3 are level and smooth, revealing fine distant views, the 
best of which is obtained from the Lunenburg Hills, beyond the river in 
Vermont. To the E. and N. E. of Lancaster are the dark and unexplored 
Pilot Mts., whose main peak is sometimes ascended by a path leadiug 
from the hamlet of Lost Nation, yielding a broad view over the upper 
Coos country and the mountain-walls to the S. and S. E. Israel’s River 
unites with the Connecticut near the village, after flowing down a pictur¬ 
esque valley from its source near Mt. Madison. Sir Charles Dilke says 
that “ the world can show few scenes more winning than Israel’s River 
valley, in the White Mts. of N. H., or N. Conway, in the S. slopes of the 
same chain.” The stream is named for an old hunter who was one of the 
pioneers of the Cods country, but the melodious Indian name is preferable, 
—Singrawack, “the foaming stream of the white rock.” “ Grand combi¬ 
nations of the river and its meadows with the Franconia Range and the vast 
White Mt. wall are to be had in short drives beyond the river, upon the 
Lunenburg Hills.” Stages run from Lancaster twice daily (7 M.) to the 
Waumbek House, on Jefferson Hill, famed for its panoramic view of the 
White, Franconia, and Green Mts. (see Route 33). 

Beyond Lancaster the railroad follows the Connecticut River for 10 M., 
and connects with the Grand Trunk Railway (Route 40) at Northumber¬ 
land. 


ROCHESTER. 


Route 31. 213 


31. Boston to the White Mountains. 

By the Eastern Railroad to N. Conway (137 M.) in 5 hrs., fare, $5.00 ; to the 
Crawford House (162 M.) in 12 hrs., fare, $8.50 ; to the Glen House (157 M.) in 
11 hrs., fare $7.00. This is the quickest and nearest route to the White Mts., and 
runs two Pullman express trains daily in summer. 

The train leaves the Eastern station in Boston (on Causeway, at the foot 
of Friend St.), and passes out over the Charles River. Boston to Conway 
Junction, see Route 37 (the principal stations are Chelsea, Lynn, Salem, 
Ipswich, Newburyport, Hampton, and Portsmouth). Beyond Conway 
Junction the train passes the stations, S. Benvick, Salmon Falls, and 
Great Falls. At the latter village are extensive cotton-factories, employ¬ 
ing 3,000 hands, and consuming 7,700 bales of cotton yearly. Station, 
Rochester {Dodge's Hotel; Mansion House), a village on Norway Plains, 
with several factories near the falls on the Cocheco River. The town has 
3 banks, 7 churches, and over 4,000 inhabitants. Over 2,000,000 yards 
of flannel are made here yearly, with 400,000 pairs of shoes, 100,000 pairs 
of blankets, and 2,000,000 bricks. Rochester was settled in 1728, and its 
people kept constant vigil for nearly half a century, being often attacked 
by the Indians. John P. Hale, a prominent leader in the antislavery 
movement, and U. S. Senator for 16 years, was born here in 1806. 

The Portland and Rochester Railroad runs from this village across the centre of 
York County to Portland (52 M. ; fare, $1.55). Stations, E. Rochester, E. Leba¬ 
non, and Springvale, a village in Sanford, which was bought of the Sagamore 
Fluellen in 1661. Stages run from Springvale to Shapleigh, and to Newfleld, 
where the Mt. Eagle Tripoli is made, and large carriage-factories are located. 
Station, Alfred ( Central House; County House), a pleasant village on a level 
plain, containing the York County buildings, and named in honor of King Alfred 
of England. The line next crosses the towns of Waterborough and Hollis, and 
the Saco River. Station, Buxton (Berry’s Hotel), the old Narragansett, No. 1, 
which was named in compliment to Paul Coffin, its pastor for 40 years, whose 
ancestors came from Buxton in England. This town was one of the 7 granted by 
Mass, to the victorious soldiers of King Philip’s War, and 9 more were granted 
to the veterans of the Canada War of 1695. The soldiers were thus compensated 
for their labors, and at the same time the distressed and war-swept settlements 
on the Maine coast were shielded by a double tier of towns inhabited by hardy 
and fearless veterans. Buxton has 4 villages, with extensive lumber-mills. Stages 
rim to Cornish and Limington. Station, Gorham (Clement House), the 7th town 
granted to the veterans of 1675, and named for Capt. Gorham, whose company 
lost 36 killed and 41 wounded at the Narragansett Fort Fight. Station, Sacarappa, 
a manufacturing village which for 50 years sent vast amounts of lumber to Port¬ 
land and Havana. The Cumberland Mills turn out $ 1,000,000 worth of paper 
annually. After running across the populous town of Westbrook, the train ap¬ 
proaches Bramhall Hill, and passes into the terminal station at Portland. 

After leaving Rochester, the White Mt. train passes the stations, Hayes’ 
Crossing and S. Milton, and stops at Milton (Franklin House), a quiet 
farming town near the Salmon Falls River. Mt. Teneriffe is seen on the 
1. Station, Union (Union House), beyond which Copple Crown Mt. is 
seen in the W. 


214 Route 31. 


CONWAY. 


From Wolftooro Junction a branch railroad runs (in 12 M.) to Wolfboro, on 
Lake Winnepesaukee (see Route 32), in the latter part of its course skirting 
Smith’s Pond, and stopping near the wharf of the Lake steamers. 

Stations, Wakefield, E. Wakefield, and N. Wakefield, to the E. of 
which is Lake Newichawanuock (East Pond), which is 3 M. long and I 

M. wide. Stations, Ossipee and Ossipee Centre (two inns), the shire- 
town of Carroll County. A glimpse of Ossipee Lake is gained on the r., 
beyond this station, with Green Mt. on its farther shore. Running N. 
with Ossipee Mt. on the L, the train reaches W. Ossipee (* Banks’ Hotel), 
from which fine excursions may be made to Ossipee Lake, Sandwich 
Notch, and Mt. Chocorua (see page 220). Madison Plains are next 
traversed, with the broad sheet of Six Mile Pond glittering among the 
forests on the r. and Legion Mt. far beyond. On the 1. is the weird peak 
of Chocorua, to which Starr King has applied the adjectives, “gallant, 
haughty, rugged, torn, proud-peaked, desolate, proud and lonely, tired.” 

Stations, Madison and Conway (*Conway House; Pequawket House; 
Grove House). This village is situated on rich level land, and has many 
charming rural scenes along the winding Saco. From its air of tran¬ 
quillity and pastoral seclusion, this hamlet of Chatauque is preferred to 

N. Conway by those who seek quiet and rest, and are regardless of bril¬ 
liant society. Excursions are made from this point to * Chocorua Lake, 
8 - 9 M. distant, under the mt. of the same name; to Conway Centre and 
Fryeburg (see Route 39), in the N. E.; to Chatham, by the long, strag¬ 
gling village of Conway Street, between the Green Hills and the Maine 
border; to Champney’s Falls, ascending the Swift River valley to the W.; 
and to the Cathedral, Echo Lake, and Diana’s Bath. The last-named 
places are as near to Chatauque' as to N. Conway, and the fording of the 
river is avoided. There are fine views of the White Mts. from this vil¬ 
lage, with the Mote Mts. looming in the N. W. Beyond Conway the 
train runs N. for 5 M., much of the way being over embankments and 
trestles on the Saco intervales. The Mote Mts. are approached on the 1., 
and Kiarsarge appears on the r. Soon after crossing the Saco, a white 
village is seen on the hillside, the tower of the Kiarsarge House is ap¬ 
proached on the r., and the train stops at the new and elegant station 
bxxilding at N. Conway (see Route 33). 

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. 

Route 32. —Lake Winnepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains. 

33. —The White Mountains and North Conway. 

34. — The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasset 

Valley. 

35. — The Percy Peaks, Dixville, and Lake Umbagog. 



LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE. 


Route 32. 215 


32 Lake Winnepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains. 

From Boston to the Lake : (a) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell and Con¬ 
cord to Weirs, whence the steamer “Lady of the Lake ” runs to Centre Harbor 
and Wolfboro. Boston to Weirs, 105 M. 

(b) By Route 38, through Lawrence and Dover to Alton Bay, whence the 
steamer “Mt. Washington” runs to Wolfboro, Centre Harbor, and Meredith. 
Boston to Alton Bay, 96 M. 

(c) By Routes 31 and 37, through Salem and Portsmouth to Wolfboro, where 
both the steamers touch, and from which all the lake-villages may be visited. Bos¬ 
ton to Wolfboro, 106 M. (in 4t hrs. by the Pullman express train in the morning). 

Lake Winnepesankee is in the counties of Carroll and Belknap, in the 
State of N. H v and is 25 M. long by 1 - 7 M. wide, containing 69 square 
miles. It is 472 ft. above the sea, and its waters of crystalline purity re¬ 
flect the shadows of several bold mountains, and surround nearly 300 
islands, great and small. 8 towns rest around it, having (in 1870) an 
aggregate population of 14,000 on about 200 square miles of territory; 
and but few and small are the villages along the curiously indented shores. 
The waters of the lake are discharged by the Winnepesankee River, 
which unites with the Pemigewasset to form the Merrimac, and passes 
into the ocean at Newburyport. Winnepesaukee is an ancient Indian 
word which is popularly supposed to mean e< The Smile of the Great 
Spirit,” although some interpret it as “ Pleasant Water in a High Place.” 

“ There may be lakes in Tyrol and Switzerland which, in particular respects, 
exceed the charms of any in the Western world. But in that wedding of the 
land with the water, in which one is perpetually approaching and retreating from 
the other, and each transforms itself into a thousand figures for an endless dance 
of grace and beauty, till a countless multitude of shapes are arranged into perfect 
ease and freedom, of almost musical motion, nothing can be held to surpass, if to 
match, our Winnepesaukee.” (Bartol.) 

“ I have been something of a traveller in our own country,—though far less 
than I could wish, — and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, from 
the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, from the sum¬ 
mit of the Hartz Mountains to the Fountain of Vaueluse ; but my eye has yet to 
rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weirs 
Landing to Centre Harbor.” (Edward Everett.) 

“ Looking up to the broken sides of the Ossipee Mts. that are rooted in the 
lake, over which huge shadows loiter ; or back to the twin Belknap hills, which 
appeal to softer sensibilities with their verdured symmetry; or farther down, 
upon the charming succession of mounds that hem the shores near Wolfboro ; or 
northward, where distant Chocorua lifts his bleached head, so tenderly touched 
now with gray and gold, to defy the hottest sunlight, as he has defied for ages 
the lightning and the storm, — does it not seem as though the passage of the 
Psalms is fulfilled before our eyes, — * Out of the perfection of beauty God hath 
shined ’ ? ” (Thomas Starr King). 

The poetry of Percival and of Whittier has often been inspired by Winnepe¬ 
saukee. (See Whittier’s poems, “The Lake-side,” “Summer by the Lake,” and 
others.) 

The steamer runs E. from Weirs, with Meredith Bay opening to the N. 
Mount Belknap is seen to the S., and Ossipee Mt. looms up across the 
lake in front. After passing Governor’s Island on the S., the boat turns 
to the N. through a strait between Bear Island (3 M. from Weirs) and the 


216 Route 32. 


CENTRE HARBOR. 


mainland. Just after passing this island, and when within 3 M. of 
Centre Harbor, the finest * view on the lake is obtained. The whole line 
of the Sandwich Mts. is seen in the N., between Ossipee on the r. and 
Red Hill on the 1., with Whiteface looming foremost, and “ the haughty 
Chocorua ” leagues away to the N. E. 

Centre Harbor is 10 M. from Weirs. It has the*Senter House, $3.00 a 
day; the Moulton House, $10-14.00 a week ; and numerous pleasant boarding¬ 
houses, among which are those of R. L. Coe, A. M. Graves, the Wentworths, and 
Rev. Almon Benson. The prices at these houses range from $7.00 to $14.00 a 
week. Kelsea’s is on the far-viewing Centre Harbor Hill, over a mile from the 
village, while under Red Hill and near Squam Lake is Sturtevant’s (accommodat¬ 
ing about 30). 

Steamers (time-table of 1872) leave Centre Harbor 4 times daily. The “ Lady 
of the Lake” leaves at 7.30 A. M., and at 1 P. M. Fare to Wolfboro, 75 c. 

Stages leave daily (in summer) for Moultonboro, Sandwich, Tamworth, Madi¬ 
son, and W. Ossipee. 

Centre Harbor is a small hamlet at the head of one of the 3 northern 
bays of the lake. It was settled by Col. Senter in 1757, and was named 
in his honor, but the improvement of the town has been slow, and in 
1870 it had only 446 inhabitants. There are pleasant drives from this 
village to Moultonboro, to Sandwich, and * “around the ring,” the latter 
being by a series of roads 4 M. long, passing by Red Hill and within sight 
of Squam Lake, and returning to the village. Centre Harbor Hill, 1 M. 
from the hotels, affords a fine lake prospect, recommended for its sunset 
views. But the main attraction of the place is the * ascent of Red Hill 
(2,000 ft. high). By the highway it is 4 M. to the foot of the hill, from 
which a bridle-path nearly 2 M. long reaches the summit. A road 2 M. 
shorter is available to the pedestrian, bypassing out on the Sandwich 
road, taking the first farm-lane to the r. beyond the'cemetery and cross¬ 
roads, and crossing straight to Red Hill by means of quiet, rural field- ; 
roads. The mountain-path soon turns to the r. from the highway (which 
is followed to the 1. after it is gained). The hill is ascended to the first 
cottage, around whose upper corner the path bears sharply to the 1. The 
reddish sienite ledges of the summit are gained by a long climb through 
the forest, and here is seen the luxuriant uva ursce, whose flame-red 
autumnal tints probably gave name to the mountain. The * * view from 
the summit vies in beauty with that from Mount Holyoke, though of far 
different character and devoid of historic charm. Lake Winnepesaukee is 
outstretched in the S. with leagues of bright waters and hundreds of 
islets, while the twin summits of Mt. Belknap are seen over Centre 
Harbor, about 15 M. away. In the S. W. is Mt. Kearsarge, full 30 M. 
distant, while it is claimed that Monadnock (70 M. S. W.) may be seen in a 
clear day. In the W. is the lovely Squam Lake, winding like Winder- 
mere, among the hills, with numerous islands and white, sandy beaches, 
while beyond are the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect, near Plymouth. 

“The Mt. Washington range is not visible, being barred from sight by the dark 







































































. 





















• 



•- 































































CENTRE HARBOR. 


Route 32. 217 


Sandwich Range, which in the afternoon, untouched by the light, wears a savage 
frown that contrasts most effectively with the placid beauty of the lake below. 
Here is the place to study its borders, to admire the fleet of islands that ride at an¬ 
chor on its bosom, — from little shallops to grand three-deckers, — and to enjoy the 
exquisite lines by which its bays are infolded, in which its coves retreat, and "with 
which its low capes cut the azure water, and hang over it an emerald fringe.” 
qStarr King.) 

“ Far to the south 

Thy slumbering waters floated, one long sheet 
Of burnished gold, — between thv nearer shorea 
Softly embraced, and melting distantly 
Into a yellow haze, embosomed low 
’Mid shadowy hills and misty mountains, all 
Covered with showery light, "as with a veil 
Of airy gauze.” — Percival. 

In the N. E. the weird peak of Chocorua is seen, and nearer at hand in the E. 
is the heavy, dark mass of Ossipee. The central peak of the Sandwich Range is 
White Face, while Black Peak holds the left, and the right extends from Passa- 
conaway to Chocorua. The white village in the plain below is Sandwich, while 
the Bear Camp and Red Hill Ponds are seen in its vicinity. “ Whoever misses 
the view from Red Hill loses the most fascinating and thoroughly enjoyable view, 
from a moderate mountain-height, that can be gained from any eminence that lies 
near the tourist’s path.” The afternoon is the best time for the excursion. 

* Squam Lake is 3 - 4 M. from Centre Harbor, and should be visited 
for the sake of its sequestered loveliness, its romantic islets, and its white 
strand. The waters of Squam are of rare purity, and abound in fish. 

Plymouth is 12 M. N. W. of Centre Harbor, and is approached by a 
smooth but hilly road, passing through the romantically beautiful district 
formerly inhabited by the Squamscott Indians. This road skirts the 
shores of Squam and Little Squam Lakes, and at about 5 M. from Centre 
Harbor, has a superb * view of Chocorua, 15 M. away, over the broadest 
part of Squam Lake. The road passes across the broad, rich intervales 
of Holderness and Plymouth, with the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect on 
the r. 

On leaving Centre Harbor for Wolf boro, the steamer keeps a S. E. 
course, with Ossipee Mt. on the E. over the low shores of Moultonboro 
Neck. A great archipelago of islands is passed,—islands which shall 
here be nameless, they being worse than nameless in the poverty of their 
homely Saxon titles. About midway of the lake “ the unmistakable 
majesty of Washington is revealed. There he rises, 40 M. away, tower¬ 
ing from a plateau built for his throne, dim green in the distance, except 
the dome that is crowned with winter, and the strange figures that are 
scrawled around his waist in snow.” Fredrika Bremer speaks of “the 
Olympian majesty of Mt. Washington ” from this point. “ Farther on, 
the summit of Chocorua is seen moving swiftly over lower ranges, and 
soon the whole mountain sweeps into view, startling you with its ghost¬ 
like pallor and haggard crest. ” On Long Island, nearly half-way down 
the lake, is a small hotel, while the Island Hotel on Diamond Island is 
W. of the course, and is a favorite resort for excursion parties. The 
mountains in the N. change their relative positions with kaleidoscopic 
10 


218 Route 32. 


WOLFBORO. 


rapidity, and the imposing peaks of Mt. Belknap (whence is obtained the 
finest lake-view) loom up ahead. After passing these peaks the steamer 
rounds into Wolf boro Bay, with Copple Crown Mt. on the r. 20 M. from 
Centre Harbor is the village of Wolf boro. 

Hotels. * Pavilion, the best hotel on the lake ; Bellevue House, $ 8-12.00 a 
week ; Lake House. There are also many pleasant and retired boarding-houses 
in and near the village. 

Steamers leave for Alton Bay, Centre Harbor, and Weirs, two or three times 

Stages run daily to Tuftoriboro, a stock-raising town 7 M. N. W., and to Moul- 
tonboro, over a pleasant road on the B. shore of the lake. 

Wolfboro was settled in 1770, and was the site of the fine mansion of 
Gov. Sir John Wentworth. It is now a pleasant village in a thriving 
town of about 2,000 inhabitants, with 3 banks and 3 churches. Its situ¬ 
ation on two long hills near the lake is very beautiful, and fine views are 
enjoyed of the Belknap Mts. across the water. Good lake-views may be 
had from the hills about the village, and also from Tumble-Down Dick, a 
high eminence near the large Smith’s Pond, E. of Wolfboro. But the 
best excursion is to Copple Croivn Mt ., about 5 M. S. E., by a road passing 
to S. Wolfboro. The carriage-road runs nearly to the summit (fare, $ 2.00 
from the hotel for each person of a party). Copple Crown is 2,100 ft. 
high, and furnishes from its summit a view of nearly the whole length of 
the lake, with Mt. Belknap near at hand in the N. W., and the heavy 
range of Sandwich looming above the head of the lake. Chocorua and 
Ossipee are close together, a little W. of N., and on a clear day Mt. 
Washington may be seen beyond all, while the ocean is visible in the 
opposite direction. 30 lakes and ponds are seen from Copple Crown, of 
which Ossipee, in the N., is one of the finest. 

The Wolfboro Branch of tlie Eastern Railroad runs to the N. Conway main line 
in 12 M. Two express trains leave for Boston daily, making the distance (106 
M.) in 4-5 hrs. 

After leaving Wolfboro the steamer follows a southerly course to Fort 
Point, where it turns by Little Mark Island into Alton Bay. This is a 
narrow estuary, 4-5 M. long, and bordered by high wooded hills of 
Trosach-like boldness. The steamer follows the sinuosities of this curi¬ 
ous inlet, and sometimes seems to be walled in, as neither way of ingress 
nor egress is seen. Mt. Major is passed on the W. shore, and after many 
turns and bendings the last bluff is passed, and the hotel and station at 
the S. extremity of the lake are reached. Here is situated the Bay View 
House ($10-14.00 a week), a quiet summer-hotel with pleasant drives 
and good fishing in the vicinity. 

Alton Bay was formerly called Merry-Meeting Bay, since it was a famous gath¬ 
ering-place for the Indians. Several Indian raids on the N. H. coast passed down 
this bay, and in 1722 the province built a military road to it, and commenced for- 
tincations. The cost was found to be too heavy for the little colony, and the 
position was given up. Atkinson’s regiment, which was covering the frontiers 
during the French war, built a fort and encamped here through the winter of 
1740-7. 


CENTRE HARBOR TO CONWAY. Route 32. 219 


The hotel is about 30 M. from Centre Harbor. Mt. Major and Pros¬ 
pect Hill are near the hotel, and command beautiful lake-views, while the 
ocean may be seen (in clear weather) from the top of Prospect. Sharp’s 
Hill also gives a neat lake-view. 

Among the longer excursions is that to Lougee Pond, near a cluster of 
lakelets from which flows the Suncook River. Gilmanton Iron Works 
village is a little way S. of these ponds, which are about 6 M. from Al¬ 
ton Bay. 6-8 M. to the eastwai’d lies Merrymeeting Lake, an irregular, 
picturesque, and sequestered pond 10 M. in circumference, N. of which 
is Copple-Crown Mt. The favorite excursion from Alton Bay is to Mt. 
Belknap, 10 M. N. W. on the shores of, and overlooking, Lake Winne- 
pesaukee. Seats in the carriage which runs to the mt. whenever a party 
is formed cost $1.50 each, and the noble view of lakes and mts. more 
than repays for the time and trouble of the journey. 

Three trains daily (during the season) leave Alton Bay for Boston. 
Distance, 96 M.; time about 4 hrs. (see Route 38.) 


Centre Harbor to Conway. 

A railroad line has been surveyed from Meredith through Centre Har¬ 
bor to W. Ossipee. Daily stages now pass over the road between these 
points. After leaving the Harbor, Red Hill is approached and passed, 
and a village of Moultonboro is reached in 5 M. from the Senter House. 
Moultonboro has a small inn and two or three boarding-houses, and 
abounds in pleasant scenery which is rarely visited. Red Hill is here, 
and Ossipee Mt., also the long and sequestered Moultonboro Bay with its 
great archipelago of picturesque islets, and with plenty of fish in its 
waters. 

The Ossipee Indians had their home near this hay, and many relics of them 
have been found, chief among which is a great monumental mound at the mouth 
of Melvin River. 


“ Where the Great Lake's sunny smiles 
Dimple round its hundred isles. 

And the mountain's granite ledge 
Cleaves the water like a wedge, 

Ringed about with smooth, gray stones. 
Rest the giant’s mighty bones. 


Over lowlands forest-grown 
Over waters island-strown, 

Over silver-sanded beach, 
Leaf-locked bay and misty reach, 
Melvin stream and burial-heap. 
Watch and ward the mountains keep. 


Close beside, in shade and gleam, 

Laughs and ripples Melvin stream, 
Melvin water, mountain-born, 

All lair flowers its banks adorn ; 

All the woodland s voices meet. 

Mingling with its murmurs sweet. 

See Whittier’s poem, 


Who that Titan cromlech fills ? 
Forest-kaiser, lord o’ the hills ? 

, Knight who on the birchen tree 
Carved his savage heraldry ? 

Priest o' the pine wood temples dim, 
Prophet, sage, or wizard grim ? ” 

“ The Grave by the Lake.” 


On the S. side of Ossipee Mt. is a mineral spring, about 1 M. from which is a 
noble fountain, 16 ft. around, whose waters gush forth with great force and 
copiousness. Following the stream which is born here, a line water-fall, 70 ft. 
deep, is found in the forest, on the 1. of which is a cavern. 

The stage-road, after some pleasant views of Squam Lake, enters the 
pretty village of Sandwich (Red Hill House ; boarding-houses of Beede, 


220 Route 32. 


SANDWICH. 


Wiggin, and others), which is in a narrow valley nearly surrounded hy 
mountains. The scenery is noble, embracing Ossipee on the S. E., Red 
Hill, the Squam Mts. on the W., and the dark and storm-worn Sandwich 
Range on the N. Squam Lake is on the S. W. border of the town, and a 
charming road leads from the village to Plymouth, passing for several 
miles along the N. and W. shores of the lake, with the Squam Mts. on 
the r. Another road (somewhat arduous) leads across a high mountain- 
pass to Thornton, in the Pemigewasset Valley, while a bridle-path leads 
through Greeley’s Gap to Waterville. Beyond Sandwich the stage passes 
near Bearcamp Pond, and follows the Bearcamp River down through 
Sandwich Notch to the lowlands of Tamworth and Ossipee towns. 

Whittier’s poem, “ Among the Hills,” has its scene laid in this vicinity where 

“ Through Sandwich notch the west-wind sang Above his broad lake Ossipee 

Good morrow to the cotter ; Once more the sunshine wearing, 

And once again Chocorua’s horn Stooped, tracing on that silver shield 

Of shadow pierced the water. His grim armorial bearing.” 

And many are the weary ones who still come here 

“ To drink the wine of mountain air 
Beside the Bearcamp Water.” 

Whiteface (4,100 ft. high) is the most imposing of the Sandwich Mts., 
and is sometimes ascended from Sandwich, although the excursion is 
arduous and fatiguing. The view is said to be magnificent, embracing 
Winnepesaukee on the S. with the loftier peaks of the White Mts. on the 
N. On the N. E. is Passaconaway, a noble peak, 4,200 ft. high, which 
was named after the great sagamore of Pennacook, the most powerful 
Indian prince in northern New England, early in the 17th century. He 
governed a large confederacy of tribes from his seat at Pennacook (Con¬ 
cord), and although he strove to annihilate the English by necromantic 
arts, he never put his warriors in arms against them (see page 222). 

Chocorua and Ossipee. 

The road through Sandwich Notch passes out by Banks' Hotel , near 
W. Ossipee station, on the Eastern R. R. (Route 31). This is a pleasant 
old country hotel, with good accommodations at a moderate price, and 
stands in a fine position either for viewing or visiting the surrounding 
scenery. Banks’ is 18 M. from Centre Harbor, by way of Sandwich. 
Pleasant excursions are made along Bear River and into the Sandwich 
Notch. Ossipee Mt. is close to the hotel, and the highest peak is but 2-3 
M. distant. A grand view of Lake Winnepesaukee is obtained from this 
point, while Chocorua looms up in the N. and Ossipee Lake is in the 
S. W. 

Ossipee Lake is about 4 M. S. E. of the hotel. The road follows down 
the Bear Camp valley to the vicinity of the lake. In the field near Daniel 
Smith’s farm-house (1. of the road) is an Indian mound, nearly 50 'ft. in 
diameter, from which several skeletons and other relics have been taken. 


MOUNT CHOCORUA. 


Route S3. 221 


In the same field and nearer the lake are the remains of Lovewell’s fort, 
built in the spring of 1725, and abandoned after the battle at Pequawket 
(Fryeburg). Just beyond this point are the shores of Ossipee Lake, a 
sequestered sheet of water embracing about 10 square miles, with Green 
Mt. rising boldly on the further shore. 

* Mt. Chocorua is best visited from this point. It is 8 M. to the foot 
of the mt. and little more than half-way the beautiful Chocorua Lake 
(Lake House, finely situated) is passed. From this point the summits of 
the mountain are seen, of which “ one is a rocky, desolate, craggy-peaked 
substance, crouching in shape not unlike a monstrous walrus (though the 
summit suggests more the half-turned head and beak of an eagle on the 
watch against some danger); the other is the wraith of the proud and 
lonely shape above.” The ascent requires 5 M. from the foot of the 
mountain, and is very arduous, — no path having yet been made. 

“ How rich and sonorous that word Chocorua is ! Does not its rhythm suggest 
the wildness and loneliness of the great hills ? To our ears it always brings with 
it the sigh of the winds through mountain-pines. It is invested with traditional 
and poetic interest. In form it is massive and symmetrical. The forests of its 
lower slopes are crowned with rock that is sculptured into a peak with lines full 
of haughty energy, in whose gorges huge shadows are entrapped, and whose cliffs 
blaze with morning gold. On one side of its jagged peak a charming lowland 
prospect stretches E. and S. of the Sandwich Range, indented by the emerald 
shores of Winnepesaukee, which lies in queenly beauty upon the soft, far-stretch¬ 
ing landscapes. Pass around a huge rock to the other side of the steep pyramid, 
and you have turned to another chapter in the book of nature. Notliing but 
mountains running in long parallels, or bending, ridge behind ridge, are visible, 
here brilliant in sunlight, there gloomy with shadow, and all related to the tower¬ 
ing mass of the imperial Washington.There is no summit from which the 

precipices are so sheer, and sweep down with such cycloidal curves. It is so 
related to the plains on one side and the mountain-gorges on the other, that no 
grander watch-tower, except Mt. Washington, can be scaled to study and enjoy 
cloud scenery.” (Starr King.) 

Chocorua, the blameless prophet-chief of the Sokokis Indians, was pursued to this 
lofty peak by a white hunter, who was determined to kill him for the sake of the 
scalp-money (the colonies gave large bounties for Indian scalps). The chief 
pleaded for quarter, speaking of his quiet life in which he had never harmed 
the colonists ; but when his pursuer refused to hear, and drew near to put him to 
death, the noble Chocorua cast one long, lingering look over the fair lands of his 
hunted people, and lifting up his arms invoked a solemn and terrible curse upon 
the country in which the English were swarming. He then leaped boldly over 
the tremendous precipice, and was dashed in pieces on the rocks below. Malig¬ 
nant and fatal diseases among the cattle, and other fell signs long troubled the 
towns about the mountain, while strange legends arose, and the baleful effects 
were for many years attributed to the merited curse of Chocorua. 


33. The White Mountains and North Conway. 

New York to the White Mts. (a.) By Route 24, through New Haven, Springfield, 
and Wells River, to Littleton (whence stages run to the Profile House, 341 M. 
from N. Y.), and the Twin Mt. House (338 M. by R. R. from N. Y.). Stages from 
the Twin Mt. House to the Crawford House (9 M.) 

(b.) By steamer to New London, thence by Route 12 to Amherst, Brattleboro, 
and Wells River, — thence to the Mts. as in (a). v 

(c.) By New London, Norwich, Worcester, and Nashua (Route 13), to Concord, 
and thence by Route 39. Or by the preceding way as far as Weirs, whence Lake 



222 Route 33. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND N. CONWAY. 


Winnepesaukee (Route 32) is crossed to Wolfboro', and Route 31 is followed to 
N. Conway. Many tourists prefer to take the night train or boat to Boston, and 
make their way thence to the White Mts. by a morning train. 

Boston to the White Mts. (d.) By route 31, through Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, 
and Portsmouth, to N. Conway. By this route the distance from Boston to N. 
Conway is 137 M. ; to the Crawford House, 162 M. ; to the Glen House, 157 M. 

(e.) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and Concord, 
to Weirs, Plymouth, and the Twin Mt. House. Or by crossing Lake Winne¬ 
pesaukee from Weirs to Wolfboro, reach N. Conway by Route 31 (or by the stage- 
route from Centre Harbor). 

(/) By Route 31 to Wolfboro, thence crossing Lake Winnepesaukee to Weirs, 
and following Route 30 to Plymouth, Littleton, and the Franconia Mts., or to the 
Twin Mt. and Crawford House. 

( g .) By Route 38 to Alton Bay, and thence by steamer to Wolfboro and Route 
31 to N. Conway ; or to Centre Harbor, and Route 32 ( ad finem) ; or to Weirs, and 
thence by Route 30, as in (/). 

Portland and the East to the White Mts. (h.) By Route 39 to N. Conway (60 M.), 
and thence by stage to the Crawford and Glen Houses. 

( i .) By Route 40, to the village of Gorham (91 M.); and thence by stage to the . 
Glen House and Crawford House. 

Montreal and Quebec to the White Mts. (j.) By Route 40 (Grand Trunk Railway 
to Gorham, 206 M. from Montreal, and 226 M. from Quebec. 

Albany and Saratoga to the Wtdte Mts. ( k .) By Routes 53 and 28 to Rutland, 
thence by Route 26 to Bellows Falls, and thence by White River Junction and 
Wells River to Littleton and the Twin Mt. House. 

Pedestrianism has never obtained much favor in America, but when the 
present post bellum era of prodigality and pretence has passed away, we may hope 
to see these mountain peaks and gorges enlivened by parties of summer ramblers 
who will gain health and strength from inspiring walks in the pure, sweet air. 
The gentry of Old England, with their ladies, are fond of passing thus through the 
Swiss Alps or the Scottish Highlands, and when the people here shall adopt this 
mode of summer travel, the physical culture of New England will reach a higher 
standard. Many admirable pedestrian routes may be made through the White 
Mts., but the tourist should have plenty of time, and be well and lightly equipped 
(see Introduction, IV.) A good lield-glass will be found of essential service. 


The White Mts. were called Agiochook (“ Mts. of the Snowy Forehead and 
Home of the Great Spirit ”) by some of the Indian tribes, and Kan Ran Vugarty 
(“the continued likeness of a gull”) by others. The Algonquins called them 
Waumbek (White Rock) or Waumbeket-Methna, and the natives had the utmost 
reverence for these mts., believing them to be the home and throne of the Great 
Spirit. But rarely did the Indians ascend the higher peaks, since it was reported 
among the tribes that no intruder upon these sacred heights was ever known to 
return to his people. There was a legend that the Great Spirit once bore a blame¬ 
less chief and his wife in a mighty whirlwind to the summit of Agiochook, while 
the world below was overspread by a flood which destroyed all the people. A 
wilder and more recent tradition is to the effect that the great Passaconaway, the 
wizard-king of the wide-spread Pennacook confederation (who ruled from about 
1620 to 1660). was wont to commune with celestial messengers on the summit of 
Agiochook, whence he was finally borne to heaven in a flaming chariot. Some 
authorities claim that a party of Englishmen visited these mts. in 1631 - 2, but the 
latest historians credit their discovery to Darby Field, who came up from the 
coast in 1642. The Indian villagers at Pequawket (Fryeburg) earnestly endeavored 
to dissuade him from the ascent, telling him that he would never return alive. 
But he pressed on with his two sea-shore Indians, passing through cloud-banks 
and stonns until he reached the last peak, whence he saw “the sea by Saco, the 
gulf of Canada, and the great lake Canada River came out of.” He found many 
crystals here, which he thought were diamonds, and from which the chain long 
bore the name of “ the Clirystall Hills.” Tradition says that in 1765 a party of 9 
of Rogers’ Rangers, retreating from St. Francis, were led up Israel’s River into 
these defiles by a treacherous Indian guide, and all of them died except one, who 
reached the settlements with his knapsack filled with human flesh. It was said 


NORTH CONWAY. 


Route 33. 223 


that this party bore the great silver image taken from the church at St. Francis, 
and several of the early hunters made earnest quest after this sacred relic. A 
short legendary era followed, and then the pioneer colonists began to move into 
the outlying glens. In 1771 the Notch was discovered ; in 1792 Abel Crawford 
lived on the Giant’s Grave ; in 1803 a small tavern was built there ; and in July, 
1820, a party of seven gentlemen slept on the summit of Mt. Washington, and 
gave the names which the principal peaks still bear. In 1819 the first bridle-path 
to the summit was cut, and a small stone hut was erected near that point. The 
Summit House was built in 1S52, and the Tip-Top House was completed shortly 
after. In September, 1855, a small party started one afternoon to walk to the 
summit, and being without a guide became bewildered and lost, and one young 
lady died at midnight from cold and weariness. In the next August, a Delaware 
gentleman started from the Glen without a guide, in the afternoon, and died near 
the summit from exposure to a cold night storm. Late in October, 1851, a young 
English gentleman ascended alone from Crawford’s to the summit, and fell from a 
great precipice into the Ammonoosuc Valley, where his mangled corpse was found. 
For some years the summit has been occupied during the winter as a station of 
the meteorological department of the U. S. Army, and the men on duty have ex¬ 
perienced the most intense cold and watched terrific storms. The thermometer 
(Fahrenheit) has descended to 59 below zero, and the winds have attained a ve¬ 
locity of 100 M. an hour. 

“ The geological features of Mt. Washington possess but little interest.. The 
rocks in place consist of a coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, which 
contains a few crystals of black tourmaline and quartz.” The cone is covered with 
blocks of mica slate. The flora of the upper region is nearly identical with that 
of Labrador and Lapland. “ The period when the White Mts. ceased to be a group 
of islands, or when, by the emergence of the surrounding low land, they first be¬ 
came connected with the continent, is of very modern date, geologically speaking.” 
(Sir Charles Lyell.) Below the broken and distorted stratum of mica slate, the 
vast mass of the mountains is of granite. 

North Conway. 

Hotels. *Kiarsarge House, 350-400 guests, $4.00 a day, — a fine structure, 
with extensive parlors and dining-room, and a broad view from the central tower ; 
* Sunset Pavilion, opposite the Episcopal church ; McMillan House, S. of the vil¬ 
lage ; Washington House ; Eastman House ; N. Conway House, in the village ; 
Intervale House, about 2 M. N.,near Mt. Kiarsarge. There are over20large sum¬ 
mer boarding-houses in and around N. Conway, most of which are comfortable 
and quiet. Their prices range from $7.00 to $12.00 a week. 

Railroads. The Eastern Railroad (see Route 31) runs two express trains each 
way daily (through the summer) between Boston and N. Conway, in 5 hours. 
Distance, 137 M. ; fare, $5.01. The trains leave Boston (time-table of 1872) at 
8.10 A. M. and 2.40 P. M.,and are provided with Pullman parlor-cars. The Port¬ 
land and Ogdensburg Railroad runs three trains daily each way (through the. sum¬ 
mer) between Portland and N. Conway. Distance 60 M. , time 2j-3 hours (see Route 
39). This line connects at Portland with steamers for Boston, and trains run W. from 
N. Conway for 12 M., to Sawyer’s Rock, on the road to the White Mt. Notch. 

Stages leave. N. Conway for the Crawford House and the Glen House (connect¬ 
ing for Franconia and Gorham) at 8 A. M. and 2 P. M. To the Glen House, 20 M., 
in 5 hours ; fare, $3.00 ; to the Crawford House, 25 M., in 6-7 hours ; fare, $3.50. 
Daily stages leave W. Ossipee for Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnepesaukee. 
i Fare, $3.50. 

Post Office and telegraph facilities are found in the village ; carriage-s may be 
obtained at various livery-stables ; there are several stores where most necessary 
articles may be obtained ; and there are three churches, Bapt., Cong., and Epis. 

North Conway is a pretty village, largely composed of hotels and sum¬ 
mer boarding-houses, situated on a natural terrace 30 ft. above the inter¬ 
vales of the Saco River, lyhich is about \ M. distant. “ On the W., the 
long and noble Mote Mt. guards it; on the E., the rough, less lofty, and 
bending Rattlesnake Ridge helps to wall it in, — unattractive enough in the 




224 Route 33. 


NORTH CONWAY. 


ordinary daylight, hut a great favorite of the setting sun, which delights to 
glorify it with Tyrian drapery. On the S. W., Choeorua manages to get j 
a peep of its lovely meadows. Almost the whole line of the White Mts. j 
proper, crowned in the centre by the dome of Mt. Washington, closes the j 
view on the N. W. and N., — only 12 or 15 M. distant by the air. Mt. j 
Washington.does not seem so much to stand up, as to lie out at ease along j 
the North. The leonine grandeur is there, but it is the lion not erect, but j 
couchant, a little sleepy, stretching out his paws and enjoying the sun. 

“The distinction of N. Conway is, that it is a large natural poem in i 
landscape, — a quotation from Arcadia, or a suburb of Paradise. And j 
then the sunsets of N. Conway ! Coleridge asked Mont Blanc if he j 
had ‘ a charm to stay the morning star in his steep course.’ It is time for 
some poet to put the question to those bewitching, elm-sprinkled acres ( I 
that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, j 
upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, j \ 
it is not Italian, for the basis of its beauty is pure blue, and the skies of 
Italy are not nearly so blue as those of New England. One sees more| 
clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, than in the com-| 
pass of an Italian year.” (Starr King.) 



Mount Kiarsarge, or Pequawket , is 3 M. from the village, and attains; 
a height of 3,367 ft. above the sea. A bridle-path (horses $ 2.00 and guides I j 
$ 2.00 each) has been made to the summit, on which there is a small hotel. I' 
The view from this point embraces the village and the valley of the 
Saco, with the great range of the Mote Mts. beyond, “ its wooded wall 


upreared as if for the walk of some angel sentinel.” In the N. and W. 


is a vast throng of mountains, grouped “ in relation to the two great 
centres, — the notched summit of Lafayette and the noble dome of Wash-* 1 
ington.” Lafayette is N. of W., 28 - 30 M. distant, and is the loftiest o\ 
the Franconia Mts. The view of Mt. Washington from Kiarsarge is one 



of the best attainable, while in the opposite direction, 100 M. S. W. it is 
claimed that “the filmy outline of Monadnock gleams like a sail just 


fading out upon a vast sea.” Sebago Lake, Pleasant Mt., Fryeburg vil¬ 
lage, and Lovewell’s Pond are seen in the S. E. and E., together with a 
vast area of eastern Maine. It is worth while to remain over night at the 



hotel ($4.00 a day), to enjoy the gorgeous sunrise and sunset. 


The Ledges are 3 M. from the village, beyond the Saco, where Mote Mt. 
terminates in cliffs ranging from 100 to 960 ft. in height, and extending 
nearly 5 M. The river is shallow and must be forded, as the fierce spring 
floods render bridges impossible. A curious formation of white rock 
(looking like a horse dashing up) which was once visible on the cliffs (parts 
of it are still seen from N. Conway), has caused the name of White Horse 
Ledge to be applied to a part of these cliffs. The Cathedral is a 
singular cavity in the rock (100 ft. above the river and easily reached) 20 













































































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NORTH CONWAY. 


Route 33. 225 


ft. wide, 40 ft. long, and 60 ft. high, where the ledge bends over in an 
arch above, and several tall trees form the outer wall. “ And truly the 
waters, frosts, and storms that scooped and grooved its curves and niches, 
seem to have combined in frolic mimicry of Gothic art. The whole front 
of the recess is shaded by trees, which kindly stand apart just enough to 
frame off Kiarsarge in lovely symmetry, — so that a more romantic rest¬ 
ing-place for an hour or two in a warm afternoon can hardly be imagined.’’ 
Below the Cathedral is * Echo Lake, a beautiful little loch under the 
shadow of the cliffs, which throw back an echo over its tranquil waters. 
A little way N. of the Cathedral is a fine double fall, above and below 
which are several deep basins in the solid rock, filled with sparkling 
water, one of which is known as Diana's Bath. 

The Artists' Falls are in the forest 1| M. E. of the village, and, though 
insignificant in themselves, are in combination with beautiful group¬ 
ings of rock and woodland scenery. The Artists' Ledge is some distance 
S. of N. Conway, and commands noble * views of the village and valley 
with Mt. Washington looming far above and beyond them. Chocorua is 
seen in the S. E. across the level and luxuriant valley in which glimpses 
are gained of the Swift and the Saco Rivers. 

Excursions are made from N. Conway to Thom Hill, 8 M. ; Dundee, 
10 M.; Sligo, 13 M.; Jockey Cap Mt. and Lovewell’s Pond, in Fryeburg, 
11-13 M.; Mount Chocorua, 18 M.; Goodrich and Jackson Falls, 6-9 

H. ; “ around the square,” a favorite drive near Mt. Kiarsarge, 5 M.; and 
up the narrow Western valley to Swift River Falls, 18 M., with Chocorua 
on the 1., Mote and Bear Mts. on the r., and Passaconaway in front. 
Champney's Falls are visited by this road, and are very beautiful in high 
water. 

* N. Conway to the Glen House and Gorham. 

Soon after leaving the village, the Cathedral Woods and Mr. Bigelow’s 
elegant cottage are passed on the r. and fine views are afforded of the 
upper intervales undisfigured by railway trestles and embankments. Mt. 
Kiarsarge, on the r., appears in constantly changing forms, as the Inter¬ 
vale and Pequawket Houses are passed, and opposite the Kenison House 
is a foot-path by which this “ charming pyramid ” is sometimes ascended. 
After the road crosses the East Branch of the Saco it bends to the W. 
and affords a comprehensive view of the Conway valley. Shortly after 
passing Stilphen’s (under Cedar Mt.) a fine retrospective view of Kiar¬ 
sarge is afforded. Thorn Mt. is now seen on the r. and Iron Mt. on the 

I. (in advance), and the road passes over Goodrich Falls, which maybe 
viewed from the rocks on the r. bank, or, better still, from the shore 
below (short but steep path). These falls are on the Ellis River, and are 
the heaviest in the mts. As the stage now passes along the Ellis River 
frequent glimpses of the mts. appear, and Jackson City is soon reached. 

10* O 







226 Route 33. 


GLEN HOUSE. 


This “ city ” has two hotels, the Jackson House .and Them Mt. House 
($10.00 a week), with four or five dwellings and a Baptist church. 

The Jackson people became discontented during the Secession War, on account 
of crushing taxes, and after some acts of violence on their part, it was iound 
necessary to occupy the place with U. S. troops, who were quartered in the church. 
The town was settled in 1778, and in 1790 came Capt. Pinkham and five families 
on snow-shoes and sledges. Shortly after, Daniel Pinkham built a rude road 
through the notch which still bears his name, and the little settlement was called 
New Madbury. In 1800 this name was changed to Adams, and in 1S29, when 
Adams and Jackson were candidates for the Presidency, and the latter received 
every vote (except one) in the town, it took the name of Jackson. 

Many rare minerals are found here, and tin-mines have been worked on 
one of the hills. This central plaza in the city of hills is much frequented 
in summer by artists, trout-fishers, and lovers of quiet and sequestered 
scenery. The Jackson Falls are close to the village (seen from the bridge 
over Wildcat Brook on the r.), and are very beautiful in high water. Iren 
Mt. is 2,900 ft. high and looms up on the 1., while Tin Mt. is on the r. 
Eagle Mt. on the N. is rounded on the r. after leaving the village. The 
road now ascends through the thickening forest with the Ellis River cn 
the 1., while occasional glimpses of the Carter Mt. are obtained on the r. 
No houses are seen in this desolate pass, and 7 M. beyond Jackson the 
path to the Glen Ellis Fall is seen on the r. 4-5 M. beyond (with occa¬ 
sional glimpses of Tuckerman’s Ravine and the slopes of Mt. Washing¬ 
ton), the spacious * Glen House is reached. This hotel accommodates 
500 guests ($4.50 a day), keeps a band of music through the summer, and 
has a parlor and dining-room, each of which is 100 by 45 ft. in dimensions. 
“ The Glen House is at the very base of the monarch, and Adams, Jeffer¬ 
son, Clay, and Madison bend around towards the E. with no lower hills 
to obstruct the impression of their height.” The Glen is 1,632 ft. above 
the sea, and 830 ft. above Gorham, and is watered by Peabody River and 
surrounded by lofty peaks. On the E. is the long dark ridge of the 
forest-covered Carter Mt., and on the W. is the noble brotherhood of the 
five chief peaks of New England. Mt. Madison (5,361 ft.) is 4 M. N. W. 
in an air-line, and next in the majestic group comes the sharp and sym¬ 
metrical pyramid of Mt. Adams (5,800 ft.). The massive crest of Mt. 
Jefferson (5,700 ft.) comes next, then Mt. Clay (5,400 ft.), and S. E. of 
the hotel the summit of Mt. Washington (6,285 ft.) is seen peering over 
lofty spurs and secondary peaks. “ MAJ. Clay Washington ” is a for¬ 
mula which fixes in the mind the order of these mountains. A better view 
is obtained by ascending for a few hundred feet the mt. behind the hotel. 

Thompson’s Falls are about 2 M. S. W. of the Glen House, and a 
guide-board on the 1. shows the point where the N. Conway road is 
quitted, and a forest-path is entered. The falls are £ M. from the road, 
and the brook may be followed up for a considerable distance, the walk 
affording grand retrospective views of Mt. Washington and Tuckerman’s 


GORHAM. 


Route, 33. 227 


Ravine. Not far from these falls is the quiet and secluded basin called 
the Emerald Pool. 

The * Crystal Cascade is gained by a path leading from the road into 
the forest to the 1., about 1 M. beyond Thompson’s Falls. There is about 
J hour of continuous ascent to the fall, which is near the mouth of Tuck- 
erman’s Ravine, and is best seen from a high and moss-covered ledge 
opposite. 

“ Down it comes, leaping, sliding, tripping, widening its pure tide, and then 
gathering its thin sheet to gush through a narrowing pass in the rocks, — all the 
way thus, from under the sheer walls of Tuckerman’s Ravine, some miles above, 
till it reaches the curve opposite the point on which we stand, and winding 
around it, sweeps down the bending stairway, shattering its substance into ex¬ 
quisite crystal, but sending off enough water to the right side of its path to slip 
and trickle over the lovely, dark-green mosses that cling to the gray and purple 
rocks. We never look at the Crystal Cascade without revering and rejoicing over 
the poetry with which nature invests the birth of so common a thing as water.” 

Along and difficult ascent along the brook-bank leads into Tuckerman’s Ravine. 
The Cascade falls about 80 ft. 

The * Glen Ellis Fall is about 4 M. from the Glen House, and is 
gained by a plank-walk turning to the 1. from the N. Conway road into 
the forest. This is the finest fall in the mts., and the Ellis River here 
plunges down 60 ft. in one thick white mass, half sunk in a deep channel 
which it has cut in the cliff. The steep fall of 60 ft. is prefaced by a 
descent of 20 ft. at a sharp angle. From the top of the cliff one sees 
“ the slide and foam of the narrow and concentrated cataract to where it 
splashes into the dark green pool, 100 ft. below.” A better view of this 
“ heart of mt. wildness ” is gained by descending a long series of rude 
steps to the edge of the pool below the fall. “ It is feminine and maid¬ 
enly grace that is illustrated by the Crystal Cascade ; it is masculine 
youth, the spirit of heroic adventure, that is suggested by this stream.” 

The Garnet Pools are 1 M. N. of the Glen House, near the Gorham 
road, and show some curious rock-carving in the bed of the Peabody 
River. About 1| M. beyond, by crossing the bridge to the 1., the point 
is reached (near a farmhouse) where the singular appearance of a dis¬ 
torted human face is seen on a peak of Imp Mt. Gorham is 8 M. N. E. 
of the Glen House, with which it is connected by semi-daily stages (fare, 
$1.50) running down the valley of the Peabody River, with Imp Mt. and 
Mts. Moriah and Surprise on the r. 

Gorham. 

Hotels. Gorham Hoxise ; Eagle House ; the great Alpine House was burned, 
in October, 1S72. 

Stages to the Glen House semi-daily. Mountain wagons run frequently, but 
irregularly, by the Cherry Mt. road to the Crawford and Mt. Washington Houses. 

K ailroarl. The Grand Trunk Railway runs to Portland (91 M.) in 4£- 5 hours. 
By taking the train to Northumberland (31 M. N. W.), a connection is made with 
the B. C. & M. and White Mts. R. R., running to Lancaster and Littleton (Route 
30). 


228 Route 33. 


GORHAM. 


Gorham is a thriving village at the confluence of the Peabody and An¬ 
droscoggin Rivers, on the N. side of the White Mts. and 800 ft. above 
the sea. It has been almost entirely created by the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way, which has its repair-shops here. “ For river scenery combined with 
impressive mt. forms, the immediate vicinity of Gorham surpasses all the 
other districts from which the highest peaks are visible.” 

* Mt. Hayes is just N. E. of Gorham, and attains a height of 2,500 ft. 
The Androscoggin is crossed near the hotels by a suspension foot-bridge, 
225 ft. long, remarkable as the work of one man (a hard-working villager), 
who conceived the work and executed it alone. He has also made a path 
to the summit of the mt. (the ascent requires 2 hours). The view is thus 
described : — 

“ The rich upland of Randolph, over which the ridges of Madison and Adams 
heave towards the S., first holds the eye. Next the singular curve in the blue 
Androscoggin around the Lary farm, arching like a bow drawn taut. Down the 
valley Shelburne, Gilead, W. Bethel, and Bethel, were laid into the landscape with 
rich mosaics of grove and grass and ripening grain, — needing a brush dipped in 
molten opal to paint their wavy, tremulous beauty. Directly opposite, seemingly 
only an arrow-shot’s distance, were the russet ravines of Moriah and the shadow- 
cooled stairways of Carter.” Mt. Washington is seen to best advantage from this 
point, — “Mt. Hayes is the chair set by the Creator at the proper distance and 
angle to appreciate and enjoy his kingly prominence.” 

* Mt. Surprise is a peak of Moriah about 1,200 ft. above Gorliam, 
lying S. E. of the village, with a bridle-path leading through a fine forest 
to its summit (2^ M. from the hotels.) Horses are easily obtained, but 
good walkers can make the asceht on foot in 90 minutes. This peak 
sustains the same relation to the Pinkham Notch as Mt. Willard does to 
the Crawford Notch. Looking up the pass, Mt. Carter is seen on the 1., 
and the five presidential peaks on the r., with Madison, “ the Apollo of 
the highlands,” boldly advanced. On the N., in strongest contrast, are 
the sweet and fertile lowlands of the Androscoggin, with their peaceful 
farms and pastoral beauty. An almost obliterated old bridle-path leads 
from this crest to the summit of Mt. Moriah, 4,700 ft. above the sea. 
This peak is rarely visited, but is said to command a noble view. 

Randolph Hill is 5 M. W. of the village, and its summit is gained by a 
road that rises 600 ft. on the way. From the road and the hill-top -are 
gained the noblest * prospects of the northern slopes, lines, and peaks of 
the presidential group, especially of Madison and Adams. 

Gilead is 10-12 M. from Gorham, and the drive thither is very 
pleasant, being alongside the river, with ever-changing hill-scenery on 
either hand. The Lead-Mine Bridge is 4 M. E. of Gorham, near an 
abandoned mine, and is celebrated for its afternoon and sunset views. 
This point should be visited between 5 and 7 P. M. Madison, Adams, 
and Washington at that hour become “volcano-pictures,” while the nearer 
summits of Moriah, Hayes, and Baldcap form their heavily outlined 
framework. 


JEFFERSON HILL. 


Route 33. 229 


* Berlin Falls are 6 M. N. of Gorham by a pleasant river-road (or by 
the railway). The Androscoggin River here pours the waters of the 
distant Umbagog and Rangeley Lakes in “a clean and powerful tide 
through a narrow granite pass, descending nearly 200 ft. in the course of a 
mile. We do not think that in New England there is any passage of river 
passion that will compare with the Berlin Falls. How madly it hurls 
the deep transparent amber down the pass and over the boulders, — flying 
and roaring like a drove of young lions, crowding each other in furious 
rush after prey in sight. ” The best view is from the rocks near the stream 
below the falls, while the cataract is seen in mid-career from a bridge over 
the gorge. Near this point is the Berlin Falls House. 

From Gorham to the Notch, 

by way of the Waumbek House, is 32-34 M., and the road is richer in 
scenery than any other in the mts. No stages run on this route, but 
wagons and drivers can be obtained at Gorham. The vast and uncon¬ 
cealed ranges of the five great mts. are seen for mile after mile in their 
most imposing forms. “ First Madison and Adams come into view, and 
we drive directly by their base and under their summits in passing over 
Randolph Hill. ” Beyond the deep ravine in the side of Adams the castel¬ 
lated peak of Jefferson is seen, and soon after Mts. Pleasant, Franklin, 
and Monroe come into view. From Martin’s, 13 M. from Gorham, Mt. 
Clay is visible, and just beyond is the majestic head of Washington. 
Near a little red school-house in this vicinity, George L. Brown painted 
his masterpiece, “The Crown of New England,” now owned by the 
Prince of Wales. 16 -18 M. from Gorham is Jefferson Hill, “ the ultima 
thule of grandeur in an artist’s pilgrimage among the N. H. Mts., for at 
no other point can be seen the White Mts. in such array and force. ” The 
* Waumbek House is situated here, and commands superb views of the 
great peaks in the S. E. “ For grandeur and for opportunities of study¬ 
ing the wildness and majesty of the sovereign range, the Cherry Mountain 
route is without a rival in New Hampshire,” said Thomas Starr King, the 
gifted Unitarian divine, who wrote the admirable book called “ The White 
j Hills.” Mr. King died at San Francisco in 1864, and his noblest (visible) 
j monument is Mt. Starr King, E. of Jefferson. From the hotel or village 
» the bold and majestic White Mts. loom up in the S. E., and a field-glass 
I shows the trains moving up Mt. Washington, and the hotels on its sum- 
i init. Cherry Mt. fills the S., while in the S. W. is the Franconia Range, 
with Lafayette proudly pre-eminent. In the W. are the pleasant meadows 
which border the Connecticut River, and beyond them some of the 
Vermont hills are seen. Jefferson Hill- is 7 M. from Lancaster, 10 M. 
from Whitefield ; 15 M. from Dalton ; and 33 M. from the Profile House. 

The road to the Notch (16 M. distant) runs S. from the Waumbek 





230 Routs 33. 


UPPER BARTLETT. 


House, and “for 5 M. from this point over the Jefferson meadows, in 
travelling towards the Notch, we ride in full view of every summit of the 
chain, seeing Washington in the centre dominant over all.” The passage 
of Cherry Mt. is effected by a rough and tedious road, and the White Mt. 
House is reached, after which the new Fabyan House is passed, the 
Ammonoosuc River is crossed, and the carriage reaches the Crawford 
House. 

There is a shorter road than this, between Gorham and the Notch, and 
travellers who wish to go by Jefferson Hill should have the fact under¬ 
stood. This route can be taken from the Glen House, without going to 
Gorham, by turning to the 1. from the Gorham road about 2J M. N. of 
the Glen House, passing around the base of Madison, and entering the 
Cherry Mt. road near Randolph Hill. 

H. Conway to the Notch. 

The route is the same as that to the Glen House as far as Bartlett 
Corner, where the Notch road diverges to the W., and crosses in succes¬ 
sion the Ellis River, the Rocky Branch, and the Saco River. The latter 
stream is followed up to its birthplace, leading, at first, through a glen 
between the Mote Mts. on the 1. and Stanton Mt. on the r. After cross¬ 
ing the Rocky Branch, the White Ledge is rounded on the r. at the E. 
end of Stanton Mt. Mt. Carrigain looms up far ahead with its triple peaks 
(the highest of which rises 4,800 ft.), and the road passes over narrow 
intervales, with a fine retrospect of Kiarsarge. The Chapel of the Hills 
(a neat little church dedicated in 1854) is passed on the 1., and then the 
Upper Bartlett House, where passengers by the morning stages take 
dinner. This rude glen was settled in 1777, and in 1790 was named in 
honor of Josiah Bartlett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and 
at that time President of N. H. The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad 
is now being built through the Notch, and will, at no distant day, meet 
the section of track which is being laid from St. Johnsbury (Vermont) 
towards the mts. Trains will run in the summer of 1873, from Portland 
and N. Conway to Upper Bartlett. Its temporary terminus is near the 
great ledge running out to the road (on the 1.), known as Saivyer's Rock. 

A solitary hunter named Nash, while chasing a moose on Cherry Mt., saw the 
Notch opening through the mts.. and entered and explored it. He conceived that 
a road could be made through this pass to connect the upper Coos country with 
the coast, with which its communication was then made by a long detour around, 
the mts. He reported his discovery to Gov. Wentworth (in 1773), who told him 
that if he would get a horse through the pass, he would give him a large grant of 
land. Nash then secured the aid of another hunter named Sawyer, and they 
hauled a horse through, lowering him over cliffs and driving him through the 
river, until they emerged here. Then Sawyer drained the rum from his bottle, 
and broke it against the ledge, which he named Sawyer’s Rock. A road was 
built “ with the neat proceeds of a confiscated estate,” and the first article of 
Coos produce sent down through the Notch was a barx’el of tobacco, while the 
first merchandise sent up from the coast was a barrel of rum. 


THE NOTCH. 


Route 33. 231 


Rounding Hart's Ledge the road now turns to the N. and crosses 
Sawyer’s River, which has its source in Bemis Pond, 4-5 M. distant, a 
locality famous for trout. Soon after, Nancy's Brook is crossed by a 
bridge thrown over a remarkable ravine 200 ft. long, 20 ft. wide, and 35 
ft. deep. This pretty brook rises in a lonely mountain tarn about 2^ M. 
from the road, and is named for a luckless maiden who walked one cold 
afternoon or night from Lancaster to this point in pursuit of a faithless lover. 
Wet, chilled, and deathly weary, she sat down by a tree near this brook, 
and was there found frozen to death. Just beyond this place, on the 1., 
is seen the grave of Abel Crawford, “ the patriarch of the mountains,” a 
pioneer and mountain-guide of many years ago. After passing the Mt. 
Crawford House, Mts. Crawford and Resolution and the Giant’s Stairs 
are seen on the r., the latter towering in broken masses to the height of 
5,500 ft. The forest now closes in on the road, which crosses the Saco 
near the foot of the Giant’s Stairs, and recrosses it about a mile beyond, 
with a fine view up the long, deep gorge to the r. Turning now to the 
N. W. the road enters the Notch, with the vast mass of Mt. Webster on 
the r., towering to a height of 4,000 ft., and Willey Mt. on the 1. Passing 
over the tree-grown fragments of the mt. which have fallen in long-past 
avalanches, the Willey House is reached. 

The great amount of travel through the Notch in winter, caused by the Coos 
farmers carrying their produce to the eastern towns, rendered a hotel here very 
desirable. So this house was built about 1820 (Spaulding says in 1793), and was 
occupied m 1825 by Mr. Willey. In August, 1826, after a long drought the mts. were 
assailed by a furious storm, which caused the river to rise rapidly, and during the 
night an enormous mass of earth, rocks, and trees slid from Mt. Willey into the 
valley. This avalanche was split by a sharp ledge back of the house, and flowed 
on both sides without harming it. But the family had left the house (probably 
fearing the swelling torrent of the Saco), and, being somewhere in the track of the 
slide, every person was killed. Mr. and Mrs. Willey and their 5 children, with 2 
hired men, died on that fatal night, and 6 of the bodies were found, sadly muti¬ 
lated. The house has been occupied since 1827, and is shown to visitors for a 
small fee. During storms rocks are sometimes seen plunging down from the 
opposite cliffs of Mt. Webster. In 1746, when a party of Rangers were marching 
through a valley near the more southerly of the White Mts. they were alarmed by 
sounds like volleys of musketry among the defiles. Skirmishing parties of scouts 
were sent in, who discovered that the noise was caused by falling rocks. 

After leaving the Willey House, the road ascends slowly for 3 M., 
passes through the narrow Gate of the Notch, and stops at the * Crawford 
House. This is a large and elegant summer hotel, with accommodations 
for 250 guests, at $ 4.50 a day. It is situated on a plateau 2,000 ft. above 
the sea, and faces the Notch. Near the house are two springs within 
stone’s-throw of each other, the waters of one of which pass to the sea by 
the Connecticut River, while the other empties into the Saco, and reaches 
the ocean on the coast of Maine. There is a pretty lakelet near the Gate 
of the Notch, whence flows the young Saco River. 

Mt. Willard is easily ascended from this point by a carriage-road 2 M. 
long, and the walk upward through this forest avenue is full of pleasure. 


232 Route 33. 


CRAWFORD HOUSE. 


The * * view down the Notch is wonderful, embracing two Titanic mt. 
walls, beginning with Webster on the 1. and Willey on the r., and running 
S. for leagues, with haughty Chocorua, 18-20 M. away, closing the vista. 
The highway down this wild pass is marked by a slender line through the 
forest, and the Willey House is a mere dot on its ruin-swept lowlands. 
Bayard Taylor says of this view, “As a simple picture of a mountain- 
pass, seen from above, it cannot be surpassed in all Switzerland. ” Look¬ 
ing off to the N. E., the great peaks of the Mt. Washington group are 
seen, with Clinton first and nearest, and Jackson on the upper end of Mt. 
Webster. “ And let us again advise visitors to ascend Mt. Willard, if 
possible, late in the afternoon. They will then see one long wall of the 
Notch in shadow, and can watch it move slowly up the curves of the 
opposite side, displacing the yellow splendor, while the dim green dome 
of Washington is gilded by the sinking sun ( with heavenly alchemy.’ ” 
(Starr King. ) 

The Flume and the Silver Cascade are visited by passing through the 
narrow and ragged-walled Cate of the Notch, and about § M. from the 
hotel turning into the forest to the 1. by a little brook. A series of long 
cascades lies along the slope above, and near the road is a deep and nar¬ 
row cleft in the rock, through which the waters flow. A long scramble 
over rocky ledges and up the course of the laughing water leads to the 
base of the * Silver Cascade, the finest fall on the W. of the mts. The 
brook falls 800 ft. within a mile, and after a heavy rain exhibits a mag¬ 
nificent effect. Near the bridge it flows through a narrow flume, and soon 
enters the Saco. 

The * Sylvan Glade Cataract is 6 - 7 M. from the hotel, and is gained 
by following up Avalanche Brook (the second which the road crosses S. 
of the Willey House). About 2 M. from the road, in a granite-walled 
ravine, the brook falls 25 - 30 ft. in 4 leaps, and then forms a cascade 150 
ft. long, slipping over inclined ledges of granite into a deep pool below. 
About 1 M. higher is the Sparkling Cascade. These falls were discovered 
in 1858. 

Gibbs's Falls are near the hotel, arid are found by following up the 
aqueduct from the stables, and then the brook to which it leads. 10 -15 
minutes’ walk up stream brings One to a pretty fall of about 30 ft., with 
pleasing forest accessories. 

Beecher's Falls are on the slope of Mt. Lincoln, to the r. of the hotel, 
and are gained by a good forest-path. The Falls extend for a long dis¬ 
tance up the brook, and from the uppermost of them a fine view of Mt. 
Washington is disclosed. The Devil's Den is a dark cavern seen from the 
Notch road, near the summit of Mt. Willard. Pulpit Rock is on the r. 
of the road, near the Gate of the Notch, and several rock-profiles have 
been seen on the adjacent cliff's. 


GORHAM. 


Route 33. 233 


Stages from the Crawford House to Bethlehem, $2.50; to N. Conway $3 50 • 
to the mountain-railway, $ 2.50 ; and to the Glen House, $ 5.00. The latter route' 
runs to Bartlett on the road to N. Conway, and at that point enters the road from 
JSi. Conway to the Glen House. Fare to Boston, by stage to N. Conway and rail¬ 
road to Boston, $8.50. 

The Crawford House to the Profile House. 

Daily stages in 26J M. Fare, $ 4.00. After leaving the hotel, theroad 
enters a dense forest, where it is “ more pleasantly bordered with foliage 
than any other among the hills.” On leaving this forest, a broad upland 
plain is entered, and the stage approaches the great new hotel on the 
Giant's Grave. 

The new * Fabyan House is 5 M. N. of the Notch, and accommo¬ 
dates 500 guests. It was built in 1872, and is 4 stories high, with a 
frontage of 330 ft. This imposing structure is built on the Giant’s Grave, 
a tall mound near the Ammonoosuc River. According to tradition, an 
Indian once stood here at night, and swinging a torch lit from a lightning- 
struck tree, cried, “ No pale-face shall take deep root here; this the 
Great Spirit whispered in my ear.” A tavern was opened here about 
1803, and in 1819 it was burnt, while the same fate befell another erected 
on its site, and Fabyan’s large hotel, at the foot of the mound, was also 
burnt. The new hotel is larger, stronger, and better protected than its 
predecessors, and will probably remain. Ethan Allen Crawford, “ Ethan 
of the Hills,” a gigantic hunter and guide, lived on the Giant’s Grave 
many years ago, and waged war on the wolves, wild-cats, bears, sables, 
and otters that dwelt among the surrounding hills and brooks. 

The view from this point is very fine, and embraces all the presidential 
peaks save one, the summit of Mt. Washington being 7\ M. distant in an 
air-line. The other summits stretch toward the hotel in a long and rugged 
chain. From this point the ascent of Mt. Washington by rail is easily 
made. The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls are 3 - 4 M. from the hotel, by the 
road to Marshfield, and exhibit a beautiful scene, where white waters 
dash down between gray granite walls, and the vast mts. tower beyond. 
The Lower Ammonoosuc Falls are somewhat more than 1 M. distant, on 
the Bethlehem road. The river descends here in full stream over 30 ft. 
of step-like ledges, but the natural beauty of the scene has been marred 
by the intrusion of a large lumber-mill. 

The White Mt. House ($ 2.50 a day) is an old and well-famed hotel at 
the junction of the Cherry Mt. and Bethlehem roads, less than 1 M. N. 
W. of the great Fabyan House. The vicinity abounds in pleasant walks, 
especially those along the Ammonoosuc, while the sunset views from the 
hills are of famed attractiveness. 

The * Twin Mt. House is 5 M. westward from the Fabyan House, and 
is a favorite new hotel, under the care of the Messrs. Barron, proprietors 
of the White River Junction and Crawford Houses. It is pleasantly 



234 Route 33. 


MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


situated on the heights above the Ammonoosue River, and looks across' 
the valley to the bold peaks of Twin Mt. The branch railroad which 
leaves the B., C., & M. R. R. (Route 30) at Wing Road, has its present 
terminus at this hotel (it is to be extended, eventually, to the Ammonoo- 
suc station of the Mt. Washington Railway). The Twin Mt. House is 9 
M. from the Crawford House ; 10 M. from the mt. railway; 11 M. from 
the Waumbek House ; and 17 M. from the Profile House. Stages run to 
all these points, except the Waumbek House. 

Beyond the Twin Mt. House the road follows the Ammonoosue River, 
and in about 5 M ascends the rolling ridges of Bethlehem, from which 
fine prospects of the loftier mts. are given. Between Bethlehem station 
(on the branch track) and the village, the stage passes the neat little 
Maplewood Hotel ($ 3.00 a day, $ 14.00 a week). Bethlehem (* Sinclair 
House, and several large boarding-houses) is a pretty highland village, 
which commands, down the Ammonoosue valley, one of the finest distant 
views of the White Mts. This town was settled in 1790, and the first 
comers suffered great hardships, being obliged for months to subsist on 
herbs and roots from the forests and fields. Bethlehem is 5 M. from 
Littleton; 17 M. from the White Mt. Notch; 10 M. from the Profile 
House ; and 22),- M. from Mt. Washington. 

Beyond Bethlehem, the road (a very bad one) ascends a long hill, afford¬ 
ing fine retrospects, and when its summit is gained the great * Franconia 
Range is seen in front. A deep valley is now crossed, the new Lafayette 
House is passed (about 5 M, from Bethlehem), and after a long ascent the 
stage reaches the Profde House (see Route 34), 


Mount Washington. 

Travellers who design to ascend this mt. should be careful to carry sufficient 
warm clothing (shawls, overcoats, &e.), for the air on the summit is often ex¬ 
tremely cold, even in August. Daniel Webster said here, “Mt. Washington, I 
have come a long distance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, and now 
you seem to give me a cold reception.” There are many who will echo these 
words. If the ascent from the Crawford House or from Randolph Iiill is under¬ 
taken, a reliable guide must be secured, and an early start should be made. The 
view from the summit cannot be confidently counted upon, since the mt. is often 
enveloped in suddenly rising fogs, and the days when the l'einote points of view 
are visible are very few. A powerful field-glass will be found of material assist¬ 
ance. 

The older hotels (the Summit and the Tip-Top Houses) still remain on the narrow 
crest, and the railway company lias recently erected a new hotel of considerable 
capacity and with good accommodations. 

The ascent by railway. The terminal station on the plain is at Ammonoosue 
station (small hotel), to which morning and afternoon stages run from the Craw¬ 
ford House (10 M. ; fare, $2.50, there and back, $4.00) ; from the Twin Mt. House 
(11 M. ; fare, $2.50, there and back, $4.00); and from the new Fabyan House 
(5-6 M.). From the opening of the season until July 20th, trains leave Annno- 
noosuc at 10.30 a. m., returning at 2 p. m. From July 20th, until the close of 
the season, an additional train is put on, leaving at 5.30 P. M., and returning at 8 
the following morning (time-table of 1872). The fare is $3.00 for the ascent or 
descent, and $4.00 for both. Tranks must be paid for as freight. 






MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


Route 38. 235 


This railway was built in 1866-9, on the plans of Sylvester Marsh, 
who has since constructed a similar road up Mount Rhigi, by the Lake of 
Lucerne. Ammonoosuc Station is 2,668 ft. above the sea, and the track 
ascends 3,625 ft. in 3 M., with an average grade of 1 ft. in 4J, and a 
maximum grade of 1 ft. in 2§, or 1,980 ft. to the M. The chief peculiarity 
of the track is a heavy notched iron centre-rail, into which plays a centre 
cog-wheel on the locomotive. The steam-power is not used during the 
descent, but the powerfid atmospheric brakes regulate the speed of the 
train. The cars are very comfortable, and the ascent is made in 90 
minutes, during which time it is pleasant to think that, though these 
trains have been running for 5 years, not a single passenger has been 
injured. As the train slowly ascends over the trestles, pushed by the 
grotesque little engine, the retrospect becomes more and more beautiful, 
and a profound and gloomy chasm is passed on the r. The ridge between 
Clay and Washington is now attained, and an immense mt. amphitheatre 
is passed on the 1., soon after which the train crawls up Jacob’s Ladder, 
and stops at the new station and hotel on the summit of Mt. Washington. 

The ascent from the Glen House. Mountain carriages leave the Glen House 
morning and afternoon for the summit, which is 8 M. distant. The fare (including 
tolls) is $ 5.00, and the time of ascent 3 hrs., while the descent is made in hrs. 
The road (built 1855-61) is a noble piece of engineering, winding on galleries and 
long curves, with an average grade of 12 ft. in 100. 

Most of the route to the Ledge (4 M. up) is enclosed by forests, but 
beyond this point the road passes along the verge of the profound hollow 
called the Great Gulf. From this point the * view is superb, embracing 
the Peabody Glen, with the hotel lying like a snow-flake at the base of 
the heavy, green mass of Carter Mt. “ Yet the glory of the view is, after 
all, the four highest companion mts. of the range, Clay, Jefferson, Adams ? 
and Madison, that show themselves in a bending line beyond the tremen 
dous gorge, and are visible from their roots to their summits.” With one 
exception “ there is no such view to be had, east of the Mississippi, of 
mountain architecture and sublimity.” The road now passes along the 
verge of the Great Gulf, with the lofty gray peaks on the r., winds and 
twists over dreary slopes covered with the skeletons of dead trees and 
the flora of Labrador, surmounts shoulder after shoulder of the storm- 
eaten mt., climbs the sharp, steep, supreme cone, and then the panting 
horses stop “ on the main-top of New England.’ 

The ascent from the Crawford House. The old bridle-path (9 M. long) 
offers peculiar attractions, as passing over several noble summits, and horses 
maybe procured at the hotel. The ascent should never be made without 
a guide, since sudden storms or the descending of fog-banks might cause the 
traveller to lose his way and become fatally confused among the ravines. 

Upon leaving the hotel the ascent of Mt. Clinton is commenced, and 
after passing over a rude forest-path for nearly 3 M. the mossy summit is 



236 Route 33. 


MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


reached (4,200 ft. above the sea). A great expanse of blue peaks is seen 1 
from this point, with bright lakes on the S. E., and Kiarsarge, “ the 
queenly mt.,” lifting its pyramidal cone in the same direction. The path 
now descends into a dense forest, crosses two or three bridged ravines, and 
passes around the S. side of the dome-like peak of Mt. Pleasant. A 
path diverges to the summit (4,800 ft. high), whence the old and disused I 
Fabyan trail leads down to the Ammonoosuc valley. The round and 
grassy summit of Pleasant overlooks the whole extent of the valley. The- 
tracks of formidable slides are seen as the path descends to another 
plateau, and, passing Red Pond, clambers up Mt. Franklin. The summit 
(4,900 ft. high) is near the path, and commands a vast prospect terminated 
by Chocorua, almost due S. and 20 M. distant. Between Franklin and 
Monroe the path passes over a narrow ridge which is the water-shed of 
the Connecticut and Saco Rivers. There are one or two dangerous places 
on this thin and lofty escarpment, and on the r. is the deep and terrible 
chasm of Oakes’ Gulf, while the Ammonoosuc valley stretches away on 
the other hand. This is one of the most remarkable points of view in the 
mts. Monroe is now rounded on the S. side, and the rough scramble to its 
E. peak (5,300 ft. high) is rewarded by another vast prospect. Mt. 
Washington now looms ahead as the path descends to the plateau on 
which are the Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, two deep and crystalline 
tarns where the Ammonoosuc is born. M. from the lakes is the bleak 
crest of Washington, and from the E. verge of the plateau is afforded a 
remarkable view down Tuckerman’s Ravine. There remains a sharp 
ascent among the rocks on the S. W. side of the peak, with a rise equal to 
1,200 ft. perpendicular, and then the summit is gained. 

The ascent from Randolph Hill is only practicable for strong and 
practised pedestrians, accompanied by reliable guides. A few such parties 
have accomplished this feat with very satisfactory results. Guides may 
be heard of at the Gorham hotels, — Calhaine is one of the best, — and 
arrangements should be made to encamp over night on the ridge, although 
the ascent may be crowded into a single day. Riding to Randolph Hill 
at early morning, Mt. Madison is ascended in 4 - 5 hrs. by the old Gor¬ 
don path, leading along a brook which flows into Moose River. The 
ravine through which this brook flows is full of gloomy grandeur, and is 
surrounded by stupendous walls of rock. The path leads out on the 
ridge between Adams and Madison. The. latter is rarely visited on this 
excursion, since it lies off the route, but the noble pyramid of Adams is 
crossed, opening a striking * view. On the N. the mts. of Kilkenny, 
Randolph, and Gorham, with the long valley of the Androscoggin, and in 
the remote distance the lakes of Umbagog and Rangeley. The Glen and 
the green wall of Carter Mt. are on the E., while the vast dome of Wash¬ 
ington is uplifted in the S. Crossing now the bending ridge to Mt. Jeffer- 



MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


Route 33. 237 


son, a continual front view of Washington is afforded, and after passing 
over Jefferson the Great Gulf is seen bending around on the 1. Mt. Clay 
is now ascended, and, after a short descent, the long slope of Washington 
is climbed to the summit. 

The Fabyan path from the Giant’s Grave to the top of Mt. Pleasant, 
and thence over Franklin and Monroe to Mt. Washington, is now dis¬ 
used ; while the old bridle-path from the W. slope, and the Davis path 
from the Mt. Crawford House, are but rarely traversed. The railway 
and carriage routes are the favorites, the first being easier and cheaper, 
and the last being richer in scenery. 

The* * view from Mt. Washington is the most grand and extensive in 
New England. In the S. is the Giant Stairs Mt. and the round top of 
; Mt. Crawford, with Chocorua farther away, and Ossipee near the gleam 
of Lake Winnepesaukee, 35 M. distant. S. of W. is Mt. Carrigain, and 
i the noble peaks of the Sandwich Range are beyond, while 100 M. away 
! is Monadnock, “ a filmy angle in the base of the sky.” To the S. W. the 
peaks of Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant, and Clinton stretch off in a straight 
line, while the dark crests of Franconia fill the W., overlooked by the 
bald cone of Lafayette. Across the Connecticut are remote blue sum¬ 
mits of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield and the Camel’s Hump, 70 
;; M. away. Stretching toward the N. W., only a few miles distant, are 
3 Cherry Mt., Mt. Starr King, and the hills of Kilkenny, over which the 
i graceful Percy Peaks (Stratford) are seen,* “ as near alike in size and 
j shape as two Dromios.” Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison loom 
across the Great Gulf in the N. and N. W. Glimpses of the Androscoggin 
are next obtained, and 35 - 50 M. W. of N. Lake Umbagog and the 
j; Itangeley Lakes are seen, with the dim Canadian highlands far to the N. 

I A vast area of the State of Maine is outspread in the E., and it is claimed 
• that Mt. Katahdin may be seen “ looming out of the central wilderness 
| of Maine, cutting the yellowish horizon with the hue of Damascus steel.” 
j But Katahdin is 150 M. distant. Mts. Hayes, Moriah, and Carter are 

I seen more surely in the N. E. The lofty hills over Chatham fill the 
nearer E., and the eye follows down Pinkham Notch to N. Conway on its 
i fair meadows, with Kiarsarge impending above. Beyond are seen Love- 
well’s Pond, by Fryeburg, and the bright Sebago Lake, while the ocean is 
sometimes visible in the remote S. E., merging with the weary horizon. 

* Tuckerman’s Ravine is usually visited from the summit, and is 1| 
M. distant by a difficult path (guide necessary). It is also visited from 
the Glen House (5 M. away), and by a path which leaves the mt. road 2 
M. from the Glen, and runs for 2J M. through the forest to Hermit Lake. 
This is in the vast Mountain Coliseum (so called), whose lofty curving 
precipice-walls reach an altitude of 1,000 ft. or more. Immense masses 
of snow are piled up here, and usually remain until August. The Crystal 




238 Route 34. THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


Stream flows down under this incipient glacier a?id cuts a long arch under 
the hardened snow, through which one can walk lor hundreds of feet. 
The cliffs back of the ravine are striped, after rains, with falling waters, 
called the “ Fall of a Thousand Streams.” After exploring this wonder¬ 
ful abyss, parties sometimes pass to the Glen House by following the 
Crystal Stream, with its many cascades, to the N. Conway road. 


34. The Franconia Mountains and Pemigewasset Valley. 

From New York to Franconia by Hartford, Springfield, Wells River, and Little¬ 
ton ; by Albany, Rutland, Bellows Falls, and Littleton ; by Springfield, Nashua, 
and Concox-d ; or by boat to New London, and thence to Brattleboro, Wells River, 
and Littleton. The connections are frequently changed, and the tourist should 
get a late time-table and railway-guide before choosing his route. 

From Boston to Franconia by Route 33 (stages through the mts.) and Route 31 
to N. Conway ; or by Route 30 to Plymouth (123 M.), and thence by stage (29 M.) 
to the Profile House ; by Route 30 to Littleton (1S5 M.), and thence by stage (11 
M.)to the Pi-ofile House. By either of the latter routes, tourists may leave Bos¬ 
ton at S A. M. and arrive at the Profile House early in the evening. By Route 31 
to Wolfboro, or by Route 38 to Alton Bay, and thence traversing Lake Winnepe- 
saukee by steamer, the tourist can take Route 30 (to Plymouth or Littleton) at 
Weil’s. 

Daily stages leave for the Profile House, from Littleton (11 M. N. ; fare, $2.00) ; 
from the Crawford House (26^M. E. ; fare, $4.00); and from Plymouth (29 M. S.; 
fare, $ 4.00). 

The * Profile House (1,974 ft. above the sea) accommodates 4-500 
guests, and is one of the best of the mt. hotels. Its corridors are crowded 
during the summer with visitors from the coast-cities, and its dining-hall 
is said to be the finest in New England. This hotel is open from June 1st 
until the middle of October; its terms are $4.50 a day, with reductions 
for a long sojourn. 

The* Franconia Notch, is about 5 M. long, and less than \ M. wide, 
and is on the western verge of the Franconia Range proper. ‘‘The 
narrow district thus enclosed contains more objects of interest to the 
mass of travellers than any other region of equal extent within the com 


pass of the usual White Mt. tour. In the way of rock-sculpture and 
waterfalls it is a huge museum of curiosities.” (Starr King.) “The 
scenery of Franconia is more fantastic and beautiful than Dalecarlia or 


Norsland.” (Fredrika Bremer.) 

* Echo Lake is a short distance N. of the hotel, on the r. of the Little¬ 
ton road, and is a calm, deep, and lovely sheet of transparent water, 
encircled by rare scenery. During the day it reflects vividly the sur¬ 
rounding objects, but the later hours of the afternoon are the pleasantest, 
when the visitor can be transported over the quiet waters and see the 
forest-shores and mts. in the flush of evening. Remarkable echoes are 
awakened here by the bugle, voice, or pistol-shots. “ Franconia is more 
fortunate in its little tarn that is rimmed by the undisturbed wilderness, 
and watched by the grizzled peak of Lafayette, than in the Old Stone 
Face from which it has gained so much celebrity.” 





THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. Route Sj. 239 


Bald Mt. s ascended by a neglected carriage-road, which diverges to 
the r. from the road about 1 M. N. of the hotel. The view from the 
summit is pleasing, especially just before sunset, when, besides the noble 
i hills to the N. and the huge, conical Haystack Mt. to the E., a fine south- 
i erly prospect is given, embracing the narrow notch, with Lafayette tower¬ 
ing on the 1. and Mt. Profile on the r. Echo Lake is seen in the nearer 
\ foreground. 

Profile Mt., or Mt. Cannon, is ascended by a steep foot-path S. of the 
hotel, in 2-3 hrs. The * view is of great beauty, including the Bethle- 
j; hem heights on the N., with Haystack, Lafayette, and the Mt. Washing- 
| ton group on the E. and N. E. On the S., between Mts. Pemigewasset 
j and Liberty, stretches far into the distance the fair and fruitful valley of 
!j the Pemigewasset River. On the summit is a rock which is supposed to 
resemble a cannon, and visitors often descend thence to the vicinity of 
the ledges which form the Profile. On the slope of this mt. (and reached 
by following the aqueduct into the woods back of the old Lafayette 
House) is a lively brook which exhibits some fine cascades after heavy 
, rains. Good views of Echo Lake and Eagle Cliff, with the highland val¬ 
leys to the N., may be obtained from the brookside. 

* * The Profile is best seen from a point by the roadside (marked by a 
guide-board) a few rods S. of the hotel. 1,500 ft. above the road, three 
enormous masses of rock project from the side of the mt., in the exact 
I resemblance of the profile of an old man’s face, with firmly drawn chin, 

| lips slightly parted, and a well-proportioned nose surmounted by a mas¬ 
sive brow. It is “ a mountain which breaks into human expression, a 
ij piece of sculpture older than the Sphinx, an intimation of the human 
countenance, which is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out from 
the coarse strata of New England thousands of years before Adam. 
The legend of “ The Great Stone Face,” as told by Hawthorne, belongs 
to this place. Directly below the Profile (which is 60 ft. long) and near 
the road, is the crystal tarn called Profile Lake, or the Old Man’s Wash¬ 
bowl, a sequestered and beautiful sheet of water, from whose bosom is 
obtained a pleasing sunset view of the majestic Eagle Cliff. This is the 
* best point from which to see that lofty and remarkable cliff (1,500 ft. 
high) which projects from the mt. opposite the Profile House. Near 
Profile Lake is the Trout-house, containing many tame breeding-trout. 

Mt. Lafayette, “the Duke of Western Cods,” is 5,200 ft. high, and is 
i ascended by a bridle-path diverging to the 1. from the road, midway be- 
tween the Profile and Flume Houses (2| M. from each). The path is 
I steep and arduous, but the ascent may easily be accomplished in 3 - 4 hrs., 
with horses and guides from the Profile House. After a long ascent 
through the dense forest which covers the lower slopes, the path emerges 
i (near the bright Lake of the Storm King) upon a bare and rugged tract 





240 Route 34. THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


which affords an extensive off-look. The * view from the summit is 
broad and beautiful, with the Pemigewasset valley as its most pleasing 
feature, stretching S. to Plymouth (20 M. distant). The clustering j 
Pemigewasset Mts. are seen in the S. W.; “ but the lowlands are the 
glory of the spectacle which Lafayette shows his guests. The valleys of 
the Connecticut and Merrimac are spread W. and S. W. and S. With 
what pomp of color are their growing harvests inlaid upon the floor of . 
New England!” Mts. Monadnock (90 M.) and Kearsarge (over 50 M.) 
are W. of S., while certain peaks of the Green Mts. of Vermont are in 
the distant W. In the N. W. and N. are the bright villages of Littleton ' j 
and Lancaster, with the rural districts of upper Cods, while the Profile j 
and Echo Lakes are close below in the glen over which Profile Mt. towers. 
The Percy Peaks are nearly due N. beyond the Lunenburg Hills, and 
Haystack Mt. lifts its huge mass close at hand in the N. E. E. and N. 

E., 15 - 20 M. distant, is the great presidential group, with Mt. Wash¬ 
ington nobly overlooking the rest. 

The * Flume House is a small, but new and well-conducted hotel, 5 M. 

S. of (and pertaining to) the Profile House. Mt. Liberty is opposite the 
house, and Mt. Pemigewasset is behind it, while the rich southern valley 
is seen for leagues from this position. The last-named mt. is often as¬ 
cended for a few hundred ft., toward the sunset hour, when “the spurs 
and hollows of Lafayette and his associates are lighted up by the splendor 
that pours into them from the west.” About 2 M. N. of the Flume 
House a succession of pretty cascades may be found by ascending the 
course of a brook which crosses the road. 1 M. N. of the house, by the 
roadside, is the Basin, a granite bowl 60 ft. in circumference and 10 ft. 
deep, filled with clear water. “ The best way to enjoy the beauty of the 
Basin is to ascend to the highest of the cascades that slide along a mile 
of the mountain at the W. Then follow down by their pathways, as 
they make the rocks now white with foam, now glassy with thin, smooth, 
transparent sheets, till they mingle their water with the Pemigewasset at 
the foot, and, pouring their common treasury around the groove worn in 
the rocky roof, fall with musical splash into the shadowed reservoir be¬ 
neath.” 

The Pool is gained in 20 minutes by a path leading into the forest op¬ 
posite the house. It is a basin cut in the solid rock, 150 ft. wide and 
over 100 ft. below the level of the path, with 40 ft. depth of dark, cold 
water. Visitors can descend to the level of the water, where an eccentric 
hermit dwells in a rude boat. A rough path leads thence to the Flume; 
but if there are ladies in the party, it is best to return to the road. 

* The Flume is reached by a road diverging to the 1. a short distance 
S. of the hotel, which runs to the foot of the lower cascade. From that 
point a path ascends by the smooth ledges over which the cascades glide 





THE PROFILE HOUSE TO PLYMOUTH. Route 34. 241 

musically to the entrance of the Flume. After passing the miserable hut 
-which stands at the mouth of this wonderful ravine, the full power of 
the scene is felt. A substantial plank-walk has been built along the 
course of the stream, which it often crosses. The ravine is about 600 ft. 
long, and its precipitous rock-walls are 60 - 70 ft. high. The walls are 
about 20 ft. apart for most of the distance, but approach each other more 
closely near the upper end, where the gorge is narrowed to 10 ft. in 
width, and holds suspended a huge granite boulder. This massive rock 
seems to be held between the cliffs by a most frail tenure, and is “as un¬ 
pleasant to look at, if the nerves are irresolute, as the sword of Damocles, 
and yet held by a grasp out of which it will not slip for centuries. ” By 
clambering along the musical cascade to the upper end of the ravine, one 
can reach the edge of the cliffs above and look down into the Flume. 

Georgeanna (or Harvard) Falls are S. W. of the hotel, and are reached 
by a forest-path that leaves the Plymouth road 2 M. S. of the hotel (guide 
| at the farmhouse). After a long ascent which follows the stream through 
, the forest, the falls are seen, “ making two leaps of 80 ft. each, one im¬ 
mediately after the other, which, as we climb towards them, gleam as one 
I splendid line of light through the trees and shrubbery that fringe the 
lofty cleft.” From the ledge above these falls is gained “the stalwartest 
prospect in all Franconia.” 

The Profile House to Plymouth. 

(Stages leave early in the morning. Distance, 29 M. ; fare, $ 4.00). 
The road leads through the narrow glen for 5 M., passes the Flume House 
between Mts. Pemigewasseb and Liberty, and then descends to a more 
>i open country. The front view is fine, “ so soft and delicate are the gen¬ 
ii 1 eral features of the outlook over the widening Pemigewasset valley, so 
rich the gradation of the lights over the miles of gently sloping forest that 
| sweep down towards Campton ! ” 4 M. beyond the Flume House the 

rugged town of Lincoln is left, with its 32,456 acres of land barely sup¬ 
porting a resident populatiou of 71 persons. Woodstock is now traversed, 
with Black, Blue, and Cushman’s Mts. on the W., and Wanosha on the 
E., beyond which are glimpses of the peaks toward the White Mt. Notch. 
This town has 8 or 10 boarding-houses, whose prices range from $ 7.00 to 
$ 10.00 a week. 

I i Beyond Woodstock a fine * retrospect is afforded, where “ the arrange¬ 
ment of the principal Franconia Mts. in half-sexagon — so that we get a 
|'| strong impression of their mass, and yet see their separate steely edges, 
gleaming with different lights, running down to the valley—is one of 
I the rare pictures in N. H. What a noble combination, —those keen 
| contours of the Haystack pyramids, and the knotted, muscles; of Mt. 
Lafayette beyond ! ” 

11 E 






242 Route SI 


WATER VILLE. 


As Thornton (two inns and several boarding-houses) is entered, the 
river exhibits broader intervales, which become beautiful in Campton. 
The latter village has two inns and many summer boarding-houses, and is 
a favorite resort for artists, on account of its rich meadows, its forests 
and hills, and the distant nit. views. It is still an unsettled question 
whether Campton or N. Conway is the most beautiful of the mt. villages. 
Welch Mt. is a prominent object in the landscape; the Sandwich Mts. 
are seen on the E. ; and Mt. Prospect and Livermore Falls are in the 
vicinity (S. E. and S.) The Devil’s Den is a deep cave at Campton Hol¬ 
low ; the Campton Fall is near the village ; and the views of the Fran¬ 
conia Range from Durgin’s Hill, and of the broad valley from the School 
House Hill, are much admired. Following now the Pemigewasset 
River, with Mt. Prospect on the E., the stage reaches Plymouth, 6 M. S. 
of Campton. 

Waterville ( Greeley's Mountain House ) is 12 M. N. E. of Campton, 
and 18 M. from Plymouth, by a road leading up the Mad River valley. 
There is good trout-fishing in this rugged town (which has but 33 inhabi¬ 
tants), and some very romantic scenery. Portions of the Sandwich Range 
lie in Waterville, forming bold and picturesque mt. groups, while the 
lofty peak of Osceola (4,200 ft. high) is in the N. E. There is a path to 
the summit of Osceola, and the view thence is said to be grand. 


; 


On the S. are the principal peaks of the Sandwich Range, Black Mt., White 
Face, and Bald Knob, with distant views of Lakes Squam and Winnepesaukee, 
the former being about S. W. Looking across the Pemigewasset valley the west¬ 
ern hills and the distant Green Mts. are seen. In the N. W. are the Franconia 
Mts., with Lafayette’s conical peak most conspicuous. The heavy mass of Mt. 
Carrig'ain is close at hand, and nearly N., while farther are the peaks around the 
Notch, with Mt. Washington and the presidential group far beyond. N. of E. 
are Bear and Double Head Mts., over Pinkham Notch, with Mote Mt. hiding N. 
Conway, and Kiarsarge towering beyond, while the eye follows the Swift River 
valley for 18 M. to Conway. Below Conway, and nearly 40 M. distant, is Sebago 
Lake, and 25 M. beyond the ocean may be seen on clear days. 


The Flume, on a brook 1J-2 M. from the hotel, with Horton’s Cave 
and the falls on Cascade Brook, are frequently visited. Adventurous 
parties have penetrated the forests to the N. E. to the White Mt. Notch 
road, while a pass known as Greeley’s Gap leads by a rude bridle-path to 
Sandwich (on the S.). The trail to the Notch (a guide should be taken) 
leads first to Greeley’s Pond, under Mt. Osceola (5 M. from the hotel), and 
then, leaving Mt. Carrigain on the 1., passes through the forest to the upper 
part of Sawyer’s River. The course of this stream is followed until it 
reaches the Notch road, at a point about midway between the Upper 
Bartlett and Mt. Crawford Houses (3 M. from each), and about 15 M. from 
Greeley’s. 









DIXVILLE NOTCH. 


Route 35. 243 


35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Fetch, and Lake Umbagog. 

The station and village of Northumberland (Percy Peaks Hotel; 
Melcher House) is 10 M. N. of Lancaster, and 31 M. N. of Gorham. It 
is near the confluence of the Upper Ammonoosuc and Connecticut Rivers, 
and is connected with Guildhall, the shire-town of Essex County, Vei'- 
mont, by a bridge near the falls in the latter -river. The town was settled 
in 1767, and fortified during the Revolution. Moose, Bellamy, and Cape 
Horn Mts. are in the vicinity, and from this point the ascent of the Percy 
(or Stratford) Peaks is usually undertaken. Passengers for Dixville and 
the North go from Northumberland by the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The line passes N. along the Conn, valley with the Percy Peaks on the 
r., stops at Stratford Hollow, and then at N. Stratford (Willard House; 
American; Percy), whence the stage usually leaves in the evening for 
Colebrook, 13 M. N. E. The road follows the Conn. River closely, cross¬ 
ing the thinly populated forest-town of Columbia, and then, flanking the 
vast mass of Monadnock Mt., enters the pretty village of Colebrook 
(Parsons House, accommodating 100 guests, at $ 7-10.00 a week; Monad¬ 
nock House). 

This town was named in honor of Sir George Colebrook, an English knight, to 
whom it was originally granted. It is the northern shire-town of Cods County, 
which has an area of 1,950 square miles, with a population of 15,580, and a valua¬ 
tion of $4,946,910. Although New England is the stronghold of the Republican 
party, it is a curious fact that Cods and the other three mountain comities, 
Belknap, Carroll, and Grafton, usually go Democratic by fair majorities. Cole¬ 
brook has 4 churches and 1,372 inhabitants. It is said that £ of the potato starch 
in America is made in this town (by 8 factories). 

Excellent trout-fishing is found on the sequestered streams in this 
vicinity. Mt. Monadnock is near the village, and may be ascended by a 
path leading in 4-5 M. to its summit. The Beaver Brook Falls are 
about 4 M. distant, and are well worthy of a visit. 

Dixville Notch 

is 10 M. S. E. of Colebrook, and is reached by a road leading up the valley 
of the Mohawk River, a pretty stream which affords good trout-fishing. 
“The Dixville Notch is, briefly, picturesque,— a fine gorge between a 
crumbling conical crag and a scarped precipice, — a place easily defensible, 
except at the season when raspberries would distract sentinels.” (Theo¬ 
dore Winthrop.) This pass is in the town of Dixville, which has 31,000 
acres of land and 8 inhabitants, with a valuation of $ 20,000. The Notch 
is not a mountain-pass, but a wonderful ravine among high hills, whose 
impending cliffs are worn and broken into strange forms of ruin and deso¬ 
lation. “At Dixville, all is decqy, wreck; .the hopeless submission of 
matter in the coil of its hungry foes.” The first view of the Notch is 





244 Route 35. 


LAKE UMBAGOG. 


disappointing, since it is entered at a high level by the road which has 
been ascending all the way from Colebrook. No mountainous line is seen 
in front, and it is only after leaving the great forest and making a sharp 
turn to the r. and a short, steep ascent, that the high, columnar sides are 
seen frowning at each other across the narrow chasm. These cliffs of 
decaying mica slate present a scene of ruin, transitoriness, and shattered 
strength, that is mournful and almost repulsive. 

* Table Rock is on the r. of the road, and is reached by a rude stairway 
of stone blocks called Jacob’s Ladder, whose divergence from the road is 
marked by a guide-board near the top of the first steep rise. The Rock is 
561 ft. above the road and 2,450 ft. above the sea, and is a narrow pin¬ 
nacle only about 8 ft. wide at the top, with sharp, precipitous sides. 




The view is very extensive from this point. Monaclnock looms boldly in the 
W. with other and more distant summits in Vermont; the Canadian Hereford Mt. 
is in the N. W. ; while Connecticut Lake and the Magalloway Mts. are in the N. 
To the E. are the broad plains of Errol and the upper Androscoggin valley. But 
the most impressive sight is the dreary pass below with its broken palisades seem¬ 
ing ready to fall at any moment. The rock-spires opposite, which are seen from 
the road as clearly outlined against the sky, from this point lose their sharpness 
of form against the dark background of a lofty hill which towers over them. 


Above Table Rock a short path leads to the Ice Cave, a profound chasm 
where snow and ice may be found throughout the summer. The Profile 
is seen from a guide-board on the r. of the road, high up on the cliffs, 
while the Pulpit is pointed out on the 1. Farther on, a board on the r. 
directs attention to the refreshing waters of Clear Spring, and another 
board on the 1. points out Washington’s Monument and the Pinnacle, 
remarkable rock-formations which have recently been developed by clear¬ 
ing away the forests. A sign on the 1. shows the path leading to the 
Flume, where a brook runs through a gorge in the rock, which is spanned 
by a rustic bridge. The flume is 20 ft. deep and 10 ft. wide, and has been 
formed by the erosion of a trap-dike. At the foot of the Notch (which 
is 1 Jr M. long), a board directs to the r. to the Cascades , before which 
is the grove where excursion-parties usually dine. Beyond the grove 
is a neat rustic bridge and seat, before a small cascade, and by following 
a rugged path up stream on the 1. (15 minutes) a cliff-side seat is reached, 
from which a noble series of falls are seen, descending sheer from the 
precipice above. 

The Clear Stream Meadows are below the E. side of the Notch and 
present a scene of pastoral beauty that strongly contrasts with the deso¬ 
late region behind. 

From this point the return is usually commenced, though parties of 
gentlemen prepared for a forest expedition sometimes go on to Errol Dam 
(Errol House ; Akers House) 13 M. distant. A steamer leaves the Dam 
semi-weekly for the Upper Magalloway River, and also for the Lake 
House, in Upton, at the foot of Lake Umbagog. Winthrop tells (“ Life 




BOSTON TO CAPE ANN. 


Route 36. 245 


in the Open Air ”) of his voyage in a small boat to the Rangeley Lakes, 
passing through Umbagog, then over a 3 M. portage, and thence travers¬ 
ing the Lakes Welocksebacook, Allegundabagog, Mollychunkamug, and 
Moosetocmaguntic to Rangeley (see Route 41). From the Lake House at 
the S. end of Umbagog, semi-weekly stages run to Bethel (see Route 40). 

Connecticut Lake {Conn. Lake House) is 25 M. N. E. of Colebrook. 
It is 5-| M. long by 2J M. wide, and abounds in fish. A small steamer 
plies over its waters. 4 M. N. E. through the forest is Second Lake, 2J 
M. long by 2 M. wide, while still farther N. is Third Lake, covering 200 
acres, and on the border of Canada is Fourth Lake, the source of the Con¬ 
necticut River. The latter lake covers 3 acres, and is 2,500 ft. above the 
sea. S. E. of Connecticut Lake the Magalloway Mts. are seen, while 
from its lower end the Connecticut River (“ Quonektacut,” meaning Long 
River, or River of Pines) flows down a long cascade. These lakes are in 
. Pittsburg, a town of 200,000 acres, with but 400 inhabitants. Game 
abounds in the forests, and fish in the streams. 

36. Boston to Cape Ann. 

Trains on the Eastern Railroad from the station on Causeway St., Boston 
(PI. 2). n 

From Boston to Beverly, see Route 37. At Beverly a branch railroad 
diverges to the N. E. and runs (in 18 M.) to Rockport, at the end of Cape 
Ann, and 36 M. from Boston. Between Beverly and Manchester the line 
lies near the sea, and affords frequent glimpses of the beach-cottages and 
tents which front on the outer harbor of Salem. Near Beverly Farms the 
Mingo Beach stretches around a broad cove. Manchester (Manchester 
House) is a quaint little village on the 1. of the line, lying at the head of 
a narrow harbor, and noted for having produced more sea-captains and 
sailors than any other town of equal population in America. Between 
Manchester and Gloucester the line runs through a dreary succession of 
rocky hills. 

Gloucester. 

Hotels. —Atlantic House ; Webster House ; Pavilion (on the beach ; open only 
in summer). 

Gloucester is an interesting city of 15,397 inhabitants, situated on a fine 
harbor opening to the S. W., at about the middle of the cape. It has 13 
churches, 2 lodges of Masons and 2 of Odd Fellows, 8 temperance societies, 
and 4 banks. It has a curious nautical air, from the fact that most of its 
men are engaged in the deep-sea fisheries, and when the great fleets are in 
port the streets and harbor present a lively appearance. Extensive fires 
have devastated the place, and its fleets have often been overtaken with 
disasters, but still Gloucester has increased, and has recently attained the 
distinction of a city. There are some very neat church and school build- 




246 Route 36. 


GLOUCESTER. 


ings, and the City Hall is a new and elegant structure of brick, in the • 
modern French style of architecture. The inner harbor is guarded by t 
Ten Pound Island, and presents a rare scene of bustle and activity, being 
the very home of schooners. The outer harbor is protected from the sea I 
by Eastern Point, with its lighthouse and fort, while on the W. shore is 
the Stage Fort (erected during the Secession War) from which is obtained 
a pretty view of the harbor and town. Directly across the harbor from 
the city is E. Gloucester , from whose rugged hills the compact streets, 
with the church-spires and the Collins School and lofty City Hall, make 
a pretty scene (the best near views are from Rocky Neck). Several large 
summer boarding-houses are scattered over the E. Gloucester peninsula, 
which has wild and rugged scenery on the seaward side. On Little Good 
Harbor is a beach, at the S. end of which are the Bass Rocks, where the 
surf rolls in grandly after an easterly gale. The City Hall Tower over¬ 
looks the pretty suburbs of Brookbank and Steepbank, and views the 
open sea beyond E. Gloucester. Within 5 minutes’ walk of the City Hall 
is Fort Point, a small, rocky promontory covered with fish-flakes, with 
the remains of an old fort on its highest point. Near by (and 3 minutes’ 
walk from the Atlantic House) is Crescent Beach, facing the surf from 
the inner harbor ^nd partly occupied by the Pavilion House, of which 
Lady E. S. Wortley said, “ It is very much like being afloat in a line-of- 
battle ship, we are so close to the grand old Atlantic.” 

Beacon Pole Hill, close to the city on the Annisquam road, commands 
an extensive and interesting prospect of Gloucester, the bare, bleak hills 
of the cape, and the waters and shores to the N. and S. Beyond the hill 
is the hamlet of Riverdale, which has a church of the 17th century. 

John Murray, the “Apostle of Universalism,” planted that sect in America in 
1770, and preached for several years in this church. A centennial celebration 
took place here. Sept. 20-24, 1870, during which many thousand Universalists 
encamped about the town. In the old Murray Meeting-house is a curious organ, 
which was captured during the Revolution by a privateer. It is 4 ft. high, and is 
played by turning a_ crank, its capacity being 30 tunes. 

- 

The pleasantest excursion about Gloucester is to Norman's Woe and 
Rafe's Chasm. About 2 M. from the city, a small road turns off to the 
1. from the Manchester road, and soon, losing all evidences of carriage- 
travel, runs into a sequestered path in the borders of the forest and by 
the edge of the sea. The dark and frowning mass of rocks soon seen, 
surrounded by the sea, is Norman's Woe, the scene of Longfellow’s poem, 

“ The Wreck of the Hesperus.” 

“ It was the schooner Hesperus 
That sailed the wintry sea. 

“ And fast through the midnight dark and drear, 

Throush the whistling sleet and show, 

Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept 
Tow’rds the reef of Mori nan’s Woe.” 




ROCKPORT. 


Route 36. 247 


Following the precipitous, rocky shore about 1 M. S. W. of the reef, 
one comes to * Rate’s Chasm, a remarkable fissure in the great cliff which 
fronts the sea. It is 6 ft. wide, 40 - 50 ft. deep, and 100 ft. long, and the 
roar of the waves is appalling when they sweep through it after a storm. 
Some distance beyond, on the same shore, is another curious cleft in the 
trap-rock. The ramble may be extended to Goldsmith’s Point and 
its summer villas, with Kettle Island and Great Egg Rock off shore, and 
a large new hotel near the beach. A little to the N. (and near the Mag¬ 
nolia flag-station on the railroad) is a swamp containing the rare and 
beautiful magnolia-trees, whose flowers are out in July. 

“ Around the Cape ” is a favorite excursion from Gloucester, and the 
distance is 12 -14 M. From Gloucester to Rockport by highway or rail¬ 
road, is about 4 M. By diverging to the r. from the main road a shore- 
road (inferior) is gained, which leads to Rockport by Whale and Loblolly 
Coves, passing near Thacher’s and Straitsmoutli Islands, with their tall 
lighthouses. Thacker's Island has two powerful Fresnel lights, in 
granite towers, 112 ft. high and M. apart. There is a tradition that a 
rebel cruiser hit one of these lanterns with a cannon-shot during a dark 
night of the Secession War. 

Rockport (Sheridan House) is a well-named town of about 4,000 
inhabitants, with 5 churches and 2 banks. From costly artificial harbors 
along this rock-bound coast, great quantities of granite are shipped to all 
parts of the Union. 2 M. N. of this village is the summer-resort at 
Pigeon Cove (stages from Rockport station), with the Pigeon Cove, Ocean 
View, and Glen Acre Hotels, and several boarding-houses. This was 
formerly a favorite resort of the great divines of the liberal sects,— Chapin, 
Starr King, Bartol, and others,—and has grown rapidly in popularity. The 
rocky shores furnish an endless variety of scenery, and the surf, after 
stormy weather, is grand in its power. Phillips Avenue and other streets 
have been graded on the heights by Pigeon Cove, and a large village of 
summer residences (called Ocean View) is to be built here. 

From Ocean View, the road runs to Folly Cove, and near Folly Point, 
the N. limit of the cape, to Lanesville, looking across the northern waters 
to the shores of Essex North, New Hampshire, and lower Maine. There 
are summer boarding-houses here and at Annisquam, at the mouth of the 
Squam River. This tidal lagune is now followed to Bay View, with its 
large wharves, and a steam railroad running back into quarries which yield 
granite (of which the Boston Post Office is being built) of a lighter color 
than that of Quincy. On a sightly hill over Bay View is the elegant sea¬ 
side cottage (of red and gray granite), which was presented by friends to 
the Hon. B. F. Butler, Congressman from Essex County. From Annis¬ 
quam to Gloucester it is about 4 M., mostly by the side of Squam River, 
and passing Riverdale and Beacon Pole Hill. 




248 Route 36. 


CAPE ANN. 


Cape Ann was formerly inhabited by a small tribe of Indians, who called it Win- 
gaersheek. It was rounded by Capt. Smith in 1614, who named it Cape Traga- 
bigzanda in memory of a Turkish princess who had befriended him while he was 
wounded and a prisoner in Constantinople (1601). Prince Charles of England 
overruled Smith, and named the cape in honor of his royal mother. In 1625 the 
forest-covered promontory was settled by a colony under Roger Conant, who 
founded here the first Puritan church. Abandoned by Conant in favor of Salem, 
it was soon re-peopled by another swarm from the English hive, and incorporated 
in 1642 under the name of Gloucester, since most of its settlers came from the 
English town of that name. The colonists soon exterminated the“lyons” and 
drove off the Indians. 1692 was “ a year memorable in the annals of mystery,” 
and hundreds of French and Indian ghosts were thought to haunt the cape, and 
were often shot at but never hurt. So great was the panic that two regiments 
from the mainland occupied the cape. With the decline of the witchcraft delusion 
in Salem the superstitious mariners of Gloucester lost sight of their mysterious 
enemies, and the guards were withdrawn. In 1716 the first terrible marine dis¬ 
aster occurred, when 5 large fishing-vessels from this port were lost off the Banks 
with all on board. In 1774 Edmund Burke, speaking of the Massachusetts fisher¬ 
men, said, “No sea but what is vexed by their fisheries, no climate that is not 
witness of their toils ; neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of 
France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise, ever carried 
their most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been 
pursued by this recent people,— a people who are yet in the gristle, and not yet 
hardened into manhood.” In 1775 Cape Ann sent 300 men to the American army 
besieging Boston, and in August of that year Gloucester was bombarded for 4 
hours by the British sloop-of-war “ Falcon.” The minute-men held the town, and 
captured 4 boats, a tender, and a prize schooner with 40 men from the “ Falcon.” 
The ruined town was soon repaired, and with the close of the war, the cessation 
of privateering, and the reduction of the national navy, the fishing-fleets were once 
more manned and sent out. Gloucester had included the whole cape until 1840, 
when Rockport became an independent town. The canal from the harbor to 
Squam River (first cut in 1643) was long ago abandoned as useless. In 1873 
Gloucester received a city charter. 

William Winter, the poet, E. P. Whipple, the essayist, and Samuel Gilman, the 
Unitarian divine, were born here ; also, Capt. Haraden, who, with the “Picker¬ 
ing,” swept the Bay of Biscay and the North Atlantic, and took 1,000 cannon from 
the British on the sea, between 1775 and 1783. Epes Sargent, the author ; Henry 
Sargent, the painter ; and other notables of the same family, came from Glouces¬ 
ter. 

The fisheries around Newfoundland have caused trouble ever since 1585, when 
Queen Elizabeth sent a fleet which swooped down on a swarm of Norman fishing- 
vessels on the Banks, and captured half of them. But the deep-sea and George’s 
Bank fisheries are the noble pursuits of this maritime jieople, who man their fleets 
with 5,000 men, and lose on an average, 10 vessels and 100 men each year. In 
the winter of 1862, 13 vessels and 130 men from this port were lost in one night 
on George’s Bank. 

“ Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George’s Bank, 

Cold on the shore of Labrador the fog lies white and dank ; 

Through storm and wave and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man 
The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 

“ The cold North light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms 
Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; 

Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, 

They laugh to scorn the slaver s threat against their rocky home ” 

(John G. Whittier.) 


37. Boston to Portland and St. John. 

This is the most interesting and easy of the routes to Maine and the Maritime 
Provinces. No change of cars is necessary between Boston and Bangor, since 
the Eastern Railroad cars pass on to the rails of the Maine Central Railway at 
Portland and are carried through to Bangor. At the latter city the traveller -gets 



EVERETT. 


Route 37. 249 


on tlie train of the European and North American Railway, which passes through 
to St. John. Bos on to Salem, 16 M. ; to Newbury port, 36 M. ; to Portsmouth, 
56 M. ; to Portland, 108 M. ; to Augusta, 171 M. ; to Bangor, 346 M. ; to St. John, 
446 M. ; to Halifax, 636 M. 

The rich and elegant cars of the Pullman Company are attached to every 
through train. This company has over 500 cars (costing $ 18 - 22,000 each) running 
on 90 railroads. They are used throughout the United States, also between Bom¬ 
bay and Calcutta (1,800 M.), and are about to be introduced on the through route 
from Paris to Vienna. The chief advantage possessed by this line is that it runs 
through the large sea-cities of Massachusetts, with frequent views of the ocean 
and the northern bays. Numerous popular seaside resorts are near its track, 
while 9 connecting lines run landward from it. Fares, to Portland, $3.00; to 
Bangor, $6.00 ; to St. John, $10.00 ; to Halifax, $14.00. 

The line nearly coincides with the route of the “Portsmouth Flying Coach 
Co.,” established in 1762, to make weekly trips by way of the Newburyport road. 
The fare was 13s. dd. to Portsmouth and 9s. to Newbury. President Dwight 
(of Yale) rode over this route in 1796, and wrote, “ No part of the United States 
furnishes a tour equally pleasing. Nowhere is there in the same compass such a 
number of towns equally interesting, large, wealthy, and beautiful, or equally 
inhabited by intelligent, polished, and respectable people.” 

Two through express trains run daily each way between Boston and Bangor, 
240 M., in 11 hours. 

The train leaves the terminal station on Causeway St., at the foot of 
Friend St. (PI. 2), and runs out over Charles River on a long trestle. On 
the 1. is the track of the Boston and Lowell R. R., and on the r. are the 
Fitchburg and the Boston and Maine tracks. The heights of Charlestown, 
crowned by Bunker Hill Monument, rise on the r., and the manufactories 
of E. Cambridge are seen on the 1. Off Prison Point (Charlestown) the 
Fitchburg R. R. is crossed, with the State Prison close at hand, and the 
McLean Asylum for the Insane on the 1. This Asylum was opened in 
1818, and has extensive buildings which cost over $200,000, surrounded 
by pleasant grounds. It was named for a philanthropic Boston merchant, 
who gave $ 150,000 for this object and to Harvard University. After 
running for nearly a mile over the waters of Charles River and Miller’s 
Creek, the line gains the Somerville meadows, and crosses the Boston and 
Maine track just before reaching Somerville station. Soon after leaving 
this station, Mt. Benedict and the ruins of the Ursuline Convent (de¬ 
stroyed by a mob in 1834) are passed on the 1. and the train crosses the 
Mystic River, — with Charlestown and E. Boston on the r. 

Station, Everett , whence the Saugus Branch diverges to the N., and 
passes through the suburban villages of Malden, Maplewood, Linden, 
Cliftondale, Saugus, E. Saugus, and Lynn Common. Near the latter vil¬ 
lage it rejoins the main line. The town of Everett was incorporated in 
1870, with a population of 2,222 and a valuation of $2,000,000. From 
this point the track runs S. of E. to Chelsea station. From Boston to 
Chelsea the road describes a semicircle with the centre of the curve in¬ 
clined to the N. W. The road formerly terminated at E. Boston, but a 
depot was built in the city, and a circuitous course was necessary in order 
to avoid the deep outer channels of the Chafles and Mystic Rivers. 
Chelsea and Revere Beach are described in Route 2. The line soon crosses 
11 * 




2o0 Route 37. 


LYNN. 


Chelsea Creek and Saugus River, with the hotels on Chelsea (or Revere) \ 
Beach, on the r., skirts Lynn Harbor, passes W. Lynn, and stops at 

Lynn. 

Hotels. Sagamore House ; Central House ; Lynn Hotel. Horse-cars to Bos- ; 
ton, half-hourly. 

Lynn is a busy city of 28,231 inhabitants, situated near the N. end of 
Mass. Bay, on a harbor formed by the peninsula of Nahant. The greater 
part of the city is on a plain near the sea, while a chain of porphyritie | 
hills on the N. is adorned with many neat villas. Market St. is the main 
thoroughfare, and is lined with .large commercial buildings, mostly of 1 
brick, although by far the greater part of the city is constructed of wood. 
Skilled American labor is employed here to a larger extent than in the 4 
other manufacturing cities of New England (where foreign workmen are 
numerous), and its interests are protected and sometimes over-asserted by I 
a powerful organization called the Knights of St. Crispin. 

The city was founded in 1629, and named for Lynn Regis, in England, the home 
of its first pastor (1636-79). In 1810, it was the 7th town of Essex County ; in 
1820, the 5th ; in 1830, the 4th ; in 1840, the 2d, which rank it still maintains 
(Lawrence being the largest city in the county). About 1750, the manufacture of 
ladies’ shoes was commenced here by a Welchman named Dagyr, and it has since 
grown to vast proportions, Lynn now being the first city in the world in this 
branch of industry. 

The shoe-manufacture is now the chief business of Massachusetts. Of 
8555,000,000, the aggregate value of the manufactures in the State in the year 
1870, 888,399,583, was the value of the boots and shoes made; 833,685,055, of 
the leather; $59,299,423, of cotton goods and threads ; $48,177,135, of the wool¬ 
lens and worsteds ; and $26,767,485, of the iron-manufactures. 

In 1767, Lynn made 80,000 pairs of shoes ; in 1810, 1,000,000 pairs ; in 1865, 
5,360,000 pairs; and in 1868, over 10,000,000 pairs, valued at $18,000,000. In 
1865, there were employed 6,984 men and 4,984 women, in this branch of in¬ 
dustry. 

The * City Hall is one of the finest municipal buildings in New Eng¬ 
land. It is some distance W. of the station, and is substantially and 
gracefully built of brick and brownstone, with a fine tower above it. It 
fronts on a long and narrow Common which extends nearly to the Lynn 
Common station. High Rock is N. of the City Hall, and commands a 
wide view of the city and the surrounding waters. Here was the home 
of Moll Pitcher, a reputed sorceress, and here also, in later years, have 
resided the Hutchinson family of singers. Pine Grove Cemetery is a 
beautiful rural burying-ground on the hills toward the “ Lakes of Lynn.” 

Dungeon Rock is 3 - 4 M. from the city. Here, on one of the highest 
of a series of picturesque, forest-covered hills, it is said that certain pirates 
had their den and treasure-house, until an earthquake swallowed them 
up (in the 17th century). In 1852 a person came to this hill and began to 
dig for treasures under the inspiration of spiritualism and the guidance 
of clairvoyants. He worked here until his death in 1868, meanwhile 
cutting a. passage into the iron-like porphyry rock, 135 ft. long, 7 ft. wide. 




SWAMPSCOTT. 


Route 37. 251 


and 7 ft. liigh. Near this point is the Saugus River, where a forge and 
smelting-works for working iron were erected in 1643. 

The pleasantest part of Lynn is the vicinity of Nahant St. and Saga¬ 
more Hill, where there are many fine villas belonging to Boston mer¬ 
chants. The bank building and the new Universalist Church are in this 
quarter, and are worthy of notice. Lynn Beach and Nahant (see page 21) 
are gained by way of Nahant St., while by following the shore toward 
the N. (a foot-path only) a line of elegant seaside villas is passed, and 
Swampscott is reached. 

Soon after leaving Lynn, the train reaches Swampscott (Great Anawan 
House; Little Anawan House ; Ocean House ; Lincoln House), a fashion¬ 
able watering-place, which, like Nahant, is much affected by the aristocracy 
of Boston. Their elegant carriages and trim yachts are easily brought 
here (13 M. from Boston), and make land and water lively through the 
summer months. Numerous boarding-houses, small hotels, and cottages 
receive their quotas of the guests. The beaches are short and limited, 
but afford safe bathing, while the greater part of the shore consists of 
high bluffs and ragged ledges. Phillips' Beach, about 3 M. E. of the 
station, faces the open sea, and is nearly insulated by Phillips’ Pond. A 
large cluster of cottages is built on the prominent point over Dread 
Ledge, from which the shore trends W., and pretty views of Nahant Bay, 
the peninsula of Nahant, and the islanded Egg Rock, may be gained. 
The yachts and village fishing-smacks are usually anchored off Fisher¬ 
man’s Village and along the S. shore. Beyond Swampscott the train 
reaches 

Salem. 

Hotels. Essex House, on Essex St., $ 3.00 a day ; Derby House. 

Horse-cars to Peabody and Beverly (on Essex St.). Steamers (in summer) 
to Lowell Island. 

Salem, the mother-city of the Massachusetts colony, and a shire-town 
of Essex County, is favorably situated on a long peninsula between two 
inlets of the sea. It has 24,119 inhabitants, and while slowly gaining in 
wealth, it is losing its place among the cities of the State and County, by 
their more rapid increase. The marine aristocracy of the old East India 
merchants and captains still holds lines of stately old-time mansions, and 
the stillness and grave propriety of the city is generally noticed by the 
visitor. The wharves are now occupied by the few coasting-vessels which 
have taken the place of the great East Indiamen which formerly entered 
here. Boston has taken this trade jaway, and the city is now supported 
by its lately developed steam-mills and factories. There is a safe and 
commodious harbor before the city, which is defended by Fort Pickering, 
and good boating is found there. The State Normal School in Salem is 
situated on High St., and has 160 girls in attendance. Instruction of a 






252 Route 37. 


SALEM. 


high order is given here without cost, on condition that each student shall I 
teach (for a specified time) in the schools of the Commonwealth. The J 
churches of the city are not remarkable for their architecture, although 3 
of them are of stone. There are 3 Unitarian churches. 

The East India Marine Hall is on Essex St., near the Essex House, } 
Here are the scientific collections of the Essex Institute and the * ethno¬ 
logical collections of the E. I. Marine Society (organized in 1799 by the ' 
chief officers of Salem Indiamen). This hall was built in 1825, and in 
1867 George Peabody gave $ 140,000 for the promotion of knowledge in 
Essex County, with part of which the hall was purchased. The collec¬ 
tions remain on permanent deposit (open daily, except Sunday and Mon- | 
day, 9 -12 a. M. , and 1 - 5 p. m. ). 

Nearly every branch of natural science is represented in the extensive and well- I 
arranged cabinets of the Essex Institute. The Marine Society’s collection em> 
braces a great number of curiosities brought from remote lands. There are musi¬ 
cal instruments of every form used by the Oriental nations, and a curious array t 
of their weapons of war. Clothing, utensils, and other appointments of Hindoo • 
daily life are seen, and also a large and well-conceived tableau of court-life. In one 
part of the hall is a complete assortment of gods, Hindoo, Chinese, and Poly¬ 
nesian. The models of naval architecture are very numerous, and mark the pro¬ 
gress from the rude Esquimau canoe to the model of the stately and heavily- 
armed Salem East Indiaman, the “Grand Turk.” There are also cabinets filled 
with aboriginal American and Peruvian antiquities, mostly stone implements and 
pottery. The gem of the collections is a * piece of wood-carving attributed to an 
Italian monk of the 14th century. In the concavities of two hemispheres of box¬ 
wood, each lj inches in diameter, he has carved 110 full-length figures, some or 
which are full of expression. One hemisphere represents Heaven, and the other 
Hell. 

Plummer Hall is a fine building on Essex St., which was erected with 
funds left to the Salem Athenaeum by Miss Plummer. In the second 
story is one of the most elegant halls in the State, with white Corinthian 
columns at the sides, and some old portraits, the chief of which is a large, 
full-length painting of Sir William Pepperell in his favorite red costume. 
Oliver Cromwell, Secretary Pickering, Governors Leverett, Bradstreet, 
and Endicott, several early divines and ladies of the colonial era, are rep¬ 
resented in these old portraits. There are three libraries (Athenaeum, 
Essex Institute, and S. Essex Medical Society) in the building, with an 
aggregate of 43,000 volumes, the larger part of which are in the hall. 
The original charter of Massachusetts Bay, given by King Charles I, in 
1628, is preserved here, together with sundry other quaint old documents 
of State. Over the main stairway is a graphic painting representing a 
scene in the witchcraft days. Behind Plummer Hall, and reached by pass¬ 
ing around the building, is the oldest church edifice in the Northern 
States. It was built in 1634 for the First Church, of which Roger Wil¬ 
liams was pastor, and was used for 38 years. In 1672 a new church was 
built, and this edifice was abandoned. It is about half as large as an 
ordinary parlor, and has a gallery, a high-pointed roof, diamond-paned 
windows, and a few relics of the people who were contemporary with it. 





SALEM. 


Route 37. 25 3 


The Old Witch House is on the corner of Essex and North Sts. (a one- 
story shop has been built in front of it). It dates from 1642, and certain 
of the suspected witches were tried in it. Gallows Hill is W. of the city, 
and commands a broad view over the harbor and surrounding country. 
Here 19 persons were put to death during the witchcraft delusion. In 
Harmony Grove Cemetery , W. of Salem, George Peabody is buried, while 
in the village of Peabody (2 M. distant; horse-cars from Salem) is shown 
the house where he was born. The library and collections of the Peabody 
Institute are worthy of a visit (open Wednesday and Saturday). The 
most notable object in this collection is the * portrait of Queen Victoria, 
given by her to George Peabody. It is 14 by 10 inches in size, painted 
on enamel, framed with blue and gold, and adorned with rich jewels. It 
is said to have cost $30,000. 

Derby Wharf is a long and well-constructed wharf on the S. of the city, 
near the great Naumkeag Cotton Mills. It was formerly the focal point 
of the E. India trade, and at its head stands the old Custom House 
where Hawthorne was employed (his birthplace was at No. 21 Union 
St.). The Court House and the City Hall are granite buildings near the 
tunnel, and Chestnut St. is an elm-lined, aristocratic street, which is called 
the finest in the city. In the E. is the broad Common known as Wash¬ 
ington Square, with the brownstone East Church (Unitarian) fronting on 
it. In this vicinity is St. Peter’s Episcopal Church, an old and massive 
stone building. 

Salem Neck is a peninsula projecting from the city toward the sea, nearly unin¬ 
habited, and the seat of Fort Pickering and the Salem Almshouse. The old 
ruined batteries on the Neck were favorite haunts of Nathaniel Hawthorne (see 
“ American Note-Books ”). 

There are in Salem extensive works for the manufacture of railway cars ; also 
for making gunny-bags ; while the Naumkeag Cotton Mills employ a large num¬ 
ber of workmen. Immense quantities of coal are handled here, being landed on 
Phillips’ Wharf, and thence carried by rail into the interior. The city is abun¬ 
dantly supplied with water by an aqueduct leading from Wenham Pond. 

In 1626 Roger Conant left the fishing colony on Cape Ann, and built the first 
house on the Indian domain of Naumkeag.* In 1627 the Plymouth Company 
granted to certain “ knights and gentlemen of Dorchester, and their heirs, assigns, 
and associates forever, all that part of New England which lies between a great 
river called Merrimac, and a certain other river called Charles.” John Endicott 
was sent over in 1628, and founded at Naumkeag the capital of this district. The 
colony was “ called Salem from the peace which they had and hoped in it.” In 
1628 the First Church was formed, and in 1631 Philip Ratcliffe was scourged, had 
his ears cut off, and suffered banishment and confiscation of his property, “ for 
blasphemy against the church of Salem, the mother-church of all this Holy Land.” 
The militant disposition of the colonists was shown by the fact that during the 
first few years they imported £ 18,0(K) worth of furniture, building materials, &c., 
while £22,000 worth of arms and artillery was brought in during the same time. 
In 1629 there were 10 houses here, besides the governor’s house, which was gar¬ 
nished with great ordnance, “and thus wee doubt not that God will be with us, 
and if God be with us, who can be against us.” In midsummer, 163), Gov. John 

* Naumkeag is said to be an Indian word meaning “ Eel kind,’’ but Cotton Mather (who 
is nothing lf'not Oriental) holds to its derivation tom the Hebrew words, Nahum (comfort) 
and Keick ihaven,. 









254 Route 37. 


SALEM. 


Winthrop arrived at Salem with 10 ships and a large number of colonists. The 
lovely Lady Arabella Johnson, the daughter of the Earl of Lincoln, and the wife 
of Isaac Johnson, the wealthiest of the colonists, was the pride ot the settlement, 
and the flag-ship of the fleet was named for her. Before leaving England she in¬ 
sisted on accompanying her husband, — “ Whithersoever your fatail destine shall 
dryve you, eyther by the furious waves of the great ocean, or by the many-folde 
and horrible dangers of the lande, I wyl surely not leave your company. There 
can no peryll chaunce to me so terrible, nor any kinde of death so cruell, that 
shall not be much easier for me to abyde than to live so farre separate from you.” 
Within 3 months after the landing, this brave patrician lady died at Salem (and 
was buried near Bridge St.). Her husband survived her but a month. 

Winthrop and Johnson moved S. to Charlestown, and thence to Boston, which 
soon became the chief town and capital of the colony (see page 7). Endicott, Pea¬ 
body, and others remained at Salem, and built mansions near North River, and 
the former led the 1st Mass. Regiment (organized in Essex County, in 1636) in a 
bloodless and successful campaign against the turbulent Anglican colony at Merry 
Mount (Braintree). In 1661 the Quakers were persecuted at Salem, and in 1677 
the Indians on the coast of Maine seized 20 vessels, mostly from this town, while 
4 vessels escaped by battle and returned to the port, bearing 19 wounded men and . 
several dead. The witchcraft delusion arose in 1692 in the family of Samuel Parris, 
j)astor of the adjacent village of Danvers. His daughter and his niece accused 
Titufya, a slave of the household, of bewitching them, and Parris whipped her 
until she confessed it. Tituba’s husband, under the influence of fear, charged 
certain other persons of the same crime, and Parris proclaimed that “the Devil 
hath been raized among us, and his rage is vehement and terrible, and when he 
shall be silenced the Lord only knows.” The jail of Salem was crowded with 
Essex County people who had been denormced for diabolical communications. 19 
persons were hung on Gallows Hill, and Giles Cory was pressed to death. Cotton 
Mather was a leader in these persecutions, which lasted for 16 months, until the 
government became aware of its error, and released the scores of prisoners from 
the jail. In partial extenuation of this strange delusion, it may be said that Lord 
Chief Justice Hale, Lord Bacon, Sir William Blackstone, Addison, Johnson, and 
other distinguished scholars believed in the reality of witchcraft and the pro¬ 
priety of its punishment by death. Quarter of the population of Salem left the 
town in panic, and after all was over, Parris acknowledged his error, and was 
dismissed by his church. 

In 1774 Gov. Gage ordered the removal of the legislature from the closed port 
of Boston to Salem. In 1776 a British regiment landed here, designing to destroy 
some military stores in N. Salem, but they failed to do it. Four Essex County 
regiments were enrolled in the Continental army, while the fishermen of Salem 
armed their craft and became privateersmen, by whom 445 British vessels were 
taken during the Revolution. After the war, E. H. Derby built a fleet of fine 
ships, and opened the East India trade, which by 1818 engaged 53 Salem ships ; 
and from this era most of the aristocracy of the city dates its origin. 

Salem has given to the State, Senator Cabot, and Timothy Pickering, a Con¬ 
tinental officer, who became successively U. S. Postmaster-General (1791 - 5), 
Secretary of War, and Secretary of State (1795-1800). He was also a U. S. Sena¬ 
tor, 1803-11. Gov. Bradstreet, “the Nestor of New England,” and Gov. Endi¬ 
cott, spent much of their lives in Salem. Gen. Israel Putnam, of the Continental 
Army; Gen. F. W. Lander, mortally wounded after leading in some brilliant 
actions of the War for the Union (1862); and F. T. Ward, commander of the 
armies of China until he was killed in the battle of Ningpo in 1862, were all 
natives of Salem. Also were born here, John Rogers, the sculptor ; N. Bowditch, 
the mathematician, astronomer, and author of “The Practical Navigator”; N. 

I. Bowditch, the antiquarian ; J. Prince and N. Adams, clergymen ; Benjamin 
Pierce, the mathematician ; the eminent merchants, Derby, Crowninshield, Phil¬ 
lips, and Gray ; MariaS. Cummins, the novelist; John Pickering, the philologist; 

J. B. Felt, the annalist; and W. H. Prescott, born 1796, the author of histories 
of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Conquest of Mexico, the Conquest of Peru, and 
Philip II. of Spain, amounting to 11 octavo volumes, and translated into 5 Euro¬ 
pean languages. Nathaniel Hawthorne, one of the sweetest and purest of Ameri¬ 
can prose-writers, was born at Salem in 1804. After graduating from Bowdoin 
College (1825), he settled in Salem, and from 1838 to 1841 was in the Boston Cus¬ 
tom House. In 1841 he joined the Brook Farm' Community, and from 1843 to 


MARBLEHEAD. 


Route 37. 2o5 


1846 he lived at Concord. 1846-50 he was surveyor of the port of Salem, and 
1853- 57 he held the U. S. Consulate at Liverpool. He died at Plymouth, N. H., 
May 19, 1864. The most important of his works of romance and miscellanies are, 
“ The Scarlet Letter,” — a weird and powerful romance of the early colonial days 
of Massachusetts, —and “The Marble Faun,” whose scene is laid in Rome, Peru¬ 
gia, and the Appenines. 

Four branch railroads run out from Salem. 

A line crosses the towns of Peabody and Lynnfield, to Wakefield on the Boston 
and Maine R. R. 4 trains daily pass into Boston by this route, and over the rails 
of the last-named company. 

The Salem and Lowell R. R. (pertaining to the Boston and Lowell R. R.) runs 
from the station near Salem Court House, to Lowell (24 M.). Fare, 80 c.; 3 trains 
daily each way. This line crosses Peabody to Ipswich River, which it follows for 
6-7 M., and then passes through the towns of N. Reading, Wilmington, and 
Tewksbury, to Lowell. 

The Lawrence Branch of the Eastern R. R. runs 3 trains daily each way be¬ 
tween Salem and Lawrence, through the towns of Danvers, Middleton, and N. 
Andover. 

Another branch runs to Marblehead (4 M.), passing the Forest River Lead 
Works. 

Marblehead ( Eldridge House, Forsyth House) is built on a peninsula 
of 3,700 acres, very rocky and uneven. It was incorporated in 1635, and 
a chronicler of that time calls it “ Marmaracria, oppidum maritimum, 
saxis abundans.” Whitefield gazed in astonishment upon its rocky hills 
and said, “ Pray, where do they bury their dead ? ” The town has about 
8,000 inhabitants, and is situated on the side of a narrow, deep harbor. 
It was formerly engaged in the fisheries, but has latterly turned its atten¬ 
tion to the shoe-manufactory. A full regiment marched from this town 
to the Continental Army ; the crew of the Constitution frigate was mostly 
enlisted here ; and it is said that the town sent more men (in proportion 
to its population) to the Secession War than any other place in the 
Union. There are many quaint old colonial houses here, especially the 
bank building, which was raised in 1768 for an aristocratic mansion, and is 
but little altered. One of the churches was built in 1714, and is still 
used for services. 

In June, 1813, there occurred a desperate naval battle off this coast, between the 
American frigate “ Chesapeake ” and the British frigate “ Shannon.” The vessels 
were of about equal size, and the “Chesapeake” had sailed from Boston (with a 
picked-up crew) in answer to a challenge from the “ Shannon.” The latter vessel 
was splendidly handled, and after a few close broadsides, she ran alongside the 
“ Chesapeake ” and carried her by boarding, after a sharp resistance on the decks. 
The American Capt., Lawrence, was mortally wounded and carried below, his 
last words being, “Don’t give up the ship.” The English Capt., Broke, was so 
badly wounded that he retired from the service, after carrying the “ Chesapeake” 
into Halifax in triumph, and being knighted for his gallant achievement. 

Elbridge Gerry was born at Marblehead in 1744. He was a Congressman, 
1776-85, and 1789-93, and signed the Declaration of Independence, but refused 
to sign the U. S. Constitution (1787). In 1812 he was elected Vice-President of 

the U. S. . . „ 

At this town is laid the scene of Whittier’s poem, “ Skipper Ireson s Ride. 
Many years ago Capt. Ireson refused to take off some of his townsmen fi om a 
drifting wreck, because of the expense of feeding them all the way home. On 
his return the citizens tarred and feathered him, and rode him, in one of his own 
boats, to Salem and back, he remaining silent and unresisting. Whence the re¬ 
frain, 






256 Route 37. 


BEVERLY. 


“ Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart. 

Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead.” 

In 1775 this town was only second to Boston in population. The 14th Mass. 
Continental Reg., raised here and in Salem, was one of the elite corps of the 
army, and was called “the amphibious.” It ferried the army across the East 
River by night after the defeat on Long Island, led the van in crossing the Dela¬ 
ware to the battle of Trenton, and escorted Burgoyne’s captive army through 
New England. The Marblehead privateers did great service ; one of them took a 
British ship off Boston, laden with 1,500 tons of powder and other stores. The 
“St. Helena,” 10, while convoying a fleet to'Havana, was attacked at night by 
the British brig, “Lively.” At dawn, after a long tight, she found herself under 
the guns of the line-of-battle-ship “Jupiter.” The captive Marblelieaders were 
put on board the “ Lively,” and 12 days later they rose and took her, and run into 
Havana. The Embargo (1810) ruined the maritime business of Marblehead, and 
at the close of the War of 1812, 500 of her sailors were in British prisons. 

Marblehead Neck is across the harbor (2 M. by road,) and is usually dotted 
with white tents during the summer. Tinker’s Island (seen to the S.)is noted for 
its cunnei'-fishing. Massachusetts Bay was stocked with cunners (black fish) by 
some Bostonians, and these delicious fish have propagated rapidly. 

kowell Island is a small island 5 M. from Salem, which is occupied by a 
hotel accommodating 300 guests. The island covers but 25 rocky acres, and has 
good sea-air, with views of Cape Ann, Beverly, the Satan Rocks, and Marblehead 
with its trim little fort. A steamer runs out several times daily from Marblehead 
(2 M.). 

After leaving Salem the main line passes through a tunnel 600 ft. long, 
and crosses North River on a long bridge, between which and the highway 
bridge, a few rods down the stream, a fleet of yachts is moored for 8 
months of the year. Station, Beverly, an ancient village which was 
settled in 1630, but is now chiefly known for its extensive shoe-factories, 
which are concentrated about the public square near the station. Lathrop 
St. (named after Capt. Lathrop, a native of Beverly, who fell at the head 
of “the Flower of Essex,” in battle near Deerfield, in 1675) affords a fine 
marine promenade, with an extensive view over the bay, and its forts and 
islands. 

Nathan Dane, who resided here from 1775 to 1S35, was an eminent jurist. In 
1787 he introduced and fought through Congress a bill excluding slavery forever 
from the vast domain N. W. of the Ohio River. Robert Rantoul, Jr., a powerful 
and popular politician, of remarkable purity of life and principles, was born here 
in 1805. He filled the unexpired term of Senator Webster in 1851. Dr. A. P. 
Peabody, the eminent Unitarian divine, was also a native of Beverly. 

Station, Wenham and Hamilton. Wenham was settled about 1636, 
and its foundation was celebi’ated by Rev. Hugh Peters, who preached on 
the borders of its lake, from the text, “At Enon, near to Salem, because 
there was much water there. ” The town was called Enon for many years. 
An English tourist of 1686 wrote, “Wenham is a delicious paradise; it 
abounds with rural pleasures, and I would choose it above all other towns 
in America to dwell in.” Wenham Lake has a world-wide reputation for 
its ice, which is shipped to the remotest ports. The ice is kept free from 
snow, and is cut when a foot thick* an acre producing about 1,000 tons, 
which is stored in great buildings near the shore. These ice-houses (seen 
to the 1. from the track) have double walls of wood, filled in with saw- 



IPSWICH. 


Route 37. 257 




dust, and preserve the ice through the heats of summer. Side-tracks run 
to th^ ice-houses by which it is carried throughout this part of the 
country, or to the ships at Boston. Salem gets its water-supply from 
tliis lake (the large reservoir is seen on a hill to the S. E.), and the water 
must be good according to one writer’s & priori reasoning, — “ of the soft¬ 
ness and purity of the waters of Essex County there can be no doubt, 
for its ladies are noted for their bloom and beauty/’ Gail Hamilton (Miss 
Mary A. Dodge) resides in the town of Hamilton (named after Alexander 
Hamilton), a quiet farming village about 1^ M. N. E. of the station. A 
side-track leads here to the 1. to a large and favorite Methodist camp¬ 
ground, where many thousands congregate in the month of August. It is 
1 M. from the station, and its groves are filled with small cottages. 60 
acres of land are included in this As bury Camp-ground.) 

A branch railroad runs from Wgnham to Essex, a small shipbuilding village 
near the sea. Here was born, in 1799, Bufus Choate, a profound and skilful 
lawyer, and a brilliant and persuasive orator, who was U. S. Senator in 1841 - 5, 
and afterwards Attorney-General of the State. 

The main line now crosses Ipswich River, and stops at Ipswich 
(Agawam House; restaurant in the station). John Norton, of whom 
Cotton Mather says “ he spoke like Hortensius, and wrote like Abericus,” 
was the pastor of this village from 1636 to 1652. His colleague was 
Nathaniel Ward, the author of the “ Simple Cobbler of Agawam,” who 
was rector of Stondon Marcy, Essex County, England, until silenced by 
Archbishop Laud for non-conformity. Capt. John Smith, in 1614, spoke 
of “the many cornfields and delightful groves of Agawam,” but in 1632 
a fleet of 100 canoes filled with fierce Tarratines from the Penobscot laid 
waste this fair Indian village and destroyed many of its people. So the 
coast was clear, and John Winthrop (afterwards founder of New London 
and first Gov. of Connecticut) bought the town of the Sagamore Mascono- 
met for $ 100, and settled here in 1633. 

“The people are noted for their hospitality ; in summer the sea-wind 
blows cool over its healthy hills; and take it for all in all, there is not a 
better preserved specimen of a Puritan town in the ancient Common¬ 
wealth.” The chief village is situated on the r. of the track, on both sides 
of the Ipswich River, which is crossed by two stone bridges, one of which 
dates from 1764. The County House of Correction and Insane Asylum 
are located here, and the town has a fine public library, which was given 
by one of its citizens. There are about 3,700 inhabitants in the town, 
which has some manufactures and 3 neat churches. This is the seat of 
Ipswich Female Seminary, an old and famous school “ where Andover 
theological students are wont to take unto themselves wives of the 
daughters of the Puritans.” 

A few miles to the E., down the river, is the North Ridge on Great 

Q 








258 RouteS7. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Neck, and Ipswich Bluff, a favorite summer camping-ground for fishing- 
parties. • 

Station, Rowley (the chief village is over a mile S. W.), a town largely 
composed of salt marsh. It was settled in 1638 by a nomadic church, led 
by Ezekiel Rogers, who had been rector of Rowley in Yorkshire, and was 
silenced for Puritanism (non-comformity.) In 1650 he died, leaving his 
library to Harvard College, and his. estate to the Rowly Church. The 
first cloth made in America was turned out from works erected by these 
immigrants. The line now runs across a wide and desolate moor, crosses 
the Parker River, passes the Oldtown Hills on the r., crosses the Newbury- 
port R. R. (Boston and Maine), and stops at 

Newburyport. 

Hotels.—*Merrimae House, .$2.50 a day; Ocean House. Horse-Cars to 
Amesbury by way of Merrimae St. Stages to Exeter (75 cts.), W. Amesbury, 
Haverhill, and (in summer) to Salisbury Beach and Plum Island Beach. Steamers 
to Salisbury Point in summer. 

Newburyport is an ancient sea-city, beautifully situated on a declivity 
facing the Merrimae River, and within 3 M. of the ocean, which is seen 
from its wharves and house-tops. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, and a 
valuation (in 1870) of $ 7,427,700. There are 16 churches, 4 banks, and 
a daily and two weekly newspapers. The chief retail trade is carried on 
in State St.., while the wholesale trade is on the water-front, which is 
traversed by a marginal steam-railway connected with the Eastern Rail¬ 
road track. Since the absorption of foreign commerce by Boston, New¬ 
buryport has been forced to adopt the policy of the other small cities of 
the coast, and sustain itself by manufactories, while the old marine aris¬ 
tocracy has isolated itself from the new regime. The decadence of the 
city is shown by its decrease in population between 1860 and 1870, which 
amounted to over 500. The streets are generally broad, straight, and quiet, 
while great numbers of shade-trees are found in every part of the place, 
being cared for under the provisions of a fund left for that purpose by a 
public-spirited citizen. The streets which run up from the river are short, 
and terminate at High St., a broad and umbrageous avenue which runs 
along the crest of the ridge and is lined with mansions of the olden time. . 
One of these (near the head of Federal St.) is the home of Caleb Cushing, 
the eminent jurist and diplomatist. Near the head of Olive St. is the 
mansion -formerly occupied by Lord Timothy Dexter, an eccentric 
merchant who made a large fortune by singular ventures (sending a cargo 
of warming-pans to the West Indies, and other speculations of a like 
nature). On High St., near State, is a pond covering six acres, and sur¬ 
rounded by a mall and terraced promenade, on which the Essex County 
Court House is situated. Nearly opposite is the Putnam Free School, a 
high school of wide reputation, and the Roman Catholic Church, while St. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Route 37. 259 


Paul’s Episcopal Church and the graceful Gothic Chapel of St. Anne are 
hut a short distance beyond (on High, near Market St.). The City Hall 
is a large, plain building fronting on Brown Square, near which are the 
North Church, the 1st. Baptist, and the Unitarian (the latter having a 
tall and graceful spire). 

The Public Library was founded by Josiah Little and well endowed by 
George Peabody. It occupies the old Tracy mansion (on State St.) where 
Washington, Lafayette, and other noble guests have been received in the 
palmy days of the place. The two upper stories are now formed into a 
hall, containing about 18,000 books, while on the lower story is a large 
public reading-room (magazines and newspapers). The Marine Museum 
(open daily; on State St.) contains a collection of curiosities brought in by 
the ships of Newburyport. Besides the usual mementoes of distant lands 
and peoples, there are shown some very elaborate and handsome models 
of ships. 

Oak Hill Cemetery is a beautiful rural burying-ground on State St., 
beyond High. It is entered through a noble granite gateway, bearing the 
inscription, “ Until the daybreak, and the shadows flee away.” State 
St. runs out into the country, and is prolonged (under the name of the 
Newburyport Turnpike) through Salem and Lynn to Boston. It was 
formerly the road traversed by the great northern and eastern stage-lines. 
The Old South (Presbyterian) Church is on Federal St., and has long 
since entered upon its second century. In a vault under the pulpit of 
this church are the mortal remains of George Whitefield, the founder of 
the Calvinistic Methodists, who died in Newburyport in 1770. This 
church also has a fine whispering-gallery, only equalled by the one at St. 
Paul’s, London (the sexton lives in the small house next to the church). 
The two-story wooden house back of the Old South was the birthplace 
of William Lloyd Garrison. 

The river and harbor and neighboring sea afford fine opportunities-for sailing 
and fishing, in the summer, which are utilized by a large fleet of pleasure-boats. 
A favorite drive is to the Chain Bridge (about 3 M. up river), a place of rare 
natural beauty, with the large stone mansion, “ Hawkswood,” on one bank, and 
on the other the castellated and far-viewing house occupied for several seasons by 
Sir Edward Thornton, the British Ambassador. Amesbury is but a.short dis¬ 
tance beyond the bridge, while the river-road to Haverhill passes through pleas¬ 
ing scenery. “ The Laurels ” are by the river-side above the bridge, and excur¬ 
sions are frequently made to their cool and sequestered groves. 

The Devil’s Den is an old excavation in the limestone ledges, about 2 M. S. of 
the city (by State St.). Asbestos, amianthus, and serpentine are found there. 
Dimmer Academy is about 3 M. beyond this point, and is an ancient and famous 
school, which was founded and endowed by Gov. Hummer in 1756. Near the 
■ Academy is Dummer Avenue, with the finest lines of elm-trees in Essex County. 

3 - 4 M. from the city is the ancient and picturesque Indian Hill mansion of 
Ben Perley Poore, the author and journalist. This broad and rambling old house 
may be called the Abbotsford of New England, so many are the historic curiosi¬ 
ties which have been gathered here. The old Garrison House is near Oldtown 
Green, and is a well-preserved specimen of the massive defensive architecture of 
the early colonial days. It was built during the 17th century, and has suffered 
but little change. 





2GO Route 37. 


SALISBURY BEACH. 


The continuation of High Street by Oldtown Green to Pipe-Stave Hill (which 
commands a broad sea-view) and Parker River, affords a drive through a well- 
settled rural district, which has an English air, in the carefulness of its cultiva¬ 
tion and the antiquity of its houses. Plum Island is 2-3 M. E. of Newburyport., 
and is “ a wild and fantastic sand-beach, reaching to Ipswich, 10-12 M. distant, 
and thrown up, by the joint power of winds and waves, into the thousand wanton 
figures of a snow-drift.” It is joined to the city by a causeway, and has a hotel 
and two lighthouses, near the N. end. The beach slopes rapidly, and having a 
strong undertowg is not used for bathing, but the breaking of the sea on this bold 
shore after a storm affords a grand sight. 

Salisbury Beach (stages semi-daily in summer) is 4 M. from New¬ 
buryport, on the N. side of the Merrimac. The farming town of Salis¬ 
bury is traversed, after crossing the river. This town was settled in 
1638, and named (in 1640) in compliment to its first pastor, who came 
from Salisbury in England. Many ancient houses are to be seen here j 
among others the birthplaces of Caleb Cushing and of Abigail, the 
mother of Daniel Webster ; also the audience-room of the royal commis¬ 
sioners of 1699, and the provincial boundary council in 1737. A long 
plank-road runs across the marshes to the beach {Atlantic House), which 
is 6 M. long, extending from the Merrimac to the Hampton River. The 
sand is hard, smooth, and gently sloping, and is well adapted for long 
drives, and for bathing (there is no undertow). The low ridge of sand 
above the high-tide line is taken up by a line of cottages which extends 
for over a mile along the shore. Many tents are pitched on the sands 
during the summer, and Whittier’s poem, <e The Tent on the Beach,” 
well describes this mode of life and the scenery in the vicinity of the 
beach (where its scene was laid). 1| M. S. of the Atlantic House is the 
mouth of the Merrimac River, with the picturesque ruins of an abandoned 
fort (built to command the entrance), -while the city of Newburyport is 
in full sight up the river. Plum Island and Cape Ann are seen on the S. 
from the beach, and Boar’s Head, the Isles of Shoals, and Mt. Agamenti- 
cus on the N. and N. E. Following a custom which is now two centuries 
old, the people of the surrounding towns congregate here every year on a 
day late in August, and enjoy themselves. Sometimes more than 25,000 
people assemble on those days. 

Newbury was settled in 1635 by a colony, under the pastor Thomas Parker,! 
which entered the river since called Parker, in the ship “ Hector.” There are but 
few towns in New England whose annals are so peaceful as are those of Newbury, 
which in the 238 years of its history has not felt the tread of a hostile foot, nor seen 
the flash of a hostile gun. The interests of the maritime village at the mouth of 
the Merrimac were found to be so different from those of the farming town of 
Newbury, that Newburyport received a separate organization in 1764. In 1772, 
90 vessels were built here, but the Revolution and the drain of men for the Essex 
County regiments checked the prosperity of the place, and in 1788 only 3 vessels 
were built. President Dwight says of the village in 1796, “ Indeed, an air of 

1 Parker studied at Magdalen College, Oxford, and early distinguished himself by writing 
two wonderful Latin hooks, — “ De Traductione l’eccatoris ’ and “ Methodus Divinne 
G ratine.” When old and blind, “ the Homer of New England,” he had a Ion" controversy 
with President Chauncey. “ lie went unto the immortals, in April, 1677, in the 82nd year 
of his afire*' ’ J 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Route 37. 2G1 


•Wealth, taste, and elegance is spread over this beautiful spot, with a cheerfulness 
and brilliancy to which I know no rival.” Washington, Lafayette, Talleyrand, 
Louis Philippe of France, and other famous men were entertained here by the 
aristocratic families. An extensive foreign commerce was firmly established, and 
in 1807 the tonnage of the port was over 30,000. The Embargo fell with crushing 
fofce upon this maritime industry, and the Great Fire of 1811, which swept away 
16 acres from the most densely built quarter, checked the prosperity of the town, 
and reduced its population to 6,388. Its valuation in 1810 was about the same as 
in 1S70. The town grew slowly, and its Merrimac-built ships were famous through¬ 
out the world for fleetness, strength, and symmetry, and were made in large num¬ 
bers until the decline of American commerce. The cotton-manufacture was com¬ 
menced here in 1836, and is now the leading business of the place, although con¬ 
siderable attention is paid to the coasting trade, and there is a large fishing fleet 
belonging to the port. The carriage bridge across the Merrimac was built in 
1827, and the Chain Bridge, above the city, was the first suspension bridge in 
America, and the second in the world. The great turnpike running to Malden 
Bridge and Boston was finished in 1808, at an expense of $420,000. 

Among the natives of Newburyport were, the lawyers, Charles Jackson, Simon 
Greenleaf, John Lowell, Joseph Blunt, and Theophilus Parsons ; the physicians, 
James Jackson and W. Ingalls ; the inventors, Jacob Perkins and Edmund Blunt; 
the poets. Lucy Hooper and H. C. Knight; the authors, George Wood, George 
Lunt, S. L. Knapp, and Hannah F. Lee ; the divines, J. Greenleaf, Bishop Clarke, 
Gardner Spring, G. R. Noyes, and Stephen H. Tyng ; the generals, Michael Jack- 
ton (Revolutionary War, commander of the Sth Mass.), and N. T. Jackson (Secession 
War); and the senators, William Plumer and Tristram Dalton. Among those long 
resident here were Hannah F. Gould, the poetess ; J. B. Gough, the temperance 
orator; Caleb Cushing, Rufus King, J. Q. Adams, and Harriet Prescott Spofford. 

William Lloyd Garrison, “the leader of the emancipationist movement in the 
U. S.” was born at Newburyport in 1804. He began to advocate the immediate 
abolition of slavery about 1830, and led the movement in that direction until it 
was accomplished, bravely enduring many persecutions. 

A short branch railroad leads from Newburyport to Amesbury (two hotels), a 
large and prosperous manufacturing village. 

John G. Whittier, “the Quaker Poet” (born at Haverhill in 1807) has lived in 
Amesbury since 1840. His earlier years were spent in farming and journalism, 
and he was a fearless pioneer of the cause of Antislavery, to whose advancement 
his life was devoted. He is peculiarly the poet of New England, and has written 
admirable descriptions of its rural life and society. The ancient towns of N. 
Essex and the surrounding seas have been illustrated by his legendary poems, 
especially by “Snow-Bound,” “The Tent on the Beach,” and the “Ballads of 
New England.” 

After leaving Newburyport, the Portland train crosses the Merrimac 
River at a high level, on a costly and massive new bridge, 1500 ft. long. 
Fine views are afforded (to the r.) of the city and river, with the ocean in 
the distance. Stations, E. Salisbury and Seabrook, a thinly settled town, 
whose territory is mostly covered with forests and salt marsh, and whose 
name is derived from the numerous brooks which flow through it to the 
sea. Many of the people are engaged in making whale-boats, and the 
inhabitants of the seaward part of the town (S. Seabrook) long bore an 
unenviable reputation. Their physiognomy, dialect, and clothing were 
so marked and unique that they were always recognized in the neighboring 
city and designated as “Algerines.” A religious and educational mission 
was established here about 1866, and is now self-supporting and prolific 
in benefits. Seabrook was settled in 1638, and was often harried during 
the Indian wars. 

Station, Hampton Falls, S. E. of the village of the same name, which 




262 Route 37. 


HAMPTON BEACH. 


has a large monument erected by the State to Meshech Weare, the first 
President of N. H. (1776 -85). 

Dr. Langdon, chaplain of the N. H. regiment in the Louisburg expedition, 
received 10,000 acres of land in N. H. for “his services, fatigues, and dangers.” 
He was President of Harvard University, 1774-80, and pastor at Hampton Falls, 
1781 -97, and at his death he left his line library to the village church. In August, 
1737, the Governor of Mass, rode to this little hamlet at the head of the Legis¬ 
lature and escorted by 5 troops of horse. Here, in the George Tavern, he had 
long conferences about the provincial boundaries, with the Governor and Legis¬ 
lature of N. H. The latter demanded the territory which now composes her two 
lower tiers of towns, which had been settled by Mass, men under Mass, charters. 
The Governors failed to agree, and an appeal was sent to the King, setting forth 
how “the vast, opulent, and overgrown province of Mass, was devouring the poor, 
little, loyal, distressed province of N. IT.” The royal heart was touched, and the 
King commanded Mass, to surrender two tiers of towns (28 in number) from the 
Conn. River to the sea. 

The railroad now passes over long tracts of salt-meadow, oil the E. of 
which is Hampton Beach and the ocean. Station, Hampton, an ancient 
village which was settled in 1638, on the Indian domain of Winnicummet, 
and near a block-house erected by Mass, in 1636 to mark its N. E. border. 
The first settlers were from Norfolk in England, and were long exposed 
to pitiless attacks from the Indians. The town is now a quiet and 
pleasant land of peace and plenty, abounding in gray old colonial man¬ 
sions, and traversed by broad and level roads. The village near the 
station (Union House, good) has three churches in the old Puritan archi¬ 
tecture. Stages run from the station to Hampton Beach, 3 M. to the 
S. E. (* Boar’s Head Hotel, 300 guests; * Leavitt’s Hampton Beach 
Hotel; Eagle House; and at the Lower Beach, the Ocean House, 160 
guests; Couch House.) Besides the hotels, there are many small summer 
cottages on and near the beach. Boar’s Head is a bold bluff 70 ft. high, 
which projects into the sea from a stony strand, and affords the best marine 
views on the N. H. coast. On the S. is the long and vague line of the 
beaches which front Essex North and stretch by Newburyport to Cape 
Ann, while Mt. Agamenticus is seen in the N. beyond Rye with its village 
of hotels, and the Isles of Shoals are off shore on the N. E. The Boar’s 
Head Hotel is favorably situated on the little grassy plateau on the bluff, 
and has a fine sea-view. (See Whittier’s poem, “ Hampton Beach.”) 

From the vicinity of Boar’s Head a sandy beach extends S. to Hampton 
River, where many vessels were made in the colonial days. The river 
forms a safe harbor for coasters, though its entrance is fringed with rocks 
and shoals. Its clams are famous, and water-fowl formerly abounded, 
while the settlement of Hampton was due to the abundance of salt hay on 
its marshes. Salisbury Beach begins on the S. shore of the river, and 
extends to the Merrimac. At half and low tide may be seen the rocks 
off shore, of which Whittier sings (in “ The Wreck of Rivermouth ”): — 

“ Rivermouth Rocks are fair to see. 

By dawn or sunset shone across, 

When the ebb of the sea has left them free 
To dry their fringes of gold-green moss ; 


RYE BEACH. 


Route 37. 263 


‘ For there the river comes winding down 
From salt sea-meadows and uplands brown, 
And waves on the outer rocks af'oam 
Shout to its waters, ‘ Welcome Home.’ 

“ Once, in the old Colonial days, 

Two hundred years ago and more, 

A boat sailed down the Winding ways 
Of Hampton River to that low shore.” 


North Beach lies to the N. of Boar’s Head, and was formerly lined 
with fish-houses from which the hardy fishermen put out to sea in small 
boats. A road runs N. near this stony strand, to Little Boar’s Head and 
Rye Beach. The beach at Hampton is composed, for the most part, of 
a gradual slope seaward of hard sand, affording fine facilities for surf¬ 
bathing and also for driving (at low tide). The favorite drives from 
Hampton, inland, are to Exeter, to the rich fruit-growing town of Green¬ 
land, to the ancient village of Hampton Falls, and to Stratham Hill. 

The next railroad station is N. Hampton, in a sparsely populated farm¬ 
ing town. Stages run throughout the summer to Rye Beach (the 
Ocean House was burnt in March, 1873; * Farragut House, by Mrs. 
Philbrick and Son, 250-300 guests, at $3 - 3.50 a day; Sea View House, 
new, accommodating 150 guests; Washington House; the Surf House 
was burnt in October, 1872. There are also several first-class board¬ 
ing-houses near the beach). Rye is the most fashionable of the N. 
H. beaches, and presents an agreeable alternation of sharp and storm- 
worn ledges with strips of sand on which bathing is safe and pleas¬ 
ant. On the S. is Little Boar’s Head, a sea-beaten bluff on which 
several fine cottages have been built, together with a large private 
boarding-house. A long, sandy beach stretches N. E. from Jenness Beach 
to Straw's Point, which was bought a few years since by Gov. Straw, and 
is now occupied by the fine seaside cottages of several N. H. gentlemen. 
An extensive marine view is obtained from this point, from Boone Island 
Light on the N. E. to Cape Ann on the S., embracing nearly 40 M. of 
coast.- The view of the Isles of Shoals on the E. is very satisfactory. 

Drake is of the opinion that “ the shore full of white sand, hut very stony and 
rocky,” near which Capt. Gosnold anchored (in 1602), was Rye Beach. The town 
of Rye was settled in 1635, and was named from the English home of some of the 
immigrants. In 1696 a flotilla of Indians attacked the people at Sandy Beach and 
killed or captured 21 of them. In the same year the colonists retaliated by at¬ 
tacking an Indian band while at breakfast. The hill where this action took place 
(to the r. of Greenland station) has ever since been called Breakfast Hill. The 
little town lost 38 men in the Revolutionary War. Large sea-walls of pebbles are 
seen near the Rye beaches, which were thrown up by the waves in the great storm 
which destroyed Minot’s Ledge Lighthouse. 

Beyond N. Hampton is Greenland station, in a small fruit-growing 
town. Station, 

Portsmouth. 

Hotels. * Rockingham House, a superbly frescoed and marble-paved hotel 
of the first class, accommodating 250 - 300 guests ; American House; National 
House. 



264 Route 37. 


PORTSMOUTH. 


Railroads, to Saco and Portland ; to Newburyport, Salem, and Boston ; to 
N. Conway and the White Mts. ; to Manchester and Concord. Stages to Kittery 
and York. Steamers daily (in summer) in 1 hr. to the Isles of Shoals ; also to 
the Marshall House, at York ; a small steam ferry-boat plies between Portsmouth 
and the Navy Yard. 

The site of Portsmouth was first visited by Capt. Bring in 1603, and afterwards 
by Capt. Smith in 1614. In 1623 it was settled (on Odiome’s Point) under the 
auspices of the Laconia Company. A small fort armed with several cannon Was 
erected on Great Island in 1635. The town was called Strawberry Bank until 
1653, on account of the abundance of strawberries which grew on its hills and 
around the “ Great House ” of the proprietor, Capt. Mason. The people chose 
Portsmouth as “ a name most suitable for this place, it being the river’s mouth, 
and as good as.any in the land,” although they probably accepted the idea from 
Capt. Mason, “the founder of N. II.,” and proprietor of its islands, w'ho had 
long been governor of the South Sea Castle, in the harbor of Portsmouth, Eng¬ 
land. The village was fortified with palisades which effectually guarded it from 
Indian marauders, who Were repulsed by cannon in 1676. In 1696, a party landed 
near the Plains from a fleet of canoes and killed 14 Englishmen. In 1739, the 
town’s-people firmly resisted the annexation of N. H. to Mass., and thus secured 
the provincial independence of the former. In 1746, a new 16-gun battery was 
built near Fort William and Mary, on Great Island, and a 9-gun battery was built 
at Little Harbor, to resist the expected French Armada. In Dec., 1774, Sullivan 
took Fort William and Mary by surprise (with Rockingham County volunteers), 
and carried away 100 barrels of powder and 15 cannon, and in 1775, the same 
gentleman led the 3d N. H. Regiment to the Continental camp at Cambridge. 
At the close of the Revolution, De Warville found here “ a thin population, many 
houses in ruins, women and children in rags, and everything announcing decline.” 
A brisk era of maritime prosperity soon carried the town to a higher level, and 
many fine mansions were built for the new families of consequence. But the 
Embargo, a succession of disastrous fires, and the decline of its commerce, fully 
checked this tide of prosperity, and the city (chartered in 1849) has long been 
losing ground. Between 1S53 and 1870 it lost over 1,800 inhabitants. 

Portsmouth, the capital of New Hampshire from 1712 to 1807, and its 
only seaport, is a quaint and pleasant old city (of 9,211 inhabitants), 
situated on a peninsula 3 M. from the moutli of the Piscataqua River. 
“ There are more quaint houses and interesting traditions in Portsmouth 
than in any other town in New England.” The Mansard mania has not 
reached these quiet and shaded streets, and the prevailing architecture 
seems to be that of the colonial days. There is a fine U. S. building 
here, also a few neat churches, while the Parade, or central square, ex¬ 
hibits two or three specimens of curious old architecture. The city has 
4 banks, 9 churches, 2 daily and 3 weekly newspapers (of which the 
iV. H. Gazette is the oldest American paper continuously published, 
having been established in 1756). There are also manufactories of shoes, 
carriages, furniture, cotton goods, &c. The quietness of the city, its 
salubrious sea-air, the pleasant drives in the vicinity, and the nearness 
of fine beaches, render Portsmouth a favorite and desirable summer-re- 
sort. The Athenaeum (on Market Square) has about 12,000 volumes and 
a large reading-room. The old Church of St. John is worthy of a visit,' 
and so is Gov. Wentworth’s mansion at Little Harbor (2 M. distant). 
This is a large, irregular, and picturesque building (dating from 1750) 
which contains the old provincial council-chamber, and many quaint 


THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 


Route 37. 2G5 


relics of the past, among which some portraits hy Copley will he noticed. 
George Washington paid a visit to this mansion while the Wentworths 
were still there (it passed out of their hands in 1817). Portsmouth Har¬ 
bor is one of the best in New England, always free from ice, 70-80 ft. 
deep, and the river is ^ M. wide opposite the city. 

Portsmouth has given to American literature, T. B. Aldrich, J T. Fields, B. P. 
Shil laber, and Eliza B. Lee ; to the church. Dr. Nichols and Bishop Parker; to 
the bar. Judges Livermore and Langdon, and the Atkinsons : to the State, Gov. 
Penning Wentworth, Sir John Wentworth, and Senator John Langdon ; and to 
the navy. Commodores Parrott and Long, and Commander Craven. 

Opposite Portsmouth (steam-ferry frequently from the foot of Daniel 
St.) is the TL S* Navy Yatd, on Continental Island, in the town of Kittery 
(Maine). It has extensive ship-houses, machine-shops, rigging-lofts, 
wharves, and barracks; also a dry-dock which cost $ 800,000. 

This city has ever been famed for its naval architecture. In 1690, the “ Falk¬ 
land,” 54 guns, was built here ; in 1696, the “ Bedford,” 32 ; in 1749, the “ Amer¬ 
ica,” 40 ; in 1776, the “Raleigh,” 32; in 1777, the “Ranger,” 18; in 1784, the 
“ America,” a superb line-of-battle ship, which was presented by Congress to the 
King of France. During this century many war-vessels have been built here, 
chief among which is the frigate “ Congress.” 

Kittery Point village, near the Navy Yard and Fort McClary, has the ancient 
Peppereil, Sparhawk, and Cutts mansions, fine old colonial houses, filled with the 
remnants of their quaint furniture. Pepperell’s tomb is near the first-named. 

Sir William Peppereil Was born at Kittery Point in 1696. He rose rapidly in 
the colonial military service until 1745, when he commanded the expedition which 
took Louisburg, for which he was knighted. He occupied important positions in 
New England, was made a lieut.-gen. in the British army, and Gov. of Mass., and 
died in 1759. His grandson, Sir W. P. Sparhawk, assumed the Peppereil name 
and inherited the vast estates, which were sequestrated in 1778, on account of 
his adherence to the British government in opposition to America. 

The * Isles of Shoals are 10 M. from Portsmouth, and consist of 8 
rocky islets (9 M. from the shore), the largest of which contains 350 
acres. There is but little vegetation on these rugged ledges, which lift 
themselves out of deep water, and are surrounded by the purest and 
coolest sea-air. 

The steamer leaves Portsmouth in the morning, and affords a fine retro¬ 
spect of the city. The public works and national vessels at the Navy 
Yard are soon passed, and then the island-town of Newcastle (on the r.). 
This town was settled before 1630, and incorporated in 1693. It was the 
site of old Fort William and Mary, and now has the powerful Fort Con¬ 
stitution and the Portsmouth Light. On the 1. Fort McClary is seen, on 
Kittery Point, and the Whale’s Back Lighthouse is passed, with Frost’s 
and Odiorne’s Points on the r. As the steamer gains the open sea, the 
coast of Maine is seen on the N. W., trending away beyond Mt. Agamen- 
ticus. The Isles are now rapidly approached. The * Apjpledore House 
is a great hotel on Appledore Island, accommodating 500 guests, at $ 3.00 
a day. An immense new hotel (the Oceanic, with 275 rooms) will be 
opened in the summer of 1873, on Star Island, the former site of the vil- 
12 


266 Route 37. 


YORK. 


lage of Gosport. Several family cottages will be attached to the hotel, 
and leased by the season. On Star Island is a small cavern, where 
a woman once hid in a rocky recess while the- Indians massacred the 
people of the settlement. It is said that she killed her two children to 
prevent them from discovering her to the Indians by their cries. Another 
point on the rocky shore was the favorite resort of a lady school-teacher, 
who was wont to read there, until Sept. 11, 1848, when a huge wave 
washed her away, to be seen no more. Fine trap-dikes are found on this 
island. 1 M. S. W. is White Island, with a powerful revolving light, 87 
ft. above the water, and visible 15 M. away. Haley’s (or Smutty Nose) 
Island is between Appledore and Star, and has the graves of 16 of the 
crew of the Spanish ship “ Sagunto,” which was lost here (in 1813) with 
all on board. Ruck Island is 2 M. N. E. of Appledore, and is a rugged 
and dangerous mass of rock. Fine fishing may be enjoyed from boats 
about the islands, and yachts may be engaged at the hotels. 

The Isles of Shoals were discovered by Champlain in 1605, and were visited by 
Argali in 1613, and by Smith in 1614. The last-named mariner named them 
Smith’s Isles, but the present name was early adopted, and ill 1623 “ the Isles of 
Shoulds ” are spoken of (derived probably from the shoaling or “schooling” of 
the Jish around the islands). 

The present Appledore Island was soon eelbhifefed, and In 1640 had ft considerable 
village of fishermen, with a church and court-house. Ip 1661, it had 40 families, 
and in 1670 the people removed to Star Island for fear of the Indians, who never¬ 
theless destroyed the colony in 1675. In 1647, “ The humble petition of Richard 
Cutts and John Cutting ; Sheweth — That contrary to an order or act of Court, 
which says that no woman shall live on the Isles of Shoals, John Reynolds hath 
brought Iris wife hither, also pigs and goats.” The latter were removed by order 
of the Court, but the woman remained. Star Island was fortified, and an exten¬ 
sive fishing-business arose. The fish caught and cured by the islanders were sent 
mostly to Spain and to the West Indies, and by 1770, the town had over 500 in¬ 
habitants. In 1870, the population had dwindled to 94, and in 1872, Star Island 
was purchased and depopulated for the erection of a large hotel. Star, Londoner’s, 
and White Island belong to New Hampshire, and the others pertain to Maine. On 
the night of March 5th, 1873, a fearful tragedy took place on Haley’s Island 
(Smutty Nose). The men of the family residing there were in Portsmouth, and 
one Wagner (a Prussian) landed and murdered 2 of the 3 women then on the 
island. The third escaped in the darkness and hid among the rocks and snow. 

York village is 9 M. N. E. of Portsmouth (daily stage ; steamers run 
from Portsmouth to the Marshall House). It is a quiet and pleasant old 
maritime hamlet, with several ancient houses, and a slender-spired church 
which was built in 1748. 4 M. N. are two quaint old garrison-houses, — 

Mclntire’s and Junldn’s, while the clayey valley of York River, being 
fertilized with sea-weed, has some fine farms, which are noted for their 
apples and cider. On a promontory between York Harbor and the ocean 
is the * Marshall House , a hotel accommodating 200 guests, with fine 
fishing in the vicinity. \\ M. from the village is York Beach, one of the 
best in New England, about 1| M. long and formed of gently sloping, hard, 
gray sand. The Sea Foam Cottage is a new hotel, accommodating about 
100 guests, and there are 2 or 3 boarding-houses near the beach. At its 


BALD HEAD CLIFF. 


Route 37. 2G7 


N. end Cape Neddick runs out into the sea, with, a curious rocky islet 
called “The Nubble,” off its point and separated from it by a deep, nar¬ 
row, and tide-swept channel. The Bowden House is on the Cape, and is 
a favorite resort for gunners, while just beyond is the village of Capo 
Neddick (small tavern). 

6-7 M. from York Beach (by a bad road through Cape Neddick) 
is Mt. Agamenticus , a lofty hill whence fine views of the ocean and of 
the White Mts. may be obtained. About 5 M. N. from the beach is 
* Bald Head Cliff, a remarkable rocky promontory, “second only to the 
Giant’s Causeway in wild and majestic grandeur.” The highly inclined 
3trata of the ledges show long and regular stripes of vivid and variegated 
• colors, while the action of storms and rolling surf has broken the cliff 
into curious shapes. The view from the Pulpit when a heavy sea is roll¬ 
ing is awe-inspiring, with such force do the great surges break on the 
rocks below. On its S. W. side the cliff falls sheer for 85 ft., to the 
water. Some years since, a new barque from Kennebunkport, being 
lightly ballasted, was driven in on Bald Head Cliff, and lost, with its crew 
of 14 men. Boone Island is seen off shore, with its lighthouse, 133 ft. 
above the sea. The Nottingham Galley, 10 guns, was wrecked on this 
island in 1710, and a horrid cannibalism sustained the life of the few men 
who were saved. The long Ogunquit Beach stretches from Bald Head 
Cliff to Wells. 

York was settled about 1624, and in 1642 Sir Ferdinando Gorges established 
here the city of Gorgeana, with a full municipal government, and semi-yearly 
fairs, —to occur at the feasts of SS. James and Paul. Gorges was Lord Palatine 
of Maine, and vainly tried to establish a feudal system here. The death of Gorges 
and the rise of the English republic made it easy for Massachusetts to take pos¬ 
session of Gorgeana City in 1652, and 10 years later the j)rovince took away the 
city charter, and named the town York. It was then the chief place in Maine, 
and received a large addition to its population by the arrival of a detachment of 
exiled Scotchmen who had been captured by Cromwell at the battle of Dunbar. 
The Indians made frequent attacks on York, and in 1676 they destroyed Cape 
Neddick village and its people. Feb. 5, 1692, the town was attacked at dawn by 
300 Indians and Frenchmen, who had marched from Canada on snow-shoes. 
Many of the villagers gained refuge in the garrison-houses, which were success¬ 
fully defended while the remainder of the settlement was destroyed. After a 
bloody slaughter in the streets the assailants retired, leading 100 prisoners with 
them to Canada, after killing 75 of the people of York. Henceforth until 1744, 
the settlers kept guarded as if in a state of siege, and throughout Queen Anne’s ' 
War (1702-1712), spy-boats patrolled the coast between Cape Neddick and Boar’s 
Head. 3 companies from York went to the Louisburg campaigns, and on the 
morning after the battle of Lexington, 60 men marched thence to Cambridge. 
The town has retrograded during the past century, and has now a farming popu¬ 
lation of 2,654 persons. 


Portsmouth to Concord. 

Distance, 59 M. ; fare, $1.60 ; time* 2£- 3 hrs. The Concord trains leave their 
station near that of the Eastern Railroad, and pass out to the S. W., soon reach¬ 
ing the shore of Great Bay. Stations, Greenland and Stratham, a large fruit- 
producing town. From Stratham Hill a pretty view is afforded toward the 
White lifts. At Newmarket Junction, the line connects with the Boston and 
Maine Railroad (Route 38). The train then passes through the farming towns of 





268 Route 37. 


WELLS. 


Epping, Raymond, Candia, and Auburn, to Manchester. From Manchester to 
Concord, see Route 29. 

Beyond Portsmouth the train crosses the Piscataqua River, affording a 
pleasant view (to the r.) of the ancient city, and of the distant Navy 
Yard. Stations, Kittery (3 M. from Kittery Point), Elliot (a pretty 
farming-town), and Conway Junction, where trains diverge to N. Con¬ 
way and the White Mts., 71 M. distant (see Route 31.). 3 M. beyond 

Conway Junction is S. Berwick Junction, where the Boston and Maine 
Railroad (Route 38) crosses the present route. S. Berwick village is 2 M. 
distant, and has considerable manufactures. Stations, N. Berwick and 
Wells. 

Wells was founded in 1643 by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass, for heresy. In 1676 the settlement was vainly attacked by Mogg 
Megone, and in 1692 a furious assault was made by 500 men, led by French offi¬ 
cers. After a 48 hours’ siege, the enemy, led by M. Burniffe, Gen. Labocre, and 
the Tarratine chiefs Madockawando and Egeremet, attempted to storm the fort, 
but were disastrously repulsed by the artillery and musketry of Capt. Converse’s 
garrison. In 1703, 39 of the people of Wells were killed or captured. 

Wells Village ( Ocean House, 60-75 guests, $10-12.00 a week) is 
about 4 M. S. E. of the station, and is finely situated on a high ridge 
overlooking the ocean. The houses are built along the old northern post¬ 
road, and are separated from the beach by Wells River. 1J M. from the 
village (good road) is Wells Beach ( Island Ledge House, $ 3.00 a day; 
Atlantic House, 100 rooms, $12-20.00 a week), a sandy strand, with 
rocky ledges off shore, furnishing good bathing and hunting. The view 
from the Atlantic House is grand, embracing Boone Island, Ogunquit 
Beach, and the trend of the coast from Bald Head Cliff to Cape Porpoise. 
A short distance S. of Wells is the ancient village of Ogunquit, with Bald 
Head Cliff beyond, while 4-5 M. N. is Kennebunk. 

Stages run daily in summer from the station to the beach. The Boston and 
Maine R, R. has now a station within 1 M. of the Atlantic House. 

Station, Kennebunk (restaurant), 3 M. from the village ( Mousam 
House), which has several factories and shipyards, with 4 churches. 

3 - 5 M. beyond are the maritime villages of Kennebunkport and Cape 
Porpoise. Large granite breakwaters are built out on each side of the 
mouth of the Kennebunk River, from which a beach runs W. 2-3 M. to 
the Mousam River. There are several small boarding-houses here (Sea 
View, Beach, and Fairview Houses). Near Cape Porpoise village ( Goose 
Rocks House) is a group of small islands sheltering a good harbor. 

This locality was first visited in 1602, and settled in 1629. In 1690 the provin¬ 
cial garrison on Stage Island was removed,'and the Indians soon attacked the 
settlement, upon which the people withdrew to the fort. After a long siege by 
the Indians, a crippled man from the fort escaped by night in a leaky canoe to 
Portsmouth, whence aid was sent, and the people were taken off. The" place was 
deserted for 9 years, and 3 years after its resettlement (1702) it was utterly de- 
stroyed by 500 Indians. In 1713 the town was again occupied, and in 1717 it was 



BIDDEFORD. 


Route 37. 2 6 9 


incorporated by the Mass. Legislature, with the name of Arundel. After bearing 
this name for 104 years, the town discarded it for its present name. 

Beyond Kennebunk the train reaches Biddeford, a city of over 10,000 
inhabitants, with 4 banks (2 of deposit), 2 weekly papers, and 9 churches. 
Opposite Biddeford, and across the Saco River, is the city of Saco (Saco 
House), with 5,757 inhabitants, 4 banks (2 of deposit), and a-weekly 
paper. The river has 55 ft. of falls between the cities, furnishing a fine 
water-power, which is utilized by the York, Pepperell, and Laconia cot¬ 
ton factories, running 175,000 spindles, with about $3,000,000 capital, 
and employing over 3,000 operatives. Several hundred men are engaged 
in large machine shops, while great numbers are in the lumber-mills. 

This district was first visited by De Monts in 1605, and Vines wintered here in 
1617-18. Permanent settlements were made about 1660, and in 1675 the Sokokis 
Indians were repulsed with severe loss from the fort at the falls. In 1703, this fort 
was taken by another attack, led by French officers, and in 1708 Fort Mary was 
built. Biddeford was bought for £90 by Win. Phillips, of Boston, and in 1738 
received its separate incorporation, and was named for an English city whence 
came several of its settlers. It became a city in 1855. Saco was incorporated as 
Pepperellborough in 1762, and was named in honor of the knight who owned its 
territory. It was called Saco in 1805, and became a city in 1867. The celebrated 
Saco River regiment (5th Maine) was raised hereabouts in 1861, and served through 
the Secession War, being most distinguished for its brilliant bayonet-charge at 
Rappahannock Station, where it took hundreds of prisoners and the flags of the 
8tli Louisiana, and 6th, 7tli, and 54th North Carolina regiments. 

Saco Pool is about 9 M. from the station (7 M. for pedestrians, by 
Fort Hill and the ferry). The steamer “ Augusta ” runs twice daily from 
the pier below the falls, down the beautiful river to the Pool, touching at 
the Ferry House, a summer-hotel on the 1. bank near the sea. 

The * Yates House (200 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $12-20,00 a week) is at 
the Pool, together with several large boarding-houses ( Hussey's Ocean 
House, Holman's Highland House, &c. ). The village is on a peninsula 
opposite the hill on which are the ruins of Fort Mary (built in 1708). 
Near by is a quaint old house of the 17th century. The Pool is a broad 
and muddy-bottomed cove, which is very nearly land-locked, and is filled 
by each tide. There was formerly a popular belief that whosoever en¬ 
tered the Pool on the 22d of June would be cured of all disease. On the 
ocean-front near the hotels is a fine, sandy beach with good facilities for 
surf-bathing (rent of bathing-houses, $1.00 a week), while a resounding 
rocky shore stretches around toward the harbor. N. E. of the Pool is 
Stage Island, where a British frigate destroyed 5 vessels in 1814, and 
Wood Island, with a powerful revolving red light. Sojourners here often 
cross Saco Bay in small boats (in calm weather), to Old Orchard Beach, 
which is plainly visible. 

The Boston and Maine Railroad (Route 38) crosses the present route at Bidde¬ 
ford, and tourists who Avish to visit the Pool will find that route equally near. 

After leaving Biddeford, the train crosses the Saco River and passes on 
to Saco station, with fi.no views of the sister cities on the r. 5 M. farther 





270 Route 37. PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS. 


on is W. Scarborough station, whence stages run in 3 M. to Scarborough 
Beach (Atlantic House, 50 - 60 guests ; Kirkwood House, somewhat 
larger ; both good houses; also several inexpensive boarding-houses). 
The beach is 2-3 M. long, hard, level, and safe for bathing, while the 
fishing offshore is very good. A fine piece of forest near the Atlantic 
House furnishes pleasant walks. Prout’s or Libby’s Neck (with two 
large summer boarding-houses) projects into the ocean from the S. end of 
the beach, while on the N. is Richmond’s Island, off the mouth of Spur- 
wink River, and Cape Elizabeth with its large hotels. 

This town was settled about 1630, and in 165S submitted to Mass, and adopted 
the English name, Scarborough, in place of its Indian name, Owascoag (“a place 
of much grass”). In King Philip’s War it was defended by troops of Mass, 
against several Indian attacks, over 200 men being in garrison here. The troops 
were called away in 1676, and the enemy destroyed the town, and in 1677 240 
Mass, soldiers were landed here. They were fiercely attacked, and defeated with 
the loss of 60 men and their commander, Capt. Swett. In 1681 a large fort (parts 
of which still remain) was built at Black Point, but the town was abandoned 
between 1690 and 1702. In 1703, the fort was attacked by 500 men under M. 
Beaubarin, but was defended by a brave little band from Lynn, while heavy rains 
caused the hostile mines to fall in. After over 100 English lives had been sacri- 
fied by the Indians, Scarborough became firmly established, and in 1791 was as 
populous as Portland (2,235 inhabitants). The exodus from Maine has greatly 
weakened this town, which in 1870 had a population smaller by 544 souls than 
that of 1791. 

6 M. beyond W. Scarborough (passing Scarborough and Cape Elizabeth 
stations) the train crosses Fore River, and stops at Portland. 

Portland and its Environs. 

Arrival. The Boston station is about 1 M. from the centre of the city, and a 
carriage should be taken, as the district to be traversed is unattractive. 

Hotels. * Falmouth House, a fine structure on Middle St., $3.50 a day; 
Preble House ; United States Hotel. The *St. Julian is near the Falmouth, and 
is one of the best European-plan hotels, — rooms, $ 1.00 a day, meals a la carte. 

Horse-Cars on Congress St. from Vaughan St. to the Observatory every 15 
minutes ; from the Preble House, by Preble, Portland, and Green Sts., to Wood¬ 
ford’s Corner (Westbrook) ; from Congress, by Spring, to Emery St. 

Reading-rooms. The Y. M. C. Association, corner of Congress and Casco 
Sts. ; the Portland Institute, in the City Hall, open 10-1, 2-6, 7-9 o’clock ; the 
Athenaeum, on Plum St. 

Railroads. The Eastern R. R., to Portsmouth and Boston (Route 37); the 
Boston and Maine R. R., to Lawrence and Boston (Route 38); Maine Central 
(Portland and Kennebec) R. R., to Augusta and Bangor (Route 47); Maine Cen¬ 
tral (Lewiston Division) to Lewiston and Bangor (Route 46); Portland and Og- 
densburg R. R., to N. Conway and Upper Bartlett (Route 39); cars of the Knox 
and Lincoln R. R., for Rockland (Route 44); Portland and Rochester R. R.; 
Grand Trunk Railway (Route 40). 

Steamships. The Allan Mail Line runs between Portland and Liverpool 
from November to May, and from May to November between Quebec and Liver¬ 
pool. Cabin-fares, $65-80.00 ; third-class, $30.00. Vessels of the International 
Steamship Co. run thrice weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 5 P. M.) 
to Eastport and St. John, connecting with steamers for Annapolis and Halifax. 
Portland to St. John, $5.00. A weekly steamer leaves for Halifax direct; fare, 
$8.00. Semi-weekly steamers leave Brown’s Wharf for New York ; fare (includ¬ 
ing state-room), $5.00. Daily steamers leave Atlantic Wharf at 7 F. M, for Bos¬ 
ton; fare, $1.50 (with state-room, $2.00). Tri-weekly steamers leave for the 
Kennebec River, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 7 A. M.; fare i) Au- 


PORTLAND. 


Route 37. 271 


gusta, $1.50. Tri-weekly steamers also for the Penobscot River, stopping at the 
river-ports from Rockland to Bangor. The steamer “ Lewiston ” leaves Railroad 
Wharf semi-weekly for Mt. Desert and Machias (see Route 45). Smaller boats 
run semi-weekly to Boothbay, Pemaquid, Waldoboro, and Damariscotta (see Route 
44) ; and several times daily to Peak’s and Cushing’s Islands. Excursion steam¬ 
ers frequently ascend Casco Bay to Harpswell. 

Portland was settled in 1632, on the Indian domain of Machigonne, and was 
named Casco Neck until it passed under the Mass, government in 1658, when it 
received the name of Falmouth, In 1676, the settlement was destroyed by the 
Indians, and 35 of its people were killed and captured. The desolated village 
was repopulated in 1678, and received an accession of Huguenot immigrants 
from La Rochelle, but the Indians soon rose again, and in 1689 killed 14 of the 
town-guard on Munjoy’s Hill. In the same year, the town was menaced by a 
large hostile force, but was delivered by the opportune arrival of Major Church, a 
skilful partisan officer, with troops from the Plymouth Colony. Church marched 
out to the vicinity of the Deering estate, and boldly engaged the enemy, who was 
put to flight after a sharp skirmish in which the Plymouth men lost 11 killed and 
many wounded. After Church had left the town (1690), the three main defences 
were attacked by 500 Frenchmen and Indians. One of them was evacuated and 
another was stormed. Fort Loyall, the largest fort on the coast (then on the 
present site of the Grand Trunk station), was fairly garrisoned and mounted 8 
cannon. Having destroyed the village and most of its inhabitants, the fort was 
besieged for 5 days, and mined under the direction of the French officers. Ere 
the mine was sprung the fort surrendered, and the survivors of its garrison were 
taken to Quebec. Scores of the people were killed, and 100 were made prisoners. 
In 1703 the neighboring villages of’ Spurwink and Purpooduck were destroyed, 
and 55 people killed or captured. After the Peace of Utrecht, in 1713, the place 
was again occupied and grew slowly, the population of 720 souls in 1753 having 
increased to 2,000 by 1764. October 18, 1775, this prosperous town was bom¬ 
barded by 4 British war-vessels (the Canseau, Cat, and others, under command of 
Capt. Mowatt, who had previously suffered some indignities here). Detachments 
of marines were landed, and between their incendiary labors and nine hours of 
cannonading fi’om the fleet, 414 buildings were utterly destroyed, leaving but 100 
standing. The rebuilding of Falmouth was commenced in 1783 ; in 1785, the 
“ Falmouth Gazette ” was started, “to advocate the independence of Maine ” (then 
under the Mass, government); and in 1786 a town was incorporated here, with 
2,000 inhabitants, under the name of Portland. In 1832 it became a city (popula¬ 
tion 13,000), and soon afterwards began the construction of great railway lines to 
the back country. An extensive foreign trade sprang up, principally with the 
West Indies, and the city grew rapidly in wealth and importance. On the night 
of July 4th, 1866, a disastrous lire swept away one half of the compact part of the 
city, causing a loss of $10,000,000. Portions of the burnt district are still en¬ 
cumbered with ruins, but by far the greater part has been covered with new and 
elegant commercial buildings. Not satisfied with its connection with the West 
by the Grand Trunk Railway, Portland has contributed largely to the construc¬ 
tion of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, to secure part of the Western 
grain carriage, while a third grand route, called the Portland, Rutland, Oswego, 
and Chicago Railroad, has long been in contemplation. 

Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine (with 31,408 inhabitants 
and a valuation of $30,000,000), is situated on a high peninsula in the 
B. W. end of Casco Bay. Its harbor is deep and well sheltered, and 
defended by three powerful forts, while several large islands beyond afford 
favorite resorts in the summer season. The peninsula on which the city 
is built is 3 M. long, and at the centre is little over | M. wide. It is 
bounded by Portland Harbor and Fore. River on the S. and W., and by 
Back Cove on the N. Bramhall’s Hill, on the W. of the peninsula, is 
175 ft. high j Munjoy’s Hill, on the E., is 161 ft.; and the cential part 
of the city is 57 ft. above the water. The Western Promenade looks down 


272 Route 37. 


PORTLAND. 


oil the rural environs from Bramhall’s Hill, and from this point Congress 
St. runs down the length of the peninsula to the Eastern Promenade on 
Munjoy’s Hill, from which fine views of the hay and islands may he ob¬ 
tained. Each of these promenades is 150 ft. wide, divided into sections, 
and planted with lines of trees. 

The City Hall is a large and imposing building of light Nova Scotia 
stone, surmounted by a singular dome. Passing from this point up 
Congress St., with Lincoln Park on the r., the Roman Catholic Bishop’s 
Palace is seen on the 1., and the large Cathedral of the Immaculate Con¬ 
ception. Beyond St. Luke’s Church (Epis.) on the 1., a large building- 
occupied by a graded city school is passed, and alongside of it the old 
Eastern Cemetery is seen. 

Among those who are buried here are Commodore Preble and Captains . Bur¬ 
roughs and Blythe. Edward Preble was born at Portland in 1761, and was an 
officer in the American Navy during the Revolution. He commanded the squad¬ 
ron which sailed to Tripoli in 1803, and humbled its piratical people by several 
bombardments of the city, at the same time averting the dangers of a war between 
the Emperor of Morocco and the United States. Burroughs and Blythe com¬ 
manded respectively the American war-vessel, the “ Enterprise,” and the British 
brig, the “ Boxer,” which fought off Pemaquid in 1813. After a sharp action of 
48 minutes, in which both captains were killed, the “ Boxer ” surrendered and was 
taken into Portland. 

Just beyond the cemetery is the observatory on Munjoy’s Hill, which 
should be ascended for the sake of its extensive * view (small fee to the 
keeper). To the S. W., on the heights beyond Fore River, is the fine 
castellated building of the State Reform School, with the plains of Scar¬ 
borough and Saco beyond, and far down the coast is the blue cone of Mt. 
Agamenticus. Portland and its inner harbor lie to the S. and W., with 
Bramhall’s Hill at the further end of the ridge. To the N. W. is the 
village of Gorham (Maine), over Back Cove and Deering’s Oaks, and far 
beyond, 80 M. distant, the White Mts. may be seen in clear weather. N, 
E. are the numerous verdant islands in the blue waters of Casco Bay, with 
the bending shores of Falmouth and Cumberland. The lighthouse on 
Seguin Island, at the mouth of the Kennebec, 25 M. distant, is easily 
seen by the aid of the telescope suspended from the roof, while on the 
E. is the outer harbor, with Peak’s and Cushing’s Islands, and the mas¬ 
sive fortifications. S. E. is Cape Elizabeth, with its summer hotels, and 
the Twin Sisters (Portland lighthouses). A short distance beyond the 
Observatory is the Eastern Promenade. The Marine Hospital, which 
may be seen from this point, is a fine building fronting on the Bay at 
Martin’s Point. 

The U. S. Custom House is an elegant granite building in the peculiar 
style which has been introduced by the architects of the present Adminis¬ 
tration. The inner hall, with its elaborate marble ornamentation, is 
worthy of a visit. A short distance N. E. of the Custom House are the 

















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PORTLAND. 


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ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. Route 37. 273 


piers of the New York, Boston, and Liverpool lines of steamers, and the 
extensive terminal station of the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The * Post Office is a beautiful structure of white Vermont marble, built 
in the mediaeval Italian architecture, with an elegant upper portico sup¬ 
ported by Corinthian columns. Though small, this is one of the richest 
and most pleasing of the national buildings in New England. In this 
vicinity are the stately buildings of the City Hall and the Falmouth Hotel, 
with many fine commercial buildings. Beyond the Mechanics’ Hall a 
succession of fine residences are seen stretching \xp the slopes of Bram- 
hall’s Hill, on streets so thickly lined with shade-trees as to have given 
to Portland the name of “the Forest City.” The trees in the central 
streets were destroyed during the great fire of 1866. 

The Society of Natural History has good collections of shells, minerals, 
birds, &c. ; and the libraries of the Athenaeum and Institute are often 
visited. There are several neat stone churches in the city. 

The commercial facilities of Portland have been greatly increased by the con¬ 
struction of a marginal railway along the water-front of the city, with side-tracks 
running down the wharves. The chief naval visitor since 1775 was the leviathan 
steamship “Great Eastern,” which is |M. long and weighs 22,500 tons, yet it 
found ample depth of water here. The principal trade of Portland has been with 
Havana, vast amounts of sliooks and sugar-barrels having been sent there, and 
repaid by return cargoes of sugar and molasses, which were worked over in large 
refineries in the city. Brown’s sugar-house is the lofty building with many 
small windows, between the railroad station and the city. It was rebuilt within 
00 days after the Great Fire. In 1S70 there were received at Portland nearly 
15,000 hogsheads of sugar and 45,000 hogsheads of molasses. 

The city is supplied with water from Lake Sebago, 17 M. distant, which is 247 
ft. above tide-water, and is said to have the purest lake-water in the world. 20 
M. of pipes underlie the city and convey the water to all its parts. There are 
here 3 daily papers, 7 weeklies, and 3 monthlies. 

Evergreen Cemetery is 2J M. from Portland (by stage or railway), and has 
pleasant woodland grounds covering 55 acres. There is a fine Gothic monument 
of Caen stone over the remains of William Pitt Fessenden, U. S. Senator from 
1854 to 1869. 

Portland was the birthplace of Henry W. Longfellow, the poet; N. P. Willis, 
the poet and traveller ; Sara P. Parton (Willis’s sister), who wrote popular essays 
under the pseudonym of “Fanny Fern”; Erastus and James Brooks, the New 
York journalists and politicians ; Rear-Admiral Alden, who was distinguished in 
the naval battles at Vera Cruz, New Orleans, and Mobile ; Commodore Preble, 
who commanded in the Tripolitan War; Capt. G. H. Preble, who fought in the 
Mexican and Secession wars ; John Neal, the poet and novelist; and Neal Dow, 
the reformer. 

Environs of Portland. 

Cape Elizabeth is S. of the harbor, and stretches its rugged cliffs into 
the ocean. The drives over this surf-beaten promontory are very pleasant 
during the summer, and extend to the Twin Sisters lighthouses, at the 
end of the cape, 9 M. from the city. The Cape Cottage is 3 M. from 
Portland, and is a large and picturesque hotel, built of stone, and accom- 
modating 100 guests (frequent stages to the city). The scenery is fine, 
embracing the shoreless ocean on one hand and the entrance to the harbor 
12 * n 



274 Route 37. ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. 


on the other. 5 M. beyond this point is the Ocean Rouse, a large hotel ■ 
near a hard, sandy beach, with good facilities for surf-bathing. 10 M. | 
from Portland is the Atlantic House, on Scarborough Beach. The Port- 1 
land Light is 3| M. from the city, on a high bluff which commands broad 
sea-views. A steam-ferry runs from Custom House Wharf to Cape j 
Elizabeth village, and \ M. from its pier is Fort Preble, a small but strong j 
work on a commanding point. To the N. is the town of Cape Elizabeth, j 
and 2J M. from Portland is the tine building of the State Reform School. 

Steamers run several times daily (in summer) to the islands in Casco 1 
Bay. This is one of the pleasantest short marine excursions on the coast, j 
and can be made in 3 - 4 hours, although it is better to go down on a fore- 1 
noon boat, dine at the Ottawa House, spend the afternoon on Cushing’s : 
Island, and return on the afternoon boat. 

The steamer leaves the pier and passes into the harbor, with Fort 
Preble on the low point'to the r., and the more powerful works of Forts ij 
Scammel and Gorges on islands in front. Beautiful retrospects are af¬ 
forded of Portland, rising in terraced lines along its hills. Casco Bay, j 
over a small part of which the steamer passes, is one of the most pic¬ 
turesque of American bays, and some enthusiastic persons rank it next to j 
the Italian Bay of Naples. It is popularly supposed to contain 365 ] 
islands (like Lake Winnepesaukee), and its green archipelago abounds in ; 
good fishing-places. Boats of all sizes, with experienced captains, may 1 
be hired in Portland. Diamond Island, about 5 M. from the city, is fre- 1 
quently visited by large parties, and has noble groves of old trees, with a ] 
bold, rocky shore opening occasionally in level strips of beach. Diamond, ; 
Pleasant, and Indian Coves are beautiful and sequestered inlets,.bordered ] 
with beeches, maples, and oaks. Peak's Island is 4 M. from the city, 1 
and is a popular summer-resort for the people of Cumberland County, 'j 
There are several small and inexpensive hotels here (Casco House, Union 
House, and others), and fine views of the city with its harbor and de- - 
fences, the curving coast of Cape Elizabeth, and the shoreless ocean, are * 
enjoyed. 

* Cushing’s Island is 3-4 M. from the city (frequent steamers), and j 
is the-outermost of the islands in this direction, facing the ocean. The 
* Ottawa Rouse is the only one on the island, which covers 250 acres, and 
is composed of high bluffs. This hotel is a favorite resort for Canadians, 
who are usually in the majority here. The building is of brick, and 
accommodates 150 guests, at $14-18.00 a week. The view from the 
cupola of the Ottawa House (for patrons only) is beautiful, including on 
one side the lovely islets of Casco Bay, then the level-horizoned ocean, 
the ship channel, and the bold shores of Cape Elizabeth. But the view 
over the harbor towards and including Portland is the most pleasing. 
The forts are seen in the foreground, Peak’s Island on the r., and in the 



BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 


Route 38. 275 


remote N. W., if the day is clear, the White Mts. are visible. Sandy 
beaches for bathing, and rocks projecting in deep water, for fishing, lie 
along the shore. An embowered path leads along the ridge to the npper 
end of the island, passing through a fine cedar forest. The walk ends on 
the verge of a lofty precipice of storm-beaten rock (called White Head), 
commanding fine views of the ocean, the bay, and the city. 

Steamers run occasionally in the summer up the length of Casco Bay, 
to Harpswell, a quiet old peninsular town rendered classic by Mrs. 
Stowe’s romance, “ The Pearl of Orr’s Island,” and by Whittier’s poem, 
“ The Dead Ship of Harpswell.” Portland to Bangor and St. John, see 
Route 47 and 49. 


38. Boston to Portland. 

By the Boston ancl Maine Railroad. —Boston to Portland, 115 M, ; fare $3.00. 

After leaving the terminal station on Haymarket Square, Boston, the 
line crosses the Charles River, passes over Prison Point, in Charlestown, 
stops before the crossings of the Fitchburg and the Eastern Railroads, 
and reaches Somerville station. On Winter Hill, in this town, the cap¬ 
tive army of Burgoyne was cantoned for many months. The city of 
Somerville was named in honor of Richard Somers, a brave naval officer, 
who was killed in the Tripolitan War. Leaving Charlestown Heights 
on the r., the line crosses the broad Mystic River, and stops at E. 
Medford, whence a branch line runs to Medford, a busy village interested 
in ship-building and other profitable industries. Tufts College, a flourish¬ 
ing institution under the care of the Universalist Church, is near Medford, 
and on Ship St. is a solid and low-windowed brick house that was built 
by Gov. Cradock’s men in 1634. 

Station, Malden (Malden House, Pratt’s Hotel), the old “ Mystic Side,” 
and now an important manufacturing village near the clustering hills 
which were likened by President Dwight to “ the sweeping flourishes of a 
graceful penman.” 

Adoniram Judson, the apostle of Burmah, was born at Malden in 1788. 
He spent 40 years in and near Rangoon, translated the Bible and other 
books into Burmese, and although he was at times chained and impris¬ 
oned, he succeeded in building up a powerful church with thousands of 
members. 

Stations, Wyoming and Melrose, pleasant suburban villages of recent 
origin. Spot Pond, a favorite summer-day’s resort, is less than 2 M. W. 
of Wyoming. Stoneham station is 2 M. E. of the village of Stoneham 
(Central House), to which it is joined by a horse-railroad. Stoneham has 
22 shoe factories, and does a business of about $ 3,000,000 a year. The 
main line next passes Greenwood, then runs along Crystal Lake (on the 


276 Route 38. WAKEFIELD TO NEWRURYPORT. 


1.), and stops at Wakefield Junction, whence a branch line diverges to the 
E., reaching Salem by way of Lynnfield and Peabody.' 

Wakefield to Newbury port. 

A branch railroad runs from Wakefield Junction to Newburyport in 30 
M. Leaving the elegant mansion and grounds of Cyrus Wakefield, and 
Wakefield Hall, his princely gift to the town, on the L, and the extensive 
rattan-works on the r., the branch line soon crosses the Saugus River, and 
enters Essex County. * Stations, Lynnfield Centre, W. Danvers (where 
the Salem and Lowell Railroad is crossed), and Danvers. The latter is an 
ancient town, which was settled before the middle of the 17th century. 
The witchcraft delusion arose here in 1692, and in 1774 a strong British 
force was cantoned on Danvers Plains, in order to overawe Essex County. 
The town is now dependent on large shoe manufactories, with carpet- 
works and a rolling-mill. The train soon crosses the Salem and Lawrence 
Railroad, and runs N. through the thinly settled towns of Central Essex. 
Station, Topsfield (Topsfield House), settled in 1639, on the scanty in¬ 
tervales along the Ipswich River. Boxford, a sterile town, was incor¬ 
porated in 1686, and has two box-factories. Station, Georgetown (Pen- 
tuclcet House), a bright and busy village E. of the railroad, with consid¬ 
erable manufactories of boots, shoes, and carriages. George Peabody, 
the eminent philanthropist, was employed in this town in his younger 
days (1812-13), and has evinced his pleasant memories of it by present¬ 
ing to Georgetown a fine public library and fund. The Memorial Church 
is a monument of his filial regard. S. W. of the village is Bald Pate, the 
highest hill in Essex. 

A branch railroad runs N. W. from Georgetown through the towns of 
Groveland and Bradford, to the city of Haverhill (7^ M.). 

The train crosses the town of Newbury, and in 9 M. from Georgetown 
reaches Newburyport (see Route 37). 

Wakefield was settled in 1639, and was for over two centuries known as 
S. Reading. In 1868 it assumed its present name in honor of a wealthy 
citizen who had greatly benefited it. Cyrus Wakefield introduced the 
rattan-working industry into this country, and has large factories here. 
His fine residence is seen near the track. The town has 4,135 inhabitants, 
and possesses several shoe factories. 

Passing Lake Quanapowitt (on the r.), the train reaches Reading, 
devoted to the manufacture of shoes, cabinet-ware, organs, &c. Stations, 
Wilmington, Wilmington Junction (where the Salem and Lowell Railroad 
crosses the present route), Ballardvale (with factories making files, Bris¬ 
tol polish, and flannels), and Andover (Elm House; Mansion House). 
This ancient academic town was settled about 1643, on the Indian domain 
of Cochichewick, which was bought from the natives for $26.64 and ar 


ANDOVER 


Route 38. 277 


coa/';. Andover has some active manufactures, hut is chiefly famed for its 
schools. The Punchard High School is a local institution of high stand¬ 
ing. Phillips Academy occupies a fine building on the hill, and is of wide 
reputation. It was endowed by the Phillips family, in 1778, with $ 85,000 
and considerable landed estates, and has since occupied a prominent posi¬ 
tion. The Abbot Female Seminary is an old and famous school for young 
ladies. The Theological Seminary of the Congregational Church was 
founded about 1808, and soon after received liberal endowments ($120,000 
from Samuel Abbot and $ 250,000 from William Bartlett). This insti¬ 
tution has long been “ the school of the prophets ” for the sect to which 
it belongs, and has prepared its ablest divines for their work. Up to 1871 
it had graduated 2,491 men, and in 1873 it had 7 professors and 81 
students. It is under the Presidency of E. A. Park, D. D., a prominent 
divine, who is also the editor of the learned quarterly, the Bibliotheca 
Sacra, which is published here. Ite buildings are very plain, causing the 
visitor to wonder “if orthodox angels have not lifted up old Harvard and 
Massachusetts Halls, and carried them by night from Cambridge to 
Andover Hill.” But the situation is one of extreme beauty, and the 
grounds are quiet and abounding in trees. In front of the line of build¬ 
ings is a long walk shaded by four lines of trees, near whose upper end is 
Brechin Hall, a handsome building of local stone, which contains a library 
of about 30,000 volumes, and a few curiosities. A copy of Eliot’s Indian 
Bible, a superb copy of the Codex Sinaiticus, and various trophies from 
the mission fields are to be seen here. 

John and Peter Smith came to Andover from Brechin, in Scotland, many years 
ago, and amassed large fortunes. They built and gave Brechin Hall to the 
Seminary, and erected noble schools in their native Brechin, on a hill which they 
caused to be named Andover Hill. 

S. of the grounds, and near the Mansion House, is the old home of 
Leonard Woods, D. D., an eminent Calvinistic theologian, who taught in 
the Seminary, 1808 - 46, meanwhile holding controversies with the Uni¬ 
tarians on one side, the Episcopalians on the other, and the Baptists and 
Swedenborgians. The Printery and several dormitory buildings are on 
streets near by. 

Andover was so named because its first settlers came from Andover in 
England. It supported 100 men in the Continental Army. Elizabeth 
Stuart Phelps, authoress of “Sunny Side,” &c., and her daughter, E. S. 
Phelps, authoress of “ Gates Ajar,” &c., were bom here. 

There are pretty ponds in Andover, and the valley of the Shawshine 
River has some pleasant rural scenery, while the view from Andover Hill 
(at sunset especially) is highly praised. Many summer visitors stay here, 
partly attracted by the fine society. 

After leaving Andover, the train arrives at S. Lawrence^ opposite the 
city of Lawrence. Some of the through trains cross the river and enter 


278 Route 38. 


LAWRENCE. 


the city, while others do not, but proceed down the r. bank of the river to 
Haverhill. It is but a few minutes’ walk over the Merrimac River, while 
from the bridge the traveller gets views of the great dam (on the 1.) and of 
the long line of factories (on the r. and front). 

Lawrence. 

Hotels.— * Franklin House, a small but elegantly appointed hotel opposite 
the R. R. Station, $2.50 a day ; Lawrence Hotel; Essex Hotel. 

This city was founded by the Essex Company in 1844, and contained, 
in 1845, 100, and in 1847, 3,000 inhabitants. A powerful stone dam was 
built across the river, giving a fall of 28 ft. and a water-power equal to 
10,000 horse-power. A canal 1 M. long carries the water along the line 
of mills, parallel with the river and 400 ft. from it, and another long canal 
is cut on the S. bank. The principal factories are the Pemberton Mills, 
28,000 spindles, 850 operatives; the^verett Mills, 31,000 spindles, 960 
operatives; the Washington Mills, 62,000 spindles, 1,265 looms, and 2,900 
operatives (using 1,300 tons of wool annually, making broadcloth, doe¬ 
skins, shawls, cambrics, &c.); the Pacific Mills, 136,604 spindles, 3 A 762 
looms, with a capital of $2,500,000, employing 2,400 women- and 1,200 
men, making calicoes, lawns, dress-goods, &c.; the Atlantic Mills, 56,000 
spindles, 1,538 looms, with $1,500,000 capital, and 1,200 hands, making 
16,640,000 yards of sheetings and shirtings ; the Lawrence Woollen Co.; 
the Arlington Woollen Mills; the Russell Paper Co.; and several foun¬ 
dries. 

Lawrence (28,932 inhabitants) is one of the three capitals of Essex Co., 
and is the most beautiful of the manufacturing cities of New-England. 
The mills are separated from the city by the canal, and their great depen¬ 
dent boarding-houses are isolated by a wide green. The city has 18 
churches, 5 Masonic lodges, 4 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 weekly and 2 daily 
newspapers. The Common is a fine green square, with abundance of 
trees, having on its N. side the handsome Oliver High School and the 
Central Cong. Church. On the E. is the 1st Unitarian and Grace Church 
(Epis.), while on the S. are the elegant city and county buildings. In the 
base of the tower of the City Hall are two huge cannon-balls which were 
fired from the iron-clad fleet on the rebellious city of Charleston. The 
“Lawrence American,” the leading daily paper of Essex Co., has a fine 
building. The city has good public libraries, several of which pertain to 
the cotton-mills. The valuation of Lawrence (1870) is $ 17,500,000. On 
a street leading W. from the Common is the stately and elegant church of 
the Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic) in the purest of the simpler 
forms of Gothic architecture. This church was six years in building, and 
is of a handsome gray stone, with interior arches, columns, and a lofty 
clere-story and spire of the same material. In its vicinity are several 



HAVERHILL. 


Route 38. 279 


Catholic institutions, which are powerful and highly beneficent in their 
workings among the factory populations. 

The city was named from Abbot Lawrence, a wealthy and philanthropic Boston 
merchant, who was one of its founders. He was a member of Congress for 5 years. 
Minister to England 1849 -1852, and endowed the Lawrence Scientific School (at 
Cambridge) with $100,000. His son was Consul-General to Italy, 1862-9, and his 
brother Amos was eminent for his generosity, having given $4-500,000 for chari¬ 
table, educational, and religious works. 

One of the most terrible accidents in American history took place here Jan. 10, 
1860, when the Pemberton Mills fell, on account of thin walls and insufficient sup¬ 
ports, and caught fire soon after, burning alive many who had been caught in the 
falling ruins. 525 persons were killed and wounded on that dreadful day. 

The Lowell and Lawrence Division of the Boston and Lowell R. R. runs from 
Lawrence to Lowell, through the towns of Andover and Tewksbury. There ai'e 4 
trains each way daily, in 40 minutes. Distance, 13 M. ; fare, 40 c. 

The Manchester and Lawrence R. R. runs N. W. to Manchester, N. H., in 70 
minutes. Distance, 26 M. ; fare, 80 c. This line passes through Methuen, a flourish¬ 
ing highland village near the Falls of the Spigot River. About 3 M. beyond Law¬ 
rence the line enters the State of New Hampshire. Stations, Salem and Windham. 
The latter village is 2£ M. S. of the station. This town has a few large ponds, and 
Glebe Mt. (1,800 ft. high). Station, Derry (stages to village 2 M. E.), famous for 
apples. 200 city people spent the summer of 1S72 among the quiet farms in this 
town. 

Stations, Wilson’s and Londonderry (stages to the village, 2 M. S.). This town 
was settled in 1719 by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians, from Ulster Co., Ireland, 
and was named for the old country Londonderry, in whose long and terrible siege 
several of the immigrants had been engaged. Before their settlement the district 
was called Nutfield, from the abundance of its nut-trees. On the first day of their 
arrival, the settlers collected under a great oak-tree, and heard a sermon from 
their pastor, after which they began to build their cabins. Although on the 
remote frontiers, the town was never molested by the Franco-Indian marauders, 
commands to that effect having been issued by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, Gov.- 
Gen. of Canada, who had been a classmate at college with McGregore, the Lon¬ 
donderry pastor. The first American resistance to Gen. Gage’s troops was when 
a detachment marched from Boston to this place (46 M.) and captured several 
deserters from the British line regiments. The townsmen rose, and pursued the 
troops, and forced them to release their prisoners, who became residents of Lon¬ 
donderry. Colonels Reed. McCleary, and Gregg, and Gen. Stark (victor at Ben¬ 
nington), all of the Continental Army, were born here. The Seotch-Irish colo¬ 
nists introduced the potato, the foot-wheel, and the loom into New England. 6 
M. beyond Londonderry Station the line -enters the city of Manchester (see 
Route 29). 

The Lawrence Branch (of the Eastern R. R.) runs from Lawrence S. E. to Salem. 


The main line of the Boston and Maine Railroad follows (beyond Law¬ 
rence) the r. hank of the Merrimac River for 10 M., to the city of Haver¬ 
hill, passing N. Andover and Bradford. 

Haverhill (Eagle House ; American House ) is a handsome city, built on 
hills which slope down to the Merrimac River, which is navigable to this 
point (18 miles from the sea). In 1830, it had 3,912 inhabitants, and in 
1870, 13,092. The principal business of the place is the manufacture of 
shoes, in which it is second only to Lynn. In 1869, 6,000 persons were 
here employed in this industry, and over 5,000,000 pairs of shoes were 
made. 

Haverhill has 17 churches, two or three of which ai’e quite handsome. 


280 Route 38. 


EXETER. 


The new City Hall (on Main St.) is an imposing building, well adapted 
for the civic offices. From Golden Hill there is a fine view of the river 
and city, and of the ancient village of Bradford (famed for its academy 
for girls, now occupying extensive buildings on a far-viewing hill. This 
academy was founded in 1803, and was a nursery of missionaries’ wives, — • 
Harriet Newell, Mrs. Judson, and others). 1 M. N. E. of Haverhill, and 
in its rapidly extending suburbs, is the pretty Lake Kenoza, surrounded 
by hills. A neat stone club-house has been built on its banks by some 
Haverhill gentlemen. This lake was named, and has been written of, by 
the poet Whittier, who was bom at Haverhill in 1807. 

A fine Soldiers’ Monument, with a statue of a U. S. soldier (heroic size) 
on a high pedestal, all in white marble, has been erected in the city, N. 
of the City Hall. 

Gen. Moses Hazen, born at Haverhill in 1733. was an officer in the campaigns 
of Crown Point, Louisburg, and Quebec, and commanded the 2d Canadian Con¬ 
tinental Reg. (“ Congress’s Own ”) from 1776 to 1781. He then moved to Ver¬ 
mont, and one of his descendants was Gen. W. B. Hazen, who long fought the 
Comanches, then commanded a brigade (1861 -2) at the battles of Shiloh, Corinth, 
Stone River, Chickamauga, and Mission Ridge. In Sherman’s march to the sea, 
he commanded the 2d division of the 15th corps, with which he stormed Fort 
McAllister, at Savannah, Dec. 13, 1864. 

Haverhill was settled in 1641, on the Indian domain of Pentucket, by a colony 
led by Rev. John Ward, who came from Haverhill in England. The village church 
was scientifically fortified, but the town lost many men during Queen Anne’s War. 
In 1698 the Indians took Mrs. Hannah Duston, with her nurse and her child (6 
days old). The latter they murdered, and, after a long march through the forests, 
told the women that they were to be forced to run the gauntlet when they reached 
the village. That night Mrs. Duston, with the nurse and a young English boy, 
arose silently and killed 10 of the 12 Indians, scalped them, and dropped down 
the river in a bark canoe to Haverhill. In 1708 the village was attacked by 250 
French and Indians, and 40 of its people were killed and captured. 

The river-road to Newburyport runs by the side of the Merrimac, through a 
picturesque succession of hill-towns. Daily stages leave Haverhill for Newbury- 
port, W. Amesbury, and Hampstead. 

A railroad runs from Haverhill to Newburyport via Georgetown, in 16 M. 5 
trains daily are run each way, in 40 - 60 minutes. 

After leaving Haverhill the main line runs N. into New Hampshire. 
Stations, Atkinson (stage to Hampstead), Plaistow (stages to Sandown 
and Danville), Newton, and E. Kingston (stage to Kingston). These are all 
quiet farming towns in Rockingham County, N. H. Station, Exeter (good 
restaurant in the station; Squamscott House ; American House), a pretty 
village of 3,437 inhabitants,, at the head of navigation on Exeter River. 
Exeter was founded by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass, for v the heresy of Antimonianism. He bought this land in the 
wilderness from the Indians, but when it was annexed to Essex Co., 
Mass., in 1642, he was obliged to go into more distant exile. The In¬ 
dians about Squamscott Falls migrated to the vicinity of Troy (on the 
Hudson) in 1672, but other and fiercer tribes menaced the village, and 
nearly 40 of the people were killed and captured during the later Indian 
wars. 38 men of Exeter died in the Continental Army. In 1781, Hon. 


EXETER. 


Route 38. 281 


John Phillips founded Phillips Academy, and endowed it with $ 134,000. 
Benjamin Abbot, LL. D., was preceptor of the Academy from 1788 to 
1838, and Dr. Gideon L. Soule was preceptor from 1838 to 1873. 

Among the distinguished men who have been prepared for college here are John 
Pickering, the jurist and philologist; Abiel Abbot; J. S. Buckminster, the popu¬ 
lar divine; James Walker, the Unitarian theologian ; Nathan Lord, D. D., Presi¬ 
dent of Dartmouth College, 1828-63 ; A. H. Everett, LL. D., the accomplished 
diplomatist (to Belgium, Spain, and China) ; Nathan Hale, LL. D., the journalist; 
Leverett Saltonstall, LL. D. ; J. G. Cogswell, LL. D., of the Astor Library ; 
T. W. Dorr, the R. I. insurgent Governor; J. P. Cushing, President of Hampden- 
Sidney College, Va., 1821-35 ; Theodore Lyman, the philanthropist; Alpheus 
Felch, Senator from Michigan, 1847-53 ; Charles Paine, of Vt. ; John P. Hale, 
one of the first antislavery senators (from N. H., 1847-53, and 1855-65); the 
eminent historians, Richard Hildreth, Jared Sparks, and George Bancroft; Ed¬ 
ward Everett, the statesman and orator; Daniel Webster; and Lewis Cass, who 
was bom at Exeter in 1782. An officer through the War of 1812, Governor of 
Michigan, 1813-31, Secretary of War under Jackson, Minister to France, 1836- 
42, Cass came near being elected President of the U. S. in 1848, receiving 137 elec¬ 
toral votes to 163 given for Gen. Taylor. He was U. S. Senator, 1845-8, and 
1851-7, and from 1857 to Dec., 1860, was Secretary of State. His policy was 
steadily proslavery, but he favored the national government during the Rebellion. 
He died in 1866, at Detroit, where 54 years before he had been made prisoner by 
the British (with the whole Army of the Northwest) while a captain in the 3d 
Ohio Regiment. 

The Academy buildings are pleasantly situated on an elm-shaded 
campus, and are mostly of the old-time architecture. The Robinson 
Female Seminary is also located in Exeter, and is of modem foundation 
and richly endowed. 

Exeter is a farming town, and in the village are the Rockingham County 
buildings. The Squamscott Falls furnish a water-power which is utilized 
by works for the manufacture of cotton and woollen cloths, and car¬ 
riages ; also for large morocco tanneries, brass and machine works, and 
lumber-mills. 

Stages run from Exeter to Kensington, Amesbury, Salisbury, and Newburyport 
(see Route 37); to Kingston, Sandown, Brentwood, Chester, and Fremont, tri¬ 
weekly ; and to Hampton Beach (see Route 37) semi-daily in summer and Sep¬ 
tember. 

Stations, S. Newmarket, and Newmarket Junction (restaurant), where 
the Concord and Portsmouth track crosses the present route. New¬ 
market ( Washington House ; Newmarket House) is a village containing 
cotton and lumber-mills. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Newmarket to Lee, Nottingham, Northwood, 
Epsom, Chichester, and Concord. 

Station, Durham, the old Oyster River settlement, many of whose people 
were killed in various Indian raids during King Philip’s War. In 1695, 
the village was carried by assault, though defended by 12 garrison-houses, 
and nearly 100 of its people were killed or captured. The town is now 
known for its excellent hay-crops, which are obtained from the deep 
argillaceous loam along the Oyster River. Over 1,000 tons are exported 
annually. Stations, Madbury, and Dover {American House ; New IIamp- 




282 Route 38. 


DOVER. 


shire House), a busy little manufacturing city at the lower falls of the 
Cocheco River. Dover has over 9,000 inhabitants, 3 banks, 11 churches, 
4 weekly papers, and extensive manufactories. • The Cocheco Mills em¬ 
ploy 1,000 hands and 50,000 spindles, with a capital of $1,300,000, and 
make 11,000,000 yards of cotton cloths yearly. The Cocheco Print 
Works, with 240 hands, print 16,000,000 yards yearly, and there are 
other branches of industry, the chief of which is the shoe business, in 
which 12 fir rr|s are engaged. Pretty views are obtained from the hills 
near the city, and the City Hall is a handsome structure. 

Dover is the oldest place in the State, having been settled in the spring of 
1623, on the point of land at the confluence of the Newichawannick and Bel¬ 
lamy Rivers (4 M. S. E. of the city). The pioneer colony was composed of Epis¬ 
copalians sent over by the Laconia Company, and they had much trouble with 
the Mass. Puritans. In 1641, Dover was annexed by Mass., and in 1679 was re¬ 
turned to N. H. The people had a man to “ beate the drumme on Lord’s days to 
give notice for the time of meeting” until 1665, when they built “a Terrett upon 
the meitting house for to hang the Bell.” In 1657 they “chose by voet a Scoell- 
master,” and in 1653 they built the meeting-house “40 foote longe and 26 foote 
wide.” Major Walderne settled on the present site of the city, and built a strong 
garrison-house. Here he was visited in 1676, during a time when peace reigned 
in this region, by 400 Indians, two companies of troops being with him. He won 
the confidence of the Indians, and arranged a sham-fight between them and the 
colonial soldiers. When their guns were discharged the troops rushed in and dis¬ 
armed them, after which 200 were sent to Boston as prisoners, Several of these 
were executed on Boston Common, and the remainder were sold into slavery in 
the West Indies. 13' years later a powerful Indian force seized Dover by night, 
and destroyed 4 garrisons, killing 23 and capturing 29 persons. Walderne, then 
74 yeai's old, and commander of the forces of N. H., they captured, and placed 
in a chair on a table within his own hall, where they slowly slashed him to death. 
The town was the object of other disastrous attacks during the Indian wars, but 
was never abandoned by its intrepid people. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Dover to Barrington and Strafford (Bow Lake 
House), near Bow Lake (which covers 1,625 acres), and the Blue Hills. 


Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee. 

The Dover and Winnepesaukee Railroad runs to Alton Bay (28£ M). Stations, 
Pickering’s, and Gonic (with stages running to Ban-ington, Strafford, and Barn- 
stead). At Rochester (see page 213) connections are made with the Portsmouth, 
Great Falls, and Conway R. R., and with the Portland and Rochester R. R. 
Stations, Place’s, and Farmington (Elm House), a shoe-manufacturixxg village near 
the Blue Hills, or Fi'ost Mts. From the loftiest of these hills, Mt. Monadnock, 
the White Mts., and the ocean may be seen on'a clear day. 

Henry Wilson was born at Farmington in 1812. He was educated with money 
earned by his own labor, and settled at Natick (Mass.) in 1838, as a shoemaker. 
Declaring himself an uncompromising foe of negro slavei-y, his abilities soon won 
him honorable fame in the State politics, and after rising from one office to an¬ 
other for 15 years, he was chosen U. S. Senator in 1855. In 1872 he was elected 
Vice-President of the U. S. His most distinguished senatoi’ial labors wei’e in 
connection with the antislavery movement and the Kansas troubles, emancipa¬ 
tion, reconstruction, and the conduct of the war. 

After leaving Farmington the line passes three rural stations, and stops at Al¬ 
ton Bay, on Lake Winnepesaukee. The Bay View House is located here ($10.00 
a week and upwards), and has a large livery stable attached, with pleasant drives 
in the vicinity. (See page 218). 

Stages run from Alton to the three villages (North, Centre, and Parade) of 
Barnstead ; to Pittsfield, 15 M ; to Lake Village and Laconia, 18-20 M. ; and to 
Wolfboi’o, 10 M. 


OLD ORCHARD BEACH. 


Route 38. 283 


The fine iron steamer, “ Mt. Washington,” leaves Alton Bay on arrival of the 
trains, twice daily (in summer), for the villages on the lake. The distance to 
Centre Harbor is 30 M. (see Route 32). 

The first station beyond Dover, on the main line, is Rottinsford, whence 
a branch track runs (in 3 M.) to the factories at Great Falls. Station, 
Salmon Falls (Franklin House), the seat of two cotton-mills at the falls 
on the Newichawannick River. At Salmon Falls the Boston and Maine 
Extension R. R. begins, and runs to Portland in 40 M., having been 
opened to travel in the spring of 1873. The Boston and Maine cars for¬ 
merly ran from S. Berwick Junction to Portland over the rails of 
Route 37. 

After passing N. Berwick, Wells is reached (in 14 M. from Salmon Falls). 
The station is about 1 M. from, and is the nearest route to, Wells Beach 
(Atlantic House; Island Ledge House), which is one of the best of the 
Maine beaches. Stations, Kennebunk (about 2| M. from the maritime 
hamlet of Kennebunkport), Biddeford , and Saco (see Route 37.) The 
train crosses the Saco River between the busy manufacturing cities of 
Biddeford and Saco, and bears away for 4 M. to Old Orchard Beach 
(* Old Orchard House, 400 guests, $ 14- 25.00 a week, — telegraph, band, 
and ball and reading rooms in the house ; * Ocean House, near the former, 
and of great extent; the Gorham and the Montreal Houses are less ex¬ 
pensive). The track runs between the great hotels (on the 1.) and the 
beach, and the station is very commodiously situated. Stages run from 
the beach to the Saco station on Route 37. This beach, which has been 
called the finest in New England, extends from the Saco River to Pine 
Point, at the mouth of Scarborough River, a distance of 10 M., with a 
breadth (at low water) of 300 ft. The sand is very hard and smooth, and 
affords an admirable drive-way, while from the absence of undertow, the 
surf-batliing is perfectly safe. Near the hotels is a beautiful forest-park 
of 30 acres, with pleasant paths, arbors, and rustic adornments. About 
2 M. distant, on Foxwell’s Brook, is a picturesque waterfall, 60 ft. high. 
The beach derives its name from an ancient orchard of apple-trees, the 
last of which died before the Revolution. Old Orchard is probably the 
most fashionable of the seaside resorts E. of Hampton and Rye, if not of 
all E. of Swampscott. 

M. from Old Orchard is Scarborough station, which is about 3 M. 
from Scarborough Beach. The train now runs over Cape Elizabeth, 
crosses Fore River on a long and costly bridge, and enters Portland, 
6J M. from Scarborough, and 115 M. from Boston. 





284 Route 39. 


LAKE SEBAGO. 


39. Portland to the White Mts. 

Portland to N. Conway, 60 M., by the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad. 
This line is now being pushed forward from N. Conway into the Crawford Notch. 
The company is constructing a through route from Portland to Montreal and 
Ogdensburg, for the transportation of passengers and of Western produce. It 
has already been built from Portland nearly to the Notch, from W. Concord 
through St. Johnsbury to Wolcott (in. Vermont), and for some distance S. E. 
from Sheldon. Considerably more than half the track (in New England) has been 
laid, and the ends of the various sections are slowly approaching each other, the 
company being aided by liberal loans from the towns on the route. 

The train leaves the union station in Portland under Bramhall Hill, and 
passes out to Westbrook (in a town of about 7,000 inhabitants), with 
several villages in which are manufactured cotton cloths, twine, wire, 
and iron goods, with large quantities of paper. Immense quantities 
of canned goods are prepared here, and the total manufactures of West¬ 
brook amount to $ 3,500,000 yearly. Station, S. Windham, in a town 
which was settled in 1737 and guarded by a Mass. fort. The Oriental 
Powder Works are located here, and the Mallison Falls on the Presump- 
scott River are S. of the village. Stations, White Rock, and Sebago 
Lake, whence steamers leave for Harrison. 

Lake Sebago 

is 14 M. long by 11 M. wide, and has a depth, in some parts, of 400 ft. 
6 towns are on its shores, and others are located on the connecting lakes 
to the N. Fine steamers leave Pavilion Bay (at Lake Sebago station) and 
soon pass (on the r.) Indian Island, and Frye’s Island, with 1,000 acres of 
forest. When the broader part of the lake is gained, “to the N. E., 
Rattlesnake Mt. is seen ; and in the same direction, near the lake, is the 
boyhood home of Nathaniel Hawthorne. We also pass on our r. the 14 
Dingley Islands. The scenery on the W. is wilder and more rugged. 
Saddleback Mt., in Baldwin, is plainly visible, from which the eye roams 
N. E., beyond the Great Bay, over the Sebago hills and farms and 
forests. Still farther N. is Peaked Mt., beyond which the view extends 
N. to Mt. Kiarsarge (Pequawket), so blue and cold in the hazy distance, 
while the White Hills may be distinctly seen if the day is tolerably clear. ” 
The passage across Sebago (“ a stretch of water”) occupies one hour, after 
which the steamer enters the rapid and devious Songo River. “ It is but 
2| M., as the crow flies, to the head of the river, and yet we must sail 6 M. 
and make 27 turns. Picturesque contrasts of farm and forest, granite 
ledge and intervale, make the voyage on these narrow waters pleasant and 
novel. 5 M. from Sebago the steamer enters a lock at the confluence of 
Crooked or Pequawket River, which rises about 35 M. N. in the town of 
Albany. After rising several feet in the lock, the steamer passes N. into 
the Bay of Naples, near the head of which is Naples (film House), a small 


FRYEBURG. 


Route 39. 285 


j village in a farming town. Before stopping at this place, the steamer 
i passes through a drawbridge, and, after leaving it, it steams out on Long 
Lake. This is a river-like expanse of water 12 -14 M. long and less than 
2 M. wide. 9 M. from Naples the boat stops at Bridgton, whence a stage 
runs 1 M. W. to Bridgton Centre ( Bridgton House ; Cumberland House). 
This is an important manufacturing village, with a weekly paper, a 
savings-bank, and three churches, in a town originally called Pondicherry, 
from the abundance of small ponds and wild cherries found there. This 
village has become somewhat of a summer resort in a quiet way, from its 
vicinity to the lake and to picturesqxie hill-scenery. The next stopping- 
place on the lake is N. Bridgton (Lake House), a small village on the 
stage line from Fryeburg to S. Paris. N. of this place is Waterford, 
(Bear Mt. House ; Forest House), a thinly settled town with 12 ponds and 
much picturesque scenery. The steamer now crosses the lake to Harrison 
(Elm House), a small hamlet at the end of the route. Daily stages run 
from Harrison to S. Paris on the Grand Trunk Railway (14 M. N. E.; 
fare $ 1.00). 


After leaving the Lake Sebago Station, the train passes the stations, 
Richville and Steep Falls, in the town of Standish, which was granted to 
and settled by veterans of the Louisburg campaigns, and named after the 
Pilgrim captain. Beyond Steep Falls, the line follows the valley of the 
Saco, and passes through the town of Baldwin (stations, Baldwin and W. 
Baldwin). The Great Falls of the Saco are seen from the train beyond 
W. Baldwin, near which the Ossipee River meets the Saco. The river 
falls 72 ft. in several successive pitches. The train now enters the town 
of Hiram, on narrow intervales along the Saco, and stops at Hiram Bridge 
(Mt. Cutler House). As the train crosses the old pine-plains of Hiram 
and enters Brownfield, occasional glimpses are caught of Mt. Pleasant, a 
few miles N. in Denmark. This is a lofty, isolated mountain, 8 -10 M. 
around at the base, with a public house on its summit, from which the 
view is said to be fine, and by some it is held to be equal to that from 
Mt. Washington. The principal view is to the N. W. along the fluster¬ 
ing peaks of the White Mts. Station, Brownfield (Brownfield House), 
whose farm-houses admit many summer visitors, Burnt: Meadow and 
Frost Mts. being the principal objects of interest. Stages leave daily for 
Denmark, and for Bridgton, on Lake Sebago. 

The plains along the river grow wider and more productive, as the 
train passes on to Fryeburg (Oxford House), a pretty village “on a 
broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the intervales of the Saco, 
which encloses it in one of its huge folds.” Many summer visitors rest 
at the comfortable old hotel, while others are quartered in the boarding- 





28G Route 39. 


FRYEBURG. 


houses which are found in the village. The intervales of Fryeburg are 
noted for their richness and beauty, and contain nearly 10,000 acres which 
are annually overflowed and fertilized by the Saco. On these meadows is 
the winter home of large droves of cattle who graze on the mountains 
during the summer. There are several thousand acres of forest in the 
town and it is claimed that Fryeburg has more standing timber now than 
it had 40 years ago. The principal points for excursions are Stark’s Hill j 
(500 ft. high), Jockey Cap, and Pine Hill, eminences near the village, which 
command panoramic views of the distant White Mts. and of Chocorua. 
Mt. Pleasant is 9 M. to the E., and is often visited for the sake of its 
noble over-view, and Lovewell’s Pond is near the village (by the Pine 
Street road). 


Capt. John Lovewell, the son of an ensign in Cromwell’s Puritan army, was an able 
partisan officer of the colonies. In April, 1725, he led 40 men from the Mass, fron¬ 
tier towns by a long and arduous march into the heart of the Pequawket country. 
After marching over 100 M., they reached Saco (now Lovewell’s) Pond with 34 j 
men, and here they encamped for 36 hours, near the chief village of the Indians. 

On Saturday, May 6, while they were assembled around the chaplain on the 
beach, and ere the morning devotions had been finished, a gun was heard and an ; 
Indian was seen watching them. They left their packs near the pond, and ad¬ 
vanced toward the intervales, but met an Indian in the forest who shot and mor¬ 
tally wounded Lovewell, though his own death followed quickly. Meantime the 
Sachem Paugus and 80 warriors had found and counted the packs and laid an 
ambuscade near them, which completely entrapped the Americans on their 
return. The magnanimous Paugus ordered his men to fire over the heads of the 
invaders, and then to bind them with ropes. With horrid yells the Indians leaped 
forth and asked Lovewell if he would have quarter. “ Only at the muzzles of 
your guns ! ” shouted the brave captain, and led his men against the unprepared 
enemy. They drove the Indians some rods, but were repulsed by a fierce counter¬ 
charge, in which Lovewell and 8 of his men were killed. Then the Americans 
retreated slowly, fighting inch by inch, to a position with the pond on their rear. 
Battle Creek on the r., and Rocky Point on the 1. This sheltered position they 
maintained for eight hours against continual assaults, and at sundown the In¬ 
dians retreated, leaving 39 killed and wounded, including Paugus, who fell late in 
the contest. Throughout the long day the yells of the Indians, the cheers of the 
Americans, and the pattering of musketry resounded through the forest, while 
Chaplain Frye, mortally wounded while fighting among the foremost, was often 
heard praying for victory. In .the moonlit midnight hour the provincials re¬ 
treated, leaving 15 of their number dead and dying on the field, while 10 of the 
19 others were wounded. After suffering terribly on the retreat, the little band 
reached the settlements. The battle at Pequawket filled the northern tribes with 
fear, and caused some of them to move to Canada. A long and mournful ballad 
of 30 stanzas (like the old Scottish ballad of Chevy Chase) commemorates this 
forest-fight. 

“ What time the noble Lovewell came 
With fifty men from Dunstable, 

The cruel Pequot tribe to tame 
With arms and bloodshed terrible. 

“ Ah! many a wife shall rend her hair, 

And many a child cry ' Woe is mel ’ 

When messengers the news shall bear 
Of Lovewell's dear-bought victory. 

“ With footsteps low shall travellers go 

Where Lovewell's Pond shines clear and bright, 

And mark the place where those are laid 
Who fell in Lovewell s bloody fight.” 

Fryeburg was granted to, settled by, and named for, Gen. Joseph Frye, of An- j 










PORTLAND TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Routed. 287 


dover, Mass., a veteran officer of the French wars. It was for many years the 
only town near the White Mts., and grew rapidly, having a weekly market-day 
which filled its streets with busy life. An academy was early established here 
(endowed by Mass.), and was taught in 1802 by Daniel Webster.' Governor Enoch 
Lincoln lived here from 1811 to 1819, and wrote a long poem, entitled “The Vil¬ 
lage,” which was “descriptive of the beautiful scenery of the fairest town on the 
stream of the Saco.” A few Pequawket Indians lingered in this locality after the 
dispersal of the tribe, and did good service in the expedition of Rogers’s Rangers 
against St. Francis, and in the Continental Army. 


Stages run from Fryeburg to Paris, by way of Lovell, Sweden, Waterford, and 
Norway (30 M.) ; also by Bridgton, Harrison, and Norway (32 M.). These towns 
are all in the Pequawket country, and Lovell (2 small inns) has the beautiful 
Kezer Pond, which is 1 M. wide and 8 M. long. 

After the train leaves Fryeburg, the mountain views in front and to the 
1. are fine. The line enters New. Hampshire, and passes by Conway 
Centre to N. Conway (see page 223) and Upper Bartlett. 

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal. 

Via the Grand Trunk Railway, which is owned and operated by an Anglo-Cana¬ 
dian corporation. This line is principally used for the transportation of freight, 
but it runs one through passenger train daily. Portland to Gorham, 91 M., in 4J- 
6 hours ; to Quebec, 317 M., in 19-20 hours; to Montreal, 297 M., in 17^-19 
hours. 

The train leaves the spacious terminal station in Portland, near the Vic¬ 
toria Docks, and, passing around Munjoy’s Iiill, crosses the mouth of 
Back Cove. Thence it runs through the towns of Falmouth and Cumber¬ 
land, near Casco Bay, and crosses the Maine Central Railway at Yar¬ 
mouth Junction. 

Station, N. Yarmouth, settled on the Indian domain of Wescustogo 
about 1640, and deserted in 1675-8, and 1688-1713, on account of the 
Indian wars. On returning in 1713, the settlers found a young forest cov¬ 
ering their old fields and roads. Between 1725 and 1756 many of the 
colonists were killed or captured by the Indians. During the first half of 
the present century, the town grew and prospered, but during the past 20 
years it has lost 16 per cent of its population. Stages run hence to Dur¬ 
ham, on the Androscoggin. 

Stations, Poumal and New Gloucester, the latter being a pretty and 
prosperous village which was founded by men of Gloucester, Mass., about 
1735. At Danville Junction the Lewiston Division of the Maine Central 
Railway diverges N. E., and runs to Lewiston, Farmington, Waterville, 
and Bangor (see Route 46.) 

Station, Mechanic Falls, near a small factory village, from which tri¬ 
weekly stages run to Sumner (18 M. ; fare, 75 c.). 

The Portland and Oxford Central Railway runs N. from Mechanic Falls, passing 
through the towns of Oxford, Hebron, Ruckheld, Hartfoid, and Canton (three 
inns.)° These towns were all settled in the latter years of the 18th century, and 
the last four named have been losing in population for 20 years. Canton was the 








288 Route#). 


BETHEL. 


home of the Rockoraeka Indians (who were exterminated by the small-pox in 
1557\ and was settled in 1792 under the name of Pkipps-Canada. It is prettily 
situated near the Androscoggin River, and has some rich intervale lands. 

The next station on the main line is Oxford (Lake House), from which 
tri-weekly stages run to E. Otisfield, Casco, and Naples. ; 

Station, S. Paris (Andrews House), a busy village, with manufactures 
and a large country trade. Daily stages run hence to Fryeburg, 33 M. S. 
W. (fare, $2.00), by way of Norway, Harrison, and Bridgton; also byway 
of Waterford. Stages run from every train to Paris Hill ( Hubbard 
House; Union House), 3 M. N. E. This is a village on a hill 831 ft. 
high, where are located the Oxford County buildings. To the E. is Mt. 
Mica, where beautiful specimens of tourmaline are found, together with 15 
other minerals. It is called “ the most interesting locality of rare min¬ 
erals in the State of Maine.” Streaked Mt. is near by, and is nearly 
1,800 ft. high. Stations, W. Paris and Bryant's Pond (small inn), from 
which tri-weekly stages run to Milton Plantation, Rumford, and Andover 
(21 M. N.; fare, $ 1.50); also to Rumford, Mexico, Dixfield, and N. Jay 
(on the Androscoggin Railroad). Another line runs from Mexico through 
Roxbury to Byron. Rumford has some high hills, — White Cap, Glass- 
Face, and others, which yield thousands of bushels of blueberries annually. 
The Rumford Falls have been called “ the grandest in New England,” 
and have suffered but little from “improvement.” The descent of the 
Androscoggin River is over 150 ft. in three or four plunges over ragged 
granite ledges. The third fall has a nearly perpendicular descent of 70 - 
80 ft., and its roaring is heard at a great distance. There are three taverns 
in Rumford. 

At Bryant’s Pond station the track is 700 ft. above the sea, and the 
Pond itself is a pretty highland lake, from which flows the Little Andros¬ 
coggin River. Station, Bethel (* Chandler House, accommodating 100 
guests ; Chapman House), a beautiful village in a town of about 2,200 
inhabitants. The broad intervales of the Androscoggin are outspread here 
in all their fertility and fairness, while noble views of the White Mts. in 
the W. are obtained from adjacent hills. There are also mineral springs 
(small hotel) in the town, and numerous summer boarding-houses, where 
comfort, quiet, and abundant country fare are given for the moderate 
price of $ 6-10.00 a week. 

Bethel has often been likened to N. Conway on account of its mountain- 
views and rich intervales, and many city people spend their summers 
here to enjoy the air, the scenery, and the fine fishing in the vicinity. 12 
M. S. of Bethel are the Albany Basins, where the Pequawket River has 
worn a wonderful series of reservoirs in the talcose rock, the largest of 
which is 70 ft. deep and 40 ft. in diameter. 18 M. N. E. of Bethel, by 
good roads and through pleasant river-scenery, are the Rumford Falls. 


GILEAD. 


Route I/.0. 289 


Bethel to Lake Urahagog. 

Semi-weekly stage to Upton, at the foot of the lake, in 26 M. ; fare, $2.50. The 
country traversed is mostly in a wild state and thinly populated, but affords some 
striking river and mountain scenery. The Androscoggin is followed for 6 M. to 
A Newry (small inn), after which the road lies near the Bear River, and 6 M. be¬ 
yond S. Newry, Bartlett's Poplar Tavern is passed. The Screw Auger Falls are 
about 3 M. from this point, and near Fanning’s Mills. Beyond the Tavern the 
high hills of Grafton (chief among which are Speckled and Saddleback Mts.) ap¬ 
pear to close across the road. But the Bear River is closely followed into Graf¬ 
ton Notch, a lonely pass among the frowning hills. The remarkable water- 
gorge known as Moose Chasm is situated in this notch. The small Cambridge 
River is now approached, and in its valley the road passes on to the lake. The 
township of Upton (formerly Letter B. Plantation, and made a town in 1860) is 
now entered, and tire stage stops at the Lake House, on the shore of Umbagog. 
There are two other inns in this town, which has 180 inhabitants. A steamer 
leaves the Lake House on the arrival of the stage, and runs to Errol Dam (in N. 
H.), a rude lumbermen’s village, with two inns. Dixville Notch is 10 M. N. W. 
of Errol, and the handsome village of Colebrook is 20 M. from Errol (by the Notch 
road). From Bethel to Colebrook (see page 243), the distance is about 60 M. (the 
excursion is not recommended for ladies). 

The steamer ascends the Magalloway River from Errol Dam to Durfee’s Land¬ 
ing (12 M.), whence adventurous parties of gentlemen have ascended to Parma- 
chene Lake and Camel’s RumpMt., which overlooks a wide and desolate wilder¬ 
ness (see Harper’s Magazine, Vol. XX.). 


Betliel was settled in 1773, under the name of Sudbury-Canada, and here, in 
1781, occurred the last Indian depredation in Maine, when a small war-party 
from St. Francis plundered the outlying houses, killed three men, and led three 
prisoners to Canada. 

The next station beyond Betliel is Gilead , a small village on the fertile 
Androscoggin meadows, between two ranges of shaggy mountains. It 
was named for a great balm-of-Gilead tree within its borders, and in the 
early years was almost rendered untenable by bold raids of bears with 
which the hills were infested. On the night of the Willey slide in the 
White Mt. Notch (1826), immense avalanches fell from the mountains of 
Gilead, especially from Picked Hill. “ The darkness was so intense as 
almost to be felt. The vivid lightnings and long streams of fire covering 
the sides of the mountains caused by the concussion of the rocks, only 
served to make the darkness more visible. The valley rocked as though 
an earthquake were shaking the earth. ” 

Beyond Bethel the railway passes the village of W. Bethel and runs 
through the glens of Gilead to Shelburne (Winthrop House). From this 
point the mountain-views on the S. W. are fine, and the train runs down 
on the r. bank of the Androscoggin, with Mt. Moriah on the 1. and Mt. 
Hayes on the r., to Gorham (see page 227). Station, Berlin Falls (small 
hotel), near the famous Falls on the river, and next to Berlin is Milan , 
“ on the plains of Lumber-dy.” The view down the river from Milan is 
very beautiful, including the vast forms of Mts. Washington, Adams, and 
Madison. E. of Milan is the town of Success, with 5 inhabitants, and 
N. of Stark, through which the train passes beyond Milan, is the town 
13 s 




290 Route 40. 


ST. HYACINTHE. 


of Odell, with about 25,000 acres and 1 inhabitant. The line now follows 
the Upper Ammonoosuc River, to Northumberland, and thence passes up 
the 1. bank of the Connecticut River to Stratford and N. Stratford, with 
the Percy Peaks on the r. (see page 243). The line now crosses the river 
and runs through 15 M. of uninhabited forest in Vermont, to Island Pond 
(* Island Pond Hotel; American; Green Mt. ); a village erected by 
the railway, which has spacious buildings here; this point being 149 
M. from Portland and 148 M. from Montreal. The border custom-house is 
located here, and near the village and track is a pretty lake, 2 M. long 
and ^ M. wide, surrounded by a hard, smooth beach of white quartz 
sand, with waters abounding in fish. About 12 M. beyond Island Pond, 
the train passes Norton Pond, and enters the Dominion of Canada. In 
the course of the next 33 M. the train passes 3 stations, and reaches 
Lennoxville, where the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers R. R. 
(Route 24) comes in from the S. 28 M. beyond Lennoxville is Richmond 
(on the St. Francis River), the seat of St. Francis College. 

The Quebec Branch runs 76 M. N. E. from Richmond to Quebec. 
Station, Danville, a pretty rural village, with beautiful views from Clare¬ 
mont Hill and the Pinnacle (which is 3 M. from Danville, and rises 1,000 
ft. from the plain). Kingsey Falls are 7 M. distant, and are often visited. 
Station, Arthabaska, whence a branch road runs 35 M. -N. W. down the 
Becancour valley to Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence. 10 M. E. of 
Arthabaska is Rouillard Mt., whence a broad forest-view is gained, ex¬ 
tending from the St. Lawrence 40 M. N. W. to the bright Lakes Aylmer 
and St. Francis, in the distant S. E. The train now passes on through a 
thinly populated country, and crosses the Chaudiere River about 8 M. 
from Quebec (2-3 M. from the Falls), and near the point where the Riviere 
du Loup Division (125 M. long) of the Grand Trunk Railway diverges to 
the N.E. The train stops at Point Levi , opposite Quebec, and pas¬ 
sengers are carried across the St. Lawrence in ferry-boats. 

Quebec, see Route 56. 

From Richmond to Montreal the distance is 76 M. (almost due W.). 
After passing the copper-mining town of Acton, the train reaches St. 
Hyacinthe, 35 M. from Montreal. This is a curious old Franco-Cana- 
dian city, pleasantly situated on the plains on both sides of the Yamaska 
River. The Cathedral is a fine building, and the college is one of the 
best in America. “ The course of studies here is said to be only equalled 
by the best Jesuit colleges in France.” The * college building is an im¬ 
posing structure of cut stone, 700 ft. long, and surmounted by a cupola. 
The fertile district between St. Hyacinthe and Montreal is inhabited by 
the descendants of the old French immigrants, preserving their language, 
customs, and religion intact. The railway stations on this tract are 
Soixante, St. Hilaire, St. Bruno, St. Hubert, and St. Lambert. The 


FARMINGTON. 


Route 41- 291 


singular nits, of Beloeil, Yamaska, and Rougemont are passed, and at 
St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence on the * Victoria Bridge. 
Montreal, see Route 54. 


41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest. 

Portland to Farmington, 93 M., in 5 hours ; to the Rangeley Lakes, 133 M. 

The train leaves the Portland and Kennebec station and runs over Route 
47 to Brunswick, where it passes on to the rails of the Androscoggin 
Division of the Maine Central Railway. Stations, Lisbon Falls (a manu¬ 
facturing village on the falls of the Androscoggin), Lisbon, Crowley's 
(whence a branch railroad diverges to Lewiston) Sabbatisville, and Leeds 
Junction. At this point the present route is crossed by Route 46, and 
close connections are made, so that passengers who prefer that route may 
avail themselves of it. For the next 12 M. the line runs through the 
town of Leeds, stopping at the stations, Curtis Corner, Leeds Centre, and 
N. Leeds . 

Gen. O. O. Howard was horn at Leeds in 1830. He graduated at West Point, 
and was an instructor there until the outbreak of the Rebellion in 1861. Leading 
the 3d Maine Volunteer Infantry into the field, he won distinction and a general’s 
commission at Bull Run, and lost his right arm at the battle of Fair Oaks. He 
commanded the 11th corps of the Army of the Potomac at Fredericksburg, 
Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg, and then fought in the Georgia campaigns. He 
commanded the right wing of Sherman’s army in the march to the sea, and 
since the war has been engaged in the work of bettering the condition of the 
negroes and Indians. 

The next three stations (Strickland’s Ferry, E. Livermore, and Liver¬ 
more Falls) are in the long town of E. Livermore, where the train ap¬ 
proaches the Androscoggin River. Livermore Falls is devoted to manu¬ 
factures. This district was called Rockomeka, or “ great corn land,” by 
the Indians, and is distinguished for its fine breeds of cattle. 

Just across the river is the town of Livermore, the birthplace of the brothers,— 
Israel Washburne, Congressman, 1851-61, and Gov. of Maine, 1861-3; E. B. 
Washburne, Congressman from Illinois, 1853-69, and Minister to France, 1869- 73, 
an able statesman and skilful d : plomatist ; and C. C. Washburne, Congressman 
from Wisconsin, 1856-62 and 1867 -71, a successful general in the campaigns in the 
lower Mississippi valley, and chosen Gov. of Wisconsin in 1871. 

Stations, Jay Bridge and N. Jay (stages to Dixfield and Bryant’s 
Pond, on Route 40, in 37 M.), in the farming town of Jay, and Wilton, a 
manufacturing village, from which stages run W. 13 M. to Weld (Mon¬ 
days and Fridays), a village (small inn) on the shore of a lake, with lofty 
mts. in the vicinity. Bear Mt. is on the S., Ben Nevis on the W., Metal¬ 
lic Mt. on the N., and Bald and Blue Mts. on the E., the latter being 
nearly 4,000 ft. above the sea, and 2,360 ft. above -the village. Stages 
also run to Chesterville, on the E. 

Beyond E. Wilton, the train crosses the Sandy River and its intervales 
on a broad, curving trestle, and stops at Farmington ( Stoddard House ; 


292 Route 41- the RANGELEY LAKES. 


Forest House; Elm House). The town has 3,252 inhabitants, with 2 
banks, a weekly paper, and 5 churches. This bright village is situated 
<?n the favorite grain-lands of the old Canibas Indians, and has also a 
lucrative lumber-trade. The Western State Normal School is located 
here; also the Little Blue School, the Willows (girls’ school), and the 
Farmington Girls’ School, so that this remote village on the edge of the 
Forest has somewhat of an academic air. The Franklin County buildings 
are also located here. 

Stages run from Farmington to Temple; to Strong, Avon, and Phillips ; to 
Strong, Freeman, and Salem ; to New Vineyard, New Portland, and Kingfield ; to 
Industry and Starks ; to New Sharon, Rome, Belgrade, and Augusta. 

New Portland and Kingfield (Franklin House) are picturesque hut thinly popu¬ 
lated mt. towns. Near Kingfield on the W. is the Mt. Abraham Range, 8,887 ft. 
high. The natural and civil histories of the Maine border towns are monoto¬ 
nously alike. They were mostly settled between 1775 and 1800, exhibited a slow 
growth until 1860, and then began to retrograde. The losses occasioned by the 
war, the great emigration westward, and the sterility of the New England race 
are the reasons generally assigned for this decadence, while the severity of the 
cl'mate, the destruction of the forests, and the exhaustion of the soil, are self- 
evident natural causes of decline. Franklin County, through which the present 
route is laid, had nearly 2,000 more inhabitants in 1860 than in 1870, and in that 
same decade the State lost 7,872 in population. This has been Maine’s loss, but 
the Union’s gain, and natives of this State may be found in posts of trust and 
honor in nearly every large American community. 

Farmington to the Rangeley Lakes. 

The stage leaves on arrival of the Boston train, and follows up the 
Sandy River valley with Mt. Blue on the 1., to Strong {Former's Ho¬ 
tel), whence another stage runs to Freeman and Salem. Mt. Blue is 
rounded on the 1., and the stage passes through a thinly populated country 
to Phillips (Barden House). The village is situated in the valley, within 
an easy distance of Mt. Blue, and near some fine trout-streams. It is 
18-20 M. from Farmington, and 20-22 M. from the lake. Travellers 
usually spend the night here, and take stage in the morning, passing 
through the town of Madrid (Madrid House). The Saddleback Mt., 
whose chief peak is nearly 4,000 ft. high, is seen on the r., and the stage 
reaches the Indian Rock House after passing through a dreary wilderness 
beyond. This forest tavern is on a favorite old Indian camp-ground, and 
is near the curiously bent and contorted strata of Indian Rock. Lake 
Oquossoc, or Rangeley, is 7 M. long, and its extreme width is 2 M. It 
is 1,511 ft. above the sea, and is surrounded by hills, prominent among 
which is Saddleback Mt., on the E. Moosetocmaguntic Lake is reached 
by boat, or by a rude forest-road from Indian Rock, and is 10 M. long by 
2 - 4 M. wide. A chain of large lakes extends from Rangeley to Umba- 
gog, embracing 80 square miles of water surface, and abounding with 
blue-back trout and other fish.’ Travelling in this remote wilderness is 
very difficult, and good guides should be obtained. 

About 30 M. directly N. W. of Indian Rock, on a line which crosses the Ken- 


PORTLAND TO THE UPPER KENNEBEC. Route 42. 2 9 3 

nebago and Cupsuptic (famous trout-streams), is the iron post which marks the 
intersecting corners of Maine, New Hampshire, and Canada. A line of iron posts 
runs thence N. W. for over 80 M. to the Boundary Branch of the St. Francis River 
marking the bounds between this part of the U. S. and Canada, as established in 


42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

By either of the Routes 46 or 47 to Waterville, and thence by a branch railroad 
in 16 M. to Skovvhegan. This line passes along the r. bank of the Kennebec, 
with the stations, Fairfield, Somerset Mills, and Pishon Ferry, all in the town of 
Fairfield. 

The new Somerset Railroad is now in operation from W. Waterville (Route 46) 
to Norridgewock, a distance of 15 M., and is being pushed on to Solon. 

Skowhegan (Turner House; the extensive Skowhegan Hotel was 
burnt in 1872) is a pleasant village in a prosperous town of about 4,000 
inhabitants. It has 3 banks, a weekly paper, and. 5 churches, and 
derives its importance from numerous manufactories situated on a large 
water-power. The Kennebec here falls 28 ft. perpendicularly over ragged 
ledges, with a picturesque island ending at the crest of the fall. The 
falls are best viewed from the point near the site of the Skowhegan Ho¬ 
tel, or from the carriage-bridge below. From the latter point there is a 
pleasant view down the river, the most prominent object being the grace¬ 
ful railway-bridge, while the stream near the Turner House is narrowed 
between high, rocky banks like a western canon. It is said that the envi¬ 
rons of Skowhegan furnish fine fishing in the line of trout and pickerel, 
while the rural scenery is bright and pleasing. The favorite drive is to 
Norridgewock (5 M.) by a fine river-road, returning by a river-road on the 
opposite bank, and affording beautiful views of the blue Kennebec. 

Stages run from Skowhegan to Moosehead Lake, 50 M. (see Route 43); to Har¬ 
mony, 20 M. ; and to the remote forest-plantations of Flag-staff, Dead River, and 
the Forks. 

Norridgewock (two inns) is a beautiful rural town, situated on both 
sides of the Kennebec, which separates its two villages. At the N. vil¬ 
lage, 5 M. from Skowhegan, are the old Somerset County bviildings, with 
a broad river-side street on which stand some rare and immense old trees. 
The river is here crossed by a carriage-bridge and a fine railway-bridge. 
5-6 M. above the village, and near the confluence of the Kennebec and 
the Sandy Rivers, is Old Point. 

At Old Point was the chief town of the Canibas Indians, a powerful tribe of 
the Abenaqui nation. As early as 1610 French missionaries from Quebec settled 
here, and in 1695 Sebastian Rale, a French Jesuit, came from Canada and be¬ 
came the spiritual and (practically) political chief of the tribe. Rale was a 
man of high culture, and had been Greek professor in the College of Nismes (in 
S. France). He prepared a complete dictionary (now at Harvard University) of 
the Abenaqui language, which had diminutives and augmentatives like the 
Italian, and was “a powerful and flexible language, — the Greek of America.” 
While the colonial government policy was generally equitable and fair toward the 
Indians, frequent gross injuries and cruelties were inflicted on them by irrespon¬ 
sible English adventurers. Hence a burning sense of wrongs endured and the 



294 Route 42. PORTLAND TO THE UPPER KENNEBEC. 


loss of tlieir ancestral lands forced the Indians into a constant state of warlike 
fervor. It is said that Father Rale had a superb consecrated banner floating 
before his church, and emblazoned with the cross arid a bow and sheaf of arrows. 
This was the crusading flag borne often and again over.the smoking ruins of 
Maine and N. H. villages. In 1705 Norridgewock was destroyed by 270 colonial 
soldiers, who marched thither swiftly in winter by the aid of snow-shoes. At the 
close of Queen Anne’s War (Peace of Utrecht) the Sachem of the tribe went to 
Boston, to demand workmen to rebuild the village-church, and an indemnity for 
the destruction of the houses. Mass, promised both, on condition that Norridge¬ 
wock would accept a Puritan pastor, but the Sachem refused the condition. The 
Indians soon restored their homes, and suffered another plundering raid in 1722, 
for which the coast of Maine paid dearly. I 11 1724 it was seen that the tribe 
must be driven away before the coast-towns could be held securely, and in Au¬ 
gust of that year an atrocious attack was made on Norridgewock by 208 colonial 
soldiers from Fort Richmond. So carefully was the advance guarded by Har¬ 
mon’s Rangers and a company of Mohawks, that the village was surrounded, and 
the first intimation of the presence of the colonials was conveyed in a shower of 
bullets which swept through the streets. Some of the Indians escaped through 
the thin environing lines, but all who remained in the wigwams— men, women, 
and children — were massacred. 

“ The noise and tumult gave Pere Rale notice of the danger his converts were 
in, and he fearlessly showed himself to the enemy, hoping to draw all their atten¬ 
tion to himself, and to secure the safety of his flock at the peril of his life. He 
was not disappointed. As soon as he appeared, the English set up a great shout, 
which was followed by a shower of shot, when he fell dead near to the cross which 
he had erected in the midst of the village. Seven chiefs, who sheltered his body 
with their own, fell around him. Thus did this kind shepherd give his life for his 
sheep, after a painful mission of 37 years.” (Charlevoix.) When the fragment 
of the tribe re-entered the ruined village, they found Rale’s body, horribly muti¬ 
lated, at the foot of the mission cross. “After his converts had raised up and 
oftentimes kissed the precious remains, so tenderly and so justly beloved by them, 
they buried him in the same place where he had, the evening before, celebrated 
the sacred mysteries, namely, the spot where the altar stood before the church 
was burnt.” (Histoire Generate de Nouvelle France d) Bishop Fenwick, of Bos¬ 
ton, erected a granite obelisk on the site of the church in 1833. After lying deso¬ 
late for half a century, Norridgewock was settled by the whites in 1773. 

Starks (Clifton House) is a farming town 10 M. N. W. of Norridgewock, 
with tri-weekly stages to Farmington, 13 M. W. (see Route 41). On the 
main stage-route (to the Forks) Anson is N, of Starks, and is a consider¬ 
able, though failing village, with 3 small hotels and about 1,700 inhabi¬ 
tants. Embden is a large but thinly settled town across the river from 
Solon (inn), a decadent town near Carritunk Falls, where the Kennebec 
narrows from 480 ft. wide to 40 ft., and falls about 20 ft. The stage- 
route passes through Solon, Bingham, Moscow, and Carritunk, to The 
Forks, a forest-village of about 150 inhabitants, 45 M. N. W. of Skow- 
hegan. 

Moosehead Lake is 25- 30 M. N. E. of The Forks, up the Kennebec. The great 
Canada road (now but little used) runs N. W. from The Forks through the forest 
to Taschereau, a Canadian border-village, 50-60 M. distant. Thence the road 
follows the valleys of the Rivieres du Loup and Cliaudiere, through Liniere, Au- 
bert Callion, Vaudreuil, St. Joseph, St. Marie, St. Etienne, and Lauzon, to Quebec, 
more than 180 M. from The Forks. 

There is a stage-route from Skowhegan to Dead River and Flag-staff Plantations 
to the E. and N. of Mt. Bigelow, about 40 M. N. W. of Skowhegan. 

1 See also Whittier’s poem “ Mogg Megone.” 


BOSTON TO MOOSEHEAD LAKE. Route 43. 295 


43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake. 

{a .) By Skowhegan (Route 42), whence daily stages run (in summer) to 
the Lake. Distance, 50 M. ; fare on the stage, $3.50. This route passes 
through seven sparsely populated farming towns, with the aggregate num¬ 
ber of 3,722 inhabitauts. 

(5.) By Dexter \see Route 46 or 47 to Newport, whence a branch rail¬ 
way runs N. in 15 M. to Dexter). Dexter ( Merchants' Exchange; 
Dexter House) is a prosperous village in a town of nearly 3,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, with woollen and other manufactories on the water-power given by 
the outlet of a large hill-pond. The town was settled in 1801, and has a 
savings-bank, a weekly paper, and 5 churches. The stage leaves Dexter 
in the morning, and passes through the thinly settled farming towns of 
Sangerville, Guilford, Abbott, Monson, and Shirley. The views of Mon- 
son Pond from Doughty’s Hill, of Mt. Katahdin in the N. E., of the Lake 
from the heights above Greenville, and of the Mts. of Abbott and Monson, 
render this a very picturesque route. (Seats on the outside of the stage 
afford the best view.) 

Tickets from Boston to Mt. Kineo and return (good for several weeks) by this 
route, may be bought for $15.00, at 134 Washington St., Boston. Passengers 
leaving the Eastern R. R. station in Boston, at 8 p. m., or the Maine Central sta¬ 
tion in Portland at 12.30 a. m., arrive at Mt. Kineo at 6 o’clock next evening (time 
table of 1S72). 

(c.) By Bangor. By sleeping-car on the night-express to Bangor, 
arriving at 7 a. m. and breakfasting, then leaving for Guilford on the 
Bangor and Piscataquis R. R., at. 8 a. m. 

{d.) By steamer from Boston to Bangor (Route 48), and thence as in 
(c). By this route 48 hrs. are required to get from Boston to the Lake. 
By either of the two last-named routes, the Bangor and Piscataquis R. R. 
is taken to Guilford. This line follows Route 49 to Oldtown, where it 
diverges to the N. W. and crosses the towns of Alton, Lagrange, Orneville, 
and Milo, to S. Sebec. Stages run thence (6 M. ; 50 c.) to Sebec, at the foot 
of Sebec Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 12 M. long. The steamer “ Rip¬ 
pling Wave ” runs daily down to the Lake House, a summer-hotel on a 
plateau near Granite Mt., in Bowerbank (leaving Sebec at 7.15 a. m., and 
the Lake House at 4 p. m. ; fare, 50 c.). There is good fishing from 
birch canoes and skiffs out on the lake, and picturesque mt. scenery on 
the shores. The Ebeme Mts. are N. of Sebec. 

7 M. beyond S. Sebec is the station, Dover and Foxcroft, between two 
villages on the Piscataquis River. Dover (good inn) has nearly 2,000 in¬ 
habitants, and is the shire-town of the forest County of Piscataquis, which, 
with 3,780 square miles of territory, has but 14,397 inhabitants. Fox¬ 
croft (N. of the track) has 1,200 inhabitants, and a daily stage runs thence 
to Stedman’s Landing (5 M.), connecting with the Sebec Lake steamer. 


296 Route 4$. 


MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 


The train passes on 8 M. farther, to Guilford ( Turner House) 61 M. 
from Bangor. The stage-route to Moosehead Lake leads thence for 23 M. 
over the same road as that from Dexter. 

Moosehead Lake. 

Greenville ( Lake House ; Eveletli House) is a small farming village on the S. shore, 
and about 5 M. W. of Wilson Pond, which is famed for its trout. Here may be 
seen many lumbermen,— Americans, Indians, and Canadian and Acadian French¬ 
men,— rude and stalwart foresters. “ Maine has two classes of warriors among 
its sons,— fighters of forest and fighters of seas. Braves must join one or the 
other army. The two are close allies. ” 

Moosehead Lake is 35 M. long, from 4 to 12 M. wide, and contains 220 
square miles. It is 1,023 ft. above the sea, to which its waters pass by 
the Kennebec River. The shores are monotonous and uncultivated, save 
where Mt. Kineo runs out into the lake, though distant mts. on either 
side give variety to the view. Except Greenville, at the S. end, there are 
no towns, plantations, or permanent settlements on these lonely shores. 
The fishing (trout, &c.) in these waters and in the neighboring streams is 
the grand attraction, though the moose-hunting has wellnigh passed 
away. In May, June, and early July the black fly is an'unendurable 
annoyance, and city men should avoid the forest in that season. 

Steamers leave Greenville daily for Mt. Kineo. Passing out of the long, 
deep cove in which the village is situated, the Squaw Mt. is seen on the 
1. and the steamer runs N. between Deer Island on the 1. and Sugar Island 
on the r. E. of the latter is Lilly Cove, strewn with romantic islets and 
surrounded by mts. Beyond Sugar Island the great bay is seen to the S. 
W., through which the Kennebec flows outward toward the sea, while 
Spencer Bay opens to the N. E., with Spencer Mt. (4,000 ft. high) at its 
head. Katahdin may be seen to the N. E. on a clear day. The bold 
bluffs of Kineo are now seen ahead, and the steamer stops near its base 
and close by the hotel. The Kineo House is situated here (on a peninsula 
which runs from the E. shore to within 1 M. of the W. shore), and is a 
well-kept house, much frequented by Bostonians, and famed for its trout. 
The Blue Ridge lies W. of Kineo, and Brassua Lake, about 6 M. distant 
in that direction, is much visited by fishing-parties. 

Mt. Kineo is very near the hotel, and is 6-700 ft. above the lake, with 
a vast, sheer precipice of purple flint running down to the water, and for 
over 1,000 ft. below. The mt. is quickly ascended (with a guide), and 
reveals a fine view of the Lake, with Squaw Mt. on the S., the Blue Ridge on 
the W., the Spencer and Lilly Cove Mts. on the S. E., and Katahdin on the 
N. E. The sandy beaches near the slopes of the mt. afford pleasant rambles. 

At 16 -18 M. N. of Mt. Kineo, over the desolate-shored North Bay, the end of the 
Lake is reached, and a well-travelled portage of 2 M. leads across to the Penobscot 
River. This river may be descended in a birch-eanoe well guided (passing several 
rapids) to Chesuncook Lake, 20-80 M. N. E. Plain forest-fare and rude forest- 
life must be encountered here. Chesuncook is about 20 M. long and 1 - 3 M. wide. 


PORTLAND TO ROCKLAND. Route 44 . 297 


and lies to the S. of the large Lakes, Caucomgomuc and Caucomgomosis, and the 
Allagash chain of lakes, the southernmost and largest of which is Apmogenagu- 
mook. Beyond Chesuncook (S. E.) Ripogenus Lake is traversed, then ensues a 8 
M. portage, and then the river is descended for many leagues to Pemadumcook 
Lake, with Mt. Katahdin boldly prominent on the N. E. and N. This mt. is some¬ 
times ascended with the canoe-guides, from the river, — a long and arduous 
journey. From Pemadumcook the widening river (more properly the W. branch 
of the Penobscot) may be followed to Mattawamkeag or Oldtown. 

Good guides, a supply of provisions, and strong clothing are requisite for this 
tour, which requires 7-10 days, from Greenville to Oldtown. (See a vigorous 
account of this route by Theodore Winthrop, “Life in the Open Air,” Chaps. 
VI.-XV. ; also Thoreau’s “Maine Woods.”) 


44. Portland to Rockland. 

By the Maine Central and Knox and Lincoln Railways, in 96 M. The 
train leaves the Portland and Kennebec station in Portland and passes 
over Route 47 to Brunswick. Stages run thence to Harpswell and Orr’s 
Island. A few miles beyond Brunswick, the train reaches Bath (* Sagada¬ 
hoc House ; Bath Hotel), a decadent old maritime city situated on the 
Kennebec River, 12 M. from the sea. Bath has 7,380 inhabitants, with a 
valuation of $ 6,400,000, 7 banks, and a daily paper. It was formerly 
the fourth city in the republic in the shipbuilding business, and grew in 
wealth and prosperity until the decline of American commerce. This 
branch of industry was founded here in 1762, and was favored by the fa¬ 
cility with which the best ship timber was floated down the Kennebec from 
the northern forests. In 1853 and 1854 the tonnage built here amounted 
to 107,854. The city has a fine harbor, rarely embarrassed with ice, and 
deep enough for the largest ships. The streets are irregular in their 
contour, and the settled district extends for over 3 M. along the W. bank 
of the river, being only about ^ M. wide. The river at this point is over 
| M. in width, and is rapid and deep. There is a neat Government 
building here, also the Sagadahoc County buildings. 

The site of Bath was first visited by Capt. Weymouth in 1605. It was bought 
from Robin Hood, an Indian chief, by Rev. Robert Gutch, of Salem, who lived 
here from 1660 to 1679. The growth of the settlement was very slow until the 
(•lose of the Revolutionary War, when an active lumber and shipping trade sprang 
up, which was but momentarily injured by the Embargo and the War of 1812. 
From causes which are national rather than local, Bath’s leading industry has 
been checked, and the city is going quietly down hill with the other small mari¬ 
time cities of New England. 

Stages run daily to Arrowsic and Georgetown. Steamers run to Phipsburg, 
Georgetown, Arrowsic, Boothbay, Pemaquid, and Waldoboro. 

The long peninsulas and narrow parallel islands which run into the salt water 
below Bath are very interesting in a historical point of view. Arrowsic is an 
island town with about 250 inhabitants, on 20,000 acres of land, much of which is 
salt-marsh. This island was settled and fortified in 1661, and its settlement was 
destroyed by an Indian raid in 1723. In another midnight attack, 50 houses were 
burnt, and 35 persons were killed and captured in the fort, which was stormed in 
the darkness. Months after, a detachment of soldiers landed to bury the dead, 
but were ambushed and rudely handled. Georgetown is an island town below 
Arrowsic, with similar annals of early adventure. Phipsburg is a long peninsula, 
stretching for about 12 M. from Bath to Bald Head Cape, bounded on the W. by 

13 * 




298 Route 44 - 


WOOLWICH. 


Quohog Bay, and on tlie E. by the widenings of the Kennebec. The Huguenot chief, 
De Monts, planted the cross here in 1604, and in 1607 Sir George Popham and 
Raleigh Gilbert (nephew of Sir Walter Raleigh) came here with 2 ships and 100 
men. “They sayled up into the river neere 40 leagues, and found yt to be a very 
gallant river, very deepe,” and then returned to this peninsula, where they landed 
and celebrated the service of the Episcopal Church, assembled around their chap¬ 
lain. This is said to have been the first Christian service in New England. A 
line of cabins and a church were built, and Fort St. George was raised for their 
protection. After a quarrel between the colonists and Indians, the latter got 
possession of the fort, and plundered it; but having scattered around several bar¬ 
rels of powder (being ignorant of its qualities), it caught fire and exploded, de¬ 
stroying the fort and the Indians. The remaining aborigines, interpreting the 
fatal explosion as a Divine punishment, hastened to be reconciled with the colo¬ 
nists, whom they supplied with food all winter. The intense cold of the winter 
of 1607 - 8, the destruction of their stores, the dubious favor of the Indians, and 
the death of Popham and other leaders caused the colony to break up in the 
spring and return to England, having “found nothing but extreme extremity.” 
The peninsula was resettled in 1716 by the Pejepscot proprietors, who erected 
here a stone fort 100 ft. square, made houses and roads, and established a line of 
communication by sea with Boston. A few years later it was destroyed by a sud¬ 
den Indian attack, and the fort was demolished. The peninsula was again settled 
in 1737, and in 1814 was incorporated, and named in honor of Sir William Phips. 
The town has 1,344 inhabitants, largely engaged in fishing and shipbuilding, and 
its shores are rugged and irregular, Seguin Island lies off shore to the S. There 
are one or two small summer boarding-houses on the peninsula. 

The 3d Maine Regiment, in the Secession War, was raised in the Kennebec 
Valley, between Phipsburg and Skowhegan. It was one of the bravest regiments 
in the army, was engaged in nearly all the great Virginian battles, and at Gettys¬ 
burg alone lost 113 men. Howard was its first colonel. 


At Bath the through cars for Rockland are taken across the Kennebec 
River on a large steam ferry-boat, and run on to the rails of the Knox 
and Lincoln Railroad at Woolwich, on the farther shore. This town was 
settled in 1638 on the Indian domain of Nequasset, and was depopulated 
by an attack in 1676. 50 years later it was resettled, and in 1759 was in¬ 

corporated as Woolwich, so named from a resemblance of the Kennebec 
River at this point to the English Thames at Woolwich. 

William Phips was born at Woolwich in 1651, and was a shepherd on its rocky 
hills. Learning how to read and write, and then acquiring the art of ship-car¬ 
pentering, he rose in consideration and influence. In 1684 he sailed from London 
in a war vessel, to attempt the recovery of the gold from a sunken Spanish treas¬ 
ure-ship near the Bahamas. The quest was unsuccessful, but in 1687 lie suc¬ 
ceeded in recovering from the wreck $ 1,500,000 in jewels and bars of gold and 
silver. He was knighted by the king, and received $80,000-of the treasure. He 
commanded the expedition which took Port Royal from the French, and from 1692 
to 1694 he was Gov. of Mass. In 1694 he died suddenly at London, where he had 
gone to render an account of his government. His activity, bravery, and enter¬ 
prise enabled him to rise from the tasks of an unlettered shepherd on the Wool¬ 
wich hills to the governorship of the chief British province in America. 

Beyond Woolwich the train passes the country stations of Nequasset 
and Montsweag, and then stops at Wiscasset (Hilton House), a maritime 
town on the Sheepscot River, 12 M. from the sea. It has 1,978 inhabi¬ 
tants, 2 banks, and a weekly paper (the “ Seaside Oracle ”). The widen¬ 
ings of the river opposite Wiscasset afford a broad and capacious harbor, 
with 12 - 20 fathoms of water, and but rarely troubled with ice. It was 


PEMAQUID. 


Route J^Ii. 299 


once talked of for a U. S. naval station. This town was laid under con¬ 
tribution by the British sloop-of-war “ Rainbow,” during the Revolution. 
Its palmiest days were between 1780 and 1806, when the maritime trade 
was very extensive, and many leagues of back country were dependent on 
it for supplies. This prosperity was ruined by the Embargo and the War 
of 1812, and Wiscasset is now only a pleasant village, fading slowly from 
its picturesque hills. 

Daily stages run from Wiscasset to Boothbay (two inns), 9 M. S., another of the 
ancient peninsular towns. It was visited by Weymouth in 1G05 ; settled in 1630 ; 
destroyed in 1688 ; and resettled in 1730. Its fine harbor was chosen for a naval 
station by the British government about 1770, but the outbreak of the Revolu¬ 
tionary War prevented national works from being constructed. The town has 
3,200 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in the fisheries, the coasting trade, and 
in shipbuilding. The village is very attractive, with islands in front guarding 
the noble harbor, in which, during long stdtms, 4-500 sail of fishing vessels 
sometimes take refuge. Many summer visitors rest at Boothbay, which is reached 
also by steamer from Bath. The steamer touches, en route, at Southport (Rose¬ 
wood Cottage), an insular town inhabited by fishermen. The S. extremity of 
this island is Cape Newagen, whence the Damariscove Islands are seen on the E. 
Westport is another insular town, 11 M. long, to the W. of Boothbay, and inhab¬ 
ited by fishermen. 

Beyond Wiscasset the train passes to the station, Newcastle and Dam- 
ariscotta . A considerable settlement was made at Newcastle early in 
the 17th century, as is evinced by the traces still seen. It was probably 
destroyed by the French, and its memory has faded from history. Many 
years after this colony fell, another was established, which was destroyed 
in King Philip’s War. A third settlement on the same site was destroyed 
in 1688, and the land lay desolate for 30 years. The town now contains 
1,729 inhabitants, mostly engaged in manufacturing. Damariscotta (Elm 
House ; Maine Hotel) was settled in 1640, and was a frontier post of the 
old Pemaquid Patent. It was often assailed by the Indians, and twice or 
thrice was abandoned. It was named for Damarine, Sachem of Sagada¬ 
hoc (called Robin Hood by the English), and now is generally spoken of, 
in the country-side, as “Scottie.” It has 1,334 inhabitants, and ship¬ 
building is the chief industry. The Damariscotta River separates it from 
Newcastle. 

Stages run to Aina, Pittston, and Gardiner ; to Jefferson and Augusta ; to Bris¬ 
tol and Pemaquid. Bristol is a territorially large town, embracing nearly all the 
peninsula between the Damariscotta River and Muscongus Bay. It has about 
3,000 inhabitants, and at the village of Round Pond are extensive oil-works. 

Pemaquid. 

On and near a rocky promontory in the extreme S. of Bristol is the site of the 
ancient colony of Pemaquid, than which no locality in New England has more of 
historic charm. The Maine Historical Society has explored these deserted shores, 
and the site and ruins of Fort Frederick have been secured for a monument to be 
erected in honor of the pioneers. 

Capt. Weymouth visited Pemaquid in 1605, and kidnapped several Indians. 10 
vears later a furious war broke out between the Tarratine Indians and the Bashaba 
or Chief of the Western Maine tribes. The Bashaba and his family and council- 




300 Route 44 - 


WALDOBORO. 


lors were put to death by a daring inroad of the Tarratines, but the tribes had 
become greatly reduced by the war and an ensuing pestilence. The Wawenocks 
(fear-naughts) occupied the peninsulas about Pemaquid, but were so reduced in 
strength as to be unable to prevent colonization. In 1630 it is said that a fort 
was erected here, and in 1631 the Pemaquid Patent was'granted to two merchants 
of Bristol. In 1632 the pirate Dixey Bull entered the harbor, plundered the 
village, and carried away the vessels. Massachusetts sent an armed ship against 
him, but he was taken by a royal cruiser, and executed (probably) at London in 
1635. In 1648 all this region was formed into a “ Ducal State,” and made an ap¬ 
panage of James, Duke of York (afterwards King James II.). No religious service 
but the Anglican was allowed. In 1635, the 16-gun brig “ Angel Gabriel ” was 
wrecked here, and in 1674 Sir Edmund Andros built Fort Charles, brought in 
many Dutch immigrants, and named the place Jamestown. It had then three 
long, paved streets, with several cross-streets, and was called “ the metropolis of 
New England.” The Indians remained tranquil during King Philip’s War, until 
they had suffered grave affronts from the colonists, when they swept down on 
Pemaquid and utterly destroyed it. Many of the people escaped in boats to Mon- 
liegan, an island far out in the sea. In 1678 the place was reoccupied, and in 
1689 it was again destroyed by the Tarratines, the 3 captains of the garrison 
having been killed. The point was reoccupied by 850 Mass, troops, and in 1692 
Sir William Phips erected a stone fort here, mounting 18 guns, and called the 
strongest on the continent. This was named Fort William Henry, and soon 
repulsed an attack by 2 French 36-gun frigates. In 1693 13 Tarratine and Penob¬ 
scot chiefs submitted at the settlement, and the village grew rapidly. In 1696 
Iberville (having defeated an English fleet on the coast) attacked the place with a 
fleet bearing several hundred French regulars, some Mic-Mac Indians, and 2C0 
Tarratines under Baron de Castine. After bombarding Fort William Henry from 
batteries on the opposite point and from the fleet, a breach was made and the 
fort was taken. The settlement was plundered and ruined, and the surviving 
inhabitants were led into captivity. It was soon settled again, and when Mass, 
took possession of Maine its people begged that Pemaquid might “remain the 
metropolitan of these parts, because it ever have been so before Boston was 
settled.” In 1724 the ruined fort was somewhat repaired to defend the people in 
Lovewell’s War, and in 1730 it was rebuilt under the name of Fort Frederick, by 
Col. Dunbar, surveyor of the King’s woods in America. This officer had a fine 
mansion here, and laid out a new city, but was soon relieved on account of his 
arbitrary acts, and was made Gov. of St. Helena. Fort Frederick was attacked in 
1745, and in 1747 it was assaulted by a French force, which was repulsed with 
heavy loss. The fort was destroyed by the people in the Revolutionary War, lest 
it should become a British post. In 1813 a sharp naval battle occurred off Pema¬ 
quid Point, when the American brig “ Enterprise ” was attacked by the British 
brig “ Boxer.” After a conflict of 48 minutes the “Boxer” surrendered, having 
suffered severe losses. In 1814 the place Avas attacked by 275 men in boats from 
the frigate “ Maidstone,” who were repulsed with such severe loss that the 
captain of the frigate was discharged from the British navy. 

Ancient fortifications, streets, cellars, wharves, and cemeteries are found all 
over the Point, and many remarkable antiquities may be shown by the fanners 
near the iioav deserted point. 

“ The restless sea resounds along the shore. 

The light land-breeze flows outward with a sigh, 

And each to each seems chanting evermore 
A mournful memory of the days gone by. 

Here, Avhere they lived, all holy thoughts re\'ive, 

Of patient striving and of faith held fast; 

Here, where they died, their buried records live. 

Silent they speak from out the shadowy past.” 

Pemaquid: a ballad. 

After leaving Damariscotta the line passes through Nobleborougli (3 
stations) to Waldoboro (Medomack House), Avhich Avas settled by 1,500 
Germans in 1753-4. Their descendants still remain in the toAvn, which 
has over 4,000 inhabitants. Station, Warren, a shipbuilding town, which 


I 


ROCKLAND. 


Route 44- 301 


was settled by Scotch-Irish in 1736. Station Thomaston (Knox House ; 
Georges House ), situated on a deep narrow harbor, and containing the 
Maine State Prison. The prison was established in 1824, and up to 1872, 
1,100 convicts had served their time out, 390 had been pardoned, 18 had 
escaped, and in that year 128 convicts remained within its walls. 

In 1720 a fort was built here (near the present railway-station), and garrisoned 
and armed with cannon by Mass. It was furiously attacked by the Tarratine In¬ 
dians in 1722, and, an assault led by French monks having been disastrously re¬ 
pulsed,* a mine was dug. This work was so unscientifically done that it fell in 
|| on the besiegers, who retired in confusion. In midwinter of 1723 it was again 
beleaguered vainly for 30 days, and in 1724 it was attacked by a fleet of 22 vessels 
(captured fishermen). A sharp naval skirmish was fought with colonial relief- 
ships, which were forced to retire, greatly damaged by the Indian artillery. But 
the fort still held out and repulsed every attack, and stood until the Revolution, 
when it was demolished by the British. Gen. Waldo (who died in 1759) obtained 
possession of the Museongus Patent, embracing a tract of 30 M. wide on each 
side of the Penobscot, and settled the peninsulas with Germans and Scotch-Irish. 
This tract came into possession of Gen. Knox through his wife, who was the 
heiress of part of it, and about 1793 he built here the finest mansion in Maine, 
and lived in baronial state, entertaining numerous guests with splendid hospi- 
ij tality. 

Henry Knox was born in Boston in 1750, and became a skilful military en¬ 
gineer and artillerist. He was commander of the artillery of the Continental 
Army, engaged in most of the important battles and sieges of the Revolution, 
and was Secretary of War from 1785 to 1795. He originated the first and only 
order of American chivalry, the Society of the Cincinnati, was strongly aristo¬ 
cratic in his tastes, and demanded the observance of the etiquette of a palace at 
his manor in Thomaston. The Knox mansion stood close to the present railway- 
station (which was one of the offices of the estate), and was demolished in 1872. 

Stages run from Thomaston to the ancient peninsular towns of Cushing and 
Friendship, on Museongus Bay; also to St. George, a historic old town, which 
projects into the sea, and is near the islands which Weymouth named St. George’s 
(in 1604). Weymouth set up a cross (Anglican) on these shores, and wrote, “ I 
doubt not .... it will prove a very flourishing place [Maine] and be re¬ 
plenished with many faire townes and cities, it being a province both fruitful and 
pleasant.” In 1724, 16 soldiers from the Thomaston Fort, led by Capt. Winslow, 
were ambushed and destroyed among St. George’s Islands, and in 1753 a strong 
stone fort was built on this peninsula. 

Beyond Thomaston the train soon reaches Rockland (Thorndike Hotel), 
a city of 7,000 inhabitants, with 1 national and 3 state banks, 2 weekly 
papers, and 8 churches. The city is pleasantly situated on Owl’s Head 
Bay, S. of the Camden Mts., and looks out on Penobscot Bay. Ship¬ 
building is carried on here, but the chief industry is lime-burning, the 
city having 80 kilns, employing 1,000 men, and making 1,200,000 barrels 
yearly. The kilns should be seen by night. 

Stages run to S. Thomaston and the bold cliffs of Owl’s Head ; to St. George ; 

1 to Augusta, and to Camden and Belfast. 

Steamers for Bangor, Portland, Mt. Desert, and Machlas touch at this port. 

Dix Island is a few miles from Rockland, and is a vast mass of granite. 600 
men worked here in 1872, cutting stone for the New York Post Office, the stones 
being carved and numbered, all ready to swing into position. The immense 
monolithic columns of the U. S. Treasury building at Washington were cut here, 
and the vessels load directly from the sides of the ledges. It is thought that this 
granite is unrivalled for beauty, compactness, and uniformity. 

Nearly half of the valiant Penobscot regiment (4th Maine) was raised at Rock¬ 
land in 1861. It received a stand of colors from the ladies of New York, and lost 





302 Route 45. PORTLAND TO MOUNT DESERT. 


Ill men at the Bull Run battles, 100 at the Fredericksburg battles, 138 at Gettys¬ 
burg, and 184 on the first day of the Wilderness campaign. 316 of its members 
died in the service. Its colonel, H. G. Berry, became a major-general, and was • 
killed at the head of his division (2d, of the 3d Corps) at the battle of Chancel-* 
lorsville. 

45. Portland to Mount Desert. 

In stormy weather it is best to go from Portland to Rockland by rail (Route 44), 
and there take the steamer. Mt. Desert is 110 M. N. E. of Portland, and the fare 
to Bar Harbor is $5.00. 

Passengers leaving Boston by Route 37 (Eastern R. R.) at 6 p. m. Tuesday or 
Friday, will reach Portland in time for the steamer, which leaves at 10 p. m., or 
on the arrival of the train. The pier is near the station. Fares from Boston to 
Bar Harbor, or Machiasport, $6.00 ; to Castine, $4.00. See also Route 48. 

The teamer “ Lewiston ” leaves Portland at 10 P. M. and passes over 
ordinarily cpiiet waters, outside the famous peninsular towns of Sagada¬ 
hoc and Lincoln Counties, to Rockland, which is reached at 5 A. M. The 
tourist should arise as early as possible, to enjoy the scenery of Penob¬ 
scot Bay. Leaving Rockland, with Owl’s Head on the r. and the pictur¬ 
esque Camden Hills on the 1., the steamer crosses the broad Penobscot 
Bay, between the insular towns of Islesborough and Vinalhaven, and at 
about 7 a. M. reaches Castine (two inns). This is a pretty village on a 
narrow peninsula projecting into the bay, and its history is of great 
interest. 

Castine. 

This peninsula was called Pentagoet, and was taken by the Plymouth Com¬ 
pany for a trading-post. There was a Puritan fort here in 1626, and at a later 
day the place was taken by the fleet of D’Aulney, who had been sent out by Car¬ 
dinal Richelieu and Razilla, to recover Acadia. D’Aulney built strong fortifica¬ 
tions here, and withstood a long bombardment from two Mass, ships under Capt. 
Girling. The next few years are made romantic by the wars of the rival feudal lords, 
D’Aulney and La Tour, the one Catholic and the other Huguenot, in which Pen¬ 
tagoet and St. John suffered repeated sieges and attacks. In 1674 a Dutch fleet 
took Pentagoet after suffering some losses. In 1667 Vincent, Baron de St. Cas- 
tin, formerly colonel of the Royal Carignan Regiment, and the lord of Oleron, in 
the French Pyrenees, came to Pentagoet, married the daughter of Madockawando, 
the Sachem of the Tarratines, and became the apostle of Catholicism among the 
tribes, who revered him more than his creed. In 1688 Sir Edmund Andros, 
with the “ Rose ” frigate, plundered the settlement, and St. Castin was ever after 
a bold enemy of Mass. In 1696 he led his Indians in Iberville’s fleet against 
Pemaquid, which he destroyed. After living here for 30 years, he fought in the 
Nova Scotia campaigns of 1706-7, and then returned to France. His son by the 
Tarratine princess became chief of the Penobscot tribes, and was a peaceful, 
brave, and magnanimous gentleman, who ruled his wild subjects successfully 
until 1721, when he was led prisoner to Boston. He usually wore the Indian 
costume, but sometimes appeared in a superb French uniform. In 1722 he went 
to France, and took possession of his father’s property, honors, and seigniorial • 
rights, and lived until his death on his Pyrenean estates. Lineal descendants 
of the St. Castins have governed the Tarratines until the present (at least until 
I860). The New-Englanders settled at Castine in 1760, and in 1779 it was fortified 
by 650 British soldiers. Mass, sent a powerful force against this point, consist¬ 
ing of 2,000 soldiers, in 24 transports, convoyed by 19 war-vessels, carrying 344 
cannon. The Americans were twice repulsed from the peninsula, but after losing 
100 men in a third attempt they landed and opened batteries. After several days 
of cannonading, 7 British frigates (204 guns) entered the bay, and bore down on 
the crescent line of American ships. After one broadside the American line was 







MOUNT DESERT. 


Route 45. 303 


broken, and a disgraceful debandade ensued. After a hot pursuit among the 
islands and up the river, every vessel of the great fleet was taken or destroyed, 
without resistance. The army straggled in broken squads to the Kennebec set¬ 
tlements, and Commodore Saltonstall was cashiered for the most shameful defeat 
which America ever suffered on the sea. Castine was held by the British from 
1779 to 1783, and was again taken and held by 4,000 of their troops in the War of 
1 1812. The history of Castine has more romantic interest than that of any New 
“ England town, and its soil abounds with the relics of 5 national occupations, 
while 5 naval battles have been fought in its harbor. 

Castine is a wealthy town, with neat wide streets and fine residences. 
It is the seat of the Eastern Normal School, and has 3 churches. The 
chief business of the people is connected with the sea, in shipbuilding, 
coasting, or the deep-sea fisheries. Faint traces of St. Castin’s fort are 
seen, and on the hill behind the village the English Fort George is well 
preserved. The remains of various American batteries and field-works 
are found on the peninsula, while the harbor is commanded by a neat 
little fort recently erected by the United States. Castine is a favorite 
summer-resort, by reason of its seclusion, its heroic memories, its fine 
boating and fishing facilities, and the salubrity of its sea-breezes. 

From Castine the steamer turns S., and rounding Cape Rosier, passes 
through a narrow sound, and stops at Deer Isle, an insular town of 3,400 
inhabitants, devoted to the deep-sea fisheries. The sound is then crossed 
to Sedgwick, a rugged and thinly inhabited town, beyond which the 
course is S. E. around Naskeag Point, and across the island-strewn Bay, 
with Mt. Desert looming in front, and the lofty Blue Hill (950 ft. high) 
on the N. Passing around the lower point of Tremont, S. W. Harbor is 
entered, and the steamer stops at a pier near a great lobster-canning fac¬ 
tory. Leaving this point, the island shores are rounded, with their re¬ 
markable rock-bound cliffs and overhanging mountains, and Bar Harbor 
is soon reached (at about noon). 

Mount Desert. 

Hotels. At S. W. Harbor. Island House ; Ocean ; Freeman. At Somesville, 
Somes’ Tavern. At Bar Harbor, Agamont House ; Bay View ; Hamor ; Rodick ; 
Rockaway ; Eden ; Atlantic ; St. Sauveur ; Ocean ; Newport; Deering ; Kebo ; 
Wayside ; Green Mt. House. These hotels are more properly large boarding¬ 
houses, at which board may be obtained for about $10.00 a week. There is al¬ 
ways a sufficiency of food, but owing to the remoteness from market, there is not 
so much variety as might be desired. 

I Mount Desert is an island covering 100 square miles, and is distin¬ 
guished for its wild and romantic scenery of mountain, lake, and shore, 
and for its curious and poetic history. Politically, it is divided into 3 
towns, with an aggregate of about 4,000 inhabitants, on 60,000 acres of 
land. It is said that there is no point (except Rio Janeiro) on the Atlan¬ 
tic coast of the Americas, where such magnificent scenery is found, — the 
sublimity of the mountains challenging the eternal grandeur of the sea. 
There are 13 distinct mountain-peaks here, with numerous lakes, while a 
deep, narrow arm of the sea runs to the N. nearly through the island. 







304 Route 45. 


MOUNT DESERT. 


The sea-shore by Bar Harbor. The view from the village is very pretty, 
extending across the Porcupine Islands in Frenchman’s Bay to the rolling 
hills of Gouldsborough. There are beaches near the village, and on a 
high, rocky islet near by is the summer residence of Gen. Fremont. The 
beach rambles may be done by the water-side at low tide, but the chief 
points of interest are more easily and safely reached by the roads which 
follow the shore. Cromwell’s Cove is nearly 1| M. S. of the village, and 
has bold cliff-shores, on one of which is seen the rock-figure called the 
Assyrian. The Indian’s Foot (a foot-print in the rock) and the Pulpit 
are in this vicinity. 4 M. S. of Bar Harbor (by a road leading under New¬ 
port Mt. on the r., and with the Bay and the round-backed and bristling 
Porcupine Islands on the 1.) is Schooner Head, a high, wave-washed 
cliff, with a white formation on its seaward side, which resembles a 
schooner under sail. It is said to have been cannonaded by a British 
frigate in 1812. The Spouting Horn is a passage worn through the cliff, 
through which the billows sweep in stormy weather, and form an inter¬ 
mittent fountain above the cliff. The Mermaid’s Cave is S. of the Head, 
and 1| M. beyond is * Great Head (gained by a field-path to the 1.), “ the 
highest headland between Cape Cod and New Brunswick,” with wonder¬ 
ful cliffs and chasms, and a broad sea-view. Newport Beach stretches 
beyond Great Head to Thunder Cave (entered only by boat), which is in 
the lofty Otter Creek Cliffs. 

6 - 7 M. N. W. of Bar Harbor are the Ovens, a range of caves in the 
porphyritic cliffs on Salisbury Cove, where the sea has produced some 
fine effects of beach and worn rocks and bright and dripping ledges. The 
Via Mala is a long passage in the neighboring cliffs. At Hull’s Cove 
( Hull's Cove House, $ 7 - 10.00 a week), 2 M. N. of Bar Harbor, is a neat 
crescent beach, near which the Gregoires dwelt. Madame Marie Therese 
de Gregoire was the granddaughter of the Gascon noble, Condillac, to 
whom the King of France granted Mt. Desert in 1688. In 1785 she 
claimed and received the island, and lived here with M. Gregoire until her 
death (about 1810). From Point Levi, N. of the Cove, a fine view is 
given of Frenchman’s Bay, which is 10 -12 M. long and about 8 M. wide, 
with Newport and Schoodic Mts. on r. and 1., at its entrance, — “the 
Pillars of Hercules at Mt. Desert.” 

* Jordan’s Pond is 9 M. S. W. of Bar Harbor, by a road passing 
through Echo Notch. About 8 M. beyond the village a side road to the 
r. is taken, which leads to the lake, situated between the noble cliffs of 
Sargent’s Mt. on the W. and Mt. Pemetic on the E., with the Bubble 
Mts. on the N. The banks of this lake furnish the most beautiful pros¬ 
pects on the island, with rare combinations of the charms of mountain- 
waters and mountain-cliffs. The lake is 2 M. long, and ^ M. wide, and 
affords good trout-fishing. 


GREEN MT. 


Route 45. 305 


Eagle Lake (so named by F. E. Church, the artist) is 2| M. W. of Bar 
Harbor, and is reached by a path leaving the road near Green Mt. It is 
2 M. long, with Green Mt. on the E., Sargent and tire Bubble Mts. on the 
S. and S. W., and the bold peak of Pemetic on the S. There are pretty 
sand-beaches on the shores, and the ascent of Mt. Pemetic maybe made 
from the S. end. There are many trout in these calm and transparent 
waters. 

* Green Mt. is near Bar Harbor, from which a road leads to the summit 
in 4 M. There is a small hotel on the summit, where accommodations for 
the night maybe obtained. “The view from Green Mt. is delightful. 
No other peak of the same height can be found on the Atlantic coast of 
the U. S., from Lubec to the Rio Grande, nor from any other point on 
the coast can so fine a view be obtained. The boundless ocean on the one 
side contrasting with high mts. on the other, and along the shore numer¬ 
ous islands, appearing like gems set in liquid pearl, form the most promi¬ 
nent features in the scene. White sails dotted over the water glide slowly 
along. We know not what view in nature can be finer than this, where 
the two grandest objects in nature, high mts. and a limitless ocean, 
occupy the horizon. The name of Eden is truly appropriate to this beau¬ 
tiful place.” 20 M. out on the ocean is seen Mt. Desert Rock, with its 
lighthouse bearing a fixed white light. In the W. are the numerous mts. 
of the island, with bright lakes interspersed, while the Camden Mts. are 
in the distance. It is said that Katahdin is sometimes visible in the re¬ 
mote N. (100 M. away). Frenchman’s Bay, with its many islands, and 
the Gouldsborough Mts. beyond, is outspread on the E. It is claimed 
that Mt. Washington has been seen from this point, 140 M. W. Whittier 
thus describes this view (in “ Mogg Megone ”). 


“ The hermit priest, who lingers now 
On the Bald Mountain’s shrubless brow, 
The gray and thunder-smitten pile 
Which marks afar the Desertlsle, 

While gazing on the scenes below, 

May half forget the dreams of home. 

Far eastward o'er the lovely bay, 
Penobscot’s clustered wigwams lay ; 

Beneath the westward turning eye 
A thousand wooded islands lie,— 

Gems of the waters 1 — with each hue 
Of brightness set in ocean’s blue. 

There sleep Placentia's group, — and there 
Pere Breteaux marks the hour of prayer, 


And there, beneath the sea-worn cliff, 

On which the Father’s hut is seen. 

The Indian stays his rocking skiff. 

And peers the hemlock-boughs between, 
Half trembling, as he seeks to look 
Upon the Jesuit’s Cross and Book. 

There, gloomily against the sky 
The Dark Isles rear their summits high ; 
And Desert Rock, abrupt and bare. 

Lifts its gray turrets in the air, 

Seen from afar, like some stronghold 
Built by the ocean-kings of old ; 

And, faint as smoke-wreath whit§ and thin 
Swells in the north vast Katahdin ; 

And wandering from its marshy feet 
The broad Penobscot comes to meet 
And mingle with his own bright bay.” 


Newport Mt. is near the water, and. commands a noble view of “the 
very many shadowy mountains and the resounding sea. ” The ascent is 
made from the Schooner Head road. Most of the other mts. have been 
ascended and furnish fine views, while the summit of Kebo (g hr. from 
Bar Harbor) affords a charming prospect at sunset. 


T 


306 Rmte 45- 


SOMES’ SOUND. 


S. W. Harbor and Somes’ Sound. 

Besides the hotels at the Harbor there are large* lobster-packing works 
near the steamboat wharf. 3 M. S. W. is the celebrated Sea Wall , a 
ridge of large stones thrown up by the sea, 1 M. long, 15 ft. high, and of 
great width. 5 M. W. is Seal Cove, a small harbor near a lake which is 
4 M. long and very narrow, under the spurs of Western Mt. Long Lake 
is 2% M. N. W. from S. W. Harbor, and extends for several miles between 
Beach and Western Mts. Denning's Lake lies about 3 M, from the 
Harbor, and is 4 M. long, with Dog Mt. on one shore and the imposing 
Storm Cliff on Beech Mt. on the other. These 3 large lakes are said to be 
well stocked with fish, and by the near approach of the mts. they afford 
fine scenic effects. 

Beech Mt. is often ascended from S. W. Harbor (a mountain road runs 
nearly to the summit). The view embraces Denning’s Lake, Somes’ 
Sound, the eastern group of mts., and Frenchman’s Bay, on the E., with 
Long Lake, Western Mt., Blue Hill, Penobscot Bay, and the Camden 
Hills, on the W. The ocean-view on the S. is of limitless extent. The 
bleak summit of Dog Mt. and the easily ascended Flying Mt. command 
extensive prospects over Somes’ Sound on the E. Sargent’s Mt. and Mt. 
Mansell are sometimes ascended from this point. 

Somes’ Sound is an arm of the sea which extends up between the mt. 
ranges, for 7 M., with a width at its entrance of 2 M. The scenery here 
has been likened to the Delaware Water Gap, to the Hudson River at the 
Highlands, and to Lake George. This deep fiord is a favorite sailing 
ground, although caution is necessary on account of the sudden gusts 
which sweep down from the mts. “ Somes’ Sound enables us to sail 
through the heart of the best scenery on the Island.” The Sound is well 
seen from Clark’s Point, at S. W. Harbor, and a road leads near its shores 
to Somesville, at the N. end. After passing the gateway between Dog 
Mt. on the 1. and Mt. Mansell on the r., a broader expanse is entered, 
with Beech Mt. on the 1., and Green Mt. and the eastern group on the r. 
Fernald's Point is on the W. shore, and is a pleasant spot, with grassy 
lawns and a cold, clear spring. This was the seat of the Jesuit settlement 
of St. Sauveur, and Father Biard’s. Spring is still shown. There are 
picturesque cliffs on the mts. in the vicinity, and Flying Mt. rises on the 
W. Somesville ( Somes' Tavern) is a small village prettily situated at 
the head of the Sound. The central lakes and mts. are easily visited 
from this point, and the boating and fishing on the Sound are much prized. 
Somesville is 6 M. from S. W. Harbor, 8 M. from Bar Harbor, and 4 M. 
from Fernald’s Point. 

In 1603 Henri IV. of France granted to the Sieur de Monts all the American 
shores between the present sites of Philadelphia and Quebec, under the name of 
Acadia. While De Monts and Champlain were exploring their vast domain, they 


PORTLAND TO LEWISTON AND BANGOR. Route 1,6. 307 


saw the peaks of this island, which was called Monts Deserts by Champlain. The 
priests Biard and Masse assumed too much authority at the Port Royal colony, 
and were sternly rebuked by its chief, Potrineourt, who said, “It is my part to 
rule you on earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven.” They threatened to 
lay the colony under interdict, and Potrincourt’s son so resented this that tlley 
left Port Royal on a ship sent from France by Madame de Guercheville, with 
other Jesuits on board. The mission band sailed to the S. “We then dis¬ 
covered that we were near the shore of Mt. Desert, an island which the savages 

call Pemetic.We returned thanks to God, elevating the Cross, and singing 

praises with the holy Sacrifice of the Mass. We named the place and harbor St. 
Sauveur.” (Father Biard.) Historians differ as to the duration of the settle¬ 
ment, but it was finally broken up by Samuel Argali, Governor of Virginia, who 
surprised the place in a time of profound peace. His 14-gun ship entered the 
Sound “as fleet as an arrow,” and took the French vessel after some cannonad¬ 
ing, Father Du Thet having been shot down at a gun. The English now plun¬ 
dered the village, broke down the Jesuits’ crosses, and carried such of the 
colonists as they could find, captives to Virginia. 1 Although granted by Louis 
XIV. to Condillac in 1688, the island was not resettled until the arrival of Somes 
in 1761. In 1762 Mt. Desert was granted to Gov. Bernard, of Mass., from whom 
it was confiscated during the Revolution because he was a royalist. In 1785, £ 
of the island was granted by Mass, to Sir John Bernard (the Governor’s son), and 
soon after the greater part of it was given to the Gregoires, heirs of Condillac. 

Mt. Desert to Machiasport. 

After leaving Bar Harbor the steamer crosses Frenchman’s Bay and 
rounds the bold Schoodic Point. The deep fiords of Gouldsborough and 
Steuben are seen on the N., with the peninsulas which here run out from 
the mainland, and Little Menan Island is passed, with its lighthouse, 
109 ft. high. The maritime village of Millbridge (Atlantic House) is 
reached about 3 hrs. after leaving Mt. Desert. The steamer then crosses 
Narraguagus Bay to Jonesport (Bay View House), a peninsular town 
devoted to fishing and the coasting trade. Englishman’s Bay and Machias 
Bay are now crossed, and Machiasport (Deering House) is reached (by 5 
o’clock, P. M. ). This is a shipbuilding village, with a railroad 8 M. long 
running into the lumber district of Whitneyville. 

Machias {Eastern Hotel; Clare's Hotel) is a manufacturing town of 
2,530 inhabitants, on the Machias River, N. of the port. It was fought 
for by the English and French in the 17th century, and finally settled in 
1763. The British war-vessel, the “ Margaretta,” was captured here in 
1775, and Sir Robert Collier’s fleet was repulsed in 1777 by the militia and 
the Passamaquoddy Indians. 


46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Trains leave the Maine Central station on arrival of the Eastern Railroad trains 
from Boston, some of the cars from Boston passing over on to the rails of the 
Bangor line. One train daily runs to Bangor, and three trains to Lewiston. 


1 L’Escarhot, De Monts’Huguenot chaplain, is the only historian who justifies Argali’s 
attack. This gentleman was a leading member of L'Ordre. de Bon Temps , devoted to hunt¬ 
ing fishing, and feasting. All visitors to Mt. Desert should join this order (in spirit), and a 
series of scrambles over the mts. will render feasting possible, even with the frugal fare of 
the island hotels. 



308 Route 46. 


LEWISTON. 


The train runs through the farming towns of eastern Cumberland 
County for 1^ hours, passing the stations, Cumberland , Walnut Hill, 
Gray, and New Gloucester . At Danville Junction the Grand Trunk 
Railway is crossed. 

Station, Auburn (Elm House; Maine Hotel), a prosperous little city 
just across the river from Lewiston. Auburn became a city in 1869, and 
has a population of 6,166, with many large shoe-factories and other 
works. The Androscoggin County buildings are located here. 

Station, Lewiston (* De Witt House, fronting on the Park, $3.00 a 
day; Lewiston House), a manufacturing city of recent growth, having 
13,602 inhabitants, with 3 banks and a daily paper. The new * City 
Hall (finished in 1872) is one of the finest municipal buildings in New 
England, and has a lofty and graceful tower surmounted by a spire. It 
fronts on the Park, near the De Witt House. A large water-power is 
derived from the falls on the Androscoggin River, and is utilized mainly 
by cotton and woollen mills. Over $ 6,000,000 are invested in these 
works, which turned out $ 33,750,000 worth of goods between 1861 and 
1867. Nearly 4,000 hands are employed in these mills, which run 208,000 
spindles, and turn out yearly 275,000,000 yards of cotton cloths, 600,000 
yards of woollen goods, and 2 - 3,000,000 bags. Many French Canadians 
are employed here, and the number of young people in the city is quite 
notable. The bridge leading to Auburn commands a fine view of the 
Lewiston Falls, where the river breaks over a ledge of blackened gneiss 
and mica schist rocks. The natural fall is over 40 ft., and has been in¬ 
creased to 50 ft. by a strong granite dam which is braced against the 
rocky islets above the ledge. The water led off by the factory canals 
seems scarcely to be missed in the broad masses which thunder over the 
ledges. 

A terrible legend is attached to these falls, to the effect that early in the last 
century a white hermit lived on one of the islands above. The Indians feared 
and shunned him, and plotted his destruction. The hermit learned their plans, 
and set a light, on the evening appointed for the attack, at a point below the falls. 
50 Indians (so many from their great fear of him') dropped down in their canoes 
by night, intending to land by the camp-fire on his island. But seeing the light 
below the falls (his own fire having been put out), they steered confidently toward 
it, and when it was too late, found their canoes in the wild current over the falls. 
The legend says that not one of them escaped with life from that fearful plunge. 

Bates College is back of Lewiston, and has three commodious new 
buildings. It was organized in 1864, is under the care of the Free-Will 
Baptist Church, and has a Theological School attached. There are 12 
instructors and 103 students, with about 7,000 volumes in the library. 

After leaving Lewiston the train passes through the farming towns of 
Greene, Leeds (where the Androscoggin Division crosses the present route), 
Monmouth , and Winthrop (Winthrop House). This is a pleasant village, 
near the Cobossee Contee Pond, which is 9 M. long and 1 M, wide, and 


BRUNSWICK. 


Route 47. 30 9 


is dotted with picturesque islands. W. of the village is Mt. Pisgah, from 
which the White Mts. are seen. Close to Winthrop, on either side, are 
the North and South Ponds, while the blue hills of Dixmont may be seen 
in the N. E. 

Station, Readfield (Craig House), the seat of the Maine Wesleyan 
Seminary and Female College, which was incorporated in 1823, and has 
5-600 students (both sexes). Stages run to Augusta, Farmington, 
Fayette, and Chesterville. Station, Belgrade (Railroad House), in a town 
whose surface is largely composed of lakes. Besides the long Snow’s 
Pond, which lies near the track (on the r.), there are several others, one 
of which is between Belgrade, Rome, and Vienna, and covers 25 square 
miles. This lake is quite picturesque, with irregular and broken shores, 
and several islands. Stations, N. Belgrade, W. Waterville, and Water- 
ville, where the Augusta Division of the M. C. Railway unites with the 
present route (Lewiston Division). 

Waterville to Bangor, see Route 47. 


47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Portland to Bangor, 138 M. Two through trains daily, and 4 trains daily to 
Augusta (63 M.). This is the favorite route from Portland to the East, passing 
through the valley of the Kennebec, and by Brunswick, Gardiner, Hallowed, and 
Augusta. The trains on the Eastern R. R. (Route 37) from Boston make close 
connections at Portland with this line, and some of the cars pass over on to its 
rails. Time is given at the Portland station for dinner. 

After leaving Portland, the train passes over the suburban plains, and 
stops at Woodford's and Westbrook. The latter is a populous town, 
with 6,630 inhabitants (in 3 villages), and has large paper manufactories 
and works for canning corn, lobsters, &c. Crossing now the farming 
town of Cumberland, the line intersects the Grand Trunk Railway at 
Yarmouth (restaurant at the station), and then passes on to Freeport , a 
village at the head of Casco Bay, devoted to shipbuilding. The rural 
station of Oak Hill is next passed, and then the train enters Brunswick 
(Bowdoin House ; Tontine Hotel; restaurant in the station). 

Pejepscot was settled in 1628, under a patent from Plymouth, and was soon 
assigned to Mass., under whose protection a flourishing colony settled here. It 
was destroyed by the Indians in 1676, and afterwards the territory was bought of 
certain local chiefs. The conflicting claims between the Plymouth patent and 
this later purchase gave rise to the most long and vexatious lawsuit in the annals 
of Maine. The proprietors built Fort George at Pejepscot, and in consideration 
of £ 400 from the province and exemption from taxes for 4 years, they maintained 
at the colony a clergyman, a schoolmaster, and a sergeant with 15 soldiers. The 
fort was on the W. side of the Androscoggin River, at the Lower Falls, and was 
called the key of Western Maine, since it guarded the favorite pass of the Ana- 
sagunticook Indians. It was erected in 1715, after the town had been destroyed 
a second time (in 1690). In 1722 Fort George was flanked, and the town was once 
more ruined by the revengeful Indians. The Anasagunticooks migrated to St. 
Francis later in the century, and the district was soon reoccupied by the English, 
and in 1737 received the name of Brunswick. 




310 Route 1/7. 


BOWDOIN COLLEGE. 


Brunswick is a prosperous town at the falls and the head of tide-water 
on the Androscoggin River, and is built on two broad, parallel streets. It 
has 4,727 inhabitants, with 4 banks, several churches, a weekly paper, 
and numerous lumber-mills. The river here falls 41 ft. in 3 pitches, af¬ 
fording a large water-power, part of which is used by the Cabot cotton- 
mills. 

Bowdoin College is located on an elevated plain near the railway-sta¬ 
tion. This institution was incorporated in 1794, and opened in 1802, with 
an endowment from the State of 5 townships and $ 19,000 a year for 5 
years. It has at present 29 instructors and 164 students, exclusive of 70 
students in the medical department, with a library of about 34,000 vol¬ 
umes. There are good collections of shells, minerals, and other objects. 
The conspicuous building with two spires, which stands near the centre 
of the line, contains the handsomely frescoed chapel, the museum of the 
Maine Historical Society, and the gallery of paintings. Nearer the sta¬ 
tion is a large and attractive Memorial Hall built of stone, and the Medi¬ 
cal School is across the road, and near the Congregational Church. The 
pine-groves in the rear of the college are widely known for their sombre 
beauty, and afford favorite walks for the students. 

The Bowdoin Gallery of Paintings. Pierre Baudouin was a Huguenot gentle¬ 
man from La Rochelle, who landed at Portland in 1687. His grandson, James 
Bowdoin, was a friend of Franklin, an ardent patriot, and Gov. of Mass., 1785-6. 
James Bowdoin the son of the last-named, was a scholar and diplomatist, and at 
his death he'left to this college 6,000 acres of land, $ 6,000 in money, and his ex¬ 
tensive library, philosophical apparatus, and picture-gallery. Some of the paint¬ 
ings have been restored with questionable effect. 

2, Venus equipping Cupid, after Titian; 3, Continence of Seipio, N. Poussin 
(perhaps only a line copy); 5, 6, Studio scenes ; 10, Sacking a town, Flemish 
School; 11, Italian scene, Vambrome; 12, Surgeon and patient, attributed to 
Brouwer; 13, Sleeping Cupid, Pupil of Guido Beni; 15, Italian landscape, N. 
Berghem; 14, 16, Landscapes ; 17, Infant John the Baptist, Stella; 18, Dutch 
Dairy Women, Flemish School; *19, Interior of a church, Flemish School; 21, 
Poultry, Hondelcocter; 22, Seven Ages of Man, Hogarth ; 23, Old Tower, Hogarth; 
24, Ruins, Hogarth; 25, The Women at the Sepulchre, Simon Vouet (painted on 
copper) ; 28, View on the Campagna ; 30, James Madison, Gilbert C. Stuart; 32, 
Artillery, Wouvermans; ** The Governor of Gibraltar, Van Dyke (one, of his best 
portraits ; the college has refused $30,000 for it); 35, The Head of John the Bap¬ 
tist in a charger, after Guido Beni ; 36, The Saviour, copied from a picture in the 
Boman Catacombs; 37, Mirabeau ; 38, Adoration of the Magi, afterBubcns; 39, 
Descent from the Cross ; 40, John in the Wilderness ; 44, * Holy Family, either 
by Baphael, or a fine copy; 45, Translation of Elijah; 46, Simon and the child 
Jesus in the Temple, possibly by Bubens; 5'0, A Scene in the Inquisition, Flemish 
School; 51, Venus and Adonis, after Titian; 53, Cleopatra; 56, * The Angel deliv¬ 
ering Peter from prison ; 57, Diana and Endymion ; 58, Venus receiving gifts from 
Ceres, attributed to Bubens; 59, Fox and Pheasant; 60, Combat of Hyena and 
Dogs; 62, Adoration of the Magi, Domenico Franco; 63, Esther and Ahasuerus, 
Franco; 64, Marine view, Flemish; 65, Discovery of Achilles, Teniers; 66, Land¬ 
scape, Dutch; 67, Turkish sea-fight, Mauglab; 68, Morning on the coast, Laroix; 
70, Cattle, after Paul Potter; 70-89, Portraits of the Bowdoins, who claimed 
descent from Baudoin, the Count of Flanders and Crusader ; 92, Storm at sea ; 93, 
Landscape ; 97, President Harrison ; 98, 99, Italian scenes ; 100, View of Messina ; 
102, Henry Clay; 104, The Duke of Cumberland, victor at Culloden ; 105, Pilgrim ; 
106, The Walk to Emmaus ; 107, Peter repentant; 110, 111, Venetian views ; 112, 
Christ bearing the Cross ; 116, 117, French scenes ; 119, Italian landscape ; 120, A 


AUGUSTA. Route 47. 311 

View on the Rhine ; 122, 123, Landscapes ; 126, Bishop Mcllvaine ; 127,128, Affec¬ 
tion and Love ; 131, President Pierce ; 133, Portrait, Copley. 

Franklin Pierce, 14th President of the United States, was in the Bowdoin class 
of 1824, and in that of 1825 Henry W. Longfellow and Nathaniel Hawthorne 
were classmates. In the adjacent village, J. S. C. Abbott, the historian, and 
G. P. Putnam, the veteran publisher, were bom. The Presidency of the College 
is now held by J. L. Chamberlain, a successful general during the Secession 
War, and Gov. of Maine, 1867- 71. 

Railroads run from Brunswick to Lewiston, Farmington, and Bath. 

Beyond Brunswick the main line turns N., crosses the Androscoggin, 
and follows the r. bank of the Kennebec River (seats on the r. preferable) 
through the farming towns of Topsham and Bowdoinham, which have lost 
1,100 inhabitants since 1850. Stations, Richmond, a busy shipbuilding 
village near the site of Fort Richmond (erected in 1719), S. Gardiner, and 
Gardiner (Johnson House; Evans House). This is a city of 3,403 in¬ 
habitants, with 4 banks, 2 weekly papers, 7 churches, and several small 
factories. The chief industries of Gardiner are in sawing lumber in sum¬ 
mer and ice in winter, and immense ice-houses maybe seen on the banks 
of the Kennebec. The Common contains 5 acres, and is situated on 
Church Hill (125 ft. above the river), which commands a pleasant view. 
The slopes of this hill are lined with residences, while the stores are on 
the riverward plain, and the factories are along the water-power given by 
the Cobbosee Contee River. This place was settled in 1760, and was 
named in honor of the family which owned its territory. 

Station, Hallowell ( Hallowell House, near the station), a quiet little 
city on the banks of the Kennebec, with 3,008 inhabitants, 4 banks, a 
weekly paper, and 6 churches. It has a few small factories, but is chiefly 
noted for the extensive quarries of white and light gray granite, back of 
the city, in which 250 men are employed. 900,000 yards of floor oil-cloth, 
and 2,500,000 yards of cotton cloths are made yearly here. Hallowell 
was first permanently settled about 1754, and was named in honor of its 
chief proprietor. 

Augusta ( Cony House, near the station; Mansion House; Augusta 
Hotel; Central House), the capital of the State of Maine, is 2 M. N. of 
Hallowell, and at the head of sloop navigation. The city is built on both 
sides of the Kennebec, and contains 7,815 inhabitants, with 5 banks, a 
daily and 5 weekly papers, 9 churches, and 3 Masonic lodges. The situ¬ 
ation of Augusta is beautiful, being on and around the high hills which 
border the river. About J M. above the town is the great Kennebec 
Dam, 584 ft. long, and 15 ft. above high-water mark. Besides improving 
the navigation of the river above, this dam forms an immense water¬ 
power, estimated at 3,700 net horse-power. It was built in 1836-7, at 
an expense of $ 300,000, and has been purchased by A. & W. Sprague, 
the R. I. manufacturers, who have erected large works in the vicinity, 
and have still others in prospect. The commercial part of -Augusta lies 



312 Route 47. 


AUGUSTA. 


along the r. bank of the river, on Water St., while the heights above are 
occupied by mansions and public buildings. The handsome Congrega¬ 
tional Church, of granite, is on the verge of the ridge, and not far from 
the High School building. Farther S., on State St. (which runs along 
the heights), are the fine granite buildings of Kennebec County, and be¬ 
yond these is the * State House. This elegant structure is built of white 
granite, mostly derived from ledges of the same material on which it is 
founded. It is situated on a high hill, which commands a beautiful view, 
and is surrounded by well-ornamented grounds. It was built in 1828 - 81, 
with a solidity which is rarely encountered in American public works, 
and its principal external features consist of a rustic basement, support¬ 
ing a colonnade of 10 monolithic columns of the Doric order, while above 
all is a graceful dome. The Rotunda is first entered, — a neat hall sup¬ 
ported by 8 columns, and draped with 80 storm-worn and battle-torn 
flags which were borne by the Maine regiments in the War for the Union. 
It is said that not a flag was lost by the Maine troops in the war. The 32 
pennons of the cavalry and artillery are arranged on the side-walls, while 
in the adjacent lobbies are 10 rebel flags which were taken in action by 
the troops of Maine. Under the chandelier in the centre of the hall is a 
neat little fountain, whose basin is stocked with trout. On the walls are 
portraits of Governor Pownal, Sir William Pepperell, Senator Rufus King, 
Gen. Knox, and Presidents Washington and Lincoln. On one side of the 
hall is a fine bust of Gov. Chamberlain, by Jackson. From the second 
story access may be gained to the halls of the Senate and House of Repre¬ 
sentatives, and on the S. side of the third story is the State Library, con¬ 
sisting of 23,000 volumes. Still higher up is the dome, from whose sum¬ 
mit (easily accessible) a fine view is enjoyed. On the S. is seen Hallowell, 
over broad reaches of the silvery Kennebec ; on the W. are high, wooded 
hills ; on the N. is the white city of Augusta divided by the river ; and 
on the E. is the Kennebec, with the U. S. Arsenal on the meadows be¬ 
yond, and the Insane Asylum on the heights. 

The State Insane Asylum is a noble granite building on the heights E. 
of the river, and situated in extensive ornamental grounds. It cost 
$ 300,000, and accommodates 300 patients, many of whom lighten the 
hours of their seclusion from the world by working on a large farm which 
pertains to the Asylum. The building is 262 ft. long, and was erected in 
1850 - 52, after the destruction by fire of the old Asylum, in which 27 
patients and a keeper were burnt. Near this point is the Kennebec Arse¬ 
nal, where the United States keeps several thousand stand of arms, with 
many cannon and other munitions of war. There are several neat build¬ 
ings here, and the grounds are by the river-side and are well arranged. 
The Asylum and Arsenal being in the E. wards of the city, are reached 
by crossing the long bridge near the foot of Water St., from which are 
afforded views of the slender and graceful iron railway-bridge. 


AUGUSTA. 


Route 1/7. 313 


Togus Springs are about 4 M. to the S. E., and were formerly a sum¬ 
mer-resort of considerable local fame. In 1866 a National Asylum for 
disabled volunteer soldiers was established at this beautiful place, at an 
expense of $300,000. A farm of 600 acres is attached to the Asylum, 
and 500 men can be accommodated here, although but 200 are now 
present. 

Augusta occupies part of the ancient domain of the Cushnoc clan of the Can- 
ibas tribe of the Abenaqui nation of Indians. It was in the Kennebec Patent 
granted to the Plymouth Colony in 1629, and was settled before 1654, but aban¬ 
doned and laid waste in 1676 (King Philip’s War). In 1716 a stone fort was built 
here, and abandoned in 1724 (Lovewell’s War), and in 1754 Fort Western was 
built on the E. bank of the Kennebec River. This was a strong fort, surrounded 
by palisaded outworks garnished with towers, and in the autumn of 1775 it was 
occupied by Benedict Arnold, who crossed the wilderness to Quebec with 1,100 
men (New-Engianders and Virginians). His command rested here for some time, 
and made batteaux in which the Kennebec was ascended to a point above Mos¬ 
cow. A long portage then took the forces to the Dead River, which was ascended, 
amid fearful hardships by hunger, cold, and exposure, to its head-waters. Another 
portage carried them to Lake Megantic (in Canada), whence the Chaudiere River 
was descended, and Arnold’s little army of gaunt and ragged heroes arose like an 
apparition from the savage southern wilderness before the walls of Quebec. 

Augusta prospered in the arts of peace until the outbreak of the Secession 
War, in 1861, after which it became a central rendezvous for the troops of the 
State. Among the regiments which formed and encamped here was the 8th 
Maine, which fought in South Carolina and Florida, lost 95 men at Drury’s Bluff, 
83 at Wier’s Bottom, and 100 at Cold Harbor, bearing meanwhile the colors pre¬ 
sented to them by the Governor of Maryland, at Annapolis. Also the 9th Maine, 
which fought in S. Carolina, stormed the Morris Island batteries at dawn, and 
took the colors of the 21st S. C., lost 100 men in the repulse from Fort Wagner, 
and was decimated at Cold Harbor. Also the famous 1st Maine Cavalry, which 
fought at Brandy Station, Aldie, Luray, Middleburgh, and in numerous raids 
and outpost attacks, losing many hundred men. 

Augusta is 98 M. from Kittery ; 142 M. from Eastport ; 207 M. from Fort Kent; 
59 M. from Bangor ; 52 M. from Portland ; and 182 M. from Presque Isle. The 
State, of which it is the capital, has an area greater than that of the other five 
New England States combined, but is slowly decreasing in population, having 
suffered an actual loss of 7,872 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. 

Steamers run between Augusta, Portland, and Boston, semi-weekly, stopping at 
the river-landings. 

Stages run from Augusta to W. Gardiner, Litchfield, Webster, and Lisbon Falls; 
to Winthrop and Wayne ; to Manchester, Readfield, Mt. Vernon, Fayette, Vienna, 
Chesterville, and Farmington; to Belgrade, Rome, and New Sharon ; to S. Vas- 
salboro, China, Albion, Unity, Troy, Dixmont, Newburg, and Bangor; to 
Windsor, Palermo, Liberty, Montville, N. Searsmont, Belmont, and Belfast (42 
M., fare S3.00) ; also across Lincoln County to Rockland and Damariscotta. 


At Augusta the line crosses the Kennebec on a light and graceful iron 
bridge, and follows the beautiful river for over 20 M. (seat on the 1. side 
preferable). Station, Vassalboro (small inn), a manufacturing village in 
a large and prosperous town, which is pleasantly diversified by hills and 
ponds, and has on the E. China Lake , which is about 10 M. long and 
affords good fishing. The lake is almost cut in two by projecting points 
at the Narrows, and empties by the Sebasticook River. S. China is a 
pretty village at the S. end of the lake, with a tavern, a church, and 3 
stores. 


14 


314 Route 47. 


WATER VILLE. 


Beyond Vassalboro, the train passes through Winslow, and crosses the 
Kennebec near its confluence with the Sebasticook. The ruins of Fort 
Halifax are seen on the bluff point just S. of the union of the rivers. 
This fort was one-of a chain erected by Mass, to defend the Maine coast 
from French raids. It was built by Gov. Shirley in 1754, and garrisoned 
by 130 men, until its abandonment, after the Peace of Paris (1763). 
Large Indian settlements formerly occupied the intervales in this vicinity, 
and as early as 1676 envoys of Massachusetts came here to detach the 
tribe from King Philip’s Confederation, — an unsuccessful attempt. 

Station, Waterville (two inns), a place of nearly 5,000 inhabitants, 
near the Ticonic Falls on the Kennebec River. The village is built along 
rambling streets on a broad plain above the river, and has some handsome 
residences. Near the station are the buildings of Colby University 
(founded in 1820), which has 6 instructors and 52 students, with a library 
of 6 - 8,000 volumes. This institution is under the care of the Baptist 
Church, and besides the usual barrack-like dormitories of American 
colleges it has two handsome new stone buildings. On one side is the 
new granite Scientific Department, while the other wing of the line is 
occupied by a fine stone building with a tower. The lower part of this 
edifice is occupied by the library, while the upper part is consecrated as 
a Memorial Hall. On one side of this hall is a fine monument by Mil- 
more, representing a colossal dead lion, transfixed by a spear, with an 
agonized face, and with his paw resting on the shield of the Union (an 
adaptation of Thorwaldsen’s Lion at Lucerne). Below this large and 
beautiful work is a tablet (also of marble) containing the names of 20 
former students who fell in the War for the Union, with the inscription, 

“ Fratribus etiam in cineribus caris quorum nomina intra ineisa sunt, quique 
in bello civili pro reipublicse integritate ceciderunt, hanc Tabulam posuerunt 
alumni.” The Memorial Hall is to be decorated with pictures. 

A branch railroad runs from Waterville to Skowhegan (see Route 42), and at 
this point the Lewiston Division of the Maine Central Railway (Route 46) unites 
with the present route (the Augusta Division.) Stages run hence to many rural 
villages. 

In running from Waterville to Bangor the train passes Kendall’s Mills, 
or Fairfield, Station, and soon after the track of the Skowhegan Division 
turns off to the 1., and the present route (Bangor Division) crosses the 
Kennebec on a high bridge. Stations, Clinton and Burnham. 

From Burnham the Belfast Division of the Maine Central Railway runs S. E. to 
the city of Belfast (see Route 48), in 85 M. passing through the farming towns of 
Waldo County, Unity, Thorndike, Brooks, and Waldo. 

Beyond Burnham the line follows the Sebasticook River to the station, 
Pittsfield (Lancey House; daily stage to Palmyra, Hartland, St. Albans, 
Plarmony, Ripley, and Cambridge in 20 M., fare $ 1.50.) Stations, Detroit, 
and Newport {Shaw House), a prosperous village on the shores of East 
Pond, which is 15 M. around and affords good fishing. The Dexter 
Division of the Maine Central Railway runs N. to Dexter (see Route 43). 


BANGOR. Route 47. 315 

To the S. are the high hills of Dixmont, and the train passes on by 
E. Neivjport, Etna, Carmel, and Ilermon Pond to 

Bangor. 

Hotels.— * Bangor House, on the heights, $2.50-3.00 ; Penobscot Exchange; 
Franklin House ; and many others. 

Steamers leave tri-weekly (during the season of navigation) for Portland and 
Boston, stopping at the river-ports. 

Railroads. —The Maine Central, to Portland and Boston, 246 M. (by Eastern 
R. R.), in 11 hrs. The European and North American R. R. to St. John, 205& 
M., in 10J-16 hrs. (the train leaving Bangor early in the morning arrives at St. 
John about 6 p. m.). The Bangor and Piscataquis R. R., to Guilford, 61 M., in 
3£ - 5 hrs. 

Stages run to Hampden, Frankfort, Prospect, Stockton, Searsport, and Belfast 
(30 JVL, fare $ 2.50 ; leaves early in the morning) ; to Monroe ; to Newburg, Dix¬ 
mont, Troy, Unity, Albion, and China ; to Exeter ; to Kenduskeag, Corinth, and 
Charleston ; to Glenburn, Brownville, and Katahdin Iron Works ; to Brewer, 
Eddington, Clifton, Amherst, and Aurora ; to Orrington, Bucksport, Orland, 
Penobscot, and Castine ; to Ellsworth, Cherryfield, Machias, and Eastport(125 M., 
fare $ 10, leaves every evening). 

Bangor, the second city in Maine, and the second lumber-mart in the 
world, is a handsome city situated on commanding hills at the head of 
navigation on the Penobscot River. It is about 60 M. from the sea, and 
is divided into two parts by the deep ravine in which flows the Kendus¬ 
keag Stream. The business part of the city is situated on the level land 
adjoining this stream on both sides, and has many massive and substantial 
commercial buildings, since Bangor is the trade-centre for a larger area of 
country than is fed by any other New England city. It contains 18,289 
inhabitants (in 1800 it had 277), with 11 banks, a daily and 2 weekly 
papers, 5 insurance companies, 5 Masonic lodges, 43 schools, and 14 
churches. The heights on either side of the Kenduskeag are lined with 
well-shaded streets, and have many handsome residences, while there are 
several well-built churches in the same localities. The Custom House and 
Post Office, on the Kenduskeag Bridge, is a neat granite structure. There 
are 240 men engaged in iron-works here, and 150 in the shoe-manufactur¬ 
ing trade, besides which the city has several small factories and ship¬ 
yards, with a lucrative coasting and foreign trade. The products of the 
rich alluvial basin of the Penobscot are handled here, although, on account 
of the severity of the climate in this high latitude, but a small portion of 
the valley is under cultivation. The tributaries of the Penobscot pene¬ 
trate the great Maine Forest in every direction, and bear downward to 
Bangor immense quantities of lumber, in the sawing and shipment of 
which the city finds its chief industry. The booms in which the descend¬ 
ing logs are caught extend for miles along the river, and a great number 
of saw-mills are in operation along the shores. Up to 1855, 2,999,847,201 
ft. of lumber had been surveyed at Bangor; between 1859 and 1869, 
1,869,965,454 ft of. long lumber were shipped hence; in 1868 alone, 
274,000,000 ft. of short lumber (clapboards, laths, and shingles) were 


316 Route 48. 


BANGOR. 


shipped; and in 1872, 246,500,000 ft. of long lumber were surveyed here. 
The lumber crop of 1872, in Maine, was about 1 00,000,000 ft., of which 
225,000,000 floated down the Penobscot, and 100,000,000 passed down 
the Kennebec. To transport this immense amount of lumber to its des¬ 
tined markets, fleets of hundreds of vessels come up to the city, where 
there is a broad expanse of deep water with tides rising over 16 ft. 

The Theological Seminary was chartered by the State of Mass, in 1814, 
and is under the care of the Congregational Church, though its teaching 
is non-sectarian orthodoxy. It occupies buildings fronting on a broad 
campus, in the highest part of the city, and has 5 professors, 40 - 50 
students, and about 600 alumni, with a library of 13,000 volumes. No- 
rumbega Hall is on the Kenduskeag Bridge, and pertains to the city; its 
lower portion being used as a market, while in the upper hall 2,000 
persons can be seated. 

It is said that Champlain ascended the Penobscot as far as the site of Bangor, 
in 1603. The settlement was made between 1769 and 1775, and in 1791 Rev. Seth 
Noble, its representative, was ordered by the people to have it incorporated under 
the name of Sunbury. Mr. Noble, however, was very fond of the old tune of 
“Bangor,” and (perhaps inadvertently) had that name given to the new town. In 
1814 the town was taken by a British squadron, after the destruction of the “John 
. Adams ” ; in 1838 it became a city ; and in 1848 it was declared a port of entry. 
The 2d Maine regiment was raised in 1861 around Bangor, and received superb 
colors from the ladies of New York, Baltimore, and San Francisco. The latter 
flag was the finest in the army, and was the centre of a terrific fight at Bull Run, 
in which the color-guards were all killed, and the opposing regiment (the 7th 
Georgia) was “neai’ly annihilated.” The flag was not lost, and the regiment was 
the last on the field. At Gaines’ Mill this command took the 5th Alabama flags, 
and at Fredericksburg it lost -J- of its rank and file. 

Glenburn ( Perch House ) is 10 M. N. of Bangor, on Pushaw Pond, which has 
considerable local fame for its fine fishing. 

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot Biver. 

By Sanford’s Independent Line of steamers, leaving Boston, Monday, Tues¬ 
day, Thursday, and Friday, at 5 p. m. (time-table of 1872). Boston to Rockland 
$ 2.00 ; to Bangor, $3.00. 

By Route 37 or 38 to Portland, and thence by steamer to Bangor (Portland to 
' Bangor, $2.50); or by Routes 37 (or 38) and 44 to Rockland, and thence up the 
river by steamer. 

In calm weather the outside route is very pleasant. The steamer 
passes clown Boston Harbor (see page 20) and. out on the open sea, ap¬ 
proaching Cape Ann and Thacher’s Island (Route 36) at late twilight. 
The early riser next morning will see the bold shores of Monhegan Island, 
far out in the ocean. This island was settled in 1618, and had a stirring 
history for more than a century, but now has only a few score of inhab¬ 
itants, mostly engaged in the deep-sea fisheries, or wringing scanty crops 
from the rugged thousand acres on the bluffs. The steamer now passes 
in by the historic peninsulas of Knox County, leaves Vinalhaven on the 
E., and rounding Owl’s Head, reaches Rockland, 175 M. from Boston 
(see Route 44). The Tuesday and Friday steamers here connect closely 


BELFAST. 


Route /ft. 317 


with the steamer for Mt. Desert. After leaving Rockland, and passing 
Rockport on the 1., the steamer approaches a chain of lofty hills, and 
enters the harbor of Camden (* Bay Vieiv House, 100 guests, $2.00 a 
day ; West Mt. Home). This is a pretty town, with 5 villages, 4,500 in¬ 
habitants, and 9 churches. It was visited by De Monts in 1604, and by 
Weymouth in 1605, was named in honor of Lord Camden, America’s 
friend in Parliament, and was fortified in 1812 to check the British at 
Castine. Pring coasted by this place in 1603, and reported it “a high 
country, full of great woods,” and such it still is. The two Megunticook 
peaks rise back of the town to the height, respectively, of 1,335 and 1,457 
ft., while Mts. Pleasant, Batty, Hosmer, and others complete the group. 
The * view from Megunticook is one of the noblest of marine prospects, 
embracing the blue Penobscot Bay with its archipelago, Mt. Desert far in 
the E. and a vast sweep of the ocean on the S. E. 

The steamer runs N. for 18 M. between the shores of Lincolnville and 
Northport, and the insular town of Islesborough, and stops at Belfast 
{American House ; New England House). This is a handsome little 
city (5,278 inhabitants) built on a declivity which slopes to the water, 
with wide, shady streets, and several commercial blocks built of brick. 
It has 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, 6 churches, several shipyards, and the 
Waldo County buildings. 

This port was discovered by Weymouth in 1605, who set up a cross (Anglican) 
here, and wrote that “ many who had been travellers in sundry countries and in 
most famous rivers, affirmed them not comparable to this, — the most beautiful, 
rich, large, secure, hai'boring river that the world affordeth.” Belfast was settled 
and named in 1770 by Scotch-Irisli Presbyterians from Londonderry (N. H.), and 
was abandoned in 1779, after attacks by the British at Castine. It was resettled 
in 1786, and invested by the British in 1814. In 1865, a destructive fire swept 
over its business quarter, and between 1860 and 1870 its population decreased by 
250. 

Castine is seen far across the bay to the E. as the steamer runs up 7 
M. to Sear sport (small hotel), a maritime town with nearly 3,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, under the lee of Brigadier Island. • 

Passing out into the bay, with the historic peninsula of Pentagoet 
(Castine) on the E., the bold shore of Fort Point is soon reached. Here, 
in 1758-9, Gov. Pownall erected a powerful fort for the defence' of the 
Penobscot. It was the best fort in Maine, and its construction was paid 
for by Parliament. The British frigate “ Canseau ” partly demolished it in 
1775, and in 1779 Capt. Cargill, of the American army, finished its de¬ 
struction. Some remains of the fort are still visible, and near it is a fine 
new summer hotel, which commands broad views down Penobscot Bay. 
The steamer stops here, with the tall lighthouse (87 ft. high) in view, and 
a white village of Stockton in the cove to the W. 

Now steaming N., Wetmore Island is passed on the r. (a barren tract 
with about 400 inhabitants who live by fishing and hunting), and the 


318 Route 49. 


OLDTOWN. 


river seems to end, so rapidly does it contract.. As the swift tides of 
Bucksport Narrows are entered, a sudden turn reveals the bright village 
of Bucksport (Robinson House ; Riverside House), a shipbuilding and 
fishing place with 3,433 inhabitants. This town was settled by Col. 
Buck, of Haverhill, in 1764, and now has two banks, a custom house, 
several churches, and a lucrative county trade. On the hill above the 
village is the E. Maine Conference Seminary, a Methodist School with 
3 - 400 students, from whose lawn beautiful river-views are afforded. On 
the bluff opposite Bucksport is Fort Knox, an immense and costly forti¬ 
fication lately built by the U. S.,'which completely commands the river 
with its heavy batteries. 

Stages run from Bucksport to Mt. Desert (see Route 45), in about 30 M., pass¬ 
ing through Ellsworth (American House), a city of 5,260 inhabitants, the capi¬ 
tal of Hancock County. 

The river now grows more narrow and picturesquely sinuous, "while 
vessels are frequently passed. Winterport (Commercial House) is reached 
5 M. above Bucksport, after passing Mt. Waldo and the granite-producing 
shores of Frankfort on the W. 7 M. beyond, the steamer stops at Hamp¬ 
den (Penobscot House), where the U. S. corvette “John Adams,” 24, was 
attacked (while refitting) in 1814 by a small British fleet. Capt. Morris, 
of the “ Adams,” had armed shore-batteries with his ship’s guns, but the 
badly officered rural militia were speedily routed by a bayonet-charge of 
the British regulars. Morris then spiked his guns, blew up his ship, and 
retreated with the sailors to Bangor. The British plundered and overran 
Hampden for 3 days. Soon after leaving Hampden, the steamer reaches 
(about noon) the city of Bangor (see Route 47). 

49. Bangor to St. John. 

By the European and North American Railway, 205^ M. Passengers on the 
through train from Boston (by Routes 37 and 47) make their first and only change 
of cars here. 

Seats on the r. side of the car afford views of the river. After leaving 
Bangor, the train passes Veazie and other stations, with the river covered 
with booms and immense rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. Sta¬ 
tions, Orono (the seat of the State Agricultural College), and Oldtown 
(two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, mostly engaged in the 
lumber business. The immense and costly booms and mills should be 
noticed here. Oldtown has the largest lumber-mill in the world, where 
100 saws are at work turning the rude logs which come in at one side into 
planks, which arq rafted away to Bangor. On an island near the village 
(ferry-boat on the shore) is the home of the Tarratine Indians, one of the 
three tribes of the Etchemin nation. Though the most powerful and war¬ 
like of the northern tribes, the Tarratines rarely attacked the colonists. 


FREDERICTON. 


Route 49. 319 


After a series of wrongs and insults from the whites, they attacked the 
settlements in 1678, and inflicted such terrible damage and loss of life 
that Maine became tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After de¬ 
stroying Pemaquid to avenge an insult to their chief St. Castin, they re¬ 
mained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1726 contains the substance 
of their present relations with the State. They own the islands in the 
Penobscot, and have a revenue of $6-7,000 from the State, which the 
men eke out by working on the lumber rafts, by hunting and fishing, 
while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The declension 
of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now slowly increasing. 
The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons there, most 
of whom are half-breeds. 

At Oldtown the line crosses the Penobscot on a high bridge, and enters 
Milford, a lumbering village. The 1. bank of the Penobscot River is now 
followed for 45 M. to Mattawamkeag, through a succession of thinly popu¬ 
lated towns, Greenbush, Passadumkeag, Enfield, Lincoln, and Winn, 
whose inhabitants are mostly engaged in lumbering. Mattawamkeag (two 
inns) is a small village at the confluence of two rivers. 

Stages run 38 M. N. through the wilderness to Patten (small inn), the outpost 
of civilization nearest to Mt. Katahdin, a lone peak which rises out of the wilder¬ 
ness to a height of 5,385 ft. 

Stages also run N. E. through the forest, crossing 8 townships, to Houlton. 
Stages run from Lincoln to Springfield, Carroll, Topsfield, and Calais. 

The railway now follows the Mattawamkeag River, and runs through 
the forest (almost unbroken) for 58 M. to Vanceboro (Chijoutneticook 
House ; restaurant in the station). Weston is a post-town on the Calais 
and Houlton mail-stage line, with 400 inhabitants and a hotel. This point, 
which may be reached from Bancroft or Danforth, is near the shore of the 
Grand Schoodic Lake, where fine fishing is afforded. Vanceboro has good 
trouting on the St. Croix River, and soon after leaving this village the 
train crosses the St. Croix and enters the Province of New Brunswick. 
At Me Adam Junction the New Brunswick and Canada Railroad is crossed, 
and the train passes on through a monotonous wilderness to Douglas Mt., 
inWelsford, beyond which the St. John Valley is entered, and the river 
is followed down to St. John, 91 M. from Vanceboro. 

By changing cars at Fredericton Junction, travellers pass in ,1 hr. to 
Fredericton ( Queen's HotelBarker's). Fredericton is a small city of 
8,000 inhabitants, beautifully situated on the St. John River, and distin¬ 
guished as the political capital of the Province. The Government House 
is a plain and dignified stone building in extensive grounds just N. of the 
city, and the Parliament House is an inferior structure near the deserted 
barracks. The University of New Brunswick has fine buildings on a com¬ 
manding hill near the city, and the Exhibition Budding (near the railway 


320 Route 49. 


ST. JOHN. 


station) is worthy of notice. * Christ Church Cathedral (Episcopal) is 
one of the finest on the continent, though small. It is of gray stone, in 
English Gothic architecture, and has a stone spire, 178 ft. high, rising 
from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, 
and the chancel has a superb window of Newcastle stained glass, pre¬ 
sented by the Episcopal church in the United States. In the centre is 
Christ crucified, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. 
Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the church tower is a chime 
of 8 bells, each inscribed, 


“ Ave, Pater, Rex, Creator, 
Ave, Fili, Lux, Salvator, 
Ave Spiritus Consolator, 
Ave Beata Unitas. 


Ave, Simplex, Ave, Trine, 
Ave, Regnans in Sublime, 
Ave Resonet sine fine, 

Ave Sancta Trinitas.” 


The St. John River. 




When there is water enough in the river, steamers ascend the St. John River to 
Woodstock, 62 M. N. W., and near Houlton. Steamers leave Fredericton for St. 
John at 8 a. m., arriving there'at 3 p. m. Distance, about 90 M. ; fare, $1.50. 
The steamers run only on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday (in 1872), leaving St. 
John the alternate days, at 8 a.m. . 


As the steamer passes into the stream, a beautiful view of the capital 
city, with its Cathedral and University, is obtained. On the opposite 
shore is the mouth of the Nashwaak River, where stood a fort which was 
a centre of siege 250 years ago. 11 M. below, the village at the mouth of 
the Oromocto River is passed, and the lofty spire of Burton church is soon 
after seen on the r. The boat stops at Sheffield, with its large academy, 
and passes Maugerville, which was settled by Bostonians in 1766. Gage- 
town is next seen, on a bluff opposite the mouth of the Jemseg River, and 
in a rich farming country. Numerous islands are passed, and broad in¬ 
tervales stretch back from the shores. The steamer soon enters the Long 
Reach, which is followed for 20 M., passing the mouth of the Nerepis 
River, with its fortified point, abandoned for two centuries. At Grand 
Bay the scenery grows nobler, and the broad estuary of the Kennebecasis 
River opens to the E. with fine effect. A narrow channel between pic¬ 
turesque palisades is now entered, and followed on swift waters, until a 
glimpse of the Suspension Bridge is gained on the r. as the steamer rounds 
to her pier at Indiantown, a suburb of 


St. John. 

Hotels. —^Victoria Hotel, 300 guests, $3.00 (Canadian) a day; Rothesay 
House ; Barnes House ; Waverly House ; American House. 

Carriages.— 20c. a course in the city; 25c. each half-hour. Horse-Cars to 
Indiantown, fare 5c. 

Railways.— To Fredericton, Bangor, and Boston; to Woodstock, Houlton, 
and St. Andrews ; to Shediac, Halifax, and Windsor. 

Steamers.— To Eastport, Portland, and Boston; to Digby and Annapolis ; to 
Yarmouth and Shelburne ; to Halifax ; to Fredericton and Woodstock. 



THE NEW BRUNSWICK BORDER. Route 50. 321 


St. John, the metropolis of New Brunswick, is a city of 29,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, situated on a rocky promontory between the St. John River and 
Courtnay Bay. Its situation on high hills renders it very picturesque, 
either from within or as seen from the harbor. The streets are broad and 
straight, and King’s and Queen’s Squares and other open grounds diversify 
the surface of the hills. The city has some manufactures and a large 
coast and country trade, and its water-front is worthy of a visit. There 
are 8 Episcopal Churches, 3 Catholic, 9 Baptist, 6 Methodist, 7 Presby¬ 
terian, and 1 Congregational. The Custom House, the Y. M. C. A. 
building, the Orphan Asylum, the Rink, and the City Hospital are good 
buildings. The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (PI. 8) 
is a large stone structure with a lofty spire, and with stained glass 
windows in chancel, transept, and aisles. The ornaments of the choir in 
colored marble are worthy of notice. Near the Cathedral is the Bishop’s 
Palace, and some convent-schools. From this vicinity Reed’s Castle is 
seen, whence a fine view of the city and harbor is obtained. Lily Lake is 
near the castle. 

The favorite drives are out over Marsh Bridge to Red Head; to the 
Cemetery and Loch Lomond; and over the Suspension Bridge to the 
heights of Carleton. The * Bridge is 640 ft. long and 100 ft. above low 
water, and affords a fine view of the St. John Falls, where the river dashes 
down at low tide through a narrow gorge. At high tide is presented the 
remarkable sight of a river falling up stream, when the tides of the Bay 
of Fundy rush upward through the gorge far above the river level. 
From the Lunatic Asylum, or from the Martello Tower on Carleton 
Heights, a panoramic view of the city, the bay, and the remote purple 
line of the Nova Scotia shore, is given. The Mahogany road is a pleasant 
drive near the Bay. 

Champlain discovered and named the St. John River on St. John’s Day, 1604. 
In 1635 Charles St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour, built a fort here, which was vainly 
attacked by D’Aulney in 1643, the siege being raised by Massachusetts ships 
attacking D’Aulney. During the absence of La Tour in 1645, the fort (under 
command of Madame La Tour) repulsed a naval attack, but was forced, later in 
the year, to surrender. Madame La Tour was made to stand with a rope around 
her neck, while the whole garrison was massacred.! She died within a few 
days, and D’Aulney soon followed her. La Tour married Madame D’Aulney in 
1653, and thus rewon his fort. It was soon captured by the English, and left 
desolate for a century. In 1758 a British garrison was established here, and in 
1776 the men of Maehias destroyed the fort and cannonaded the neighboring 
village. In 1783 a fleet-full of loyalists from the United States landed and settled 
here, and since then the city has grown rapidly. 

50. The New-Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska. 

Eastport may be reached by the International steamers, which leave Boston at 
8 a. m., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (in July, Aug., and Sept.), and Portland 
at 6 p. m. on the same days. Boston to St, John, $5.00; Portland to Eastport, 
$4.00 (180 M.). 


1 See Whittier's poem of “ St. John.'* 

14* 


u 





322 Route 50. 


ST. ANDREW. 


Stages leave Bangor every evening for Eastport, wilieh is 125 M. distant, via 
Ellsworth and Machias. Fare, $ 10.00. 

Eastport (* Passamaquoddy House) is the coast border-town, and has 
3,738 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated on a hilly island in Passama- 
quoddy Bay, and is commanded by Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the 
U. S. The bay abounds in picturesque islands, the chief of which is 
Campo Bello, opposite Eastport and within the Canadian borders. This 
island is often visited in summer, and has much fine ocean scenery. To 
the S. is Quoddy Head and the Canadian island of Grand Menan (1,800 
inhabitants), 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, with its western shore lined 
by frowning cliffs 3 - 400 ft. high. 

Eastport was settled in 1780, and was captured and fortified by .a British fleet 
in 1814. It was the birthplace of Henry Prince, C. H. Smith, and N. J. T. Dana, 
able national generals during the Secession War. The 6tli Maine Infantry gathered 
here in 1861, and then moved away to Virginia, where it was engaged in 10 pitched 
battles, and lost over 300 men by death. 

Stages and steamers run 30 M. N. W. from Eastport to Calais. The 
steamer moves out across the broad and island-studded bay, passing on 
the 1. Pleasant Point (in Perry), the home of the 400 remaining members 
of the Openango tribe of the Etehemin nation of Indians. The first stop¬ 
ping-place is St. Andrew (with a large new hotel accommodating 300 
guests), a decadent maritime provincial town (3,000 inhabitants), pleasantly 
situated on a long promontory, and having fine facilities for bathing, boat¬ 
ing, and fishing. St. Andrew is the shire-town of Charlotte County, N. B., 
and is the terminus of the N. B. and Canada Railway. Beyond this port the 
bay narrows rapidly, and Neutral Island (with its lighthouse) is passed, 
opposite Robbinston. Henri IV. of France granted Acadia (an indefinite 
district, embracing Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and as much more as 
he could get) to the Sieur de Monts in 1602. In 1604 the grantee brought 
over a colony (mostly of Huguenots) and settled on this island, which 
he fortified strongly. During the mournful winter of 1604-5, 36 out of 
70 of the colonists died, either from scurvy, or from drinking water 
poisoned by the Indians. Remains of De Monts’ fort may be seen on the 
island ( which belongs to the U. S.). Robbinston village is now touched at, 
and then the steamer passes up by Oak Point and Devil’s Head to Calais 
(International Hotel; St. Croix Exchange). This is a city of about 6,000 
inhabitants, with 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, and 6 churches. It was 
founded in 1789, and has a large shipbuilding and lumber business. 

A railway runs 20 M. N. W. from Calais to Lewey’s Island (in Princeton ; two 
inns), whence the picturesque Schoodic Lakes may be entered. The steamer 
“ Gipsey ” runs (irregularly, for lumbering work) on Lewey’s, Big, and Long Lakes. 
There is a large village of Passamaquoddy Indians on one of these lakes, and 
hunting and fishing parties from the coast cities often pass the summer here, 
roughing it in canoes and in the forest. 

Mail-stages run from Calais to Eastport; also (daily) through the vast and des¬ 
olate forest to Bangor, 95 M. W. ; fare, $7.50 ; also (from Princeton) to Houltofi. 




WOODSTOCK. 


Route 50. 323 


A covered bridge leads from Calais to St. Stephen ( Walker House), a 
bright and active town of over 5,000 inhabitants. The citizens of Calais 
and of St. Stephen have ever lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and 
kept an agreement by which they refrained from mutual hostility during 
the War of 1812. 

From this point the N. B. and Canada Railway runs W. through the 
forest (crossing Route 49 at McAdam Junction) to Debec, 74 M. distant, 
whence a branch road runs (in 11 M.) to Woodstock, the shire-town of 
Carleton County, N. B. This town has 4,000 inhabitants, and is pleas¬ 
antly situated on the St. John River, 150 M. from its mouth. Stages run 
through Tobique to Grand Falls, where the river is contracted into a 
narrow gorge between lofty cliffs, and plunges over a succession of rocky 
steps, the first leap being 40 ft. perpendicular. Tri-weekly stages run 
from this point through the French settlements at Madawaska, to Riviere 
du Loup, on the St. Lawrence River (see Route 56). 

From Debec a branch railroad runs N. W. 8 M. to Houlton ( Snell 
House ; Buzzell House), the shire-town of Aroostook County, Maine, with 
a population of 2,851, 2 weekly papers, and 5 churches. Houlton is 456 

M. (by railway) from Boston, and has stage-routes running to all parts of 

N. E. Maine. 

Stages run S. through Hodgdon, Amity, Orient, Weston (30 M.), and Topsfield, 
to Calais ; through Linneus, Macwahoc, and Molunkus, to Mattawamkeag ; to 
Smyrna, Rookabema, and Patten (W.) ; by Littleton, Monticello, Bridgewater 
(dinner at Half-Way House), Mars Hill (1,700 ft. high), and Easton, to Presque 
Isle. 

Presque Isle (small hotel) is a forest village, with nearly 1,000 inhab¬ 
itants, a weekly paper (the “ Presque Isle Sunrise ”), 4 churches, and an 
academy. This is one of the centres of the rich farming lands of Aroos¬ 
took County, which cover over 500,000 acres, and are being taken up 
rapidly by settlers, induced by their variety, fertility, and cheapness. 
Two fine national roads cross this district, — the Aroostook, from Matta¬ 
wamkeag to Fort Kent, and the Military Road through Houlton to Van 
Buren. Many Swedes are settling here, while Madawaska is a populous 
French district. 

Stages run from Presque Isle to Houlton, Washburn, and Dalton ; the latter 
road passing W. by the Allagash Mts. to the Lake of Seven Isles, a little above 
the head of tow-boat navigation on the St. John River and over 80 M. from Dal¬ 
ton. This road passes through the heart of the great forest. “The primeval 
woods of Maine still cover an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest 
of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of R. I., Conn., 
and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still have about 
each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a 
compass a work of desperate adventure.” 

Fort Fairfield (small hotel) is on the frontier, on .the road running E. from 
Presque Isle to Tobique (N. B.) on the St. John River. It has nearly 2,000 in¬ 
habitants, with 5 churches. 

Stages run on the Military Road, to Fort Kent, 84 M. N. W. of Presque 





324 Route 50. 


MADAWASKA. 


Isle. This route crosses and follows the Aroostook River to Caribou, and 
then runs for 20 M. through the forest to Van Buren (two inns), a semi- 
French settlement (1,000 inhabitants) on the St. John, and near the 
Grand Falls. The road now turns N. W. and follows the St. John 15 M. 
to Grant Isle, a French village, 10 M. beyond which is Madawaska 
(Fournier’s inn), a village belonging to a large district which has long 
been inhabited by Acadian French, who were expelled from Nova Scotia 
( Acadie ) in 1755. There are several thousand of these Catholic and 
“pious Acadian peasants,” divided into 4 parishes, and here the tourist 
may perhaps find an “Evangeline.” (The poem has been translated into 
Canadian French, and is popular.) Madawaska and the Eagle Lakes lie 
S; of this village, which is 100 M. N. of Houlton. 26 M. beyond (the 
stage following the St. John River, and passing through Dionne), Fort 
Kent, with its two inns and ruined block-house, is reached. The popula¬ 
tion is still French, and 20 M. W. is St. Francis, another Acadian village. 
(Stages run occasionally.) 

Fort Kent is 194 M. from Bangor, and 440 M. from Boston. 


NEW YORK CITY TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

Having described New England and her eastern frontier in the 50 pre¬ 
ceding routes, it has been thought advisable to add thereto a brief survey 
of those most interesting regions which lie on the west and north of her 
borders. The tourist might easily arrange a profitable and pleasant sum¬ 
mer-trip, by taking either of the Routes, 3, 8, 19, or 21, to New York, 
thence ascending the Hudson to Albany, and passing to Montreal by way 
of Saratoga and Lakes George and Champlain, whence Quebec and the 
Saguenay are easily reached ; and the return to Boston could be effected by 
either of the Routes, 24 (and 25) or 40 (and 37 or 38.) . 


Route 51. 

52. 

53. 

54. 

55. 

56. 


New York City and its Environs. 

New York to Albany. The Hudson River. 

Albany to Montreal. Saratoga and Lake George. 
Montreal and its Environs. 

Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River. 
Quebec. ' The Saguenay River. 







NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 325 


51. New York City. 

Arrival. —The railway-station (Boston line) is on 4th Ave., corner of 42d 
St. Horse-cars run thence down 4th Ave. to Union Square, and through the 
Bowery to the City Hall Park and Astor House. The piers of the three steam¬ 
boat lines are on the Hudson River. 

Hotels. — The * Fifth Avenue, on Madison Square (8 - 900 guests), a vast and 
superb marble building ; the *St. Nicholas, on Broadway, corner of Spring St., a 
marble building in the Corinthian order, six stories high, cost $ 1,000,000, and cares 
for 1,000 guests ; the * Metropolitan, on Broadway, corner of Prince, is of brown- 
stone, six stories high, and cost nearly $ 1,000,000 ; the * Grand Central, on Broad¬ 
way between Amity and Bleecker Sts., eight stories high, of marble, and accom¬ 
modating 1,500 guests ; Hoffman House, on Madison Square, an aristocratic house, 
caring for 350 guests; Gramercy Park House, on Gramercy Park, an immense 
family hotel, with room for 6 - 800 guests; Grand Hotel, corner Broadway ancl 
31st St., an elegant first-class house. These immense hotels are amply supplied 
with all the luxuries of modern American civilization. Their charges are from 
$4.00 to $5.00 a day, with considerable reductions in case of a long sojourn. 
There are several first-class hotels on Union Square : the Everett (European plan) ; 
the Clarendon, patronized by English tourists ; the Union Square ; the Spingler; 
the Union Place, &c. The New York Hotel, 721 Broadway, is a resort for 
Southern visitors ; the Prescott House, 531 Broadway, accommodates 300 guests 
and is much frequented by foreign tourists; so is also the palatial St. Denis 
Hotel, on Broadway opposite Grace Church. The St. Cloud (corner of Broadway 
and 42d St.) is the best up-town hotel; the Gilsey House (Broadway and 29th St.) 
and the St. James (Broadway and 26th St.) are also fine hotels above Madison 
Square. The Merchants’, National, and Western are on Cortlandt St., in the 
lower part of the city, and are patronized by business men. The* Astor House 
(on Broadway, opposite the Post Office) is kept on the European plan, as are also 
the Brandreth (corner of Broadway and Canal St.), the Westminster (corner 
Irving Place and 16th St.), the Belvidere (Irving Place and 15th St.), the Irving 
(Broadway and 12th St.), the Brevoort (5th Ave. and 8th St.), the Albemarle, &e. 
French’s, Leggett’s, Sweeny’s, and the Cosmopolitan are near the City Hall Parle. 
Rooms may be obtained at the European plan hotels for from $ 1 to $ 3 a day, 
with meals a la carte within the house or elsewhere. For a tourist who is to 
make but a short visit to New York these houses will be found more commodious 
and less expensive then those on the American plan. There are about 140 other 
hotels in the city, several of which are first-class. The Stevens House is on Broad¬ 
way near the Battery; and the Grand Union, opposite the Grand Central depot 
(42d St.) is conveniently situated for passengers arriving by late trains Rom New 
England or the North. 

Restaurants. — * Delmonico’s, comer 5th Ave. and 14th St., the best in 
America (with branch establishments down town, at the corner of Broadway and 
Chambers St., and on Broad St. near Wall); Parker’s, on Broadway near 34th St., 
is frequented by ladies ; also Bigot’s, on 14th St., near Broadway; Geyer’s, 734 
and 736 Broadway, is a large and favorite restaurant; Solari, corner of University 
Place and 11th St., prepares elaborate late dinners. Iauch (864 Broadway) and 
• Bergman (1,121 Broadway) keep ladies’ restaurants, which are much frequented ; 
Arnaud (815 Broadway) is famous for fine French candies ; and Purssell’s (910 
Broadway) is a favorite lunch-saloon for the up-town ladies. At 39 Park Row, 
and at Leggett’s Hotel are large eating-houses for down-town merchants. 

The cafes and restaurants attached to the large hotels on the European plan are 
generally well kept, and are much visited by ladies. The Astor House lias one 
of the best of these. Oysters may be found in every variety in the small saloons 
in Fulton Market. Maillard’s (621 Broadway) is famous for fine confectionery 
and chocolate. New England dishes are served at Pearson’s, on Cortlandt near 
Greenwich St. 

Consuls. — English, 17 Broadway ; German, 117 Broadway; French, 4 Bowling 
Green ; Italian, 7 Broadway ; Austrian, 33 Broadway; Russian, 52 Exchange 
Place ; Swedish, 18 Exchange Place ; Spanish, 20 Broadway ; Swiss, 23 John St. 

Reading Rooms. — In all the chief hotels (for guests) ; Y. M. C. Association, 
corner 23d St. and 4th Ave., also at 285. Hudson St., 473 Grand St., and 285 





326 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Bleecker St. Astor Library, Lafayette Place, open 9£-5; City Library, City 
Hall, open free to all, 10-4 ; * Cooper Union, corner 7th St. and 4th Ave., open 
from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; Woman’s Library, open 9-4 ($1.50 a year) ; N. Y. His¬ 
torical Society, corner 11th St. and 2d. Ave. 

Post Office, corner of Cedar and Nassau Sts., open continuously except 
Sundays, when it is only open between 9 and 11 a. m. ; eight deliveries of letters 
daily ; the Eastern mails close at 5 a. m., 1.30 p. m., and 6 p. m. 

Carriages. — For one passenger for a distance of 1 M. or less, 50 c. ; two 
passengers, 75c. ; for one passenger for more than 1 and less than 2 M., 75 c. ; and 
for each additional passenger, 37£ c. ; “ use of a hackney coach or carnage by the 
day, with 1 or more passengers, $5.00”; by the hour, stopping as often as re¬ 
quired, $1.00. No extra charge is allowed for one trunk or box ; children between 
2 and 14 years of age pay half-price. A tariff of fares is (or should be) hung in 
each carriage, but the drivers frequently attempt to extort undue sums from their 
passengers. In such cases, since the liackmen of New York are the most ruf¬ 
fianly of their class in the world, an instant appeal should be made to the first 
policeman who may be seen. 

Omnibuses (called “stages”) run (1) from Fulton Ferry, by Broadway, 
University Place, 13th, and 5th Ave., to 42d St., returning over the same route ; 
(2) from South Ferry, by Broadway, 23d, and 9th Ave., to 30th St., returning the 
same way ; (3) from South Ferry, by Broadway and 4th Ave., to 32d St. ; (4) from 
South Ferry, by Broadway and 14th St. to Avenue A. ; (5) from South Ferry, by 
Broadway, to the Erie R. R. ferry on 23d St. ; (6) from Wall St. Ferry, by Wall, 
Broadway, 23d, and Madison Ave., to 40th St. ; (7) from Jersey City Ferry (Cort- 
landt St.) by Broadway, Bleecker St., Bowery, and 2d. St, to Houston St. Ferry. 
The fare on these lines is 10 c. 

Horse-Cars. — The fare on most of the lines is 5 c. (1) Park Place to 
Central Park, by Church and Greene Sts. and 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House (Vesey 
St.) to Central Park, by West Broadway, Variclc St., and 6th Ave. ; (3) Astor 
House to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (4) Astor House to 
Grand Central Depot and Harlem, by Park Row, Chatham St., Bowery, and 3d 
Ave. ; (5) Astor House to Hunter’s Point Ferry, by Park Row, Centre, Grand, 
Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d and 34th Sts. ; (6) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by 
Chatham St., East Broadway, Avenues B. and A., and 1st. Ave. ; (7) Astor 
House to 86th St., by Centre, Bowery, 4th and Madison Aves. ; (8) corner 

Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by Varick St. and 6tli Ave. ; (9) corner 

Broadway and Canal St. to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (10) 
corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, East Broadway, Avenues B. 
and A. ; (11) corner Broadway and Broome to Central Park, by 7th Ave. ; (12) 
corner Broadway and Fulton to 54th St., by Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. ; (13) 
Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 2d Ave. ; (14) South 
Ferry to Central Park, by West St. and 10th Ave. ; (15) South Ferry to Central 
Park, by the East River Ferries, 1st Ave., and 59th St. ; (16) Fulton Ferry 
through Centre and Bleecker Sts. to 10th Ave. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to Des- 
brosses St. Ferry, by Grand and Vestry Sts. ; (18) Grand St. Ferry to Cortlandt 
St. Ferry; (19) Grand St. Ferry to 42d St. (Weehawken) Ferry; (20) corner 
Chambers and West Sts. to 42rl St. Depot. The Elevated. Railway runs from 

Morris St., on Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. to 30tli St. The track is supported 

by iron pillars ; the cars are drawn by small locomotives; and the stations are 
at Morris, Dey, Canal, and 12th Sts. 

Ferries. —To Astoria, from 92d St., and from Peck Slip; to Blackwell’s 
Island, from 26th St. ; to Brooklyn, from Whitehall, Wall, Fulton, Roosevelt, 
Catharine, Grand, Jackson, Houston, and James Sts. ; to Governor’s and Bedloe’s 
Islands, from Pier 43, N. R. ; to Greenpoint, from 10th and from 23d Sts. ; to 
Hunter’s Point, from James Slip and from 26tli St. ; to Randall’s Island, from 20th 
and from 122d Sts. ; to Wards Island, from 110th St. , to Jersey City, from 
Cortlandt, Desbrosses, Chambers, and' 23d Sts. ; to Hoboken, from Barclay and 
Christopher Sts. ; to Weehawken, from 42d St. ; to Staten Island, from White¬ 
hall St., and from Pier 19, N. R. 

Theatres. — The Grand Opera House (corner of 8th Ave. and 23d St.) is an 
elegant marble building, which is chiefly used for dramatic representations ; the 
* Academy of Music (99 E. 14th St.) is the favorite home of the opera ; Theatre 
Frangais (107 W. 14th St.), often used also for English opera, and for dress balls, 
i:i winter ; * Booth’s Theatre (corner of 6th Ave. and 23d St.), devoted to Shakes- 








































































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NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 327 


peare’s plays and others of high grade ; Niblo’s Garden (Broadway, near Prince 
St.) accommodates 2,000 persons ; Wallack’s (Broadway, corner of 13th St.) is a 
favorite resort for lovers of legitimate comedy; Fifth Avenue (728 and 730 
Broadway) and the Union Square (4th Ave. and 14th St.) are small but elegant 
and fashionable theatres ; the Olympic (624 Broadway), the Comique (514 Broad¬ 
way), and others, are devoted to varieties and comic scenes. Wood’s Museum 
(corner of Broadway and 30th St.) gives dramatic performances ; and sensational 
tragedies and spectacles are played in the Bowery Theatre (Bowery, near Canal 
St.). The Stadt Theatre (37 Bowery) is devoted to German plays and operas ; and 
Tony Pastor’s Opera House (201 Bowery) gives popular varieties and spectacles. 
Bryant’s Minstrels (115 W. 23d St.) give negro melodies, dances, &c. There are 
numerous well-arranged German beer-gardens in the city, where music and dan¬ 
cing are given. The Central Park Garden affords the best of orchestral music, and 
is a favorite summer evening resort of the up-town families. The Atlantic Garden 
(next to the Bowery Theatre) has fine music, but is chiefly visited by Germans. 
The cellar concert-saloons on Broadway and elsewhere should be avoided, for they 
are (for the most part) both disreputable and dangerous. Lectures and concerts 
are frequently given in Association, Cooper Institute, Apollo, and Irving Halls. 
Classic music, oratorios, and concerts are generally given in Steinway Hall (14th 
St., near Broadway). 

Railroads. — Across Staten Island to Tottenville, Pier 1, E. R. ; to Phila¬ 
delphia, by Trenton (90 M.) from foot of Cortlandt St. ; by S. Amboy (92 M.) ; to 
Easton, Pa., from foot of Liberty St. ; to Greenport, Long Island (foot of James 
St.); to Flushing ; to Hackettstown ; to Long Branch ; to Albany (144 M.), sta¬ 
tion corner of 30th St. and 10th Ave. ; to Albany (by the Harlem R. R.), from the 
42d St. station ; to New Haven and Boston, from the corner of 4th Ave. and 42d 
St. The Erie Railway (ferry) stations are at the foot of Chambers and of 23d St. 

Steamers. — Transatlantic lines — for Liverpool, the White Star and Cunard 
Lines, Piers at Jersey City ; Inman Line, Pier 45, N. R. ; U. S. Mail Line, Pier 
46 ; National Line, Piers 44 and 47, N. R. ; for Liverpool and Glasgow, Anchor 
Line, Pier 20, N. R. ; for London, Piers 44 and 47, and 3, N. R. ; for Havre, Pier 
50, N. R. ; for Hamburg and Bremen, Piers at Hoboken ; for Antwerp ; for the 
Mediterranean ports. West Indian lines — for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, Pier 
4, N. R. ; for Havana and Vera Cruz, Pier 17, E. R. ; for Hayti, Nassau, and the 
Bermudas. For St. Thomas and Brazil (monthly), Pier 43, N. R. ; for St. Domin¬ 
go and Samana Bay. For Panama and San Francisco (semi-monthly). Pier 42, N. 
R. The American coast — for Key West and Galveston (tri-monthly). Pier 20, E. 
R. ; for New Orleans (3 weekly steamers). Piers 9 and 12, N. R., and 20, E. R. ; 
for Fernandina, Pier 29, N. R. ; for Savannah (two weekly steamers), Piers 13 and 
36, N. R. ; for Charleston (thrice weekly), Piers 5 and 8, N. R. ; for Newbern (tri- 
monthly), Pier 16, E. R. ; for Norfolk and Richmond (tri-weekly). Pier 37, N. R. ; 
for Washington and Alexandria (semi-weekly), Pier 29, E. R. ; for Philadelphia 
(tri-weekly). Piers 33 and 34, E. R. ; for New Bedfprd (semi-weekly), Pier 13, E. 
R. ; for Boston (outside). Pier 11, N. R. ; for Portland (semi-Aveekly), Pier 38, E. R. 

Coastwise and river lines — to Yonkers, Tarrytown, West Point, Newburg, 
Poughkeepsie, Hudson, Albany, and Troy, from Pier 39, N. R. (morning boat), 
and from Pier 41, N. R. (evening boat) ; other river-steamers are at Piers 49, 35, 
34, 51, and 43 ; to Elizabethport and Kill Von Kull, from Pier 14, N. R. (thrice 

daily) ; to Staten Island (North Shore) hourly, from Pier 19, N. R.--— (South 

Shore), from Whitehall; to Elizabethport and Perth Aml>oy, from Pier 26 ; to 
Long Branch, from Pier 35 ; to Sandy Hook, from Pier 28 ; to Newark, from Pier 
26 ; to S. Amboy, from Pier 1, N. R. ; to Astoria and Harlem, 12 times daily, from 
Pier 24, E. R. (Peck Slip) ; to Bay Ridge, from Pier 15, E. R., 6 times daily; to 
Great Neck, Glen Cove, Roslyn, and Whitestone, from Pier 24, E. R. ; to College 
Point and Flushing, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Huntington and Oyster Bay, from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; to Greenport and Orient, from Pier 4, N. R. ; to High Bridge and 
Kingsbridge, from Harlem Bridge ; to Morrisania, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Sag 
Harbor, from Pier 4, N. R. Steamers leave for Greenwich and Stamford from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; for Norwalk, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for Bridgeport, from Pier 35, 
E. R. : for Stratford and Milford, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for New Haven, from Pier 
25, E. R. (afternoon and evening); for Hartford and the Conn. River ports, from 
Pier 24, E. R ; for New London (and Boston), from Pier 40, N. R. ; for Stonmg- 
ton (and Boston), from Pier 33, N. R. ; for Newport, Fall River (and Boston), 
from Pier 28, N. R. ; for Providence, from Pier 27, N. R. 



328 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


New York City, the commercial metropolis of the United States and 
the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situated on Manhattan 
Island, at the mouth of the Hudson River, in latitude 40° 42' 43" N., 
and longitude 8° 1' 13" E. from Washington. The population of the city 
in 1870 was 926,341. The island is 13J M. long, and 1-2 M. wide (con¬ 
taining 22 square M.), and is bounded on. the W. by the Hudson River, 
on the E. by the East River, on the N. by Harlem River and Spuyten 
Duyvil Creek, while its S. end looks out on the Bay of New York. The 
lower part of the island consists of alluvial deposits, but low, rocky ridges 
are found in the central part, which ascend to the cliffs of Washington 
Heights on the N. The city extends for 5 - 6 M. N. from the Battery, 
and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with villas, 
public and charitable buildings, and market-gardens. The grand avenue 
called Broadway runs from the lower end of the island to the Central 
Park, beyond which the broad and costly Boulevard conducts to the N. 
end. The city is laid out somewhat irregularly from the Battery to 14th 
St. (2jj M.), but beyond that line a succession of straight, parallel streets 
extend from river to river, and are crossed at right angles by broad ave¬ 
nues running lengthwise of the island. The Bay of New York is one of 
the most picturesque in the world, and affords a safe anchorage for the 
largest commercial fleets and the great vessels of the European steamship¬ 
lines. . The inner harbor is entered through a deep strait called the Nar¬ 
rows, which is defended by the most powerful and imposing fortifications 
and armaments in the Western world. 

The site of New York was discovered by the Florentine mariner, Verrazzani, in 
the year 1524. The harbor was again visited by Hendrick Hudson, commanding 
a vessel of the Dutch East India Company (Sept. 3, 1609), and from the scene of 
wassail and merriment which followed the meeting of the sailors and the natives, 
the Indians named the island Manhattan (“the place where they all got drunk”). 
Hudson then ascended the river since named in his honor to the site of Albany, 
and claimed the land, by right of discovery, as an appanage of Holland, under 
the name of the New Netherlands. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over, and built 
4 houses and a fort (near the present Bowling Green), naming the place New Am¬ 
sterdam, in honor of that city which had taken the foremost part in the enter¬ 
prise. In 1664, Peter Stuyvesant being Captain-General and the place having 
about 1,800 inhabitants, King Charles II. of England granted all the land from the 
Connecticut to the Delaware River to his brother, the Duke of York, and an 
English fleet under Capt. Nichols captured New Amsterdam and named it New 
York. A Dutch fleet retook the place in 1673 (the population being about 2,500), 
but it was soon restored to England by treaty. Gov. Sir Edmund Andros was 
ousted by the people (a few years later), and Jacob Leisler took his place, and 
ruled amid the trials and terrors of bitter political struggles and sanguinary in¬ 
vasions from Canada. In 1700 the city had about 6,000 inhabitants ; in 1702 the 
first free grammar school was opened ; in 1711 a slave-market was opened in Wall 
St. ; in 1725 the New York Gazette was established ; and in 1732 a classical academy 
was founded. The commerce of the city increased' rapidly, and its merchants 
took a bold and decided stand against the unjust aggressions of Parliament. The 
American army under Washington occupied the city in 1776, but the British troops 
who had abandoned Boston landed on Long Island, and after a severe battle near 
Brooklyn, Washington was forced to retreat. Other actions at White Plains and 
King’s Bridge resulted in great damage to the Americans, and New York was left 
in the hands of the British, who occupied it for seven years. Part of the city was 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 329 


burnt, part of it was turned into barracks, hospitals, and prisons, and thousands 
of Americans were confined on floating hulks in the East River. Nov. 25, 1783, 
the British left, and Washington and the Governor of the State entered in triumph. 
The first Federal Congress met here, and here, in 1789, Washington was inaugu¬ 
rated President (the city then having 33,000 inhabitants ; in 1800 it had 60,489). 
The first steamer was put on the Hudson in 1807, and the Erie Canal was com¬ 
pleted in 1825, amid splendid celebrations in the city and State. Gas was intro¬ 
duced in 1825 ; in 1832 the Asiatic cholera carried off 4,360 persons ; in 1835 a 
great fire destroyed $ 20,000,000 worth of property ; and in 1837 the great financial 
crisis ruined thousands. The Croton Aqueduct was completed in 1842, and a 
fire in 1845 caused a loss of $ 7,000,000. The city has grown rapidly since the in¬ 
troduction of the railway system, and the most remote parts of the States are 
reached by its immense lines of track. Scores of ocean-steamers and fleets of 
packet-ships bring in the products of all other continents, and bear away full 
cargoes of Western grain, or the manufactures of the Middle and Eastern States. 
In 1820 New York had 123,706 inhabitants ; in 1840, 312,710 ; in I860, 813.669 ; 
and in 1870, 926,341. There are but two larger cities (London and Paris) in Chris¬ 
tendom, and if the population of the close-lying suburbs of Brooklyn, Williams¬ 
burg, and Jersey City were added to that of New York, it would be the sixth city 
in the world. 

The Battery is a park at the S. end of Manhattan Island, containing 
l(hj acres, and adorned with large trees and verdant lawns. The water¬ 
front is secured by a sea-wall of massive masonry, above which is a broad 
promenade which affords admirable * views of the Bay. The populous 
heights of Brooklyn are in the E., with Governor’s Island nearer at hand, 
on which the high walls of Castle William are seen, with the embank¬ 
ments of the less imposing but more powerful Fort Columbus, a star-fort 
mounting 120 heavy cannon. Ellis and Bedloe’s Islands are seen farther 
down the harbor, with the long hill-ranges of Staten Island beyond, and 
Jersey City on the W. The curious round structure on the Battery was 
built for a fort (“ Castle Clinton ”) in 1807, was ceded to the city in 1823, 
and was the scene of the civic receptions of the Marquis Lafayette, Gen. 
Jackson, President Tyler, and others. It then became an opera-house, 
where Jenny Lind, Sontag, Parodi, Jullien, Mario, &c., made their appear¬ 
ance. The building is now used as a depot for immigrants, who are here 
received from their ships, and from which they are sent to their desti¬ 
nations. From Whitehall, on the E. of the Battery, the Staten-Island, 
South, and Hamilton (Brooklyn) ferry-boats start, besides several horse- 
car and stage lines. Boatmen may be engaged here for trips in the harbor. 
From this point South St. follows the East River shore for over 2 M., 
passing the ferries to the Long Island cities, and the piers at which lie 
hundreds of stately packet and clipper ships, and humbler coasting-craft. 
Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, is just N. of the Battery. Near 
by, Fort Amsterdam was built in 1635, and in 1770 an equestrian statue 
of King George III. (of gilded lead) was set up on the Green. In 1776 the 
statue was overthrown by the people, and taken to Litchfield, Conn., 
where it was melted into (42,000) bullets. West St. runs N. along the 
Hudson River shore for over 2 M. from the Battery, passing the piers of 
hundreds of steamers and the ferries to the New Jersey shore. The house 


330 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


No. 1 Broadway was built in 1760, and has served as the head quarters of 
Lord Howe, Gen. Clinton, Lord Cornwallis, and Gen. Washington. Tal¬ 
leyrand once lived in this house, and Fulton died alongside it. Benedict * 
Arnold lived at No. 5 Broadway, and Gen. Gage had his head quarters at 
No. 11. A short distance above the Green is * Trinity Church, a noble 
Gothic building of brown-stone, with a spire 284 ft. high. The interior is 
192 ft. long and 60 ft. high, with a deep chancel lighted by a superb 
window, and with massive columns separating the nave from the aisles. I 
The church is open all The week, and the ascent" of the spire (308 steps ; J 
small fee to the sexton) should be made for the sake of the * view from 
the top. To the S. is the noble harbor with its fleets and fortified islands 
and the fair villages of Staten Island in the distance; to the W., across the 
Hudson, are Jersey City, Newark, Bergen, and Elizabeth; and up-river < 
from Jersey City are Hoboken and Weehawken, with the Palisades and | 
the distant blue Highlands in the N. The thronged and brilliant Broad- 
way runs N. E. for 2 M. to Grace Church, and the great mass of the city 
is seen on either hand ; while the course of East River may be followed s 
from above Blackwell’s Island by Flushing, Astoria, and Greenpoint, to 
Brooklyn and Greenwood. Directly below is the crowded Wall St., along j 
whose line ran the walls of New Amsterdam. There is a large and ven- j 
erable graveyard about the church, in which are buried Alexander 
Hamilton, Capt. Lawrence (of the Chesapeake), and other noted men, \ 
while in one corner is a stately Gothic monument to the patriots who died 
in the British prison-ships. Trinity Society is the oldest in New York, 
and the first edifice on the present site was built in 1696. In 1705 Queen 
Anne gave it a fine communion service (still preserved), and also a large 
tract of land on Manhattan Island, which has since so increased in value 
that this church is the richest in America (said to be worth over $ 10,000, 
000), and spends immense sums annually in benefactions among the poor 
of New York, besides supporting a considerable body of clergy and a choir 
which is unsurpassed in the country. There are morning and evening 
prayers daily in the church (9 a. m. and 3 p. m. ), with imposing choral ' 
services on Sunday. The chime of bells in the steeple is the finest in 
America. 

Wall St. runs E. from Trinity Church, and is the resort of bankers and 
brokers, and the financial centre of the republic. At No. 13 the visitors, j 
gallery of the Stock Exchange may be entered, and at about noon affords 
an exciting view of the busy whirl below. The stately U. S. Sub- 
Treasury is on the comer of Wall and Nassau, on the site of the hall in 
which Washington was inaugurated first President of the U. S. (1789). It | 
is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon at Athens, with Doric colon- j 
nades and classic pediment, and a lofty interior rotunda, supported by 
16 elegant Corinthian columns. It is of Massachusetts marble (with 






NEW YOKE CITY. 


Route 51. 331 


: granite roof), and took 8 years in building, costing $ 2,000,000. (Visitors' 
admitted, 10-3 o’clock.) Broad St., the home of speculators and brokers, 

I leads off to the S. from the Treasury, while running N. is the busy Nassau 
St., on which (two squares distant) is a quaint old edifice, which was 
built, 1723 - 6, for the Middle Dutch Church, and was used during the 
Revolution as a prison for Americans, and a riding-school for British 
cavalrymen. It was used as a church again from 1784 until 1844, when it 
was bought, and has since been used for a post-office. Near the Treasury 
are the great banking-houses of Henry Clews & Co., Fisk & Hatch, Jay 
Cooke & Co., Duncan & Sherman, &c., while opposite the Treasury is 
! the superb Drexel building (built in the Renaissance style at a cost of 
$ 700,000). Still farther down Wall St. is the TJ. S. Custom House, a 
massive building of granite, marble, and iron, originally built for a 
Merchants’ Exchange, at a cost of $1,800,000. It is 200 ft. long, and has 
a portico of 18 Ionic columns, while a dome 124 ft. high overarches a 
rotunda surrounded by 8 rich Corinthian columns of Italian marble, and 
capable of containing 3,000 persons. The elegant Bank of New York is 
opposite the Custom House, and just below is Pearl St., the scene of a 
heavy wholesale trade in cotton and other staples. A ferry runs from the 
foot of Wall St. to Montague St., Brooklyn. Returning to Broadway, the 
immense buildings of the Bank of the Republic, the Metropolitan Bank, 
the Equitable Life Ins. Co. (137 ft. high), and others are passed. Fulton 
St. turns off to the r. at the busiest part of Broadway, and leads to Fulton 
Ferry, passing the old North Dutch Church, and the Fulton Market. 
St. Paul's Church (Epis.), on the 1. of Broadway, was built in 1766, and 
has a statue of St. Paul on its pediment, with a mural tablet in the front 
wall over the remains of Gen. Montgomery. Opposite the church is tire 
floridly ornamented Park Bank and the extensive and elegant Herald 
Building, standing on the site of Barnum’s Museum (which was burnt in 
1865). The long and simple granite front of the Astor House comes next, 
on Broadway (on the 1.), with Vesey St. diverging to the 1. and leading to 
the great Washington Market, with its rude and unsightly sheds filled 
with a rare display of the fruits and vegetables, meats and fish, of the 
adjacent districts. Park Row stretches off obliquely to the r. from the 
Astor House to Printing House Square, with its bronze statue of Franklin. 
This vicinity is one of the great intellectual centres of America, and here 
are seen the offices of the Herald, Times, Tribune, World, Sim, Telegram, 
News, Express, Day Book, Evening Mail, Journal, Stoats Zeitung (all 
daily papers, besides a shoal of weeklies.) The Christian Union, Inde¬ 
pendent, Nation , and other able papers, are published in Park Place. By 
turning from Printing House Square down Frankfort St., Franklin Square 
is reached, with the vast and imposing publishing house of the Harpers. 
Chatham St., the prolongation of Park Row, is the home of Jew trades- 





332 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


men, mock auctions, and old-clothes shops. At the S. end of the City 
Hall Park, and opposite the Astor House, is the new * U. S. Post-Office, 
a stately and immense granite building, with lofty Louvre domes and a 
frontage (on Broadway) of 340 ft. The architecture is Doric and Renais- j 
sance, the granite columns and blocks being cut and carved ready for their 
places (by 600 men) at Dix Island, on the coast of Maine, and the building j 
is absolutely incombustible. The basement and first floor will be reserved 1 
for the Post-Office, the second and third floor for the U. S. Courts, and 12 
elevators will keep up communications. The City Hall is N. of the Post- 
Office, and is a fine building of Massachusetts marble, 216 ft. long and 
105 ft. broad, with Ionic, Corinthian, and composite pilasters lining its 
front. It is surmounted by a fine clock-tower, which is illuminated at 
night. The City Hall was nine years in building, and cost $ 700,000. N. 
of this edifice is the new Court House, a massive and magnificent marble 
building, in Corinthian architecture, 250 ft. long, and completely fire¬ 
proof. It was commenced in 1861, the expense being estimated at 
$ 800,000, but the infamous Tammany Ring having gained control in the 
city, $5-6,000,000 was (nominally) spent on the Court House. The 
elegant Corinthian portico on Chambers St., the lofty and graceful dome, 
and other details of the plan, have not yet been completed. Opposite the 
Court House is the great marble building devoted to A. T. Stewart’s 
wholesale trade (shawls, silks, and dry goods), standing on the site of a 
British fort of 1776 - 83. Passing up Broadway, with immense and costly I 
buildings on either side, and similarly lined streets running off to r. and 1., 
the brilliant windows, the throngs on the sidewalks, and the roar of the 
street cause constant surprise. On the r. is the “ Bloody Sixth ” Ward 
(bounded by Broadway, Canal, Bowery, and Chatham Sts.), with its dense j 
and dangerous, population, its filth, poverty, and crime. By turning ! 
down Leonard St. (to the r.) the city prison, called the Tombs, is reached. 

It is built massively in the gloomiest and heaviest form of Egyptian 
architecture, and is usually well filled, while in the interior of the quad¬ 
rangle is the place of executions. A short distance beyond, at the inter¬ 
section of Baxter, Park, and Worth Sts., is the Five Points, formerly the 
most terrible locality in the city and republic, but now somewhat im¬ 
proved by the aggressions of religious missions. In this vicinity are the 
crowded and reeking tenements, the narrow and filthy alleys, the unspeak- j 
able corruption and utter depravity of the slums of the Empire City. It 
is well to be accompanied by a policeman during a visit to this district, 
both to insure personal safety and to learn minute details. 

Advancing up Broadway, Walker St. is seen on the 1., leading to the 
Hudson River R. R. Depot, whose Hudson St. front is surmounted by 
the largest bronze groups in the world (emblematic of Vanderbilt’s career). 
The ancient Chapel of St. John fronts the depot, which was built on St. 





NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51, 333 




John’s Park. Passing now the superb white marble N. Y. Life Ins. 
Building (Ionic architecture) and the Brandreth House, the wide Canal 
St. is crossed. Lord and Taylor’s vast wholesale store, the St. Nicholas 
Hotel, Appleton’s bookstore, and Ball, Black & Co’s, jewelry store are 
passed on the 1., with the Prescott and Metropolitan Hotels on the r. A 
little way beyond the Grand Central Hotel (on the L), a side street leads 
W. to Washington Square, laid out on the old Potter’s Field, where over 
100,000 bodies are buried in trenches. On one side of the Square is the 
New York University (founded in 1831), a fine marble building 200 ft. 
long, in English collegiate architecture, with a large Gothic window light¬ 
ing the chapel. Above the Grand Central Hotel, Astor Place leads off 
obliquely to the r. to the Mercantile Library (95-100,000 volumes) in 
the old Astor Place Opera House. Close by, on the S., in Lafayette 
Place, is the Astor Library (open 9-5 daily), in two lofty halls in a 
large Romanesque building. The library was endowed with $ 400,000 by 
John Jacob Astor, and has over 100,000 volumes, besides rare old books 
and considerable departments in the European languages. The Bible 
House (at the end of Astor Place) is an immense structure, six stories 
high, covering f of an acre, with 700 ft. frontage, and containing 600 oper¬ 
atives. It cost $ 300,000, and is the property of the American Bible So¬ 
ciety, and besides the vast numbers of Bibles issued from its presses, there 
are 13 religious and philanthropic papers published in the building. Since 
1817 this society has put in circulation 9,000,000 Bibles and Testaments, 
in 24 languages. Opposite the Bible House is the Cooper Institute, a 
brown-stone building occupying an entire square, which was founded and 
endowed by Peter Cooper, of New York. It has a great library and read¬ 
ing-room, with courses of lectures and special studies, nearly all of which 
are free to the people. Stuyvesant Place leads N. E. from the Institute, 
passing St. Mark's Church (Epis.), which has the tombs of the Dutch Cap¬ 
tain-General Stuyvesant (died 1682), the British Governor Sloughter, and 
the American Governor Tompkins. At the end of the Place is the ele¬ 
gant yellow sandstone building of the N. Y. Historical Society, with a 
rich historical library of 20,000 volumes, collections of antiquities, a pic¬ 
ture gallery, and museums of Nineveh marbles and Egyptian curiosities. 
Cole’s “ Course of Empire ” paintings are in this art gallery. 

On Broadway, corner of 10th St., is Stewart’s vast dry-goods store, 
with 15 acres of flooring, said to be the largest store in the world. Grace 
Church and Rectory are now seen on the r., costly and elegant buildings 
of marble, in the most florid Gothic architecture. The lofty and graceful 
spire is much admired, and the interior of the church, with 40 stained 
windows, light columns and arches and carvings, has a theatrical splendor. 
At this point Broadway bends to the 1., and soon reaches Union Square, 
a pleasant oval park, with green lawns and shrubbery, and a large popu- 


334 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


latiou of English sparrows. On the E. is a colossal equestrian statue of 
Washington, which is much admired, and on the W. is a bronze statue of 
Lincoln. The Square is lined with fine hotels and stores, although it was 
formerly the most aristocratic part of the city. University Place runs S. 
from Union Square, passing the N. Y. Society Library (near 12th St. ; 
founded 1700 ; 38,000 volumes) and the Union Theological Seminary (near 
8th St. ; with 6 professors and 100 students), to the N. Y. University. 
14th St. runs E. by the elegant Steinway Hall, the Academy of Music, 
Grace Church Chapel, and Tammany Hall. 

4th Avenue runs N. from Union Square. To the r., down 16th St., is 
Stuyvesant Square and St. George’s Church (Epis.), a large and elegant 
edifice of brown-stone, in Romanesque architecture, with a richly frescoed 
ceiling 100 ft. above the floor, a spacious chancel, twin spires (245 ft. 
high), and a fine rectory (the home of S. H. Tyng, D. D.). Farther up 
4th Ave. (corner of 20th St.) is the Church of All Souls (Dr. Bellows ; 
Unitarian), a curious structure in Italian architecture, with alternate 
courses of brick and light-colored stone. On the next corner is the Cal¬ 
vary Church (Epis.), a Gothic building of brown-stone, and near by is St. 
Paul’s Church (Meth.), of white marble, in Romanesque architecture. 
On the corner of 4tli Ave. and 23d St. is the Young Men's Christian Asso¬ 
ciation building, a large and costly structure of brown and Ohio stone, in 
the Renaissance architecture, and including a fine library,.reading-rooms, 
parlors, a gymnasium, and a public hall. Strangers will meet a kindly 
welcome here. Opposite the Y. M. C. A. is the elegant * National 
Academy of Design, built of gray and white marbles and blue-stone, in 
the purer Gothic forms of the 12th century, with certain features copied 
from the best Venetian architecture. It has an imposing entrance and 
stairway, with extensive galleries, in which every spring and summer are 
held exhibitions of hundreds of the recent works of the best of living 
American artists (admission 25c.). On the lower floor is the Suydam col¬ 
lection (on permanent deposit), which includes 92 pictures by eminent 
French and American artists, with a few works of the old Italian masters. 
E. of the Academy (on 23d St.) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and 
Surgeons, the Demilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col¬ 
lege of the City of New York (corner of Lexington Ave.). Passing W. 
along 23d St., Madison Square is soon reached (3 M. from the Battery), 
a bright and fashion-favored park of six acres, surrounded by palatial 
hotels (5tli Ave., Hoffman, St. James, &c.), and adorned by a monument 
to Gen. Worth. 23d St. runs thence W. to the Hudson River, passing 
Booth's Theatre (corner of 6th Ave.), with the new and imposing Masonic 
Hall on the opposite corner, and the great marble Opera House on the 
corner of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. down 9th Ave. to 20th 
St., the stone buildings of the richly endowed and flourishing General 




NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 335 


Theological Seminary (Epis.) may be seen. Broadway runs N. from 
Madison Square for nearly 2 M. to tlie Central Park, crossing the num¬ 
bered streets obliquely, and passing the sumptuous Stevens House ( hotel 
garni, corner of 6th Ave.), Wood’s Museum (near 30th St.), the Congre¬ 
gational Tabernacle (corner of 34tli St.), the Armory of the 37th Regi¬ 
ment (corner of 6th Ave.), and long lines of fine buildings and stores. 
Fifth Avenue begins on the S. at Washington Square, and passes the Col¬ 
lege of St. Francis Xavier (Jesuit ; corner of 15th St. and opposite the 
Manhattan and the New York Club Houses), Belmont’s palace (corner of 
18th St.), Dr. Hall’s Church (Pres. ; corner of 19th St.), the Church of 
the Holy Communion (Epis. ; cruciform Gothic, of brown-stone, with 
free seats ; corner of 20th St. and 6th Ave.), and the Union Club House 
(built of brown-stone at a cost of $300,000 ; corner of 22d St.). The 
avenue now passes the line of superb hotels on the W. side of Madison 
Square, and crosses Broadway diagonally. The route from Madison 
Square to the Central Park by this avenue leads through the most aristo¬ 
cratic and splendid street in America, — forming a scene of unexampled 
brilliancy and beauty, especially on pleasant Sundays after morning ser¬ 
vice and late in the afternoon. Just off the avenue on 25th St. is Trinity 
Chapel, an elegant edifice lined with Caen stone, frescoed, with richly 
stained windows, and famous for its choral services. St. Stephen's Church 
(Cath.), which has the most elegant altar in America, may be seen down 
28th St., which leads off to the E. to Bellevue Hospital and the Morgue. 
On 29th St., near the avenue, is the quaint and irregular Church of the 
Transfiguration, much affected for fashionable weddings and familiarly 
known as “ the little church around the corner.” On the corner of 33d 
St. is W. B. Astor’s mansion, while on the corner of 34th St. is the superb 
marble palace of A. T. Stewart, which cost $ 2,000,000, and has a famous 
picture-gallery. 

34th St. leads W. to the Hudson, passing the turreted and embattled 
buildings of the N. Y. Institution for the Blind. On the E. it conducts 
to Park Ave., on high ground, which is underlaid by the 4th Ave. R. 
R. passing through a tunnel over which are well-arranged parks. The 
Unitarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Avenue, and is adjoined 
by the spacious Church of the Covenant (Pres.), built of gray-stone in 
Lombardo-Gothic arcitecture. In this vicinity (corner of 4th Ave. and 
32d St.) is a vast and elegant iron building, erected by A. T. Stewart for 
a home for working-women. 

On the comer of 5th Ave. and 35th St. is the costly and ultra-ritualistic 
Christ Church (Epis.), with its renowned artistic music and its elaborate 
frescoes, while the plainer Brick Church (Pres.) is on the 37th St. corner. 
On 5th Ave., from 40th to 42d Sts., is the Distributing Reservoir of the 
Croton Aqueduct, massively built of granite in Egyptian architecture, 44 


336 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


ft. high, 420 ft. square, with an area of 4 acres and a capacity of 23,000,000 
gallons. The broad promenade on top is open to the public, and com¬ 
mands extensive and pleasing views. Reservoir Square is a pretty park 
on the W., while the (French Catholic) College of St. Louis is farther 
down on 42d St. Opposite the Reservoir (on 5th Ave.) is the feudal-look¬ 
ing building of Rutgers Female College. Two squares to the E. on 42d 
St. is the Grand Central Depot, the converging point of several railways. 
It is an enormous structure of brick and stone, covering 3 acres, and 700 
ft. long, built in Renaissance architecture, with several lofty Louvre 
domes. On the corner of 5th Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewish Temple 
Emanuel, the chief of the 27 synagogues of the city, and the finest piece 
of Saracenic architecture in America. It has some features, copied from 
the ancient Alhambra, and its interior is a dazzling picture of Oriental 
magnificence. On the corner of 45th St.* is the 4th Universalist Church 
(Dr. Chapin’s), near which is the curious front of the Episcopal Church 
of the Heavenly Rest. On 49th St., near the avenue, are the buildings 
of Columbia College, a venerable and wealthy institution, which was 
chartered (as King’s College) by George II. of England in 1754. At the 
corner of 50th St. is the Cathedral of St. Patrick (Cath.), which is to be 
the grandest church in America. It was commenced in 1858, and is now 
nearly half done ; the building occupying the highest point on 5th Ave., 
and being firmly founded on solid ledges of rock. The material is white 
marble, and the architecture is the decorated Gothic of the 13th century. 
The front is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 ft. high, and 
adorned with statuary and rich carvings, while the interior columns are 
of marble, supporting a high and ornate clere-story. The lofty and ele¬ 
gant front entrance (now completed) is worthy of close inspection. N. of 
the cathedral is the Catholic Orphan Asylum. The spacious Church of 
St. Thomas (Epis.) is just above (on the 1.), near which is St. Luke’s Hos¬ 
pital. At 59th St. is the Scholars’ Gate to the 

Central Park. 

In 1856 the present site of the Park was a dreary and desolate region of swamps 
and ledges, dotted here and there with heaps of rubbish and the shanties of a 
rude and degraded people. In that year the work began which has since given 
New York the most beautiful, and one of the largest of the parks of the world, — 
a work which up to the close of 1864 alone had cost $9,200,000. The park is a 
parallelogram, 2£ M. long and J M. wide, being 5 M. N. of the Battery, and nearly 
1 M. from the rivers on either side. It includes 863 acres, of which 185 are of 
water, 15 M. of carriage-roads, 8 M. of bridle-paths, and 25 M. of walks, while 
communication across the island is confined to four sunken roads w T hich pass from 
E. to W. across the park and under its drive-ways. Park carriages are in wait¬ 
ing at the lower gates, and carry visitors all through the grounds, for a small sum. 
There are brilliant skating-carnivals on the frozen ponds during winter, and on 
summer afternoons (especially Sundays) the promenades and driveways are 
thronged. The park may be reached by either of several horse-car lines from the 
Astor House and the lower part of the city. 

Near the Scholar’s Gate (5th Ave.) is the old State Arsenal, a massive 



CENTRAL EARK. 


1. Old Animal and .Museum 

2. Marhle Arch.. 

5. Statues of Scott & Shcd'rsycare 

4. Casino. 

5. . Music Padlion 

6. Terrace . 

7. Boa Bridge. 

8. Balcony " 

9. The Knoll. 

10. The Great Hill 
11 Old Forts. 

12. The Pool. 

15. The Cascade 

14. Scholars Gale. 

15. Artists' ” 

10. Artisans ’ " 

17. Merchants' ” 

18. Womens' ■> 
v 19. Hunters' " 

20. Manners " . 

21 Cate oj All Saints. 

22. Boys' Gate. 

23. Children's » . 

24. Miners' ” . 

25. Strangers' n 

26. " . 

27. Girls 

28. Fanners' * 

29. Warriors' ” . 

50. Lenex library. 









































































































































































' 














. 


■ 














NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 337 


castellated building now used for the officers of the park and for an Art 
Gallery, in which are 87 casts from the statuary works of Crawford, together 
with other curiosities. A considerable number of rare wild animals and 
beautiful birds are kept in cages near the building, and form the nucleus 
of a Zoological Garden. Near the Scholar’s Gate is a large bronze bust of 
Humboldt, beyond which is the Pond (4J acres), an irregular sheet of 
water much favored by skaters in winter. From this gate, winding paths 
and drives conduct, by graceful curves and passing picturesque knolls and 
groves, bridges and arbors, to The Mall, the chief promenade and orna¬ 
ment of the park. At the entrance of this noble esplanade are fine bronze 
! statues of William Shakespeare and Sir Walter Scott, and other groups 
and statues are seen at various points. The Mall is 1212 ft. long and 208 
ft. wide, and is bordered by double lines of tall trees. At the Music 
Pavilion, near the upper end, fine band-concerts are given on pleasant 
Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, and at such times the vicinity is 
filled with a gay and varied crowd. The Mall is terminated by The 
* Terrace, a sumptuous pile of architecture, with frescoed arcades and 
corridors, broad promenades, costly and elaborate balustrades, and high 
pedestals which are to be graced with symbolic statuary. Broad stone 
stairways lead down to the esplanade by the lake-side, on which is erected 
the most elegant fountain on the continent, with bronzes and rare marbles 
representing the Angel of Bethesda. A large flotilla of pleasure-boats 
is kept on the Central Lake (20 acres), and pleasant excursions may 
be made with little expense (tariffs regulated by the commissioners). On 
the W. of the Mall is the Green, a broad lawn covering 15 acres, and 
destined fora parade-ground. Near the head of the Mall (on the r.) is the 
Casino, a neat refectory on a high knoll. Crossing Central Lake by the 
graceful Bow Bridge, The Ramble is entered, — 36 acres of copse and 
thicket and craggy hill, bounded by the lake and threaded by a labyrinth 
of romantic foot-paths. The Vine-covered and Evergreen Walks, the 
Stone Arch, the Grotto, and other pretty objects are found in the Ramble. 
On Vista Hill (to the N.) is the Croton Reservoir , which covers 31 acres, 
is 105 ft. above tide-water, and contains 150,000,000 gallons of water. 
There are broad and far-viewing promenades on its walls of massive 
masonry. Just to the N. is the New Reservoir , covering 106 acres and 
having a capacity of 1,000,000,000 gallons. The graceful curves of its 
shore-line are bounded by lofty stone walls of immense thickness, and 
ornamental gate-houses stand at its N. and S. ends. Just S. W. of the 
rectangular (smaller) reservoir is the Belvidere, situated on high ground 
overlooking the park. Above the New Reservoir is the Upper Park, less 
visited and with less artificial embellishment then the Lower Park, but 
with more marked natural beauties. Passing the East and West Meadows 
the buildings of Mount St. Vincent are seen on the E., where a pleasant 
15 . v 



338 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


refectory has been installed in the place formerly occupied by a Catholic 
Seminary. To the E. is the Arboretum, while close by, on the N., is 
Harlem Lake (covering 16 acres), with its bold S. shore lined with the 
remains of ancient fortifications. A pretty falling stream, spanned by 
five bridges, runs W. from the lake to a picturesque pond S. of the far- 
viewing Great Hill, which looks down into the ravine known in the 
Revolutionary era as McGown’s Pass. The Bluff is a bold cliff which 
terminates the park on the N., and bears the remains of old forts and 
fieldworks. 

Fronting on the park near the Children’s Gate (72d St. and 5th Ave.), 
is the Lenox Library, a stately marble building, costing $ 500,000, and 
designed for the reception of a museum, art-gallery, library, and lecture- 
hall. Close by is the Lenox Hospital (Presbyterian), a quaint and ornate 
brick and stone structure, with tall and slender spires. - A few rods dis¬ 
tant (on the old Hamilton Square; and built at a cost of $ 300,000) is the 
spacious and imposing new building of the Normal College, in the secular 
Gothic style, with a lofty and massive Victoria tower. The Foundling 
Hospital is still farther E., and in plain sight is the Mount Sinai 
Hospital, a cluster of stately buildings in Elizabethan architecture, erected 
at a cost of $ 340,000. The vast German park and beer-garden called 
Jones's Wood, is still farther E. at the river-side, and looks across on 
Blackwell’s Island. 

From the point where Broadway reaches the park (corner of 8th Ave. 
and 59th St.) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a parked centre 
and graceful curves, runs N. to Manhattanville and Kings Bridge. This 
road passes (at 73d St.) the extensive stone building (Gothic) of the N. Y. 
Orphan Asylum, which looks down on the Hudson. The Leake and 
Watts Orphan House fronts on 110th St., and can accommodate 250 
children. Close by (on the E.)is the Morningside Park. At 115th St. 
is the Bloomingdale A sylum for the Insane, with spacious buildings in 
pleasant grounds. The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and 
rural villas, to the village of Manhattanville (130th St.), with the impos¬ 
ing buildings of the Convent of the Sacred Heart and of Manhattan 
College on the hill beyond. 

Environs of New York. 

The High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is 
1,450 ft. long, 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and is used to carry 
the Croton Aqueduct across Harlem River. It is built of granite, and 
cost $900,000. Near this point (11 M. from the City Hall) are the 
buildings of the Juvenile Asylum, while the elegant structure of the Insti¬ 
tution for the Deaf and Dumb is to the S. W. (near 165th St.). Just 
across Manhattan Island (which is narrow at this point) is Fort Washing- 


BROOKLYN. 


Route 51. 339 


ton, looking down on the Hudson in a succession of fine views. The 
High Bridge maybe reached by the lines of horse cars which traverse 2d 
and 3d Aves., but the steamers which leave Peck Slip (12-15 times 
daily) for Harlem afford a more pleasant route. These boats pass up the 
East River, by the immense municipal charitable and correctional build¬ 
ings on Blackwell's Island. The entire E. water-front of the city is passed, 
Astoria is visited, and, leaving the tumultuous Hell Gate passage on the r., 
the boat enters a narrower channel with Ward's Island on the r. On this 
island are seen the imposing and extensive buildings of the Inebriate 
Asylum, together with the Lunatic Asylum and the Emigrant Hospitals. 
Randall’s Island comes next (on the r.), with the House of Refuge and 
other civic eharities. The steamer stops at Harlem Bridge, whence the 
High Bridge may be reached by smaller boats or by road. 

Brooklyn, the third city of the Union (396,300 inhabitants), is joined 
to New York by several ferries across East River. The bridge which has 
been in process of construction for years, and which will connect the two 
cities, will be the most stupendous work of the kind in the world. The 
City Hall is 1 M. from the Fulton Ferry (corner of Court and Fulton Sts.) 
and is an elegant classic building of white marble, near which is the Kings 
County Court House, built of marble in Corinthian architecture, at a cost 
of $ 540,000. There are many other fine public buildings in the city, 
while the private mansions (on Clinton Avenue, Brooklyn Heights, &c.) are 
worthy of notice. The U. S. Navy Yard is of the first class, and covers 
40 acres, with large depots of materiel of war, ship-houses, barracks, &c., 
while the Dry Dock (which cost $1,000,000) is one of the best. Some 
fine vessels maybe seen here, including the old line-of-battle ship “ North 
Carolina.” The Marine Hospital (500 patients) is a fine granite building 
on the Wallabout Bay, where the British prison-ships were anchored 
dui'ing the Revolution, and where 11,500 patriot prisoners died. The 
Atlantic Dock fronts toward Governor’s Island, and its long granite piers 
and immense warehouses merit a visit. The principal churches of the 
city are the Catholic Cathedral, a superb structure (now building) on the 
corner of Lafayette and Vanderbilt Aves.; the Plymouth Church (Henry 
Ward Beecher) on Orange, near Hicks St.; the Church of the Pilgrims 
(Rev. R. S. Storrs, Jr.), corner of Henry and Remsen Sts.; and the 
Church of the Holy Trinity, corner of Clinton and Montague Sts. From 
the fact of its having 233 churches, Brooklyn has won and wears the 
name of “ The City of Churches. 

Prospect Park (reached by horse-cars on Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave.) 
is a noble rival of Central Park, covering 510 acres, and costing, since its 
commencement (in 1866), $9,000,000. The Plaza is a large, paved, circu¬ 
lar space at the entrance, with a statue of Lincoln, fountains, and flowers. 
There are broad and verdant meadows, large and umbrageous groves, 


340 Route 52. 


NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 


lulls commanding superb views of the Bay of New York, Staten Island, 
and the Highlands of the Hudson and the Neversink. There is a pictu¬ 
resque lake of 61 acres, and the romantic variety of the natural scenery of 
this park, together with its height and its fine distant views, render it 
the pride of Long Island. There are 8 M. of drives, 4 M. of rides, and a 
great number of rambles. 

Greenwood Cemetery is 3 M. from Fulton Ferry (horse-cars every 15 
minutes ; strangers not admitted on Sunday), and is the most beautiful 
cemetery in the world. It contains 242 acres of land, traversed by 20 M. 
of winding paths and driveways, and embellished with forests and lakes. 
Ocean Hill commands a view over the limitless sea, while Battle Hill 
overlooks New York and its Bay, Brooklyn, Jersey City, and the Hud¬ 
son. Many of the monuments are of much artistic merit, and the reve¬ 
nues of the cemetery are devoted to its adornment. 

To the E. of Brooklyn are the large cemeteries of “ The Evergreens ” 
and “ Cypress Hills,” beyond which are the quaint and pleasant old Long 
Island towns of Flushing and Jamaica. Still farther E. is Roslyn 
(steamer from Peck Slip), a sweet village on Hempstead Bay, near which 
is Cedarmere, the home of Bryant. Long Branch is 34 M. from New 
York (by steamer from Pier 28, N. R., to Sandy Hook, and thence by 
rail), and is the favorite seaside resort of the “upper ten.” It has a 
cluster of the most elegant and expensive summer-hotels on the coast, and 
has fine bathing and driving facilities. Coney Island is a favorite resort 
for the great mass of the citizens, and is quickly reached by boat from 
Pier 1, N. R., or by cars from Brooklyn. Excursions to the beautiful 
hills and vast fortifications on Staten Island ; to the cities of Jersey City, 
Elizabeth, and Newark ; and through Hell Gate to the island towns, will 
be found both pleasant and profitable. 


52. New York to Albany. —The Hudson River. 

The palatial steamers of the day line to Albany leave Pier 39, N. R. (foot of 
Vestry St.) at 8. 30 a. m. The night boats leave Pier 41 (foot of Canal St.) at 6 
p.m. The Hudson River Railroad station is on 30th St., near 9tli Ave. (trains to 
Albany, 144 M., in 5-5| hrs.); the Harlem Railroad station is on 42d St. 
(Grand Central Depot ; distance to Albany, 151 M.). The day steamers will 
be preferred by the tourist, on account of the panoramic views of the river- 
scenery thereby obtained, together with the immunity from the dust and heat of 
the cars. 

The Hudson River was named in honor of the Dutch mariner who first explored 
it, — ascending in the yacht “ Half-Moon ” as far as the Mohawk River. It has 
its rise in the Adirondack Mts., 4,000 ft. above the sea, and after the confluence 
of several branches at Fort Edward, takes a southerly course to the Bay of New 
York. Large steamers ascend to Troy, 150 M., and ships can go as far as Hudson, 
117 M. Vast quantities of lumber are floated down the stream, while squadrons 
of canal-boats are frequently passed, bearing coal from Pennsylvania (by the Dela¬ 
ware and Hudson Canal to Rondout) and grain from the West (by the Erie Canal 
to Albany). 









































I 


THE HUDSON RIVER. 


Route 52. 341 


As the great steamer passes out into the stream, a fine view is afforded 
of the harbor in the distance, the populous shores of Jersey City and 
Hoboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the 
New York shore. Above Hoboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle 
Hill, crowned by the Stevens mansion ; and still beyond is Weehawken, 
where Aaron Burr, the political adventurer, shot (in a duel) Alexander 
Hamilton, a distinguished statesman and jurist, and for 6 years Secretary 
of the U. S. Treasury (1804). At and above Weehawken The Palisades 
begin to assume a bold aspect. This is a vast trap-dyke, 3 - 500 ft. high, 
which runs along the r. bank from Hoboken to Haverstraw, with a lofty, 
columnar front, and masses of fragments at its base. It is less than 1 M. 
thick, and hides the Hackensack Valley from the Hudson. Bull's Ferry 
(W.) is a summer-resort opposite 90th St. Manhattanville (E.) is a vil¬ 
lage of New York City, near which are the Lunatic Asylum and the Con¬ 
vent of the Sacred Heart, just above which is Carmansville, and a large 
pile of fine buildings surmounted by*a dome (the N. Y. Institution for 
the Deaf and Dumb). On the same shore, and farther N., is Fort Wash- 
1 ington , on a bold cliff near 185th St. This was the citadel of the Ameri¬ 
can fortified lines in 1776, but was captured in November of that year, 
with its garrison of 2,600 men. On the W. shore is Fort Lee, whose gar¬ 
rison, retreating after that event, was attacked and cut to pieces by a large 
Hessian force. Near this point, where the cliffs loom up grandly, the 
immense Palisades Hotel is seen. On Jeffrey’s Hook (E.) are the remains 
of a powerful redoubt which was built to defend the obstructions with 
which the river was filled, and near King’s Bridge (by 217th St.) were 3 
forts, about which there was desperate fighting early in 1777. A short 
distance above (E.), the mouth of Spuyten Duyvil Creek is passed. 

This stream is named after a legendary Dutch trumpeter who swore he would 
swim the creek on his mission to the mainland, “in spite of the devil” (en spuyt 
den duyvil ). He struggled violently when at mid-stream, gave one long trumpet- 
blast, and sank. At the mouth of this creek the Indians attempted to board Hud¬ 
son’s vessel (in 1609), but after a severe conflict they were repulsed and driven to 
the shore. Throughout the Revolutionary War, Spuyten Duyvil was the southern 
border of the “ neutral ground,” — a belt of about 30 M., which was incessantly 
swept by raids and guerilla bands. 

From the high promontory of the Palisades on the W. a road leads to 
the pretty New Jersey village of Englewood, in the fertile valley of the 
Hackensack. Above Spuyten Duyvil is the village of Riverdale, near 
which (E.) is Mount St. Vincent, a convent of the Sisters of the Sacred 
Heart. The castellated and towered stone building was the Font Hill 
mansion of Edwin Forrest, and the large brick building was erected by the 
sisterhood after their acquisition of the estate. Yonkers (E.) is 17 M. 
from New York, and is a large and flourishing town at the mouth of the 
Neperah River, where many New York merchants live. Hudson made 
his second anchorage here (1609), and traded with many Indians who 


342 Route 52. 


TARRYTOWN. 


came aboard liis vessel. A naval battle was fought oft Yonkers in* 
1777 between the British frigates “ Rose ” and “ Phoenix ” and a flotilla of 
American gunboats. This district constituted the ancient Philipse estate, 
the manor-house of which is still standing, and with its broad halls, lofty 
rooms, wainscoting, and Dutch tiles, has a truly antique air. Part of 
the manor was built in 1682, and the remainder dates from 1745, all the 
walls being of stone. Mary Philipse, the beautiful heiress of this estate, 
was the first love of George Washington, and although he could not win 
her, he always remembered her fondly. 

A little above Yonkers (on the W.) is the highest point of the Palisades, 
and soon Hastings is seen on the E., a prosperous village whence much 
Westchester marble is shipped. Here Lord Cornwallis’s British army 
crossed the Hudson, just before Washington’s retreat through the Jerseys. 
1 M. above (E.) is Dobbs’ Ferry, an ancient village at the mouth of Wis- 
quaqua Creek, with ruins of old fortifications and a quaint old church. 
It was named for one Dobbs, a Swede, who kept a ferry here, and some 
years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-supported but unsuc¬ 
cessful attempt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this place is 
Piermont, where a pier 1 M. long (on the line between New York and 
New,Jersey) projects from the W. shore to the deep-water channel. A 
branch of the Erie Railway runs thence to Suffern, 18 M. W. 3 M. from 
Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where Major Andre was tried and 
executed (1780), and the stone house which was Washington’s head-quar¬ 
ters and Andre’s prison is still standing. At Dobbs’ Ferry begins a lake¬ 
like widening of the river called Tappan Zee (10 M. long, and 2 - 5 M. 
wide). Near Irvington, above the Ferry, are several fine mansions, among 
which is “Sunnyside,” the ancient and unique home of Washington Irv¬ 
ing. It was built in the 17th century by Wolfert Acker, who inscribed 
over the door “Lust in Rust” (pleasure in quiet), whence the English 
settlers called it “ Wolfert’s Roost.” The eastern front is covered with 
ivy, from a slip which Sir Walter Scott gave Irving at Abbotsford. Above 
“Sunnyside” is the Paulding Manor, a-costly building of marble, in 
Elizabethan architecture, and still farther N. is Tarrytown, an ancient 
village beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. Near this village 
(the Terwe Dorp of the 17th century) is a quiet valley known of old a 
Slaeperigh Haven (“ Sleepy Hollow ”), which has been immortalized by 
Irving. Carl’s Mill, the Philipse Castle, and the bridge over the Pocan- 
tico, are still standing, and so is the old Dutch Church, bruit in the 17th 
century with bricks brought from Holland. 

A monument marks the place where Andre was captured. Benedict Arnold, a 
brave American general, had been court-martialed and reprimanded for certain 
derelictions in his command'of Philadelphia, and his proud spirit felt the sting of 
disgrace so keenly that he resolved to be revenged on his country. He opened a 
secret correspondence with the British, and offered to surrender West Point (to 


THE HIGHLANDS. 


Route 52. 343 


which he had been transferred). Major Andre, Adjutant-General of the British 
anny, went up the Tappan Zee on the sloop-of-war “ Vulture,” and landed by 
night at Stony Point, where he arranged with Arnold for the surrender. But the 
“Vulture” was forced to retire, and Andre, attempting to pass by land to New 
York, was halted in the neutral ground by a squad of irregular militia. He was 
searched, and the papers and plans of the surrender were found. Arnold escaped 
to the “Vulture,” and became a Brigadier-General in the British army, receiving 
also $30,000, but Andre, being proven a spy, was executed amid the sorrow of 
both armies. He has a monument in Westminster Abbey. 

Nyack is opposite Tarrytown, while to the N. is Sing Sing , on a 
pleasant hillside, and near the end of the Croton Aqueduct, which has a 
fine stone arch here. Near the river are the extensive marble buildings 
of the State Prison, which were erected by the convicts, and stand in 
grounds covering 130 acres. The place is usually overflowing with 
prisoners, who are guarded by sentinels and patrols. Opposite Sing Sing 
(meaning “ Stony Place ”) is Verdritege Hook or Point-no-Point, on 
whose upper slope is Rockland Lake, from which New York gets 200,000 
tons of ice yearly. Teller’s (or Croton) Point, with its rich vineyards, is 
now approached, and the mouth of Croton River is seen. 6 M. up this 
river is a dam 240 ft. long, 40 ft. high, and 70 ft. thick at the bottom, 
which forms a lake of 400 acres with 40 ft. of water (500,000,000 gallons). 
From this point a closed aqueduct of stone and brick carries the water 
parallel with the Hudson for nearly 40 M. to the great reservoirs in the 
Central Park, New York. The aqueduct discharges 60,000,000 gallons 
daily, with a down grade of 13£ inches to a mile, and the whole work cost 
$14,000,000. 

The Highlands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the 
beautiful Haverstraw Bay to the village of Haverstraw (W.), with the old 
stone mansion on Treason Hill, where Arnold and Andre met. Above is 
a line of limestone cliffs which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime 
yearly. 3 M. above (W.) is the bold and picturesque promontory of 
Stony Point, with Yerplanck’s Point opposite. 

Both these places were fortified early in the B,evolution, and were captured by 
the British army in June, 1779, inflicting a severe blow on the Americans from 
the loss of such a strategic position. Stony Point was fortified by earthworks and 
abatis, and well garrisoned, yet Gen. Wayne begged permission to attack it, saying 
to Washington, “ General, I ’ll storm hell, if you ’ll only plan it.” With two small 
columns of picked men (of the 5th Penn. Infantry), on the night of July 15tli, Mad 
Anthony Wayne carried the fort at the point of the bayonet, under a heavy fire of 
musketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head, but, being borne into the 
captured works, soon recovered, and after cannonading Fort Fayette, on Ver- 
planck’s Point, he dismantled and abandoned the fort. The lighthouse stands 
on the site of the old magazine. 

3 M. from Stony Point (W.) is Caldwell’s Landing, at the foot of the ab¬ 
rupt and imposing Dunderberg (Thunder Mt.), which was anciently be¬ 
lieved to be the home of malicious imps who hurled fierce tempests out on 
the river. Opposite Dunderberg is Peekskill , at the mouth of a creek which 
was ascended long ago by Jan Peek, a Dutch mariner, who was so pleased 


344 Route 52. 


WEST POINT. 


with its fertile shores that he named it Peek’s Kill, and settled there. Fort J 
Independence crowned the hill above the village during the Revolution, and jj 
here Gen. Putnam had his headquarters, and “ tried as a spy, condemned 
as a spy, and executed as a spy,” the Englishman, Edmund Palmer (1777). 
An ancient church (built in 1767) and the venerable Van Cortlandt 
mansion are worthy of visiting. 

Bending to the W. at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its 
course called the Race, and passes through the beautiful Highlands, which 
were compared by Chateaubriand to “ a large bouquet tied at its base with 
azure ribbon.” From Peekskill to Newburg the steamer passes through a 
panorama of river-scenery unexcelled in the world. Dunderberg on the 
1. confronts on the r. Anthony's Nose. 

This bold hill (1,128 ft. high) is named after Anthony Van Corlear, Gov. Stuyves- 
ant’s trumpeter. “Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his 
splendor from behind one of the high cliffs of the Highlands, did dart one of his 
most potent beams full upon the effulgent nose of the sounder of brass. The 
reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot, into the water, and killed 
a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing 
miracle came to be made known to Peter Stuyvesant (the governor), he, as may 
well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly; and as a monument thereof, gave the 
name of Anthony’s Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood.” 

Above Anthony’s Nose is the romantic Brocken Kill, while opposite is 
the grape-abounding Iona Island. Nearly opposite is the old Poplopen 
Kill, with some remnants of Forts Montgomery (N.) and Clinton (S.), on 
the promontories at its mouth. These works, together with a massive 
chain and boom across the river, defended by a fleet of gunboats, were 
intended to close the Hudson against the British. But Sir Henry Clinton 
advanced in Oct., 1777, marching over the Dunderberg, and after a sharp 
skirmish at Lake Sinnipink (still called Bloody Pond) his forces invested 
the forts. After a long struggle in the fog, during which the British fleet 
moved up the river, the overpowered gairisons gave way and fled to the 
hills, having lost 300 men. The American gunboats were then destroyed 
by their crews, and the British broke away the chains and obstructions in 
the river (which had cost Congress $ 250,000). 

The Hudson now turns to the N., and Buttermilk Falls are soon seen on 
the 1., near which is the fashionable and favorite Cozzens' Hotel. 1 M. 
above is the U. S. Military Academy at West Point. This place was 
fortified by Parsons’s-Conn, brigade in 1778, and was then called “ the 
Gibraltar of America.” Washington recommended the location of a 
national school here, and in 181.2 the school was established, since which 
the officers of the regular army have been educated here. There are 
barracks for the 250 Cadets, with riding-school, chapel, hospital, &c. The 
academy building is an extensive stone structure, in Gothic architecture. 
There are various trophies (of artillery, &c.) about the grounds, and a 
library of 15,000 volumes in the main building. Kosciusko’s Garden is a 





NEWBURG. 


Route 52. 345 


beautiful hanging garden approached from the plain by Flirtation Walk, 
and containing a marble monument to the heroic Polish chieftain, who 
was wont to read and meditate here. Near the head of Flirtation Walk 
is a monument to the troops who were massacred in the Everglades of 
| Florida, in 1835. Fort Putnam is on the summit of Mount Independence, 
and commands fine views from its ancient and ruinous bastions. The 
Siege Battery is a practical work near the river. The Cadets are chosen 
by the national Congressmen and, after remaining here four years, enter 
the U. S. Armiy as second-lieutenants. The discipline is very strict, and 
during July and August of each year the corps goes into camp. 

Opposite West Point is Sugar Loaf Mt., under whose shadow is the 
Robinson House, Arnold’s head-quarters, and the Beverly Dock, whence 
he escaped to the “Vulture.” Passing Constitution Island, on the E. is 
seen Cold Spring, a pretty village near which is “ Undercliff,” the former 
home of the poet Morris. Mt. Taurus looms up on the r., and is named 
from a certain wild bull who was once the terror of the countryside, until 
he was hunted out and broke his neck on the next hill (N.), since called 
Breakneck Hill (1,187 ft. high). On the W. bank, just above West Point, 
is Cro'-Nest (l,4i8 ft. high), Avhicli is separated from Boterberg by the 
picturesque Vale of Tempe, where some part of the scene of “ The Culprit 
Fay ” is laid. Boterberg (otherwise called Butter Hill and Storm King) 
is a bold and imposing mountain 1,529 ft. high, at whose northern slope 
is the pretty village of Cornwall. “ Idlewild,” the home of N. P. Willis, 
is near Cornwall, beyond which the decadent village of New Windsor is 
seen. 

Newburg ( Orange Hotel ) is a busy city of over 15,000 inhabitants, built 
on the steep slope of a high hill, and showing finely from the river. There 
are many pretty villas on the heights, and a few very neat churches, while 
the water-front is lined with warehouses. The city has some manufac¬ 
tories, and a considerable country trade, while immense quantities of coal 
are brought here from Pennsylvania (by a bi'anch of the Erie Railway 
running up the Quassaic Valley to Greycourt, 19 M. distant), and shipped 
to all parts of the Hudson Valley. 

S. of Newburg is the old Hasbrouck Mansion, an antique stone house which 
was Washington’s head-quarters in 1783, while the Continental army was encamped 
here to watch the British at New York. Certain high officers of the army, doubt¬ 
ing the feasibility of a republic, circulated an address to that effect, and (indirectly) 
offered to make Washington King of America. The noble Virginian spurned the 
proposal, and after he had delivered an earnest address to a council of officers they 
resolved unanimously, “ That the officers of the American army view with abhor¬ 
rence, and reject with disdain, the infamous proposition contained in a late anony¬ 
mous address to the officers of the army.” 

A steam-ferry crosses the river from Newburg to Fishkill-on-the-Hud- 
son, on a fertile plain N. of the S. Beacon Hill (from which noble views 
are afforded). The manufacturing village of Matteawan is about 1| M. 
15 * 



346 Route 52. 


POUGHKEEPSIE. 


distant, and the ancient Dutch town of Fishkill is 5 M. to the E. 2 M. 
N. E. of the river village (the Landing) is the Verplanck House, once the 
head-quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place where the Society of the 
Cincinnati was formed (in 1783). As the steamer passes N., there are fine 
retrospects of Boterberg, Breakneck Hill, and the Matteawan and Shawan- 
gunk Mts. On the W. bank, opposite the village of Low Point, is a rocky 
platform which was named “the Devil’s Dance-Chamber” by Hendrick 
Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pow-wow of painted Indians. 

But Knickerbocker, describing Gov. Stuyvesant’s Voyage, says, “ Even now I 
have it on the point of my pen to relate, how his crew was most horribly fright¬ 
ened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roystefing devils, 
frisking and curveting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and 
which is called the Duyvell’s Dans Kamer to this very day.” 

New Hamburg, and Barnegat (on the E. shore), Hampton, Marlborough, 
and Milton (on the W. shore), are small river-villages, which are passed 
during the next 15 M. Poughkeepsie (Morgan House) is a city of 17,000 
inhabitants, situated on the E. bank, 75 M. from New York. It was 
settled by the Dutch in 1698, and its name is derived from the Indian 
Apokeepsing (“safe harbor”). It is situated on a plateau above the 
river, and has some good public buildings and famous schools, with a 
large and lucrative country trade from the rich farm-lands of Dutchess 
Comity. About 2 M. from the city (horse-cars run all the way) is Vassar 
College, the largest and most renowned female college in the world. It 
occupies a range of imposing buildings secluded amid extensive grounds, 
and has about 400 students, who pursue the higher classical and scientific 
studies, and receive degrees in due form. Among the distinguished resi¬ 
dents of Poughkeepsie are Benson J. Lossing, the historian ; A. J. Davis, 
the head of the Spiritualist sect (sometimes called “ The Poughkeepsie 
Seer”) ; and Prof. S. F. B. Morse (died in 1872), one of the originators 
of the electric telegraph. 

New Paltz is opposite Poughkeepsie, and 5 M. above (E.) is the hand¬ 
some village of Hyde Park, named after Sir Edmund Hyde, a near rela¬ 
tive of Queen Anne, who was an early Governor of New York. This land 
was bought and named by his private secretary. The village is near a 
sharp bend in the river, called by Dutch “Krom Elleboge” (crooked 
elbow), and now known as Crom Elbow. 1 M. above is “ Placentia,” the 
former home of James K. Paulding, the essayist and satirist, and Secre¬ 
tary of the U. S. Navy (1839-41). The river-banks are now low and un- 
picturesque, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the country-side, and 
handsome villas are seen on the banks. Astor’s mansion (W.), Esopus 
Island, and Staatsburg (E.) are passed, with the majestic blue peaks of 
the Catskills drawing nearer on the N. Port Ewen and Rondout, on the 
W., are busy towns, with large foreign populations engaged in the manu¬ 
facture of cement and the transfer of coal, which is brought here in im- 


CLERMONT. 


Route 52. 347 


mense quantities over the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 2 M. inland, on 
Esopus Creek, is Kingston, which was settled by the Huguenots in 1665, 
and was sacked and burned by Gen. Vaughan, with 3,000 British troops, 
in 1777. The first constitution of New York was formed in a legislative 
session at Kingston (1777), and here Vanderlyn, the artist, was born 
(1776). Opposite Rondout is Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson, 2 M. from the 
old village which was founded by William Beekman in 1647. He came 
from the Rhineland, and named his settlement for himself and his old 
home river. S. of the Landing is “ Wildercliff,” the former estate of the 
eminent Methodist, Freeborn Garretson. Above this place is “Ellerslie,” 
the home of the Hon. Wm. Kelly (the estate fronts for 1J M. on the 
river), while near the Landing is the old fortress-mansion of the Beek- 
mans (built of stone, in the 17th century). Above Rhinebeck is “ Roke- 
by,” W. B. Astor’s residence, which was built by Gen. Armstrong, Secre¬ 
tary of War, 1813-14 ; and “ Montgomery Place,” the Livingstons’ man¬ 
sion, built by Gen. Montgomery’s widow (a Livingston). Above Barry- 
town is the estate of “ Annandale,” and in the groves of Cruger’s Island 
(near the W. shore), is a picturesque and truly ancient ruin, which was 
imported from Italy some years since. Near Annandale is an elegant 
little chapel, and St. Stephen's College (Episcopal), endowed by Mr. Bard, 
the owner of the estate. Barrytown and Tivoli are the landings for the 
antiquated inland towns of Lower and Upper Red Hook. Opposite Tivoli 
(which has the old De Peyster Mansion) is the flourishing factory-village 
of Saugerties, at the mouth of Esopus Creek, and 2 M. above is Malden. 
Opposite Malden is Clermont, the home of the patrician family of 
Livingston (descended from the Earls of Linlithgow), which has had such 
great influence in New York State. The old manor was above German¬ 
town, and Chancellor Livingston built a new one on the site of Clermont, 
but Vaughan’s British raiders destroyed both houses (in 1777). New 
ones were soon erected, and the Chancellor, being appointed Ambassador 
to France, met Robert Fulton in Paris, and became deeply interested in 
the new theories of steam navigation. In 1787 John Fitch built and 
worked a steamboat at Philadelphia, and in 1789 one had been operated 
on the Clyde (near Glasgow), but both inventors had given up the idea 
of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1807 Livingston and Fulton 
built a steamboat in New York, called the “ Ciermont ” (but popularly 
termed “ Fulton’s Folly ”), which ascended the Hudson to Albany in 32 
hours, to the great amazement of all the people. 

The Catskill Mts. are now seen in the W., with the famous Mountain House 
far up on one of their peaks, white as a snow-drift. From the village of Catskill 
(with its superb Prospect Park Hotel overlooking the river) frequent stages run 
to the Mountain House (in 3-4 hrs. ; fare, $2.00), passing through Sleepy 
Hollow where Rip Van Winkle is said to have taken his 20 y«ars nap. The 
Mountain House is near the edge of a cliff, 2,212 ft. above the river, and com¬ 
mands a * * view extending over 10,000 square miles, embracing parts of four 


348 Route 52. 


ALBANY. 


States, 60 M. of the Hudson Valley, the distant cities of Albany and Troy, and the ■ 
surrounding peaks of the Catskills. The South and North Mts., the Two Lakes , 
and the High Falls, and the Stony, Cauterskill, and Plauterkill Cloves (notches) 
should be visited. There are other hotels among the nits., and tine fishing is 
found on the remote streams. The small village of Palenville has several boarding- ! 
houses, much visited by artists. Amid this scenery lived and labored Thomas 
Cole, the painter of the three series of impressive allegorical pictures representing 
“ The Course of Empire,” “ The Voyage of Life,” and “The Cross and the World” 
(the latter was left incomplete at his death). 

4 M. above Catskill, on the E. bank, is Hudson ( Worth House), a hand¬ 
some city on a high promontory, with a fine river-side avenue called the 
Promenade, leading to the top of Prospect Hill (200 ft. high) which looks 
over on the Catskills. The city was founded by 30 Quakers from Provi¬ 
dence, in 1784, and now contains 13,000 inhabitants. It is at the head of 
ship navigation, and is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railroad 
(to Chatham). The marble Court-House of Columbia County is located 
here, and there are several very neat churches in the city. 5 M. N. are 
the Columbia Sulphur Springs, with a large hotel and a picturesque lake, • 
while New Lebanon (see page 146) is often visited from this point. A 
steam-ferry leads from Hudson to the small village of Athens, whence a 
branch of the N. Y. Central Railroad diverges to Schenectady. 4 M. N. 
is Four Mile Point, with its lighthouse, opposite Kinderhook Landing, 5 
M. from Kinderhook, where Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the U. 
S., was born, and where he died, on his estate of “ Lindenwald.” Cox- 1 
sackie is a rambling village on the W. shore, and New Baltimore and 
Schodac are soon passed. Above New Baltimore and near the W. shore 
is Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rens- . 
selaerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany. f 
The Helderberg Mts. are seen in the W. as the steamer passes Coeyman’s; 
Castleton is then passed, on the E. ; the immense and costly national 
dikes are seen stretching along the shore ; and the populous hills of Al- * 
bany are rapidly approached. 

Albany (* Delavan House ; Stanwix Hall), the capital of the State of 
New York, is a prosperous commercial city at the confluence of the Erie 
and Champlain Canals and the Hudson River, 144 M. from New York 
City. It has over 70,000 inhabitants, and is famed for its extensive brew- 
eries and cattle-yards, while the workshops of the N. Y. Central Railroad 
employ over 1,000 men. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and 
through Albany by means of th Erie Canal, which has here a great ter¬ 
minal basin shielded by a breakwater 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The 
Susquehanna R. R. (from Binghampton; 142 M.), the N. Y. Central R. 
R. (from Buffalo — 297 M.—and the West), and the Rensselaer and 
Saratoga R. R. (from Saratoga, Rutland, and Lake Champlain) converge 
here from the W. and N., and are united by a double-tracked bridge of 
stone and iron (f M. long ; costing $1,150,000) to the great railway lines 
running S. and E. beyond the Hudson. The city receives its water-supply 



ALBANY. 


Route 52. 349 


from Rensselaer Lake (5 M. W.), by a fine system of works which. cost 
over $ 1,000,000. State St. runs from the business district near the river 
to the vicinity of the pleasant square on the hill, which is surrounded by 
public buildings. On the W. is the Capitol, a plain and rather dingy old 
building, alongside of which is the large hotel called Congress Hall. On 
the E. of the square are the fine marble buildings of the State House and 
the City Hall. The State Library (60,000 volumes) adjoins the Capitol, 
and just beyond are seen the slowly rising marble walls of the new State 
Capitol, which is to be a vast and imposing structure in Renaissance 
architecture, crowning one of the highest hills of'Albany, and visible for 
leagues up and down the river. The Catholic Cathedral of the Immac¬ 
ulate Conception is a well-finished and costly building, on Eagle St., with 
far-famed stained-glass windows; and the spacious Gothic Church of St. 
Joseph, on Ten Broeck St., is worthy of inspection. The State Arsenal 
I is a strong castellated building on Eagle St., near some handsome churches. 

M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Almshouse, Insane 
| Asylum, Fever Hospital, and Industrial School, all on one large farm. 
There are several other charitable institutions about Albany, and there 
are numerous public and private schools of a high grade. The Medical 
College and the renowned Law School of the University of Albany are on 
Eagle St., and the collections in natural history and geology (on State St.) 
should be seen. On a hill in the N. part of the city, is the Dudley Obser- 
1 vatory, richly endowed by Mrs. Dudley, and furnished with a costly 
collection of astronomical instruments and books. In the same part 
is the Van Rensselaer Manor House and its park, an interesting old 
building on the site first occupied by Kilian Van Rensselaer, Patroon 
of Beverwyk. This gentleman received from the Dutch king, in 1637, a 
patent, covering about 1,150 square miles, embracing most of the present 
counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, and here he ruled in feudal 
state. The family has ever since remained powerful and wealthy. The 
Schuyler House is another ancient mansion above the city, which was 
built by Col. Peter Schuyler, a distinguished colonial leader in the 17th 
century. 

Albany was founded by the Dutch in 1614, and in 1623 a fort was built and 
named Fort Orange. The settlement was called Beverwyk, or Williamstadt, and 
in 1664, when the British took the place, it was named Albany in honor of 
the British crown-prince, James, Duke of York and Albany. It was then sur¬ 
rounded by timber-walls, with six gates, parts of which were standing in 1812. 
In 1686 the city was chartered, and in 1798 it became the capital of the State. A 
provincial congress, which met here in 1754, formed such a plan of union for the 
colonies that concerted action was possible when later events required it. Since 
the construction of the Erie and Champlain Canals and the great systems of rail¬ 
roads which converge here, Albany has continued to increase in wealth and pros¬ 
perity. The new State Capitol (now building) will be the finest Renaissance 
structure in America, and will cost $7-10,000,000. 



350 Route 53. 


ALBANY TO MONTREAL. 


i 


53. Albany to Montreal 

By the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, running N. from Albany to Saratoga 
Springs, Whitehall, and Rutland. 

Soon after leaving the city, the Rural Cemetery is passed, and the train 
reaches W. Troy , the seat of the National Arsenal of Watervliet Avith its 
30 buildings and 100 acres of grounds. On the E. is seen Troy (.American 
House ; Mansion House), a flourishing city of nearly 50,000 inhabitants, 
situated on an alluvial plain 6 M. N. of Albany. It is an important rail¬ 
road-centre, and has many large manufactories (iron foundries, cotton and 
woollen goods, cars, Bessemer steel, &c.) fronting on the Hudson. The 
Troy Hospital, Marshall Infirmary, Orphan Asylums, and Warren Free 
Institute are the principal charitable foundations ; while the Rensselaer 
Polytechnic Institute and other fine academies attest the intelligence of 
the citizens. The streets are wide and well paved, and the marble Court 
House and the fine churches (notably those of St. Paul and St-. John) are 
worthy of attention. The city is built near the mouth of the Poestenkill, 
and is overlooked by Mounts Ida and Olympus. St. Peter’s College is 
seen upon the heights, and is a Catholic institution of high grade and wide 
reputation. Troy was founded by men of New England, and became a 
city in 1816. In 1862 full forty acres of its settled portion was burnt 
over, causing a loss of $ 3,000,000. 


Beyond W. Troy the train passes Cohoes, a large manufacturing town 


at the Falls of the Mohawk River, 3 M. above which the Erie Canal 


crosses the river in a stone aqueduct 1,137 ft. long, resting on 26 piers 
The train now crosses the Mohawk, and follows the r. bank of the Hudson 
to Mechanicsville, where it turns to the N. W. Stations, Round Lake 
(near the celebrated Methodist camp-ground) and Ballston, whose mineral 
waters were formerly much visited. There are several fine springs, the 
most valuable of which is known as the Litliia Spring. 7 M. beyond 
Ballston the train reaches the village of 


Saratoga Springs. 


Hotels. — The * * Grand Union Hotel is the largest in the world, and has a 
frontage (on Broadway) of 1,364 ft., with 1 M. of piazzas, 2 M. of Halls, 13 acres of 
carpets and marble flooring, S24 rooms, 1,474 doors, 1,891 windows, and accom¬ 
modations for over 1,200 guests. * Congress Hall is opposite the Grand Union, 
and has 1,016 ft. of frontage (on three streets), with broad piazzas, roof-prome¬ 
nades, and superb parlors. This house was built in 186S, and is of an imposing 
form of architecture. The * Grand Ceutral Hotel is on Broadway, opposite Con¬ 
gress Hall, and is a superb house, with over 700 ft. frontage, and 650 rooms. The 
* Clarendon is an aristocratic resort amid stately elm-groves opposite Congress 
Park. It accommodates 500 guests. The American (on Broadway) accommodates 
350 guests ; the Marvin House (corner Broadway and Division Streets), 250 ; the 
Continental, 200 ; the Columbian, 200. Besides those above-named, there are 42 
hotels in and near the village, together with several great water-cure establish¬ 
ments under the care of experienced doctors, and many quiet and inexpensive 






SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


Route 53. 351 


■boarding-houses. The charges at the principal hotels are $4.50-6.00 a day, or 
$ 25. -35.00 a week, while every variety of price and accommodation may be found 
among the smaller hotels. Pleasant quarters may be found in the boarding¬ 
houses for from $ 10 to $ 20 a week. 

Carriages. — 50 c. each passenger for a course within the bounds of the village 
(baggage extra). A coachman and span may be hired for $75.00 a month. 

Amusements. — The Opera House, attached to the Grand Union House, 
seats 1,500 persons. There are nightly hops in the elegant ball-rooms attached to 
the three chief hotels, and grand balls once a week at each of these houses. Guests 
pay $ 1 for admission to the balls, which are the most brilliant on the continent. 
The Races come off in July and August (second week), on one of the best of the 
American race-courses (1 M. from Congress Spring). The swiftest horses are 
entered at these famous contests, and some of the most remarkable races of the 
past decade have taken place here. Music is discoursed by bands connected with 
the hotels, several times daily, and promenades take place in the parks, parlors, 
and piazzas. 

Churches. — The Methodist and the Episcopal Societies have fine buildings 
on Washington St., near the Grand Union. The Baptist Church is on the same 
street, and the Presbyterian Church is on upper Broadway. The Catholics meet 
at their church on S. Broadway (near the Clarendon), and the Congregationalists 
meet on Phila St. (over the Post-Office). The Y. M. C. A. reading-room and hall 
is on Phila St. 

Omnibuses run frequently to the springs beyond the village limits, and to 
Saratoga Lake. A small steamer plies on the lake. 

Railroads. From Boston to Saratoga by Routes 22 and 53 ; bj r Route 25 ; 
by Routes 26 and 28 (the favorite route, through trains in 9 hrs.). From New 
York by through express (without change) on the Hudson River Railroad, in hrs. 
(1S6 M.) ; or by Route 52 to Albany, and thence by Route 53. Saratoga is 38 M. 
from Albany: 274 M. from Philadelphia ; 412 M. from Washington ; 841 M. from 
Chicago ; 392 M. from Quebec ; 311 M. from Niagara ; 45 M. from Lake Cham¬ 
plain ; and 2,292 M. from New Orleans. The Adirondack Railroad (station on 
Washington St.) runs N. from Saratoga to North Creek (57 M.). 

Saratoga Springs, one of the foi’emost of the summer-resorts of America 
and of the world, is situated in Eastern New York, about midway between 
Albany and Lake George. Like Newport by the sea, it is often called 
“ the Queen of American watering-places,” and this dual sovereignty is 
generally acknowledged. The village is situated on a plateau a few M. 
W. of the Hudson River, and has a resident population of about 9,000. 
The hotel system of Saratoga is unrivalled elsewhere in the world, and 
although equal to the accommodation of 16-18,000 guests, it is taxed to 
its utmost capacity during the month of August (the season opens early 
in June). Broadway is the main street, and extends for several miles, 
with the chief hotels near its centre and a succession of costly villas be¬ 
yond. Circular St. and Lake Ave. are also famed for their elegant sum¬ 
mer-residences, while large medical establishments and boarding-houses 
are found on the quieter side-streets. The village is at its brightest iu 
August, when it is thronged by visitors from all parts ol the republic and 
from Europe, while over 3,000 private carriages, together with the caval¬ 
cades from the public livery-stables, join in the parade of fashion on 
Broadway and the Boulevard. Although the greater part of the visitors 
come from the central Atlantic States, the number from beyond that dis¬ 
trict is still so great as to give a continental or even a cosmopolitan flavor 
to the summer society. The merry music of the bands, the legulai pio- 


352 Route 53. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


cessions of elegant carriages on the favorite drives, the crowds gathering 
about the springs at the fashionable hours for drinking, the brilliant hops 
and the world-renowned balls at the grand hotels, and the surging of the 
multitude toward the railroad station at the time of the incoming trains, 
furnish endless resources for observation and amusement. 

Congress Park is a pleasant ground for a ramble, and consists of a 
low ridge sweeping around the Congress and Columbian Springs. It is 
opposite the chief hotels, and is well laid out in paths, and adorned with 
many of the great elms which are the only natural beauties to be found 
in Saratoga. N. of the Parkis the Indian Camp, where a band of French 
half-breeds and Indians encamp during the summer, carrying on a lucra¬ 
tive trade in bead-work, baskets, moccasins, and other small-wares. The 
Circular Railway is near the camp, and is supposed to afford visitors a 
beneficial exercise. A little way beyond the camp (on the r. side of Cir¬ 
cular St.) is the popular Temple Grove Seminary, whose fine building is 
used during the summer as a boarding-house for families On the same 
street, and just beyond the Seminary, is the Drs. Strong’s Institute (100 
guests) for the practice of the water, vacuum, and movement cures. 
About 1 M. N. of the Park (on Broadway) is the race-course and hotel at 
Glen Mitchell, with finely arranged grounds and shady groves. 

The mineral springs rise in a stratum of Potsdam sandstone near a great break 
or fissure in the strata underlying the Saratoga Valley, and reach the surface by 
passing through a bed of blue clay. Most of the springs are owned by stock com¬ 
panies, one of which has a capital of $ 1,000,000, and controls the Congress, Colum¬ 
bian, and Empire Springs. The process of boring artesian wells has been intro¬ 
duced with much profit, and some of the most valuable of the new sources have 
been discovered in that way. Immense quantities of the waters are sent away to 
all parts of the United States, for the treatment of invalids at home, though the 
process of bottling and packing is difficult and costly. In the year 1S66, 360,000 
bottles were sent away from the Empire Spring alone. The principal ingredients 
of the waters are carbonic-acid and salt, with bi-carbonates of lime, magnesia, 
soda, iron, and lithia, of which the varying proportions cause the peculiar char¬ 
acteristics of the different springs. The visitor may freely drink at any of the 
sources, the water being dipped up by boys (to whom a small gratuity is some¬ 
times given). The cathartic waters should be taken before breakfast, three glasses 
being a fair quantity ; the alterative waters should be taken m small quantities 
throughout the day ; the tonic (iron) waters must be drunk after midday ; and 
the diuretic waters should be taken before each meal. 

The Columbian Spring is in Congress Park, under a neat dome. It 
was discovered in 1806, and is the favorite among the residents of the vil¬ 
lage. This water contains a perceptible amount of iron, with considerable 
carbonic-acid gas, and acts as a decided tonic and diuretic'. 

The Congress Spring is under a Doric colonnade in Congi'ess Park, 
and close to Congress Hall. It was found by a party of hunters in 1792, 
and was so named because there was a Congressman among their number. 
It was soon after choked by unskilful tubing, and was found again in 
1804. The exportation of the water began in 1S23, and now it has a con¬ 
tinental fame, and is also sold in Europe. It contains in each gallon 400 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


Route 53. 353 


grains of chloride of sodium, 143 grains of bi-carbonate of lime, and 122 
grains of bi-carbouate of magnesia, with 36 grains of other elements. 
This water is cathartic and alterative, and is beneficial in diseases of the 
liver and kidneys. More of it is drank than of the water of any other 
American spring, and its vicinity is thronged every bright summer morn¬ 
ing with health-seekers from the hotels. 

The Washington Spring is in the Recreative Garden of the Clarendon 
Hotel (across Broadway from the Columbian). It was opened in 1806, 
and while being renovated and shafted in 1858 a great flood of water and 
gas burst forth into the subterranean tunnel, and forced the workmen to 
flee for their lives. This is the most pleasant water in the valley, and has 
a taste of iron, with strong tonic properties. It is sometimes called “the 
Champagne Spring,” and is situated among stately pine-groves. 

The Crystal Spring, under the Grand Central Hotels was discovered in 
1870. It is tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is alterative in its 
effects. The Hathorn Spring is opposite Congress Hall, on Spring St. 
It was discovered in 1868, and is a very powerful cathartic. Each gallon 
contains 510 grains of chloride of sodium, 171 grains of bi-carbonate of 
lime, and 176 grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, besides an extraordinary 
amount of lithia. The Hamilton Spring is near the Hathorn, and back 
of Congress Hall (corner Spring and Putnam Sts.). It is diuretic and 
cathartic in its operation, and is mainly used for diseases of the kidneys. 
The Putnam Spring is on Phila St., near the Post-Office, and is tonic in 
its effects. 

The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Ave., very near 
Broadway. It was tubed n 1839, and has a wide reputation for its 
cathartic properties and its efficacy in dyspepsia and bilious complaints. 
Of late years it has improved in quality and in popularity. The United 
States Spring is under the same beautiful colonnade, and is tonic in its 
properties, while from its sparkling character it is used for giving life and 
flavor to still wines. 

The sources previously mentioned are near each other, in the centre of 
the village. The Seltzer, High Rock, Star, Empire, Red, Excelsior, and 
Eureka are in a long line in the N. part of the village. The Seltzer 
Spring is on the old Willow Walk, not far N. of the Pavilion. This is 
the least saline of the Saratoga waters and closely resembles the Nassau 
Spring of Germany. It bubbles up through a high glass-tube, agitated 
now and then by the passage of carbonic-acid gas,‘ It is a pleasant and in¬ 
vigorating beverage. 

The High Rock Spring is about 150 ft. from the Seltzer, and is the 
oldest known of the springs. In 1767 a party of Indians brought Sir Wm. 
Johnson thither on a litter, and after spending some weeks here drinking 
the medicinal waters, he was cured. The water rises in a cylindrical 

vv 



C54 Route 53. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


opening in a rock of conical shape, 3i,- ft. high and 24 ft. around, — a 
natural curb of tufa which has been formed by the mineral deposits from 
the spring. The water is decidedly saline to the taste. 

The Star Spring (formerly called the Iodine) is near the High Rock. 
This is the favorite mineral water in New England, and vast quantities of 
it are shipped in kegs and bottles. It is cathartic in effect, and acid in 
taste, and is beneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. 

The Empire Spring is N. of the Star (at the head of Circular St.). It 
very much resembles the Congress water in its constituents and effects 
(cathartic). The Red Spring is just beyond the Empire (on Spring Ave.) 
This water is chiefly (and extensively) used as awash, and is especially 
efficacious in diseases of the skin and the blood. Dyspepsia is benefited, 
and salt rheum is cured by this agency. The “ A ” Spring (on Spring 
Ave., beyond the Red) is becoming popular as a cathartic agent, having, 
moreover, a pleasant taste. . 

The Excelsior Spring is nearly 2 M. N. E of Congress Park, and is 
reached by Spring Ave., or by a forest-path turning off from Lake Ave., 
and leading through beautiful woodland scenery. The Excelsior water is 
pleasant to the taste, and mildly cathartic in its operations. Near this 
place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, forming a group called 
the Ten Springs. The Eureka Spring is reached by following the park¬ 
like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior. It is situated amid 
charming forest scenery, and is gaining popularity as a cathartic agent, 
beneficial for cases of dyspepsia, and liver and stomach diseases. Near 
this place is the Eureka White Sulphur Spring, with a copious flow of 
water charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. This is one of the best hepatic 
springs in the State, and is efficient in many affections of the glands, skin, 
stomach, &c. It is taken internally and externally, — the latter at the 
bath-hoUses (50 c. a bath) in the vicinity. Hourly stages run from the 
great hotels to the Eureka Springs. 

The Glacier Spouting Spring is 1 M. S. of the village, near the Balls- 
ton road. It was discovered in 1871 by sinking an artesian well, 300 ft. 
deep, to the Trenton limestone stratum. The proportion of mineral 
constituents in this water is very large, and it is a powerful cathartic, 
beneficial also in diseases of the kidneys and liver. 

The Geyser Spouting Spring is not far from the Glacier, near the 
Ballston road and the railroad. It was discovered in 1870 by boring a 
well 140 ft. deep, and the water jets up for over 25 ft., being impelled by 
carbonic-acid gas. This-is the coldest of the waters of Saratoga, and has 
a larger amount of mineral matter than any other. It is strongly cathartic, 
and is lively and pleasant to the taste. Between the Glacier and the 
Geyser is the Rllis Spring (chalybeate). 

Saratoga Lake is about 4 M. from the village, and is reached by the 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


Route 53. 355 


favorite drive called the Boulevard (entered by following the street which 
lies between Congress Hall and the Park). This road passes near the 
race-course and the trout-ponds. Moons Lake House is the favorite of 
the lake hotels, and furnishes rare dinners of fish and game, at high prices. 
The fried potatoes of this house are considered a great delicacy. Saratoga 
Lake is 9 M. long and 3-5 M. wide, and furnishes good fishing and boat¬ 
ing. The scenery is tame, although the views from Chapman’s Hill (1 M. 
from the Lake House) and Wagman’s Hill are pleasing. Lake Lovely is 
a sequestered pond among the hills near the Boulevard. It is a favorite 
place for picnics, and has some fine woodland scenery. 

Lake Luzerne is 22 M. N. of Saratoga (by the Adirondack Railroad), and 
is a picturesque sheet of water with two good hotels (Rockwell’s and the 
Wayside). The railroad exhibits some remarkable engineering and steadily 
rising grades, while the lake affords good fishing and boating. Stages run 
from Luzerne to Caldwell (10 M.). 

The battle of Stillwater was fought on Bemis Heights, about 15 M. S. E. of the 
Springs, and 2 M. from the Hudson River. Gen. Burgoyne marched south from 
Canada in June, 1777, with a well-appointed British army, strengthened by 
German, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet another 
British army advancing from New York, somewhere on the line of the Hudson, 
and thus cut the rebellious colonies in two, to be subdued in detail. Burgoyne 
took Fort Ticonderoga, July 6, and lost a large detachment of his best German 
troops, who were cut off by the Vermonters at Bennington, Aug. 16. On Sept. 
14 the British crossed the Hudson and encamped at Saratoga, near the American 
army. Burgoyne made an attack the next clay on the lines at Bemis’ Heights, 
which had been fortified by Kosciuszko, but after a long and indecisive battle, was 
forced to suspend his southward march. He fortified his camp, and waited for Sir 
Henry Clinton’s army to achieve its northward march and rescue him. His sup- 
plies and outposts were cut off daily, and, on October 7, lie advanced for another 
battle. Morgan’s Virginians attacked his right, the 8th, 9th, and 10th Mass, 
under Gen. Poor, were led against his left, while other troops fell on his front. 
The British retreated, leaving their artillery, and the Americans stormed the 
fortified camp after desperate fighting. Burgoyne fell back on his old camps by 
Fish Creek, but Gen. Fellows, with a New England brigade and batteries, prevent¬ 
ed his crossing the river, while Gates with 12,000 Continental troops and New 
York militia faced him on the S. His provisions gave out, the camp was inces¬ 
santly cannonaded by the American batteries, and Clinton’s army had failed to 
connect, so, on Oct. 16, the British army, consisting of 5,791 men, with 42 can¬ 
non, and all their stores, surrendered to Gen. Gates. They were held as captives 
until the close of the war (over 5 years), first at Cambridge, Mass., and afterward 
at Charlottesville, Va. 


The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad runs N. E. from Saratoga, by 
Gansevoort and Moreau to Fort Edioard, on the Hudson (two hotels). 
This place was fortified in 1709, and in 1755 Fort Edward was built at the 
confluence of a broad creek with the river. The ramparts were 16 ft. high 
and 22 ft. thick, and were provided with 4 bastions and bordered by a 
broad wet ditch. It was a very important station on the old military road 
to the N., and in 1777 was held by 5,500 Americans, who retired before 
the advance of Burgoyne. About this time the beautiful Jane McRea was 


356 Route 53. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


murdered by Indians, near the village, under circumstances which have 
caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World history. 

Passengers who wish to go to Lake Champlain direct, continue on the train for 
20 M. farther, passing up the valley of Wood Creek to Whitehall. In going toward 
Whitehall the Fort Ann Mts. are seen on the 1., and the course of the Champlain 
Canal is followed. Fort Ann Village is on the site of an old colonial fort, near 
which Putnam and 500 Rangers were defeated by the French partisan Molang, with 
a large French and Indian force. The Rangers suffered fearfully, and Putnam was 
captured. In 1777 the Americans attacked the 9th line regiment of the British 
army, in a ravine now traversed by the railroad (J M. N. of the station), but after 
an obstinate engagement the assailants were forced to withdraw. Whitehall 
(Hall’s Hotel ) is a prosperous lumbering village, situated in a rugged ravine under 
Skene’s Mt. It was settled by Col. Philip Skene in 1765, and a large stone man¬ 
sion and military works were erected. It was captured by Herrick and the Green 
Mt. Boys in 1775, and in 1779 was confiscated by the State of New York, on ac¬ 
count of Skene’s adhesion to the king, the British fleet here engaged the 
Americans flying from Ticonderoga, .July 7, 1777, destroyed several galleys, and 
took 128 cannon and a vast amount of supplies. The name of “ Whitehall ” was 
adopted in place of Skenesborough, and in 1812 the place was well fortified. In 
1S14 Macdonough’s fleet, with the British squadron which it had taken in the 
naval battle at Plattsburg, came to this point, and here the “Saratoga,” “Con- 
fiance,” and other vessels sank at their moorings. Whitehall is 24 M. from Fort 
Tieonderoga (by the lake). Whitehall to Rutland, see Route 28. 

Passengers for Lake George change cars at Fort Edward, and take a 
train which passes over a branch railroad to Glens Falls (6 M.), a flourish¬ 
ing factory-village with about 5,000 inhabitants, which has but lately 
recovered from a fire which utterly destroyed it (in 1863). The Hudson 
here falls 50-60 ft. over a long and rugged ledge, while the State has 
built a great dam above, which feeds the Champlain Canal. The island 
below the falls is associated with Cooper’s “ Last of the Mohicans.” 
“ Here, amid the roaring of this very cataract, if romance maybe believed, 
the voice of Uncas, the last of the Mohicans, was heard and heeded ; here 
Hawk-Eye kept his vigils ; here David breathed his nasal melody,” kc. 

Stages run from Glens Falls to Caldwell, 9 M. N. About 5 M. beyond the vil¬ 
lage the road passes near Williams’s Rock, a large boulder which marks the scene 
of “The Bloody Morning-Scout.” On Sept. 7, 1755, when the French army of 
Dieskau was marching down from Crown Point against the Anglo-colonial army 
under Gen. Johnson, Col. Ephraim Williams was sent out with 1,200 men to en¬ 
gage the French van-guard. 200 of his men were Mohawk Indians, under the 
command of their noble, white-haired chief, Hendrick. The detachment ad¬ 
vanced into the very centre of the invading army (which was marching in a great, 
hall-moon curve), and was speedily enveloped and crushed by the enemy. A ter¬ 
rible massacre ensued (in a ravine still called the Bloody Defile), and Williams 
(the founder of Williams College) and Hendrick fell, with most of their men. The 
bodies of the slain were thrown into Bloody Pond, a quiet pool in a glen near Wil¬ 
liams’s Rock. Dieskau then advanced rapidly to attack the colonial camp at Lake 
George. Johnson had fortified his position, and the Indian and Canadian auxil¬ 
iaries in the attacking force were soon put to flight by the fire of the batteries, 
while the French regulars suffered heavily, and were finally repulsed with the loss 
of 700 killed and wounded. Dieskau was wounded and made prisoner, while John¬ 
son, though wounded, was made a baronet of Great Britain, and received the 
thanks of Parliament. Fort William Henry was soon afterwards erected, armed 
with 42 cannon, stored with vast supplies, and garrisoned by 2,500 men. In Au¬ 
gust, 1757, this fort was beleaguered by 10,000 Frenchmen and Canadians, under 
the Marquis de Montcalm. After a siege of several days’ duration, having received no 
aid from the colonial army at Fort Edward, the fort was surrendered. As soon as 


LAKE GEORGE. 


Route 53. 357 


iliG disarmed garrison marched out, the Indian allies of Montcalm fell furiously 
upon them, and a fearful massacre ensued. Hundreds of the defenceless colonials 

I - were put to death under the walls of the fort before the slaughter could be stayed. 
Although Montcalm letiicd to Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga) with Iris trophies and 
captured batteries, the site of Fort William Henry was never re-occupied a new 
work called Fort George, with a central citadel of stone, having been built 1 M S 
E. of the old fort. 

Caldwell is a dull village at the S. end of Lake George, which enjoys a 
slight local distinction from the fact of its being the shire-town of Warren 
County. There are two small inns here, and the Lake House (accommo¬ 
dating 175 guests, at $ 3 - 3.50 a day). The * Fort William Henry Hotel 
is a vast and sumptuous house, on the site of the old fort, and amid finely 
arranged grounds. It accommodates 1,200 guests, and charges $5.00 a 
day for transient visitors. The splendid frontage of the hotel looks out 
over the lake, which is close at hand. Some remnants of the old fort may 
be found here, and Fort George (1 M. distant) is a picturesque ruin. 
Rattlesnake Cobble is an easily ascended hill near Caldwell, which com¬ 
mands a broad view down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also 
ascended from the village, and give varying views of the lake and its 
shores. 

Stages run from Caldwell to Lake Luzerne ; also to Warrensburg, 
Chester, Schroon Lake, and the southern Adirondacks. 

Lake George 

was first visited by Father Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe en¬ 
tered its quiet waters on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, 1646. In honor 
of that sacred anniversary he named these bright waters “Le Lac du St. Sacre- 
ment” (The Lake of the Holy Sacrament), and then passed on to a heroic martyr¬ 
dom at the hands of the Mohawks, fulfilling the prophecy which he had made 
when leaving Montreal, “ Ibo, nee redibo.” For a century the lake was known in 
the border chronicles as the path of hostile incursions or of religious devotees 
passing to the land of the fierce Mohawks. Courcelles, Tracy, Schuyler, Menteth, 
— French, Dutch, Indians, English, diversified the record. In 1746 Sir William 
Johnson concluded a league with the northern Indians, on the shores of St. Sac- 
rement, and in 1755 he led an army to the lake, and named it Lake George, “not 
only in honor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion.” (This 
name is growing more and more out of favor year by year, and most people would 
prefer either the French “St. Sacrement,” or the Indian “Horicon,” — meaning 
“Silvery Waters,” — suggested by Cooper.) Johnson’s force was soon menaced 
by 2,000 Frenchmen and Indians under the Baron Dieskau, but “the Bloody 
Morning Scout” was followed by a total defeat of the invading force, in which the 
French regulars were nearly annihilated. Fort William Henry was built soon af¬ 
ter, and Rogers and Putnam, with their hardy Rangers, scouted over the lake to¬ 
ward the French fortress at Ticonderoga. In March, 1757, Rigaud destroyed 300 
English batteaux and several sloops near Fort William Henry, and in August the 
Marquis de Montcalm passed down the lake with 6,000 men in boats and 3,000 
men marching on the W. shore. After picketing the southern roads, Montcalm 
opened a cannonade on the fort from batteries near the present site of the Lake 
House, and soon compelled its surrender. After the ensuing massacre of the dis¬ 
armed garrison, the fort was destroyed. But the most imposing spectacles which 
this, or any other American lake, has seen, occurred in 1758 and 1759. In the 
former year, Gen. Abercrombie advanced up the lake with 16,000 men, in 900 
batteaux and 190 whale-boats, convoyed by gunboats, all brilliant with rich uni¬ 
forms and waving banners, while the music of numerous regimental bands echoed 






358 Routs o3. LAKE GEORGE. 


among the hills. (This pageant is finely described by Cooper, in “Satanstoe,” 
Chapters XXII. - XXV.) A few days later the shattered and defeated army passed 
up the lake to Fort William Henry, having left over 2,000 of their number dead 
and dying under the walls of Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga). • In 175S Gen. Amherst 
led 11,000 men in another grand martial procession down the lake, and this march 
ended in the Conquest of Canada. In 1775 the abandoned Forts George and Gage 
(at Caldwell) were occupied by New York militia, and afterwards by a detach¬ 
ment from Hinman’s Conn. Reg., and by Col. Van iScliaiek’s N. Y. Reg. In the 
summer of 1777 Fort George was chosen as the army hospital, on account of its 
salubrity, and 3,000 sick men were sent here. Hundreds died of the small-pox 
and typhus-fever, and among them was the Baron de Woedtke, a Prussian noble 
who had just accepted a general’s commission. In 1777; after the fall of Ticon¬ 
deroga, Fort George and the lake were abandoned by the Americans, but were re¬ 
occupied after Burgoyne’s surrender. ' In October, 1780, the garrison of Fort 
George was defeated and cut to jneces, near Bloody Pond, and the fort and the 
fleet on the lake were taken by the British. Since that day, peace has dwelt on 
these tranquil waters. 

Lake George, “the Como of America,” is situated in Northeastern New 
York, near the Adirondack Mts., and is about 300 ft. above the sea. It 
is 36 M. long, and 1 - 4 M. wide, and its shores are generally sterile and 
fringed with lofty and abrupt hills. There are but three petty villages 
on the lake, and a highway passes through them on the W. shore, con¬ 
necting Caldwell with Bolton, Hague, and Ticonderoga. The vicinity of 
frowning mts., the great number of islands, the transparency of the waters, 
and the bracing purity of the air cf the highlands, unite to increase the 
claims of Lake George as a summer-resort, while its scenery has been lik¬ 
ened not only to that of Como, but also to Lake Windermere and Loch 
Katrine. 

The steamer “ Minnehaha” leaves Caldwell every morning, and runs to 
the N. end of the lake, returning in the afternoon. The steamer “ Ga- 
nouskie ” makes daily trips between Caldwell, Bolton, and 14-Mile Island. 

The steamer leaves its pier (at the great hotel) and crosses to Crosbysicle, 
on the E. shore, with a large hotel situated in pleasant groves by the 
shore, and looking across to Caldwell. French Mt. towers to the E., and 
is covered with forests. Tea Island (so named from a tea-house, or arbor, 
erected in 1828) is next passed, 1 M. from Caldwell, and then Diamond 
Island is approached, 11? M. beyond. The name is derived-from the beau¬ 
tiful quartz crystals which are found here, and the place was inhabited 
in the early part of this century, — the mistress of the family being gen¬ 
erally known as “the Lady of the Lake.” Diamond Island was fortified 
by Burgoyne in 1777, and was garrisoned by part of the 47th line regi¬ 
ment under Capt. Aubrey. It was attacked by Col. John Brown, with 
the New England militia who had swept the outworks of Ticonderoga, 
but Aubrey repulsed the Americans with artillery, and then drove them 
away (“ with great loss ”) by an attack with his gunboats. Brown lost 
all his vessels and cannon, and many men. Dunham’s Bay and 1Mont¬ 
calm's Bay are passed on the E., the latter being beyond Long Island, 
which is passed on the E. (with the Three Sisters islets on the W.). The 


LAKE GEORGE. 


Route 53. 359 


Trout Pavilion is a sequestered hotel above Montcalm’s Bay, near the 
best fishing-grounds, and frequented by fishermen. The Fort Ann Mts. 
loom up darkly on the E. as the steamer crosses the lake, with the Three 
Brothers on the W., and Dome and Recluse Islands on the N. This is 
the broadest part of the lake, and affords views of rare beauty, with the 
graceful Dome Island (which resembles Ellen’s Isle, in Loch Katrine) 
prominently seen. Recluse Island is a beautiful spot just W. of the 
Dome, with a cheerful summer-villa embowered among trees. This island 
has the remains of fortifications which were built by Abercrombie’s army 
in 1758, while the views from its N. and E. shores are exquisitely beauti¬ 
ful. The steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village with a noble 
outlook over the broadest expanse of the lake. There are two large and 
comfortable family hotels here, and in the environs of the village is the 
quaint old stone Church of St. Sacrament. The terms at the Mohican 
House (directly on the shore) are low, and the accommodations are good. 
Prospect Mt. is back of the village, and commands a broad and delight¬ 
ful view, embracing the widest part of the lake, Montcalm’s and Gana- 
souke (or Northwest) Bays, Recluse, Dome, and Green Ids. and the 
Narrows, and Tongue and Black Mts. in the N. and N. E. Ganasouke 
Bay extends for 6 M. to the N. above Bolton, being separated from the 
lake by the lofty promontory of Tongue Mt. , where deer abound in the 
late fall and winter. As the boat leaves Bolton, Parodi (or Sloop) Island 
is passed on the 1. (so named because the singer, Signora Parodi, erected 
a cross here in 1851). On the N. are Green and Hog Islands, closing the 
entrance to Ganasouke Bay, while Tongue Mt. is on the W. and Black 
Mt. on the E., as the steamer crosses toward the lofty palisades called 
Shelving Rock, with the innumerable islands of the Narrows on the 1. 
14-Mile Island is just W. of Shelving Rock, and has a fine hotel, which 
is much visited by city gentlemen for the sake of the fishing in the vicinity. 
The Shelving Rock Fall is about 1 M. S. of the hotel (on the mainland), 
and is a small and graceful cascade. The island is 14 M. from Caldwell, 
and Derrom’s Hotel, charges $2-2.50 a day for board ($10-14.00 a 
week). The steamer now enters the Narrows, where the lake is contracted 
between high mts., and a fleet of small islands is anchored in the channel. 
These islets were the scene of numerous combats in the colonial days, but 
are now deserted, save for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in 
their cool shadows. Steaming down between Tongue Mt. and Black Mt. 
(2,878 ft. high ; sometimes ascended with guides, for the sake of its view) 
the “ Minnehaha” passes the Hen and Chickens, Hatchet, Half-Way, and 
Floating Battery Islands, with the N. peaks of Black Mt., called variously, 
Elephant’s Ridge or Sugar Loaf. Just N. of the Floating Battery group 
is Vicar’s Island, with the palisades of Buck Mt. on the W., and the 
hamlet of Dresden seen down Bosom Bay, on the E. Sabbath Day Point 



3GO Route 53. 


LAKE GEORGE. 


is soon approached (on the W.), —a long, low promontory running out 
from rich meadows and still retaining the air of peace and restfulness 
which won it the name it hears. 

In 1757 a sharp skirmish occurred at Harbor Island, off this Point, and in July 
of that year the 1st New Jersey regiment was sent on a scout down the lake. De 
Carbiereand 400 Frenchmen and Indians ambushed the Jersey Blues in the archi¬ 
pelago off the Point, and defeated them with great slaughter. 131 of the 
Americans were killed, 12 escaped, and ISO were made prisoners, many of whom 
were put to death with horrible tortures. On the evening of July 5,1758, the van¬ 
guard and centre of Abercrombie’s grand army (light infantry and regulars) 
rested on Sabbath Day Point from sunset until near midnight, waiting for the 
three brigades of Provincials and the artillery to come up. In 1777 a sharp con¬ 
flict took place here between American militia and Tories, and during the present 
century peace has settled along these shores, although the commonplace farm¬ 
houses on the Point have marred the natural beauty of the place. 

The vast bulk of Black Mt. is prominent in the S. E., as the “Minne¬ 
haha ” runs N. to the village of Hague, situated on a widening of the 
lake, where it is 4 M. across. Garfield’s is a favorite hotel at Hague, and 
from this point parties go to the lakes (abounding in fish), of Pharaoh (12 
M. N. W.), Brant, and Schroon. As the steamer gains the middle of the 
lake again, the prospect of the pass between Rogers’ Slide and Anthony’s 
Nose, and the retrospect of the Narrows and its island-flotilla afford 
delightful views. Friends’ Point and Islands are passed on the W., and 
then Anthony's Nose (on the N. E.) pushes out its rocky ledges over the 
deepest water in the lake (400 ft.). Rogers' Slide is on the W. shore, 
and is a long precipice which runs down into the water. 

There is a legend to the effect that Major Robert Rogers (the chief of the 
Rangers, and afterwards a dangerous Tory officer) was chased to the verge of this 
cliff by Indians (in the winter of 175S). Suddenly reversing his snow-shoes, and 
throwing his haversack down on the ice-bound lake, he retraced his tracks, and 
got away down an adjacent ravine before his pursuers arrived. The Indians fol¬ 
lowed the tracks leading to the precipice, and saw none leading away, whence 
they concluded that he had east himself over; and when, a few minutes later, 
they saw him skimming away over the ice toward Fort William Henry, they at¬ 
tributed his escape to the protection of the Great Spirit. 

Passing now by Prisoners’ Island (where the French kept their captives), 
with Lord Howe’s Point on the 1., the “ Minnehaha” soon reaches the end 
of the lake. Large four-horse stages are in waiting at the wharf, and are 
soon filled and en route for Lake Champlain. The road is a disgrace to 
the State, and in wet weather is almost impassable; but it is only 4 M. 
long (fare by stage, 75 c.). The stream, which is the outlet of Lake 
George, falls about 240 ft. in its way to Lake Champlain (3-4 M. dis¬ 
tant), and near the chief falls is the small but increasing manufacturing 
village of Ticonderoga (2 inns). 2 M. beyond, with beautiful lake-views 
in front, the stage passes the ruins of the old fortress, and stops at the 
hotel and pier of the Champlain steamers. 


LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 


Route 53. 361 


Lake Champlain 

was called by the Iroquois Indians Caniaderi Guaranti (“The Gate of the 
Country ”), while the Abenaquis called it Petoubouque (“ The Waters that lie be¬ 
tween ” ; i. e. between their land and that of the Iroquois); and other Indians 
called it Saranac. For nearly half a century it was called Corlear’s Lake by the 
English and Dutch, in memory of a Dutch gentleman who was drowned there. In 
the summer of 1609 a small exploring party set out from Quebec under Samuel 
de Champlain,l the Governor of Canada, and ascended the St. Lawrence and 
Richelieu Rivers to the Chambly Rapids, where they met a war-party of Hurons 
All the Frenchmen save Champlain and two others were sent back to Quebec’ 
and those three joined the war-party. July 4, 1609, they entered the lake and 
on the following day they defeated 200 Iroquois at Crown Point, Champlain 
having shot their chief with his arquebus. The Hurons returned in triumph, 
with 60 scalps, and the valiant Frenchman, having found the road to the lake, 
was left to make several subsequent explorations and campaigns thereon. A 
series of war-parties traversed this route for nearly two centuries, and the lake 
became the scene of long campaigns and desperate battles. In 1690, 200 French 
regulars and a swarm of Indians passed up in canoes, and marched to Schenec¬ 
tady, which they destroyed with 60 of its people, returning with 27 prisoners, and 
40 horses laden with plunder. Shortly afterward Col. Schuyler and 200 Mohawks 
passed the lake and the Richelieu River, and destroyed the Canadian town of 
Sorel. In 1695 the chivalrous Count de Frontenac (a relative of Madame de 
Maintenon) launched a fleet of small craft, and passed down to Whitehall with 
700 Frenchmen and Algonquins. After a daring foray through the Mohawk Valley 
and nearly to the forts at Albany, he retired safely by Whitehall, pursued by 
Schuyler and the Hudson Valley people. The lake was held by the French and 
commanded by their fortifications until 1759, when Lord Amherst built a flotilla 
in South Bay, with a flag ship mounting 18 guns, in which Capt. Loring swept 
and won this inland sea. The military and naval operations around the lake will 
be considered in connection with the points of action. 

Lake Champlain is a large and picturesque sheet of water, running 
nearly N. and S. for 126 M., with a breadth of from 1 furlong to 15 
M. Its waters are clear, and abound in bass, pickerel, salmon-trout, and 
other fish, while the depth varies from 9 to 47 fathoms. There are many 
islands in the lake, the largest of which covers an area of 18,600 acres, 
and has a population of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and 
towns, there is one city on the lake, and the fleets used in commerce here 
number many thousands of tons. There is a large trade done between the 
rivers, the Hudson being joined to the lake by a canal 64 M. long (to 
Watervliet), while the Richelieu River affords an outlet to the St. 
Lawrence. The scenery of the Vermont shore is that of a quiet pastoral 
region, with the Green Mts. rising in the distant E. The New York shore 
presents a continual succession of barren and mountainous scenery, with 
occasional foot-hills of the Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and 
the parent peaks looming blue in the distance. 

There are four elegant steamers plying up and down the lake. On the arrival 
of the 3.15 p. m. and of the 6 a. m. trains from Montreal, steamers leave Rouse’s 

1 Champlain was born of a good family of the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became 
a naval officer, and afterward was attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1603 he ex¬ 
plored the St Lawrence River up to the St. Louis Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 
1635) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a 
brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that “ the salvation of one soul is of more im¬ 
portance than the founding of a new empire." He established strong missions among the 
Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 

16 



362 Route 53. FORT TICONDEROGA. 

Point at 6p. m. and at S.15 a. m.. arriving at Whitehall respectively at 5.45 a. m. 
and 4.45 p. m. Steamers leave Whitehall forthe north at 8.20 p. m. and 10.45 a. m., 
reaching Rouse’s Point respectively at 7 a. m. and 8.80 p. m. The boats leaving 
Whitehall at 10.45 and Rouse’s Point at 8.15, connect at Ticonderoga with stages 
for Lake George (4 M.), where passengers take the steamer to Caldwell, arriving 
there at 7 p. m. (Time-tables of 1872.) State-rooms are desirable on the night- 
boats, while a fine dinner ($1.00) is given on the day-boats. 

From Whitehall to Fort Ticonderoga (24 M.), and even to Crown Point, 
the lake is very narrow, and seems more like a fine river. During the 
first part of the journey the hills of Dresden are seen boldly looming on 
the W. and Black Mt. is seen beyond, while the “ Drowned Lands ” lie 
along the shore. The unimportant landings in Benson and Orwell (both 
in Vermont) are stopped at, and then the steamer reaches 

Fort Ticonderoga 


(Fort Ticonderoga Hotel, $3.00 a day, an old mansion house near the 
lake and landing). There is a railway-station about 1 M. N. of the fort, 
pertaining to a branch of the Vermont Central Railroad, which diverges 
from the main line at Leicester Junction. The new route from New York 
to Montreal (W. of L. Champlain) most of which is now in working order, 
passes near the fort on the W. Steamers going each way stop here twice 
daily, and the Lake George stages leave early each afternoon. The ruins 
of the fort crown the high hill near the steamboat pier, and are quite 
picturesque, and command extensive lake-views. The sally-port where 
the Green Mt. Boys entered, the old well, the crumbling walls of the 
barracks surrounding the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond 
the ramparts may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a 
deep and cavernous vault which it is surmised was the garrison bakery. 
On the high point S. E. of the fort is the well-preserved Grenadiers’ Bat¬ 
tery, erected to command the landing-place and to defend the long bridge 
to Mt. Independence. There is another small battery surrounded by a 
wet ditch, on the plain to the N., while the forests to the S. and W. are 
furrowed with intrenchments and lines of parallels, redoubts, and rifle- 
pits. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Independence is seen to the S. 
E., across the lake, and Mt. Defiance to the S. W., across the widenings 
of the outlet of Lake George. The latter summit is 800 ft. above the 
lake, and commands a noble view over its placid waters. It is best 
ascended by following the nearly obliterated military road of Bnrgoyne 
from Ticonderoga village (3 M. from the fort to the summit). Others, 
who are fond of the fine rowing which is obtained here, cross the bay in 
a boat, and scramble up through the forest to the summit. A road runs 
W. from Ticonderoga to Paradox and Scliroon Lakes. 


Ticonderoga is a modification of Cheonderogo, the old Iroquois name for this 
locality. It meant “sounding waters,” and applied especially to the falls on the 




FORT TICONDEROGA. 


Route 53. 363 


I outlet of Lake George. Capt. Glen is spoken of as holding this point with a 
picket of 33 men, in 1690, and in 1691 it was fortified by Col. Schuyler, who was 
then leading a force against La Prairie. In 1755 the Marquis de Montcalm occu¬ 
pied the place with a strong French army, and built extensive works, which he 
named Fort Carillon * (“chime of bells”), in allusion to the musical cascades 
in the vicinity. Gen. Abercrombie, having descended Lake George with 7,000 
1 British regulars and 9,000 provincial troops, attempted to storm the fort, July 8, 
1758. The scouts told Abercrombie that the fort was weak, and he knew that 
i reinforcements were hurrying to the garrison, so an assault was ordered. In ad- 
j vanning through the forest a detachment of 450 Frenchmen boldly engaged and 
! checked the van-guard. Israel Putnam and Lord Howe hastened up to the scene 
of the skirmish, and Howe was almost instantly killed. “ Plis manners and his 
virtues made him the idol of the army,” and “in him the soul of the army seemed 
to expire.” Massachusetts erected a monument to this gallant nobleman in 
Westminster Abbey. The French detachment was exterminated, but the Anglo- 
American troops became entangled in the forest and began to fire on each other, 
until they were withdrawn. 6,000 picked men were led out to storm the French 
works, which consisted of a breastwork (8 ft. high) and aboMs, defended by 4,000 
men with artillery. Four hours of fearless charging and bloody repulses ensued, 
and the few men who gained the parapet died there on the verge of victory. At 7 
in the evening, after three heroic assaults had failed, and several boats had been 
sunk on the lake with all on board by the artillery of the fort, the army re¬ 
treated, leaving nearly 2,000 men dead and wounded on the field. Lord John 
Murray’s Highland regiment (so distinguished at Fontenoy, 13 years before) lost J 
of its 'men and 25 officers. In March, 1758, Rogers’ Rangers were disastrously 
repulsed from the outworks of Carillon. In the summer of 1759 Lord Amherst 
advanced from the S. with 11,000 men, and the French garrison, weakened by the 
necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place after burning the 
barracks and exploding the magazine. 

At dawn, May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and taken by 85 New England 
men, who had crossed the lake on the previous evening. They were commanded 
by Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold, who led them through the gate and out on 
the parade, where (it is said) Allen aroused Capt. de la Place, the commandant, 
and demanded the surrender of the fort “in the name of the Great Jehovah and 
the Continental Congress.” 43 soldiers were surrendered with the fort, together 
with 176 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition. When Burgoyne advanced, 
in the summer of 1777, and Arnold’s fleet had been defeated on the lake, the de¬ 
fence of Fort Ticonderoga was intrusted to Gen. St. Clair, with 2,600 Continental 
troops, 900 militia, and 47 fortress-cannon. Fie destroyed the works toward Lake 
George, and strongly fortified Mt. Independence (remnants of the star-fort, and 
graves of hundreds who died of camp-distemper are now found in the young forest 
on the mt.). The bridge to Mt. Independence was a powerful floating structure, 
supported by 22 sunken piers and many floats. Burgoyne’s fleet was cannonaded 
and forced to keep out of gun-shot, but the British succeeded in getting cannon 
up on Mt Defiance, with which a plunging fire was opened on the fort. On the 
night of July 6, St. Clair evacuated the position, and would have escaped but that 
Gen. de Fermoy set fire to his quarters on Mt. Independence. The aroused enemy 
made rapid pursuit, defeated St. Clair’s rear-guard at Hubbardton, and took his 
artillery and stores at Whitehall, with 200 galleys and the remnant of Arnold’s 
fleet. Ten weeks later, Col. Brown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New England, 
captured the outworks of Ticonderoga, with 200 batteaux, 293 prisoners, 5 cannon, 
and a war-vessel, and delivered 100 American prisoners and a Continental flag. 
The fort was dismantled a few weeks later, and in 1780 was re-occupied by Gen. 
Haldimand Avith troops from Montreal. Since the Revolution, Ticonderoga has 
not been occupied, and for many years it suffered a gradual demolition, — its well- 
cut stone and brick being carried away by vessel-loads to the rising villages on 
the lake. It is now sealed from such invasions, and is becoming known as one of 
the classic and heroic grounds of America. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical 
Society had a field-day here, and there were 10,000 people present. The fort is on 
a peninsula rising 100 ft. from the lake, with water on three sides and swampy 
land on the fourth. The peninsula covers over 500 acres. 

1 “ La Drapeau de Carillon. ” is an old Canadian song, which may still be heard in Lower 
Quebec. , 



364 Route 53. 


CROWN POINT. 


The steamer passes through the railway-bridge soon after leaving Fort 
Ticonderoga. Beautiful views are occasionally gained of Camel’s Hump 
and Mt. Mansfield on the E., and the majestic Adirondack.? on the N. W. 
The boat stops at Larrabee’s Point in the Vermont town of Shoreliam, 
and then at Crown Point (Gunnison’s Hotel), 3 M. E. of Crown Point vil¬ 
lage, whence a road runs W. to Paradox and Schroon Lakes and the Adi- 
rondacks. A short distance beyond this landing, the steamer passes 
through the narrows between Chimney Point (on the E.) and 

Crown Point. 

The ruins of the fortress of Crown Point occupy the high promontory be¬ 
tween the lake and the broad Bulwagga Bay. The point is reached either 
by boat from Port Henry, or by carriage around the bottom of the bay 
(6-7 M.). There is a lighthouse on the point, but otherwise it is aban¬ 
doned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The immense ram¬ 
parts and ditches of the fort, its broad parade, and the thick stone walls 
of the barracks are richly worthy of attention, while from the walls of the 
northern bastions are obtained superb views of the Green Mts. in the E. 
and the rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake 
stretching away for many leagues in the N. The peninsula is about 1 M. 
wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, whose cut¬ 
ting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. 200 yards 
N. E. of the great fort, and near the water, are the ruins of the old French 
work, Fort Frederick. In the N. E. bastion is a well cut in the rock, 8 
ft. in diameter and 90 ft. in depth, which was cleared out by a stock com¬ 
pany in 1824, in the hope of finding treasure. There have been many ex¬ 
cavations here with this object, but only old iron and lead has yet been 
found. The ramparts are brilliant with blood-red thorn-apples (in their 
season) on great thickets of bushes. These peculiar trees are found no¬ 
where else in the State, and are said to have been brought from France. 

In July, 1009, Champlain, 2 Frenchmen, and 60 Hurons came up to this Point 
in 24 bark canoes, and here they landed and defeated the Iroquois, after passing 
the night in martial rites and singing the war-song. This was 2 months before 
Hendrick Hudson had discovered the noble river which has been named in his 
honor. In 1631 the French occupied Point a la Chevelure (opposite this place), 
built a stone fort and armed it with 5 cannon, and established a farming com¬ 
munity. In 1666 De Courcelles ascended by boats (with 600 men) to Crown Point, 
whence he marched into the Mohawk country, and on the retreat, some time af¬ 
ter, the force halted here several days for their stragglers to come up. The de¬ 
stroyers of Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the winter of 1090), but 
here they put on skates and escaped. In 1731 Fort Frederick was built here by 
the French, and named in honor of Frederick Maurepas, Premier of the kingdom. 
The shores were then more thickly settled than now, for many miles N. and S. 
In 1759, after the fall of Ticonderoga,the fort was abandoned, and, the Point being 
occupied by Lord Amherst, vast fortifications were erected here, which cost the 
British government $10,000,000. In 1773 the barracks took fire and the powder- 
magazine blew up, partly demolishing the works, and in 1775 Warner’s Green JVit. 
Boys captured the fort. 7,000 Americans retreated here from Canada in 1776, and 



BURLINGTON. 


Route 53. 365 


hundred^ died from small-pox. In 1777 Burgoyne made the fort his main depot 
1 of supplies in the advance on Albany. The fort built by Lord Amherst was £ M. 
around, and its ramparts were 25 ft. high and 25 ft. thick. It is still in good preser¬ 
vation. 

Just beyond Crown Point the steamer stops at Port Henry (two inns), 
a picturesquely situated village, with iron <works and mines. Bulwagga 
Bay is seen opening to the S. After leaving Port Henry, a fine view is 
| obtained of the Adirondacks in the W., Bald and Dix Peaks and the 
Giant of the Valley being foremost in the group. The steamer next 
touches at Westport (two inns), on the W. shore, with a road running W. 
into the Adirondacks, by Elizabethtown to White Face Mt. On the E. 
shore are seen the spires of the city of Vergennes, and the ruins of Fort 
Cassin, where Lieut. Cassin, of the U. S. Navy, repelled an attack on 
Macdonough’s fleet, which was being fitted out at Vergennes. Split 
: Rock Mt. frowns along the W. shore, and is mirrored in waters of un¬ 
known depth. Rounding the lighthouse at the head of the promontory, 
the steamer touches at Essex ( Royce's Hotel), whence another road leads 
into the Adirondacks. The course from Essex is N. E., passing the Four 
Brothers and Juniper Isles, and approaching and stopping at 

Burlington 

(* American House; Van Ness House), “ the Queen City of Vermont,” 
beautifully situated on a long, sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington 
Bay. It is the largest city in the State, having a population of about 
15,000, with 15 churches, 2 banks, 1 daily and 2 weekly newspapers. 
In 1798 Burlington had 815 inhabitants, and between 1860 and 1870 it 
gained 105 per cent in population. It became a city in 1865, and is now 
the third lumber-mart in America. Most of the lumber is brought from 
the Canadian forests, and sorted and planed here, after which it is sent by 
rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense quantities are loaded 
directly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) which convey them to 
distant ports. 40-50,000,000 ft. of lumber are yearly sent out from 
Burlington. The wharves and grounds about the freight station are 
usually covered with immense piles of plank and boards. Several of the 
churches are fine buildings, especially the Cathedral of St. Mary, a large 
and picturesquely irregular structure. St. Paul’s Episcopal Church is an 
old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained windows. This is the 
church of the Bishop, whose diocese (the State of Vt.) has 27 priests and 
2,655 communicants. There are also handsome Congregational and 
Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near the square in the 
centre of the city is a fine U. S. building (Post Office and Custom House), 
and the elegant Court House of Chittenden County. 

The University of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the sum¬ 
mit of Burlington Hill, 1 M. from the Bay and 367 ft. above it. This in- 





366 Route 53. 


BURLINGTON. 


stitution was incorporated in 1791, and began operations in 1800, the 
President being the only instructor for the first 6 years, when about 30 
students were entered here. Its connection with the State is but nominal, 
and has brought it no emolument since its foundation, when Vermont 
endowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. In 1813 the building 
was taken by the United States, and retained throughout the war for ail 
arsenal and barracks. In 1824 the buildings were burnt, and rebuilt in 
1825, the corner-stone being laid by Gen. Lafayette. The three buildings 
have been united in one, and surmounted by a bright, tin-covered dome. 
In 1871 the University had 16 instructors, 114 students, and 15,000 vol¬ 
umes in its library. There are about 900 alumni. The medical depart¬ 
ment had, in 1871, 5 instructors and 25 students, and in 1865 the State 
Agricultural College was united with the University. There are 50,000 
specimens in the natural history cabinets. From the dome of the Uni¬ 
versity a superb * view is enjoyed. 

On the W., Lake Champlain is seen from below Crown Point on the S. to Platts- 
burg on the N., with numerous islands surrounded by the bright waters which 
have become classic in American history. Beyond the lake the Adirondacks fill 
the horizon, over 60 peaks being visible on a clear day; prominent among which 
are McIntyre, Whiteface, and Marcy, the latter being the highest peak between 
the White and the Alleghany Mts. Lake Champlain is 10 M. wide here, and near 
the middle are seen the islets called the Four Brothers. The plains of Chittenden 
Co. are seen in the N. E. over the little village of Winooski, and in the E. are the 
stately Green Mts., the Verts Monts for which the State was named. Mt. Mans¬ 
field, Camel’s Hump, and other well-known peaks are plainly visible, with a vast 
expanse of farm-land filling the foreground. Burlington City is overlooked on 
the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset over the lake and 
the Adirondacks when seen from this point, or from the little park N. W. of the 
central square, is full of beauty. “ Splendor o landscape is the peculiar boast of 
Burlington,” said Pres. Dwight in 1798 ; and Fredrika Bremer speaks of the dis¬ 
tant “mountain forms picturesquely combined with a certain degree of grandeur 
and boldness.” The view looking W. towards a peak which she calls “ le lion 
couchant," she pronounced superior to any lake view which she had ever seen, ex¬ 
cepting only one on Lake Geneva. 

Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, in which Ethan Allen 
is buried, under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, and a short distance be¬ 
yond is the village of Winooski, at the lower falls on the Winooski River. 
Near this village is a romantic canon on the river, at the High Bridge, 
where the impetuous stream has cut a gorge through the solid rock 90 ft. 
deep and 70 ft. wide. 

Burlington is an academic city, having besides the University several 
fine schools, among which is the Female Seminary (established 1835), 
which has nearly 900 alumnae. The Seminary has handsome buildings on 
a hillside near the lake. The Vermont Episcopal Institute is on Rock 
Point, 2 - 3 M. from the city, and near the lake. It has a fine marble 
building in the collegiate Gothic architecture, with a small but elegant 
chapel, a massive tower, and a library which is rich in patristic literature. 
The theological department lias 5 professors and 56 students, with 231 


PLATTSBURG. 


Route 53. 3G7 


alumni, and is called the most expensive divinity-school in the Union. 
About 2 M. S. of the city is the U. S. Marine Hospital, fronting on the 
lalce. 

Burlington was settled about 1775, and named in honor of the Burling family 
(of New York), who were among the grantees. It lay on the route by the Winoo¬ 
ski Valley, which had been so often traversed by the northern Indians in their 
attacks on Mass. It was fortified and garrisoned by 4,000 troops in the War of 
1812, and in the War of 1861-5 sent many soldiers to the national armies. 

Stages leave Burlington daily for the rural towns of St. George and Hinesburg. 

Two trains daily leave Burlington for Montreal. From Burlington to Essex 
Junction it is 8 M. Essex to Montreal, see page 204. Distance, 103 M., in 5£-6 
houi’s. 

Leaving Burlington, the steamer runs N. W. across the lake to Port 
Kent (2 hotels), a small village under Mt. Trembleau, and important for 
its exportation of iron. The old Watson Mansion is seen on a hill over 
the village. Stages run from Port Kent to the Ausable Chasm, with its 
grand succession of cascades and gorges. The Adirondack and Ausable 
Houses are at Keeseville, near the Chasm. Stages also run to Baker’s 
Saranac Lake House (46 M. W.), while a road diverging to the S. W. at 
the Ausable Forks enters the mts. through Wilmington Notch and by 
White Face and Lake Placid. 6 - 8 M. N. of Port Kent the steamer 
passes between Valcour Island and the mainland. In this channel Ar¬ 
nold’s fleet, consisting of 15 vessels with 70 cannon, was attacked by a 
British squadron of 31 vessels. After a hot day’s battle, in which 2 of 
Arnold’s and 3 British vessels were sunk, the Americans tried to retreat 
by night, but were closely pursued. The flagship “ Congress ” was sur¬ 
rounded by hostile ships, but fought desperately for 4 hours, until the 
van and centre of the fleet had escaped. Then Arnold ran her and the 
attendant galleys ashore below Port Kent, and blew them up (Oct. 11, 
1776). Grand Isle, or South Hero, is now passed on the E., and the vil¬ 
lage of Plattsburg ( Fouquet's Hotel; Cumberland House) is reached. It 
is a flourishing place at the mouth of the Saranac River, and is the shire- 
town of Clinton County (N. Y.), and a garrisoned post of the U. S. Army. 
There is a railway from Plattsburg to Montreal (63^ M. ; trains in 4-|- 5 
hrs.); also to the Ausable River (20 M. ; trains in 1^-2 hrs.). The lat¬ 
ter road, with the stages which connect at the Ausable River, forms the 
best route to the Saranac and St. Regis Lakes, and the lofty central group 
of the Adirondack Mts. The Long, Raquette, Fulton, and Tupper Lakes 
are most easily reached by the Adirondack Railroad (from Saratoga). 

Sept. 7, 1814, Plattsburg was menaced by a British army of 14,000 men under 
Sir George Prevost, supported by a fleet of 16 vessels, with 95 guns and 1,000 men. 
The defence was conducted by Gen. Macomb, with 3.000 men in the village, and 
Commodore Macdonough, with a fleet of 14 vessels, 86 guns, and 880 men. When 
the British fleet rounded Cumberland Head for the attack, Macdonough was kneel¬ 
ing on his deck praying. A rooster, who had got loose in the hurry of prepara¬ 
tion, flew upon one of the “ Saratoga’s ” guns and crowed lustily, upon which the 
jyjg]} gave three cheers and went to work with a will. As the fleets met, the two 
flagships engaged each other, and the American “ Saratoga ” was sadly cut up by 



368 Route 54-. 


MONTREAL. 


tlie more powerful British vessel, the “ Confiance.” By a skilful manoeuvre Mac- 
donough swung his ship around, and presented the uninjured side and battery to 
the enemy, who was unable to imitate this action, and was speedily forced to 
yield. After 2^ hours of incessant cannonade, the battle was decided against the 
British, who lost all their vessels save a few row-galleys. In the mean time, Pre- 
vost was repulsed by the soldiers at Plattsburg, and lost heavily, besides being 
forced to abandon much of his artillery and stores. 

The steamer passes down the bay and rounds Cumberland Head, with 
Grand Isle on the E. The shores now become more level, and the mts. 
are only seen in retrospective views. The islands of North Hero and Isle 
La Motte, and the peninsula of Alburgh are passed on the E., and (25 M. 
N. of Plattsburg) the steamer stops at Rouse’s Point (see page 207). Two 
trains daily run from this place to Montreal (50 M.) in 2| hrs., following 
the Richelieu River to St. Johns (see page 208), and thence crossing the 
parishes of La Prairie and Longueil to Montreal. 


54. Montreal. 

Hotels. —St. Lawrence Hall, on Great St. James St. ; Ottawa House, Great 
Saint James St. ; Donnegana House, Notre Dame St. ; Albion Hotel, $1.50 a day, 
McGill St. 

Carriages. One-horse carriage, for 1-2 persons, 25c. a course (within the 
city), 50c. an hour ; for 3-4 persons, 40c. a course, 70c. an hour. Two-horse car¬ 
riages, for 1 - 2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour; for 3- 4 persons, 50c. a course, 
$1.00 an hour. 

Shops. The most attractive are on Great Saint James and Notre Dame Sts. 
American money is usually received at the reigning l'ates of exchange, but it is ad¬ 
visable to purchase sufficient Canadian money for the tour at some reputable 
bank. 

Horse-cars run across the city on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catharine Sts. ; also 
on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; also out St. Lawrence Main St. 

Railways. To Boston, by St. Albans, Concord, and Lowell (Route 29), 334 
M. (or by way of Fitchburg, 344 M.); to New York, by Rutland and Albany, 365 
M. (by Lake Champlain, 405 M.) ; to Quebec, 172 M. (in 7 hrs.) ; to Plattsburg, 
63 M. ; to Rouse’s Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 333 M. (14-15 hrs.); to Detroit(861 
M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.); to Ottawa, 164 M. Steamers run to all the St. Law¬ 
rence and Lake ports. 


In the year 1535 Jacques Cartier visited the triple-walled Indian village of Hoche- 
laga, and ascended the lofty hill behind it, which, from the beauty of its view, he 
named Mount Royal. The place was visited by Champlain in 1603, and was settled 
by a small colony of Frenchmen. A tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris 
heard celestial voices, bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college 
of priests at Mount Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Vir¬ 
gin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular 
accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought 
the Isle of Mount Royal, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. 
With the Lord of Maisonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the 
Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy Family 
under the name of “ Ville Marie de Montreal” (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Mai¬ 
sonneuve and his people landed at Montreal and raised an altar, before which, 
when high mass was concluded, the priest said, “You are a grain of mustard- 
seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are 
few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children 
shall fill the land.” The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1647, and in 1657 the Sulpi- 
cians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689,1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed 





























































































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MONTREAL. 


Route 54. 369 


the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the inhabitants, and a short time after Col. 
Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops from New York, leaving only the cita¬ 
del, which liis utmost efforts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 
men captured the city, which then had 4,000 inhabitants, and was surrounded by 
a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal 
with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 100 of his 
men. Gen. Prescott sent them to England as “banditti,” and Allen was impris¬ 
oned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was taken by the American 
army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1815, a brisk com¬ 
merce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 inhabitants. The 
completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this place, and its in¬ 
crease has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. 

• Montreal (125,000 inhabitants), the metropolis of the Dominion of 
Canada, and “ the Queen of the St. Lawrence,” is one of the most beauti¬ 
ful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at the confluence 
of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and 
which, from its fertility, has been called the garden of Canada. The St. 
Lawrence is 1-| M. wide opposite the city, and the whole river-front is 
lined with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, 
unequalled elsewhere in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. 
Petersburg. The commercial buildings in the city are generally of stone 
in plain and substantial architecture, while the number of fine public 
buildings is very large, f of the population are Catholics, most of whom 
are French, while the bright suburban villages are almost entirely in¬ 
habited by Frenchmen. Although Montreal is 800 M. from the sea, it is 
the port which receives the greater part of the importations to Canada, 
while its manufacturing interests are of great extent and importance. 

The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and St. James Sts., in which a statue of the Queen is to be placed. The 
Cathedral Buildings, St. James Hotel, Y. M. C. A. Building, and St. 
Patrick's Hall front on this square. The latter is an elegant and very 
extensive building belonging to the Irish population. Going eastward on 
Great St. James St., some fine banks, insurance and commercial buildings 
are passed, and opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank 
of Montreal (beyond St. Framjois Xavier St., the Wall St. of Montreal) 
the Place d'Armes is seen. Here is the lofty front of the Church of 
Notre Dame, the largest church on the continent, with seats for 8,000 
persons on the floor, and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255J ft. long and 
144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass, 64x32 ft. in 
size. The interior is not striking, and the pictures are poor. There are 
two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, in the 
simplest form of mediaeval Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime 
of bells, and in the other hangs “ Gros Bourdon,” the largest bell in 
America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (small 
fee to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of the 
city and its environs (especially of the river, the bridge, and islands), 
16 * N 


370 Route 54. 


MONTREAL. 


0 

Alongside tlie church is the ancient Seminary of St. Sulpice, on the site 
of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near, the site of the Notre 
Dame of 1671. The present church was built 1824-9, and was conse¬ 
crated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. Fronting on the Place 
d’Armes is the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge 
of Masons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame 
St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Con¬ 
vent of the Black Nuns. Farther on, the Court House is seen on the I;,— 
a stately stone building in the Ionic architecture (300x125 ft.), back of 
which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering 
50,000 square yards, and fronted by the great building of the Dominion 
Military School. Just beyond the Court House, the Jacques Cartier 
Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapidated 
monument to Nelson. The Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient 
French Government building) and the Institut Canadien (with a fine 
library) front on the Government Garden, at the head of this square. By 
the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the Bonsecours Market may 
be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built of stone, 
at a cost of $ 300,000. It is 3 stories high, has a dome, and presents an 
imposing front to the river. The curious French costumes and language 
of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some 
peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. 
Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000) 
which was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is the extensive 
Quebec Gate Barrack, on Dalhousie Square, while the Victoria Pier makes 
out into the stream towards St. Helen's Isle (a fortified depot of ammu¬ 
nition and war materiel). To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger 
Garden, with a small conservatory and several fountains, fronting on 
which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone in Early 
English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of 
Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. James Church (Catholic), in the 
pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dal¬ 
housie Square, on St. Mary St., is Molson’s College (abandoned) and St. 
Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson’s brewery 
and the Papineau Market and Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square 
to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the inter¬ 
secting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert buildings are rich and 
massive, while just beyond is the extensive St. Ann’s Market, on the site 
of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the un¬ 
popular Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mqb, who also 
drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt that building. 
Commissioners’ St. leads E, by St. Ann’s Market and the elegant Custom 


MONTREAL. 


Route 54. 371 


House to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads to 
the W. to the great masonry of the Lachine Canal Basins and the vicinity 
of the Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver Hall Hill lead N. from Victoria Square, 
passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The 
armed congregation repulsed the assailants twice, and then the troops 
restored peace, 40 men being killed or seriously wounded. Just above is 
the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Uni¬ 
tarian), with St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to 
the r., Lagauchetiere St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic 
building, 240 ft. long by 90 ft. wide, accommodating 5,000 persons, and 
adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow 
lancet windows are filled with stained glass. A short distance farther, 
on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary’s College 
(Jesuit), near the front of the Church of the Gesu. The nave of this 
church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich composite columns, and the tran¬ 
septs are 144 ft. long, while the walls are covered with fine frescos. 

Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless 
Lamb, above which is the Nativity. Against the columns at the crossing of the 
nave and transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, 
St. Luke with a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave 
are frescos of St. Thomas Repentant, the -Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and 
Child amid angelic choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of 8 saints 
of the Order of Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco 
of the Trinity, near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first 
communion from St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. 
is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ’s 
Appearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ Blessing Little Children. 
Over St. Joseph’s Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father, on 
the l*. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka Receiving Communion 
from Angels. On the 1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki 
(Japan) ; on the r. is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above 
is the Raising of Lazarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catharine St., one soon reaches Christ 
Church Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic archi¬ 
tecture in America. It is built of Caen and Montreal stone, is cruciform, 
and a stone spire 224 ft. high springs from the centre of the cross. The 
choir has a fine window and some carved stalls, and is laid with encaustic 
tiles, while the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft, high) is sustained by 
columns whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian plants. Near the 
Cathedral is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, used also for the diocesan 
library, and the house of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) 
is in the same vicinity. A short distance N. is McGill College, or Uni¬ 
versity, which was endowed in 1814 and opened in 1828. It is below the 
reservoir on Mount Royal, from which a charming view of the city and 
river may be gained. Some distance W. of the college, and fronting on 
the same street (Sherbrooke), is the vast and imposing Seminary of St. 
Sulpice, for the education of Roman Catholic priests. On St. Catharine, 




372 Route 51 


THE LACHINE RAPIDS. 


near St. George St., is the Asylum for the Blind, with a chapel richly and 
elegantly decorated and frescoed, and built in a light and delicate form of 
Romanesque architecture. W. of the Cathedral is the Erskine Church 
(Presbyterian), and also the Church of St. James the Apostle, a graceful 
Gothic building with an admirable tower and spire. Near the cemetery 
on Dorchester St. are the following churches, — the Wesleyan Methodist, 
a graceful building in the English Gothic style ; the American Presby¬ 
terian, an exact copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and the 
Church of St. George (Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic 
architecture, with deep transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, 
and fine school-buildings attached. On the E. side of this square is the 
Bishop's Palace , near which are the slowly rising walls of the immense 
new Catholic Cathedral, which is to be built on the model of St. Peter’s 
at Rome, though smaller. Farther to the W. on Dorchester St., on the 
r., is seen the vast, cruciform building of the Gray Nunnery (founded 
1692), with a Foundling Hospital and a Refuge for the infirm. Mont Ste. 
Marie is the large building opposite (across Dorchester St.), which was 
erected for a Baptist College, but has become a ladies’ boarding-school 
under the Congregational Nuns (of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the 
city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. The order was founded by Marguerite 
Bourgeoys in 1659). Farther E. on Dorchester St. are the fine buildings 
of St. Paul’s and the Knox Presbyterian Churches. There are many 
other fine churches and public buildings in the city, and the streets toward 
Mount Royal are lined with attractive villas. 

There are pleasant excursions from Montreal to Monklands and the 
Isle Jesus; to Hochelaga, the vast Convent of the Holy Name of Mary, 
and Longue Pointe; to the Tanneries, Cote St. Paul, and Lachine, by 
carriage; but the two favorite trips are to the mountain and to the rapids. 
“ Around the Mountain," it is 9 M., by going out St. Lawrence Main St., 
by the immense H6tel Dieu, and up the long slopes to the pretty village 
of Cote des Neiges. Ascending the mountain thence, a glorious view is 
soon revealed, embracing the city, a great expanse of the river, with the 
bridge, St. Helen’s Isle, and Longueuil, and the blue peaks of Vermont 
far away in the S. On the slope of Mount Royal is the Cemetery, which 
is entered by stately portals, and shows some very creditable monuments, 
— especially those of the Molson family. 

The leadline Rapids are visited by taking the 7 a. m. train (at the Bonaven- 
ture Station,) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist 
returns through the rapids to Montreal (arriving about 9 a. m.). After taking a 
pilot from the Indian village of Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. 

“ Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye; waves are lashed 
into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which 
they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a 
storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single 
rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, 
did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the 


MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 


Route 55. 373 


crash could sound upon the ear; did she even diverge in the least from her course 
— if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, she would be 
instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute preci¬ 
pice of waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown 
high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the 
wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on 
the calm, unruffled bosom of ‘ below the rapids.’” 

The steamer, just before reaching the city, passes under the * Victoria 
Bridge, the longest and costliest bridge in the world. It consists of 23 spans of 
242 ft. each (the centre one being 330 ft. long) resting on 24 piers built of heavy 
blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron-riveted, with sharp wedge-faces to 
the down current. The tubes containing the track are 19 ft. high by 1(4 ft. wide, 
and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which’ 
with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to 
grade, and over 1J M. from shore to shore. The bridge was begun in 1854, and 
finished in 1859 ; it used up 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost 
$6,300,000. The view of Montreal from the bridge is one of the most beautiful 
imaginable. 


55. Montreal to Quebec.—The St. Lawrence River. 

The large and elegant royal mail steamers of the Richelieu Company leave the 
Richelieu Pier (foot of Jacques Cartier Square) at 7 p. m. daily, and arrive at Que¬ 
bec early the next morning. During the summer of 1872 a steamer of the same 
line ran twice or thrice weekly between the two cities, leaving at early morning. 
It was thought that this day-line would be continued, and if it is, it should be 
preferred to the evening boats, as enabling the tourist to see the river and its vil¬ 
lages. Fares to Quebec, first class (with meals and state-room), $3.00; second 
class, $1.00. The Grand Trunk Railway runs trains to Quebec in 8-9 hrs., by 
way of St. Hyacinthe, Richmond, and Arthabaska. 

As the steamer passes out into the stream, the fortified island of St. 
Helen is seen in front, and fine views of the Victoria Bridge, Mount Royal, 
and the city are gained. Just below St. Helen’s Isle, on the r. bank, is 
Longueuil, where there are many villas pertaining to wealthy city people. 
A short distance below, on the 1. bank, is Longue Pointe, with the Con¬ 
vent des Soeurs de la Providence, and at 9 M. from Montreal Pointe aux 
Trembles is passed, with its ancient village, which dates from 1674. The 
steamer then enters the channels between the low, marshy islands of Bou- 
cherville, famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here 
at the close of winter. Passing Varennes on the r., with the bold Beloeil 
Mt. in the S., the mouth of the Riviere des Prairies is seen on the 1., with 
the village of L'A ssomption beyond. There are valuable mineral springs 
near Varennes, from which a steamer runs to Montreal four times a week. 
The river now passes between the parishes of Cap Michael, Vercheres, 
Contrecour, and St. Ours, on the r. bank, and St. Sulpice, La Valtrie, La 
Noraye, and Dautraye on the 1. bank. The spires of Berthier are seen 
on the 1., as another cluster of islands is threaded, and the town of Sorel 
is reached. This place occupies an important position at the confluence 
of the Richelieu and St. Lawrence Rivers, and was fortified in 1665 by 
Gov. De Tracey. For many years it was the summer residence of the 
Governors, and on being visited by Prince William Henry of England (af- 


,374 Route 55. THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


terwards William IV.) an abortive attempt was made to change its name 
to William Henry. The place has about 3,000 inhabitants, and is built 
around a large square, near which are fine Roman and Anglican churches. 
The hunting and fishing in this vicinity are of provincial fame. The 
steamer now passes another archipelago, and at 5 M. below Sorel enters 
Lake St. Peter, a broadening of the river 25 M. long and 9 M. wide. The 
lake is shallow, but has a deep and narrow channel (partly artificial), 
which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. 
Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating 
islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumber¬ 
men. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to 
pieces. Soon after entering this broad expanse, the mouth of the St. 
Francis River is seen on the r., with the village of St. Francis. Below 
the shores of Lussaudiere and St. Antoine, the mouth of the Nicolet 
River appears on the r., and farther down (on the 1.) is the village of 
Fond du Lac. Three Rivers is now approached, and the steamer stops 
midway between Montreal and Quebec. This city was founded (as Trois 
Rivieres) in 1618, and has at present 6,000 inhabitants, Avith a large trade 
in lun. ber, which is brought down the St. Maurice River. The Catholic 
Cathedral, the Ursuline Convent, and other fine buildings adorn the city. 

The St. Maurice Paver waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, 
abounding in lakes and in forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness 
have been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where 
the lumber is sawed. About 30 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Shaw- 
anegan, where the great river jilunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft., be¬ 
tween the lofty rocks called La Grand-Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above 
are the Falls of the Grand-Mere. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and 
guides at Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageurs 
or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in 
pursuit of the larger varieties of game. Three Rivers is widely known for its 
foundries, where bog-iron ore is converted into car-wheels and stoves. 

Opposite Three Rivers is Doucet’s Landing, at Becancour , the terminus 
of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway (see Route 40), and to the N. E., 
across the St. Maurice, is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine. 
The steamer passes Gentilly (on the r.) and stops at Batiscan , 17 M. be¬ 
low Three Rivers, then passes Ste. Marie and Ste. Anne, on the 1., and 
St. Pierre, on the r. Lotbiniere, on the r., is seen, and then the village 
of St. Croix, standing on Pointe Platon. Point aux Trembles marks the 
transition from the low shores toward Lake St. Peter to the lofty summits 
of the Laurentian Mts. St. Augustin (1.) and St. Antoine (r.) are next 
passed, and then the mouth of the Clxaudiere, Cap Rouge, and the village 
of St. Jean Chrysostome. The heights of Point Levi now appear on the 
r., and on the 1. are the walls and spires of Quebec. Travellers by the 
night-boat should make arrangements to be awakened an hour before 
reaching the end of the route, as the view of Quebec from the river at 
early morning is a thing which can never be forgotten. 



QUE15EC. 

1 C'otho/ir Cilhfdral 

113. 

2 Gnrjliean 

114. 

3 Wester/art Church 

113. 

4 Pirshjlcrian " 

114. 

3 Si. John <CaJ,hj r 

(13. 

6 Si. Mollhcn . 

1)3. 

7 Sf. Saureur.-.. _ 

A.2. 

8 iSV. Koch _". 

C2. 

9 Notre Dame ties 

Viet our 3 . . . 

1.4. 

If) (Irr/ik'shofis Prt/aec 

113. 

11 Seminary.... 

11.3. 

12 Jjtrval llniremit if . 

113. 

13 HotelDieu CeitTenl 

11.3. 

H Hi-.ur/ieie r .. 

11. 

15 Crap Suffers 1 _ 

1)3. 

16 Cmfiirqofmtw 

r.2. 

17 General Hospital 

B.2. 

18 .Marine _. 

(11. 

19 „ Memo (oflegs 

O. 

20 1 arlieunenl Ilf use 

K3. 

21 Court House. _ 

E.4. 

22 fronu lands Drp. 

11.4. 

23 Hu/h School ... 

E.4. 

24 Cmrnotv Carden _ 

11.4. 

23 CustomIlousr ... 

1.3. 

26 Cftmnp/mn Market 

F.4. 

27 Jail ._.— 

11.5. 


28 Wol/h's Mauimenl. IL). I 

29 hncrirun (insult tic. —EH. 

JO St. John 's (rale U3. 

31 iS 't.ljOULS I ki. 

32 Prcscoll . h.I'f. 

13 Hop* _MLS. 

34 Palace . . E.3. 

33 ,V. LouisIJulel E.4. 

36 Slaj/nronn ... 11.3. 

37 • Jr null Buildings ..E.3. 

38 Post Office __L.3, 

























































































































































I 






• t 










' - 











- 



































.. 


























. 












































’ 









. - 


















QUEBEC. 


Route 56. 375 


56. Quebec. 

Arrival. If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take the hotel car¬ 
riage to the Upper Town. The caleche is not adapted to carrying luggage. 

Hotels. The St. Louis Hotel (near the Durham Terrace) is a large, old house, 
accommodating 4-500 guests, at $3-4.00 a day. The Stadacona House (on Pal¬ 
ace St.) is less pretentious and expensive. Henchey’s Hotel, opposite the Angli¬ 
can Cathedral, is quiet and moderate (for gentlemen travelling en garqon). In the 
Lower Town is Blanchard’s Hotel, and several others, two of which are French. 

Carriages in every variety may be procured at the stables, but the usual mode 
of riding is by the caleclie, a singular and usually very shabby-looking vehicle, 
perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front. 
These vehicles are drawn by homely but hardy little horses, and are usually driven 
by French Canadians. 1-2 persons may engage a caleche to go to the Montmo- 
renci Falls, Lorette, or Cap Rouge, for $2.00. Horse-cars traverse the riverward 
streets in the Lower Town. 

Heading-rooms. The Y. M. C. Association, just off Fabrique St., near the 
Jesuit buildings, and the elegant library of the Quebec Historical Society (in 
Morrin College) are open to the visits of strangers. 

Language. More than half of the citizens of Quebec, and nearly all of the 
inhabitants of the surrounding villages, speak French as their mother-tongue. 
Very many of them have a knowledge, more or less perfect, of the English lan¬ 
guage, while many of the British citizens speak French also. The language in its 
written forms (as seen in the numerous French books, magazines, and newspapers 
published in Quebec) is correct and intelligible, but the speech of the lower classes 
and of the rustics is difficult and often impossible to understand. It is not 
Parisian or even Rouennaise French, but a strong provincial dialect, brought 
from the rural districts of Normandy in the 17th century, and enriched by the 
addition of later local idioms. (The sharia, dissyllabic cry with which the caleche- 
drivers urge their horses forward, is “Marche-done.”) 

The Post-Office is on St. Anne St. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique 
and St. John Sts., and about the French Cathedral. 

Railways. The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point 
Levi, 317 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, 586 M. from New York, and 
2,684 M. from New Orleans. There is also a railroad of most primitive construc¬ 
tion, with its terminus in the Banlieue, which runs slow and infrequent trains up 
the valley of the St. Charles for 20 - 25 M. To Boston, see Routes 24 and 29, or 
Routes 40 and 37. 

Steamers. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi every 15 minutes ; also thrice daily 
to the Isle of Orleans ; and at varying intervals to the French river-towns. Semi¬ 
weekly steamers run to the Saguenay River ; fare to Cacouna and return, $ 3 00 ; 
to Tadousac, $4.00; to Ha Ha Bay and return, $7.00. Large steamers leave' 
weekly for the Gulf ports ; fares to Father Point (with meals and state-room), 
$4.00 (175 M-) or 2d class, $2.00; to Gaspe (443 M.), 1st class, $10.00; 2d 
class, $4.00; by Perce and Paspebiac to Dalhousie, Chatham, and Newcastle, 
$ 14.00 ; to Shediac, $15.00 ; and to Pictou, 1,021 M. from Quebec, $16.00. The 
large river-steamers of the Richelieu line leave for Montreal daily. The Allan line 
of transatlantic steamers despatches one ship weekly during the summer and 
early fall. 


Quebec, “the Gibraltar of America,”’ and the second city in the 
Dominion of Canada, is situated at the confluence of the St. Charles and 
St. Lawrence Rivers, 400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and 180 M. 
from Montreal. It has over 60,000 inhabitants, and its chief business is 
in the handling and exportation of lumber, of which $ 5-7,000,000 worth 
is sent away annually. There are miles of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts which 
come down from the northern forests. A very considerable- export trade 




376 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


in grain is also done here, and the city derives much benefit from being 
the terminus of transatlantic lines of shipping, which makes it a depot of 
immigration. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded 
by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the 
Upper and Lower Towns, the former being enwalled and strongly fortified 
and standing on a bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the con¬ 
tracted strips between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, 
crooked, and often very steep, while the houses are generally built of 
cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. 

Jacques Cartier set sail from St. Malo, in the spring of 1535, with three well- 
armed vessels, and steering boldly to the westward, he entered the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence and gave it its present name, in honor of the saint on whose festival- 
day he had made the discovery. He ascended to Stadacona, an Indian village on 
the site of Quebec (whose present name is derived from “Quel bee 1” the Norman 
sailors’ shout on seeing the lofty precipice, or else from “ Quebeio,” an Algon¬ 
quin word meaning strait.) After ascending to Montreal, Cartier returned to 
Quebec and wintered there, and in 1640 a fort was erected near Charlesbourg. The 
place was then deserted until 1608, when Champlain founded Quebec, and built a 
fort on its present site. Franciscan monks came to the new colony in 1615, and 
in 1644 a party of Jesuits arrived. In 1628 Sir David Kirk (or Kertk) attacked 
the place, and in 1629, after a long blockade, the English fleet took Quebec. It 
was restored to France in 1632, and in 1635 Governor Champlain died here and 
was buried in the Lower Town. In 1665 a large cargo of ladies arrived from 
France, and were all disposed of in marriage within a fortnight. In 1672 the 
Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely repulsed 
an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps’s fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a 
cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral’s 
standard and eight vessels. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck 
on the terrible cliffs of Cape Desespoir. Strong fortifications were built soon 
after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The 
Marquis de Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into 
fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary 
action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe’s army drifted up stream on the rising 
tide, and succeeded in sealing the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were fired 
upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across 
the St. Charles the British lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in 
the short but desperate battle which ensued both the generals were mortally 
wounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French 
army, which was largely composed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La 
Guienne, Royal Roussilon, Bearn, La Sarre, and Languedoc) gave way, and 
retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. 

In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family —Dukes of Venta- 
dour — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch 
Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foye, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, 
hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the 
Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and 
hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now 
laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John’s Gate) 
from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannon¬ 
ade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from 
England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the 
Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of “ 1,500 
leagues of frozen country.’’ In the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the 
city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). 
The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted 
by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive 
city-walls; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31, 1775. 
In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town 


QUEBEC. 


Route 56. 377 


from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and 
Virginians over two or three barricades. The Montreal Bank and several other 
massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, who guarded theapproaclies 
with such a deadly fire that Arnold’s men were forced to take refuge in the ad¬ 
joining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. 
Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Continentals N. along 
Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, 

; after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate 
and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. 

| from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attack¬ 
ing column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all probability Mont¬ 
gomery would have, crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold’s men by attacking 
the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would have 
escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the 
fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired 
the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his 
officers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in 
panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold’s men, who 
were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were 
made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the 
place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in 
Wolfe’s army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew 
the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the 
capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-capital, 
until the founding of Ottawa City. In 1845.2,900 houses were burnt and the 
place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber- 
trade which is still its specialty. 

“ There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, 
and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the 
surrounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the 
airy site of the citadel and town calls'to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh. Que¬ 
bec may be best described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two 
centuries ago had been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and 
placed on the summit of Cape Diamond.” 

“ Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A 
military town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and perma¬ 
nently built, — stone its sole material; environed, as to its most important parts, 
by walls and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon;. . . . founded 
; upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country; 
3 - 400 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying 
fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle 
of a crowded seaport; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down 
almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of 
Europe, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of an European capital, and yet in 
winter smarting with the cold of Siberia ; governed by a people of different 
language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and 
yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, 
civil and religious : such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in 
the city of Quebec.” (Prof. Silliman.) 

“ Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a 
commercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an 
eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an 
American city inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garri¬ 
soned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient 
institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional 
government; an European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and 
still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; 
a city with‘about the same latitude as Paris, while successively combining the 
torrid climate of southern regions with the severities of an hyperborean winter; 
a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) 
missions are still uninterrupted alongside of the undertakings of the Bible Society, 
and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuge under the 
aegis of British Puritanism.” (X. Marmier’s “ Lettres sur I’Amerique,” 1860.) 




378 Route 56. THE DURHAM TERRACE. 


“Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates 
and posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp 
French roofs of burnished tin, like those of Liege ; processions of the Host ; altars 
decked with flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of 
the British linesman, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are 
graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, 

Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France. 

There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They 
number twenty times the thousands that they did 100 years ago. The American 
soil has left their physical type, religion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. 
They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on 
Sundays, — as gaylyas once did their Norman sires, — and keep up the Jleur-cle-lys 
and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the French are the Lower 
Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here.” (Sir 
Charles Dilke.) 

The Durham Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and 
stands on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620. The old cMteau 
was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and 
governor’s palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by fire. 
The terrace is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpass¬ 
ing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower 
Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the 
lofty, fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River 
winds away up its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch 
off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while beyond are seen the 
farms of L’ Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Ves- 
sels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, 
and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond 
and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentian Range, with Cap Tour- 
mente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is the 
favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the 
late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrace 
is a plain stone structure called the Old Chateau, which was built about 
1780 for the British governors. 

“There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the terrace at Que¬ 
bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the 
guard-ships’ masts. Acre upon acre of timber comes floating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights ; and 
beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, em¬ 
barking the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere 
to be seen.” (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

The Place d'Amies is a pretty little park between the Terrace and the 
Anglican Cathedral, a large, plain building of stone, which has a superb 
communion-set (presented by George III.), and within which is the tomb 
of Charles, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Daubigny, Avho died while 
Governor-General of Canada (1819). The monument of Jacob Mountain, 
D. D., first Anglican Bishop, is in the chancel. Dr. Mountain was in the 
presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should 



AROUND THE RAMPARTS. Route 56. 379 


appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, “ If your 
; Majesty had faith, there would be no difficulty.” “ How so ? ” said the 
king. Mountain answered, “ If you had faith, you would say to this 
Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done.” It 
was. The Cathedral, rectory, and Chapel of All'Saints, stand on ground 
I formerly occupied by the Franciscan (Recollet) monks, and on the same 
tract the Court House is built, fronting on St. Louis St. Beyond the 
Court House is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old buildings of 
the Commissariat and Crown Lands Departments, and the St. Louis 
Hotel. 

Around the Ramparts. 

The Street des Carrieres runs S. from the Place d’Armes to the Govern¬ 
or's Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bearing 
the elegant and classic inscription : 

Mortem. Virtus. Communem. 

Famam. Historia. 

Monumentum. Posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
; Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to 
^ the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be 
; seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., and the Chalmers (Pres.) 
Church on the 1., and turning to the 1. on St. Louis St., the St. Louis 
Gate is soon reached. A road turning to the 1. just inside the Gate leads 
through deep, entrenched passages commanded by powerful batteries, and 
| "by the Chain Gate to the Dalhousie Gate of The Citadel. This immense 
fortification covers 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of 
Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), 
which is said to be “ the coldest place in the British Empire.” Since the 
evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been gar¬ 
risoned by provincial volunteers, and visitors are usually permitted to 
1 pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The * view from the 
most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) sur- 
: passes that from the Durham Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent 
in the world. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate, 
and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John’s 
Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the ancient 
ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. are the Stadacona Club House, the 
Congregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; while the 
suburban ward of Montcalm is on the 1. St. John’s Gate is a modern 
structure, and is both strong and graceful. While rallying his soldiers 



380 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


just outside of this Gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded 
(in 1759), and Col. Brown (of Mass.) attacked the Gate while Arnold and 
Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. The ramparts must be 
left here, and D’Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the 
Artillery Barracks (built by the French in 1750) to the Palace Gate, 
close to which is the Hdtel Dieu Convent. This institution was founded 
by the Duchesse d’Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Richelieu) in 1639. In 1654 
one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during 
the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are 30 - 40 nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attend¬ 
ance by the best doctors of the city. Among the pictures here are, Virgin 
and Child, by Coypel; Nativity, Stella; St. Bruno, by LeSueur, “the 
Raphael of France.” From Palace Gate to Hope Gate (900 ft.) the ram¬ 
parts may be followed, with fine views over the two rivers, the Isle of 
Orleans, and the Laurentian Mts. The walls are built on a lofty cliff, and 
are very thin, but have lines of loopholes and are guarded by bastions. 
Hope Gate was built in 1784, and has well-fortified approaches. The 
ramparts may be followed from this point to the Parliament House, pass¬ 
ing the stately Laval University and the Grand Battery, where 22 32- 
pounders command the river, and whence a pleasing view may be ob¬ 
tained. The Parliament House is on the site of Champlain’s fort and 
the ancient Episcopal palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose 
glory has departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. A short distance 
beyond is the Prescott Gate, the main avenue of communication between 
the Upper and Lower Towns, and Durham Terrace is just S. of the Gate. 

The Market Square is nearly in the centre of the Upper Town, and 
presents a curious and interesting appearance on market-mornings, when 
the French peasantry bring in their farm products. On the E. is the 
Roman Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which was built in 1666, 
destroyed by cannonading from Wolfe’s batteries in 1759, and rebuilt soon 
after. Its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely, but the interior is 
more pleasing,- and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well 
adorned, and the choir of boys from the Seminary is much esteemed. 
The most notable pictures are, * * The Crucifixion (“the Christ of the 
Cathedral,” the finest painting in Canada), by Van Dyck (on the first pillar 
1. of the altar) ; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti; the Annunci¬ 
ation, Restout; the Baptism of Christ, HalU ; the Pentecost, Vignon; 
Miracles of Ste. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels Waiting on Christ, Restout 
(in the choir) ; the Nativity, copy from Annibale Caracci ; Holy Family, 
Blanchard. The remains of Champlain, the heroic explorer and founder 
and first Governor of Quebec, are in the Cathedral. Alongside of the 
Cathedral are the ancient, rambling, and extensive buildings of the Semi- 


QUEBEC. 


Route 56. 381 


nary, which was founded in 1663 by Francis de Montmorenci Laval, 
Bishop of Quebec from 1658 to 1688. This institution is divided into Le 
j Grand Seminaire and Le Petit Seminaire ; the first being a school of 
theology, and the second being devoted to literature and science (for boys), 
j There are about 400 students, who may be distinguished in the streets by 
I their uniform. 

The Seminary Cliapel lias some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the 
entrance): The Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, La Grenhe; The Virgin At- 
,] tended by Angels, Dieu; The Crucifixion, Monet; The Hermits of the Thebaid, 
Guiliot; The Vision of St. Jerome, D’Hullin; * The Ascension, Phillipe de Cham- 
j pagne; The Burial of Christ, Hutin; (over the altar) The Flight into Egypt, 
Vanloo; above which is a picture of angels, Lebrun; The Trance of St. Anthony, 
Parrocel d’Avignon ; The Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne; St. Peter Freed from 
| Prison, De la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, Halle; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. 
j Champagne; Adoration of the Magi, Bonnieu. “ The Chapel on the r. of the chief 
altar contains the relics of St. Clement; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus.” 

Adjoining the Seminary is its goodly child, the Laval University, 
whose main building is of cut stone, 305 ft. long and 5 stories high, and 
cost $ 240,000. The museum of Huron antiquities, the collection of Ca- 
’ nadian birds, the library of nearly 50,000 volumes, the fine scientific in¬ 
struments, the great hall of convocation, and the far-viewing, enrailed 
promenade on the roof are all worthy of a visit. The extensive dormi¬ 
tories and the medical college occupy substantial stone buildings in the 
vicinity. 

On the W. side of the Market Square is the great pile of buildings 
which were partly erected in 1646, for the Jesuits’ College. The college 
was suspended in 1759 by Gen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, 
and in 1809 the property reverted to the Crown, on the death of the last 
of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings have since been used for barracks, 
when used at all. Passing St. Anne’s Market and the Anglican Cathedral, 
Garden St. runs S. to the Ursuline Convent, which was founded by 
Madame de la Peltrie in 1639. Part of the present buildings were built 
in 1686, and with the gardens and offices they cover 7 acres. There are 
40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in em¬ 
broidery, painting, &c. The parlor and chapel are open to visitors, and 
in the latter are some good paintings : * Mater Dolorosa, Van Dyck ; The 
Saviour, Champagne; Christ in Simon’s House, Champagne; and a 
small picture by Restout. Within a grave made by a shell which burst 
in this chapel, during Wolfe’s bombardment, is buried “ the High and 
f Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of Montcalm,” and over his remains 
is the inscription, “ Honneur a Montcalm ! Le destin en lui derobant la 
victoire l’a recompense par une mort glorieuse ! ” Morrin College (on St. 
Anne St.) is a neat stone building, in one of whose halls is the extensive 
and valuable library of the Quebec Historical Society (open to the pub¬ 
lic). There are several other churches and public buildings among the 






382 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


narrow streets of the Upper Town. St. Patrick's, on St. Helen St., has 
a neat Ionic interior, and the church, manse, and school of St. Andrew 
(Presbyterian) occupy stone buildings on St. Anne St. At the corner of 
St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, which is 
nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec as does the 
Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen by night by some roystering 
naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was returned many 
months after, enclosed in a coffin. In the front of the Post-Office, on 
Buade St., is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded, under which 
is the inscription : — 

“ Je suls un chien qui ronge l'os ; (“ I am a dog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeant je prend mon repos. While I gnaw I take my repose. 

Un temps viendra qui n’est pas venu The time will come, though not yet, 

Que je mordrais qui m aura mordu.” When I will bite him who now bites me.”) 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him; but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Philibert’s house, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by ^hilibert’s brother, and after a severe conflict 
was killed at Pondicherry. Near the Post-Office is the large and elegant 
building of the Bishop's Palace. Mountain St. descends through the 
Prescott Gate to the Lower Town, with the steep, crowded, and pictu¬ 
resque Champlain Steps on the r., near whose foot the remains of Cham¬ 
plain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. 

The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. from the city walls to 
the line of the Martello Towers. In the latter ward is the large Church 
of St. John (Catholic), and also the Gray Nunnery (70 sisters), with a 
lofty and elegant chapel. Above the Nunnery and fronting on the glacis 
is the Convent of the Christian Brothers. The steep street called Cote 
d’Abraham descends thence to the Jacques Cartier Ward of the Lower 
Town, beyond which, on the banks of the St. Charles, is the Marine 
Hospital, a large and imposing modern building in Ionic architecture 
(with 6 acres of grounds) ; and the General Hospital, an extensive pile 
of buildings, founded by De Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1693), 
and conducted by 40-50 nuns of St. Augustine. The churches of St. 
Sauveur (in the Banlieu) and St. Roch are large structures, with many 
inferior pictures, and the Black Nunnery is near the latter. St. Koch’s 
Ward is mostly devoted to manufactories and to shipbuilding (on the St. 
Charles shore). St. Paul St. runs E. between the fortified cliffs and the 
river, to St. Peter St., which turns S., and near which are the chief banks, 
wholesale houses, and harbor offices. At the neighboring wharves are the 
ships and ocean-steamers, with many small and dirty steamboats which 
ply to the neighboring river-towns. The Custom House (near Pointe a 
Garcy) and the Champlain Market are in this quarter, and are fine stone 


CAP ROUGE. 


Route 56. 383 


buildings. The Church of Notre Dame des Victoires is a plain old struc¬ 
ture near the market, which dates from before 1690. It was so named, 
and was decorated with trophies, in gratitude for the defeat of Sir Wm. 
Phipps’ attack in 1690, and the terrible*disaster to Admiral Walker s ex¬ 
pedition at Cape Desespoir. The Queen’s Fuel Yard is below the Palace 
Gate, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by 
Bigot, 13th and last Royal (French) Intendant. Here he lived in all the 
feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he ex> 
torted from the oppressed province. In 1775 the palace was captured by 
Arnold’s Virginia riflemen, who so greatly annoyed the garrison that the 
buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from the batteries of 
the Upper Town. Under the plea of “ municipal improvements,” it is 
stated that considerable portions of the old city walls are now (1873) 
being removed. 


Environs of Quebec. 

Point Levi is across the river from Quebec, and is a rapidly growing 
place, where the Grand Trunk Railway terminates. Upon the steep 
bluffs are two neat churches, and a short distance to the E. is a series of 
powerful earthworks, intended to prevent the establishment of hostile 
batteries within shelling distance of Quebec. 18 M. from Point Levi are 
the * Falls of the Chaudiere, where that river dashes, in a sheet 350 ft. wide, 
down a precipice 150 ft. high. The Chaudiere descends from Lake Me- 
gantic, near the Maine frontier, passing through the Canadian gold-fields. 
Arnold’s hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from 
its source to its mouth. (See page 313). 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the Grande 
Allee, passing out of the St. Louis Gate. The road leads by the Canada 
Military Asylum, St. Bridget’s Asylum, and the jail, and near the toll- 
gate (on the 1.) is seen a monument inscribed, “ Here died Wolfe, Vic¬ 
torious.” The scene of the Battle of the Plains is on either hand, and the 
Plains of Abraham stretch away to the S. There are four Martello Towers 
on the neighboring fields, each built in a circular form and of heavy 
masonry, while the massive stone jail, being provided with long lines of 
loopholes, is an efficient outwork. About 2 M. out, the Mount Hermon 
Cemetery is passed, with the elegant Chapel of St. Michael, and the 
whole distance between the city and Cap Rouge is lined with fine old 
villas of the noblesse and gentry of Lower Canada. Redclyffe Mansion is 
on the cape, near where Roberval wintered in 1641, and in the same 
vicinity batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In rotuming 
to the city, it is best to turn to the 1. at St. Albans, and gain the Ste. Foy 
road. The broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles is overlooked from 
this road, and Lorette may be seen in the distance. As the city is nearly 





384 Route 56. FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 


approached, on the 1. is seen a monumental column surmounted by a statue 
of Bell on a (presented by Prince Napoleon), which' marks the site of the 
fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, when De Levis defeated 
Murray (1759). The monument whs dedicated with great pomp in 1854, 
and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Pass¬ 
ing now the handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of 
St. John is entered. 

Indian Lorette is 9 M. from Quebec, by the Little River Road. It is 
an ancient village of the Hurons (“ Catholics and allies of France ”), and 
the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in whom the 
Indian blood predominates, though it is never unmixed. The men hunt 
and fish, the women make bead-work and moccasins, and the boys earn 
pennies by dexterous archery. The Lorette Falls, near the village, are 
very pretty, and a few miles farther inland are the Lakes of Beauport 
and St. Charles. The latter is 4 M. long, and is famed for its red trout 
and for its remarkable echoes. 

Charlesbourg, 4 M. from Quebec, is an ancient village, with two 
Catholic churches, situated on a pleasant and picturesque road. In the 
vicinity is the Hermitage, or Chateau Bigot, a gray and romantic ruin at 
the foot of Mt. des Ormes, where Bigot, the last intendant of Canada, 
kept and visited a lovely Algonquin girl, until his wife discovered the 
secret, and soon thereafter the Indian maiden was cruelly murdered. 

The * * Falls of Montmorenci are about 8 M. from the city, by a road 
which crosses the St. Charles River, passes several fine old mansions, and 
traverses the long, straggling village of Beauport, with its stately church 
and roadside crosses. The falls are 250 ft. high and 50 ft. wide, — a solid 
and compact mass of water incessantly plunging over a precipice of black 
rock, with clouds of mist and a deafening roar. The Montmorenci flows 
into the St. Lawrence a short distance below. Near the falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria’s 
father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the. 
fatal abyss below. A small fee is charged for entering the fields to view 
the falls, and the tourist must be careful, not only to visit the pavilion 
near the falls (which commands also a charming view of Quebec), but to 
insist on being conducted to a position low down on the shore, from which 
the stupendous plunge of the Montmorenci may best be seen. About 1| 
M. above the falls are the Natural Steps, where the river has cut the 
ledges into a similitude to steps, meanwhile contracting its channel. The 
views on the road back to Quebec are very beautiful. At the foot of 
these falls an immense ice-cone (sometimes 200 ft. high) is formed every 
winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogginning is carried on. 

Ste. Anne is 24 M. below Quebec (tri-weekly steamers), and has a small 


THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 


Route 56. 385 


inn. 2-3 M. from the inn are the beautiful Falls of Ste. Anne, below 
which the river of the same name dashes down through a dark and sombre 
ravine. The Falls of St. Fereol, the Se'ven Falls, and other remarkable 
objects, are in this vicinity, while just W. of the village is Mt. Ste. Anne, 
a picturesque summit 2,687 ft. high. Lake St. Joachin is a few miles 
distant, and abounds in trout, while 6 - 8 M. below is the bold mountain- 
promontory called Cap Tourmente. Within the village is the beautiful 
little pilgrimage-church of Ste. Anne, where it is said that many surpris¬ 
ing miracles have been wrought by relics of La Bonne Ste. Anne (which 
are kept in a crystal globe). Crutches and other helpers of the sick and 
deformed are hung upon the walls of the sacristy, their owners having 
been made whole, while numerous rude votive pictures adorn the chapels. 
Chateau Richer is S. of Ste. Anne, and has the ruins of a Franciscan 
! monastery on a bold point over the river. This monastery was built in 
1695, and was so sturdily defended against Gen. Wolfe (even the monks 
fought) that he was obliged to destroy it by cannonading. From the 
parish-church, near the ruins, beautiful views are gained of L’Ange 
Gardien, Cape Diamond, and the Isle of Orleans, “ the Garden of Lower 
Canada.” This isle is 20 M. long and 5-6 M. wide, and is famed for its 
rich soil. Cartier, in 1535, named it the Isle of Bacchus, and in 1676 it 
! was made into the. Earldom of St. Laurent. 

The Saguenay River (Ha Ha Bay) is 132 M. from Quebec, and 
steamers run semi-weekly. Below the St. Marguerite Islands (of which 
Goose and Crane are the largest), the St. Lawrence attains and keeps a 
width of about 20 M. with 18 ft. tides, and with seals, porpoises, and 
whales playing in the clear salt water. The Isle of Orleans is passed on 
the N., and the quarantine stations on Grosse Isle are seen, near the vast 
promontory of Cap Tourmente. The Isle aux Coudres has a population 
more purely Norman in its blood and habits than any other in Canada. 
Ste. Anne, on the S. E. shore, has a Catholic College (French), and 
Malbaie (Murray Bay), 80 M. from Quebec, is a favorite summer-resort 
for the better classes of the French Canadians. The steamer crosses to 
Riviere du Loup, the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway on the E.; 
6 M. from which is Cacouna (St. Lawrence Hall, &c.), the Newport of 
Canada, where thousands of visitors enjoy sea-bathing during the heats 
of summer. Tri-weekly stages run from Riviere du Loup to the Grand 
Falls of the St. John River, whence stages connect with route 49 (see 
! page 323). The steamer now crosses the wide river to Tadousac (large 
summer-hotel), a post of the Hudson’s Bay Company at the mouth of the 
Saguenay River. Tadousac was early fortified by the French; it was the 
residence of Pere Marquette, who explored the Mississippi Valley; and it 
now has a venerable Catholic church, which is said to be more than 2-| 
centuries old. The vast cafion through which the Saguenay rolls its black 
17 y 





386 Route 56. 


THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 


waters is now entered, and lofty peaks and palisades tower on either side. 
After passing La Boule and the Profiles, 34 M. above Tadousac, the 
majestic * Cape Trinity and Cap'e Eternity rise on the S. to the height 
of 2,000 ft. each, guarding the entrance to Trinity Bay. The water at 
the base of these peaks is over 600 fathoms deep. 

“ Suddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in 
which Cape Eternity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side’ of 
the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching 
upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep 
seams from space to space, till, 1,500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and 

frowns with a scattering fringe of pines.The rocki'ully justifies its attributive 

height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep 
after steep, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems 
to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that 
besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly 
grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. 
At the foot of Cape Eternity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a 
black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and 
desolation, and issues again in its river’s course around the base of Cape Trinity. 
This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the 
stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The 
woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, 
showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble 
themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems 
one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the mass of their dark 
green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; so that the spirit, perturbed by the 
spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and assuaged by the serene grandeur of this.” 
— From W. D. Ho wells’s A Chance Acquaintance. 

Statue Point and Les Tableaux are next passed, and tben Ha Ha Bay 
is reached, with its two small villages, 10-12 M. above which is 
Chicoutimi, at the head of ship navigation. 80 M. farther N., in the 
bosom of a vast and desolate wilderness, is the reservoir of the Saguenay, 
the great Lake of St. John. 

From Quebec to Springfield, Hartford, New Haven, and New York, 
see Route 24. From Quebec to Boston, by Lake Memphremagog, White 
River Junction, and Concord, see Routes 24 and 29 ; to Boston, by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and the sea-shore, see Routes 40 and 37; or by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and Lawrence, see Routes 40 and 38. 



SCHENECTADY. 


Route 57. 38 7 




57. Boston to Niagara Falls. 

By the Boston & Albany R. R. and the N. Y. Central & Hudson River R. R. in 
507£ M. Fare, $11.85; fare by Pullman parlor-cars to Rochester (where the first 
and only change of cars occurs), $2.25 extra. 

This route has long formed one of the favorite excursions from New England, 
and passes through a fine diversity of scenery. The densely populated Eastern 
counties of Mass, are succeeded by the rich agricultural lands of Worcester Coun¬ 
ty ; and the chief inland cities of the Bay State — Worcester, Springfield, and 
Pittsfield — are passed in succession. Beyond the picturesque scenery of the Berk¬ 
shire Hills, the line descends into the fair Hudson River valley, and crosses the 
broad Hudson at Albany. * 

Chief Stations. — Boston ; S. Framingham, 21 M. ; Worcester, 44 ; W. 
Brookfield, 69 ; Palmer, 83 ; Springfield, 98 ; Westfield, 108 ; Chester, 126; Pitts¬ 
field, 151 ; Chatham, 177 ; Albany, 202. N. Y. Central R. R. — Albany ; Schenec¬ 
tady, 219 M. (from Boston); Amsterdam, 235 ; Fort Plain, 260 ; Little Falls, 275£ ; 
Utica, 297; Rome, 311; Oneida, 324 ; Syracuse, 350|; Weedsport, 371 ; Palmyra, 
40SJ ; Rochester, 430J ; Spencerport, 440 ; Holley, 453 ; Medina, 471; Gasport, 
481 ; Lockport, 487 ; Suspension Bridge, 506 ; Niagara Falls, 507£. 

For a description of the route from Boston to Springfield, see Route 24 
(page 124); and from Springfield to Albany, see Route 22 (page 141). 
Albany, see page 348. The-routes and cities between Albany and Niagara 
Falls, and thence to Montreal, are more fully described in Osgood’s Mid¬ 
dle-States Hand-Rook , pages 152 to 214 inclusive (with maps of Rochester, 
Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal). 

The N. Y. Central R. R. “ traverses the garden of N. Y. State, rich in 
agricultural and industrial resources, and teeming with a large popula¬ 
tion.” Beyond the great cattle-yards of W. Albany the train reaches the 
Mohawk River and the city of Schenectady ( Given's Hotel), a quaint old 
place, with 11,026 inhabitants and large iron-works. It was founded in 
1662, and was destroyed by the French in 1690, after a terrible massacre 
of the citizens. On the r. are seen the buildings of Union University 
(formerly Union College), an old and richly endowed institution over 
which Eliphalet Nott presided from 1804 until 1866. Beyond the alluvial 
plains of Glenville the train reaches Amsterdam (Arnold House), a thriv¬ 
ing factory-village of 5,426 inhabitants, situated in a fertile country. 

Tribes’ Hill was the council-ground of the valiant Mohawks, who aided the 
early English and Dutch settlers, and waged sanguinary war against the French, 
even to the extent of destroying Montreal. In this vicinity were the mansions of 
the powerful Johnson family, whose influence over the Indians was almost bound¬ 
less. Sir William Johnson commanded the forces at the Battle of Lake George 
(see page 356); and Sir John declared against America at the outbreak of the 
Revolution, and led his tenantry and Indian allies in destructive raids through 
Central New York. 

Fonda ( Fonda Hotel) is a pleasant village of Dutch origin, and is the 
capital of Montgomery County. A branch railroad runs thence 10 M. N. 
by Johnstown to Gloversville , which is famous for its glove-manufactories. 
The train passes the high hills called The Noses, and at Palatine Bridge 
(settled by Palatine Germans in 1713) the pretty hamlet of Canajoharie 



388 Route 57. 


TRENTON FALLS. 


is seen on the 1. bank of the Mohawk. Daily stages- run thence 12 M. S. 
to the favorite summer-resort of Sharon Springs (“ the Baden Baden of 
America”). Fort Plain (Union Hall) is a large village in the centre of a 
district which is rich in the history and legends of the old wars. After 
crossing the E. Canada Creek the line traverses the Manheim intervales 
and reaches Little Falls (Benton House), a busy factory village pictur¬ 
esquely built in the narrow gorge where the rapid Mohawk breaks through 
a rocky ridge 5 - 600 ft. high. Great quantities of rich cheese are for¬ 
warded from this point, and also from the next station, Herkimer (the 
capital of Herkimer County). Ilion is the seat of the Remington rifle- 
factory, where large armaments have been made for Egypt, Japan, Rome, 
Denmark, Spain, Sweden, and the S. American republics. During 7 
months of the Franco-Prussian War the works ran night and day, and 
made 155,000 rifles for France. Crossing the Mohawk River the train 
reaches Utica (* Butterfield House; Baggs ’ Hotel), a thriving city of 
30,000 inhabitants, with 34 churches, 5 banks, and 3 daily papers. There 
is a large Welsh and German population here; and the manufactures of 
the city are manifold and lucrative. In the W. suburb are the imposing 
buildings of the State Insane Asylum. 

* Trenton Falls (* Moore's Trenton Falls Hotel) are 17 M. N. W. of 
Utica by the Utica & Black River R. R. (in 40 min. ; fare, 75c.), and are 
of rare and picturesque beauty. They are formed by the W. Canada 
Creek, which here descends in a profound limestone ravine, and have a 
singular appearance by reason of the amber color of the water. The hotel 
and falls are 1 M. from the station (carriages, 50c.). The Sherman Falls 
are the first approached, and 800 ft. beyond are the * High Falls , the 
finest point in the series. Above this point is the great romantic rock- 
hall called the Alhambra ; and still farther up the creek is the Prospect 
Fall. The railroad runs N. from Trenton Falls to Boonville and Lowville, 
the favorite entrances to John Brown’s Tract (see Osgood’s Middle States , 
page 155). 

Richfield Springs (* Spring House ; American) is reached from Utica 
by the D., L. & W. R. R. in 35 M., and is one of the chief summer resorts 
of Central N. Y. The sulphur-waters of Richfield are unpleasant to the 
taste, but are very efficacious in ameliorating cutaneous disorders. The 
village is pleasantly situated in Otsego County, near Schuyler Lake and 
Otsego Lake, the home of Cooper (see Osgood’s Middle States, page 323), 
and has summer quarters for 2,500 guests. 

Beyond Whitesboro’ and Oriskany the train enters the city of Rome 
{Stanwix Hall; American), a manufacturing centre with 11,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, at the confluence of the Erie and the Black River Canals. Rome is 
on the site of Fort Stanwix, which sustained an heroic siege in 1777; and 
to the E. occurred the fa,tal battle of Oriskany, where the valley militia 


ROCHESTER. 


Route 57. 389 


were ambuscaded by the Indians and suffered heavy losses. Stations, 
Verona, near the Verona Springs, and N. of the Oneida Reservation; 
Oneida (Eagle Hotel), at the crossing of the Midland R. R., and just N. 
of the Oneida Community ; Canastota, celebrated for its manufacture of 
delicate philosophical instruments ; and Chittenango, where many sum¬ 
mer visitors sojourn in order to avail themselves of the celebrated mag¬ 
nesia and sulphur waters (White Sulphur Springs Hotel). 

Syracuse {* Globe Hotel; Vanderbilt House) is midway between Al¬ 
bany and Buffalo, and is situated at the foot of Onondaga Lake. It has 
54,122 inhabitants, 40 churches, and 9 banks; and is the seat of exten¬ 
sive manufactures. On the heights to the S. are the spacious new build¬ 
ings of the Syracuse University, a well-endowed Methodist institution ; and 
fine views of the city and lake are enjoyed from their vicinity. The Salt 
Springs are N. W. of Syracuse, near the shore of the lake, and are worthy 
of notice. There are 24 wells of brine (from immense subterranean de¬ 
posits of rock-salt) belonging to the State, and yielding 8-9,000,000 
bushels of salt yearly. Onondaga Lake is a narrow and unattractive 
sheet 6 M. long and 361 ft. above the sea. Its history is full of interest 
and is diversified with the adventures of the French, Spanish, English, 
and Onondaga sojourners in this region. Beyond Syracuse the train 
crosses Wayne County, famous for its peppermint; and from Lyons {Con¬ 
gress Hall) 100,000 pounds of peppermint oil are shipped yearly. Near 
Palmyra arose the sects of the Mormons and Spiritualists, so extensively 
known in recent times. 

Rochester (*Osbum House; Brackett Hotel; Congress Hall) is a 
handsome modern city of 62,386 inhabitants, favorably situated on the 
Genesee River. It is called the “ Flour City ” on account of its flour¬ 
mills, which are the largest in the world (having an annual capacity 
of 1,000,000 barrels); and also the ‘‘Flower City,” by reason of its im¬ 
mense nurseries covering thousands of acres with masses of brilliant 
flowers (fruits and plants to the value of $2,500,000 are exported hence 
annually). The * Powers’ Buildings are the finest commercial buildings 
between New York and Chicago, and contain a large gallery of average 
American paintings. From the tower (175 ft. high) on their top is gained 
a fine view of the city and the lake. Near the Powers Buildings are the 
fine structures of the City Hall, Court House, and High School. The 
University of Rochester has new stone buildings fronting across a verdant 
campus on University Ave.; and its geological cabinets are the best in the 
U. S. This institution pertains to the Baptist Church; and the same sect 
controls the Rochester Theological Seminary, whose rich library (15,000 
volumes) includes the library of Neander, the German church-historian. 
1 M. N. of the city are the extensive buildings of the Western House of 
Refuge, for the reformation of youthful criminals. The Erie Canal crosses 


390 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


the Genesee (near the Buffalo St. Bridge) on a fine .aqueduct of cut stone 
which cost § 000,000. The * Mount Hope Cemetery is a beautiful and at- 
tractive burying-ground S» of the city, near the river; and has picturesque 
hills and groves, aud a far-viewing observatory-tower. The Genesee Falls 
are within the city, and are interesting in an industrial point of view. 
The upper fall has 90 ft. of depth, and is interesting in high water. The 
great water-power derived from this fall gives Rochester its importance 
as a manufacturing city. The middle falls are H M. below, and are 25 
ft. deep; while the lower falls descend 81 ft., and are the most pic¬ 
turesque of the series. Steamboats rim from the lower falls (and trains 
from the R. R. station) to Charlotte, the port of Rochester, pleasantly 
situated on Lake Ontario, 7 M. distant. 

The Niagara train runs W. from Rochester along the line of the Erie 
Canal, passing Brockport, famous for its large State Normal School ; 
Holley, near salt-springs; Albion, the capital of Oi'leans County, with a 
high dome on the Court House; Medina, enriched by prolific quarries of 
red sandstoile; and Lockport (Judson House), a city of 15,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, surrounded by a fine agricultural country, and made active by nu¬ 
merous manufactories. On the 1. from the train are seen the 10 massive 
locks which give the city its name, and by whose aid the Erie Canal as¬ 
cends 66 ft. from the Genesee Level to the Erie Level. The train passes 
on rapidly over a wide rural district, and soon reaches Suspension Bridge 
and Niagara Falls. 


58. Niagara Falls. 

Hotels.—* Cataract House, and International Hotel, each $4.50 a day, lo¬ 
cated near the Rapids. Spencer House, opposite the station, open all the year 
($3.50 a day) ; Park Place Hotel. On the Canadian shore is the * Clifton House, 
$3.50 a day (U. S. money); also the Victoria Hall, on the heights above Clifton. 
The Cli.ton commands the finest Hew of the Falls. The Monteagle Hotel is at 
Suspension Bridge ($ 12 -15 a week). 

Carriages. —The hackmen of Niagara have been a source of continual annoy¬ 
ance to visitors by their importunity and extortion. They may easily be shaken 
off by a prompt and firm refusal : and gentlemen who wish to ride* with them 
should make au explicit verbal contract before starting, — in which the places to 
l>e visited, the time to be taken, and the compensation should be distinctly 
understood by both parties. There is then but little danger of trouble. The 
tolls on the bridges and roads are paid by the tourist. No reliance should be 
placed on the hackman's statement of distances. The tariff for carriages is $ 2 an 
hour, but special contracts maybe made at lower rates for visiting specified points. 
These rates vary with the men, the season, and the size of the party. A buggy 
and driver may be hired for $5 a day. The trip on the Canadian side includes the 
Table Rock, the Burning Spring. Lundy’s Lane, the lower Suspension Bridge, and 
the Whirlpool (and sometimes Brock’s monument ou Queenston Heights). *" There 
is but little need of a carriage on the American shore unless Niagara City is 
visited, — Goat Island and Prospect Park being more easily and pleasantly trav¬ 
ersed on foot. A carriage and span may be hired (outside the hotels) for $ 10 a 
day to carry 4-5 persons to all points of interest on both shores, — including 
the Suspension Bridge and Queenston Heights. Tolls and entrance-fees are not 
Included in this price. Guides may be obtained in the village, but there is no 
fixed tariff. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


Route 58. 391 


Shops for the sale of bead-work, baskets, fans, photographs, minerals, soar 
and agate jewelry, etc., abound in various parts of the village. Many of these 
articles are manufactured by the Tuscarora Indians, who live on a reservation 7 
M. distant. Indian squaws are seen at different points selling these wares which 
are generally pretty and inexpensive. 

The extortions at Niagara have become world-famed, and are much exaggerated. 
It is true that the tourist is called upon to pay at nearly every step in the vicinity 
of the Falls (on the American side), but then he is continually using facilities 
and improvements which have cost large amounts of money aud are only remu¬ 
nerative for a few months in the year. The Falls and their surroundings are fre¬ 
quently “done” by parties in a single day; and as many rare and curious objects 
are seen as would be found in weeks of ordinary travel. The payment must be in 
some degree commensurate. Tourists who remain several days or weeks at Ni¬ 
agara can avail themselves of season-tickets to various points at low rates, and 
their expenses need be no greater than they would be at New York or Newport. 
Much of the extra expense at Niagara is due to the fact that the majority of tour¬ 
ists here indulge in luxuries which are neither necessary nor customary. Nowhere 
are carriages so needless as here, since the distances are short and the roads are 
unmistakable. A gentleman travelling en gargon may spend 2 days here for less 
•than $ 10, by avoiding some of the less interesting (yet always expensive) locali¬ 
ties ; by being satisfied with comfortable, instead of luxurious, hotel-accommoda¬ 
tions ; and by walking, as he would at home. Arriving at the Falls in the morn¬ 
ing, the day should be devoted to the American side and principally to Goat 
Island (good dining-saloon in the village). Crossing to the Canadian shore at 
evening, the second day should be given to that side. 

“It was not until 1 came on Table Rock, and looked — Great Heaven — on 
what a fall of bright green water! —that it came upon me in its full might and 
majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first 
effect, and the enduring one —instant and lasting —of the tremendous spectacle 
was Peace. Peace of Mind — Tranquillity — calm recollections of the Dead : 
Great Thoughts of Eternal Rest and Happiness — nothing of Gloom or Terror. 
Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an Image of Beauty to remain there 

changeless and indelible until its pulses cease to beat forever.I think in 

every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble 
all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below. Still, 
when the sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when 
the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front 
of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But always 
does the mighty stream seem to die as it comes down, and always from the un¬ 
fathomable gulf rises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never 
laid, which has haunted this place with the same dread solemnity since darkness 
brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge — Light — came rush¬ 
ing on creation at the Word of God.” (Dickens.) 

Niagara Falls are situated on the Niagara River, 22| M. from Lake 
Erie, and 13^ M. from Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet of the great 
lakes of the West, and has a width of about 4,000 ft. at this point. It is 
held by scientists that the Falls formerly occupied a position near Lewis¬ 
ton, but have receded to their present location in about 30,000 years, by 
wearing out the ledges with incessant beating. Remarkable displays of 
ice-cones and icicles are witnessed here in winter; and in 1848 the Falls 
were nearly dried up by reason of an ice-dam which held back the river 
at the efflux from Lake Erie. 

* Goat Island (entrance, 50c.; season-ticket, $ 1) is 5 min. walk from 
the R. R. station, and is reached by an iron carriage-bridge 360 ft. long, 
whence is gained a fine view of the white and turbulent Rapids, which 
fall 51 ft. in a course of f M., and attain a velocity of 30 M. an hour,— 




392 


Route 58, 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


“like a battle-charge of tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated 
against the sky.” Beyond Bath Island (with the Tribune Paper Mills) 
the road reaches Goat Island, whose sequestered groves are the goal of 
“that great circle of newly wedded bliss, which, involving the whole land 
during the season of bridal tours, may be said to. show richest and fairest 
at Niagara, like the costly jewel of a precious ring ” (see Howells’s “ Their 
Wedding Journey The path to the r. from the bridge leads (in 5 min.) 
to the foot of the island and the verge of the * Centre Falls, whence a 
foot-bridge conducts to Luna Island, a rocky islet between the Centre 
and American Falls. The * American Fall stretches away from Luna 
Island for 1,200 ft., with a perpendicular plunge of 164 ft.; and the visi¬ 
tor can stand within a span of its curve. Fine lunar bows are seen here 
on nights when the moon is full. At this end of Goat Island is a stairway 
leading to the level of the river below the Falls. Guides and water-proof 
clothing are here furnished ($ 1.50) for persons who wish to enter the 
Cave of the Winds , a damp grotto, whose W. side is formed by the blue 
water of the massive Centre Fall. Double and triple concentric circular 
rainbows may be seen in this vicinity on a bright afternoon. The road on 
the summit of the cliff passes the bridges to the islet on which stood the 
Terrapin Tower. The * * view of the Horse-Shoe Fall from this point is 
one of the grandest about Niagara. The width of the Fall is nearly 2,400 
ft., with a height of 158 ft. (6 ft. less than the American Fall). Near its 
centre is the smooth dark-green current which marks the deepest water 
of the Falls, — over 20 ft. 

The term “ Canadian Fall ” is often applied to the waters W. of Goat Island, hut 
it is inexact, since the national boundary passes down the centre of the Horse- 
JShoe, leaving fully half of the W. Falls in the domain of the Republic. The out¬ 
line of this Fall lias been so changed that the horseshoe curve is less apparent 
than formerly. In recent years large sections of the adjacent cliffs of Goat Island 
have fallen into the abyss below, and Gull Island, near the curve of the Falls, has 
been washed away. In 1827 the condemned ship Michigan was sent over the 
Horse-Shoe Falls with a cargo of animals, one of which,a sagacious bear, deserted 
the ship in the midst of the rapids, and swam ashore. In 1810 a salt-boat sunk 
off Chippewa, and 3 of the crew were carried over the Falls ; in 1821, a scow and 
2 men went over ; in 1825, 5 more, 3 of whom were in canoes ; in 1S41, a sand- 
scow and 2 men, and 2 smugglers ; in 1847, a young boy, who tried to row across 
above ; in 1848, two children were playing in a skiff, when it got loose, — the 
mother, wading out, saved one, but the other was swept over, grasping the boat 
on each side. In 1871, 3 strangers tried to row across far above, but the current 
drew them in, and carried them down ; and in 1873, a newly married couple, while 
rowing about near Chippewa, were drawn into the central current, and passed 
over the Falls in each other’s arms. Many other disasters have occurred above 
and below the Falls, as if to verify the Indian tradition that Niagara demands 2 
victims yearly. Two bull-terrier dogs have made the plunge over the American 
Falls without harm. One of them lived all winter on a dead cow which it found 
on the rocks below ; and the other trotted up the ferry-stairs, very much aston¬ 
ished and grieved, within an hour from the time when he was thrown from Goat 
Island Bridge. 

The * Three Sisters are rugged and romantic islets S. W. of Goat 
Island, and are reached by 3 pretty suspension-bridges connected with the 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


Route 58. 393 


road leading from Terrapin Bridge. They afford the "best * view of the 
Rapids at their widest, deepest, and most tumultuous part, where the 
base of their heaviest whirl is wreathed with mist. A light bridge leads 
to another picturesque islet near the third Sister. “The Three Sisters 
are mere fragments of wilderness, clumps of vine-tangled woods, planted 
upon masses of rock; but they are parts of the fascination of Niagara 
which no one resists.” 

From the head of Goat Island, 1 M. up the river, is seen the white house which 
stands on the site of Fort Sclilosser, near which, at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, 
Father Hennepin and La Salle spent the winter and spring of 1678-79. They 
built here a 60-ton vessel, the Griffin, and sailed up the great lakes to Green Bay 
(Wisconsin). Fort du Portage was afterward erected at Schlosser, and was taken 
by the English in 1759, after a siege, in which the French garrison destroyed their 
armed store-ships in Burnt Ship Bay. On Navy Island (near Schlosser) the Cana¬ 
dian insurgents of 1837 had their head-quarters, and communicated with the 
American shore by the steamer Caroline. A British force boarded the Caroline 
by night, and after a short struggle beat off the crew. The vessel was then set on 
lire, and drifted down, blazing through the darkness, to the cascades below Goat 
Island, where she went to pieces (some say that she plunged over the Falls in a 
mass of flame). Col. Allan McNab, who ordered this attack, was soon afterwards 
knighted. Grand Island is above Navy Island, and is 12 M. long and 2-7 M. wide 
(containing 17,240 acres). In 1820 Mordecai M. Noah endeavored to make this 
island a home for the scattered Hebrews throughout the world. After much 
legislation and wide correspondence with his compatriots, he put up a monument 
on the island, inscribed, “Ararat, a city of refuge for the Jews,” etc. But the 
European Rabbins denounced the movement, and the project was abandoned. 

* Prospect Park entrance, 20c.; season-ticket, 50c. ; entrance and 
ferriage over and back, 50c.) is on the mainland, by the side of the 
American Fall. Its chief point of interest is a platform, inwalled by a 
low parapet, on the very verge of the Fall, whence the deep abyss and the 
broad curve of the waters may be observed in security. A railway 360 
ft. long, and inclined at an angle of 33°, leads from the Park to the river 
below. The cars are drawn by an endless cable, which is worked by 
water-power. Paths lead from the base of the cliff into the spray toward 
the Falls ; also to Point View, and to 2 small caverns nearly 1 M. distant 
(the path is rugged and dangerous). Near the foot of the railway the 
tourist enters a large rowboat, which is tossed about as if on a stormy sea 
by the tumultuous waters. The * view of the Falls from mid-stream (or 
x of the way across) is awe-inspiring, and gives the full idea of their great 
height, which is not obtained from the banks above. This ferry was es¬ 
tablished in 1825, and no accident has ever occurred on it. The passage 
of the river takes 10 min., and the depth of the water on the line of transit 
is 180 ft. A road £ M. long leads from the landing to the top of the cliff, 
near the Clifton House (carriages are in waiting). 

The *New Suspension Bridge (25c. for pedestrians) is 6-800 ft. be¬ 
low the Falls, of which it gives a grand panoramic *view “from the be¬ 
ginning of the American Fall to the farthest limit of the Horse-Shoe, with 
all the awful pomp of the Rapids, the solemn darkness of the wooded 
17* 




394 Route, 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


islands, the mystery of the vaporous gulf, the indomitable wildness of the 

shores, as far as the eye can reach up or down the fatal stream. 

Of all the bridges made with hands it seems the lightest, most ethereal; 
it is ideally graceful, and droops from its slight towers like a garland.” 
That “apotheosis of industry,” the white and slender fall called the 
Bridal Veil, is seen on the American shore, and is the end of “ a poor 
but’respectable mill-race which has devoted itself strictly to business, and 
has turned mill-wheels instead of fooling around water-lilies. It can afford 
that ultimate finery.” The bridge was finished in 1869, at a cost of 
$ 175,000, and is the longest suspension-bridge in the world, being 1,190 
ft. from cliff to cliff, and 1,268 ft. from tower to tower. The American 
tower (10c. for the ascent) is 100 ft. high; and the Canadian tower 
(ascended by an elevator; 25c.) is 105 ft. high, and commands a noble 
* view of the Falls and the great ravine. The terminus is near the Clifton 
House, a spacious first-class hotel which faces the entire range of the 
Falls. Passing from the Clifton House toward the Falls, a continuous 
and majestic prospect is afforded. The Museum (50c.) is soon approached. 
It contains collections of coins, minerals, Egyptian relics and mummies, 
casts from Ninevite sculptures, a line of grotesque wax figures, and an 
extensive array of stuffed birds and animals arranged in a forest-scene. 
There is a pleasant prospect from the upper balconies, and in the hall 
below is a large salesroom for bijouterie characteristic of Niagara. Live 
buffaloes are kept in the yard. Oil-cloth suits and guides are furnished 
here ($ 1) for the passage under the Horse-Shoe Fall. Termination Rock 
is reached near the edge of the Fall, and visitors, blinded by the spr£y, 
and deafened by the roaring of the waters, will be satisfied to return 
speedily. 300 ft. above the Museum is Table Rock, from which is given 
the grandest front * * view of the entire Falls ; and time should be un¬ 
limited at this point. 

In 1850 a section of this ledge, 200 X 60 ft., and 100 ft. thick, broke away, and 
plunged into the chasm below with a tremendous roar. An omnibus which was 
standing upon it went down also, and was shivered to atoms, the driver barely 
escaping by the warning of the splitting rocks. The remaining part of Table 
Rock is thought to be destined to remain firm, as there is but little overhang*! 
although a crack 125 ft. long and 60 ft. deep was left when the great crash took 
place. 

The * Burning Spring is 2 M. above Table Rock, and should be ap¬ 
proached by the river-road, which affords a fine view of the Great Ox-Bow 
Rapids and the broad river above. Just above is the fine mansion and 
park formerly owned by Mr. Street, a retired bachelor and fervid lover of 
Nature, who won the ill-will of the inhabitants of this section and the 
gratitude of all tourists by refusing to allow mills to be erected on his 
wide riverward domains. The Burning Spring (40c. admission) is highly 
charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which burns with an intermit- 


NIAGARA PALLS. 


Route 58. 395 


' tent pale-blue flame when ignited. The water is in a state of ebullition, 
and the spring-house is kept darkened to increase the effect. A tub with 
a long iron pipe through the bottom is inverted over the water, and a 
constant stream of gas passes through it, affording a jet of flame over 3 
ft. high. The spring is at the water’s edge, and overlooks the white rapids 
to Goat Island ; while nearer at hand is Cynthia Island, joined to the 
Street domain by a pretty footbridge. It is best to return to the Falls by 
the parallel road on the heights, near the Loretto Convent, from which good 
views are gained, including the best overview of the Horse-Shoe. “ By all 
odds, too, the most tremendous view of the Falls is afforded by the point 
on this drive whence you look down upon the Horse-Shoe, and behold its 
three massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gulf together, 
the color gone, and the smooth brink showing black and ridgy.” A road 
diverging to the 1., near the Falls, leads to the hamlet of Drummondville 
(1J M. from Table Rock), on whose heights is a tower which overlooks the 
battle-field of Lundy’s Lane and a great extent of country, from Brock’s 
monument on Queenston Heights to Buffalo and Lake Erie. 

The * Suspension Bridge which connects Niagara City (so called) and 
Clifton, and sustains the track of the Great Western Railway, is about 2 
M. N. of the Falls. It was built in 1852, under the direction of John A. 
Roebling, and cost $ 500,000. It is 800 ft. long, and 230 ft. above the 
river, and weighs 800 tons, being fitted to sustain a maximum weight of 
7,309 tons. The first wire was drawn across by a string which had been 
earned over on a kite. 18 ft. above the carriage-way is the railway-floor 
over which the heaviest trains pass safely, causing a deflection in the curve 
of but 5-10 inches. On the S. W. the New Suspension Bridge and the 
Falls are seen, while on the N. are the white and terrible * Whirlpool 
Rapids. Just beyond the Monteagle House (American side) is a double 
elevator (50c.), which leads from the top of the bank 300 ft. down to the 
verge of these marvellous rapids, where the waters of the great lakes are 
compressed into a narrow gorge, and rush down with such fury that the 
centre of the stream is 30 - 40 ft. higher than the sides. June 15, 1867, 
the intrepid pilot Robinson guided the steamer Maid of the Mist as she 
shot these rapids, “ like the swift sailing of a large bird in a downward 
flight.” Her smoke-stack was beaten down, and the vessel was tossed 
like a leaf on the huge surges, but speedily reached the calm water below 
Lewiston in safety. About 1 M. below the rapids is the Whirlpool, 
situated in a circular bend of the river, and bounded by cliffs 350 ft. high. 
Logs and other things which are drawn into these concentric currents 
whirl about there for many days. 

Queenston is an insignificant Canadian hamlet 6 M. N. of the Falls; 
above which a lofty monument was erected on the place where Gen. Brock 
fell in the battle of Queenston Heights. This was blown up by a scoun- 





396 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


drelly refugee in 1840 ; and in 1853 the present noble * monument was 
dedicated. On a base 40 ft. square and 20 ft. high are 4 colossal lions, 
between which rises a lofty fluted shaft of sandstone. On the Corinthian 
capital is a relief of the Goddess of War, and above this is a dome which 
supports a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. The monument is 185 ft. high, 
and is ascended by an inner spiral stairway of 250 steps. The view from 
this point is extensive, and includes the tower on Lundy’s Lane, a consid¬ 
erable sweep of the river, and the broad lake. 

It is probable that the fearless Franciscan monks and the adventurous fur- 
traders of France had often seen the Falls at a very early day. But the first de¬ 
scription (with a sketch) was made by Father Hennepin in 1678, who gave them a 
height of 600 ft., saying also : “Betwixt the Lakes Erie and Ontario there is a 
vast and prodigious cadence of water which falls down a surprising and astonish¬ 
ing height, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel.The 

waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most 
hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that 
of thunder ; for when the wind blows out of the S. their dismal roaring may be 
heard more than 15 leagues. The river Niagara, having thrown itself down this 
incredible precipice, continues its impetuous course for 2 leagues together .... 

with an inexpressible rapidity.The two brinks of it are so prodigious high 

that it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the water rolling along with 
a rapidity not to be imagined.” Before this visit the peaceful Kahkwa tribe 
(called the Neuter Nation) had been driven from the region, and the Senecas had 
replaced them, but did not dwell near the cascades (Hennepin thinks they feared 
to be made deaf by “the horrid noise of the Fall”). In 1687 the Baron La 
Hontan visited the Falls, and reported them to be 7 - 800 ft. high and l£ M. wide. 
The name Niagara is said to mean “Thunder of Waters.” In 1678 La Salle en¬ 
tered the river (with 16 men, in a 10-ton brigantine) singing the Te Deum, and 
the next year sailed from above the Falls in the first vessel on the Great Lakes. 
In 1687 a fort was built at Niagara by the Marquis De Nonville ; and in 1750 Fort 
du Portage was erected above the Falls. This was taken in the year of the Con¬ 
quest of Canada, and was strengthened under the name of Fort Schlosser. In 
1763 occurred a horrible massacre at Devil’s Hole, 3^- M. S. of the Falls, when a 
large force of Senecas ambushed a commissary-train with a strong escort, on the 
shore of Bloody Run. But 2 of the train-guards escaped, while the supports 
which were hurried from Lewiston to the sound of the firing were nearly all put 
to the tomahawk in a second ambush. Many of the victims were cast alive from 
the lofty cliffs into the boiling Niagara, and their horses and wagons were hurled 
down after them. 


“ O'er Huron's wave the sun was low, 
The weary soldier watched the bow 
Fast fading from the cloud below 
The dashing of Niagara. 


And while the phantom chained his sight, 
Ah! little thought he of the fight,— 

The horrors of the dreamless night, 

That posted on so rapidly.” 


The Battle of Niagara Falls, or Lundy’s Lane, was fought July 25, 1814, on the 
heights 1| M. W. of the Falls. Several days after the victory at Chippewa, Scott 
advanced Avitli 1,200 men, and engaged the British at Lundy’s Lane. He supposed 
that but a small force was before him, but in reality it was the whole hostile army. 
Jessup’s 25th Regulars charged through the lines of Wellington’s veterans and 
captured Gen. Riall and his staff, and at 9 in the evening the rest of the army 
reinforced Scott. A little later, Col. Miller and the 21st Regulars ad\ T anced up 
the heights in the moonlight and stormed the British batteries above. After a 
terrible hand-to-hand contest with the infantry supports, Miller held the hill, with 
7 pieces of British artillery, and repulsed 4 charges of the enemy. When the last 
British assault was disastrously repulsed, the Americans remained in possession 
of the enemy’s positions and guns. Later in the night they retired a short dis¬ 
tance from the field and battery, which were reoccupied by the royalists. There 
were 2,600 Americans in this battle (of whom S52 were losl), and 4,500 British (of 
whom 878 were lost). The Battle of Niagara Falls “has few parallels in history 





TORONTO. 


Route 59. 397 


in its wealth of gallant deeds. It was fought wholly in the shadows of a summer 

evening between sunset and midnight.Above was a serene sky, a placid 

moon in its wane, and innumerable stars, — a vision of Beauty and Peace ; below 
was the sulphurous smoke of battle, .... out of which came the quick flashes 
of lightning and the bellowing of the echoes of its voice, —a vision of Horror and 
Strife. Musket, rocket, and cannon, cracking, hissing, and booming ; and the 
clash of sabre and bayonet, with the cries of human voices, made a horrid din 
that commingled with the awful, solemn roar of the great cataract hard by, whose 
muffled thunder-tones rolled on, on, forever, in infinite grandeur when the puny 
drum had ceased to beat, and silence had settled upon the field of carnage. There 
the dead were buried, and the mighty diapason of the flood was their requiem.” 
(Lossing.) 

59. Niagara Falls to Toronto end Montreal. 

The St. Lawrence River. 

Some tourists prefer to go to Hamilton or to Charlotte (Rochester) by- 
rail, and there to take the steamer; and numerous other combinations of 
rail and water navigation are made. Perhaps the favorite route is by 
cars (twice daily) along the profound gorge of the Niagara to Lewiston, 
whence a steamer descends the river, with fine retrospects of the gorge 
and the monument-crowned heights of Queenston. At the mouth of the 
river the American and Anglo-Canadian forts are seen; and fronting on 
the lake is The Queen's Royal Niagara Hotel, a favorite summer resort 
for the aristocracy of Toronto. Running thence N. W. for 30 M. across 
Lake Ontario, the steamer reaches 

Toronto. 

Hotels. — * Rossin House, $3 a day; Queen’s Hotel, Front St., $3 ; Mansion 
House, corner King and York Sts., $1.50-2 ; Revere ; xYmerican ; Albion. Amuse¬ 
ments at the Royal Lyceum Theatre, and at Shaftesbury Hall. Post-Office, on 
Adelaide St., at the head of Toronto. Y. M. C. A., corner of King and James 
Sts. 

Railways. —Grand Trunk, to Montreal (333 M.) or Detroit (231 M.) ; Great 
Western, to Niagara Falls (82 M.)and Detroit (225 M.); Northern, to Orillia (on 
Lake Simcoe ; 86 M.) and Meaford (on Georgian Bay ; 115 M.) ; Toronto, Grey, & 
Bruce, to Owen Sound (on Georgian Bay; 17S M.); Toronto & Nipissing, to Cobo- 
conk (88 M.). Steamers leave semi-daily for Hamilton and for Montreal; once 
daily for Lewiston ; and once daily for Port Dalhousie. 

Carriages, 25c. a course ; $ 1 an hour. Horse-Cars traverse King, Yonge, and 
Queen Sts. to Trinity College and the Lunatic Asylum. 

Toronto, the capital of the Province of Ontario and the ‘‘Queen City 
of the West,” is situated on a low sandy plain on the N. W. shore of 
Lake Ontario, between the Don and Humber Rivers. The harbor is safe 
and commodious, and is protected by a sandy bar (7 M. long, and M. 
from the shore), which terminates at Gibraltar Point. Toronto is the 
chief city of Upper Canada, and has 60,000 inhabitants, 54 churches, 
10 banks, and 5 daily papers. There are 3 large grain-elevators on the 
water-front; and the most conspicuous object to a traveller approaching 
by water is the fine building of the Union Railway Station, with its tall 
towers. The principal streets are King and Yonge (the latter of which 
runs N. for 33 M.), and the city is laid out with great regularity. 









398 Route 59. 


TORONTO. 


.. 


The * University is reached from Queen St. -by College Are., which is 
4,000 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, and is lined with double rows of shade- 
trees. The buildings (open 2-5 p. m.) form the 3 sides of a quadrangle 
250 ft. sqiiare, and are of gray rubble-stone, trimmed with Ohio and Caen 
stone. The University is the finest specimen of Norman architecture in 
America, and is bold and imposing in its outlines. In the centre of the 
S. front is a massive tower 120 ft. high, with the main portal and great 
window covered with all the wealth of Norman decoration. The massive 
columns of the vestibule, and the Convocation, Library, and Museum 
halls, with their pointed oaken roofs and grotesquely carved corbels, are 
worthy of notice. To the E. is the Queen’s Park, a pleasant domain of 
50 acres, which has been leased to the city for 999 years. It is adorned 
with a costly monument to the Torontonians who were killed during the 
Fenian foray in 1866; and also with a fine bronze statue of Queen Vic¬ 
toria, near the trophy-cannon from Sebastopol. 

* St. James Cathedral is a stately Episcopal church on the corner of 
King and Church Sts. It is in the early English Gothic architecture, and 
is pleasantly secluded among fine old trees. The massive tower is to be 
crowned with a spire 275 ft. high; and the open timber-roof is 70 ft. 
above the floor of the nave. The stained glass of the lancet-windows in 
the chancel is very brilliant. Opposite the Cathedral, and beyond St. 
Lawrence Hall and Market, is the City Hall. To the N., beyond the Col¬ 
lege of Technology and the Mechanics’ Institute, is the elegant and ornate 
building of the Metropolitan Wesleyan Church, near St. Michael’s Cathe¬ 
dral (Catholic). The Normal School occupies a fine Palladian building, 
and is near the Model Schools and the Educational Museum, surrounded 
by 7\ acres of finely adorned grounds. The new Post-Office is at the 
head of Toronto St., and the Masonic Hall (on Toronto St.) has a costly 
and ornate front of Ohio stone. * Osgoode Hall is a stately Government 
building (on Queen St.) in classic architecture, and is used for the Superior 
Courts of the Province. Near the Union Railway Station are the old 
Provincial Parliament Buildings, and the homely halls of the Upper 
Canada College. 

Trinity College is W. of the city (Queen St. horse-cars), and has 
gabled and turreted buildings in 15th-century pointed architecture, situ¬ 
ated in a park of 20 acres which overlooks the bay. It was founded by 
Bishop Strachan in 1851. In this vicinity is the spacious building of the 
Provincial Lunatic Asylum, surrounded by 200 acres of ornamental 
grounds, S. of which is the exposition building called the Crystal Palace. 
The General Hospital is a large building on the E. of the city, near the 
Victoria Medical College. The Loretto Abbey (45 nuns ; on Wellington 
Place) and the Convent of the Most Precious Blood (on St. Joseph St.) 
are interesting Catholic institutions. 





KINGSTON. 


Route 59. 399 


The Canadian Navigation Co.’s steamers leave Hamilton daily at 9 a. m., and 
loronto at 2 p. m. They reach Port Hope at 6.50 p. m.; Kingston at 5.30 a. m.- 
Gananoque at 7 a. m. ; Brockville at 9.30; Prescott at 10.30; Cornwall at 1.20 
p. m.; and Montreal at 6.45 p. m. State-rooms should be secured as early as 
possible ; and travellers should be awakened on leaving Kingston, in order to see 
the Thousand Islands. 

Passing the Scarboro’ Highlands and Darlington port and harbor at 
about supper-time, the steamer reaches Port Hope (St. Lawrence Hall), 
a pretty village of Durham County. It is located in a narrow valley 
which is overlooked by the hill of Fort Orton, and is surrounded by a 
good farming country. There are 5,400 inhabitants, 7 churches, and 3 
weekly papers; and the buildings of Trinity College are seen on the hill 
to the E. The Midland Railway runs thence N. W. to Beaverton and 
Orillia (66 and 87 M.), on Lake Simcoe; also 40 M. N. to Lakefield, 
whence steamers ascend “ a chain of beautiful lakes stretching N. half¬ 
way to the Arctic Sea.” Cobourg is reached at late twilight, and is a 
.pretty town of 4,000 inhabitants, with a large trade in shipping lumber, 
iron ore, and grain to the U. S. In the N. is Victoria College, a pros¬ 
perous Wesleyan imiversity (150 students), with neat buildings in a park 
of 9 acres. A railroad runs 13 M. N. to Harwood, on the many-islanded 
Kice Lake, whence steamers ply (on Bice and Marmora Lakes) to Peter¬ 
borough (tri-weekly; 30 M. N.) and Blairton. Daily steamers run from 
Cobourg to Charlotte (see page 390). After leaving Cobourg the Montreal 
steamer passes well out into the lake to avoid the peninsular county of 
Prince Edward. At early dawn Amherst Island is passed, and by day¬ 
light the broad harbor of Kingston is entered. 

Kingston ( British American Hotel) is the chief city of Frontenac 
County, and is favorably situated at the confluence of the Cataracqui 
and St. Lawrence Bivers, at the foot of Lake Ontario, and above the head 
of the Thousand Islands. It has 13,000 inhabitants, 12 churches, 2 small 
cathedrals, 2 daily papers, and numerous manufactories. It ranks, as a 
fortress, next to Quebec and Halifax, and its harbor is defended by strong 
batteries, the chief of which is Fort Henry, on Point Frederick. The 
bay is very broad and deep, sheltered by Wolfe and Garden Islands; and 
there are provisions for making here an extensive naval depot in time of 
war. W. of the city is the Queen’s University, a Presbyterian institution, 
with faculties of arts and theology. The Catholic College of Begiopo- 
lis has handsome buildings, and the Boyal College of Physicians has 11 
professors and good collections. The Penitentiary is 2 M. W., and has 
5-600 convicts ; and the Rockwood Insane Asylum is a national institu¬ 
tion in fine buildings near by. Kingston was founded by De Courcelles 
in 1672, and after the British occupation it was made the capital of 
Upper Canada. Just beyond Kingston begins the Lake of the Thousand 
Islands , which is diversified by over 1,800 islands and islets, affording the 



400 Route 59. 


OTTAWA. 


most picturesque and romantic scenery (see page 193, Osgood’s Middle 
States). The chief summer resort of the Thousand Islands is Alexandria 
Bay, a village of N. Y. State, where there are 2 first-class hotels (* Thou¬ 
sand Islands House ; * Crossman House). After traversing the narrow 
channels of the archipelago for 40 M., the steamer reaches Brockville, a 
large Canadian village whence lumber and iron are shipped to the U. S. 
Small steamers run from this point through the Thousand Islands ; and a 
steam ferry-boat crosses every half-hour to Morristown, a N. Y. hamlet 
Below Brockville the open river is entered, and is followed, by Maitland, 
to Prescott (Daniel’s Hotel), a sombre stone-built village near the dilapi¬ 
dated bastions of Fort Wellington. On the opposite shore is the pros¬ 
perous American city of Ogdensburgh ( Seymour House; Woodman 
House), with 12,000 inhabitants and great flour and lumber mills. The 
city is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Oswegatchie Rivers, and 
is regularly laid out and handsomely built, its streets being so completely 
lined with trees as to have won for it the name of “ the Maple City.” 
The great Cathedral of St. Mary, the dome of the U. S. Post-Office, and 
the lofty elevator which terminates the long wharves are prominently 
seen from the river. Ogdensburgh was founded as a mission-station, in 
1748, by the Abbe Piquet, the patriarch of the Five Nations, was surren¬ 
dered to the U. S. in 1796, and was captured by Canadian troops in 1813. 

The St. Lawrence. & Ottawa R. R. runs 54 M. N. from Prescott, through an un¬ 
interesting region of forests and rugged clearings, and reaches Ottawa ( Russell 
Hotel), the capital of Canada. The Canadian * * Parliament House is situated 
on a lofty bluff over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic 
architecture in America or the world. The great * Victoria tower in the centre 
of the fagade is imposing in its proportions ; and the polygonal building of the 
Dominion Library is in the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and 
Chamber of Commons are worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass 
windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Victoria, and 
near the vice-regal throne are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The 
departmental buildings which flank the Parliament House are stately structures 
in harmonious architecture, and of the same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of 
Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower town are interesting; also the new 
churches of the middle town (which, like the rest of the city, is still undergoing 
a formative process). The * * Cliaudiere Palls are just above the city, where 
the broad Ottawa River plunges down over long and ragged ledges. In this 
vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the connected industries which support 
the French Canadians, who form the majority of the citizens here. S. of the city 
are the pretty Rideau Falls. Steamers depart frequently for Montreal, and for 
the remote forests of the N. 

Ottawa and the Ottawa River, see Osgood’s Middle States, page 128. 


The steamer passes out from Prescott, and leaves Fort Wellington and 
the historic Windmill Point on the 1. 3 M. below Prescott it passes 

Chimney Island, the Isle Royale of the French, who built here Fort 
Levis, with 35 cannon. This work checked Lord Amherst’s army of 
10,000 men, and was only reduced after a bombardment of 5 days’ dura¬ 
tion (1760). Off Point Cardinal the steamer enters the Gallopes Rapids ; 
and beyond Point Iroquois the Rapide de Plat is descended, and the boat 




LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 


Route 60. 401 


passes "between Morrisburgh and Waddington. 30 M. below Ogdensburgh 
is Louisville , whence stages run 7 M. E. to the Massena Springs ( Ilatjield 
House). On the N. shore, below Gooseneck Island, is Chrysler's Farm , 
where 6,000 Americans, under the incompetent Wilkinson, were defeated 
(Nov. 11, 1813) by an inferior British force, and were obliged to give up 
the advance on Montreal. The Americans lost 339 men, and retreated to 
dreary and fatal winter quarters at Fort Covington. The steamer soon 
reaches Dickinson's Landing, and enters the Long Sault Rapids, which 
fall 48 ft. in 9 M., where reaches of level water alternate with white and 
billowy inclines, and a long chain of islands divides the river into 2 
channels. At the foot of the rapids is Cornwall (Dominion Hotel), a 
village of 2,500 inhabitants, which was settled by loyalists and Hessians 
after the Revolution. A ferry runs to St. Regis, a large Indian village on 
the S. shore (see Osgood’s Middle States, page 198). 

Below St. Regis both shores are Canadian, and the river expands into 
Lake St. Francis (51? M. wide and 25 M. long), which is dotted with islets. 
On the N. shore is Lancaster; and at the outlet is the sombre French vil¬ 
lage of Coteau du Lac, at the head of 11 M. of Rapids (83 ft. fall), called 
the Coteau and the Cedar Rapids and the Cascades. At their foot is the 
village of Beauharnois, where up-bound vessels enter the Beauharnois 
Canal (S. shore ; 11 M. long, with 9 locks). Opposite this point is the 
mouth of the Ottawa River, and the Isle Perrot, where Amherst encamped 
in 1760, after losing 64 boats and 88 men in the Cedar Rapids. Here the 
steamer enters Lake St. Louis (12 x 5 M.); passes St. Clair, Chateaugay, 
and the Nuns’ Island; and opposite Caughnawaga shoots the Lachine 
Rapids (see page 372), beyond which the boat sweeps under the Victoria 
Bridge and reaches Montreal (see page 368). 

60. Quebec to Pictou and Cape Breton. The Gulf of St. 

Lawrence. 

By the vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Company. The Georgia 
leaves Montreal every alternate Friday at 4 a. m. ; reaching Quebec at 6 p. m. It 
leaves Quebec at 7 p. m., and arrives at Father Point at 10 a. m., Saturday ; leaves 
at 11 a. m., and arrives at Shediac at 2 a. m., Monday ; leaves (by rail) at 5 a. m., 
and arrives at St. John in the afternoon. The steamer reaches Charlottetown 
(Prince Edward’s Island), Monday noon, and leaves at 3 p. m., reaching Pictou at 
7 p. m. on Monday. The Secret or the Miramichi leaves Quebec at 2 p. m. Tues¬ 
days • reaches Father Point at 5 a. m., Wednesday, and leaves at 6 a. m., 175 M. 
(fare, $4; 2d class, $2) ; to Gaspe, 443 M. (fare, $10 ; 2d class, $4); to Perce, 472 
M. ($11; 2d class, $4.25); to Paspebiac, 543 M. ($13; 2d class, $5); to Dal- 
housie, 598 M. ($14 ; 2d class, $5.50) ; to Chatham, 791 M. ($14 ; 2d class, $6); to 
Newcastle, 796 M. ; to Shediac 901 M. ($15 ; 2d class. $5); to St. John, by rail, 
1 007 M. ($ 16 ; 2d class, $8); to Pictou, 1,021 M. ($16 ; 2d class, $7.50) ; to Halifax, 
by rail, 1,134 M. ($17.50 ; 2d class, $8.50). Meals and berths are included in these 
rates (state-rooms extra); and the trip to Pictou usually takes 4 days (depending 
on the nature and size of the consignments in cargo to the Gulf ports). In or¬ 
dinarily quiet weather, the traveller will not be annoyed by the motion of the 
sea. 

z 




402 Route 60. 


ISLE OF ORLEANS. 


On leaving Quebec the attention is concentrated on the beautiful ret¬ 
rospect of the lofty city and its embattled wails. On the r. are the 
heights of Point Levi; and the valley of the St. Charles is soon seen open¬ 
ing on the 1. The Islo of Orleans is next coasted on the N. side, and is 
a fertile district, 20 M. long by 5 - 6 M. wide, insulated by the N. and S. 
channels of the St. Lawrence, and famous for its lovely rural scenery. It 
was originally named the Isle of Bacchus ; and received its present title 
in honor of the royal family of France. There are five parishes on the 
island, and its chief villages are St. Laurent and St. Jean d’Orleans (1,436 
inhabitants). On the N. bank of the river, beyond the long village of Beau- 
port, with its stately church, the * Montmorenci Falls are seen, whitely 
gleaming against dark cliffs 250 ft. high. The steamer next passes the 
high and picturesque shores of Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne, 
and St. Joachim (see page 384). 

Below the Isle of Orleans the Laurentian Mts. are seen on the 1., ter¬ 
minating on the river in the bold promontory called Cap Tourmente. 
The steamer now enters the broader waters of the Lower St. Lawrence 
(20 M. wide), and passes Grosse Isle, Isle aux Coudres, Murray Bay, 
Cacouna, and Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay River (pages 385 
and 386). 16 M. below Riviere du Loirp en has is Isle Verte, with a town 

of 1,134 inhabitants, containing the public buildings of Temiscouata 
County. From the lighthouse a cannon is fired every half-hour during 
snow-storms and fogs. 40 M. farther down is L'Islet au Massacre (3 x | 
M. in area), whose name is derived from the fact that here, some 2 centu¬ 
ries ago, 200 Micmac Indians were surprised by the hostile Iroquois. The 
Micmacs were sleeping at night in a large cavern near the beach ; and 
the enemy surrounded its entrance with fagots which they set on fire. 
Nearly all of the unfortunate Nova-Scotians were massacred amid the 
flames or were suffocated by the smoke. 

In shore from the islet is the village of Bic, on the Intercolonial Rail¬ 
way; and 9 M. below is Rimouslci, with its summer hotels (sea-bathing), 
spacious cathedral, and the public buildings of Rimouski County. The 
hills of Bic and Rimouski are quite picturesque. At about 5 o’clock on 
Wednesday morning the steamer reaches Father Point, a small hamlet 
near the mouth of the Rimouski River (famous for its fisheries). At the 
lighthouse on the Point is a marine telegraph-office, and outward-bound 
vessels leave their pilots here. This vicinity is much frequented by 
sportsmen, on account of the multitudes of Canada geese, ducks, and 
brant that are found here. Beyond Father Point the steamer passes the 
maritime hamlets of Metis and Matane , and begins to round the great 
peninsula of Gaspe, a vast wilderness whose shore is dotted at wide 
distances with small fishing-stations. On the N. shore is the bold and 
dangerous Pointe de Monts, with its fog-guns and lofty lighthouse ; and 


BAY OF CHALEURS. 


Route 60. 403 


the highlands of Gaspe are passed on the r. N. E. of the vessel’s 
course, but only visible in clearest weather, is the Island of Anticosti, 
a cold and mountainous land, with vast peat-bogs and marl-beds. Its 
area is 2,600 square M., and its population is 102. Bear-hunting in the 
mts., and the pursuit of seals in the bays, form arduous but profitable 
employments ; and salmon and trout, cod and herring, are found in great 
abundance. Bounding Cape Rosier, with its lofty lighthouse, and passing 
Cape Gaspe, the steamer reaches Gaspe, a rude village of 726 inhabitants, 
situated on the edge of the trackless wilderness, and supported by the 
cod and mackerel fisheries. Back of the town is Fort Ramsay , on a tall 
hill which overlooks the deep, silent bay called the Gaspe Basin. Cartier 
landed at this point July 24, 1554. 

The steamer stops at Gaspe from 3 until 4 o’clock Thursday morning, 
then passes in sight of the tremendous and fatal cliffs of Cape Desespoir, 
and leaves the remarkable rocks at the mouth of the Bay; and at 7 A. M. 
reaches Perce, a fishing village of 1,743 inhabitants, situated amid roman¬ 
tic but desolate scenery, and containing the public buildings of Gaspe 
County. Opposite the village is Le Rocher Perce, a remarkable rock 
which rises from the water to the height of 288 ft., with a precipitous 
front 1,200 ft. long. It is pierced by 3 natural tunnels or arches, through 
one of which fishing-smacks can sail under the rock to the water on either 
side. On its lofty and inaccessible summit myriads of sea-fowl (gannets, 
cormorants, gulls, etc.) build their nests, and the neighboring fishermen 
claim that the rock is haunted by a spirit ( Le Ginie de VIsle PercS). 
Leaving Perce at 8 a. m., the steamer passes Bonaventure Island (2| x § 
M. in area), a Catholic settlement facing the surges of the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence, and in winter resembling an iceberg. The trend of the coast 
is followed to the S. W., and at 2 P. M. (Thursday) the pretty hamlet of 
Paspebiac is reached. The steamer now ascends the Bay of Chaleurs 
for 58 M., with rugged mountains to the K, and small fishing-settlements 
near the strand. At the W. end of the Bay is Dalhousie, a port of entry 
with 600 inhabitants and several churches, situated on a fine harbor at 
the mouth of the Restigouche River (draining 4,000 square M.). The 
chief industry of Dalhousie is in preserving and shipping salmon and 
lobsters. “ The Old Woman ” is a singular column of rock rising from 
the water-level near this place; and on an adjacent hill is a conspicuous 
obelisk, erected over a naval officer’s grave. Steamers ascend the Resti¬ 
gouche 16 M. to the village of Campbellton, the chief station in the N. 
on the Intercolonial Railway, and favored with a large trade in lumber 
and fish. Leaving Dalhousie late in the evening, the steamer returns to 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and rounds Miscou Island oitm leaving the 
Bay of Chaleurs. Shippegan Island (20 x 10 M. in area) is seen on 
Friday morning (in the W.), and the vessel ascends the Miramichi Bay 


404 Route 60. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 


and River for 16 M. to Chatham, a handsome seaport town with 3,000 
inhabitants, 4 churches, a cathedral, and a college. The streets are lighted' 
with gas, and the harbor can accommodate the largest ships. Immense 
quantities of lumber and fish are exported thence. The steamer crosses 
to Newcastle (6 M.; 30 min.), an active village of 1,500 inhabitants, finely 
situated on the Miramichi River, and the capital of Northumberland 
County. Leaving Newcastle at 6 o’clock Friday evening, the boat reaches 
Shediac at 2 a. m. on Saturday, and remains 1 hr. The railroad cars 
may be taken at Point du Chene, running S. W. to St. John, 108 M.; 
Bangor, 314 M.; and Boston, 560 M. (also S. to Pictou, 181 M.; and 
Halifax, 190 M.). 

The journey from Point du Chene to Pictou usually occupies 10-13 
hrs., with Prince Edwards Island on the 1., and New Brunswick and 
Nova Scotia on the r. Passing between Capes Tormentine and Traverse, 
the course is laid to the S. E., down the Northumberland Straits; and at a 
little after noon on Saturday the steamer reaches Pictou, a place of about 
4,000 inhabitants, situated in a fertile country. Large quantities of coal 
are mined about 12 M. back of Pictou, and are shipped from this port to 
England and (in limited quantities) to the United States. 

Steamers leave Pictou tri-weekly (Mon., Wed., and Fri.), on the arrival 
of the morning train from Halifax, and run to Charlottetown (in 3-4 
hrs.), the capital of Prince Edward Island, a prettily situated town 
with 7,500 inhabitants, 9 churches, 7 weekly papers, 3 banks, St. Dun- 
stan’s, the Prince of Wales, and the Methodist Colleges, a neat Govern¬ 
ment House of Nova Scotia stone, and several broad, shady, and dull 
streets running to a deep and tranquil harbor. The steamer Heather Bell 
runs thence up the Hillsborough River, through pretty scenery, to Mount 
Stewart, a flourishing shipbuilding hamlet 18 M. distant (leaves at 3 p. m., 
and returns in the evening). Steamers leave Pictou Saturdays for George¬ 
town, P. E. I.; and the popular resort at Summerside ( Island Park Hotel) 
is reached by boat from Shediac or (tri-weekly) from Charlottetown (whence 
also by railroad). 

Steamers leave Pictou every Tuesday and Thursday on the arrival of 
the morning train from Halifax, and run N. E. to Hawkesbury or Port 
Hood, maritime villages of the island of Cape Breton. Stages run thence 
to Whykokomagh , a rural hamlet picturesquely situated at the foot of the 
Bras d’Or, a sheltered salt-water lake 50 M. long, which is broken by 
promontories into deep and narrow bays. The steamboat descends the 
Bras d’Or amid beautiful scenery to Baddeck (see Charles Dudley Warner’s 
“ Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ”), the capital of Victoria County, with 
400 inhabitants, and a considerable trade with Newfoundland. 20 M. be¬ 
yond Baddeck the Neptune reaches the hamlet of Little Bras d’Or ; then 
passes the rich Sydney coal-mines, near the Atlantic. 20 M. beyond the 


ITINERARY. 


405 


mines, the boat reaches S. Sydney, situated on a noble harbor, and fa¬ 
mous for its coal-shipments (also as being the French naval station for N. 
America). It has 3,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 weekly papers. 
27 M. S. E. of S. Sydney, is the former seat of French domination in 
America, the port of Louisbourg, where France erected fortifications 
which cost over $ 6,000,000, and established a prosperous commercial 
city. After several sieges and battles the fortress was demolished by the 
British in 1763; and there now remain a few fishermen, dwelling amid 
ancient ruins which front the Atlantic. 


AN ITINERARY OF NEW ENGLAND. 

SHOWING THE STATIONS AND DISTANCES ON THE CHIEF 

RAILROADS. 

Boston to Newport and New York. 

Route 3. Page 36. The Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. — Boston to Savin Hill, 3 M. ; Harrison Square, 3f; Neponset, 5; 
Atlantic, 51; Wollaston, 6£ ; Quincy, 8; Quincy Adams, 81; Braintree, 10; S. 
Braintree, 111 (branch to Plymouth, 371); Holbrook, 15; E. Stoughton, 16|; N. 
Bridgewater, 20; Campello, 211; Matfield, 23f; E. and W. Bridgewater, 25; 
Bridgewater, 27; Titicut, 30 ; Middleboro’, 34; Lakeville, 36; Myrick’s, 42; As- 
sonet, 45; Fall River, 49 ; Tiverton, 54; Bristol Ferry, 56; Newport, 68; New 
York (by steamer), 230. 


Boston to Duxbury. 

Route 4. Page 48. The Old Colony and S. Shore R. Rs. 
Stations. — Boston to Braintree, 10 M.; E. Braintree, 11; Weymouth, 111; 
N. Weymouth, 13; E. Weymouth, 1415 W. Hingham, 16f; Hingham, 17J; Old 
Colony House, 18; Nantasket, 19 ; Cohasset, 211; N. Scituate, 23; Egypt, 24; 
Scituate, 26; S. Scituate, 28; E. Marshfield, 30; Sea View, 31; Marshfield Centre, 
32; Marshfield, 34; Webster Place, 36; Duxbury, 38; S. Duxbury, 39. 


Boston to Plymouth. 

Route 5. Page 51. Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; S. Braintree, 111 M.; S. Weymouth, 15 ; N. Abington, 
18; Abington. 1915 S. Abington, 2115 N. Hanson, 23£; Hanson, 24f; Halifax, 
281! Plympton, 30; Kingston, 33J ; Plymouth, 371. 


Boston to Cape Cod. 

Route 6. Page 54. Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. —Boston; Middleboro’, 34 M.; Rock, 39; S. Middleboro', 42; Tre- 
tnont, 45; S. Wareham, 47; Wareham, 49; Agawam, 51; Cohasset Narrows, 54 






406 


ITINERARY. 


(branch to Wood’s Hole, 72); Monument, 55; N. Sandwich, 58; W. Sandwich, 
59; Sandwich, 62; W. Barnstable, 69; Barnstable, 73; Yarmouth, 75 (branch to 
I-Iyannis, 79); S. Yarmouth, 80; S. Dennis, 81; N. Harwich, 83 ; Harwich, 84; 
Brewster, 89; E. Brewster, 92; Orleans, 94; Eastham, 97; S. Wellfleet, 103; 
Wellfleet, 106; S. Truro, 109; Truro, 111; N. Truro, 114; Provincetown, 120. 


Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. 

Route 7 . Page 58 . Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. 

Stations. — Boston; Cohasset Narrows, 54 M. ; N. Falmouth, 61; W. Fal¬ 
mouth ; Falmouth, 68; Wood’s Hole, 71; (steamer to) Martha’s Vineyard, 78; 
{steamer to) Nantucket, 116. 


Boston to Providence and New York. 

Route 8 . Page 62 . Boston & Providence, Stonington & Providence, New 
Haven, New London & Stonington, and N. Y. da New Haven R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Roxbury, 2 M.; Jamaica Plain, 3£; Forest Hill, 5; 
Readville, 8£; Canton, 14; Sharon, 174; E. Foxboro’, 214; Mansfield, 24; W. 
Mansfield, 26; Attleboro’, 31; Dodgeville, 32; Pawtucket, 39; Providence, 434; 
Auburn, 49; Hill’s Grove, 53; Greenwich, 58; Wickford, 64; Kingston, 71; 
Carolina, 77; Richmond Switch, 80; Niantic, 84; Westerly, 88; Stonington, 94; 
Mystic, 97 ; W. Mystic, 98; Noank, 102; Poquonnock Switch, 103 ; Groton ; New 
London, 106. Shore Line. — Waterford, 109; E. Lyme, 113; S. Lyme, 118; 
Lyme, 122; Conn. River, 123 ; Saybrook, 125 ; Westbrook, 128; Clinton, 133; 
Madison, 136; Guilford, 140; Stony Creek, 145; Branford, 148; Fairhaven, 154; 
New Haven, 156. N. Y. & New Haven Division. — West Haven, 158% ; Milford, 
165; Naugatuck Junction, 16S; Stratford, 170; Bridgeport, 173; Fairfield, 178; 
Southport, 180 ; Westport, 184; S. Norwalk, 187 ; Darien, 191; Noroton, 1924; 
Stamford, 195; Cos Cob Bridge, 199 ; Greenwich, 200 ; Port Chester, 203 ; Rye, 
205; Mamaroneck, 208; New Rochelle, 212; Mount Vernon, 215; Williams' 
Bridge, 218; New York, 230. 


Boston to New Bedford. 

Route 9 . Page 90 . Boston <& Providence and New Bedford R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Mansfield, 24 M. ; Norton, 28 ; Crane’s,31; Whittenton, 
34; Taunton, 35; Weir Junction, 36; Middleboro’ Junction, 39; Myrick’s, 41; 
Howland’s, 44; E. Freetown, 46 ; Braley’s, 48 ; Acuslmet, 52 ; New Bedford, 55. 


Providence to Worcester. 

Route 10 . Page 93 . Prov. & Wor. R. R. 

Stations. — Providence; Pawtudket, 4 M.; Valley Falls, 6; Lonsdale, 7; 
Ashton, 94; Albion, 11; Manville, 12; Woonsocket, 16; Waterford, 17; Black- 
stone, 18 ; Millville, 20 ; Uxbridge, 25 ; Whitin’s, 26 ; Northbridge, 31; Farnum’s, 
S3; Saundersville, 34; Sutton, 35; Millbury, 37; Worcester Junction, 42; 
Worcester, 43. 


Providence to Hartford and Waterbury. 

Route 11 . Page 94 . Hartford, Providence, & FishkiU R. R. 

Stations. — Providence ; Cranston, 4 M. ; Oak Lawn, 7; Natick, 8; River 
Point, 11 ; Quidnick, 13 ; Washington, 14; Summit, 22; Greene, 24 ; Oneco, 27 ; 


ITINERARY. 


407 


Sterling, 29 ; Moosup, 32 ; Plainfield, 35; Canterbury, 40 ; Baltic, 48 ; Scotland 
51 ; S. Windham, 55 ; Willimantie, 58 ; Andover, 67 ; Bolton, 73 ; Vernon, 74 
Manchester, 81 ; E. Hartford, 88; Hartford, 90 ; Newington, 95; New Britain, 99 
Plainville, 104; Forestville, 106 ; Bristol, 108; Terryville, 112; Hoadley’s, 119 
Waterville, 121; Waterbury, 123. 


New London to Vermont. 

Route 12 . Page 96 . New London Northern R. R. 

Stations. —New London ; Waterford, 3; Montville, 6 ; Massapeag, 8 ; Mohegan, 
10; Thamesville, 12; Norwich, 13; Yantic, 17; Franklin, 20; Lebanon, 23; S. 
Windham, 26 ; Willimantie, 30 ; Eagleville, 36; Mansfield, 38 ; Merrow, 40 ; Tol¬ 
land," 44; Stafford, 50; Ellithorpe, 53; S. Monson, 60; Monson, 61; Palmer, 65; 
Three Rivers, 68 ; Barrett’s, 70 ; Belchertown, 78 ; Dwight’s, 80 ; Amherst, 85 ; 
Leverett, 90 ; S. Montague, 95 ; Miller’s Falls, 100 ; Northfield Farms, 103 ; North- 
field, 109 ; S. Vernon, 111 ; Vernon, 116; Brattleboro’, 121; Montpelier, 249; Bur¬ 
lington, 289; St. Albans, 306; Montreal, 369. 


Norwich to Nashua. 

Route 13 . Page 104 . Nor. & Wor. and Wor. & Nashua R. Rs. 

Stations. — Norwich ; Greenville, 2 ; Jewett City, 10 ; Plainfield Junction, 
16 ; Central Village, 20 ; Wauregan, 21 ; Danielsonviile, 26 ; Daysville, 29; Put¬ 
nam, 34 ; Thompson, 36 ; Grosvenor Dale, 39 ; N. Grosvenor Dale, 40 ; Webster, 
44; N. Webster, 45; Oxford, 49 ; N. Oxford, 51; Auburn, 56; Worcester Junc¬ 
tion, 59; Worcester, 60 ; W. Boylston, 69 ; Oakdale, 70; Sterling Junction, 72; 
Clinton, 77 ; S. Lancaster, 78 ; Lancaster, 79 ; Still River, 83 ; Harvard, 85 ; Ayer 
Junction, 88 ; Groton, 91 ; Pepperell, 96; Hollis, 99 ; Nashua, 106. 


Saybrook to Hartford. 

Route 14 . Page 106 . Conn. Valley R. R. 

Stations. —(Fenwick) Saybrook Point; Junction, 2 M.; Essex, 6J; Deep 
River, 9^ ; Chester, 11J; Goodspeed’s, 14J ; Arnold’s, 17 ; Haddam, 17|; Walkley 
Hill, 19; Higganum, 20,j; Maromas, 23|; Middletown, 29; Cromwell, 31|; Rocky 
Hill, 36£; Wethersfield, 41*; Hartford, 44. 


New Haven to Northampton. 

Route 15 . Page 108 . New Haven & Northampton R. R. 

Stations.—New Haven; Ives, 8 M. ; Mt. Carmel, 9; Cheshire, 15; Hitch¬ 
cock’s, 20; Plantsville, 21; Southington, 22; Plainville, 27; Farmington, 31; 
Avon, 37; Simsbury, 42 ; Granby, 47; Southwick, 55 ; Westfield, 61 ; Southamp¬ 
ton, 68; East Hampton, 71; Northampton, 76 (Florence, 79 ; Leeds, 81; Hayden- 
ville, 83 ; Williamsburg, 84). 


Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Route 16 . Page 111 . Naugatuck R. R. 

Stations. —Bridgeport; Stratford, 3 M. ; Junction, 4; Derby, 13; Ansonia, 
15; Seymour, 19; Beacon Falls, 23; Naugatuck, 26 ; Union City, 27; Waterbury, 
32 (Oakville, 35; Watertown, 38); Waterville, 34; Plymouth, 41; Camp s Mills, 
46; Litchfield, 49; Wolcottville, 52; Burrville, 57; Winsted, 61. 





408 


ITINERARY. 


Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Route 17 . Page 114 . Housatonic R. R. 

Stations. — Bridgeport; Stepney, 10 M. ; Botsford, 15; Newtown, 19; Haw- 
leyville, 23 (Shepaug R, R. to Lichfield, 56); Brookfield Junction. 27 (trains to 
Danbury); Brookfield, 29; New Milford, 35 ; Merwinsville, 42; Kent, 48 ; Corn¬ 
wall Bridge, 57 ; W. Cornwall, 61; Lime Rock, 65 ; Falls Village, 67 ; Canaan, 73; 
Ashley Falls, 75 ; Sheffield, 79 ; Barrington, 85; Van Deusenville, 87 ; Housa- 
tonic, 89; Glendale, 92; Stockbridge, 93; S. Lee, 95; Lee, 99 ; Lenox Furnace, 
101; Lenox, 102 ; Dewey’s, 106 ; Pittsfield, 110. ■ 


S. Norwalk to Danbury. 

Route 18 . Page 115 . Danbury & Norwalk R. R. 

Stations. — S. Norwalk ; Norwalk, 2 M. ; Winnipauk, 3 ; Wilton, 7 ; George¬ 
town, 11 ; Branchville, 13 (branch to Ridgefield); Sanford’s, 15; Reading, 17 ; 
Bethel, 21; Danbury, 24. 


Boston to New London and New York. 

Route 19 . Page 117 . New York & New England R. R. & Steamboats.. 

Stations. — Boston ; Mt. Bowdoin, 4 M.; Mattapan, 6 ; Hyde Park, 8 ; Read- 
ville, 9 ; Springvale, 11 ; Ellis’, 13; Norwood, 14 ; Winslow’s, 16 ; Walpole, 19; 
Campbell’s, 22; Norfolk, 23; Franklin, 27 ; Wadsworth’s, 30 ; Blackstone, 36 ; 
Millville, 38 ; Iron Stone, 41; E. Douglas, 46 ; Douglas, 48 ; E. Thompson, 53 (South- 
bridge, 70); Thompson, 57; Mechanicsville, 60; Putnam, 61 (Willimantic, 86); 
Danielsonville, 69 ; Plainfield Junction, 79; Norwich, 95 ; New London, 108 ; New 
York (by steamer), about 220 M. 


Boston to Woonsocket. 

Stations. — Boston; Brookline, 4 M. ; Newton Centre, 8; Upper Falls, 10; 
Highlandville, 11; Needham, 12; Charles River, 14; Dover, 16 ; Medfield, 19 ; E. 
Medway, 22 ; Medway, 25; W. Medway, 26; N. Bellingham, 29 ; Bellingham, 32 ; 
Woonsocket, 37£. 


Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton. 

Route 20 . Page 120 . Conn. Western R. R. 

Stations. — Hartford ; Bloomfield, 6 M. ; Scotland ; Tariffville, 11 ; Simsbury, 
15; Stratton Brook, 17 ; Canton, 22; Collinsville, 25; Pine Meadow, 28; New 
Hartford, 29; Winsted, 35; W. Winsted, 37; Grant’s, 41; Norfolk, 45 ; W. Nor¬ 
folk, 48 ; E. Canaan, 52 ; Canaan, 55; Chapinville, 60 ; Salisbury, 62; Lakeville. 
64 ; Ore Hill, 66 ; P. & E. and N. Y., B. & M. R. Rs. Junction, 67 ; Millerton, 69. 


Boston to Springfield and New York. 

Route 21 . Page 124 . Boston <£• Albany and N. Y., N. II. & Spring- 

field R. Rs. 

Stations.— Boston; Cottage Farm, 3 M. ; Allston, 4; Brighton, 5; Faneuil, 
6; Newton, 7; Newtonville, 8; W. Newton, 9; Auburndale, 10; Riverside, 11 ; 
Rice Crossing, 12i; Grantville, 13 ; Wellesley, 15 ; Lake Crossing, 16 ; Natick, 17 ; 
S. Framingham, 21; Ashland, 24; Cordaville, 27 ; Southville, 28; Westborough, 
32; Grafton, 38; Millbury Junction, 39; Worcester, 44; Worcester Junction, 45; 
Rochdale, 53 ; Charlton, 57; Spencer, 62; E. Brookfield, 64; Brookfield, 67 ; W. 


ITINERARY. 


409 


Brookfield, 69; Warren, 73; W. Warren, 75; Brimfield, 79; Palmer, 83; Wilbra- 
liam, 89; Indian Orchard, 92; Springfield, 98 ; Longmeadow, 102; Thompsonville, 
107 ; Warehouse Point, 110 ; Windsor Locks, 112 ; Windsor, 118 ; Hartford, 124; 
Newington, 129; Berlin, 135 ; Meriden, 142; Yalesville, 145 ; Wallingford, 148; 
N. Haven, 154; New Haven, 160; Bridgeport, 177; S. Norwalk, 191; Stamford, 
199 ; Williams’ Bridge, 222 ; New York, 234. 


The Berkshire Hills. 

Route 23. Page 142. Boston & Albany and Housatonic R. Rs. 

Stations.—Boston; Becket, 135 M.; Washington, 13S; Hinsdale, 143; Dalton, 
146; Pittsfield Junction, 149; Pittsfield, 151; Shaker Village, 154; Richmond, 
159 ; State Line, 162. 

Housatonic R. R. — Pittsfield, 151 M. from Boston; Dewey’s, 155; Lenox, 159; 
Lenox Furnace, 160; Lee, 162; S. Lee, 166; Stockhridge, 168; Glendale, 169; 
Housatonic, 172 ; Van Deusenville, 174; Barrington, 176; Sheffield, 182 ; Ashley 
Falls, 186 ; Canaan, 188. 

Pittsfield dt N. Adams Branch. — Pittsfield, 151; Coltsville, 154; Berkshire, 157 ; 
Cheshire, 160; Cheshire Harbor, 163; Maple Grove, 164; S. Adams, 165; N. 
Adams, 171. 

New York to Quebec. 

Route 24. Page 157. IV. F, JV. II. & Hartford , Conn. River , Cen¬ 
tral Vermont, Passumpsic, and Grand Trunk R. Rs. 

Stations. — New York; Stamford, 34 ; Bridgeport, 56; New Haven, 74; Hart¬ 
ford, 110; Springfield, 136. Conn. River R. R.—Chicopee Junction, 140; Willi- 
mansett, 143; Holyoke, 144; Smith’s Ferry, 149; Mt. Tom, 151 ; Northampton, 
153; Hatfield, 157; N. Hatfield, 160; Whately, 162; S. Deerfield, 164; Deerfield, 
169; Greenfield, 172; Bemardston, 179; S. Vernon, 186. Central Vermont R. R.— 
Vernon, 191; Brattleboro’, 196; Dummerston, 201; Putney, 205; E. Putney, 208; 
Westminster, 216; Bellows Falls, 222; Charlestown, 230; Springfield, 231; Clare¬ 
mont, 240; Windsor, 248; Hartland, 252; N. Hartland, 256; White River Junc¬ 
tion, 262. Passumpsic R. R. — Norwich, 267; Pompanoosuc, 272 ; Thetford, 277 ; 
N. Thetford, 279; Fairlee, 284; Bradford, 291; S. Newbury, 295; Newbury, 298 ; 
Wells River, 302; Barnet, 313; Passumpsic, 320; St. Johnsbury, 323; Lyndon- 
ville, 331; W. Burke, 339; Barton, 352; Coventry, 362; Newport, 367; N. Derby, 
372; Smith’s Mills, 377; Massawippi, 388; N. Hatley, 395; Capleton, 398 ; Len- 
noxviMe, 404; Sherbrooke, 407. Grand Trunk Railway. —Quebec, 426 (Montreal, 
406). 

Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel. 

Route 25. Page 175. Fitchburg and Vt. & Mass. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Cambridge, 3; Behnont, 6; Waverly, 7; Waltham, 10; 
Stony Brook, 12; Weston, 13; Lincoln, 17; Concord, 20; S. Acton, 25; W. Acton, 
27; Littleton, 31; Ayer Junction, 35; Shirley, 40; Lunenburg, 42; Leominster, 
46; Fitchburg, 50. Vt. & Mass. R. R.—Wachusett, 53; Westminster, 55; Ash- 
burnham, 61; Gardner, 65 ; Baldwinville, 71; Royalston, 77; Athol, 83 ; Orange, 
S7 ; Wendell, 90; Erving, 92; Grout’s Corner, 98; Montague, 102; Greenfield, 106 ; 
Shelburne Falls, 119; Chaiiemont, 128 ; Zoar, 132 ; Hoosac Tunnel, 136. 


Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

Route 26. Page 179. Fitchburg, Cheshire, and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; S. Acton, 25; Fitchburg, 50; W. Fitchburg, 51; West¬ 
minster, 55; S. Ashburnbam, 60; N. Ashburnliam, 64 ; Winchendon, 68 (branch 
to Peterboro’, 85); State Line, 71; Fitzwilliam, 77; Troy, 82; Marlboro’, 86; S. 

18 


410 


ITINERARY. 


Keene, 90; Keene, 92 (branch to S. Vernon, 116); E. Westmoreland, 100; West¬ 
moreland, 104; Walpole, 110; Cold River, 113; Bellows Falls, 114. Central 
Vermont R. R. — Rockingham, 119; Bartonsville, 123; Chester, 127; Gassett’s, 
132; Cavendish, 136; Proctorsville, 138; Ludlow, 141; Healdville, 147; Summit, 
148; Mt. Holly, 151; E Wallingford, 153; Cuttingsville, 157; Clarendon, 160; 
Rutland, 166; Sutherland Falls, 173; Pittsford* 176; Brandon, 183; Leicester 
Junction, 188; Salisbury, 193; Middlebury, 199; Brooksville, 203; New Haven, 
207; Vergennes, 213'; Ferrisburgh, 215; N. Ferrisburgh, 218; Charlotte, 222; 
Shelburne, 227; Burlington, 234; Winooski, 237; Essex Junction, 242; St. Al¬ 
bans, 267; Montreal, 337. 


Rutland to Bennington. 

Route 27. Page 18l. Harlem Extension R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland; Clarendon, 6 M.; Wallingford, 9; S. Wallingford, 13; 
Danby and Mt. Tabor, 18; N. Dorset, 22; E. Dorset, 25; Manchester, 30; Sun¬ 
derland, 36; Arlington, 39; Shaftesbury, 44; S. Shaftesbury, 49; N. Bennington, 
51; Bennington, 55 (Lebanon Springs, 81; Albany, 136). 


Rutland to Albany. 

Route 28. Page 187. Rensselaer <£ Saratoga R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland; Centre Rutland, 2 ; W. Rutland, 4 ; Castleton, 11; 
Hydeville, 18; Fairliaven, 21; Whitehall, 29; Comstock’s, 35; Fort Ann, 39; 
Smith’s Basin, 43, Dunham’s Basin, 48; Fort Edward, 51; Gansevoorts, 57; 
Saratoga, 68; Ballston, 74; Mec.hanicsville, 88; Albany Junction, 94 (Troy, 100); 
Waterford, 98; Cohoes, 98; W. Troy, 101; Cemetery, 103; Albany, 107. 

Rutland & Washington Division. — Rutland; Castleton, 11; Poultney, 18; Middle 
Granville, 24; Granville, 26; Pawlet, 29; Rupert, 36; Salem, 45 ; Shuslian, 52; 
Cambridge, 57 ; Eagle Bridge, 63 ; Troy, 85. 


Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

Route 29. Page 188. Boston, Lowell, <£• Nashua, Northern (N. II.), 
Central Vt., and Grand Trunk R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; W. Medford, 5 M.; Winchester, 8; E. Woburn, 9 (Stone- 
ham); Wilmington, 15; Billerica, 19; N. Billerica, 22; Lowell, 26; N. Chelms¬ 
ford, 29; Tyngsboro’ and Dunstable, 33; Little’s, 39; Nashua, 40; Thornton’s, 
46; Reed’s, 49; Goff’s Falls, 53; Manchester, 57 ; Martin’s, 62; Hookset, 66; 
Sunc.ook, 70; Concord, 75. Northern (N. H.) R. R. — Fisherville, 82; Boscawen, 
85; N. Boscawen, 89; Franklin, 94 (branch to Bristol, 107); E. Andover, 100; 
Potter Place, 106; W. Andover, 108; Danbury, 114; Grafton, 119; Canaan, 127; 
Enfield, 134; E. Lebanon, 136; Lebanon, 140; White River Junction, 144. 
Central Vermont R. R. — Woodstock, 148; W. Hartford, 152; Sharon, 157; S. 
Royalton, 162; Royalton, 164; Bethel, 169; Randolph, 176; Braintree, 182; 
Roxbury, 191; Northfield, 198; Montpelier Junction, 207 (Montpelier, 208); 
Middlesex, 212; Waterbury, 217; Bolton, 225; Jonesville, ’227; Richmond, 231; 
Williston, 236; Essex Junction, 240 (Burlington, 248); Colchester, 244; Milton, 
251; Georgia, 255; St. Albans, 265; E. Swanton, 274 ; Highgate Springs, 278 ; 
Province Line, 282; St. Armand, 2S3; Moore’s. 286; Standbridge, 290; Des 
Rivieres, 292; St. Alexandre, 299; St. John’s, 308. Grand Trunk Railway. — La- 
cadie, 315 ; Brousseau’s, 323; St. Lambert, 328 ; Montreal, 335. 

Nashua to Wilton. Page 192. 

Nashua; S. Merrimack, 5 M.; Amherst, 8; Milford, 11; Wilton, 15; Lynde- 
boro’, 19 ; Greenfield, 26. 


ITINERARY. 


411 


Concord to Claremont. Page 196. 

Concord ; W. Concord, ; Mast Yard, 8 ; Contoocook, 12 (Henniker, 20 ; Hills¬ 
boro’Bridge, 27); Dimond’s Corner, 14^; Warner, 1S|; Waterloo, 21; Roby’s 
Corner, 23; Melvin’s Mills, 25; Bradford, 274; Newbury, 34 ; Chandler’s, 364; 
Sunapee, 40 ; Newport, 43; Northville,46; Kelly ville, 48; Claremont, 54 £ ; Clare¬ 
mont Junction, 565 . 


St. Albans to Richford. Page 206. 

St. Albans ; Sheldon, 10 ; N. Sheldon, 13 ; E. Franklin, 15 ; Enosburgh Falls. 
18; E. Berkshire, 24; Richford, 28. 


Boston to the Franconia Mts. 

Route 30. Page 209. Boston, Lowell <£ Nashua, and Boston, Concord & 

Montreal ,R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Lowell, 26; Nashua, 40; Manchester, 57; Concord, 75. 
B., C. & M. R. R. — E. Concord, 77 ; Canterbury, 85; Northlield, 88 ; Tilton, 93 ; 
Union Bridge, 97 ; Laconia, 102 ; Lake Village, 104 ; Weirs, 108 ; Meredith, 112 ; 
Ashland, 120 ; Plymouth, 126 ; Rumney, 134 ; W. Rumney, 137 ; Wentworth, 142 ; 
Warren, 146; E. Haverhill, 154 ; Haverhill, 159 ; N. Haverhill, 164 ; Woodsville, 
168 ; Wells River, 168; Bath, 173 ; Lisbon, 178 ; N. Lisbon, 183 ; Littleton, 188 ; 
Wing Road, 195 (Bethlehem, 200; Twin Mt. House, 204; Fabyan House, 209); 
Whiteiield, 200; Dalton, 203; S. Lancaster, 206; Lancaster, 210; Northumber¬ 
land Falls, 215; Northumberland, 220. 


Boston to the White Mountains. 

Route 31. Page 213. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. —Boston; Salem, 16 M. ; Newburyport, 36 ; Portsmouth, 56; Con¬ 
way Junction, 67 ; S. Berwick, 69; Salmon Falls, 70 ; Great Falls, 73 ; Rochester, 
79; Hayes, 84; S. Milton, 85; Milton, 87; Union, 93; Wolfboro’ Junction, 97 
(Wolf boro’, 108) ; Wakefield, 99 ; E. Wakefield, 103; N. Wakefield, 106 ; Ossipee 
111 ; Centre Ossipee, 115 ; W. Ossipee, 121; Madison, 125 ; Conway, 132; N. Con¬ 
way, 137. 


Portland to Rochester. 

Page 213. P. & R. R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Morrill’s, 2 M.; Cumberland Mills, 5; Sacarappa, 6 ; 
Gorham, 10; Buxton Centre, 15; Saco River, 18 ; Hollis Centre, 20; Centre 
Waterboro’, 25 ; S. Waterboro’, 28 ; Alfred, 32 ; Springvale, 36; E. Lebanon, 44; 
E. Rochester, 49 ; Rochester, 52. 


Boston to Cape Ann. 

Route 36. Page 245. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; Beverly, 18 M.; Beverly Farms ; Manchester, 24; Glou¬ 
cester, 33 ; Rockport, 36. 


Boston to Portland. 

Route 37. Page 248. Eastern R. R . 

Stations. — Boston ; Somerville, 2 ; Everett 5 Chelsea, 4 ; Revere, 5; Lynn, 
11; Swampscott, 12; Salem, 16; Beverly, 18; N. Beverly, 20; Wenham and 
Hamilton, 22; Ipswich, 27; Rowley, 31; Newburyport, 36; Salisbury, 38; Sea- 



412 


ITINERARY. 


brook, 42; Hampton, 46 ; N. Hampton, 49 ; Greenland, 51 ; Portsmouth, 56 ; Kit- 
tery, 574 ; Elliot, 63.; Conway Junction, 67 ; S. Berwick Junction, 70 ; N. Berwick, 
74 ; Wells, 80 ; Kennebunk, 85; Kennebunkport, 89; Biddeford, 93 ; Saco, 94|; 
W. Scarboro’, 99; Scarboro’, 101; Cape Elizabeth, 106; Portland, 108. 


Salem to Lowell. 

Page 255. Salem & Loioell R. R. 

Stations. — Salem; Carltonville, 1 M. ; Peabody, 2 ; Proctor’s Comer, 4; W. 
Danvers, 5; Phelps Mills, 6; Paper Mills, 8; N. Reading, 10; Wilmington, 14; 
Wilmington Junction, 15; Burtt’s, 16; Tewksbury Junction, 18; Tewksbury, 19; 
Mace’s, 21; Bleachery, 23; Lowell, 24. 


Portsmouth to Concord. 

Page 267. Portsmouth R. R. 

Stations. — Portsmouth ; Greenland, 4 M. ; Stratham ; New Market Junction, 
10 ; Littlefield’s; Epping, 18 ; W. Epping; Raymond, 23 ; Candia, 29; Auburn, 
33 ; Massabesic, 36 ; Manchester, 41; Hooksett, 51; Concord, 59. 


Boston to Portland. 

Route 38 . Page 275 . Boston & Maine R. R. 

Stations. — Boston; Charlestown, 1 M.; Somerville, 2; Medford Junction, 
4 (Medford, 5); Malden, 5; Wyoming, 6; Melrose, 7; Stoneham, 8; Greenwood, 
9; Wakefield Junction, 10; Wakefield, 10|; Reading, 12 ; Wilmington Junction, 
18; Ballardvale, 21; Andovei’, 23; S. Lawrence, 26; N. Lawrence, 27 ; N. Ando¬ 
ver, 28; Bradford, 32; Haverhill, 33 ; Atkinson, 37; Plaistow, 38 ; Newton, 41 ; 
E. Kingston Depot, 45 ; Exeter, 51; S. Newmarket, 55; Newmarket Junction, 
58; Bennett Road, 60; Durham, 62; Madbury, 64; Dover, 68; Rollinsford, 71 
(Great Falls, 73); Salmon Falls, 72; S. Berwick Junction, 74; N. Berwick, 78; 
Wells, 85; Kennebunk, 90; Biddeford, 99; Saco, 100; Old Orchard Beach, 104; 
Blue Point; Scarboro’, 109; Lygonia; Portland, 116. 

Lawrence to Manchester. Page 279. 

Stations. — Lawrence; Methuen, 2 M.; Messers, 3; Salem, 7; Windham, 12; 
Derry, 15 ; Wilson’s, 18 ; Londonderry, 20 ; Manchester, 26. 

Lawrence to Lowell. Page 279. 

Stations. — N. Lawrence ; S. Lawrence, 1 M.; Haggett’s Pond, 4 ; Tewksbury 
Junction, 7 ; Tewksbury, 8 ; Mace’s, 10 ; Bleachery, 12 ; Lowell, 13. 

Haverhill to Newbury port. Page 280. 

Stations. —Haverhill; Bradford, i ,; Haverhill Bridge, 14; Groveland, 4| ; 
Georgetown, 74 ; Byfield, 104; Newburyport, 164. 

Wakefield to Newburyport. Page 276. 

Boston ; Wakefield Junction, 10 M.; Lynnfield Centre, 13; W. Danvers, 16; Dan¬ 
vers, 19; Topsfield, 25; Boxford, 28; Georgetown, 31; Byfield, 34 ; Newburyport, 40. 

Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee. Page 282. 

Boston ; Dover, 68 M.; Gonic, 76; Rochester, 78 : Place’s, 82; Farmington, 86; 
Davis’, 90; New Durham, 92 ; Alton, 95; Alton Bay, 96. 


Portland to the White Mountains. 

Route 39. Page 284. Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. 
Stations. —Portland; Westbrook, 5 M. ; S. Windham, 11; White Rock, 13s; 


ITINERARY. 


413 


Sebago Lake, 16f; Steep Falls, 24|; Baldwin, 30; W. Baldwin, 33|; Hiram Bridge, 
36; Brownfield, 43; Fryeburg, 49; Conway Centre, 55; N. Conway,' 60 ; Glen Road, 
66 j Upper Bartlett, 72; Bemis, 80. 


Portland to Quebec and Montreal. 

Route 40. Page 287. Grand Trunk Railway. 

Stations. — Portland; Falmouth, 5 M. ; Cumberland, 9; Yarmouth, 11; Yar¬ 
mouth Junction, 12; Pownal, 18; New Gloucester, 22; Danville Junction, 27 ; 
Mechanic Falls, 36; Oxford, 41; S. Paris, 47; W. Paris, 55; Locke’s Mills, 65; 
Bethel, 70; Gilead, 80; Shelburne, 86; Gorham, 91; Berlin Falls, 98; Milan, 103 ; 
Groveton (Northumberland), 122; N. Stratford, 134 ; Wenlock, 142 ; Island Pond, 
149; Norton Mills, 166; Coaticooke, 175; Richbv, 179; Compton, 183 ; Lennox- 
ville, 193; Sherbrooke, 196; Windsor, 211; Richmond, 221 (Quebec Branch); New 
Durham, 231 ; Acton, 243; Upton, 249 ; Britannia Mills, 255 ; St. Hyacinthe, 262; 
Soixante, 269; St. Hilaire, 275; St. Bruno, 282; St. Hubert, 287; St. Lambert, 
292; Montreal, 297. 

Quebec Branch. Page 290. 

Portland; Richmond, 221 M.; Danville, 233; Warwick, 246; Arthabaska, 253; 
Stanfold, 262; Somerset, 268 ; Becancour, 276 ; Lyster, 280; Methot's Mills, 289 ; 
Black River. 297; Craig’s Road, 302 ; Chaudiere Curve, 309; Hadlow, 315; Quebec 
(Point Levi), 317. 


Portland to Farmington. 

Route 41. Page 291. Androscoggin Division, Eastern & Maine Cen¬ 
tral R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Brunswick, 29 M.; Lisbon Falls, 37; Lisbon, 41; 
Crowley’s, 43 (Lewiston, 48) ; Sabattisville, 48 ; Leeds Junction, 55; Curtis Cor¬ 
ner, 60 ; Leeds Centre, 62; N. Leeds, 65; Strickland’s Ferry, 67 ; E. Livermore, 
70; Livermore Falls, 75 ; Jay Bridge, 77 ; N. Jay, 81; Wilton, 84; E. Wilton, 87 ; 
Farmington, 92 (Rangely Lakes, 132 M.). 


Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

Route 42. Page 293. E. & M. C. R. R. 

Stations. —Portland; Brunswick, 29; Gardiner, 56; Waterville, 81; Fair- 
field, 84; Pishon Ferry, 92 ; Skowhegan, 100. 

Bangor to Guilford. 

Page 295. Bangor & Piscataquis R. R. 

Stations. — Bangor; Oldtown, 12|; Pea Cove, 17; Bennoch Road, 19|; Al¬ 
ton, 21; Penny’s, 25 ; S. Lagrange, 27 ; Lagrange, 31 ; Omeyville, 34 ; Milo, 40; 
S. Sebec, 45J ; E. Dover, 50; Dover and Foxcroft, 521; Low’s Bridge, 57; Sanger- 
ville, 59| j Guilford, 61. 


Portland to Rockland. 

Route 44. Page 297. Maine Central and Knox & Lincoln R. Rs. 

Stations. — Portland; Brunswick, 29; Bath, 42; Woolwich, 43. Knox & 
Lincoln R. R. — Nequasset, 45 ; Montsweag, 48|; Wiscasset, 53 ; New Castle and 
Damariscotta, 60 ; Damariscotta Mills, 62 ; Nobleboro’, 65 ; Winslow’s Mills, 70 ; 
Waldoboro’, 72; Warren, 79 ; Georges River, 84|; Tliomaston, 87 ; Rockland, 91. 





414 


ITINERARY. 


Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Route 46. Page 307. Eastern, A Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Cumberland, 12; New Gloucester; Danville Junction, 
29 ; Auburn, 33 ; Lewiston, 35 ; Greene, 43 ; Leeds, 40; Monmouth, 49 ; Winthrop, 
55 ; Readfield, 61; Belgrade, 69 ; West Waterville, 78; Waterville, 84 ; Burnham, 
97 ; Newport, 111; Bangor, 138. 


Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Route 47. Page 309. Eastern & Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Woodford’s; Westbrook, 5; Cumberland, 12; Yar¬ 
mouth, 17 ; Freeport, 22 ; Oak Hill; Brunswick 29 ; Topsham ; Bowdoinham ; 
Richmond, 40; Gardiner, 56; Hallowell, 61; Augusta, 63 ; Riverside, 75 ; Vas- 
salboro’; Winslow, 81; Waterville, 84 ; Benton, 87; Clinton, 92; Burnham, 97 ; 
Pittsfield, 104; Detroit; Newport, 111; E. Newport; Etna, 119; Carmel, 123; 
Hermon Pond, 128 ; Bangor, 138. 


Bangor to St. John. 

Route 49. Page 318. European <£• North American R. R. 

Stations. —Bangor; Veazie, 5; Basin Mills, 7*; Sidney, 8; Orono, 8* ; Web¬ 
ster, 8*; Great Works, 11*; Oldtown, 12*; Milford, 13; Costigan, 18; Green- 
bush, 23; Olamon, 27; Passadumkeag, 30; Enfield, 36; Lincoln, 45; Lincoln 
Centre, 46 ; Winn, 56 ; Mattawamkeag, 58 ; Kingman, 66; Bancroft, 79 ; Danfortli, 
88 ; Jackson Brook, 93; Eaton, 102; Wilderness, 107 ; Lambert Lake, 109 ; Vanee- 
boro, 114; St. Croix, 115; Me Adam Junction, 120; Maguadavick, 129 ; Harvey, 
139; Cork, 144; Tracy, 156; Fredericton Junction, 160; Blissville, 164; Hoyt, 
167 ; Enniskillen, 170 ; Gaspereaux, 173 ; Clarendon, 176 ; Welsford, 180 ; Nerepis, 
186; Westfield, 190; Grand Bay, 194; Sutton, 198; South Bay 199; Fairville, 
202 ; Carle ton, 205 ; St. John, 206. 


The New Brunswick Border. 

Route 50. Page 321. New Brunswick & Canada R. R. 

Stations. — St. Andrews ; Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett’s, 11; Waweig, 13 ; Roix 
Road, 15; Hewitt’s, 19; Rolling Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 27 
(branch to Meadows, from Watt, 4 M. ; Moore’s Mills, 11; Maxwell, 14 ; St. Ste¬ 
phens and Calais, 19); Lawrence, 29; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam Junction, 43; 
Deer Lake, 59; Canterbury, 65; Benton, 75; Wickham, 80; Debec Junction, 83 
(Greenville, 87; Houlton, 91) ; Hodgdon, 91 ; Woodstock, 94. 


Worcester to Mount Wachusett. 

Boston, Barre & Gardner R. R. 

Stations. — Worcester; Lincoln Square, 1 M. ; Barbers, 3 ; N. Worcester, 4*; 
Chaffin’s, 6; Holden, 8; Jefferson’s, 9*; North Woods, 11; Brook, 13; Prince¬ 
ton, 16 ; Hubbardston, 20 ; Waites, 23 ; Gardner, 26 ; Winchendon, 36. 


Montpelier to Wells River. 

Page 200. M. & W. R. R. R. 

Stations. — Montpelier ; E. Montpelier, 6 M.; Plainfield, 10 ; Marshfield, 15 T ; 
Kinney’s Mills, 17*; Summit, 20; Peabody Station, 21*; Ricker’s Mills, 25; 
Groton, 23* ; S. Ryegate, 32 ; Boltonville, 34* ; Wells River, 38. 



SUMMER EXCURSIONS. 


415 


W. Concord to Hyde Park. 

Portland and Ogdensburgh R. R. 

Stations. — W. Concord ; E. St. Johnsbury, 4 M.; St. Johnsbury, 8; Danville, 
20; W. Danville, 23 ; Walden, 28 ; Greensboro, 36; E. Hardwick, 39 ; Hardwick, 
43 ; Wolcott, 49 ; Morrisville, 57 ; Hyde Park, 60. 


New York to Albany. 

Route, 52. Page 340. The Hudson River R. R. or Steamboats. 

Stations. —Grand Central Depot; Spuyten Duyvil, 11 M.; Riverdale, 12; 
Mt. St. Vincent, 13 ; Yonkers, 14£ ; Hastings, 19 ; Dobbs’ Ferry, 20 ; Irvington, 
22; Tarrytown (and Nyack), 25; Scarborough, 29; Sing Sing, 30; Croton, 34; 
Cruger’s, 37 ; Montrose, 38 ; Peekskill, 41 ; Fort Montgomery, 45 ; Garrison’s (West 
Point), 49; Cold Spring, 52; Cornwall Station, 54; D. & C. Junction, 57; Fish- 
kill (Newburgh), 58; Low Point, 62; New Hamburgh, 64; Milton Ferry, 69; 
Poughkeepsie, 73 ; Hyde Park, 78 ; Staatsburgh, 83 ; Rhinebeek, 88 ; Barrytown, 
94; Tivoli, 98; Germantown, 104 ; Livingston, 107 ; Catskill Station, 109; Hud¬ 
son, 114 ; Stockport, 118 ; Coxsackie, 121 ; Stuyvesant, 123; Schodack, 129; Cas- 
tleton, 133 ; E. Albany, 141 ^; Albany 142; Troy, 148. 


Albany to Montreal. 

Route 53. Page 350. Rensselaer & Saratoga and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Albany ; Cemetery, 4 M. ; W. Troy, 6; Cohoes, 9 ; Waterford, 11 ; 
Junction 12 (here the Albany Division joins the main line, coming from Troy, 6 

M. distant); Mechanicsville, 18; Round Lake, 24; Ballston, 32; Saratoga, 38; 
Gansevoort’s, 49 ; Moreau, 54 ; Fort Edward, 55 (branch to Glen’s Falls, in 6 M.) ; 
Dunham’s Basin, 58 ; Smith’s Basin, 63 ; Fort Ann, 67; Comstock’s, 71 ; White¬ 
hall (Junction, 77 ; Lake Champlain, 79); Fairhaven, 85; Hydeville, 88; Castle- 
ton, 95 ; W. Rutland, 102 ; Centre Rutland, 104 ; Rutland, 106. Stations on the 
Central Vermont R. R. — Rutland, 106 M. from Albany; Sutherland Falls, 113; 
Pittsford, 116 ; Brandon, 123 ; Leicester Junction, 128 ; Salisbury, 133 ; Middle- 
bury, 139 ; Brooksville, 143 ; New Haven, 147 ; Vergennes, 153 ; Ferrisburgh, 155 ; 

N. Ferrisburgh, 158 ; Charlotte, 162 ; Shelburne, 167 ; Burlington, 174 ; Winooski, 
177; Essex Junction, 182; Colchester, 186; Milton, 193 ; Georgia, 197; St. Al¬ 
bans, 207 ; St. John’s, 250 ; Montreal, 277. 


SUMMER EXCURSIONS. 


Central Vermont R. R. and Connecting Lines. 

(102.) R. R., Boston to Nashua, Concord, White River Junction, and Montreal; 
returning by Bellows Falls^ and Fitchburg to Boston. Fare, $ 20. (117.) R. R., 
Boston to Nashua, Concord, White River Junction, and Montreal; steamers to 
Quebec and the Saguenay River, and return to Quebec ; R. R. to Sherbrooke, White 
River Junction, Concord, and Boston. Fare, $31. (148.) R.R., Boston to Con¬ 

cord, White River Junction, and Malone; stages to Paul Smith’s and Ausable 
Station; R. R. to Plattsburgh; steamer to Burlington; R. R. to Bellows Falls, 
Fitchburg, and Boston. Fare, $26. (160.)’ R. R., Boston to Concord, White 
River Junction, and Burlington ; steamer to Fort Ticonderoga ; stage to Lake 
George; steamer to Caldwell ; stage to Glens Falls ; R. R. to Saratoga, Troy, and 
North Adams; stage to Hoosac Tunnel; R. R. to Boston. Fare, $21.00. (182.) 
Sound steamer, Boston to New York ; Hudson River steamer to Albany; R. R. 



416 


SUMMER EXCURSIONS. 


to Glens Falls; stage to Caldwell; steamer to foot of Lake George ; stage to Ti- 
conderoga ; steamer to Burlington ; It. R. to White River Junction, Concord, and 
Boston. Fare, $22.00. (200.) R. R., Boston to Fitchburg, Bellows Falls, Rut¬ 
land, Saratoga, Schenectady, Utica, and Clayton ; steamer to Alexandria Bay, 
Prescott, and Ogdensburgli ; R. R. to White River Junction, Concord, and Bos¬ 
ton. Fare, $24.00. (204.) R. R., Boston to Concord, White River Junction, and 
Waterbury ; stage to Stow (Mt. Mansfield) ; return to Boston by same route. Fare, 
$15. (284.) Sound steamer from Boston to New York ; Hudson River steamer to 

Albany ; rail to Glens Falls ; stage to Caldwell; steamer to foot of Lake George ; 
stage to Ticonderoga ; steamer to Burlington ; rail to White River Junction and 
Littleton ; stage to Profile House and Bethlehem; rail to Fabyan House ; stage 
toBemis’; rail to Portland and Boston. Fare, $34.75. (300.) Sound steamer from 
Boston to New York; rail to Philadelphia, Manunka Chunk, Delaware Water 
Gap, Syracuse, Schenectady, Saratoga, and Whitehall; steamer to Burlington ; 
rail to White River Junction, Concord, and Boston. Fare, $27.30. (316.) Sound 
steamers from Boston to New York ; rail to Philadelphia, Harrisburgli, Sunbury; 
and Watkins Glen ; steamer to Geneva ; rail to Niagara Falls ; steamer to Toronto 
and Montreal; rail to White River Junction, Concord, and Boston. Fare, $38.50. 
(346.) Rail from Boston to Fitchburg, Bellows Falls, and Ogdensburgh ; steamer 
to Port Dalhousie (all included); rail to St. Catherine’s and Niagara Falls ; re¬ 
turning by the same route to White River Junction, Concord, and Boston. Fai'e, 
$27.00. 

Eastern Railroad and Connecting Lines . 

(1.) Boston to Wolfboro’; steamer to Weirs ; R. R. to Concord, Nashua, and 
Boston. 235 M. ; fare, $6.80. (2.) Boston to N. Conway ; stages to Glen House 

and Gorham ; R. R. to Portland and Boston. 360 M. ; fare, $16. (3.) Boston to 
N. Conway; R. R. to Wolfboro’; steamer to Weirs; R. R. to Concord, Nashua, 
and Boston. 315 M. ; fare, $10.75. (4.) Boston to N. Conway; stage and R. R. 
by Crawford House to top of Mt. Washington ; stages to Glen House and N. Con¬ 
way ; R. R. to Boston. 325 M. ; fare, $25.50. (5.) Boston to N. Conway ; stages 

to Crawford and Profile Houses and Littleton ; R. R. to Plymouth, Concord, 
Nashua, and Boston. 385 M. ; fare, $20.65. (6.) Boston to Portland and Gorham; 
stages to Glen House and top of Mt. Washington; R. R. to base of the Mt. ; stages 
to Crawford and Profile Houses and Littleton ; B. C. & M. R. to Plymouth and 
Weirs; steamboat to Wolfboro’ ; E. R. R. to Boston. 460 M. ; fare, $31.55. (7.) 
Boston to N. Conway; stages to Crawford and Profile House and Littleton ; B. 
C. & M. R. R. to Plymouth and Weirs; steamboat to Wolfboro’; R. R. to Boston. 
400 M. ; fare, $21.55. (8.) Boston to N. Conway ; P. & O. R. R. to Portland ; E. 
R. R. to Boston. 300 M. ; fare, $10. (9.) Boston to Wolfboro’ and return (E. R. 
R.). 216 M. ; fare, $5. (10.) Boston to Wolfboro’ ; steamboat to Centre Harbor; 
return same way. 256 M. ; fare, $5.50. (11.) R R., Boston to Portland ; steamer 
to Mt. Desert and Portland ; R. R. to Boston. 500 M.; fare, $12. (12.) E. R. R., 
Boston to Portland and Dexter; stage to Greenville; steamer on Mooseliead Lake 
to Mt. Kineo House; and return to Boston by same route. 625 M. ; fare, $ 15. 
(13.) E. R. R., Boston to Bangor and Fredericton (N. B.) ; steamer to St. John ; 
R. R., St. John to Boston. 930 M. ; fare, $19.50. (14.) E. R. R., Boston to 
Bangor and St.John; Intercolonial Railway to Halifax; Windsor & Annapolis 
Railway to St. John ; E. & M. C. R. R., etc., to Boston. 1,375 M.; fare, $27.50. 
(15.) R. R., Boston to Bangor, St. John, and Point du Chene; steamer to Sum- 
merside and Charlottetown (Prince Edward’s Island) and Pictou ; R. R. to St. 
John, Bangor, and Boston. 1,400 M. ; fare, $30.20. (16.) R. R., Boston to St. 
John and Point du Chene ; Gulf Ports Steamship to Quebec ; Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way to Portland; E. R. R. to Boston. 1,890 M.; fare, $39.70. (17.) R. R., Bos¬ 
ton to Bangor, St. John, and Shediac. ; steamer to Sunlmerside and Charlottetown 
(P. E. I.) and Pictou; R. R. to Halifax, Windsor, and St. John ; R. R. to Boston. 
1,480 M.; fare, $32.30. 


Certain slight disarrangements have taken place in the above routes, especially 
in those about the White Mts. (by reason of the farther construction of the rail¬ 
roads), but the changes will be but trifling. Tickets and information may be ob¬ 
tained of Geo. F. Field, General Passenger Agent of the Eastern R. R., at 134 
\\ashington St., Boston ; and of T. Edward Bond, Ticket Agent of the Central 
Vermont R. R., 65 Washington St., Boston. 



ADDENDA. 


417 




I 






/ 

. 


Boston. —-Tourists will be interested in visiting tlie New Boston which has 
^ t , he , ru , ms ? f Great Fire ( see P a ge S). Many of the buildings pos- 

ai-Ghlt ectural merit, and the diversity of the materials and styles of con- 
stiuction gives a pleasing character to the new commercial quarter. The publish- 
m a -house of James R. Osgood & Co. has been moved from No 124 Tremont St 
to more spacious quarters at the corner of Federal and Franklin Sts in one of 
o!L?-S heSt V U lgS of A h ® reconstructed district. Mount Auburn Cemetery 
(pa.,e o3) now derives an added interest from being the burial-place of Professor 
Agassiz and Senator Sumner. During the past year Boston has extended her 
borders by the annexation of Brighton, Charlestown, Jamaica Plain, W Roxburv 
etc., and the population of the city is now more than 300,000. Base Ball — Inter’ 
esting games will be played this summer and fall by the Boston Club the cham¬ 
pions of the United States The ball-ground is at the foot of Milford Place 
(square F. 3, map of Boston), which is reached by the Tremont St. horse-cars. 

^n a f s * (V&geN)-—The Highland Park House is situated near the 
crest of the Chelsea Highlands (Powder-Horn Hill), and commands broad views 
over the N. suburbs of Boston and the ocean. 

I ^'^ ie Mts. Some changes have taken place in the usual routes 

through this district on account of the advance of the railroads. The terminus 
of the Portland & Ogdensburgh R. R„ for the summer of 1874, will be at Bemis* 
(near the Mt. Crawford House), 20 M. beyond N. Conway, and 8 M. from the 
Crawford House. Stages from Bemis’ to the Crawford House, $ 2 ; to the Fa- 
byan House, $ 2.50 ; from the Crawford to the Fabyan, $1. The stages for the 
Glen House and Gorham will continue to leave N. Conway as usual (instead of 
stopping at Glen Road). Passengers from Boston on the morning train by the 
eastern R. R. arrive at N. Conway in time to dine, and have 1-1£ hrs. before the 
arrival of the P. & O. train from Portland and its departure for Bemis’. The Bos- 
ton, Concord & Montreal R. R. has advanced its track to the Fabyan House and 
will deliver passengers there throughout the summer, running through trains 
from Boston (Route 30 ; page 209). Mt. Washington (page 235). — The bridle¬ 
path from the Crawford House to the summit has been discontinued, having be¬ 
come perilous and nearly impassable. Guides will not be furnished for this route. 
Jefferson (page 229). — The Plaisted House is a new hotel for 100 guests, recent¬ 
ly opened on the slope of Mt. Starr King. The Starr King Mt. House has also 
been erected here ; and is on the far-viewing slope near the Waumbek House. 
Wolf boro’ (page 218). —The new Glendon House will open early in June (its 
second summer). 


Newbury, Vt. — The hotel at Montebello Springs will be open in June, afford¬ 
ing bathing facilities at the mineral waters. Chester, Vt. (page 181).— Cole’s 
Central Hotel is pleasantly situated on the elm-lined village street, 1 M. from the 
railroad. Montreal. — A new route has been opened from Boston to Montreal, 
by way of Concord, Wells River Junction, the Passumpsic R. R. and the South¬ 
eastern Railway (of Canada). It is anticipated that through Pullman cars will 
traverse this route by June 1, —leaving Boston at 9 a. m. and stopping for dinner 
at Plymouth (Pemigewasset House). Great Barrington, Mass, (page 152). 
— The Collins House is a favorite summer hotel at this point. Northampton, 
Mass, (page 159). — The Round Hill Hotel has given up the water-cure system, 
and is now conducted as a first-class summer resort. The Warner House exists 
no more, having been replaced by Fitch’s Hotel. 

The Sea-shore. — Newport. — The Atlantic House will be closed during the 
present summer. The “ Stone Mill” at Truro Park is the subject of an interest¬ 
ing article in the new antiquarian work, Decouverte de VAmerique par les Nor- 
mands au Xi'eme Siecle (Rouen et Paris, 1874). The author demonstrates, with 
much ingenuity, that the,“mill” was built in the 11th century for the baptistery 
of the Norman diocese which embraced this region. Highland Bight. — A 
new summer hotel is established at this point. Martha’s Vineyard. — The 
Cleveland House at W. Tisbury will enter upon its third season in June. Boating, 
fishing, etc. Provincetown. — The extension of the Cape Cod Division of the 
Old Colony R. R. has reached this village. Trains run from Boston to Province- 
town (120 M.) in 5-6 hrs.; fare, $3. Kittery, Me. (page 265). —The Pepperell 
Hotel is a quiet and well-situated summer resort in this ancient village, 9 M. from 
the Isles of Shoals, 5 M. from York, and 3j M. from Portsmouth (stages at the 
R. R. station). There are fine views of the harbor and the ocean from this point, 
and there are good facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and riding. 

18* AA 









418 


ADDENDA. 


Cape Arundel, Me. —The Ocean Bluff Hotel is a new house kept by Job 
Jenness & Co., and is reached by stage from Kennebunkport. Lubec, 31 e. 
(Lubec Hotel; Cobscook House), is now connected with Eastport (see page 322) by a 
steam-ferry (3 M.). It is picturesquely situated on a peninsula of Passammo- 
quoddy Bay, and fronts toward Campo Bello Island. The village has 9 churches, 
and several summer boarding-houses. Fort Point, Stockton, Me. (page 
317).—The Wassaviamkeag Hotel is finely situated on this bold promontory of 
Penobscot Bay, near the ruins of Fort Pownall and the seal-abounding Odom’s 
Ledge. It has 125 rooms and a frontage of 150 ft., overlooking Castine, the Cam¬ 
den Hills, and the many islands of Penobscot Bay. 

New York City. — The new Windsor Hotel, probably the finest hotel in the 
United States, is now in operation (5th Ave., between 46th and 47th Sts.). The 
Worth House has been discontinued. Two prominent new attractions for stran¬ 
gers in New York are the Colosseum (entrance, $1; corner of Broadway and 35th 
St.), with its immense panoramic views of Paris and London; and the Hippo¬ 
drome, Barnum’s great circus, etc., etc., occupying the square between 4th and 
Madison Aves. and 26th and 27th Sts. (and accommodating 20,000 persons). The 
Metropolitan Museum of Art (128 W. 14th St., near Union Square) has a large pic¬ 
ture-gallery (German and Flemish’ masters), also collections of articles of vertu, 
statuary, old MSS., and the Cessnola collection of Cypriote antiquities. For a 
far more thorough description of New York City, the Hudson River, Lake George, 
Lake Champlain, and Montreal, the tourist is referred to the companion to this 
handbook, “ The Middle States : a Handbook for Travellers,” now in press, and 
to be published about the 1st of June, 1874, by James R. Osgood & Co., Boston. 

The Editor acknowledges his obligations to those gentlemen who have 
informed him of the changes of the past year, and have given such val¬ 
uable suggestions with regard to the present edition. The New England 
Handbook will be revised thoroughly for the summer of 1875; and tour¬ 
ists and residents who find errors or omissions in the present edition 
will confer a favor by forwarding corrections to 

M. F. SWEETSER, 

Editor of Osgood’s American Handbooks, 
131 Franklin St., Boston. 


INDEX 


Abington, Mass. 51. 
Acton, Mass. 126. 

Adams, Mt. 236. 

Addison, Vt. 1S4. 
Adirondack^, Routes to 
the 357, 364, 365, 367. 
Agamenticus, Mt 267. 
Albany Basins, Me. 28S. 
Albany, N. Y. 348, 142. 

A1 burgh Springs, Vt. 207. 
Alfred, Me. 213. 

Alton Bay, N. H. 218, 2S2. 
Amherst, Mass. 100, 162. 
Amherst, N. H. 192. 
Ammonoosuc Falls 233. 
Andover, Mass. 276. 
Annandale, N. Y. 347. 
Annisquam, Mass. 247. 
Anson, Me. 294. 

Ansonia, Conn. 111. 
Anthony’s Nose 344, 360. 
Arlington, Vt. 185. 
Arrowsic, Me. 297. 
Arthabaska, Can. 290. 
Arthur’s Seat, Mass. 178. 
Artists’ Falls, N. H. 225. 
Artists’ Ledge, N. H. 225. 
Ascutney, Mt. 166. 
Ashburnham, Mass. 177. 
Ashford, Conn. US. 
Ashland, N. H. 210. 

Ashley Falls, Mass. 115. 
Assowamsett Pond 54. 
Athens, N. Y. 348. 
Attleborough, Mass. 62. 
Auburn, Me. 308. 

Augusta, Me. 311. 

Au Sable Chasm 367. 

Avon, Conn. 109. 

Ayer June., Mass. 176. 
Aylmer Lake, Can. 290. 

Bald Head Cliff, Me. 267. 
Bald Mt., N. H. 239. 
Baldwin, Me. 285. 

Ballard vale, Mass. 276. 
Ballston Spa, N. Y. 350. 
Bangor, Me. 315, 318. 
Bantam. Lake, Conn. 112. 


Bar Harbor, Me. 303, 304. 
Barnet, Vt. 169. 

Barton, Vt. 171. 

Bash Bish Falls 122, 153. 
Basin, the 240. 

Bath, Me. 297. 

Bath, N. H. 211. 

Bay, Belfast 317. 

Boston 20. 

Burlington 365. 
Buzzard’s 58, 92. 

Casco 274. 

Frenchman’s 304, 

Fundy 321. 

Ha Ha 386. 

Missisquoi 207. 
Narragansett 65. 
Narraguagus 307. 

New York 48, 329. 
Passamaquoddy 322. 
Penobscot 302, 316- 
St. Albans 205. 

Bay View, Mass. 247. 
Bearcamp, N. H. 220. 
Becket, Mass. 143. 
Beecher’s Falls, N, H. 232. 
Beech Mt., Me. 306. 
Belehertown, Mass. 100. 
Belfast. Me. 317. 

Belgrade, Me. 309. 

Bellows Falls, Vt. 164, 181. 
Beloeil Mt., Can. 208. 
Bennington, Vt. 186. 
Berkshire Hills 142. 
Berkshire Soda Sowings, 
Mass. 152. 

Berlin, Conn. 140. 

Berlin Falls, N. H. 229. 
Bernardston, Mass. 164. 
Berry Pond, Mass. 145. 
Bethel, Me. 288. 

Bethel, Vt. 200. 

Bethlehem, N. IT. 234. 
Beverly, Mass. 245, 256. 
Biddefiord, Me. 269, 283. 
Billerica, Mass. 1S9. 
Billing-ton Sea 53. 
Birmingham, Conn. 111. 
Black River Falls 165, 181. 


Black Rock, Conn. 85. r 
Blackstone, Mass. 93. 
Blackwell’s Id., N. Y. 47. 
Block Id., R. I. 71. 

Bloody Brook, Mass. 162. 
Blue Hill, Mass. 62. 

Blue Hill, Me. 303. 

Boar’s Head, N. H. 262. 
Bolton Falls, Vt. 204. 
Bolton Notch, Conn. 94. 
Bolton, N. Y. 359. 

Boone Id., Me. 267. 
Boothbay, Me. 299. 
Boscawen, N. H. 197. 
Boston, Mass. 5. 
Athenaeum 17 
Cathedral 20. 

Christ Church 10. 

City Hall 11. 

Common 15. 

Copp’s Hill 9. 

Custom House 10. 
Faneuil Hall 10. 

First Church 16. 
Horticultural Hall 13. 
Hospital 19. i 

King’s Chapel 13. 
Masonic Temple 12. 
Museum 15. 

Music Hall 13. 

Natural History Build¬ 
ing 16. 

New Post-Office 12. 

Odd Fellows Ilall 19. 

Old South Church 11. 
Old State House 10. 
Public Gardens 16. J 
Public Library 12. 

State House 17. 

U. S. Court House 13. 
Boston Light 23. 

Boterberg, N. Y. 345. 
Bowerbank, Me. 295. 
Bowdoin College 310. 
Boxford, Mass. 276. 
Bradford, Mass. 280. 
Bradford, N. H. 196. 
Braintree, Mass. 38. 
Braintree, Vt. 200. 












420 


INDEX. 


Brandon, Yt. 182. 

Branford, Conn. 76. 
Brattleboro’, Vt. 103. 
Breakneck Hill 345. 
Brewster, Mass. 56. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85, 111. 
Bridgewater, Mass. 54. 
Bridgton, Me. 285. 
Bridport, Vt. 184. 

Brighton, Mass. 35, 124. 
Brimfield, Mass. 130. 
Bristol, Me. 299. 

Bristol, N. H. 198. 

Bristol, R. I. 66. 

Bristol, Vt. 184. 

Brookfield, Conn. 114. 
Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Brookline, Mass. 35. 
Brooklyn, Conn. 118. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 48, 339. 
City Hall, 339. 

Cypress Hills 340. 
Greenwood 340. 

Navy Yard 339. 

Prospect Park 339. 
Brownfield, Me. 285. 
Brown University 64. 
Brunswick, Me. 297, 309. 
Bryant’s Pond, Me. 288. 
Buckland, Mass. 179. 
Bucksport, Me. 318. 
Bunker Hill, 25. 
Burlington, Vt. 184, 365. 
Burnham, Me. 314. 
Burnside, Conn. 94. 
Buttermilk Falls, N.Y. 344. 
Buxton, Me. 213. 

Buzzards Bay 58, 92. 

Cacouna, Can. 385. 

Calais, Me. 322. 

Caldwell, N. Y. 357. 
Cambridge, Mass. 29. 
Camden, Me. 317. 

Camel’s Hump Mt., Vt. 203. 
Camel’s Rump Mt.,Me.289. 
Campo Bello Id., N. B.322. 
Campton, N. H. 242. 
Canaan, Conn. 115. 

Canaan, N. H. 198. 

Canton, Mass. 62. 

Canton, Me. 287. 

Cap Rouge, Can. 383. 

Cap Tourmente, Can. 385. 
Cape Ann, 245. 

Cod 54. 

Elizabeth, Me. 273. 
Eternity, Can. 386. 
Neddick, Me. 267. 
Porpoise, Me. 268. 
Rosier, Me. 303. 

Trinity, Can. 386. 
Carolina, R. I. 70. 


Casco Bay 274. 

Castine, Me. 302, 317. 
Castle Id., Mass. 22. 
Castleton, Vt. 187. 
Cathedral Rock 224. 
Catskill Mts., N. Y. 347. 
Cave, Arlington 185. 
Clarendon 182. 

Doi’set 185. 

Salisbury 123. 

Cedarmere, L. I. 340. 
Centre Harbor, N. H. 216. 
Chabonakongkomon Lake 
104. 

Chambly, Can. 208. 
Champlain, Lake 361. 
Charlemont, Mass. 179. 
Charlesbourg, Can. 384. 
Charles Id., Conn. 84. 
Chai'lestown, Mass. 24. 
Charlestown, N. H. 165. 
Chateau Bigot, Can. 384. 
Chateau Richer, Can. 385. 
Chatham, N. Y. 142. 
Chaudiere Falls 383. 
Chelsea, Mass. 27, 249. 
Cheshire, Conn. 109. 
Cheshire, Mass. 153. 
Chester, Vt. 181. 
Chesterfield, N. H. 103,180. 
Chestnut Hill, Mass. 35. 
Chesuncook Lake, 296. 
Chicopee, Mass. 157. 
Chicoutimi, Can. 386. 
China, Me. 313. 

Chocorua, Mt. 214, 215, 221. 
Claremont, N. H. 197. 
Clarendon Springs 182, 187. 
Clear Stream Meadows 244. 
Clermont, N. Y. 347. 
Clinton, Mass. 105, 126. 
Clinton, Mt. 235. 

Cohasset, Mass. 48. 

Cohoes, N. Y. 350. 
Colchester, Vt. 204. 

Cold Spring, N. Y. 345. 
Colebrook, N. H. 243, 289. 
Coleraine Gorge 178. 
Collinsville, Conn. 109. 
Columbia Springs 348. 
Concord, Mass. 28. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 

Coney Id., N. Y. 340. 
Connecticut Lake 245. 
Contoocook Lake 180. 
Conway, N. H. 214. 
Conway June., Me. 26S. 
Copple Crown Mt. 218. 
Cornwall, Conn. 115. 

Cotuit Port, Mass. 55. 
Cranston, R. I. 65. 
Crawford House 230, 235. 
Croton River, N. Y. 343. 


Crown Point, N. Y. 183, 
‘ 364. 

Croydon, N. H. 197. 
Crystal Cascade, N. H. 227. 
Crystal Lake, Vt. 171. 
Cummington, Mass. 110. 
Cushing’s Id., Me. 274. 
Cuttyhunk Id., Mass. 92. 

Dalton, Mass. 144. 

Dalton, N. H. 212. 
Damariscotta, Me. 299. 
i Danbury, Conn. 116. 
Danielsonville, Conn. 118. 
Danville, Can. 290. 
Danville June., Me. 287. 
Dartmouth College 166. 
Dartmouth, Mass. 92. 
Daysville, Conn. 118. 
Debec, N. B. 323. 

Dedham, Mass. 117. 
Deerfield Gorge 178. 
Deerfield, Mass. 163. 

Deer Id., Mass. 20. 

Deer Isle, Me. 303. 
Denmark, Me. 285. 

Derby, Conn. 111. 

Derry, N. H. 279. 

Devil’s Dance Chamber 340. 
Dexter, Me. 295. 

Diamond Id., Me. 274. 
Diamond Id., N. H. 217. 
Diamond Id., N. Y. 35S. 
Dighton, Mass. 39. 

Dix Id., Me. 301, 332. 
Dixville Notch, N. H. 243. 
Dobbs’ Ferry, N. Y. 342. 
Dome Id., N. Y. 359. 
Dorchester, Mass. 36. 
Double Beach, Conn. 77. 
Dover, Me. 295. 

Dover, N. H. 281. 

Duck Id., N. H. 266. 
Dunderberg, N. Y. 343. 
Dunmore Lake, Vt. 183. 
Durham, N. H. 281. 
Duxbury, Mass. 50. 

Eagle Cliff, N. H. 239. 
Eagle Lake, Me. 305. 

E. Andover, N. H. 198. 

E. Hartford, Conn. 94. 

E. Haven, Conn. 77. 

E. Rock, Conn. 83. 

Eastern Townships, Can. 
174. 

Eastlxam, Mass. 56. 
Easthampton, Mass. 110. 
Eastport, Me. 322. 

Echo Lakes, 225, 238, 
Edgartown, Mass. 60. 
Egremont, Mass. 153. 
Elgin Spring, Vt. 184. 





INDEX. 


421 


Elliot, Me. 268. 

Ellsworth. Me. 318. 
Enfield, Conn. 133. 

Enfield, N. H. 198. 
Englewood, N. J. 341. 
Errol, N. H. 244, 289. 
Essex Junc.,Vt. 204. 
Essex, Mass. 257. 

Essex, N. Y. 365. 

Everett, Mass. 249. 

Exeter, N. H. 2S0. 

Fabyan House, N. H. 233, 
234. 

Fairfax, Vt. 204. 

Fairfield, Conn. 86. 
Fairhaven, Conn. 83. 
Fairhaven, Mass. 91. 
Fairhaven, Vt. 188. 

Fairlee, Vt. 168. 

Fall River, Mass. 39. 

Falls, Artists’ 225. 

Falls Village, Conn. 115. 
Bash Bish 122, 153. 
Berlin 229. 

Black River 165, 181. 
Bolton 204. 

Chaudiere 383. 

15 Mile 169. 

Foxwell’s 283. 
Georgeanna 241. 

Gibbs’s 232. 

Glen Ellis 227. 

Glens 356. 

Goodrich 225. 

Grand 323, 385. 

Grand Mer~ 374. 
Housatonio 115. 

Jackson 226. 

Livermore 210. 

Lower Am monoosuc 233. 
Montmorenci 384. 
Norton’s 122. 

Rumford 288. 

Saco 269. 

Screw Auger 289. 
Shawanegan 374. 

Ste. Anne 384. 

St. Fereol 385. 
Sutherland 182. 
Thompson’s 226. 

Turner’s 178. 

Yantic 96. 

Falmouth, Mass. 58. 
Farmington, Conn. 109. 
Farmington, Me. 291. 
Farmington, N. H. 282. 
Ferrisburgh, Vt. 184. 
Fisher’s Id., N. Y. 73. 
Fisherville, N. H. 197. 
Fishkill-on-the-Hudson 345 
Fitchburg, Mass. 176. 
Fitzwilliam, N. H. 180. 


Florence, Mass. 110, 160. 
Flume, the, N. H. 240. 
Flume, the, Vt. 171. 
Flushing, L. I. 47, 340. 
Forest Hills, 35. 

Fort Ann, N. Y. 356. 
Clinton, N. Y. 344. 
Edward, N. Y. 355. 
Fairfield, Me. 323. 
Halifax, Me. 314, 

Hill, Conn. 72. 

Kent, Me. 324. 

Lee, N. Y. 341. 
Massachusetts 156. 
Montgomery (new) 207. 
Montgomery (old) 344. 
Point, Me. 317. 

Preble, Me. 274. 
Ticonderoga 183, 362. 
Warren, Mass. 23. 
Washington, N. Y. 341. 
William Henry 356. 
Wooster, Conn. 83. 
14-Mile Id., N. Y. 359. 
Foxcroft, Me. 295. 
Framingham, Mass. 126. 
Francestown, N. H. 192. 
Franconia Mts. 238. 
Franklin, Mass. 117. 
Franklin, Mt. 236. 
Franklin, N. H. 197. 
Fredericton, N. B. 319. 
Freepoi't, Me. 309. 

Fresh Pond, Mass. 34. 
Frybburg, Me. 285. 

Gage town, N. B. 320. 
Gardiner, Me. 311. • 
Gardner, Mass. 177. 

Garnet Pools, N. H. 227. 
Gaspee Point, R. I. 65. 

Gay Head, Mass. 60. 
Georgeanna Falls, 241. 
George, Lake 357. 
Georgetown, Mass. 276. 
Georgetown, Me. 297. 
Georgeville, Can. 173. 
Georgia, Vt. 204. 

Giant’s Grave, N. H. 233. 
Gibbs’ Falls, N. H. 232. 
Gilead, Me. 228, 289. 
Glenburn, "Me. 316. 

Glen Ellis Falls, N. H. 227. 
Glen House, N. H. 226, 235. 
Glens Falls, N. Y. 356. 
Gloucester, Mass. 245. 
Goodrich Falls, N. H. 225. 
Gorham, Me. 213. 

Gorham, N. H. 227, 289. 
Governor’s Id., Mass. 20. 
Governor’s Id.,N.Y. 329, 48. 
Grafton, Mass. 126. 
Grafton, N. H. 198. 


Granby, Conn. 109. 

Grand Falls, N. B. 323, 385. 
Grand Menan Id. 322. 
Grand Schoodic Lake 319. 
Granville, Vt. 200. 

Great Barrington 152. 
Great Falls, N. H. 213. 
Great Gulf, N. H. 235. 
Great Head, Me. 304. 
Greenfield Hill, Conn. 86. 
Greenfield, Mass. 177. 
Greenland, N. H. 263. 
Green Mt., Me. 305. 

Green Mts., Vt. 182, 199. 
Greenville, Me. 296. 
Greenwich, Conn. 89. 
Greenwich, R. I. 67. 
Greylock, Mass. 153. 
Groton, Conn. 72, 73. 
Groton, Mass. 105. 

Groton, Vt. 169. 

Grout’s Corner, Mass. 177. 
Grove Hall, Mass. 36. 
Guilford, Conn. 76. 

Haddam, Conn. 106. 
Hadley, Mass. 161. 

Hague, N. Y. 360. 

Ha Ha Bay, Can. 3S6. 
Haley’s Id., Me. 266. 
Hallowell, Me. 311. 
Hamden, Conn. 108. 
Hamilton, Mass. 257. 
Hampden, Me. 318. 
Hampton, N. H. 262. 
Beach 262. 

Falls 261. 

Hanover, N. H. 166. 
Harpswell, Me. 275. 
Harrison, Me. 285. 
Hartford, Conn. 134. 
Athenaeum 137. 

Cedar Grove 139. 
Churches 135. 

Old State House 136. 
State House 135. 
Harvard, Mass. 105. 
Harvard University 29. 
Harwich, Mass. 56. 
Hastings-on-Hudson 342. 
Hatfield, Mass. 162. 
Haverhill, Mass. 279. 
Haverhill, N. H. 211. 
Haverstraw, N. Y. 343. 
Hazardville, Conn, 133. 
Hebron, N. H. 198. 

Hell Gate, N. Y. 47. 
Higligate Springs, Vt. 207. 
Highland Light 57. 
Highlands, the 343. 
Hillsboro Bridge 196. 
Hingham, Mass. 24. 
Hinsdale, Mass. 143. 







422 


Hinsdale, N. H. 102, 
Hiram, Me. 285. 

Hoboken, N. J. 341. 
Holbrook, Mass. 54. 
Holderness, N. H. 210. 
Hollis, N. H. 106. 

Holmes’ Hole, Mass. 59, 60, 
Holyoke, Mass. 158. 
ITookset, N. H. 194. 
Hoosac Tunnel 154, 179. 
Hopper, the 157. 

Hough’s Neck, Mass. 37. 
Houlton, Me. 323. 
Hubbarclton, Vt. 187. 
Hudson, N. Y. 348. 

Hull, Mass. 23. 

Hyamiis, Mass. 56. 

Hyde Park, N. Y. 346. 

Indian Harbor, Conn. 89. 

Lorette, Can. 384. 
j- Neck, Conn. 77. 

Rock, Me. 292. 

Ingleside, Mass. 158. 

Iona Id., N. Y. 344. 
Ipswich, Mass. 257. 
Irasburgh, Vt. 171. 
Irvington, N. Y. 342. 
Island Pond, Vt. 290. 
Island, Blackwell’s 47. 
Block 71. 

Boone 267, 

Brigadier 317. 

Campo Bello 322. 

I Castle 22. 

Charles, Conn. 84. 
Conauicut 46. 

Coney 340. 

Constitution 345. 
Continental 265. 

Crane 385. 

Cruger’s 347. 

Cushing’s 274. 
Cuttyhunk 92. 

Deer 20. 

Diamond, Me. 274. 
Diamond, N. H. 217. 
Diamond, N. Y. 358. 
Dome, N. Y. 359. 
Duston’s 197. 

Fisher’s 73. 

Goat 46. 

Goose 385. 

Grand Menan 322. 
Governor’s, Mass. 20. 
Governor’s, N. H. 215. 
Governor’s, N. Y. 329. 
Grosse 385. 

Iona 344. 

! Long, Mass. 23. 

Long, N. H. 217. 

Long, N. Y. 339. 

Lowell 256. 


INDEX. 


Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Monhegan 316. 

Mount Desert 303. 
Mystic 72. 

Nantucket 60. 

Naushon 92. 

Neutral 322. 

No Man’s Land 59. 
Orr’s 297. 

Peak’s, Me. 274. 
Penequeese 92. 

Plum, Mass. 260. 
Prudence 66. 
Rainsford’s 23. 

Recluse 359. 

Rhode 46. 

Richmond 270. 

Stage 268. 

Staten 340. 

Thacher’s 247. 
Thompson’s 22. 
Valcour, Vt. 367. 
Vinalhaven 316. 

Ward’s 339. 

Wetmore 317. 

Elizabeth 92. 

St. George’s 301. 
Thimble 76. 

Isle aux Coudres 385. 
Deer, Me. 303. 

Grand, Vt. 367. 
of Orleans 385. 

St. Helens’ 370. 

Isles of Shoals 265. 

Ivy Mt., Conn. 115 

Jackson, N. H. 225. 
Jaffrey, N. H. 179. 
Jamaica, L. I. 340. 
Jamaica Plain, Mass. 35. 
Jay, Me. 291. 

Jefferson Hill, N. H. 229. 
Jefferson, Mt. 236. 
Jonesport, Me. 307. 
Jordan’s Pond, Me. 304. 

Katahdin, Mt., Me. 297. 
Kearsarge, Mt. 198. 
Keene, N. H. 180. 
Kennebunlt, Me. 268. 
Kennebunkport 268. 
Kent, Conn. 114. 
Kiarsarge, Mt. 224. 
Killingly, Conn. 118. 
Killington Peak, Vt. 182. 
Killing-worth, Conn. 76. 
Kinderhook, N. Y. 348. 
Kineo Mt., Me. 296. 
Kingfield, Me. 292. 
Kingston, N. Y. 347. 
Kingston, R. I. 67. 
Ivittery, Me. 265. 
Knowltou’s Landing 173. 


Lachine Rapids 372. 
Laconia, N. H. 209. 
Lafayette, Mt. 239. 

Lake Ashley, Mass. 145. 
Aylmer, Can. 290 
Beauport, Can. 384. 
Bomaseen, Vt. 187. 
Chabonakongkomon 104. 
Champlain 361. 
Cliesuncook, Me. 296. 
China, Me. 313. 
Contoocook, N. H. 180. 
Crystal, Vt. 171. 
Dunmore, Vt. 183. 

Echo'(Conway) 225. 

Echo (Franconia) 238. 
Enfield, N. H. 198. 
George, N. Y. 357. 

Grand Schoodic 319. 
Heart, N. IT. 198. 

Long, Conn. 113. 

Long, Me. 285. 

Luzerne, N. Y. 355. 
Mahkeenac, Mass. 150. 
Massabesic, N. H. 193. 
Massawippi, Can. 174. 
Memphremagpg 171. 
Merrymeeting 219. 
Moosehead 294, 295 
Newfound, N. H. 198. 
of Seven Isles 323. 

Onota, Mass. 145. 
Ossipee, N. H. 220. 
Pontoosuc, Mass. 145, 
Profile, N. H. 239. 
Quinsigamond 126. 
Rockland, N. Y. 343. 
Saltonstall, Conn. 77. 

St. Catharine, Vt. 188. 
St. Charles, Can. 3S4. 

St. Joaehin, Can. 385. 

St. John, Can. 386. 

St. Peter 374. 

Sebago, Me. 284. 
Sinnipink, N. Y. 344. 
Spectacle (Ponds) 114. 
Squam, N. H. 216, - 217. 
Sunapee, N. H. 196. 
Twin, Conn. 123. 
Umbagog 244, 289. 
Village, N. H. 209. 
Waukawan 209. 

Wenham 256. 
Willoughby, Vt. 170. 
Winnepesaukee 215, 82. 
Lakeville, Conn. 122. 
Lakeville, Mass. 54. 
Lancaster, Mass. 105. 
Lancaster, N. H. 212. 
Lanesboro, Mass. 153. 
Lanesville, Mass. 247. 
Lawrence, Mass. 278. 

Lead Mine Bridge 228. 






INDEX, 


423 


Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
Lebanon, N. H. 199. 
Ledges, the N. H. 224. 
Leeds, Me. 291. 

Lee, Mass. 148. 

Leeds, Mass. 110. 
Lennoxville, Can. 174, 290. 
Lenox, Mass. 147. 

Leverett, Mass. 102. 
Lewiston, Me. 308. 
Lexington, Mass. 28. 
Leyden Gorge 178. 

Lincoln, Mass. 175. 

Lisbon Falls, Me. 291. 
Litchfield, Conn. 112. 
Littleton, N. H. 211. 
Livermore Falls, N. H. 210. 
Livermore, Me. 291. 
Londonderry, N. H. 279. 
Long Branch, N. J. 340. 
Long Id., Can. 173. 

Long Id., Mass. 23. 

Long Id., N. H. 217. 

Long Id., N. Y. 339. 

Long Lake, Conn. 113. 
Long Lake, Me. 285. 
Longmeadow, Mass. 133. 
Longueuil, Can. 373. 
Lonsdale, R. I. 93. 

: Lovell, Me. 287. 

Lowell Id , Mass. 256. 
j Lowell, Mass. 189. 

Ludlow, Vt. 181. 
Lunenburg, Vt. 212. 

Lyme, Conn. 75. 

Lyme, N. H. 167. 
Lyndeborough, N. H. 192. 
Lyndon, Vt. 170. 

Lynn, Mass. 250. 

Machias, Me. 307. 
Madawaska, Me. 324. 
Madison, Mt. 236. 

Madrid, Me. 292. 
Magalloway River 244, 289. 
Magnolia, Mass. 247. 
Magog, Can. 173. 

Maine Forest, the 323. 
j Malbaie, Can. 385. 

Malden, Mass. 275. 

Mallet’s Bay, Vt. 204. 
Mamaroneek, N. Y. 90. 
Manchester, Conn. 94. 
Manchester, Mass. 245. 
Manchester, N. H. 193. 

I Manchester, Vt. 185. 

Manhattan ville, N. Y. 341. 
j Mansfield, Conn. 99. 

Mansfield, Mt., Vt. 203. 
j Marblehead, Mass. 255. 
Marblehead Neck, 256. 
Marion, Mass. 54. 

Marlboro, Mass. 126. 


Marshfield, Mass. 49. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Mashapaug Lake 118. 
Mattapoisett, Mass. 54. 
Mattawamkeag, Me. 319. 
McAdam June., N. B. 319. 
Mclndoes Falls, Vt. 169. 
Mechanic Falls, Me. 287. 
Medfield, Mass. 120. 
Medford. Mass. 275. 
Megunticook Mts. 317. 
Melrose, Mass. 275. 
Meredith, N. H. 209. 
Meriden, Conn. 140. 
Merrymeeting Lake 219. 
Methuen, Mass, 279. 
Middleboro, Mass. 54. 
Middlebury, Vt. 183. 
Middlesex, Mass. 191. 
Middlesex, Vt. 202. 
Middletown, Conn. 106. 
Middletown Springs, Vt. 
188 

Milan, N. H. 289. 

Milford, Conn. 84. 

Milford, Me. 319. 

Milford, N. H. 192. 
Millerton, N. Y. 121. 
Milton, N. H. 213. 

Milton, Vt. 204. 

Minot’s Ledge, Mass. 49. 
Missisquoi Springs 206. 
Mohegan, Conn. 98. 
Monadnock Mt., N. H. 179. 
Monadnock Mt., Vt. 243. 
Monhegan Id., Me. 316. 
Monkton, Vt. 184. 

Monroe Mt. 236. 

Monson, Me. 99. 

Monson, Mass. 295. 
Montague, Mass. 177. 
Montmorenci Falls 384. 
Montpelier, Vt. 200. 
Montreal, Can. 291, 368. 
Around the Mt. 372. 
Bonsecours Market 370. 
Champ de Mars 370. 
Christ Church Cathedral 
371. 

Gesu, Church of the 371. 
Gray Nunnery 372. 
Lachine Rapids 372. 
McGill College 371. 

Notre Dame 369. 

St. George 372. 

St. Patrick 371. 

Victoria Bridge 373. 
Victoria Square 369. 
Monument Mt., Mass. 151. 
Moose Chasm, Me. 289. 
Moosehead Lake 294, 296. 
Moosetocmaguntic 292. 


Moosilauke Mt.. N. H. 211. 
Moriah, Mt., N. H. 228. 
Morris, Conn. 113. 
Moultonboro, N. H. 219. 
Mount Adams, N. H. 236. 
iEolus, Vt. 186. 
Agamenticus, Me. 267. 
Annanance, Vt. 170. 
Anthony, Vt. 186. 
Ascutney, Vt. 166. 
Auburn Cemetery 33. 
Bald, N. H. 239. 
Belknap, N. H. 209, 219. 
Carmel, Conn. 108. 
Chocorua, N. H. 214, 221. 
Clinton, N. H. 235. 
Cro’-Nest, N. Y. 345. 
Desert, Me. 303. 
Dunderberg, N. Y. 343. 
Elephantis, Can. 173. 
Equinox, Vt. 185. 
Everett, Mass. 152. 
Franklin, N- H. 236. 
Greylock, Mass. 153. 
Hayes, N. H. 228. 
Holyoke, Mass. 160. 
Hopkins 157. 

Hope, R. I. 66. 

Hor, Vt. 170. 
Independence, Vt. 363. I 
Jefferson 236. 

Katahdin, Me. 297, 319. 
Kearsarge, N. H. 198. 
Kiarsarge, N. H. 224. 
Kilburn 165. 

Kineo 296. 

Lafayette, N. H. 239. 
Madison 236. 

Major, N. H. 218. 
Mansfield, Vt. 203. , 

Megunticook, Me. 317. 
Monadnock, N. H. 179. 
Monadnock, Vt. 243. 
Monroe 236. ] 

Monument, Mass. 151. 
Moosilauke, N. H. 211. 
Moriah, N. H. 228. 
Nonotuck, Mass. 160. 
Ossipee, N. H. 219, 220. 
Owl’s Head, Can. 172. 
Owl’s Head, N. H. 211. 
Passaconaway 220. 
Pinnacle, Can. 174. 
Pinnacle, N. H. 194. 
Pleasant, Me. 285. 
Pleasant, N. H. 236. 
Profile, N. H. 239. 
Prospect, Conn. 115. 
Prospect, N. H. 210. 
Pulaski, Vt. 168. 

Ragged, N. H. 198. 

Riga, Conn. 121. 
Rouillard, Can. 290. 












42-1 


INDEX, 


Ste. Anne, Can. 385. 

St. Vincent, N. Y. 341. 
Sugar Loaf, Mass. 162. 
Surprise, N. H. 228. 
Tabor, Vt. 185. 

Toby, Mass. 102. 

Tom, Conn. 113. 

Tom, Mass. 160. 

Tom, Vt. 199. 

Vernon, N. H. 192. 
Wantastiquet 103. 
Washington, Mass. 152. 
Washington, N. H. 234. 
Ascent from Craw¬ 
ford’s 235. 

Ascent from Gorham 
236. 

Carriage-road 235. . 
Railway 234. 

View 237. 

Whiteface, N. H. 220. 
Willard, N. H. 231. 
Mountains, Adirondack 365 
Allagash 323. 

Berkshire 142. 

Catskill 347. 

Dixville 243. 

Franconia 238. 

Green 182-186,199-204. 
Helderberg 348. 
Highlands 343, 344. 
Laurentian 378, 385. 
Lunenburg 212. 
Magalloway 245. 
Megunticook 317. 

Pilot 212. 

Sandwich 220. 
Shawangunk 346. 

White 221. 

Murray Bay, Can. 3S5. 
Myricks, Mass. 54. 

Mystic, Conn. 72. 

Mystic Pond 189. 

N ah ant, Mass. 21. 
Nantasket Beach 23. 
Nantucket 60. 

Naples, Me. 284. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Narragansett Fort 69. 
Narragansett Pier 68. 
Nashua, N. H. 191. 

Natick, Mass. 124. 

Natural Bridge 154. 
Naugatuck, Conn. 111. 
Naushon Id. 92. 

Newark, Vt. 171. 

New Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New Britain, Conn. 95. 
Newburg, N. Y. 345. 
Newbury, Vt. 168. 
Newburyport, Mass. 258. 
Newcastle, Me. 299. 


Newfound Lake 198. 

New Gloucester, Me. 287. 
New Hartford, Conn. 120. 
New Haven, Conn. 77, 141. 
Art Gallery 81. 

Cemetery 78. 

East Rock 83. 

Public Green 79. 

Savin Rock 83. 

State House 80. 

West Rock 83. 

Yale College 80. 

New Haven, Vt. 184. 

New Lebanon Springs 146. 
New London, Conn. 72. 
Newmarket, N. II. 267, 281. 
New Marlboro, Mass. 252. 
New Milford, Conn. 114. 
Newport, Me. 314 
Newport, R. I. 40, 66. 
Bellevue Ave. 44. 

First Beach 45. 

Fort Adams 46. 

Islands, the 46. 

Lawton’s Valley 44. 
Purgatory 45. 

Redwood Library 43. 
Round Tower 43. 

State House 42. 

Newport, Vt. 171. 

New Rochelle, N. Y. 90. 
Newton, Mass. 35,120,124. 
Newtown, Conn. 114. 

New York City 325. 

Astor Library 333. 
Battery 329. 

Bay, the 329. 

Bible House 333. 
Boulevard 338. 

Bowling Green 329. 
Broadway 330, 335. 
Cathedral 336. 

Central Park 336. 

Christ Church 335. 

City Hall 332. 

Cooper Institute 333. 
Court House 332. 

Custom House 331. 

Fifth Avenue 335.. 

Five Points 332. 

Grace Church 333. 

Grand Central Depot 336. 
High Bridge 338. 

Lenox Library 338. 
Madison Square 334. 
National Academy of 
Design 334. 

New Post-Office 332. 

New York Uuiversity 333 
Park Roav 331. 

Reservoir 335. 

St. George 334. 

St. Paul 331. 


Sub-Treasury 330. 
Temple Emanuel 336. 
Tombs, the 332. 

Trinity Church 330. 
Union Square 333. 

Wall Street 330. 

Ward’s Island 339. 

Y. M. C. Association 334. 
Niantic, Conn. 74. 

Nix’s Mate, Mass. 23. 
Norfolk, Conn. 120. 
Norman’s Woe 246. 
Noroton, Conn. 87. 
Norridgewock, Me. 293. 

N. Adams, Mass. 154. 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
Northboro, Mass. 126. 

N. Conway, N.H. 223, 287. 
Northfield, Mass. 102. 
Northfield, Vt. 200. 

N. Haven, Conn. 141. 

N. Stratford, N. H. 243. 
Northumberland, N. H. 

212, 243, 290. 

N. Yarmouth, Me. 287. 
Norton’s Falls, Conn. 122. 
Norwalk, Conn. 87. 
Norwich, Conn. 96, 119. 
Norwich, Vt. 166. 

Notch, Bolton, Conn. 94. 
Dixville, N. H. 243. 
Franconia, IS. H. 238. 
Grafton, Me. 289. 
Pinkham, N. II. 226. 
Sandgate, Vt. 186. 
Smuggler’s, Vt. 202. 
White Mt. 231. 
Wilmington, N. Y. 367. 

Oak Bluffs, Mass. 60. 

Old Deerfield, Mass. 163. 
Old Hadley, Mass. 161. 

Old Orchard Beach 2S3. 
Oldtown, Me. 318. 

Ore Hill, Conn. 121. 

Orford Mt., Can. 173. 
Orford, N. H. 168. 

Orient Springs, Mass. 102. 
Orono, Me. 318. 

Osceola, Mt. 242. 

Ossipee Mt., N.H. 219, 22Q. 
Ossipee, N. H. 214. 

Otta Quechee Valley, Vt 
199. 

Owl’s Head Mt., Can. 172. 
Oxford, Me. 288. 

Oxford, Mass. 104. 

Palenville, N. Y. 348. 
Palisades, the 341. 

Palmer, Mass. 130. 

Paris Hill, Me. 288. 
Parmaehene Lake 289. 




INDEX. 


425 


Pasque Id., Mass. 92. 
Passaconaway Mt. 220. 
Passumpsic, Vt. 169. 
Patten, Me. 319. 

Paulding Manor, N. Y. 342. 
Pawtucket, R. I. 62. 
Pawtuxet, R. I. 65. 
Peabody, Mass. 253. 
Bpacedale, R. I. 68. 

Peak’s Id., Me. 274. 
Peekskill, N. Y. 343. 
Pelham Fort, Mass. 179. 
Pemaquid, Me. 299. 
Pemigewasset Valley 210. 
Penequeese Id. 92. 
Pepperell, Mass. 105. 
Pequot House, Conn. 74. 
Perry’s Peak, Mass. 148. 
Peterboro, N. H. 180. 
Phillips, Me. 292. 
Phipsburg, Me, 297. 
Piermont, N. J. 342. 
Pigeon Cove, Mass. 247. 
Pittsburg, N. H. 245. 
Pittsfield, Mass. 144. 
Pittsford, N. H. 182. 
Placentia, *N. Y. 346. 
Plainfield, Conn. 94. 
Plainville, Conn. 109. 
Plattsburg, N. Y. 367. 
Pleasant, Mt. 236 
Plymouth, Conn. 112. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 
Burying Hill 53. 
Forefather’s Rock 52. 
Pilgrim Hall 52. 
Plymouth Forest 53. 
Plymouth, N. H. 210, 217, 
242. 

Pocasset, Mass. 58. 

Point Judith, R. I. 69. 
Point Levi, Can. 290, 383. 
Point Shirley, Mass. 20. 
Pomfret, Conn. 118. 
Pompanoosuc, Vt. 167. 
Pool, the N. H. 240. 

Port Chester, N. Y. 90. 
Port Henry, N. Y. 365. 
Port Kent, N. Y. 367. 
Portland, Me. 270, 283. 
City Hall 272. 

Custom House 272. 
Evergreen Cem. 273. 
Observatory 272. 
Post-Office 273. 

W. Promenade 271. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 263. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 346. 
Poultney, Vt. 187. 

Presque Isle, Me. 323. 
Princeton, Mass. 177- 
Proctorsville, Vt. 181. 
Profile House 238. 


Profile, the 239. 

Prospect Mt., Conn. 115. 
Prospect Mt., N. H. 210. 
Prout’s Neck, Me. 270. 
Providence, R. I. 63. 
Arcade 63. 

Athenaeum 64. 

Brown University 64. 
Monument 63. 

R. . Hospital 64. 
Provincetown, Mass. 57. 
Prudence Id., R. I. 66. 
Pulaski Mt., Vt. 168. 
Putnam, Conn. 117. 
Putney, Vt. 164. 

Quebec, Can. 290, 375. 
Cathedral 380. 

Citadel 379. 

Durham Terrace 378. 
English Cathedral 378. 
Golden Dog 382. 

Hotel Dieu 380. 

Jesuit Buildings 381. 
Laval University 381. 
Marine Hospital 382. 
Market Square 380. 

Mt. Hermon Cem. 383. 
Notre Dame des Victoires 
383. 

Parliament House 380. 
Place d’Armes 378. 
Plains of Abraham 383. 
Prescott Gate 380. 
Seminary 381. 

St. John’s Gate 379. 

St. Louis Gate 379. 
Ursuline Convent 381. 
Wolfe and . Montcalm 
Monument 379. 

Queen’s Fort, R. I. 69. 
Quincy, Mass. 37. 
Quinsigamond Lake 126. 
Quoddy Head, Me. 322. 

Rafe’s Chasm, Mass. 247. 
Ragged Mt., N. H. 198. 
Randolph Hill 228, 236. 
Randolph, Vt. 200. 
Rangeley Lakes 245, 292. 
Raynham, Mass. 38. 
Readfield, Me. 309. 
Reading, Conn. 116. 
Reading, Mass. 276. 
Readville, Mass. 62. 
Recluse Id., N. Y. 359. 

Red Hill, N. H. 216. 
Revere Beach, 27. 
Rhinebeck-on-Hudson 347. 
Rhode Island 40, 46. 
Richford, Vt. 207. 
Richmond, Can. 290. 
Richmond Id. 270. 


Richmond, Me. 311. 
Ridgefield, Conn. 116. 
Ridley’s Station, Vt. 203. 
Rindge, N. H. 179. 

Ripton, Vt. 184. 

River, Ammonoosuc 233, 
. 290. 

Androscoggin 289, 291, 
308, 310. 

Aroostook 323, 324. 
Chaudiere 313, 383. 
Connecticut 75, 106, 134, 
157, 169, 211, 243, 245. 
East 47, 339. 

Farmington 109, 143. 
Housatonic 115,148, 153. 
Hudson 340, 356. 
Kennebec 293, 311. 
Lamoille 203, 204. 
Merrimac 189, 193, 197, 
258, 278, 279. 
Missisquoi 206. 
Naugatuck 111. 
Passumpsic 169. 
Pemigewasset 210, 241. 
Penobscot 296, 316. 
Richelieu 207, 368, 373. 
Saco 223, 231, 269, 2S5. 
Saguenay 385. 

St. Croix 322. 

St. John 320, 323. 

St. Lawrence 369, 372, 
373, 384. 

St. Maurice 374. 

Thames 96. 

Winooski 203, 204. 
Riverdale, Mass. 246. 
Rivermouth Rocks, 262. 
Riviere du Loup 323, 385. 
Rochester, N. H. 213, 282. 
Rockland Lake, N. Y. 343. 
Rockland, Me. 301, 316. 
Rockport, Mass. 247. 
Rockville, Conn. 94. 

Rocky Hill, Conn. 140. 
Rocky Point, R. I. 65. 
Rogers’ Slide, N. Y. 360. 
Rondout, N. Y. 346. 
Roslyn, L. I. 340. 
Rougemont Mt. 208. 
Rouillard Mt. 290. 

Round Id., Can. 172. 
Rouse’s Point, N. Y. 207. 
Rowley, Mass. 258. 
Roxbury, Mass. 36. 
Roxbury, Vt. 200. 
Royalton, Vt. 200. 

Rumford Falls, Me. 288. 
Rumney, N. H. 211. 
Rutland, Vt. 181. 

Rye Beach, N. H. 263. 
Ryegate, Vt. 168. 

Rye, N. Y. 90. 




426 


INDEX. 


Sabbath Day Point 359. 
Saccarappa, Me. 213. 
Sachem’s Head, Conn. 76. 
Sachem’s Plain, Conn. 97. 
Saco, Me. 269. 

Saco Pool 269. 

Sage’s Ravine, Conn. 122. 
Saguenay River 385. 

St. Albans, Vt. 204. 

St. Andrew, N. B. 322. 

Ste. Anne, Can. 384. 

St. Charles, Lake 384. 

St. Fereol Falls 385. 

St. Francis, Me. 324, 

St. George, Me. 301. 

St. Hyacinthe, Can. 290. 
St. John River 320. 

St. Johnsbury, Vt. 169. 
St.John’s, Can. 20S. 

St. Johns, N. B. 320. 

St. Maurice River 374. 

St. Stephen, N. B. 323. 
Salem, Mass. 251. 

Court House 253. 
Custom House 253. 

East India Museum 252. 
Plummer Hall 252. 
Salem Neck 253. 
Salisbury Beach 260. 
Salisbury, Conn. 115, 121. 
Salisbury, Mass. 260. 
Salmon Falls, N. H. 283. 
Sandgate Notch, Vt. 186. 
Sandisfield, Mass. 152. 
Sand Spring, Mass. 156. 
Sandwich, Mass. 55. 
Sandwich, N. H. 219. 
Sankoty Head, 62. 
Saratoga Springs 350. 
Battle-field 355. 
Columbian Spring 352. 
Congress Spring 352. 
Crystal Spring 353. 
Excelsior Spring 354. 
Geyser Spring 354. 

Lake, the 354. 

Park, Congress 352. 
Pavilion Spring 353. 
Seltzer Spring 353. 

Star Spring 354. 
Saugerties, N. Y. 347. 
Savin Rock, Conn. 83. 
Savoy, Mass. 153. 

Sawyer’s Rock, N. H. 230. 
Saybrook, Conn. 75. 
Searboro Beach 270, 2S3. 
Schoodic Lakes, Me. 322. 
Schooner Head, Me. 304. 
Scituate, Mass. 49. 

Screw Auger Falls 289. 
Seabrook, N. H. 261. 
Searsport, Me. 317. 

Sebago Lake, Me. 284. 


Sebec Lake, Me. 295. 
Sesacacha Pond 62. 
Seymour, Conn. 111. 
Sharon, Mass. 62. 

Sharon, Vt. 199. 
Shawanegan Falls 374. 
Sheffield, Mass. 153. 
Sheffield, N. B. 320. 
Shelburne Falls, Mass. 179. 
Shelburne, N. H. 289. 
Sheldon Springs, Vt. 206. 
Sherbrooke, Can. 174. 
Shippan Point, Conn. 89. 
Shoals, Isles of 265. 
Shrewsbury, Mass. 126. 
Siasconset, Mass. 61. 

Silver Cascade, 232. 
Simsbury, Conn. 109. 

Sing Sing, N. Y. 343. 
Skinner Hollow, Vt. 185. 
Skinner’s Id., Can. 172. 
Skowhegan, Me. 293. 
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y. 342. 
Smugglers’ Notch, Vt. 202. 
Solon, Me. 294. 

Somerville, Mass. 249, 275. 
Somes’ Sound, Me. 306. 
Sorel, Can. 373. 

S. Adams, Mass. 153. 

S. Braintree, Mass. 38, 51. 
S. Cornwall, Conn. 115. 

S. Deerfield, Mass. 162. 

S. Egremont, Mass. 152. 

S. Framingham 125. 

S. Hadley, Mass. 158. 
Southington, Conn. 109. 

S. Kingstown, R. I. 69. 

S. Mountain, Mass. 145. 

S. Norwalk, Conn. 87. 

S. Paris, Me. 288. 
Southport, Conn. 86. 
Southport, Me. 299. 

S. Royalton, Vt. 200. 

S. Vernon, Vt. 102. 
Southwest Harbor.Me. 306. 
S. Windham, Me. 284. 

S. Windsor, Conn. 140. 
Sparkling Cascade 232. 
Spectacle Ponds 114. 
Spencer, Mass. 130. 

Spot Pond 1S9, 275. 
Springfield, Mass. 131, 157. 
City Library 132. 

Court House 132. 

U. S. Armory 131. 
Springfield, Vt. 165, 181. 
Springvale, Me. 213. 
Spuyten Duyvil Creek, N. 
Y. 341. 

Spy Pond, Mass. 34. 
Squam Lake 217, 220. 
Squantum Point 37. 
Stafford Springs 99. 


Stage Id., Me. 269. 
Stamford, Conn. 88. 
Standish, Me. 285. 
Stanstead, Can. 174. 

Star Id., N. H. 265. 

Starks, Me. 294. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 149. 
Stoneham, Mass. 275. 
Stonington, Conn. 71. , 

Stony Creek, Conn. 76. 
Stony Point, N. Y. 343. 
Stow, Vt. 202. 

Strafford, N. H. 282. 
Stratford, Conn. 84. 
Stratford, N. H. 290. 
Stratham, N. H. 267. 
Stratton Gap, Vt. 185. 
Strong, Me. 292. 

Sudbury, Mass. 125. 

Sugar Loaf Mt. 162. 
Summit, Vt. 181. 

Sunapee Lake, N. H. 196. 

S uncook, N. H. 194. 
Sunderland, Mass. 162. 
Surprise, Mt. 228. 
Sutherland Falls, Vt. 182. 
Swamp cott, Mass. 251. 
Swanton, Vt. 207. 

Swanzey, N. H. 102. 

Sylvan Glade Cataract 232 

Tadousac, Can. 385. 

Talcott Mt., Conn. 139. 
Tappan, N. J. 342. | 
Tappan Zee 342. 
Tarrytown, N. Y. 342. 
Taunton, Mass. 38. 
Templeton, Mass. 177. 
Tewksbury, Mass. 189. 
Tliacher’s Id., Mass. 247. 
The Forks, Me. 294. 
Thetford, Vt. 167. 

Thimble Is., Conn. 76. 
Thomaston, Me. 301. 
Thompson, Conn. 104, 117. 
Thompson’s Falls, N. H. 
226. 

Thompson’s Id. 22. 
Tliompsonville 133. 

Three Rivers, Can. 290, 374. 
Throgg’s Point, N. Y. 47. 
Ticonderoga, Fort 183, 362. 
Tilton, N. H. 209. 

Tivoli, N. Y. 347. 

Toby Mt. 102. 

Tolland, Conn. 99. 
Topsfield, Mass. 276. 

Troy, N. H. 180. 

Troy, N. Y. 350. 

Truro, Mass. 56. 
Tuckerman’s Ravine, N. 
H. 227, 237. 

Tufts College, Mass. 189. 




INDEX. 


427 


Turner’s Falls, Mass. 178. 
Twin Lakes, Conn. 123. 
Twin Mt. House 233. 

Umbagog Lake 244, 2S9. 
Undercliff, N. Y. 345. 
Upper Bartlett 230, 2S7. 
Upton, Me. 244, 289. 
Uxbridge, Mass. 93. 

Van Buren, Me. 324. 
Vanceboro, Me. 319. 
Varennes, Can. 373. 
Vassalboro, Me. 313. 
Vassal’ College 346. 
Vergennes, Vt. 184, 365. 
Vernon, Conn. 94. 
Vernon, Vt. 102. 
Verplanck’s Point 343. 
Vershire, Vt. 167. 
Vineyard Haven 60. 
Vineyard Sound 92. 

Vue de l’Eau, R. I. 65. 

Wacliusett, Mt. 177. 
Wakefield, Mass. 276. 
Waldoboro, Me. 300. 
Wallingford, Conn. 140. 
Wallingford, Vt. 184. 
Walpole, N. H. 180. 
Waltham, Mass. 175. 
Ward’s Id., N. Y. 47, 339. 
Ware, Mass. 99. 
Wareham, Mass. 54. 
Warehouse Point 133. 
Warren, Me. 300. 

Warren, Mass. 130. 
Warren, N. H. 211. 
Warren, R. I. 66. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 
Washington, Mass. 143. 
Washington, Mt. 234. 
Watch Hill Point 70. 
Waterbury, Conn. 95. 
Waterbury, Vt. 202. 
Waterford, Me. 285. 
Watertown, Conn. 112. 


Watertown, Mass. 34. 
Waterville, Conn. 112. 
Waterville, Me. 309, 314. 
Waterville, N. H. 242. 
Waukawan Lake 209. 
Waumbek House 212, 229. 
Wauregan, Conn. 119. 
Webster, Mass. 104. 
Weehawken, N. J. 341. 
Weir June., Mass. 90. 
Weirs, N. H. 209, 215. 
Weld, Me. 291. 

Wellesley, Mass. 124. 
Wellfleet, Mass. 56. 

Wells Beach 268, 283. 

Wells River, Vt. 168, 211. 
Wenham, Mass. 256. 
Wentworth, N. H. 211. 
Westboro, Mass. 126. 

W. Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Westbrook, Me. 284, 309. 
Westerly, R. I. 70. 
Westfield, Mass. 110, 142. 
Westford, Mass. 176. 

W. Lebanon, N. H. 199. 

W. Medford, Mass. 188. 
Westminster, Mass. 177. 
Westminster, Vt. 164. 
Weston, Me. 319. 

W. Ossipee, N. H. 214, 220. 
West Point, N. Y. 344. . 
Westport, Conn. 87. 
Westport, Me. 299. 
Westport, Mass. 92. 
Westport, N. Y. 365. 

West Rock, Conn. 83. 

W. Rutland, Vt. 182, 187. 
W. Troy, N. Y. 350. 
Wethersfield, Conn. 139. 
Weymouth, Mass. 48. 
Whately, Mass. 162. 
Whiteface Mt. 220. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 188, 356. 
White Id., N. H. 266. 
White River June., Vt. 166, 
199 

White Mt. Notch 231. 


White Mts. 213, 222. 
Wickford, R. I. 67. 
Wilbraham, Mass. 130. 
Willard, Mt. 231. 

Willey House 231. 
Williamsburg, Mass. 110. 
Williams College 156. 
Williamstown, Mass. 156. 
Willimantic, Conn. 94. 
Willoughby Lake 170. 
Wilton, N. H. 192. 
Winchendon, Mass. 179. 
Winchester, Mass. 189. 
Winchester, N. H. 102. 
Windham, N. H. 279. 
Windsor, Conn. 133. 
Windsor, Mass. 144. 
Windsor, Vt. 165. 

Wing Road, N. H. 212. 
Winnepesaukee Lake, N. 

VT 91 9S9 

Winooski, Vt. 204, 366. 
Winsted, Conn. 113. 
Winterport, Me. 318. 
Wintlirop, Me. 30S. 
Wiscasset, Me. 298. 
Woburn, Mass. 189. 
Wolcottville, Conn. 113. 
Wolfboro, N. H. 214, 218. 
Wood’s Hole, 59, 92. 
Woodstock, Conn. 117. 
Woodstock, N. B. 323. 
Woodstock, N. H. 241. 
Woodstock, Vt. 199. 
Woolwich, Me. 298. 
Woonsocket, R. I. 93, 120. 
Worcester, Mass. 127. 
Antiquarian Soc. 128. 
Industrial School 127. 
Monuments 129. 

Yale College, Conn. 75, 80. 
Yantic Falls, Conn. 96. 
Yarmouth, Me. 309. 
Yarmouth, Mass 56. 
Yonkers, N. Y. 341. 

York, Me. 266. 




428 


INDEX. 


Index of Historical Allusions. 


Albany, N. Y. 349. 

Bangor, Me. 316. 

Battle of Bennington 186. 
Bloody Brook 162. 
Bunker Hill 26. 

Castine 302. 

the Chesapeake and 
Shannon 255. 
Hubbardton 187. 
the Indians 150. 

Lake George 356. 
Lexington 28. 

Pequawket 286. 

Pequot Hill 72. 
Plattsburg 367. 

Quebec 376. 

Saratoga 355. 

Turner’s Falls 178. 
Biddeford 269. 

Block Island 71. 

Boston 7. 

Braintree, Mass. 38. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85. 
Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Brunswick, Me. 309. 
Burlington, Vt. 367. 

Cape Ann 248. 

Cape Cod 55. 

Castine, Me. 302. 

Chambly, Can. 208. 
Charlestown, N. H. 165. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 

Crown Point, N. Y. 364. 
Cuttyhunk, Mass. 92. 


Danbury, Conn. 116. 
Deerfield, Mass. 163. 
Dover, N. H. 282. 
Duxbury, Mass. 50. 

Fort Montgomery, 344. 
Fort Ticonderoga, 362. 
Fryeburg, Me. 286. 

Hadley, Mass. 161. 
Hampton, N. H. 262. 

Isles of Shoals 266. 
Kennebunk, Me. 268. 

Lake Champlain 361. 

Lake George 357. 

Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
Litchfield, Conn. 112, 113. 
Londonderry, N. II. 279. 
Louisbnrg Campaigns 7. 
Lynn, Mass. 250. 
Marblehead, Mass. 256. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Milford, Conn. 84. 
Montreal 368. 

Mount Desert 306. 
Nantucket 60. 
Narragansett Fort Fight 
69. 

Natick, Mass. 125. 

New Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New Haven, Conn. 77. 

New London, Conn. 72. 
New York 328. 
Newburyport, Mass. 260. 
Newport, R. I. 40. 


Norridgewock, Me. 293. 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
Pemaquid, Me. 299. 
Phipsburg, Me. 297. 
Pilgrim Compact 58. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 
Portland, Me. 271. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 264. 
Providence, R. I. 63. 
Quebec 376. 

Rhode Island 46. 

Rye, N. H. 263. 

St. John, N. B. 321. 
Salem, Mass. 253. 
Salisbury, Conn. 123. 

Say brook. Conn. 75. 
Scarborough, Me. 270. 
Southport, Conn. 87. 
Springfield, Mass. 181. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 149. 
Stonington, Conn. 71. 
Stony Point, N. Y. 343. 
Sudbury, Mass. 125. 
Tliomaston, Me. 301. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 

Wells, Me. 268. 

West Point, N. Y. 344. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 356. 
White Mts. 222. 

Windsor, Conn. 133. 
Worcester, Mass. 129. 
Yale College 75, 76, 80. 
York, Me. 267. 


Index of Biographical Allusions. 


Adams, Charles Francis 38. 
Adams, John 37. 

Adams, John Quincy 37. 
Adams, Samuel 13. 

Allen, Ethan 201, 363. 

Allen, William 146. 

Allston, Washington 31, 45. 
Ames, Fisher 117. 

Andre, Major John 343. 
Andrew, Gov. John A. 24. 
Arnold, Benedict 342, 363, 376. 
Banks, Nathaniel P. 175. 
Barlow, Joel 116. 

Barnards, the 153. 

Barnum, Pliineas T. 86. 
Beecher, Henry Ward 113. 
Beecher, Lyman 79, 113. 
Bellows, Henry W. 181. 
Berkeley, Dean George 45. 
Bowdoin, James 92, 310. 
Brentons, the 46. 

Brooks, Gov. John 189. 

Brown, Col. John 152, 358, S63. 


Brown, John 152, 113. 

Bryant, William Cullen 110, 157, 340. 
Casey, Gen. Silas 67. 

Cass, Lewis 281. 

Chamberlain, Gov. J. L. 311. 
Champlain, Samuel de 361, 61, 55. 
Champlin Com. Stephen 68. 

Ch aiming, William Ellery 42. 

Chase, Bishop Philander 166. 

Chase, Chief-Justice Salmon P. 166. 
Chase, Senator Dudley 166. 

Choate, Rufus 257. 

Cole, Thomas 348. 

Copley, John Singleton 31. 

Crosswell, Harry 79. 

Dane, Nathan 256. 

Davenport, Abraham 89. 

Dawes, Henry L. 110. 

Dickinson, Daniel S. 115. 

Dix, J olm A. 197. 

Dixwell, John 80. 

Douglas, Stephen A. 183. 

Downes, Com. John 62. 





INDEX. 


429 


Dudley, Gov. Thomas 36. 

Eaton, Gen. William 130. 

Edwards, Jonathan 150, 159, 

Eliot, John 36, 120. 

Ellsworth, Oliver 134. 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo 28. 

Fessenden, William Pitt 197. 

Fields, the 150. 

Fisk, Wilbur 103. 

Foote, Admiral Andrew H. 79. 

Franklin, Benjamin 11. 

Garrison, William Lloyd 261. 

Cays, the 24. 

Goffe, Gen. William 161. 

Goodrich, C. A. 79. 

Goodrich, S. G. 116. 

Gorton, Samuel 67. 

Grants, the 134. 

Greeley, Horace 192. 

Greene, Gen. G. S. 67* 

Greene, Gen. Nathaniel 67. 

Grow, Galusha A. 118. 

Hale, Senator John P. 213, 281. 

Halleck, Fitz Greene 76. 

Hancock, John 38. 

Haraden, Capt. Jonathan 248. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 254, 28, 210, 311. 
Hazens, the 280. 

Holmes, Oliver Wendell 30, 146. 
Hooker, Gen. Joseph 162. 

Hosmer, Harriet G. 35. 

Howard, Gen. Oliver O. 291. 

Howe, Elias, Jr. 130. 

Hudson, Hendrick 55, 340. 

Ives, Bishop Levi S. 140. 

Judson, Adoniram 275. 

Knowlton, Col. Thomas 118. 

Knox, Gen. Henry 301. 

Lander, Gen. F. W. 254. 

Lawrences, the 279. 

Lincoln, Gen. Benjamin 24. 

Lougfellow, Henry W. 33, 311. 

Lowell, James Russell 30. 

Lyon, Gen. Nathaniel 118. 

Mansfield, Gen. J. K. F. 107. 

Marsh, Geo. P. 199. 

Mead, Larkin G. 103. 

Melville, Herman 146. 

Miantonomoh, 72, 97. 

Miller, William 146. 

Mills, Samuel J. 156. 

Monis, Rabbi Judah 126. 

Morse, S. F. B. 79, 346. 

Murray, John 246. 

Murray, W. H. H. 76. 

Nanunteno 98. 


Nott, Eliphalet 118. 

Ossoli, Margaret Fuller, Countess d’ 30. 
Paine, Thomas 90. 

Parker, Thomas 260. 

Passaconaway, 194, 220, 222. 

Pepperell, Sir William 265: 

Percival, James Gates 140. 

Perry, Com. Oliver Hazard 68. 

Philip, King 66. 

Phips, Sir William 298. 

Pickering, Timothy 254. 

Pierce, Franklin 196, 311. 

Powers, Hiram 199. 

Preble, Com. Edward 272. 

Prescott, William H. 254, 105. 

Putnam, Gen. Israel 119, 89, 254. 

Rale, Sebastian 293. 

Ran tout, Robert, Jr. 256. 

Rumford, Count 195. 

St. Castine, Vincent, Baron de 302. 
Sandeman, Robert 116. 

Saxe, John Godfrey 208. 

Seabury, Bishop Samuel 74. 

Shaw, Henry W. (“Josh. Billings”) 153. 
Sherman, Roger 79. 

Silliman, Benjamin 79. 

Smith, Joseph 200. 

Standish, Miles 51. 

Stowe, Mrs. Harriet Beecher 113. 

Stuart, Gilbert C. 68. 

Thoreau, Henry D. 28. 

Ticknor, George 17, 167. 

Trumbulls, the 9S. 

Uncas, 72, 97. 

Ward, Gen. Artemas 126. 

Ward, Gen. F. T. 254. 

Warren, Joseph 27. 

Washburnes, the 291. 

Webster, Daniel 49, 287, 197, 210. 
Webster, Noah 79. 

Whitefield, George 259. 

Whitney, Prof. W.D. 159. 

Whittier, John Greenleaf 261. 

Williams, Col. Ephraim 156, 356. 
Williston, Samuel 110. 

Wilson, Henry 282. 

Winslow, Admiral John A. 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Edward 50. 

Winslow, Gen. John 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Josiah 50. 

Winthrop, John 14. 

Winthrop, Theodore 79. 

Wolcotts, the 134. 

Wonnolancet 194. 

Young, Brigham 104, 200. 


Index of Quotations. 


Adams, John Quincy 38, 58. 
Andrew, John A. 149. 
Bartol, Dr. C. A. 215. 


Beecher, Henry Ward 105, 114, 117, 121, 
122, 147, 148, 149, 151, 152, 153, 205. 
Berkeley, Dean 45. 




430 


INDEX. 


Biard, Father 307. 

Bremer, Fredrika 28, 147, 190, 217, 238. 
Bryant, William Cullen 151. 

Burke, Edmund 248. 

Canadian Hand-Book 174, 290, 372. 
Champlain, Samuel de 361. 

Chapman, Bev. Dr. 166. 

Charlevoix, Father 294. 

Chateaubriand 344. 

Connecticut Legislature 70, 72. 

Coolidge and Mansfield 191, 192. 

Cooper, J. Fenimore 26, 29. 

Courier, Boston 141. 

Curtis, George William 144. 

Dickens, Charles 9, 19, 106, 190. 

Dilke, Sir Charles 20, 30, 57, 165, 212, 
378 

Drake, Francis S. 13, 28, 42, 50, 150, 261. 
Dwight, Pres. Timothy 71, 86, 98, 99, 
146, 158, 249, 260, 275, 366. 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo 28. 

Everett, Edward 27, 52, 156, 215. 

Field, Darby 222. 

Gookin, Daniel, 59, 69. 

Greylock, Godfrey 143, 145, 146. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 151, 154, 155, 179. 
Hayes, Dr. 206. 

Hemans, Mrs. 52. 

Hitchcock, Dr. Edward 152, 178, 179. 
Hoar, Judge 129. 

Howells, William D. 103, 386. 
Humphreys, Col. 86. 

Irving,' Washington 344, 346. 

J ohnston, Lady Arabella 254. 

Josselyn, John 7, 15. 

Kemble, Fanny 147. 


King, Thomas Starr 212, 214, 215, 216, 
221, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 232, 
235, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241. 

Lewis, Alonzo 22. 

Longfellow, Henry W. 125, 126, 132, 246, 
39, 51, 76, 324. 

Lossing, Benson J. 73, 356. 

Lyell, Sir Charles 60, 146, 1S3, 223. 
Marmier, X. 377. 

Marryatt, Capt. 143. 

Mather, Cotton 38, 51, 72, 76, 78, 84, 98, 
136, 163, 253, 257, 260. 

Morton, Thomas 38. 

Bemaquid: a ballad 300. 

Percival, J. G. 217. 

Pring, Capt. 317. 

Sedgwick, Miss 143. 

Sigourney, Mrs. 97, 139. 

Silliman, Prof. 109, 140, 147, 377. 

Smith, Capt. John 49, 55, 257. 

Southey, Robert 189. 

Taylor, Bayard 232. 

Thomas, Judge 129. 

Tlioreau, H. D. 28, 49, 55, 57. 
Tocqueville, de 80. 

Trumbull, John 159. 

Twain, Mark 137. 

Warville, Brissot de 41, 63, 107, 130, 135, 
264. 

Weymouth, Capt. 301, 317. 

Whittier, John G. 89, 104, 144, 195, 215, 
219, 220, 24S, 256, 260, 262, 263, 275, 
294, 305, 321. 

Williams, Roger 69. 

Winthrop, Theodore 243, 244, 296, 297. 
Wortley, Lady Emma S. 91, 92, 246. 





INDEX. 


431 


Index to Railways. 


Asliuelot 102. 

Athol and Enfield 100. 

Bangor and Piscataquis 295. 

Boston and Albany 124, 141. 

Boston, Clinton, and Fitchburg 125 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal 209. 
Boston, Hartford, and Erie 117. 

Woonsocket Division 120. 

Boston, Lowell, and Nashua 188. 
Boston and Maine 275. 

Dover and Winnepesaukee 282. 
Boston and Providence 62. 

Cape Cod 54. 

Cheshire 179. 

Concord 192. 

Concord and Claremont 196. 
Connecticut and Passumpsic 166. 
Connecticut River 157. 

Connecticut Valley 106. 

Connecticut Western 120. 

Danbury and Norwalk 115. 

Eastern 248. 

Amesbury Branch 261. 

Essex Branch 257. 

Marblehead Branch 255. 

P. G. F. and Conway 213. 

European and North American 318. 
Fairhaven 54. 

Fitchburg 175. 

Grand Trunk 287. 

Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill 94. 
Housatonic 114, 147. 


Knox and Lincoln 297. 

Lowell and Lawrence 279. 

Maine Central 307, 309. 

Androscoggin 291. 

Manchester and Lawrence 279. 
Monadnock 179. 

Naugatuck 111. 

New Brunswick and Canada 323. 

New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield 
133. 

New Haven and Stonington 71. 

New Haven and Northampton 108. 

New York and New Haven 84. 
Newburyport 276. 

Northern (N. H.) 197. 

New London Northern 96. 

Old Colony 36. 

Portland and Ogdensburg 284. 

Portland and Rochester 213. 

Portland and Oxford Central 287. 
Providence and Bristol 66. 

Providence and Worcester 93. 
Rensselaer and Saratoga 187, 350. 
Rutland and Washington 187. 

Salem and Lowell 255. 

South Shore 48. 

Stonington and Providence 67. 

Vermont Central 199. 

Rutland Division 181. 

Vermont and Mass. 177. 

Worcester and Nashua 104. 


Steamers. 


Boston to Bangor 316. 

“ “ Hingham 22. 

“ “ Nahant 20. 

“ “ St. John 321. 

Fall River Line 47. 
Norwich “ 119. 
Stonington “ 71. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59, 92. 
St. Lawrence River 373. 
Hudson “ 340. 


Saguenay River 375, 385. 
Mt. Desert Line 302. 

Isles of Shoals 265. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Casco “ 274. 

Passamaquoddy Bay 322. 
Lake Champlain 361. 

“ George 357. 

“ Winnepesaukee 215. 




ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO ADYEETISEMENTS. 


* 


Page 

AMERICAN HOUSE.6 

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS, &c. . p. facing 2d p. cover 

* 4 

ERADFORD & ANTHONY.4 

CHICKERING & SONS.23 

CHILSON, GARDNER,.24 

DREXEL & CO.20 

EASTERN RAILROAD . . . . 3d p. cover and p. facing 3d p. cover. 

GOURAUD, DR. T. FELIX,.21 

HE WINS & HOLLIS. 2 

“INGLESIDE”.5 

INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO.12 

MACULLAR, WILLIAMS, & PARKER.3 

MILLER (THE HENRY F.) PIANO .... last colored leaf. 
MERRIMAN, G. & C.4 

NEW YORK TRIBUNE.18,19 

OAK HILL HOUSE.10 

OSGOOD’S LIBRARY OF NOVELS.15 

PARKER HOUSE. . 7 

PALMER, BACHELDERS, & CO..5 

PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD.14 

PORTLAND STEAM PACKET CO.11 

POPULAR NEW BOOKS.22 

READ (WM.) & SONS . . . , . ^ . . . . 2d p. cover. 

REVERE HOUSE.8 

SHORE LINE TO NEW YORK.13 

SNOW’S RAILWAY GUIDE.16 

SNOW’S WHITE MOUNTAIN MAP.16 

STONINGTON LINE TO NEW YORK.13 

TRAVELERS INSURANCE CO.17 

TREMONT HOUSE . . 8 

WALTHAM WATCHES.1 

WESTMINSTER HOTEL. o 


























ADVERTISEMENTS. 1 

STEM-WINDING 

WALTHAM 

WATCHES. 

These Watches are the best made in the United States , and 
are accurately adjusted to heat, cold, and position, and war¬ 
ranted to satisfy the most exacting demand for beauty, finish, 
and accuracy . 

A Complete Assortment always in Stock, 

m FIWE GOLD CASKS. 

SEND FOB CATALOGUES. *=3^ 

HOWARD & CO., 

i 

! 

J"ewellers and Silversmiths., 

222 Fifth Avenue, 

NEW YORK- 














! 2 AD VERT1SEMENTS. 

Hewins & Hollis, 

47 Temple Place, .... Boston, 



IMPORTERS AND RETAILERS OF 



FINE SHIRTS 

CAREFULLY MADE TO ORDER. 

In this stock will be found the best goods of the best manufacturers of 
England and France, made to our special order for the best New England 
trade. 

foF} '] , RAVEEEEF(g. 

English Railway Rugs, Scotch Shawls, Flannel and Cheviot Shirts, 
English Silk Umbrellas, Feather Collar-Boxes, Money-Belts, 
Bath-Towels, Dressing-Gowns and Breakfast-Jackets, 
and a complete assortment of Hosiery, 

Gloves, and Neckwear. 

"pOE JLaDIEJB. 

Eondon-made Waterproof Cloaks ; in stock, or imported to 

special order. 

HEWINS & HOLLIS, 

47 Temple Place, 

BOSTON. 

















AD VERTISEMENTS. 


3 


MACULLAR, WILLIAMS, & PARKER. 


During the rebuilding of our store at No. 200 
Washington Street, our business will be continued 
in all Departments at No. 03 Washington Street, 
between Court Street and Cornhill. 


DEPARTMENTS. 

Wholesale Piece Goods, 

Wholesale Clothing, 

Retail Clothing, 

Custom Clothing, 

Retail Furnishing Goods. 


MACULLAR, WILLIAMS, & PARKER. 











AD VERT1 SEME NTS. 


4 


BRADFORD & ANTHONY, 

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 

CUTLERY, 

IFisMsifj 

SKATES, AND FANCY HARDWARE. 

Table Cutlery — of latest styles, — finest finish and serviceable quality. 

Pocket Knives — of all the noted makers in every style. — Fancy Knives. 
Scissors — elegantly finished, — all sizes and forms, — in sets and cases. 

Razors— Dressing Cases — Travelling: Cases. —Small Steel Wares and 
articles of Domestic and Fancy Hardware in endless varietj 7 . 

Fisliing: Rods, Fines, Reels, and Tackle for all waters. 

Patent Club Skates of the best styles, and all Kinds of Skates, and many other 
articles of Utility and Taste, — comprising all that is Choice and Desirable in the 
above Classes of Goods. 

Hotels supplied with Cutlery made to tlieir special order. 

Orders by Mail will receive prompt and careful attention. 


BRADFORD & 

NEW STORE, 


AT 18 boylston street, 

Mil 1 nUll F j Till Autumn of 1873. 

THEN WE SHALL MOVE TO 

8 78 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON. 



(SET THE BEST. 

Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary. 

10,000 Words and Meanings not in other Dictionaries. 

3,000 Engravings; 1840 Pages Quarto. Price, $ 12. 

^MF* e ' :)S ^ er n ° W * s ^°ri° U3 ' — leaves nothing to be desired. 

E ** “ , , , , [Pres. Raym 

very scholar knows its value. 

Jg|een one of my daily companions. 

Jggo far as I know, best defining dictionary. 

lFJ|^Ihe best guide of students of our language. 

Jj^ xcels all others in defining scientific terms. 


[Pres. Raymond, Vassar College.] 
[W. H. Prescott, the Historian.] 
[John L. Motley, the Historian, &c.] 
[Horace Mann ] 
[John G. Whittier.] 

H [President Hitchcock. 1 

emarkable compendium of human knowledge. 

. .. . [W. S. Clark, Pres’t Ag. College ] 

w. , n ^f ssi y , for *very intelligent family, student, teacher, and professional man. 
What Library is complete wirhout the best English Dictionary ? 

\ Published by G. & C. MERRIAM, Springfield, Mass. Sold by all Booksellers. 


















AD VERTI SEME NTS. 


Eftablifhed 1817 


PALMER, BACHELDERS, & CO, 


-A.mericaii and Foreign 


WATCHES, 


Diamond & Stone Cameo Jewelry, 

STERLING SILVER ELATE, 

PARIS MANTEL CLOCKS AND BRONZES, 

No. 31 Temple Place, 

BOSTON. 


INGLESIDE, 



A- 


First-Class Rural Hotel Home. 


Accessibly Located on the Holyoke and Westfield Railroad, 

Provided with every Modem Improvement, and commanding 
Unsurpassed Views of Mountain, Valley, 
and River Scenery. 


&% Miles from Springfield 
2>^ Miles from Holyoke. 


Five Hours from New York, 
Four Hours from Boston, 


All Springfield Railway Trains from the South, East, and West connect with 
Trains for Holyoke ; thence to Ingleside by cars or carriage. 

Trains leave Westfield for Ingleside, at 9.25 A. M., 1.28 and 8.18 P M. 

Trains leave Holyoke, 6.40, 11.30, A. M., 5.30 P. M. 

Communications, either by Letter or Telegram, will receive Prompt Attention. 


Address, INGEESIDE, Holyoke, Mass, 


G. L. HENRY, Manager. 


J. S. DAVIS, Proprietor. 


Late of Haynes Hotel. 


















i i 


AMERICAN” 




CENTRALLY LOCATED. 

CONTAINS OVER FOUR HUNDRED ROOMS. 

SUITES AND SINGLE APARTMENTS, WITH BATHING AND WA¬ 
TER CONVENIENCES ADJOINING. 

PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE FOR FAMILIES AND SUMMER 
TOURISTS. 

PASSENGER ELEVATOR IN CONSTANT OPERATION. 
READING-ROOM, BILLIARD-HALLS, AND TELEGRAPH-OFFICE. 


LEWIS RICE & SON, Proprietors. 

56 Hanover Street. 

























r 


AD VER TI SEME NTS. 


7 


PARKER HOUSE, 


School Street, 



HARVEY D. PARKER, 
JOHN F. MILLS. 


BOSTON - . 


ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. 


The most comfortable Dining-Rooms and Restaurant, with the best 
service and cooking to be found in Boston. 


























































8 AD VER TISEME NTS. 


TREMONT HOUSE, 

Corner of Beacon and Tremont Sts.) BOSTON. 


REVERE HOUSE, 


The above well-established First-Class Hotels are now in perfect appoint¬ 
ment, and offer unsurpassed accommodations to tourist and traveller. 

CHAPIN, GURNET, 8c CO., 

Proprietors. 

June 1, 1873. 


Bowdoin Square, 


BOSTON. 












































AD VERTI SEME NTS. 


The location of this house is one of the most central yet quiet in the 
City, only one block from Union Square, and within easy walking distance 
of all the places of amusement, Tiffany’s, Stewart’s, Arnold and Con¬ 
stable’s, Lord Taylor’s, and all the famous Bazaars of the metropolis. 

Rooms from $1.50 to $10.00 per day. 

CHARLES B. FERRIN, 

Proprietor. 


ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. 


Corner of Sixteenth Street and Irving Place, 


HEW YORK. 

















































10 AD VER TI SEME NTS. 



LITTLETON, N. H. 


--» — 

The site on which it is built has long been a favorite resort of the tourist, and com¬ 
mands the most beautiful and extensive views of 

The White Mountains 

in the State. From the piazza of the house the whole Mt. Washington range, from 
Mooselook to Mt. Adams, may be plainly seen, giving a magnificent view of over 
eighty miles, —the finest in New England. 

The rooms are large and commodious, and without exception afford pleasant 
prospects. The furniture throughout is new and nice. The grounds, comprising five 
acres, are being fitted up with a view of furnishing all the out-door exercises and 
amusements adapted to the wants of summer visitors. The house is supplied with the 
purest of running water from a never-failing spring near by. 

RURAL, PICTURESQUE, SECLUDED WALKS AND RETREATS 

abound within a short distance of the house, and pleasant rides in all directions. A 
good Billiard and Bowling Saloon is also connected with the premises. 

The tables are supplied with all the luxuries of the season, and are not excelled 
by any other mountain house. 

Being located within the precincts of one of the most flourishing villages of North¬ 
ern New Hampshire, and within an easy ride of both the “ Notches,” and 

AIL THE PROMINENT POINTS OF INTEREST 

about the White Mountains, and within five minutes’ walk of White Mountain Rail¬ 
road Depot, which connects with the Railroads in all directions, it cannot fail to be 
regarded as an extremely desirable House for both tourists and transient guests. 

Transient Guests, $3.00 per day; Boarders, per week, $8.00 
to $15.00, according to room. 

CHAS. C. KNAPP & CO. 

May 1, 1873. 






AD VER T1 SEME NTS. 


11 


PORTLAND STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 


DAILY LINE OF FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS BETWEEN 

Portland and Boston 

THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. 



One of the splendid Steamers of this Line, 

JOHN BROOKS, - - MONTREAL, - - FOREST CITY, 

Will leave India Wharf, Boston, every evening, Sundays excepted, connecting, on 
arrival at Portland, with railway trains for 

North Conway, White Mountains, Gorham, N. 55., 

Montreal, Quebec, and all parts of Canada. 

ALSO WITH STEAMERS FOR 

Bangor, Mt. Desert, Macbias, Halifax, N. S., Prince Edward 
Island, and Cape Breton. 

Returning, leave Portland every evening for Boston (Sundays excepted). 

D3” Through Tickets to the above points sold on board the 
steamers. 

The Steamers of this Line are magnificently furnished, and have a large number of 
elegant and airy State-rooms, and tourists will find this a most pleasant route to the 
MOUNTAINS, combining a short sea-trip and a railway ride. 

TIME OP SAILING. 

Eeave Boston, in Summer, at 7 P. M. In Winter, at 5 P. M. 

“ Portland, in Summer, at S P. M. In Winter, at 7 P. M. 


j WM. WEEKS, Agent, 
INDIA WIIARF, 
Boston. 


W. E. BTEEINGS, Agent, 
ATLANTIC WHARF, 
Portland. 
























12 AD VER TISEMENTS. 


Arrangement for 1873. 


INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMP'Y 

LINE OF STEAMERS BETWEEN 

BOSTON, 

PORTLAND, EASTPORT, & ST. JOHN, N. B., 

WITH CONNECTIONS TO CALAIS, ME., 

Halifax, r*r= 

Charlottetown, P. E. Isl., etc. . 

The favorite, superior, sea-going steamers of this line, 

NEW YORK, NEW BRUNSWICK, 

AND 

CITY OF PORTLAND, 

Leave encl of Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M., and 
Railroad Wharf, Portland, at 6 P. M. } for East- 
port and St. John as follows; 

In April, May, and June, every Monday and Thursday. 

In July, August, September, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 
(From July 8th to August 26th a steamer will leave every Tuesday in addition, mak¬ 
ing in all four round trips per week.) 

In October and November every Monday and Thursday, and in December 
every Monday. 

Passengers by the 8 % A. M. and P. M. trains of Eastern and Boston and 
Maine Railroads from Boston can take the steamer at Portland at 6 P. M 

Passengers forwarded by connecting steamers and railroad lines to Calais and 
Iloulton Me., St. Andrews, Woodstock, Fredericton, and Shediac, N. B., Amherst, 
Truro, New Glasgow, Pictou, Digby, Annapolis, Kentville, Windsor, Liverpool, and 
Halifax, N. S., Summerside and Charlottetown, P. E. I. 

Rates of fare from Boston to Eastport, $4.50; Calais, $5.00; St.John, $500; 
St. John and return, $9.00; Digby, 6.50; Annapolis, $7.00; Kentville, $7.50; 
Halifax, $8.50; Shediac, $ 7.50 ; Summerside, $ 9.00 ; Charlottetown, $ 10.00. 

Through tickets and State Rooms secured at the Agents’ 
offices or of clerks on board. 


AGENTS; A. R. Stubbs, Portland; George Hates, Eastport; Thomas John¬ 
son, Calais; H. W. Chisholm, St. John. 

W. H. KILBY, End of Commercial Wharf, 

BOSTON. 













AD VER TI SEME NTS. 13 


STONINGTON LIME 

TO 

New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, 

AND ALL POINTS SOUTH AND WEST! 


Inside Route via Providence and Stonington. 


Connects with the new and splendid sea-going Steamers, 

N ARR AGANSETT, STONINGTON, 

Capt. Ray Allen. Capt. Jesse Mott. 


Passengers will take the Steamboat Express Train, at Boston and Providence 
Railroad Station, corner of Park Square and Columbus Avenue, at 5.30 P. M , arriv¬ 
ing in New York the following morning ahead of all other lines. 


SHORE LIME 

VIA 

Providence, New London, and New Haven, 

TO 

YORK! 

* 

PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, 

AND ALL PO NTS SOUTH AND WEST! 

TWO DAILY TRAINS leave from the Boston and Providence Railroad 
Station, corner of Park Square and Columbus Avenue. 

11.10 A. M., New York Express. 9.30 P. M., New York Express. 

Sunday Night Mail, 9.30 P. M. Wagner’s Drawing-Room Cars on all Day 
Trains, and Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains. 

Through Tickets, Berths, and Chairs can be secured at the Boston, and Providence 
Railroad Station, and at the Office of 

J. W. RICHARDSON, Agent, 

@2 Wasliisigtoai Street, .... Bostoas. 


























AD VERTISEMENTS. 


14 

NOTICE! 


-- 

Passengers en route for tlie West who travel by way of 

THE GREAT PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD Iiave the privi- 

lege of visiting and stopping over, for any length of time, in 


Hie cities of New York and Philadelphia, WITHOUT EX* 

TRA CHARGE. Tickets good until used. Baggage checked 

through* Heavy Steel Rails. Suspension Joints. Double 

Track. Road ballasted with a toed of broken limestone 

twenty inches deep. Cars lighted hy gas and heated l>y 

steam. Free from Dust and the action of Frost. Iron or Stone 
Bridges. No Trestle-work. Trains run by Telegraph. Per- 

fect Signal Service. Westinghouse Air - Brakes. Pullman 

Day and Sleeping Cars to Chicago, Cincinnati, Indianapolis , 

Eouisville, St. Eouis, and intermediate points WITHOUT 

CHANGE, and to Quincy, Kansas City, Sioux City, Omaha* 
Cleveland, Milwaukee, St. Paul, Memphis, Mobile, New Or¬ 
leans, and Denison, Texas, with BUT ONE CHANGE of cars. 
Continuous Trains — no connections to miss. No Midnight 

4 

Changes. No Detention from Snow. Courteous Employees. 
Unusual facilities for Superior Meals at suitable hours. 


UNEQUALLED in Structure, Equipment, Speed, Comfort, 
and Security. Unrivalled in Beauty and Variety of Scenery. 
Rates always as low as by any other Route. 

THROUGH TICKETS 

TO ALL POINTS IN THE WESTERN AND SOUTHERN STATES 

FOR SALE AT 

77 and 79 Washington Street, Boston, 

AND PRINCIPAL TICKET OFFICES IN NEW ENGLAND. 

CYRUS S. HALDEMAN, . . New England Agent. 












































AD VERTI8EMENTS. 


15 


OSGOOD’S LIBRARY OF NOVELS. 


Woven of Many Threads. 50 cents. 

The Member for Paris. By Trois Etoiles. 75 cents. 

Nobody’s Fortune. By Edmund Yates. 75 cents. 

Can the Old Love ? By Z. B. Buddington. Illustrated. 75 cents. 
Kate Beaumont. By J. W. De Forest. Illustrated. 75 cents. 

A Crown from the Spear. By the Author of “ Woven of Many 
Threads.” 75 cents. 

Broken Toys. By Anna C. Steele. 75 cents. 

Only Three Weeks. 50 cents. 

Reginald Archer. By the Author of “ Emily Chester.” 75 cents. 

The Foe in the Household. By Caroline Chesebro’. 75 cents. 
Something to Do. 75 cents. 

Ina. By Katherine Valerio. 75 cents. 

The Marquis de Villemer. By George Sand. 75 cents. 

Cesarine Dietrich. By George Sand. 75 cents. 

A Rolling Stone. By George Sand. 50 cents. 

Handsome Lawrence. By George Sand. 50 cents. 

The Lost Despatch. 50 cents. 

The Mystery of Orcival. By Emile Gaboriau. 75 cents. 

“ Six Months Hence.” 75 cents. 

Choisy. By James P. Story. 75 cents. 

Love and Valor. By Tom Hood. 75 cents. 

Ethel Mildmay’s Follies. 75 cents. 

S The Story of Sibylle. By Octave Feuillet. 75 cents. 

The Lady of Lyndon. By Lady Blake. 75 cents. 

The Comedy of Terrors. By J. DeMille. 75 cents. 

The Yellow Flag. By Edmund Yates. 75 cents. 

Not Easily Jealous. 75 cents. 

The Widow Lerouge. By Emile Gaboriau. 75 cents. 

Not without Thorns. By Ennis Graham. 75 cents. 

Ready-Money Mortiboy. 75 cents. 

Ruth Maxwell. By Lady Blake. 75 cents. 

Ropes of Sand. 75 cents. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., PUBLISHERS, BOSTON. 











16 


AD VERTI SEME NTS. 


THE SUREST RAILWAY GUIDE-BOOK 

-is- 

Snow’s Pathfinder Railway Guide, 

FOR THE HEW ENGLAND STATES; 

Established July, 1849, 

BY AUTHORITY OF THE NEW ENGLAND ASSOCIATION 
OF RAILROAD SUPERINTENDENTS. 

The only OFFICIAL Work of the kind. 

It is printed in Book Form on the First Monday in every Month — containing 
OFFICIAL TIME-TABLES of the Railway Companies, with Stations, 
Distances, Fares, etc., etc., and other important information respecting Rail¬ 
way, Steamboat, and Stage Routes, and is accompanied by a complete map 
of the railway system of New England. 

A WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT 

is printed every Monday Morning, containing a simple statement of trains leaving 
Boston and return times; also, leaving time of Steamers, and the change of time on 
all New England Roads which may occur after the Book is printed. 

Single copies, 15 cents; sent, post-paid, on receipt of price. Subscription price, 
$ 2 50 per annum, including 12 copies of the book and 52 of the Supplement. 

GEO. K. SNOW & BRADLEE, Publishers, 

S9 Court St., Boston. 


RELIEF MAP OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 


This Map, published at the office of Snow’s Pathfinder Railway Guide, is the 
only Map of the White Mountains which gives the travellers an exact idea of the 
comparative elevation of the several peaks, or depths of the ravines. It is prepared 
in the most accurate manner, and presents a bird’s-eye view of the entire region as 
it would appear to the eye of a balloonist when elevated far above the entire range. 

It measures 9 by 11 inches, and is enclosed in a framework to protect it. The 
material U3ed in its manufacture is Papier-Mache, and the entire work was executed 
in Germany for the Publishers, and is offered to the public at the low price of $ 1.50, 
or will be sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price. Also, for sale at all the Hotels 
in the vicinity of the White Mcuntains, and at the leading Bookstores. Railroads, 
Stage-Routes, Hotels, Rivers, and all points of interest faithfully and accurately 
located. 

GEO. K. SNOW & BRADLEE, Publishers, 

S3 Court Street, Boston, Mass. 
















AD VERTISEMENTS. 


17 


ADVIOE TO TRAVELERS. 

Every man who travels, and every other man, is more 
or less exposed to death or injury by accident. Such men 
are reminded that there is a company organized for the 
special purpose of insuring against accidents to life and 
limb. Not against accidents of travel alone, but against 
accidents in general. 

So well has this company prosecuted the business of Acci¬ 
dent Insurance, that it has written upwards of two hundred 
and eighty-five thousand policies, and paid over Two Mil¬ 
lion Dollars in benefits to its policy-holders. We refer, of 
course, to the Travelers Insurance Company, of Hart¬ 
ford, Conn., which has cash assets of Two and a Half Mil¬ 
lions, is every way sound and reliable, and promptly pays 
all just claims. 

Every man, whether he travels much or little, should 
have one of the general accident policies of the Travelers. 
Thousands of men have them, and 

“There’s room for thousands more.” 


COST OF A YEARLY ACCIDENT POLICY 

In the Travelers Insurance Company. 


Amount 

Insured. 

Weekly 

Indemnity. 

ANNUAL PREMIUM. 

Class 

Preferred. 

Class 

Ordinary. 

Class 

Medium. 

1,000 

5.00 

5.00 

7.50 

10.00 

2,000 

10.00 

10.00 

15.00 

20.00 

3,000 

15.00 

15.00 

22.50 

30.00 

5,000 

25.00 

25.00 

37.50 

60.00 

10,000 

50.00 

50.00 

75.00 

— 


Preferred Class includes Clergymen, Editors, Lawyers, Merchants, Clerks, 
Bankers, Bookkeepers, etc. . .. . „ 

Ordinary Class includes Commercial Agents, Traveling Men, Insurance Adjusters, 
Bookbinders, Printers, Railroad Superintendents, Machinists, etc. 

Medium Class includes Passenger Conductors, Carpenters, Blacksmiths, Farmers, 
Butchers, Masons, Stage-Drivers, etc. _ 

Apply to any Agent, or write to the Company, at Hartford, Conn. 

June, 1873. 
























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A LIBRARY FOR FIFTY (50) CENTS. 

With Illustrations. 

literature, ;3irt, Jkience, anti Sjistom 


AD VER TISEMENTS. 


19 


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AD VER TISEMENTS. 


20 


DREXEL AND CO. 

34 South Third Street, 

PHILADELPHIA. 


DREXEL, MORGAN, AND CO. 

Broad and Wall Streets, 

NEW YORK. 


DREXEL, HARJES, AND CO. 

31 Boulevard Haussmann, 

PARIS. 

BANKERS. 


TRAVELERS’ AND COMMERCIAL CREDITS 

AVAILABLE IN ALL THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS 
AND CITIES OF EUROPE. 





AD VER TI SEME NTS. 


21 


WONDERFUL SUCCESS OF 

Dr.T. FELIX GOURAUD’S “ORIENTAL CREAM,’’ 

OR 

]VTagical Beauitifier. 

ITS FAME IS RAPIDLY SPREADING OVER THE COUNTRY. 


See the avalanche of Testimonials, selected from thousands, in its praise. 

A French lady writes : 

Mons. Gouraud, — ’Tis but an act of justice that I should spontaneously give you 
my unqualified testimonial of the united efficacy, innocence, and fragrance of your 
preparation for purifying and cleansing the skin. By its use every pimple and freckle 
have vanished from my face. You should, Mon Ami , as it is so sovereign and charm¬ 
ing a remedy for scattering all blemishes from our faces, call it le delice des dames. En 
un rnot,je suis enchante de le cosmetique etj’en vous remercie de tout mon coear. 

Emille Desmoulins, Madison Avenue. 


The following from the Eminent Tragedienne, Mrs. D. P. Bowers. 

Dr. Gouraud, — Will you send six bottles of your “ Oriental Cream ” to the above 
address, not forgetting to be reasonable in price? Yours Truly, Mrs. D. P. Bowers. 


The following from Mrs. Col. Young, Eady of Col. Young, of 
“ Young’s Kentucky Cavalry.” 

Dr. T. Felix Gouraud. Hamilton, Ohio, July 7, 1859. 

Dear Sir, — Some weeks since I wrote to you, enclosing the Sunday Despatch, 
with a notice of your valuable cosmetic, “ Oriental Cream.” I fear that you did not 
receive my communication; if not, I shall be much pleased to hear from you, and also 
gratified to receive a half-dozen of your charming preparation for the complexion. 
Your “ Oriental Cream ” should be immortalized, as I have no doubt it is already by 
many a fair dealer in this charming device for rendering youth immortal. The wo¬ 
men are all crazy to know my recipe for a brilliant complexion. I have lost half of my 
good looks already for the want of this indispensable luxury, as I am travelling for 
the health of my little boy. Obediently yours, F. L. Young. 


From the Countess de Bierski, a Beading Society Bady. 

Dr. Gouraud. Rochester, February 18,1867. 

Dear Sir, — Please send me two more bottles of your charming “ Oriental Cream,” 
by American Express, and oblige Yours respectfully, Countess de Bierski. 


From Miss Fannie Stockton, the Prima Donna of the Opera House. 

Buffalo, December, 1866. 

Dr. T. F. Gouraud, —I do not wish to put anything else in contact with my face, 
so delighted am I with this matchless cosmetique. Please send me ten bottles. 

- Fannie Stockton. 

Bangor, Me. 

Dr. Gouraud, — I have found your “ Cream” so delicious; it softens and makes 
the skin so beautiful: it does give me faith in jrnur other preparations. 

- Miss Anna Gjf**. 

St. Louis. 

Dr. T. Felix Gouraud, — The “ Cream ” is the nicest wash for the skin; it is ex¬ 
cellent. -- Mrs. E. Curtin. 

Boston. 

Dr. Gouraud, —Your “ Oriental Cream” is perfectly delicious; it is so cooling 
and refreshing. - Mrs. Eaton. 

From Evans, the celebrated Perfumer, of Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia, April 30,1868. 

Dr. Gouraud, — I think your “ Cream ” is unquestionably the best thing in this 
line, from the reason, when a lady once uses it she continues it in preference to any¬ 
thing else. Our customers for it are regular ones. I find it is retailed by the drug¬ 
gists and fancy stores at Two Dollars a bottle yet. There is more sold here than you 
are aware of. What is required to insure a large sale is a liberal amount spent in ju¬ 
dicious advertising. Let the ladies know its merits, and especially the price, and if 
they once try it we secure a regular customer. If I was the owner, I would sell more 
of it in this city than all the rest of the skin preparations put together. T. W. Evans. 

Prepared and invented by DR. T. FEBIX GOURAUD, 48 Bond St., N. Y. 
Established 183D. To be had of Druggists, &c. 


















22 AD V-ER TISE ME NTS. 


POPULAR NEW BOOKS. 

- 1 - 

WHAT TO WEAR? 

By Elizabeth Stoart Phelps, author of “ The Gates Ajar,” “The Silent Part¬ 
ner,” etc. 1 vol. 16mo. Paper, 50 cent 3 5 Clotb $ 1.00. 

CONTENTS.—Gorgons or Graces? — “Dressed to kill.” — The Moral of it.— 
What can we do about it ? — After-thoughts. — Our Fashion Plate. 


AMONG THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 

By Celia Thaxter. Illustrated by H. Fenn. 1vol. Small 4to. $1.60. 
“ A book no one who visits the islands can do without.” — Boston Advertiser. 


A CHANCE ACQUAINTANCE. 

By W. D. Howells, author of “ Venetian Life,” “ Italian Journeys,” “ Suburban 
Sketches,” “ Their Wedding Journey,” etc. 1 vol. Small 4to. Uniform with 
“ Bits of Travel,” “ Among the Isles of Shoals.” $ 1.50. 

“ A delicious summer idyl.” — Hartford Courant. 


GREG’S Enigmas of Life. $2.00. 

A thoughtful, earnest, independent man, calmly and profoundly discussing several 
of the most perplexing questions of human experience and destiny. 


MATTHEW ARNOLD’S Literature and Dogma. 

$ 1 . 50 . 

A book of surpassing interest on a theme of great importance to all thoughtful 
readers. 

MRS. WHITNEY’S The Other Girls. $2.00. 

Fascinating, wise, witty, full of entertainment and suggestions to noble and happy 
living. 

WARNER’S My Summer in a Garden. $1.00. 
Saunterings. $ 1 . 50 . 

Backlog Studies. $ 2.00. 

Three of the freshest, wittiest, most sensible, and most readable books in American 
literature. 


KATE FIELD’S Hap-Hazard. Uniform with “ A Chance 
Acquaintance.” $1.50. 

“One of the brightest, freshest, breeziest books of the season.” — Boston Cor¬ 
respondent New York Tribune. 

*** For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, 

_ JAMES E. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 














AD VERT1SEMENTS. 


23 


CHICKERING & SONS’ 

PSMtiOS 

Have taken the First PreiEiimn 

OVER ALL COMPETITION 

IN AMERICA, ENGLAND, AND FRANCE. 


THESE STANDARD INSTRUMENTS ARE NOW OFFERED 
AT REDUCED RATES ON THE 

ONE-PRICE SYSTEM. 


OF THESE STANDARD PIANO-FORTES HAVE BEEN MADE AND SOLD 

SINCE 1823, AND 

Eighty-One First Premiums have toeeai awarded 
to oar Firm over ail Competition. 


These Pianos are still regarded and universally conceded to be 

THE STANDARD INSTRUMENTS OF THE WORLD, 

and are so pronounced by all the great artists. 

Dr. Franz Liszt says : “ I consider the Chickering Piano superior to any made in 
Europe or America, and am fully convinced that they were justly entitled to the 
First Prize.” 

CHICKERING & SOUS’ MAMMOTH MANUFACTORY 

is more than one third larger than any other Piano-Forte Manufactory in the world, 
and is in every respect the most complete as regards machinery and the f tciiities for 
doing the very best class of work. Messrs. C. & S 'ns have, since the establish¬ 
ment of their business in 1823, made and sold 43,000 Pianos, and these Standard In¬ 
struments are now offered at Reduced Rates upon the ‘ Ose-Frice System,” free 
from all discounts and commissions ; and they are beyond all refutation the very 
best and very cheapest First-Class Pianos now offered. 

A CARD. 

We call especial attention to our 

UPRIGHT PIANOS, 

which are in every particular the finest instruments of their class manufactured, and 
second only to the Grand Piano, for which thty are a good substitute. 

Every Piano warranted for Five years. 

CHICKERING «fc SONS, 

791 Tremont Street, Boston.-11 E. 14th. Street, New York. 












24 AD VER TISEME NTS. 


FURNAGES 1 COOKING-RANGES. 

A long and thorough practical and successful experience in the invention and man¬ 
ufacture of Furnaces in their various forms of Cast and Wrought Iron has enabled 
me to really understand how to make a furnace smoke and gas tight , and to combine \ 
all the essentials requisite for HEALTH, ECONOMY, and DURABILITY in warming 
buildings; and from the testimony of the many thousands in use it would seem to be ■ 
only a question of time when my Improved Furnaces, Brick and Portables , would be [ 
in quite general use all over the country. 

CHIIiSON’S NEW AND SPLENDID BRICK-SET 

Cooking-Range, The Arlington. 

On this Range I am willing to rest my reputation as an inventor and manufacturer 
of strictly first-class work. Forty years of thorough, practical experience in busi¬ 
ness have enabled me to know how to make a Range that shall combine all the facili¬ 
ties that can be desired for all culinary purposes. The kitchen, in our modern-built 
houses, has become a room of the first importance in good household economy. The 
cheap, rough, and slightly made Ranges of former days, that required so much 
repairs and were such wasteful consumers of fuel, are rapidly giving place to a batter 
class of work, which will truly be found in this Range. 

CHIESON’S NEW 

Portable Cooking-Range, The Arlington, 

This is the most desirable Portable Range, in all respects, ever offered for sale, and 
the same is substantially true of the 

Arlington Cooking - Stove. 

Also, a fine assortment of PARLOR AND OTHER HEATING STOVES, in¬ 
cluding the much-admired 

CONS DISK STOVE, 

FOR THOROUGHLY AND ECONOMICALLY WARMING RAILWAY-CARS, 
STORES, FACTORIES, HALLS, &c. 

Special attention given to putting up Furnaces and Ranges, 
and the Ventilation of Buildings, in any part of the country. 

[C^ Nothing but strictly first-class work is manufactured by me. J 


WAREROOMS, 99 & 101 BLAGKSTONE ST., BOSTON. 

FOUNDRY AT MANSFIELD, MASS. 

GARDNER EMIL SON. 
















THE BEST SQUARE PIANOS IN THE WORLD. 

THE 

HENRY F. MILLER 
PIANOS. 

Used in the Public Schools of Boston, 

In the New England Conservatory of 
Music, 

(The largest Music School in the World,) 

In the Boston Music School, 

I : ' . 

And by our best Resident Musicians. 

HENRY F. HlIIiUEiR, 


BOSTON. 






THE SHORT AND SEA-SHORE ROUTE 

- \ ' 

Eastern Railroad. 


CONNECTIONS ARE MADE AT PORTLAND 

WITH ALL THE 

RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT LINES 

TO AND FROM ALL PARTS OF THE 

STATE OF MAINE AND MARITIME PROVINCES 

THIS IS THE ONLY LINE 

Running: Five Trains Daily between Boston and Portland. 

THIS IS THE ONLY LINE 

Authorized to sell through tickets to points on Knox and Lincoln 
Maine Central, and European and North American Railways. 

THIS IS THE ONLJ LINE RUNNING 

A NIGHT EXPRESS TRAIN BETWEEN BOSTON & BANGOR 

THIS IS THE ONLY LINE 

Running Pullman Parlor and Palace Sleeping Cars between Boston 

and the East. 

THIS IS THE ONLY LINE 

Between Boston, Portland, Augusta, and Bangor without chung 

of Cars. 

THE SHORTEST AND ONLY ROUTE BETWEEN 

BOSTON, NORTH CONWAY, AND WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

WITHOUT CHANGE OF CARS. 

Conductors accompany Passengers through to Bangor, also to Nortl 

Conway. 

29 Ocean Watering-Places 

on this road between Boston and Portland. 

This is decidedly the_ Sea-Shore Route, by taking which Passengers wil 
avoid the dust and heat of Summer. 

PULLMAN CARS ON ALL THROUGH TRAINS 

All Modern Improvements are in use-on this road. 

BOSTON OFFICE, 134 WASHINGTON STREET 

Before purchasing tickets refer to Maps, Advertisements, etc. of this company, to he ha 
of all principal ticket agents in the United States and Provinces, and 

SECURE THE MANY ADVANTAGES THIS LINE OFFERS 


J. PRESCOTT, 

Sup’t. 


GEO. RUSSELL, 

Gen’l Ticket Ag’t. 


GEO. F. FIELD, 

Gen’l Pass. Ag’t. 
















ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS; 


OR, 


Camp-Life in the Adirondacks. 


By REV. WILLIAM H. H. MURRAY. 

1 vol. 16mo. $ 1.50. Tourists’ Edition, containing an excellent map of the Adi¬ 
rondack Willderness, indicating all the Routes, Lakes, and notable Places 5 also Maps 
and Tables showing routes and distances to this summer resort which Mr. Murray’s 
fascinating book has brought so prominently to public notice. $ 2 . 00 . 


“ In the little book before us, Mr. Murray describes the incidents of a summer’s rambles in 
the Adirondacks, spent in fishing and hunting. He not only tells you how to ‘ rig ’ a line, 
bait a hook, manage a gun, kill, cure, and cook game, with all the zest of the professional 
sportsman, but he enters right into the heart of Nature, and pictures her in all her vary¬ 
ing phases.We know of no sportsman who writes so lovingly and so graphically 

unless it be immortal Kit North, and Mr. Murray’s trout is worthy to rank with the latter’s 
famous capture c! the salmon .”—Chicago Tribune. 

“This book is a guide to the best hunting and fishing region of America. It is more •, 
for its descriptions are charming, and the pure gold of enchantment is thrown over them, so 
that the book is bewitching to a novice in the sportsman’s art. We predict for it an im¬ 
mense sale and a multitude of enthusiastic friends.” — Providence Press. 


ON THE WING: 

A BOOK FOR SPORTSMEN. 


By JOHN BUMSTEAD. 


16mo. $ 2.50. 


FULLY ILLUSTRATED. 


“ ‘ A Book for Sportsmen.’ A more accurate description would be * a book which no 
sportsman can do without.’ Mr. Bumstead is authority upon all the topics of which he 
treats including clear instructions for the selection and use of guns, very full and valuable 
hints for the student’s guidance in different kinds of shooting, in buying gunpowder, in 
training dogs, and in fitting himself out for the woods, a very interesting description of how 
gun-barrels are made, and an appendix which is full of practical information.” — Hartford 
Courant. s 

“ All fond of sporting will find in it valuable suggestions as to selecting guns and caring 
for them, shooting woodcock, quail, grouse, snipe, rabbits, and all kinds of water-fowl, 
together with interesting details as to the manufacture of guns, gunpowder, &c.” — Rural 
New Yorker. 

u j t j s the b untry.” — Buffalo Commercial 



Advertiser. 


V For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by 
the Publishers, 


JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston, 












































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